Thanks for this incredibly helpful video. It gave me the confidence to do my first timing belt change. A few notes from my experience on doing this on a 2016 XC60: 1. There's not a lot of room to get your hands in to unbolt the tensioner and idler pulley, so you'll need a combination of small ratchets and spanners at hand. But it's all doable. 2. Setting the idley pulley to 10 o'clock means it's at it's lowest tension, which allows you to get the new belt on. You don't need to pull the tensioner tab thing (like you do when removing), as you should be able to get the belt on if it's set to 10 o'clock. 3. Put the belt over the top camshaft pulley last. It will be a tight fit, but it will go. Try your best to feed it on to the teeth, then knock it over with a mallet. It would be incredibly awkward to try and get it over the tensioner last due to the minimal clearance you've got to work with. 4. When setting the tensioner after the new belt is on, I found using a H7 screwdriver bit on some locking pliers gave me the best access. Again, it's tight in there, but it can be done if you're clever with your tools. 5. Timing cover bolt is 8mm. Swan neck spanner helps. 6. Idler pulley bolt is 10mm. Took me a while to figure out the size as it's deep in there. 7. Tensioner bolt is 12mm. 8. When tightening the crankshaft bolt to 300nm, I had to angle the crank locking tool to 9 o'clock to find some chassis to push against just behind the central wheel arch cover, as there were pipes everywhere else. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Just an observation, I use tippex to mark the belt in relation to the pulleys and then lay the old belt on top of the new belt , count the teeth and mark the new belt , so if the pulleys do move you can just use the tippex marks on the pulley to align , otherwise a great video and has made me more confident in getting an XC60.
Hi Fred. Yes I did! It was a father's day job with one of my sons before a bbq and a few beers! It was relatively easy with Simon's video to guide. A few details on my XC90 were: 1. Timing mark on the camshaft is tiny!! 2. Timing mark on the crank was more obvious than Simon's V70 3. I needed a puller to get the crank pulley off - each time, not just the first time 4. We had to hold the Allen key in place on the tensioner while torquing the bolt otherwise it moved. Overall it was a fairly straightforward job. It's my first time doing a timing belt but I don't imagine there are many cars where that job is easier. Access is good and the quality of the Volvo components excellent. Mine had done 11 years and 92k miles but the belt and pulleys were certainly not on their last knockings!
done the same job today ,quite easy,i came home and watched a few other people on here do the same job and i was amazed how many people turned tensioner clockwise to tension when there is clearly an arrow to indicate anti clock wise to tension,your video is perfect,well i hope the people have done it wrong way there belt stays on
Done my belts, tensioners and idlers today, wouldn't have attempted it myself without seing this excellent video first. Interestingly when checking the water pump there was some play in it, XC90 has done 128000 miles so was a bit shocked as the pumps have a fantastic reputation for longevity. All became apparent when I removed it, cheap pattern part, good job I had a genuine one. The belt I removed was a Gates one that was still in a serviceable condition, most likely a previous owner was advised to have the water pump changed. Properly didn't need changing at all !! FANTASTIC videos as alwas Simon, keep up the good work 😊😊😉. Many thanks, Paul😊😊
Hello Sirobb, Job done right ! I've done several timing belt changes on many different cars and I can tell you it's the easiest ever ! So well engineered ... Citroen-Peugeot and Renault engineers should definitely follow training at volvo's..! Water pump was easy too, lot of space and no engine mount on the way or to remove !! Car has 200kmiles and water pump looks like new, outside and inside with a very slight end play on the axle. Yours will last don't worry. I should have paid more attention on the tensioner sequence in your video which would have saved me 15 min struggling with the timing belt installation... "Just push the tensioner indicator arm and the belt slipped in like in butter !" Thanks and good luck to all of the others who'll do the job by themselves ! ;-)
Well done and thanks for the comment. The tensioner trick caught me out first time too but now you know, hopefully you'll remember it again in 10 years. ☺️
Agreed indeed... do you ever do private work and fit belts for people ? I'd love to have a go but not quite confident enough and buy the time you've bought a decent impact you're nearly at the cost of having a good indy do it...
Thanks for these great videos Sirobb. I have changed aux belt and tensioner, full cambelt kit, alternator pulley and oil pump gaskets all from following your guides. My 2004 V70 D5 has 192k and is now running like a Swiss watch. Great work and you've saved me a fortune in labour. 👍👍
Thanks for posting ! I'm doing mine in ten minutes and I've just watched your excellent video to get more confidence doing the job.... On my side I'm replacing the water pump, engine's just past 200k miles.
Excellent and I hope it all goes well. A little part of me wishes I'd done the water pump regardless but nearly a year on and all is still good but I don't blame you. Only replace with another genuine Volvo pump though. There's endless stories of relatively new aftermarket failures and virtually no incidences of genuine pump failure. Thanks for taking the time to comment on your big day. ☺️
You gave me the confidence to complete the replacement of my timing belt, confidence is a funny thing you can lose it very quickly, whilst test driving the vehicle, I found it run smoother and was more responsive, is this possible ? or just my imagination, Many thanks Geoff
Just done this job on a V50. Great video helped me plan the job. Unfortunately letting Ford design a Volvo meant a torque rod,engine mount and any amount of horrible plastic had to be removed. This then leaves next to no room to replace tensioners. Interestingly I found that idler pulley had started to leak grease meaning that it would eventually run dry and seize. The car is 10 years old with only 13000 miles! So even low miles cars still need this job done. Many thanks again. Regards Charles
got the same car ;) last year gave my car to garage to do the timing belt. and now feel slightly stupid cus i had a great opportunity to do this by my self and save some money. how ever thanks for videos going to watch all of them!
Really excellent video. Well explained very detailed and with good camera angels, zooms and visibility. Truly made by an expert who know what he is doing! Thanks!!
Great video Simon......My D5 has done 180k and I like looking after things myself where I can. It's due a new belt soon and I've never done this job. I'm going to have a go with the help of your video! Thanks
Thank you so much for filming this. Did a Cambelt before on my old trusty V70 from 1999 but that has a 2.5 Petrol, which is a bit different. Got a D5 last week, will do the cambelt soon. Thanks again!
Great video buddy, easy to follow step by step guide. Love the Volvo design of that side engine mount, fixed to subframe at bottom of engine, no need to remove it. Saves time and effort. Thanks, vinny. :-)
I gues I have a few tools to buy as I always struggle with breaker bars trying to do these! I only have 2 xT5's and one D5 to do cam belts on before winter! Excellent video as usual
Thank you so much. I have done a few timing belt changes before on other cars but it's about time to do it on the volvo and wanted to make sure i don't mess anything up. Really useful video.
you are some of the best, to explane and show what we have to do...thank you very much Sir. I got lots of help from your video and explenation...very detailed and understandable..
