Support and Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos- amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos- amzn.to/2b9oXYl Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVAC content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
my mental understanding of this trade field is much slower than most as im not used to it.. but the more and more i go over your videos, the better i am getting a clearer picture of what it means.. i take it slow... thanks for your vids... i share them with friends..
I'm a maintenance tech in a rental community and I do this stuff almost everyday and yet I find your videos incredibly interesting, thank you very much for sharing, you're an very good teacher 👍
So you're a maintenance tech how about that? I tell you what I did high performance sealed system job on the old Bert hole and come to find out I had a restriction and the cap tube of the old butthole, I fixed it though I don't want everybody worried about it
I really enjoyed this video. I think it has been the clearest explanation of compound gauges and the use of saturation temperatures for superheat and subcooling I have ever heard. I went to trade school several years ago and I do not remember anyone of the instructors explaining superheat and subcooling the way you have. Bravo.
I may have learned more from you than I did in HVAC school. real world applications are so nice. I appreciate you passing along all of this incredible knowledge to those of us who love this industry.(probably too much) lol
I just stumbled upon this video and have checked out your channel. Finally someone who can speak with knowledge and clarity! New subscriber here! THANK YOU!
I joined the field when digital was the way to go. Really appreciate the explanation on the old analog gauges. My question to you is do you have a video explaining a temperature and entropy chart?
Thank you... you are a very good teacher. Been out of the A/C Refrigeration game for more than 14 years and just getting back into it. Your video help me realize the simple things I thought I forgot. Hope that made sense. Again, thanks.
Many Thanks for sharing and teaching. I would suggest you prepare a video on how to use of the manifold gauge for checking: 1--static pressures;2-- Dynamic pressures;3--for vacuuming ; 4 --Charging by vapour ;5--Charging by liquid side for our viewers.Denis Lau(Mauritius)
I will be making more but for now here are some related to those numbers! Thanks for your Comment! 3 th-cam.com/video/nBCWYgCcnpE4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Bh54BSTTS7s5/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ncgLDYrvN6wI/w-d-xo.html encourage all of my viewers to check out the playlists which are filled with topics especially real time charging and checking the charge. Thanks again!
Yes, I encourage our viewers to check out all of the ACSERVICETECH Channel videos as I try to do 1 or 2 on a topic and move on. There is some good gold in the archives! Thanks Denis!
Thank you acservicetech. I am currently enrolled in a Hvac training program at my local community college. I plan on getting my Associate Science. So far I have found that your videos have been a major help. My teachers try to do their best in simplifying how the process works. But being in couple of classes with 20 plus people, theirs not much 1 on 1 teaching. As I watch your videos, you explain in great detail. Are there quick ways to remember certain things to help with memorization of how things are set up and figured out? Thank you for doing a great service.
Something like this may help! If there is not enough refrigerant in the evaporator then the refrigerant will be heated too much- high superheat. If there is not enough refrigerant in the condensor then the refrigerant will not be cooled enough- low subcooling
FINALLY I figured out a separate gauge-related problem thanks to this video: I use a compound gauge at work that measures vacuum (mmHg VAC) and positive pressure (psi and kPa). I understood that on the compound gauge 0 represents 1 atmosphere, but I noticed on the same gauge it goes from 0 psi to 30 psi max. I asked myself "Wait I thought 14.7 psi is equal to 1 atm? So how can 1 atm be 0 on the gauge, yet also have 14.7 psi on the same gauge?" I realized it MUST have some sort of conversion factor (like maybe each mark of psi on the gauge wasn't actually psi units), but I didn't understand what... Then here you came along and said in your video "...this is measured in psig..." and it clicked. "Maybe my gauge, DESPITE ONLY SAYING PSI, is actually measuring psi instead!" So I looked it up and found out psig is equal to psi + 14.7. That's literally it! So on the gauge when it says "16" it actually means "30.7 psi" so now it all makes total sense. It is all thanks to your video that I was able to figure this out. NO online resource mentions this about compound gauges, and even the seller just lists the units as mmHg VAC and psi, NOT psig! It makes sense now but I was just pulling out my hair.
