Again another very instructive video, thanks David. I have the metal spunding valve and I think it also has a good utility for carbonation in corny. However, I have asked for the blowtie that will undoubtedly be more appreciated for precise control in isobaric fermentation. Greetings!
Great videos as always David. I have a stainless steel version of the pop-it spund valve and love it. Used it one many brews and it behaves like a rock star. Personally I will take steel over plastic any day as I know I will be able to clean and use this for a life time. Keep making your videos!
As usual farmative and even more - useful. In my own planned circumstance I would be using a Pressure Vessel (an old type King Keg type thing) and making the connect simply to the S30 valve outlet hole with something not yet decided. I notice that your illustrations show what looks like a blow off line and I would imagine I would need this because the total volume of the Keg, and the observation that it is ball shaped means that the area above the fermenting wort would quickly overflow. I am going to watch your Easy Guide video to see if this is addressed. I do not use Corny thingies because the Gas is not easy for me to obtain and thyey are expensive (and small) so I would appreciate opinion as to if this could also be dispensed from the same cask (in which case I would possibly need a Tee type fitting to be able to pressurise with an S30 cylinder adapter for the last few servings) or if I would have to think of a way to transfer to a serving cask without lifting the sediment. Thank you for a useful video.
Very nice video/educational. My setup: I ferment for a week in a bucket, then transfer to keg for a week. This works so well - all the CO2 I need is self generated. Your great idea will help me keep my yeast from getting damaged and make a better beer. :)
David Heath Homebrew I also wish I saw this video. I just finished building a brass one from the parts I ordered online thinking the brass PRV would be better than the plastic one. I have been pressure testing kegs for possible leaks, but now I’m not sure if I am getting accurate readings? The pressure keeps dropping after a couple of hours. Not sure if there are leaks, or if the PRV is inaccurate? Thanks for explaining the diaphragm model. That makes much more sense. Guess I will order that one. Thanks for all you do. I enjoy your channel and knowledge and ease of explaining things. I have learned a lot!
Thank you very much. Thank you. I have to say that I'm a novice meaning I have no experience and no knowledge of equipment like this and other knowledge. Could it be easier that one of you people that do this that actually can actually go through each style of the equipment that the person would use? Okay with all the tanks and all the different varieties but have them in one video each like the first one. The ball lock. That's the first video explaining everything. The second video I have no idea but it's really confusing for me because I don't know anything. Is there any way to actually get information easier out to the public? And I really do appreciate your diagram and your explanation. Thank you again, I appreciate it a lot. Thank you
Hey Kevin, no problem. I have you covered there with a series of videos that cover everything you need to know when starting out, including about equipment. Here is the playlist link:- th-cam.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_biHp7Y3xIB7TnAY6Ru7pE.html&si=b64bJShxyKZfgKe2
Thank you very much. I've been really confused. I needed help. But nobody has actually explained the equipment and tools and the knowledge and I thought that everybody would be doing that. And I was going to actually contact another person that does what you do and see if they would do it. But you beat me to the punch by explaining about the spending valve so I figured that's better than nothing. At least you started somewhere where everybody else didn't even start anywhere. They just started talking about both units at the same time which is even more confusing because well for some people it's all jumbled up for other people. It's not but for me it is all jumbled up. I don't want to accidentally purchase something and what I have at home is totally different or I try to go on to like buy the item and then find out I wasted money on it. I don't want to do that
Great to hear Kevin. Not many cover the basic stuff these days because they do not get many views but for me this is part of my hobby and passion, not a business and I really want to support those that need help getting started. I hope you find the content answers all your questions but if not then feel free to ask 🍻🍻🍻
