Very nice built, Donald. Specially that everything seems to be as centered as possible in the bike. Then, lucky you with those 520 sprockets still so difficult to get here in Europe.
You guys are tough up in those Northern Climates. We are cold here at 10 degree C. Many people in the Northern part of the US and Canada come to our city for winter warmth from November to April. We call them the "Snow Birds" We just went for a ride in the desert yesterday and it was 18-20 degrees C. Fine temperature to ride
I'd like to know also. I see these Marine switches rated to 48volts but I'm running 84V max and don't want to arch out the switch. The 300amp ANL circuit breakers are huge and the ANL fuses are slow to burn. Would love to do this marine switch if it's working great so far!
Awesome build, I got this motor's little brother, the QS120 at 2KW. V3 version with gear reduction 1:2.45 I believe - do you think its strong enough to power a pitbike frame 17 inch up front 14 inch rear? Looking at about 50kg's for the bike, excluding battery and motor - built up it will weight approx. 62 - 65 kilo's, with a 70 kilo rider. It looks like you've got all the power you need on that beauty, I figured I only needed torque not the top speed.
That motor is a little underpowered. We put the QS 138 70H V3 in the KX85-100, YZ85, RM85 etc with the Votol EM150SP/2 controller. A 20S8P ( Lishen 21700 cells as a minimum )battery will give you good performance
@@dcoxryton Yep, thats the motor my brother got. I might have to look for a slightly lighter frame in retrospect. Thank you for the reply my friend. Enjoy the sick build, looking really proper.
Does the 60 degree hall sensor work out for you ? We run a EM150 2/SP with the QS 138 70 & if the track is pretty smooth it is perfect.. but if it gets super rough it will cut off from time to time. Or if you let the chain get too loose and go through a whoop section it will cut off going into the corner It seems to always cut off kinda off throttle.. AJ Cantanzaro raced it 4 motos at Tomahawk this weekend and it was perfect all weekend except the last moto someone bumped his rear wheel in a corner & he said it cut off for a second..this has always been an issue for us.. Im considering something vesc and the encoder system...20s8p molicell all copper .... your thoughts...
Wow. First off, all of ours are set up at 60 degree hall sensor, and they seem to be fine. Are you running an ElectroandCompany.com setup and tune? Do you have a BMS on the battery? We run our batteries with only BMS charge control so the battery isn't an issue, we have seen a lot of temp problems in the battery, specially if the BMS is inside the battery box, but those are usually stopping faults. I have not had a single fault cutout, or drop and restart with my combo very similar to yours due to the motor or controller, in 500-600 laps at the track. With my old battery I could only get 390A ( a 42AH battery) (no faults though) now I am getting 400+Amps with my new battery (20S12P Molicel) ( no faults either). My current meter only reads to 400A and then goes to FFFF. I've seen that a few times. We have seen this problem on a couple other bikes, and one was moisture in the encoder part of the motor. He had submerged the bike early on. There is a link on it in Facebook "Electric Motorcycle Builds". I think I have seen you on that forum. The o-rings are too small on the encoder cover, but if you have moisture in there, it stops and then starts again until it stops altogether. I got some other stuff, why don't you start a conversation with me on "ElectriDirtRiders.com" forum, so I can send some pics and info. I have a EM260S controller, their new one from E&C.com and it is getting faults just like you are talking about. But E&C says they have a firmware upgrade for me to fix that. "Overcurrent dropouts" on the new Honda I just built , also on the Facebook Electric Motorcycle Builds forum. They are all under my name Donald Cox
The QS 130 can't run an encoder set up with the Voltol controller.... If you are running vesc stuff with the aftermarket encoder then yes...@@dcoxryton
I built the battery in two halves, each half is a 20S6P battery and it's own ANT Smart BMS used for Charge only. The 2 batteries are in Parallel in the bike. I can run on either one of the batteries at 250Amps, or both batteries together at 500Amps. That way I can disconnect the 2 batteries for Charging only and Charge each battery on its own 15A Charger when I only have 120VAC. One good Honda 2200W generator can charge one battery, get 2, or a 3500-4000W generator can run both. I have variable Amp chargers, because at altitude generators don't put out as many watts. But with this system, I can go from 30-40% to 90-100% in about an hour
No I don't. The black kill switch was actually on the donor bike as the perch mount for the front brake reservoir. I added a back side to it and mounted it on the left side. There are a bunch of them on Amazon from $9.95 TO $49.95. They have similar switches to the ON/OFF and 3Mode Switch on Amazon too, but not that one identical. The switch actually came with the motor kit from ElectroandCompany.com www.electroandcompany.com/product-page/e-c-prepared-switch-gear-5-pin
Hey bro, how did you create the geometry of the bracket to mount the engine to the frame? Is this bracket sold somewhere or did you design it yourself?