I'm surprised you didn't find the answer by searching. If you do a few searches using PSIG and a combination of various ac terms, you should find a definition or explanation. Especially now, as internet resources have greatly increased the last few years.
That's very nice to know all that, but I have a question, what are numbers that we want to see on the gauges Low side and High side, I got the idea about reading the subcooling but I need to know the numbers on a r22 system thanks.
Ha ha, yeah I used to say that a lot as that was my visual queue as I looked everyone in the eye to see if they understood me. I am no longer dong that on newer videos. Bad habit!
I have a yellow jacket manifold with knob on the side. So its clockwise to close and counter clockwise to open.For some reason when i open the low pressure side, refrigerant are not being added. Any ideas?
Just had my unit serviced, tech never checked high side & told me low side of 32 means there's a blockage & I need a new air conditioner? Should I run...
so is the actual temp that you show on the screen is the temp at the low side service port? so that is the top number and the low side gage pressure temp is the bottom number and find the sum is the superheat?
I got a case here where I hooked up gauges to an outdoor unit and my low side was reading way too high for the evaporator coil--80 degrees F. Furthermore, the temp on my high side was tool _low_ as it's also 80 degrees F and, from what I've read, it's supposed to be around 30 degrees higher than the ambient air. Also, the temp on my liquid line was _warmer_ (88 degrees) than the condenser coil temps instead of cooler. What does that mean?
I get alot of younger guys ask how to get started in hvac, I respond by telling them to study to get their universal 608, can you do a video of your take how to get into the field
When charging a unit in vapor state, do you need to open the valve on the manifold all the way open or is it just as efficient to open it half way or less?
On a York 3.5 ton YCJF42S41S1A R-410A on 1 gauge it read 135 and on the other gauge read 300 is this ok? He did 1/2 a pound and these are the numbers afterwards.
Great video, this is all new to me and found your video packed full of useful information, where I likely watched it 10 times already. One item I seemed to have missed in your explanation of calculating the Super Heat temperature was how you got the Actual Temp, so I'm confused on where you got the 50DegF value. Is that the interior of the house temp or somewhere else and how to best take that measurement?
Actual temp was on the vapor large line. Check out "acservicetech superheat playlist" and acservicetech subcooling playlist" These will break down each step in the process of refrigerant checking and charging, thanks rednroll1!
Here is one on freon R22. There are others on R410A- th-cam.com/video/Bh54BSTTS7s/w-d-xo.html - check out the playlists- subcooling --- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxTcAtR_53GoY8huBcSOt0a.html -- superheat -- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Hello, I am barely getting in to this trade and my question is: If you use those gauges to read pressures on a R-22 system and later on you need to take some readings from R-410A system can you use the same gauges to take the readings? Do you perform a vacuum on the same gauges to decontaminate them? or do you recommend having a separate pair of gauges for each type of refrigerant? Thanks
If you are starting out, you can blow them out with nitrogen. A vacuum won't pull the oil out of the hoses. You can also hang the hoses straight down so the oil drains out into a container, thanks
Hey service tech. Thanks for this information. I got into it because I bought a new unit 3 years ago and just had to fork out 500$ to have it charged because of a leak in the tubing that connected to the compressor. Larger of the tubes. Apparently not warrantied. I'll be watching all the videos. Have already bought R410A, gauges, and hoses. Have brand new American Standard. Can you just point me in the right direction to begin? Where should I concentrate? Again, thanks for sharing this with people.
Thanks John, make sure you are epa 608 certified type 2 before handling refrigerants. This could possibly be done at a local technical high school where they may have adult cert testing at night if you don't have this already. With that being said, check out the recovery playlist- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxfgT_HPLImCXkJdhMnUtFo.html -- and then the brazing with nitrogen playlist first, thanks- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxi-kOFQ5FWDIUAE8ngzmZy.html
They will be checked with the superheat process since they have a capillary tube metering device if you have a brazed in service port. Most do not have ports but you can check to see if you have an 18-21 degree temp difference between the return and supply after ten minutes of run time, thanks- superheat playlist- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
acservicetech sir can I ask again about the sensor bord? that the 1st service tech.I hire said diagnose on and off after 5-8 min not yet meet the cool temp inside it already resting does it mean it has a problem? or the remote is just in automatic like the other 2nd service tech I hire to check my split type he just said low refrigerant and I need to pay 6500 pH pesos is that fair?