Okay, this is a topic that might be good for your next video. I don't know if it is or not but can you please talk about each individual kegs please because I'm really confused. And please let me know when that video is going to be available so I can actually look at it carefully. Because all these different style kegs, different style connections. It's all confusing. I know that some people have their own types of hooking up kegs up to their own system but still start having some more information available for everybody like I'm trying to. I guess you can say be part of the Brewing community but where I live there's nobody making any beer in their own location. So I was also wondering is there any place that I can actually find local Brewers or home Brewers in other words because I would like to try their beer that they make. I would like to know what is different between store-bought beer and homemade beer. I know some of the things are different and some of the things are the same. But I would like to know have I mean I would like to have the information or even find in a community but I can't seem to find them on Facebook in my own area of Hamilton. By my knowledge, the only place where I might be able to buy some of the equipment is I'm going to have to go online and buy it. Thank you very much for your input and I will definitely soak all the information up and thank you again. I was really confused on spending velve. What is a spending belt? How does that stupid thing work like? There's no information but thank you very much for giving me the information I needed. Thank you a lot. I appreciate it a lot
David, thanks for your informative videos. Just started the ferment of one of your czech pilsner recipes. I'm using a blow tie spunding valve set up. With a small bit of gas line coming out of the exit end. Do I need to put that tube through an airlock or is it unlikely that there will be any draw of contaminated air/bugs into the fermenter before there is some outward pressure from fermentation reaction
Hi, First I wanted to say that I really like your channel, as a new brewer your video are full a very good information. I recently start brewing and I’m using the fermzilla with the pressure kit. I know the advantage the fermenting under pressure (less risk of oxygenation, less fusel and off flavor, faster fermentation, carbonation, ....) And I would like to continue to ferment under pressure but I can’t find online information about what pressure to use depending of the type of beer or type of yeast!?! I had a bad experience with a belgian ale (yeast belle Saison) which stall and didn’t really like the pressure and a good experience with the pale ale (yeast safale US-05). Next I would like to do a Belgian wit (partial mash) I’m still looking for a good recipe (if you have some advise will be appreciated), but should I do it with the airlock or under pressure and with which pressure? Thank you in advance for your time. Cheers Johan
Many thanks Johan. Yes different yeast will react differently. The net has a fair amount of info if you google the yeast type and pressure fermentation. Generally soeaking 10-12 PSI is the sweet spot for most.
Hi David Thanks for your informative video once again. A bit off topic but cant find an answer, I have recently done my first batch under pressure however after I pitched the yeast and it sunk into the beer I connected a co2 bottle and got my spunding valve set to 10 or 11 psi. Is this a problem? I have noticed theres not much krausen on the wort and worried it has killed the yeast. Thanks for your help
Great vid Davo, So for newbs to pressure fermentation do you recommend charging the fermzilla to 10 psi straight after the yeast (us05/mj44 or say kveik) is added or just purge the FZ with co2 & then let the fermentation naturally build the pressure up to the desired pressure.
I'd say neither. At the beginning of fermentation, your yeast need oxygen to function well. That's why many brewers will go so far as to inject their prefermented wort with pure oxygen using a carbonation stone. Your yeast will produce enough Co2 to fill your fermenter head space many times over. My advice is to add your yeast, close your fermenter, attach your spunding valve and let nature take over.
Hi David Great vid very informative, I'm very new to the pressure fermenting thing so forgive the question I'm in the middle of my first brew (IPA) in a corny keg, I've let the first 2 days of co2 off ( no pressure ) and then adjusted my spunding valve to about 10 psi, has been bubbling away for 5 days now My question is, how do I know when the beer has finished ?? I forgot to cut the drip tube down a little so will pickup a lot of sludge from the bottom first :( so do I bleed it out till I get clear beer and test with a hydrometer or just wait till it stop bubbling ?? Thanks for any help Sorry for the long question Cheers Mark
I have both types of spunding valves. I agree the brass type is next to useless, however, the kegland butterfly valves have begun to lose gas in my lagering kegs. I secondary ferment my kegs to 25psi at room temperature for a week with the belief that when I put the keg into the lagering fridge, the lower temperature will bring the gas pressure down to around 15psi. This worked well for a couple of months, now I just take a pressure reading after attaching the spunding valve. If I leave the spunding valve attached, I lose all the fermented gas. I am looking at pulling one apart and see if they need cleaning even though I can seen no evidence of beer travelling through the clear gas lines.