Looks great Don! So is the EM260S different than just the EM260? Looks the heatsink has some fins? And you've liquid cooled and located the controller where the left radiator should be. Very nice and I'd imagine that will keep things much cooler than the previous builds.
Yes the EM260S is the new version of the EM260SP/2. It is smaller, and it says that it is good for 500A??? haven't seen that yet. The heatsink on the left radiators spot is for the BMS's. I split the battery into 2 packs, so I can put 2 x 15A chargers on it for faster recharge. And the BMS's were overheating after a couple charges. So I moved them out of the battery box and on their own heatsink cooling spot. The controller is where the airbox was , and I do have a water cooling system on it. It is all hooked up, but I haven't pressure tested it yet, or put antifreeze in it yet. We are going to Glen Helen to test it tomorrow.
@@dcoxryton Very cool! Always innovative and informative. Thank you! Interesting idea to separate the BMS. Makes a lot of sense. Is that a common thing to do in electronics? Haven't seen it in my limited battery/builder exposure.
Lithuim-King.com. They have regular front Sprocket, and they have a new model with a greater shaft contact area. If this is your first build i would recommend getting the kit from ElectroandCompany.com. Save yourself a lot of headache.
Most of the bikes we have built, and other people riding them say the have 250 top end and 450 power out of the turns. I am putting a mode in the controller to increase the top end 20%. I am going to test it tomorrow It should improve the top end , and low end power is there.
No I don't post much or anything on Instagram, but I have a lot of my work on Facebook "Electric Motorcycle Builds" and on the forum ElectricDirtRiders.com, the old AltaOwnersForum.com. Glad to be helpful . Start a conversation on the ElectricDirtRiders.com forum with me and I can share info and pics. @@racingfortheson
Thanks for the compliments. The front wheel has 110lbs on it and the rear has 116lbs on it. I haven't filled the controller cooling system yet, and a few more cooling parts. Maybe 2 lbs more. The empty donor bike weighed 72lbs on the front ant 71lbs on the rear.
I build the batteries. It is a 20S12P Molicel P42A. The case I can get for you for about $200 for just the aluminum shell. The approx size of the alum box is 8 1/4" by 6" by 13 1/4 tall. This size box works in this 2022-2023 Honda CRF 250-450, and in 2014 and newer YZ250F and YZ450F frames. Send me an email and i will send you photos.
About 30 miles on the street or trail riding. It is a 3.6KW battery, about 100 to 150watts per mile. On the track a friend with the same setup ( same motor, controller, and 3.6KW battery in a YZ) raced some motos at Glen Helen on the Hill Course. 6 laps race, and he was just under 50% battery left. It might make 10 hard moto laps. There is a quick change battery system a friend is making for the 2014 and newer YZ250F/450F. This year 2022-2024 CRF could be made into a quick change also.
Very nice built, Donald. Specially that everything seems to be as centered as possible in the bike. Then, lucky you with those 520 sprockets still so difficult to get here in Europe.
Thanks Antonio. Lithium-King has 520 sprockets with a wider shaft area. I think he ships to Europe.
Your constructions are great!! ..could you make another short video explaining the configuration of your Votol EM260, it would be great
Let me look into that
Nice👍 looks little warmer than here in Finland😅 yesterday it was -15❄️ and i drive 1h
I have spike tires and lots warm clothes and not get cold🥶
You guys are tough up in those Northern Climates. We are cold here at 10 degree C. Many people in the Northern part of the US and Canada come to our city for winter warmth from November to April. We call them the "Snow Birds" We just went for a ride in the desert yesterday and it was 18-20 degrees C. Fine temperature to ride
Looks like Fun
Thanks , it is.