When you say “make sure it’s above 32 degrees on vapor side”. Are you saying that regardless of all other factors, as long as the vapor side is above 32 you’re good? So on a hot 110 degree day the center of your evap should only be about 33 or so?
Firstly it will depend on the metering device. A piston will fluctuate much more depending on the outdoor temp and indoor wet bulb. When it is 110 degrees outside, the load in the building will likely be high so the sat temp will be higher maybe 40-50 degrees depending on the indoor wet bulb. I just mean, techs may be trying to check the charge when the outdoor temp is low and the indoor load is low or the indoor air is too low and the sat temp in those situations will be low. Once they are low like that frost will accumulate on the coil so you would need to determine what the problem is, thanks!
Please clarify at 1:00 when you say Zero gauge, that means equalized with the local pressure and hence altitude of your work. You then say absolute, where that would be 14.7 lb/in^^2 only at mean sea level. This could make a difference if you are in Colorado, for example. Do you normalize the gauges before attaching to the unit?
hi. thank you so much for video. i have question. you said saturated temp have to be above 32 degree before charge. the 32 degree is only for r22 and other refrigerant have other specific temp? or all refrigerant have to be above 32. thanks a lot agian
If it was below 32 degree saturated temp then either it is low on refrigerant, liquid line restriction or low airflow. It is for all refrigerants used for air conditioning, thanks
can you do a video on how to clean your gauges after having dye in them? I would think just pull a vacuum on them but not sure if it would get the dye out of the hoses as well. Thanks in advance
Is it possible to use the gauges while the system is off? I had a tech hook these up on my unit...while it was off. Then tell me it was ok because the low side should be reading 120. ??
Wow no, you can't tell anything with the system off. You will get the same pressure reading as long as there is at least some liquid refrigerant in the system but you cannot tell how much, thanks
Great job! I'm learning still and you've helped me a lot. Wanted to ask you , I need to add 10Lbs of R-22 because I replaced a compressor and need to fill it up. On the gauge where to I stop at ?
Thanks for the Comment! You need an electronic scale and break the 500 micron vacuum with the refrigerant. Here is a video on the initial weigh in into the liquid side with the system off. th-cam.com/video/ncgLDYrvN6wh/w-d-xo.htmlere is another video on the vacuumth-cam.com/video/nBCWYgCcnpE/w-d-xo.html
I am in McAllen, TX. Our Summer temps are over 110o. Yesterday, a tenant complaint her AC was not cooling. When the AC man checked the freon levels, it was -on the high red gauge was- 250 PSI. It was super overcharged! He decreased the freon level to the right #. For 15 yrs., a trusty AC man has fixed my AC units and on 3/1/208, he changed an evaporator part and motor that were damaged and checked freon levels. I do not think he overcharged it at that time and nobody else has done anything to the unit- so I think- unless tenant called somebody to charge the unit. My question is: Is there another way the unit could overcharge itself? Thank You in advance for your reply !
Hola ACservicetech ! What should be the right reading on the red gauge. The service an who came Saturday said that 250 was too high. Was he wrong? This is a R22 3Ton unit.
I find your videos fantastic... one question... I took a 1 ton window unit, silver sodiered ports onto the low and high side and recharged... I am using a water cooled condensor, I am waiting for a anther guage set to arrive but my cool air is at 40.82F but my water cooled condensor is reading 110F WITH An infra red camera, which I beleave should be the actual gas temperature on the high side.. is it possible that my water cooled unit is too small?? I will know better when my guages come in.. but my water in is 68F and out is 72 (using a large vessel which will obviously not cool fast enough.. ( may go Geothermal ), this is a project..