Well the main big nut came off really easily with my nice new impact wrench and, as you said, the engine didn't turn - well, only about a millimeter if at all, so thank you for that. However, when I tried to undo the four small bolts I couldn't use the impact as I don't have the 13mm socket to fit its 3/4 inch drive or a reducer to take 1/2 inch drive sockets, so I used a normal socket and a breaker bar. The crankshaft did start to spin as the crankshaft pulley was rotated - only by about half a centimeter if that before I stopped to think, and I turned it the other way to bring things back into alignment. Because I was unable to fully re-seat the timing belt behind the pulley, I realised the camshaft sprocket wasn't turning with the crankshaft pulley. I replaced the central nut and then used two breaker bars; one to undo the 4 small bolts and one to counterhold on the central nut to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I managed to get all the bolts off in this manner, but I noticed that despite my efforts to counterhold the pulley - which is difficult to do considering access etc. - the thing that the crankshaft pulley bolts onto - harmonic balance? - is slightly off from where it used to be - only by about a half a centimeter at most. The camshaft sprocket hasn't moved off TDC as the belt was loose by this time. So my question is, is it possile to just turn the crankshaft back about half a centimetre to where it was as you describe at 23:53 in your video (ridge aligning with back of tooth aligning with casting on block) thus bringing the crankshaft sprocket back into alignment with the camshaft sprocket, as they were before I loosened the belt? My thinking is that it's the belt that connects the two sprockets together, so if they are repositioned to be as they were before the slippage, everything should be back to normal? I'd appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Apologies for the late reply but we lost a beloved pet so it's been quite a stressful time. Turning the crankshaft back a little should be fine. The most important thing is that after the new belt has been fitted and tensioned, you do another manual turning of the engine before turning it on properly to ensure the timing marks remain synchronised and there is no abnormal resistance when turning. I hope the rest of the change went well for you.
@@sirobb Hello again. Thank you for the reply, and condolences on the loss of your pet. That can be very upsetting. I did think along similar lines regarding simply turning the crankshaft back by the same amount - it seems logical - and I proceeded as you sugested, rechecked that the timing marks were both still synchronised, turned the engine over twice using a breaker bar on the central nut and re-checked the timing marks again. They were still in sync, so I should be okay. I finished by fitting the pulley again with new bolts and nut and used the special holding tool and the torque wrench set at 300Nm. The only difficulty I had was that after the central nut was fitted and I removed the tool to fit the four small bolts, the engine still turned when torquing up the small bolts to 35Nm + 50 degrees. Anyone reading this and in the same predicament, I got around this by using a socket and breaker bar on the central nut - wedging the breaker bar against the wishbone - as a counterhold to allow me to torque up the small bolts. This avoids you having to remove the starter motor - which I found to be almost inaccesible on my D5 XC90 - and jamb the flywheel with a screwdriver to stop the engine from turning. So as far as the timing belt, tensioner and idler job goes, I consider it to be a success. Of course I'll only know if it is for sure once I've fitted the new auxillary belt, tensioner and idler (I'll be watching your video on that job, too) and the new A/C clutch etc. etc. and run the engine properly. But thank you for your advice, so far SiRobb. It's much appreciated by desperate DIYers such as myself and has got me out of many a sticky situation on this XC90. I wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Great informative video, thanks i watched yours and 3 others to pick up all the tips... just changed mine at 200k, last change 95k so belt did 105k and still all parts working well but new ones generally a little better... did waterpump which was a pain, most of the baked gasket stayed on the block and it's impossible to see all the mating surface to ensure none left behind... took maybe 3 hours just for that... had to take phone pics to see how the unseen was coming and work by feel.... painful and a couple of nails mashed where i tried lifting it that way... after that, maybe 2 1/2 hrs putting it all back leisurely, new pulley and tensioner too... so good for another 105K ! if you get the tensioner right and then make sure the belt is snug on the crank teeth (i locked crank with torque wrench) and get the tension right up to the cam, then it falls into place quite easily... thanks again, yours was one of the best, the impact gun advice ideal.... i couldn't move the crank nut with a 3/4 bar with extension and then a long pole which dutifully bent... so that wasn't going to work... bought a cheap gun that claimed 520nm and that couldn't do it.... neighbour had 1000nm De Walt gun and that did it like it was nothing... shows good tools matter invest in the best for critical work...
Hello SiRobb. thank you sooooo much for this very helpful video, everything is perfect and my Volvo runs perfect with the new timing belt. All the best for you from Germany... Erich
good vedeo mate we can see you are a really profissional mechanic you not use glovers you are from old school on this vedeo we can see how change the timing belt all most all cars. cheers from norway
Very well done. Thank you. May I suggest using a laser pointer or a long screwdriver to indicate distant items, rather than trying to get your arm down there.
Great job buddy. Having just the one camshaft am I right in thinking the engine has two valves per cylinder, did this job on a 2006 Saab 9-5 1.9 diesel, twin cam 4 valves per cylinder, noticed also, on Saab like most front wheel drive cars engine mount has to be removed, engine supported. On Volvo engine mount on bottom and clear to carry out this job, engine supported too. My brother who owns the Saab 9-5 as a private hire taxi is thinking of getting a volvo v50 for his next car, he loves the saab but things like simpler access to servicing make the choice of volvo probs his next choice. Dont even mention front headlamp bulb replacement, can do it without removing bumper but still a faff, Volvo just pop headlight forward giving full and easy access to replace any of the bulbs. Great video, thanks, vinny. :-)
Thanks for the comment Vinny. It is still a double overhead camshaft engine with 4 valves per cylinder but you just have one externally visible camshaft pulley which directly drives the intake camshaft. Underneath the rocker cover, you would see how the 2 camshafts are then synchronised using interlocking cogs.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply sirobb explaining that to me, sounds like a similar set up to rover V6 petrol, but instead of belts connecting other cam via gearbox side connection it's done via a gear drive inside the cylinder head. Thanks for the video, subscribed to your channel, you know what your doing, looking forward to gaining more knowledge through your very straight forward layman's terms videos. :-) thanks, Vinny.
Great video. Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You can change the water pump without changing anything else but the process is still the same when setting up the timing marks and removing the belt to access the pump.
Great well explained video thanks, 🙂 just bought a 2013 XC60 D5 and will use this as my guide thank u ! I take it my engine will be the same as this will it ?
You will have a much later D5 version with different access and parts but the general principle of the change is similar. Definitely do your homework and don't rely on just this video.
Great video. I don't know if this is an urban myth but I've heard the reason so many Volvo engines get trashed due to the timing belt snapping is Volvo moved the recommended mileage /years for changing it upwards by about 40% after some class action lawsuit in California (where else ! ) resulted in them being liable for them snapping below a certain mileage so they would have have had to pay for all those new engines that got trashed. Weirdly the plaintiffs successfully linked it to an environmental issue . Maybe they claimed that having to replace an engine with a new one is harmful to the environment a bit like the argument that replacing a high emissions old car with a brand new low emission new car is bad for the environment because of the energy used to create the new car plus the workers driving to the car plants plus transporting the new cars all around the world etc.
a help would be to put "tipex" markers on the old belt too and an arrow outwards .. take the old belt on top of the new and transfer the "tipex" to the new belt AND the arrow .. fx. also count teeth on the old and new belt as a check .. then by mounting the new belt, you have the markings at the wheels and the markings on the belt to be sure on right mount ...
I'm a competent home spanner monkey but I own mostly classic Renault Turbo stuff. The tips about the crank alignment, and belt tensioner were specific to a car I'm unfamiliar with :-). I did the water pump while I was there....amazed at the condition of the 187k pump and the 90k cambelt!
+David Sibley Yes Volvo spec their belts and pulleys very highly on this engine so the condition of your old parts doesn't surprise me. I'd always stick with genuine parts in this area.