Красавчик!)
What main power switch are you using? I have a similar setup, 40ah Amorge battery with EM200 but don’t have a main power disconnect
I'd like to know also. I see these Marine switches rated to 48volts but I'm running 84V max and don't want to arch out the switch. The 300amp ANL circuit breakers are huge and the ANL fuses are slow to burn. Would love to do this marine switch if it's working great so far!
Awesome build, I got this motor's little brother, the QS120 at 2KW. V3 version with gear reduction 1:2.45 I believe - do you think its strong enough to power a pitbike frame 17 inch up front 14 inch rear? Looking at about 50kg's for the bike, excluding battery and motor - built up it will weight approx. 62 - 65 kilo's, with a 70 kilo rider.
It looks like you've got all the power you need on that beauty, I figured I only needed torque not the top speed.
That motor is a little underpowered. We put the QS 138 70H V3 in the KX85-100, YZ85, RM85 etc with the Votol EM150SP/2 controller. A 20S8P ( Lishen 21700 cells as a minimum )battery will give you good performance
@@dcoxryton Yep, thats the motor my brother got. I might have to look for a slightly lighter frame in retrospect. Thank you for the reply my friend. Enjoy the sick build, looking really proper.
Does the 60 degree hall sensor work out for you ? We run a EM150 2/SP with the QS 138 70 & if the track is pretty smooth it is perfect.. but if it gets super rough it will cut off from time to time. Or if you let the chain get too loose and go through a whoop section it will cut off going into the corner It seems to always cut off kinda off throttle.. AJ Cantanzaro raced it 4 motos at Tomahawk this weekend and it was perfect all weekend except the last moto someone bumped his rear wheel in a corner & he said it cut off for a second..this has always been an issue for us.. Im considering something vesc and the encoder system...20s8p molicell all copper .... your thoughts...
Wow. First off, all of ours are set up at 60 degree hall sensor, and they seem to be fine. Are you running an ElectroandCompany.com setup and tune? Do you have a BMS on the battery? We run our batteries with only BMS charge control so the battery isn't an issue, we have seen a lot of temp problems in the battery, specially if the BMS is inside the battery box, but those are usually stopping faults. I have not had a single fault cutout, or drop and restart with my combo very similar to yours due to the motor or controller, in 500-600 laps at the track. With my old battery I could only get 390A ( a 42AH battery) (no faults though) now I am getting 400+Amps with my new battery (20S12P Molicel) ( no faults either). My current meter only reads to 400A and then goes to FFFF. I've seen that a few times. We have seen this problem on a couple other bikes, and one was moisture in the encoder part of the motor. He had submerged the bike early on. There is a link on it in Facebook "Electric Motorcycle Builds". I think I have seen you on that forum. The o-rings are too small on the encoder cover, but if you have moisture in there, it stops and then starts again until it stops altogether. I got some other stuff, why don't you start a conversation with me on "ElectriDirtRiders.com" forum, so I can send some pics and info. I have a EM260S controller, their new one from E&C.com and it is getting faults just like you are talking about. But E&C says they have a firmware upgrade for me to fix that. "Overcurrent dropouts" on the new Honda I just built , also on the Facebook Electric Motorcycle Builds forum. They are all under my name Donald Cox
The QS 130 can't run an encoder set up with the Voltol controller.... If you are running vesc stuff with the aftermarket encoder then yes...@@dcoxryton
What are the specs of the batteries? Are the two batteries wired in series?
I built the battery in two halves, each half is a 20S6P battery and it's own ANT Smart BMS used for Charge only. The 2 batteries are in Parallel in the bike. I can run on either one of the batteries at 250Amps, or both batteries together at 500Amps. That way I can disconnect the 2 batteries for Charging only and Charge each battery on its own 15A Charger when I only have 120VAC. One good Honda 2200W generator can charge one battery, get 2, or a 3500-4000W generator can run both. I have variable Amp chargers, because at altitude generators don't put out as many watts. But with this system, I can go from 30-40% to 90-100% in about an hour
@@dcoxryton c'est un exellent choix !
Do you have a link to the stuff u have on the left side your handlebar?