@@acservicetechchannel right on thanks. Had one exactly like that earlier today. All checked out good. They are smokers and had some windows opened and were wondering why it wasn't getting as cool in there house here in Texas smh
Question: I was diagnosing a no cooling call on my AC which is a R22 system, my low side was 97 and high side was 98 both were reading equal pressure. i unhooked my gauges and re attached them after an hour and i was getting 89/91 on low and high both equalized. I suspect it is compressor could it be metering device or is it low on charge?
It sounds like maybe the outdoor fan was running but the compressor was not running. Did you take an amp draw safely, or listen for the refrigerant moving in the pipe? The reason the pressures may have been different an hour later may just have been the outside and inside temps.
Thanks for a great instructive video! Do you havea video explaining the charging procedure for a 1hp, 9000 Btu/hr, R22 York split unit air con system? I'm not sure but I believe it dont have a txv.. Can I check charge reading the low side pressure only? I'm in SEA and no prohibitive legislation here.
Feel free to check out my superheat charging playlist. There you will find the superheat chart to find target superheat for systems without txvs as well charging procedures for systems without txv's Thanks!--th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Thanks for the good video and explain it. My R22 A/C without turn on shows Blue side 125psi/72F degree and Red side zero psi. What is this mean? Do I have to fill R22 gas or have to check some outside pipe hole firstly ?
That wouldn't make much sense if you have pressure on one side and not the other. You may want to check the depressor on the end of your hose or the valve core inside the port that you are hooking into, thanks
Thanks for the reply quickly, I need to tell more what I have a problem situation. My manifold tool looks good measuring(Red side 150psi) with the other A/C side for 1'st floor, but only this A/C for 2'nd floor has Red side zero psi. So I think there is no problem on the end of hose or the value core inside the port that I am hooking into. Still I am confusing what is mean Red side zero psi if not hose/value port problem.
I could see the blue side hooked to the large vapor line being zero and the red high side connected to the small liquid line reading pressure. That would mean severely low on refrigerant but you usually don't see the opposite of that, thanks Moon!
you are correct, I measured it again today. Blue side is 125psi(73F degree) and Red side is 130psi(75F degree) at power turn off mode. Is this mean that I need to fill just R22 gas ? Sorry to bother you and thanks for your advise me in advance.
Very informative and easy to understand. Also, not that it's a deal breaker, but I would feel more confident, that if instead of pointing at the gauges with a screwdriver, that you were instead pointing with a lit cigarette. Just sayin'
Great Question! Target subcooling is found on the rating plate of the outdoor unit. Target superheat is found by the outdoor temp and the indoor wet bulb temp found on the superheat chart. Subcooling is the temp decrease in liquid form at the outdoor unit and superheat is the temp increase in vapor form at the evap coil. Here are some videos that will help th-cam.com/video/qqLwE7Kbyawh/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/bIL9BrKCujch/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/q-G7FLlzhAg/w-d-xo.html
Hi service tech It seems like my system is low on freon. A company came out found a leak on the shcrader valve filled it and put a cap on it. I didn't know that's what he did until I came home from work. It was ok for a few days and then it would barely cool. I bought a leak detector and went to the cap and it started going off so I turned the cap half way with pliers and he defector stop beeping. I bought a set of gauges but I don't have the green numbers like you have. How else could I tell if low on freon? I took photos of the gauges while hooked if you would like to see them. Low side 40 psig and high side 175 psig. Outside temp 79 indoor temp 74 unit running for 35 minutes
Oh yeah 40 psi is very low if it is r22 and very very low if it is r410a. EPA mandates anyone that works with refrigerant to be epa 608 certified before working with refrigerants. In this case type 2 608 so I would advise to call in a service tech if you are in a rush and don't have time to get certified, thanks and sorry to hear!