Hi simon ive just bought a v50 D3 and i know it can suffer from the old aux belt getting tangled up in the cam belt,do you think theres is any way of modifying the crank pulley to stop the aux belt entering the cam belt incase of failure this problem gives me sleepless nights.
If all the timing and aux belts and pulleys are strictly maintained within the recommended schedule, I'm not aware of any premature failures. I certainly have no concerns over my belts and pulleys.
Excellent video and top quality too. Unfortunately i don't still own a volvo, but one happy day i acquire one this is surelly gonna come in handy. Can the crankshaft be locked somehow ? Is there some kind of a hole in the flywheel so it can be locked with a pin ? I assume this being a 2.4L engine with its glowplugs in place the Crankshaft should stay in place and not move so easily, but i'm always paranoid when doing jobs like these and just like to lock the crankshaft and camshaft somehow. Anyway once again great video.
Hi thanks for taking the time to comment. Even with the belt off, the crank and camshaft are both difficult to move by accident so if you're careful, it's really not a problem. Cam and crank locking pins are available if you're still not confident.
+SiRobb Thanks for the swift reply. Well then I've got the knowledge now, its only a matter of acquiring a volvo S60 :). Just subscribed to Your channel too. Looking forward to checking out other videos.
Excellent video, very well explained, very detailed. Mine is due this summer, so I will do the job myself if I can get my hands on a crank pulley locking tool! Anyone know where to get / hire one?
I have been told there is a removable cover at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley which means that the pulley does not need to be removed? Have you come across this? Really helpful video btw. Regards Charles
Charles Dale Yes, there's a curved lower cover held on with 2 x 10mm bolts which some remove and squeeze the new belt through the gap having cut off the old belt first. It isn't a method I would use or recommend in fact I would strongly advise against it so it's up to you.
What are the risks with this method since it would help not having to buy another torque wrench for 300Nm and the strong impact gun 650Nm, and not needing to buy the crank pulley locking tool.
Just done this method without removing the pulley as I am too tight to buy an impact wrench and in general I would agree that it isn't advisable as it is a very tight squeeze and you have to bend the belt one way to get past the pulley seat casting behind the pulley and then the other way to get past the base of the plastic cover assembly. So there is a potential that you could damage the belt but it is fairly robust and if you are careful can be done ok. Now I have done it once I would be ok to do it again, but got a bit worried for a moment that I wouldn't be able to get it back on once I cut the old one off. Anyway thanks SiRobb for giving me the confidence to try.
Great vid but do you not need to lock the crank and cam on these to ensure they do not move when the old belt is removed or the new belt is fitted? Or did I miss it?!
You didn't miss it because I didn't do it. Unless you're VERY ham fisted, crank and cam locking isn't required for a belt and pulley change. If you're renewing the front crank and cam seals though and need to remove those pulleys, yes you would be best to use locking tools.
SiRobb, thank u for this fantastic tutorial video! Everything is explained very clearly. I have a 2006 S60 2.5T and I've managed to put everything together per direction. I started up the engine and noticed that it idles rough. This leads me to believe that during the belt installation, I inadvertently moved either the Exhaust and/or Intake camshaft pulley at the top. If this indeed happened, what is the best course of action? This would mean that I have to remove the belt and set the crankshaft pulley and the exhaust and intake camshaft pulley up top MANUALLY? Any advice would be great! Thanks again!
The first thing you need to do is turn the engine manually to see if all crank and cam marks line up. If they are out of line, there's your problem. When you do a belt change, you must turn the engine manually to check these marks line up BEFORE starting the engine.👍
Thanks SiRobb for response! I did NOT turn the engine manually before I started the engine, that was a careless error on my part! If I redo the belt again, obviously, I would have to manually turn each of the two top camshaft pulleys and also the crankshaft pulley to realigned. Is this the only course of action, you think? Thank you!
+Ky Cam Unfortunately, I'm not going to say what you should do now as I don't have much experience with your engine and your car isn't in front of me so that is your choice. If you are unsure, don't start the engine and seek professional advice. Good luck. 👍
Thanks for the video , but unfortunately my water pump broke and after replacement of the pump and the timing belt .... I discovered that there are also problems with something in the cylinder head ... Do you have a link for a video explaining the way to remove the cylinder head ? thanks in advance for your help .
I don't know of a video for that unfortunately. I would recommend using Vida as it will show the full procedure including any special tools required for crankshaft and camshaft locking for example.
@@sirobb Thanks for your answer and advise . I am not so sure about the best way to get VIDA . It seems there are free downloads . Do you think it is better to purchase it and where ?
That's ok, I try to answer where I can. I sell brand new, tested and guaranteed working Dice which come with Vida 2014d and full installation instructions for £100 delivered in the UK. There are cheaper options from other sellers but the Dice often aren't tested or known to work correctly. Their Vida instructions are often useless too so it comes down to how certain you want to be when having Dice and Vida.
Hi +SiRobb You don't really show you putting the belt on in this video. I just did mine on my P3 V70 this weekend and couldn't believe how difficult it was to get the belt over all the pulleys and tensioner. It was a lot tighter than I imagined! Was this the same for you? (In the end I put it over the pulley, tensioner and water pump then squeezed it over the idler!)
I don't show the final belt installation because it was impossible to film alone but as it is, the routing is straightforward filming isn't really necessary. The belt is supposed to be a very close fit and you finish on the tensioner pulley. The reason you finish on the tensioner is because it has an adjusting mechanism which allows the belt to be installed easily. Explained in the video at 20m00sec.
Cheers Rob! I got it on none the less and it's been working for a couple of hundred miles now luckily! Fingers crossed all is therfore okay. Next time I'll try finish on the tensioner!
Very comprehensive video. I'm going to use this to tackle this job on the families xc70. Just one question, where can I get the tool you used in the end to lock the 4 pulley-bolts?
I got mine from a main dealer FRF Swansea. It takes a few working days to arrive though as it's a special order from Sweden so allow for that. Cost was £30 but you can obviously resell it to recoup your money. The part number escapes me but it's clearly shown in my D5 Cambelt buying guide video.
There are enough 300000 mile water pumps to give me confidence to leave it alone. Also, Volvo don't supply a timing kit that includes the pump. If failure was common, they would recommend change and sell you another pump, like they do with the various pulleys. I've heard of water pump failures on many other manufacturers' engines but NEVER on a D5 so I'm assuming your experience is different.
Good to know. I've never had a water pump fail but then I've always changed them with the belt if required. I suppose if you had any doubt about the service history and were unsure of how well the cooling system had been maintained it might change your thinking, but if they're that good then if it ain't broke leave it alone.
+Badgertronix Of course yes, there are many service factors which may influence your decision which is why I say to weigh it up for yourself once you're in there. I only use Volvo Coolant and if your D5 is well maintained, with no prior issues in that area, the pump should easily last to the third belt change. If you do change it, use another genuine pump otherwise you'll be fitting something that's worse quality than the original.
Hi SirRob, after setting the camshaft and crankshaft timing before removing the old belt, how to lock the pulleys to keep the timing in place whilst fiddling everything? I have done duratec engine which we will lock the crankshaft with pin and a flat bar on the camshaft. How about this D5? Cheers.