Hi Mark, no I have not but I can tell you that the blowtie has proven its accuracy to me. Ive tested the different versions with and without the inbuild gauges. There is a digital display version coming also.
Lately for my first time I have tried to pressure ferment two strong lager beers. The wort in both brews is the same only the yeast in each vessel is different. SafLager S-23 & White Labs WLP800. OG was about 1.063. They are fermenting in two 18-liter corny kegs, (about 15 liters of brew in each) and I am using Keglands spundingvalves, each set at 10 PSI. They have been fermenting with a surrounding temperature at about 18 degrees celsius for three weeks now and there is no sign of the fermentation slowing down as the pressure is constant at 10 PSI. Puzzled by why the fermentation time is dragging on so long I also wonder if the pressure indicated on the meters attached the spundingvalves slowly will drop to zero once the fermentation slows down and comes to a stop? Today I briefly decreased the co2 pressure to zero pulling the safety valve pin on the lid but half an hour later the pressure was back up to 10 PSI to what I had set the spundingvalves to.
Thank you Mr. Heath for your amazing videos. I have a question. I’m about to make a Vienna lager this weekend and ferment under pressure. I have the blowtie with the gauge. How exactly do I set the pressure? I can’t seem to find a video that goes through using the blowtie. From what I know, if I set the pressure to 10psi, then it will vent off above that. But should the blowtie be completely closed during it?
Thank you. The easiest way is to add co2 to the fermenter before adding beer. Check for leaks and set the desired pressure level at the same time using the blowtie adjustment. Start by having it totally closed and adjust slowly until you reach the desired pressure.
David Heath Homebrew And once the desired pressure is reached, do I completely close the blowtie valve and leave it closed during fermentation? Is it supposed to vent off excess pressure like a regular valve?
@@twt_figgy Closed means its not releasing any gas. When you turn the knob the gauge will indicate the pressure you have set. Fermentation is your supply of CO2 gas. To keep a desired pressure, just leave the knob there. The knob sets the force that is required to create bypass. So if you close it all the way the pressure will rise sky high as CO2 is created. I wonder how much pressure yeast could create?
Stephen Fletcher no I found out after buy 3, It is impossibly to dial lower than what pressure out of the regular even from 30 20 15 to 8psi. Very misleading. I’m trying figure out other way to use one tank co2 with 4 keg with different psi so far not successful
These are dealing with co2 out rather than in. I have recently been testing 2 different options that act as secondary regulators though and I will have a video in January that covers this :)
would it be possible to hook a C02 tank to a fermenting bucket? If so, would this be a good way to remove oxygen after dry hop additions? With this being the case, it wouldn't be a pressure fermentation. It would only be used as a way to remove oxygen after the lid is back on.
It varies depending on the type of yeast and the end result required. I cover this side of pressure fermentation in this video:- th-cam.com/video/W7WSFn6bNoA/w-d-xo.html
I have one question if somebody has time to explain to me. It is stressed that you should add oxygen to your beer to allow the yeast optimal condition. Using this setup your are flushing all oxygen. Do the yeast work without any oxygen too?
Hi Anders. Sure no problem. Oxygen is needed by your yeast for fermentation. However, once this is over oxygen becomes the enemy and will cause beer to go stale.
Just a quick heads-up, that BlowTie has been superseded by: www.kegland.com.au/duotight-blowtie-2-with-integrated-gauge-0-23psi.html Of course I saw this 2 days after I ordered the old one
keg lands quality control is like 1 every 5000 tested , my fermzilla came with cross threaded butterfly valve nuts that are so loose the washers spin freely and uneven top cap thread screws that a thread kit with half mm variables tries to rethread on any setting , even if its not set and can move on its own , it will not align without attempting to cut some plastic ... kegland wont reply to email , even though i bought it from a registered wholesalers store. ( because kegland site declined my card 3 times over a system error during payment) . all in all regretful purchase
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have not heard of such issues from others and my experience is 100% positive so far. Sounds like you should get a replacement.