Hey A.c. do you have a video on how to properly read a R22 tank to determine if it actually contains R22 or not ? I've never had to work with R22 here in Canada and Im Totally unfamiliar with it except that I k is that you charge in vapor
Hey Sean, here are some videos that you may be interested in on the topic- th-cam.com/video/yBqDkbuyuIo/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/kMuCezmdPBM/w-d-xo.html --- th-cam.com/video/eKAGXek-KhM/w-d-xo.html
If you still have the plastic on the valve, you could sell that on ebay or locally. Yes, surprisingly enough some people are still trying to keep those r12 units alive.
I dont suppose you have record or recall the outdoor temp that day? I'm pretty green yet, and trying to learn as I've been taught be old school techs to charge by sat temp of the gauges themselves. On R22, low side should be (obviously above freezing) 35-45deg (34-37 txv) depending on the load, and 10-30 above ambient, depending on load. Polar-opposite R22 examples; Example 1: 60 deg day, 70 deg indoor load. Low side sat temps will be low 34-38 and head will be 10-15 above ambient (125 -145psi). Example 2: 95 deg day 85 deg indoor load (breakdown). Low side will be high 40-45 deg and head will be 20-30 (240-275psi) above ambient. In either example a TXV should maintain a 34 sat temp on the indoor. With 410, hi side sat temps are about half due to higher seer. Head temps wont be as much above ambient, more like 15-20. Each example was with mech. sound sys. and adequate airflow. Anything colder than 60 deg you wrap the coil and attempt to get head pressure above 175 for 22 and 275 for 410 then check/charge based on your low side sat temps but dont charge above 34 deg. I havent a clue how I would check/add charge on a txv system if I was forced to wrap the unit. The company I'm with now, I'm the only tech and am thrown to the wolves, not alot of time to ask questions and learn. Do have los of phone sex with the lead tech when IDKWTFID. But alot of it is blind charging and foolish when it doesnt take long to figure SC/SH. Ive only been in the trade 2 yrs (on my own for 8 mo). I was taught by 4 techs that are 35-50 y/o and been in the trade for 25+ yrs. Really, despite adding charge on a txv on a cold day, the above methods do work (with common sense). My lead tech for the company I work for now (who some might say is laterally a damn genius) can tell if a system is adequately charged just by listening to the liquid line at the evap and by feeling how cold the vapor line is at the cond. He verifies with gauges but is pretty damn close guess every time. I cant argue with someone who is lead tech with 27yrs, that why I'm hear with this long winded rambling tirade :)
Ha ha fun, It really is not that complicated when you know subcooling and superheat. All the rest are generalities and things you notice when a system is working correctly like the 20 and 30 degree above ambient. What we are really talking about is how big is the sat state in the coil and how much superheat do we have and how much subcooling do we have after the sat state. For comfort cooling, you really just need subcooling for txv's and like you said, make sure the low side is not freezing. For pistons, find the target superheat and set it to the correct superheat on the low side. I always cringe when people try to set the charge without superheat on a piston system as on some cooler days, the system ends up putting liquid into the compressor if it is even a little overcharged. So you know, we don't wrap the sides of the unit on a 60 degree day. That would mess the sat states up in the outdoor unit. We restrict the airflow at the top to get to those pressures you were speaking about on the high side. Also keep in mind the the inside house temp must be raised so the indoor coil has some heat to absorb as the house temp will fall quickly and the low side gauge may approach or get below freezing. Check this playlist out. There are superheat, subcooling, possible pressures, sat temps, and troubleshooting in there- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxZI3-xx03Bttxe3xCqUD87.html
Hi, I like the way you instruct hvac, congratulations!. Question, I have a package unit cool water heat pump 2 ton unit in my apartment, Does the pressures and temperatures are the same as residential split units. My unit is R 410a I know R22 are different pressures.Ozzha in Miami Fl.
The biggest difference is the condenser in cooling mode or the evap in heating mode being a refrigerant to water heat exchanger. Depending on which system you have, if it is geothermal or chiller and the gallon per minute flow, temp, and size piping, the condenser pressures in cooling mode would likely be less than a traditional split system with refrigerant rejecting heat into the air. You have to take that type of system, gpm, water temp, and size piping, into consideration from a troubleshooting standpoint but the vapor pressures in cooling mode will be very similar. The manufacturer would state on the rating plate or the inside of the door, how they would like you to charge the unit taking these things into consideration. Thanks for the Comment!