Hi have you any idea the change interval for the 2007 v70 D5 SE auto new shape . I'm thinking on buying the car its showing 141k mileage and I'm curious how often these belts need changing . Thanks in advance for any info
108k miles or 10 years so it should have had at least one belt and pulley change. It may also have the redesigned auxiliary tensioner which was problematic and required changing every 54k miles. Best to clarify with a main dealer.
@@sirobb thanks Si think I will just put it in for a belt and tensioner water pump etc so it's done for peace of mind . I've got the choice of 2 cars older 05 xc 70 D5 se estate or the 07 v70 D5 se estate both 140k and auto . Currently got an 02 v70 D5 manual just turned 200000k getting a bit tired in her old age timeto replace her .
@@MrFrankGallagher Just bear in mind that if the water pump is original, they're good for 300k+ miles. If you do change it, only change it for another genuine Volvo pump.
Do you not get new bolts in the Volvo kit for the Tensioner and idler? Never seen that before. Most Dealer kits and OEM equivalent kits have bolts I found. Remember most belts are made by others even if it says Volvo. Same as Engine oil. Asda does not make their own oil. They used to get it from Castrol. That may of changed though. The Volvo warranty might be good but if you fit it yourself the warranty might not matter at all. Check there terms and conditions about warranty. They might want a garage to do it that is VAT registered.
Hi there sirobb my Volvo S60 d5 2007 has just started loseing coolant. heads fine no milky oil cap but wet patch is we’re water pump is . How much would a water pump and timming belt cost to fix thanks great video
Hi Simon, just a quick question to pick your brains if you don't mind please. Same engine as yours - I'm in the middle of changing the timing and aux belts. I've removed the aux tensioner pulley assembly and am fitting the new one. I can get it bolted in no problem and it seems to be seated correctly but when placing it before putting in the bolts it doesn't seem to be fitting snugly into any sort of crevice. Does it be loose right up until the two 10mm bolts are all the way?
There are two different types of tensioner unit for the D5244T depending on chassis number and they're not interchangeable so be certain of compatibility first. See my auxiliary belt video here @ 12:35 th-cam.com/video/DLyiYnUkQuE/w-d-xo.html
soo say if an air gun and breaker bar WITH a counter hold tool from CTA and the nut is still stuck and won't even move at all. what should a guy do? my crank seal is leaking more an more. Can it be cut off? or chiseled off? not ideal but if I can't get it loose before the seal goes out then I am screwed either way.. It has me feeling like I am loosing my mind I have tried so much with no success 😮💨
Fantastic video! Thank you for uploading this. Did you needed to remove spark plugs in order for you to turn the crank shaft for timing mark alignment? Also do you disconnect battery? (in dash radio loses codes...)
Thank you. No spark plug removal because a D5 is diesel and no battery disconnection because the radio doesn't have a code. This is the specific procedure for the D5 so if you're changing the timing belt on anything else, you can't use all the info in this video. I'm glad you enjoyed it though.
Thank you for your light-speed reply! oh yeah that's right. you gotta diesel eng. Does it still turn with compression? (assuming D5 uses glow plug). I have B5254T engine and your video was super helpful!
+K Shinohara No problem. Yes the engine turned fine without any glow plug or injector removal but you could obviously feel some resistance from the compression which is normal.
Very helpful video. I am about to do the same within few months (S60, D5, MY2007). Only question I have with all this. If I want to also change waterpump do I have to lift / lower the engine for that? Or it should slide out without moving engine. If anybody knows that it would be nice to know.
No, you can use diagnostics to view the coolant temperature and see the performance of the thermostat. D5 thermostats normally last a *very* long time.
@@sirobb just like waterpumps, I called up 3 volvo dealerships 5 times and they told me volvo does not specifyy when to change it and they never had one fail. They last 200k happily and that blew my mind.
@@robertasviskupaitis9195 Yes that's right and most last much more than that. 300k miles is not unusual and you know that if a main dealer could sell them to make more money, they would recommend it every time. You obviously check the water pump like I show in the video but mine won't be changed until the 3rd timing belt change.
8 years later and I still watch your videos for help on my 322k v70 d5!
me too :)
me too xc90 400k eur3 . SirRob the man!
What a geezer. Your videos are still helping people 5 years later. If you happen to do any work on the xc70 2.5T then please do a video.
Thanks for this incredibly helpful video. It gave me the confidence to do my first timing belt change.
A few notes from my experience on doing this on a 2016 XC60:
1. There's not a lot of room to get your hands in to unbolt the tensioner and idler pulley, so you'll need a combination of small ratchets and spanners at hand. But it's all doable.
2. Setting the idley pulley to 10 o'clock means it's at it's lowest tension, which allows you to get the new belt on. You don't need to pull the tensioner tab thing (like you do when removing), as you should be able to get the belt on if it's set to 10 o'clock.
3. Put the belt over the top camshaft pulley last. It will be a tight fit, but it will go. Try your best to feed it on to the teeth, then knock it over with a mallet. It would be incredibly awkward to try and get it over the tensioner last due to the minimal clearance you've got to work with.
4. When setting the tensioner after the new belt is on, I found using a H7 screwdriver bit on some locking pliers gave me the best access. Again, it's tight in there, but it can be done if you're clever with your tools.
5. Timing cover bolt is 8mm. Swan neck spanner helps.
6. Idler pulley bolt is 10mm. Took me a while to figure out the size as it's deep in there.
7. Tensioner bolt is 12mm.
8. When tightening the crankshaft bolt to 300nm, I had to angle the crank locking tool to 9 o'clock to find some chassis to push against just behind the central wheel arch cover, as there were pipes everywhere else.
Thanks again for the great tutorial.
thanks for all that very important info m8
Just an observation, I use tippex to mark the belt in relation to the pulleys and then lay the old belt on top of the new belt , count the teeth and mark the new belt , so if the pulleys do move you can just use the tippex marks on the pulley to align , otherwise a great video and has made me more confident in getting an XC60.
Hi Fred. Yes I did! It was a father's day job with one of my sons before a bbq and a few beers! It was relatively easy with Simon's video to guide. A few details on my XC90 were:
1. Timing mark on the camshaft is tiny!!
2. Timing mark on the crank was more obvious than Simon's V70
3. I needed a puller to get the crank pulley off - each time, not just the first time
4. We had to hold the Allen key in place on the tensioner while torquing the bolt otherwise it moved.
Overall it was a fairly straightforward job. It's my first time doing a timing belt but I don't imagine there are many cars where that job is easier. Access is good and the quality of the Volvo components excellent. Mine had done 11 years and 92k miles but the belt and pulleys were certainly not on their last knockings!
This video is awesome! Saved me writing off my car when the mechanic incorrectly said my auxiliary belt knocked out the timing. Thank you!
Thank you. Its people like you who make the web such an amazing place.
done the same job today ,quite easy,i came home and watched a few other people on here do the same job and i was amazed how many people turned tensioner clockwise to tension when there is clearly an arrow to indicate anti clock wise to tension,your video is perfect,well i hope the people have done it wrong way there belt stays on
That's literally the best DIY video I've seen on the internet..
Thank you for sharing!