Great review David. Thanks for covering this product. We should also get you to review this one when you have a chance: th-cam.com/video/i4YV9-xvsdA/w-d-xo.html This new type has integrated gauge. This smaller gauge is not as accurate as the large gauge but some customers might find being more compact is preferable. Would be good to see what you think of this one. We only just started using this new model in Australia so I would be keen to get your feedback.
Always the best channel for homebrew advice.
Cheers Paul 🍻🍻🍻
Again another very instructive video, thanks David.
I have the metal spunding valve and I think it also has a good utility for carbonation in corny. However, I have asked for the blowtie that will undoubtedly be more appreciated for precise control in isobaric fermentation.
Greetings!
Thanks Fernando. Yes, this type of spunding valve is much better for sure.
Great videos as always David. I have a stainless steel version of the pop-it spund valve and love it. Used it one many brews and it behaves like a rock star. Personally I will take steel over plastic any day as I know I will be able to clean and use this for a life time. Keep making your videos!
Many thanks Tim :)
Cheers David. The new blowtie from kegland has a built in pressure gauge. Haven’t got one yet but looks convenient. Great vid. Thanks again 🍻
Yes, I am waiting for release to test that one. Looks interesting.
As usual farmative and even more - useful. In my own planned circumstance I would be using a Pressure Vessel (an old type King Keg type thing) and making the connect simply to the S30 valve outlet hole with something not yet decided.
I notice that your illustrations show what looks like a blow off line and I would imagine I would need this because the total volume of the Keg, and the observation that it is ball shaped means that the area above the fermenting wort would quickly overflow. I am going to watch your Easy Guide video to see if this is addressed. I do not use Corny thingies because the Gas is not easy for me to obtain and thyey are expensive (and small) so I would appreciate opinion as to if this could also be dispensed from the same cask (in which case I would possibly need a Tee type fitting to be able to pressurise with an S30 cylinder adapter for the last few servings) or if I would have to think of a way to transfer to a serving cask without lifting the sediment.
Thank you for a useful video.
Glad you enjoyed it James. Hard to comment on the tank you are converting. I guess these will not hold much pressure though.
Very nice video/educational. My setup: I ferment for a week in a bucket, then transfer to keg for a week. This works so well - all the CO2 I need is self generated. Your great idea will help me keep my yeast from getting damaged and make a better beer. :)
Many thanks Linda, great to hear that you are pleased with the results :) Its a great way to go for sure
I wish I had seen this before I built my spundig with one of the brass ones. I guess I will order the blowtie for my next one.
I guess the main thing is that you now know :) Glad you found it useful James :)
David Heath Homebrew I also wish I saw this video. I just finished building a brass one from the parts I ordered online thinking the brass PRV would be better than the plastic one. I have been pressure testing kegs for possible leaks, but now I’m not sure if I am getting accurate readings? The pressure keeps dropping after a couple of hours. Not sure if there are leaks, or if the PRV is inaccurate? Thanks for explaining the diaphragm model. That makes much more sense. Guess I will order that one. Thanks for all you do. I enjoy your channel and knowledge and ease of explaining things. I have learned a lot!
Thank you very much. Thank you. I have to say that I'm a novice meaning I have no experience and no knowledge of equipment like this and other knowledge. Could it be easier that one of you people that do this that actually can actually go through each style of the equipment that the person would use? Okay with all the tanks and all the different varieties but have them in one video each like the first one. The ball lock. That's the first video explaining everything. The second video I have no idea but it's really confusing for me because I don't know anything. Is there any way to actually get information easier out to the public? And I really do appreciate your diagram and your explanation. Thank you again, I appreciate it a lot. Thank you
Hey Kevin, no problem. I have you covered there with a series of videos that cover everything you need to know when starting out, including about equipment.