If the vapor side is low, how do you know if the refrigerant is low or if there is a leak. If there is a leak, do you use the reading on the vapor side to determine the leak is at the evaporator? How do you know the leak is not in the line between the evaporator and the condenser?
The pressures will be low on the low and high side of the gauges if there is a leak while the system is running. If the system is off then you would not know if a system had 6 oz or 12 lb because it works just like propane does where the liquid boils and the vapor is what applies the pressure. Take a look at this playlist to learn more about how it all works ---- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwbAc7K7DsjuasaDVfJeGSe.html ----- Here is another on finding a refrigerant leak ----- th-cam.com/video/2Be_sG-HQTQ/w-d-xo.html
Well that really depends on the efficiency of the heat rejection such as the seer rating. The higher the seer rating, the lower the head pressure. If the fins are dirty, bushes are too close, seer rating is low or salt water is corroding the fins then the head pressure will be high. That is where you see you differences. The compression ratio head pressure divided by vapor pressure will really determine efficiency. Inside temps are always within 15 degrees, the coil is in good shape and the txv controls the superheat. A hot day can drive up the outdoor pressure. I hope that helps! Thanks for the question!
Support and Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos- amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o
Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos- amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.
Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVAC content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
my mental understanding of this trade field is much slower than most as im not used to it.. but the more and more i go over your videos, the better i am getting a clearer picture of what it means.. i take it slow... thanks for your vids... i share them with friends..
I'm a maintenance tech in a rental community and I do this stuff almost everyday and yet I find your videos incredibly interesting, thank you very much for sharing, you're an very good teacher 👍
Thank you Argenis Zurita!
So you're a maintenance tech how about that? I tell you what I did high performance sealed system job on the old Bert hole and come to find out I had a restriction and the cap tube of the old butthole, I fixed it though I don't want everybody worried about it
I really enjoyed this video. I think it has been the clearest explanation of compound gauges and the use of saturation temperatures for superheat and subcooling I have ever heard. I went to trade school several years ago and I do not remember anyone of the instructors explaining superheat and subcooling the way you have. Bravo.
I am just starting out as an AC tech, thank you for these videos, they are very informational.
The born of our channel and business was reliably based on your great tutorials, Thanks for your absolute kindness!🙂❤
I may have learned more from you than I did in HVAC school. real world applications are so nice. I appreciate you passing along all of this incredible knowledge to those of us who love this industry.(probably too much) lol
I am really glad to hear that you appreciate the videos, thank you for taking the time to write the comment!
I just stumbled upon this video and have checked out your channel. Finally someone who can speak with knowledge and clarity! New subscriber here! THANK YOU!
Thanks a lot David! The website is acservicetech.com
Finally someone freaking explained the marks especially the mid marks. Thanks!
I joined the field when digital was the way to go. Really appreciate the explanation on the old analog gauges. My question to you is do you have a video explaining a temperature and entropy chart?
Thank you for the knowledge on your channel. I'm about to start residential HVAC and need to get more prepared.
Best of luck!
Thank you... you are a very good teacher. Been out of the A/C Refrigeration game for more than 14 years and just getting back into it. Your video help me realize the simple things I thought I forgot. Hope that made sense. Again, thanks.
Absolutely, thanks for letting me know!
Many Thanks for sharing and teaching.
I would suggest you prepare a video on how to use of the manifold gauge for checking: 1--static pressures;2-- Dynamic pressures;3--for vacuuming ; 4 --Charging by vapour ;5--Charging by liquid side for our viewers.Denis Lau(Mauritius)
I will be making more but for now here are some related to those numbers! Thanks for your Comment! 3 th-cam.com/video/nBCWYgCcnpE4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Bh54BSTTS7s5/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ncgLDYrvN6wI/w-d-xo.html encourage all of my viewers to check out the playlists which are filled with topics especially real time charging and checking the charge. Thanks again!
Many Thanks for your rapid response.I hope that our viewers will have the chance to watch these videos.