Done my belts, tensioners and idlers today, wouldn't have attempted it myself without seing this excellent video first. Interestingly when checking the water pump there was some play in it, XC90 has done 128000 miles so was a bit shocked as the pumps have a fantastic reputation for longevity. All became apparent when I removed it, cheap pattern part, good job I had a genuine one. The belt I removed was a Gates one that was still in a serviceable condition, most likely a previous owner was advised to have the water pump changed. Properly didn't need changing at all !!
FANTASTIC videos as alwas Simon, keep up the good work 😊😊😉.
Many thanks, Paul😊😊
Hello Sirobb,
Job done right ! I've done several timing belt changes on many different cars and I can tell you it's the easiest ever ! So well engineered ... Citroen-Peugeot and Renault engineers should definitely follow training at volvo's..! Water pump was easy too, lot of space and no engine mount on the way or to remove !! Car has 200kmiles and water pump looks like new, outside and inside with a very slight end play on the axle. Yours will last don't worry. I should have paid more attention on the tensioner sequence in your video which would have saved me 15 min struggling with the timing belt installation... "Just push the tensioner indicator arm and the belt slipped in like in butter !" Thanks and good luck to all of the others who'll do the job by themselves ! ;-)
Well done and thanks for the comment.
The tensioner trick caught me out first time too but now you know, hopefully you'll remember it again in 10 years. ☺️
Great video, brilliantly explained with lots of top quality tips, fantastic camera angles, a pleasure to watch!
These videos are brilliant. I think the best done and most useful I've seen.
That's always good to hear.
Thank you for taking the time to say so.
SiRobb я
Agreed indeed... do you ever do private work and fit belts for people ? I'd love to have a go but not quite confident enough and buy the time you've bought a decent impact you're nearly at the cost of having a good indy do it...
Thanks for these great videos Sirobb. I have changed aux belt and tensioner, full cambelt kit, alternator pulley and oil pump gaskets all from following your guides. My 2004 V70 D5 has 192k and is now running like a Swiss watch. Great work and you've saved me a fortune in labour. 👍👍
Thanks for posting ! I'm doing mine in ten minutes and I've just watched your excellent video to get more confidence doing the job.... On my side I'm replacing the water pump, engine's just past 200k miles.
Excellent and I hope it all goes well.
A little part of me wishes I'd done the water pump regardless but nearly a year on and all is still good but I don't blame you.
Only replace with another genuine Volvo pump though.
There's endless stories of relatively new aftermarket failures and virtually no incidences of genuine pump failure.
Thanks for taking the time to comment on your big day. ☺️
SiRobb ql
qi
You gave me the confidence to complete the replacement of my timing belt, confidence is a funny thing you can lose it very quickly, whilst test driving the vehicle, I found it run smoother and was more responsive, is this possible ? or just my imagination, Many thanks Geoff
It's very possible. My S60 D5 felt more "compat" and less loose if that makes sense 😅
Completely possible its because the timing belt stretches
Just done this job on a V50. Great video helped me plan the job. Unfortunately letting Ford design a Volvo meant a torque rod,engine mount and any amount of horrible plastic had to be removed. This then leaves next to no room to replace tensioners. Interestingly I found that idler pulley had started to leak grease meaning that it would eventually run dry and seize. The car is 10 years old with only 13000 miles! So even low miles cars still need this job done. Many thanks again. Regards Charles
Its one of the best videos for the XC90 Timing Belt replacement that i have ever seen! Thumbs up!!!!
Thanks for taking the time to go through all of this belt replacement . Yes another brilliant video .
got the same car ;) last year gave my car to garage to do the timing belt. and now feel slightly stupid cus i had a great opportunity to do this by my self and save some money. how ever thanks for videos going to watch all of them!
Really excellent video. Well explained very detailed and with good camera angels, zooms and visibility. Truly made by an expert who know what he is doing! Thanks!!
Many thanks for your support Martin.
Great video Simon......My D5 has done 180k and I like looking after things myself where I can. It's due a new belt soon and I've never done this job. I'm going to have a go with the help of your video! Thanks
just wondering did you manage to put on a new belt okay ?
Thanks, SiRobb! That was a detailed and well-delivered tutorial. Good Job!!
You Have a unique talent for teaching Sir. Outstanding explanation, Thank you!
Excellent. Best instruction video I have seen very clear pictures and clear instruction.
Brilliant video, narrated in layman language. Thanks for taking the time to record and upload it.
Please accept my belated thank you. 👍
You've made that job look not particularly unpleasant and I reckon its a job I can take on when I get my D5. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this, I just bought an XC90, and to my luck it was already past the the interval. Now I was fortunate enough to do it myself!
Best video I've found on this. Thanks for taking the time to explain every detail. Cheers!
Thank you so much for filming this. Did a Cambelt before on my old trusty V70 from 1999 but that has a 2.5 Petrol, which is a bit different. Got a D5 last week, will do the cambelt soon. Thanks again!
Great video buddy, easy to follow step by step guide. Love the Volvo design of that side engine mount, fixed to subframe at bottom of engine, no need to remove it. Saves time and effort. Thanks, vinny. :-)
I gues I have a few tools to buy as I always struggle with breaker bars trying to do these! I only have 2 xT5's and one D5 to do cam belts on before winter! Excellent video as usual
best engine ever. mine have 290kkm and still works nice. time to change belt second time since been new :) thx for video!
Mine have 585kkm and still work like a watch👌
Thank you so much. I have done a few timing belt changes before on other cars but it's about time to do it on the volvo and wanted to make sure i don't mess anything up. Really useful video.
you are some of the best, to explane and show what we have to do...thank you very much Sir. I got lots of help from your video and explenation...very detailed and understandable..
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Well the main big nut came off really easily with my nice new impact wrench and, as you said, the engine didn't turn - well, only about a millimeter if at all, so thank you for that. However, when I tried to undo the four small bolts I couldn't use the impact as I don't have the 13mm socket to fit its 3/4 inch drive or a reducer to take 1/2 inch drive sockets, so I used a normal socket and a breaker bar. The crankshaft did start to spin as the crankshaft pulley was rotated - only by about half a centimeter if that before I stopped to think, and I turned it the other way to bring things back into alignment. Because I was unable to fully re-seat the timing belt behind the pulley, I realised the camshaft sprocket wasn't turning with the crankshaft pulley. I replaced the central nut and then used two breaker bars; one to undo the 4 small bolts and one to counterhold on the central nut to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I managed to get all the bolts off in this manner, but I noticed that despite my efforts to counterhold the pulley - which is difficult to do considering access etc. - the thing that the crankshaft pulley bolts onto - harmonic balance? - is slightly off from where it used to be - only by about a half a centimeter at most. The camshaft sprocket hasn't moved off TDC as the belt was loose by this time. So my question is, is it possile to just turn the crankshaft back about half a centimetre to where it was as you describe at 23:53 in your video (ridge aligning with back of tooth aligning with casting on block) thus bringing the crankshaft sprocket back into alignment with the camshaft sprocket, as they were before I loosened the belt? My thinking is that it's the belt that connects the two sprockets together, so if they are repositioned to be as they were before the slippage, everything should be back to normal? I'd appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Apologies for the late reply but we lost a beloved pet so it's been quite a stressful time.
Turning the crankshaft back a little should be fine.
The most important thing is that after the new belt has been fitted and tensioned, you do another manual turning of the engine before turning it on properly to ensure the timing marks remain synchronised and there is no abnormal resistance when turning.