Here is the playlist link:- th-cam.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_biHp7Y3xIB7TnAY6Ru7pE.html&si=b64bJShxyKZfgKe2
Thank you very much. I've been really confused. I needed help. But nobody has actually explained the equipment and tools and the knowledge and I thought that everybody would be doing that. And I was going to actually contact another person that does what you do and see if they would do it. But you beat me to the punch by explaining about the spending valve so I figured that's better than nothing. At least you started somewhere where everybody else didn't even start anywhere. They just started talking about both units at the same time which is even more confusing because well for some people it's all jumbled up for other people. It's not but for me it is all jumbled up. I don't want to accidentally purchase something and what I have at home is totally different or I try to go on to like buy the item and then find out I wasted money on it. I don't want to do that
Great to hear Kevin. Not many cover the basic stuff these days because they do not get many views but for me this is part of my hobby and passion, not a business and I really want to support those that need help getting started. I hope you find the content answers all your questions but if not then feel free to ask 🍻🍻🍻
Okay, this is a topic that might be good for your next video. I don't know if it is or not but can you please talk about each individual kegs please because I'm really confused. And please let me know when that video is going to be available so I can actually look at it carefully. Because all these different style kegs, different style connections. It's all confusing. I know that some people have their own types of hooking up kegs up to their own system but still start having some more information available for everybody like I'm trying to. I guess you can say be part of the Brewing community but where I live there's nobody making any beer in their own location. So I was also wondering is there any place that I can actually find local Brewers or home Brewers in other words because I would like to try their beer that they make. I would like to know what is different between store-bought beer and homemade beer. I know some of the things are different and some of the things are the same. But I would like to know have I mean I would like to have the information or even find in a community but I can't seem to find them on Facebook in my own area of Hamilton. By my knowledge, the only place where I might be able to buy some of the equipment is I'm going to have to go online and buy it. Thank you very much for your input and I will definitely soak all the information up and thank you again. I was really confused on spending velve. What is a spending belt? How does that stupid thing work like? There's no information but thank you very much for giving me the information I needed. Thank you a lot. I appreciate it a lot
David, thanks for your informative videos. Just started the ferment of one of your czech pilsner recipes. I'm using a blow tie spunding valve set up. With a small bit of gas line coming out of the exit end. Do I need to put that tube through an airlock or is it unlikely that there will be any draw of contaminated air/bugs into the fermenter before there is some outward pressure from fermentation reaction
Cheers Steve, no need for anything, its a one way valve.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you
🍻🍻🍻
Hi,
First I wanted to say that I really like your channel, as a new brewer your video are full a very good information.
I recently start brewing and I’m using the fermzilla with the pressure kit.
I know the advantage the fermenting under pressure (less risk of oxygenation, less fusel and off flavor, faster fermentation, carbonation, ....) And I would like to continue to ferment under pressure but I can’t find online information about what pressure to use depending of the type of beer or type of yeast!?! I had a bad experience with a belgian ale (yeast belle Saison) which stall and didn’t really like the pressure and a good experience with the pale ale (yeast safale US-05).
Next I would like to do a Belgian wit (partial mash) I’m still looking for a good recipe (if you have some advise will be appreciated), but should I do it with the airlock or under pressure and with which pressure?
Thank you in advance for your time.
Cheers
Johan
Many thanks Johan. Yes different yeast will react differently. The net has a fair amount of info if you google the yeast type and pressure fermentation. Generally soeaking 10-12 PSI is the sweet spot for most.
Ty again for a great video!
I agree that the brass one is tricky.
I got both now 👍🏻
Glad you found it useful, great to get the information out to people so that some can avoid the tricky one :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i did learn the hard way 😉
@@dkkristoffersson Whichever way you learn the important thing is to know for the future :)
Hi David
Thanks for your informative video once again. A bit off topic but cant find an answer, I have recently done my first batch under pressure however after I pitched the yeast and it sunk into the beer I connected a co2 bottle and got my spunding valve set to 10 or 11 psi. Is this a problem? I have noticed theres not much krausen on the wort and worried it has killed the yeast.
Thanks for your help
Hi :) That should be no problem at it. I take it by now things are moving along nicely?