No I don't. The black kill switch was actually on the donor bike as the perch mount for the front brake reservoir. I added a back side to it and mounted it on the left side. There are a bunch of them on Amazon from $9.95 TO $49.95. They have similar switches to the ON/OFF and 3Mode Switch on Amazon too, but not that one identical. The switch actually came with the motor kit from ElectroandCompany.com www.electroandcompany.com/product-page/e-c-prepared-switch-gear-5-pin
Hey bro, how did you create the geometry of the bracket to mount the engine to the frame? Is this bracket sold somewhere or did you design it yourself?
Lithium-Kimg.com built it for me. Give him a few simple measurement, ( but you must be accurate), and he will get them made for you.
Looks great Don! So is the EM260S different than just the EM260? Looks the heatsink has some fins? And you've liquid cooled and located the controller where the left radiator should be. Very nice and I'd imagine that will keep things much cooler than the previous builds.
Yes the EM260S is the new version of the EM260SP/2. It is smaller, and it says that it is good for 500A??? haven't seen that yet. The heatsink on the left radiators spot is for the BMS's. I split the battery into 2 packs, so I can put 2 x 15A chargers on it for faster recharge. And the BMS's were overheating after a couple charges. So I moved them out of the battery box and on their own heatsink cooling spot. The controller is where the airbox was , and I do have a water cooling system on it. It is all hooked up, but I haven't pressure tested it yet, or put antifreeze in it yet. We are going to Glen Helen to test it tomorrow.
@@dcoxryton Very cool! Always innovative and informative. Thank you! Interesting idea to separate the BMS. Makes a lot of sense. Is that a common thing to do in electronics? Haven't seen it in my limited battery/builder exposure.
I'm about to do this exact swap on a 07 crf250r. what size chain did you use? if you used 520 where did you get the front sprocket?
Lithuim-King.com. They have regular front Sprocket, and they have a new model with a greater shaft contact area. If this is your first build i would recommend getting the kit from ElectroandCompany.com. Save yourself a lot of headache.
How does this motor setup work against a 250f or 450f? As far as power or racing?
Most of the bikes we have built, and other people riding them say the have 250 top end and 450 power out of the turns. I am putting a mode in the controller to increase the top end 20%. I am going to test it tomorrow It should improve the top end , and low end power is there.
@@dcoxryton I have the Electro & Co kit ordered now. Your videos have been very helpful. Do you have an Instagram we can follow?
No I don't post much or anything on Instagram, but I have a lot of my work on Facebook "Electric Motorcycle Builds" and on the forum ElectricDirtRiders.com, the old AltaOwnersForum.com. Glad to be helpful . Start a conversation on the ElectricDirtRiders.com forum with me and I can share info and pics. @@racingfortheson
@@dcoxryton done 🤘🏾
What's the weight of the bike with the current set up?
Looks well thought out and fabbed up nice.
Thanks for the compliments. The front wheel has 110lbs on it and the rear has 116lbs on it. I haven't filled the controller cooling system yet, and a few more cooling parts. Maybe 2 lbs more. The empty donor bike weighed 72lbs on the front ant 71lbs on the rear.
How fast it goes
About 55-60MPH
What battery were you using. Looks great
I build the batteries. It is a 20S12P Molicel P42A. The case I can get for you for about $200 for just the aluminum shell. The approx size of the alum box is 8 1/4" by 6" by 13 1/4 tall. This size box works in this 2022-2023 Honda CRF 250-450, and in 2014 and newer YZ250F and YZ450F frames. Send me an email and i will send you photos.
That bike looks so good! How long will the battery last on a normal ride?
About 30 miles on the street or trail riding. It is a 3.6KW battery, about 100 to 150watts per mile. On the track a friend with the same setup ( same motor, controller, and 3.6KW battery in a YZ) raced some motos at Glen Helen on the Hill Course. 6 laps race, and he was just under 50% battery left. It might make 10 hard moto laps. There is a quick change battery system a friend is making for the 2014 and newer YZ250F/450F. This year 2022-2024 CRF could be made into a quick change also.
Super underwhelming
Tbf he said mode 3 wasnt working so its detuned rn. But what did you expect, liter bike acceleration?