I hope the rest of the change went well for you.
@@sirobb Hello again. Thank you for the reply, and condolences on the loss of your pet. That can be very upsetting.
I did think along similar lines regarding simply turning the crankshaft back by the same amount - it seems logical - and I proceeded as you sugested, rechecked that the timing marks were both still synchronised, turned the engine over twice using a breaker bar on the central nut and re-checked the timing marks again. They were still in sync, so I should be okay. I finished by fitting the pulley again with new bolts and nut and used the special holding tool and the torque wrench set at 300Nm. The only difficulty I had was that after the central nut was fitted and I removed the tool to fit the four small bolts, the engine still turned when torquing up the small bolts to 35Nm + 50 degrees. Anyone reading this and in the same predicament, I got around this by using a socket and breaker bar on the central nut - wedging the breaker bar against the wishbone - as a counterhold to allow me to torque up the small bolts. This avoids you having to remove the starter motor - which I found to be almost inaccesible on my D5 XC90 - and jamb the flywheel with a screwdriver to stop the engine from turning. So as far as the timing belt, tensioner and idler job goes, I consider it to be a success. Of course I'll only know if it is for sure once I've fitted the new auxillary belt, tensioner and idler (I'll be watching your video on that job, too) and the new A/C clutch etc. etc. and run the engine properly. But thank you for your advice, so far SiRobb. It's much appreciated by desperate DIYers such as myself and has got me out of many a sticky situation on this XC90.
I wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
A Merry Christmas to you too Aidan and thank you for the gift. It was very much appreciated. 👍🏾
Thanks for taking time to explain how to adjust the tensioner. Great Vid!
Great informative video, thanks i watched yours and 3 others to pick up all the tips... just changed mine at 200k, last change 95k so belt did 105k and still all parts working well but new ones generally a little better... did waterpump which was a pain, most of the baked gasket stayed on the block and it's impossible to see all the mating surface to ensure none left behind... took maybe 3 hours just for that... had to take phone pics to see how the unseen was coming and work by feel.... painful and a couple of nails mashed where i tried lifting it that way... after that, maybe 2 1/2 hrs putting it all back leisurely, new pulley and tensioner too... so good for another 105K ! if you get the tensioner right and then make sure the belt is snug on the crank teeth (i locked crank with torque wrench) and get the tension right up to the cam, then it falls into place quite easily... thanks again, yours was one of the best, the impact gun advice ideal.... i couldn't move the crank nut with a 3/4 bar with extension and then a long pole which dutifully bent... so that wasn't going to work... bought a cheap gun that claimed 520nm and that couldn't do it.... neighbour had 1000nm De Walt gun and that did it like it was nothing... shows good tools matter invest in the best for critical work...
Hello SiRobb.
thank you sooooo much for this very helpful video, everything is perfect and my Volvo runs perfect with the new timing belt.
All the best for you from Germany...
Erich
Awesome video, thanks for going to the effort of filming it and sharing your knowledge
good vedeo mate we can see you are a really profissional mechanic you not use glovers you are from old school on this vedeo we can see how change the timing belt all most all cars. cheers from norway
Great video! This made me confident I can manage a change of the timingbelt for my D5 =) Greetings from Sweden!
Tjena Andreas, hur gick det eller har du inte gjort jobbet?
great video SiRobb iv learnt a lot from all your videos mate thanks
Thanks very much for your exzellent and helpful video.
Best wishes from Germany,
Erich
Really great video! Your video just helped me fixing my volvo penta boat engine!
detailed video to the fullest☝️ I will do mine soon 😁 thx SiRobb!
Brilliant demonstrate on doing this I definitely feel confident on doing soon including water pump thanks mate 👌
Very well done. Thank you. May I suggest using a laser pointer or a long screwdriver to indicate distant items, rather than trying to get your arm down there.
Sure. You can suggest whatever you want. 😊
Good video thank. Well explained. Now I can take my v70. Have a good day.
Great job buddy. Having just the one camshaft am I right in thinking the engine has two valves per cylinder, did this job on a 2006 Saab 9-5 1.9 diesel, twin cam 4 valves per cylinder, noticed also, on Saab like most front wheel drive cars engine mount has to be removed, engine supported. On Volvo engine mount on bottom and clear to carry out this job, engine supported too. My brother who owns the Saab 9-5 as a private hire taxi is thinking of getting a volvo v50 for his next car, he loves the saab but things like simpler access to servicing make the choice of volvo probs his next choice. Dont even mention front headlamp bulb replacement, can do it without removing bumper but still a faff, Volvo just pop headlight forward giving full and easy access to replace any of the bulbs. Great video, thanks, vinny. :-)
Thanks for the comment Vinny.
It is still a double overhead camshaft engine with 4 valves per cylinder but you just have one externally visible camshaft pulley which directly drives the intake camshaft.
Underneath the rocker cover, you would see how the 2 camshafts are then synchronised using interlocking cogs.
@@sirobb thanks for your reply sirobb explaining that to me, sounds like a similar set up to rover V6 petrol, but instead of belts connecting other cam via gearbox side connection it's done via a gear drive inside the cylinder head. Thanks for the video, subscribed to your channel, you know what your doing, looking forward to gaining more knowledge through your very straight forward layman's terms videos. :-) thanks, Vinny.
As usual, excellent tutorial from SiRobb
Great work and illustration
Thanks so much. I've the same diesel d5244t volvo xc70 ...the video was very useful for me..
Great video. Is it possible to change only the water pump? My timing belt and tensioner are brand new, so I do I need to follow the whole procedure? Please let me know thanks
You can change the water pump without changing anything else but the process is still the same when setting up the timing marks and removing the belt to access the pump.
@@sirobb thanks for responding I will do .have good evening. Thanks again
Dankeschön, wirklich gut erklärt. Grüße aus Deutschland.
Great video !! when do you record doing the timing belt then?
Sorry, I don't understand your question.
Great well explained video thanks, 🙂 just bought a 2013 XC60 D5 and will use this as my guide thank u !
I take it my engine will be the same as this will it ?
You will have a much later D5 version with different access and parts but the general principle of the change is similar.
Definitely do your homework and don't rely on just this video.
Well done mate. Good effort and video
That's one of the reasons why I just buy Toyota, timing chain and saving money 😊
Great video this allowed me to chance my belt thanks
A basted job , but not as bad as on a French car . Great well made vidio, much appreciated.
Top man. Thanks for the detailed explanation
Top quality Si brilliant stuff!
Great video! Blessings from Sweden!!
Great video; any idea what an independent garage would charge all in for this?
Never paid for it but replacing exactly what's shown in the video would be around £500 including parts and labour.
Thanks@@sirobb
Good to see your work !
Great video. I don't know if this is an urban myth but I've heard the reason so many Volvo engines get trashed due to the timing belt snapping is Volvo moved the recommended mileage /years for changing it upwards by about 40% after some class action lawsuit in California (where else ! ) resulted in them being liable for them snapping below a certain mileage so they would have have had to pay for all those new engines that got trashed. Weirdly the plaintiffs successfully linked it to an environmental issue . Maybe they claimed that having to replace an engine with a new one is harmful to the environment a bit like the argument that replacing a high emissions old car with a brand new low emission new car is bad for the environment because of the energy used to create the new car plus the workers driving to the car plants plus transporting the new cars all around the world etc.