Great vid Davo, So for newbs to pressure fermentation do you recommend charging the fermzilla to 10 psi straight after the yeast (us05/mj44 or say kveik) is added or just purge the FZ with co2 & then let the fermentation naturally build the pressure up to the desired pressure.
Thanks Dazza. I've not found any real difference either way. So what ever is easier I would say.
I'd say neither. At the beginning of fermentation, your yeast need oxygen to function well. That's why many brewers will go so far as to inject their prefermented wort with pure oxygen using a carbonation stone. Your yeast will produce enough Co2 to fill your fermenter head space many times over.
My advice is to add your yeast, close your fermenter, attach your spunding valve and let nature take over.
Hi David
Great vid very informative, I'm very new to the pressure fermenting thing so forgive the question
I'm in the middle of my first brew (IPA) in a corny keg, I've let the first 2 days of co2 off ( no pressure ) and then adjusted my spunding valve to about 10 psi, has been bubbling away for 5 days now
My question is, how do I know when the beer has finished ?? I forgot to cut the drip tube down a little so will pickup a lot of sludge from the bottom first :( so do I bleed it out till I get clear beer and test with a hydrometer or just wait till it stop bubbling ??
Thanks for any help
Sorry for the long question
Cheers Mark
Great, thank you. Yes the only way to know is with a consistent end gravity reading over 3 days. Floating digital hydrometers are very useful :)
Do u close the spunding valve at start of fermentation? Let the pressure build to 12 psi and then adjust blowtie?
I suggest doing a pressure test with water during cleaning. Set your blowtie then 🍻🍻
I have both types of spunding valves.
I agree the brass type is next to useless, however, the kegland butterfly valves have begun to lose gas in my lagering kegs. I secondary ferment my kegs to 25psi at room temperature for a week with the belief that when I put the keg into the lagering fridge, the lower temperature will bring the gas pressure down to around 15psi. This worked well for a couple of months, now I just take a pressure reading after attaching the spunding valve. If I leave the spunding valve attached, I lose all the fermented gas.
I am looking at pulling one apart and see if they need cleaning even though I can seen no evidence of beer travelling through the clear gas lines.
Hmm sounds like you should contact your supplier for a replacement.
Putting the valve from a warm environment to a cold one could effect it's operation, might need adjusting after it's cooled down.
Could do yes :)
David, have you had a chance to try the SPUNDit 2.0? From my limited experience, it seems much more precise than the Blow tie. Cheers
Hi Mark, no I have not but I can tell you that the blowtie has proven its accuracy to me. Ive tested the different versions with and without the inbuild gauges. There is a digital display version coming also.
Hi David, have you had a go at using the fermziller as a unitank and serving from it? if so any thoughts? Cheers!
I have yes, though I do not have a fridge for it so this was more of a concept test. Worked very well. Love the floating ball system.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Cheers David, I think this could be a future purchase, i suspect it might be a godsend for the hoppy stuff.
Lately for my first time I have tried to pressure ferment two strong lager beers. The wort in both brews is the same only the yeast in each vessel is different. SafLager S-23 & White Labs WLP800. OG was about 1.063. They are fermenting in two 18-liter corny kegs, (about 15 liters of brew in each) and I am using Keglands spundingvalves, each set at 10 PSI. They have been fermenting with a surrounding temperature at about 18 degrees celsius for three weeks now and there is no sign of the fermentation slowing down as the pressure is constant at 10 PSI. Puzzled by why the fermentation time is dragging on so long I also wonder if the pressure indicated on the meters attached the spundingvalves slowly will drop to zero once the fermentation slows down and comes to a stop? Today I briefly decreased the co2 pressure to zero pulling the safety valve pin on the lid but half an hour later the pressure was back up to 10 PSI to what I had set the spundingvalves to.
You really need to take a gravity reading on these to see what is actually going on.
Does this gauge and fitment fit the pressure valve on a Wilko pressure keg?