It's an urban myth.
If the belts are maintained within the recommended schedule, there's no problem.
a help would be to put "tipex" markers on the old belt too and an arrow outwards .. take the old belt on top of the new and transfer the "tipex" to the new belt AND the arrow .. fx. also count teeth on the old and new belt as a check .. then by mounting the new belt, you have the markings at the wheels and the markings on the belt to be sure on right mount ...
I've not needed to do any of the above but if it works for you and gets the job done correctly, that's great.
Excellent Video, but what wrench did you use to get the 300nm crank pulley bolt off ?
I used the heavy duty impact wrench shown at the start.
There are other videos showing it too.
Some good tips here, helped me out loads thanks man.
No problem and well done for doing it yourself. 👍
I'm a competent home spanner monkey but I own mostly classic Renault Turbo stuff. The tips about the crank alignment, and belt tensioner were specific to a car I'm unfamiliar with :-). I did the water pump while I was there....amazed at the condition of the 187k pump and the 90k cambelt!
+David Sibley Yes Volvo spec their belts and pulleys very highly on this engine so the condition of your old parts doesn't surprise me.
I'd always stick with genuine parts in this area.
Excellent video. Many thanks
Good video. But shouldn't the crank locking tool have used during the belt change? And how did you lock the camshaft from turning?
You don't need to lock either.
They're not going to move on their own so just make sure you don't move them either.
@@sirobb cheers. Just wondered. It's not a difficult one to do after watching this vid.
It's still a DOHC engine but they're synchronised by the one pulley so yes it's probably the easiest timing belt change out there.
Hi simon ive just bought a v50 D3 and i know it can suffer from the old aux belt getting tangled up in the cam belt,do you think theres is any way of modifying the crank pulley to stop the aux belt entering the cam belt incase of failure this problem gives me sleepless nights.
If all the timing and aux belts and pulleys are strictly maintained within the recommended schedule, I'm not aware of any premature failures.
I certainly have no concerns over my belts and pulleys.
Excellent video and top quality too. Unfortunately i don't still own a volvo, but one happy day i acquire one this is surelly gonna come in handy. Can the crankshaft be locked somehow ? Is there some kind of a hole in the flywheel so it can be locked with a pin ? I assume this being a 2.4L engine with its glowplugs in place the Crankshaft should stay in place and not move so easily, but i'm always paranoid when doing jobs like these and just like to lock the crankshaft and camshaft somehow. Anyway once again great video.
Hi thanks for taking the time to comment.
Even with the belt off, the crank and camshaft are both difficult to move by accident so if you're careful, it's really not a problem.
Cam and crank locking pins are available if you're still not confident.
+SiRobb Thanks for the swift reply. Well then I've got the knowledge now, its only a matter of acquiring a volvo S60 :). Just subscribed to Your channel too. Looking forward to checking out other videos.
Need to do this on my LT35 SDI van (same engine) so many thanks for posting...
Thanks for the comment.
It's not the same engine but it should give you some general pointers which are applicable to most timing belt changes.
Excellent video, very well explained, very detailed.
Mine is due this summer, so I will do the job myself if I can get my hands on a crank pulley locking tool! Anyone know where to get / hire one?
Thank you.
There's a link in the DIY section of my Amazon Store Front www.amazon.co.uk/shop/sirobb
I have been told there is a removable cover at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley which means that the pulley does not need to be removed? Have you come across this? Really helpful video btw. Regards Charles
Charles Dale Yes, there's a curved lower cover held on with 2 x 10mm bolts which some remove and squeeze the new belt through the gap having cut off the old belt first.
It isn't a method I would use or recommend in fact I would strongly advise against it so it's up to you.
What are the risks with this method since it would help not having to buy another torque wrench for 300Nm and the strong impact gun 650Nm, and not needing to buy the crank pulley locking tool.
Just done this method without removing the pulley as I am too tight to buy an impact wrench and in general I would agree that it isn't advisable as it is a very tight squeeze and you have to bend the belt one way to get past the pulley seat casting behind the pulley and then the other way to get past the base of the plastic cover assembly. So there is a potential that you could damage the belt but it is fairly robust and if you are careful can be done ok. Now I have done it once I would be ok to do it again, but got a bit worried for a moment that I wouldn't be able to get it back on once I cut the old one off. Anyway thanks SiRobb for giving me the confidence to try.
Great vid but do you not need to lock the crank and cam on these to ensure they do not move when the old belt is removed or the new belt is fitted? Or did I miss it?!
You didn't miss it because I didn't do it.
Unless you're VERY ham fisted, crank and cam locking isn't required for a belt and pulley change.
If you're renewing the front crank and cam seals though and need to remove those pulleys, yes you would be best to use locking tools.
SiRobb, thank u for this fantastic tutorial video! Everything is explained very clearly. I have a 2006 S60 2.5T and I've managed to put everything together per direction. I started up the engine and noticed that it idles rough. This leads me to believe that during the belt installation, I inadvertently moved either the Exhaust and/or Intake camshaft pulley at the top. If this indeed happened, what is the best course of action? This would mean that I have to remove the belt and set the crankshaft pulley and the exhaust and intake camshaft pulley up top MANUALLY? Any advice would be great! Thanks again!
The first thing you need to do is turn the engine manually to see if all crank and cam marks line up.
If they are out of line, there's your problem.
When you do a belt change, you must turn the engine manually to check these marks line up BEFORE starting the engine.👍
Thanks SiRobb for response! I did NOT turn the engine manually before I started the engine, that was a careless error on my part! If I redo the belt again, obviously, I would have to manually turn each of the two top camshaft pulleys and also the crankshaft pulley to realigned. Is this the only course of action, you think? Thank you!
+Ky Cam Unfortunately, I'm not going to say what you should do now as I don't have much experience with your engine and your car isn't in front of me so that is your choice.
If you are unsure, don't start the engine and seek professional advice.
Good luck. 👍
Thank you for your advice!
The big mother at the bottom of the crankshaft gets 300nm ?? Im about to do the same at the weekend. Thank you for your great Video.
Yes, 300Nm on the D5.
Good luck.
@@sirobb It all worked very vell. Thank you for showing me how to do this.
excelente video... con cuantos kilometros hiciste el cambio de tu correa de distribución. saludos
Thanks for the video , but unfortunately my water pump broke and after replacement of the pump and the timing belt .... I discovered that there are also problems with something in the cylinder head ... Do you have a link for a video explaining the way to remove the cylinder head ? thanks in advance for your help .
I don't know of a video for that unfortunately.
I would recommend using Vida as it will show the full procedure including any special tools required for crankshaft and camshaft locking for example.
@@sirobb Thanks for your answer and advise . I am not so sure about the best way to get VIDA . It seems there are free downloads . Do you think it is better to purchase it and where ?
Sorry ; I know your channel is not a chat forum, but you are looking so expert .
That's ok, I try to answer where I can.
I sell brand new, tested and guaranteed working Dice which come with Vida 2014d and full installation instructions for £100 delivered in the UK.
There are cheaper options from other sellers but the Dice often aren't tested or known to work correctly.