Not that I know of. Its designed as an upgrade for Keglands gauges
Thank you Mr. Heath for your amazing videos. I have a question. I’m about to make a Vienna lager this weekend and ferment under pressure. I have the blowtie with the gauge. How exactly do I set the pressure? I can’t seem to find a video that goes through using the blowtie. From what I know, if I set the pressure to 10psi, then it will vent off above that. But should the blowtie be completely closed during it?
Thank you. The easiest way is to add co2 to the fermenter before adding beer. Check for leaks and set the desired pressure level at the same time using the blowtie adjustment. Start by having it totally closed and adjust slowly until you reach the desired pressure.
David Heath Homebrew And once the desired pressure is reached, do I completely close the blowtie valve and leave it closed during fermentation? Is it supposed to vent off excess pressure like a regular valve?
@@twt_figgy Closed means its not releasing any gas. When you turn the knob the gauge will indicate the pressure you have set. Fermentation is your supply of CO2 gas. To keep a desired pressure, just leave the knob there. The knob sets the force that is required to create bypass. So if you close it all the way the pressure will rise sky high as CO2 is created. I wonder how much pressure yeast could create?
I hear a lot about pressure fermentation for lagers but how about ales? Have been thinking about getting a pressure fermenter
Pressure fermentation is great for lagers and hoppy styles, where yeast esters are not desired.
Hi David, Can these be used as a secondary regulator valve for pressurizing a second keg as well. Many Thanks
Stephen Fletcher no I found out after buy 3, It is impossibly to dial lower than what pressure out of the regular even from 30 20 15 to 8psi. Very misleading. I’m trying figure out other way to use one tank co2 with 4 keg with different psi so far not successful
These are dealing with co2 out rather than in. I have recently been testing 2 different options that act as secondary regulators though and I will have a video in January that covers this :)
Nice video, especially at 1.25x speed!
Haha, thanks...I think :P
would it be possible to hook a C02 tank to a fermenting bucket?
If so, would this be a good way to remove oxygen after dry hop additions?
With this being the case, it wouldn't be a pressure fermentation. It would only be used as a way to remove oxygen after the lid is back on.
Hi, generally no. It is really best to use something made for the purpose. Could be dangerous otherwise also.
What pressure do you set it to, is it the same under primary fermentation as in the end of fermentation, for final carbonation level?
It varies depending on the type of yeast and the end result required. I cover this side of pressure fermentation in this video:- th-cam.com/video/W7WSFn6bNoA/w-d-xo.html
I have one question if somebody has time to explain to me. It is stressed that you should add oxygen to your beer to allow the yeast optimal condition. Using this setup your are flushing all oxygen. Do the yeast work without any oxygen too?
Hi Anders. Sure no problem. Oxygen is needed by your yeast for fermentation. However, once this is over oxygen becomes the enemy and will cause beer to go stale.
Just a quick heads-up, that BlowTie has been superseded by: www.kegland.com.au/duotight-blowtie-2-with-integrated-gauge-0-23psi.html
Of course I saw this 2 days after I ordered the old one
Yes I saw this. I am sceptical as to how precise this will be but lets see.
keg lands quality control is like 1 every 5000 tested , my fermzilla came with cross threaded butterfly valve nuts that are so loose the washers spin freely and uneven top cap thread screws that a thread kit with half mm variables tries to rethread on any setting , even if its not set and can move on its own , it will not align without attempting to cut some plastic ... kegland wont reply to email , even though i bought it from a registered wholesalers store. ( because kegland site declined my card 3 times over a system error during payment) . all in all regretful purchase
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have not heard of such issues from others and my experience is 100% positive so far. Sounds like you should get a replacement.
Great review David. Thanks for covering this product. We should also get you to review this one when you have a chance:
th-cam.com/video/i4YV9-xvsdA/w-d-xo.html
This new type has integrated gauge. This smaller gauge is not as accurate as the large gauge but some customers might find being more compact is preferable. Would be good to see what you think of this one. We only just started using this new model in Australia so I would be keen to get your feedback.
:)