Their Vida instructions are often useless too so it comes down to how certain you want to be when having Dice and Vida.
Hi +SiRobb
You don't really show you putting the belt on in this video. I just did mine on my P3 V70 this weekend and couldn't believe how difficult it was to get the belt over all the pulleys and tensioner. It was a lot tighter than I imagined! Was this the same for you?
(In the end I put it over the pulley, tensioner and water pump then squeezed it over the idler!)
I don't show the final belt installation because it was impossible to film alone but as it is, the routing is straightforward filming isn't really necessary.
The belt is supposed to be a very close fit and you finish on the tensioner pulley.
The reason you finish on the tensioner is because it has an adjusting mechanism which allows the belt to be installed easily.
Explained in the video at 20m00sec.
Cheers Rob! I got it on none the less and it's been working for a couple of hundred miles now luckily! Fingers crossed all is therfore okay. Next time I'll try finish on the tensioner!
Great video, why did you laugh when you said “flange screws”🤔🤭
Very comprehensive video. I'm going to use this to tackle this job on the families xc70.
Just one question, where can I get the tool you used in the end to lock the 4 pulley-bolts?
I got mine from a main dealer FRF Swansea. It takes a few working days to arrive though as it's a special order from Sweden so allow for that. Cost was £30 but you can obviously resell it to recoup your money.
The part number escapes me but it's clearly shown in my D5 Cambelt buying guide video.
+sirobb Thank you!
Thank you for such a great and informative video. Could you please tell me what is the torque Nm for small 4 bolts on the crank pulley?
Thank you👍😁
good film:) regards from Poland
Hi rob do you not have to lock the cams in place before tsking the cambelt off many thanks
No. You can if you want to but it's up to you.
@@sirobb thanks i just wondered as ive bought the crank pully tool and it came with the locking pins but wondered where they actually locate
Nice video. I take your point about the longevity of the water pump but at 180,000 miles I would probably have changed it anyway!
There are enough 300000 mile water pumps to give me confidence to leave it alone.
Also, Volvo don't supply a timing kit that includes the pump.
If failure was common, they would recommend change and sell you another pump, like they do with the various pulleys.
I've heard of water pump failures on many other manufacturers' engines but NEVER on a D5 so I'm assuming your experience is different.
Good to know. I've never had a water pump fail but then I've always changed them with the belt if required.
I suppose if you had any doubt about the service history and were unsure of how well the cooling system had been maintained it might change your thinking, but if they're that good then if it ain't broke leave it alone.
+Badgertronix Of course yes, there are many service factors which may influence your decision which is why I say to weigh it up for yourself once you're in there.
I only use Volvo Coolant and if your D5 is well maintained, with no prior issues in that area, the pump should easily last to the third belt change.
If you do change it, use another genuine pump otherwise you'll be fitting something that's worse quality than the original.
Hi SirRob, after setting the camshaft and crankshaft timing before removing the old belt, how to lock the pulleys to keep the timing in place whilst fiddling everything? I have done duratec engine which we will lock the crankshaft with pin and a flat bar on the camshaft.
How about this D5?
Cheers.
Hi have you any idea the change interval for the 2007 v70 D5 SE auto new shape . I'm thinking on buying the car its showing 141k mileage and I'm curious how often these belts need changing . Thanks in advance for any info
108k miles or 10 years so it should have had at least one belt and pulley change.
It may also have the redesigned auxiliary tensioner which was problematic and required changing every 54k miles.
Best to clarify with a main dealer.
@@sirobb thanks Si think I will just put it in for a belt and tensioner water pump etc so it's done for peace of mind . I've got the choice of 2 cars older 05 xc 70 D5 se estate or the 07 v70 D5 se estate both 140k and auto . Currently got an 02 v70 D5 manual just turned 200000k getting a bit tired in her old age timeto replace her .
@@MrFrankGallagher Just bear in mind that if the water pump is original, they're good for 300k+ miles.
If you do change it, only change it for another genuine Volvo pump.
@@sirobb thanks for all your help much appreciated
An excellent video....you haven't done one for a 3rd gen Celica by any chance??😊
Do you not get new bolts in the Volvo kit for the Tensioner and idler? Never seen that before. Most Dealer kits and OEM equivalent kits have bolts I found. Remember most belts are made by others even if it says Volvo. Same as Engine oil. Asda does not make their own oil. They used to get it from Castrol. That may of changed though. The Volvo warranty might be good but if you fit it yourself the warranty might not matter at all. Check there terms and conditions about warranty. They might want a garage to do it that is VAT registered.
Hi there sirobb my Volvo S60 d5 2007 has just started loseing coolant. heads fine no milky oil cap but wet patch is we’re water pump is . How much would a water pump and timming belt cost to fix thanks great video
Hi Simon, just a quick question to pick your brains if you don't mind please. Same engine as yours - I'm in the middle of changing the timing and aux belts. I've removed the aux tensioner pulley assembly and am fitting the new one. I can get it bolted in no problem and it seems to be seated correctly but when placing it before putting in the bolts it doesn't seem to be fitting snugly into any sort of crevice. Does it be loose right up until the two 10mm bolts are all the way?
There are two different types of tensioner unit for the D5244T depending on chassis number and they're not interchangeable so be certain of compatibility first.
See my auxiliary belt video here @ 12:35 th-cam.com/video/DLyiYnUkQuE/w-d-xo.html
Well done. Great video!
soo say if an air gun and breaker bar WITH a counter hold tool from CTA and the nut is still stuck and won't even move at all. what should a guy do? my crank seal is leaking more an more. Can it be cut off? or chiseled off? not ideal but if I can't get it loose before the seal goes out then I am screwed either way.. It has me feeling like I am loosing my mind I have tried so much with no success 😮💨
Fantastic video! Thank you for uploading this. Did you needed to remove spark plugs in order for you to turn the crank shaft for timing mark alignment? Also do you disconnect battery? (in dash radio loses codes...)
Thank you.
No spark plug removal because a D5 is diesel and no battery disconnection because the radio doesn't have a code.
This is the specific procedure for the D5 so if you're changing the timing belt on anything else, you can't use all the info in this video.
I'm glad you enjoyed it though.
Thank you for your light-speed reply! oh yeah that's right. you gotta diesel eng. Does it still turn with compression? (assuming D5 uses glow plug). I have B5254T engine and your video was super helpful!
+K Shinohara No problem.
Yes the engine turned fine without any glow plug or injector removal but you could obviously feel some resistance from the compression which is normal.
Very helpful video. I am about to do the same within few months (S60, D5, MY2007). Only question I have with all this. If I want to also change waterpump do I have to lift / lower the engine for that? Or it should slide out without moving engine. If anybody knows that it would be nice to know.
would you suggest changing the thermostat as part of major service?
No, you can use diagnostics to view the coolant temperature and see the performance of the thermostat.
D5 thermostats normally last a *very* long time.
@@sirobb just like waterpumps, I called up 3 volvo dealerships 5 times and they told me volvo does not specifyy when to change it and they never had one fail. They last 200k happily and that blew my mind.
@@robertasviskupaitis9195 Yes that's right and most last much more than that. 300k miles is not unusual and you know that if a main dealer could sell them to make more money, they would recommend it every time.
You obviously check the water pump like I show in the video but mine won't be changed until the 3rd timing belt change.