Best Regards.
Denis Lau
Yes, I encourage our viewers to check out all of the ACSERVICETECH Channel videos as I try to do 1 or 2 on a topic and move on. There is some good gold in the archives! Thanks Denis!
Thanks for your teaching. I really like it; it is more than school.
That is very kind of you. Thank you for your Comment!
Excellent series from AC service Tech.
Thank you acservicetech. I am currently enrolled in a Hvac training program at my local community college. I plan on getting my Associate Science. So far I have found that your videos have been a major help. My teachers try to do their best in simplifying how the process works. But being in couple of classes with 20 plus people, theirs not much 1 on 1 teaching. As I watch your videos, you explain in great detail. Are there quick ways to remember certain things to help with memorization of how things are set up and figured out? Thank you for doing a great service.
Something like this may help!
If there is not enough refrigerant in the evaporator then the refrigerant will be heated too much- high superheat.
If there is not enough refrigerant in the condensor then the refrigerant will not be cooled enough- low subcooling
Are you reading the gauges with unit running or not running?
Hi, appreciate the video, very concise and to the point. Will this show a refrigerant charge in a system that isn’t running? Thanks
you are a good teacher ,very nicely explained
Thanks Sithuruwan!
FINALLY I figured out a separate gauge-related problem thanks to this video:
I use a compound gauge at work that measures vacuum (mmHg VAC) and positive pressure (psi and kPa).
I understood that on the compound gauge 0 represents 1 atmosphere, but I noticed on the same gauge it goes from 0 psi to 30 psi max. I asked myself "Wait I thought 14.7 psi is equal to 1 atm? So how can 1 atm be 0 on the gauge, yet also have 14.7 psi on the same gauge?"
I realized it MUST have some sort of conversion factor (like maybe each mark of psi on the gauge wasn't actually psi units), but I didn't understand what...
Then here you came along and said in your video "...this is measured in psig..." and it clicked. "Maybe my gauge, DESPITE ONLY SAYING PSI, is actually measuring psi instead!"
So I looked it up and found out psig is equal to psi + 14.7. That's literally it!
So on the gauge when it says "16" it actually means "30.7 psi" so now it all makes total sense.
It is all thanks to your video that I was able to figure this out. NO online resource mentions this about compound gauges, and even the seller just lists the units as mmHg VAC and psi, NOT psig!
It makes sense now but I was just pulling out my hair.
I'm surprised you didn't find the answer by searching. If you do a few searches using PSIG and a combination of various ac terms, you should find a definition or explanation. Especially now, as internet resources have greatly increased the last few years.
Awesome teaching
Glad you think so!
Is it pretty much a correct general statement to say that if you don't use the R134a couplers, then you can attach those hoses to a R12 system?
So what would be the correct reading on the gauges with a 410a Compressor model zp38k5e-tf5-130?
your videos help tremendously !
Thank you 🙏, I’ve learned so much through your videos.
I am learning and you teaching
Excellent
Thanks bro explanation was easy .
Glad you liked it
That's very nice to know all that, but I have a question, what are numbers that we want to see on the gauges Low side and High side, I got the idea about reading the subcooling but I need to know the numbers on a r22 system thanks.
Where did the 72 degrees come from? If 156#=84.5degrees in the coil how do u get the actual temp. At the service port?
thank you for the video it was really helpful and easy to understand the process appreciate it
Great to Hear Michael Ohara!
Great video & very informative, easy to follow.
I also took a shot every time you said "mmkay"
Ha ha, yeah I used to say that a lot as that was my visual queue as I looked everyone in the eye to see if they understood me. I am no longer dong that on newer videos. Bad habit!
God bless you my friend. Very bueno video.
May the Lord Bless you too Fortino!
I have a yellow jacket manifold with knob on the side. So its clockwise to close and counter clockwise to open.For some reason when i open the low pressure side, refrigerant are not being added. Any ideas?
Just had my unit serviced, tech never checked high side & told me low side of 32 means there's a blockage & I need a new air conditioner? Should I run...
if I want to check the pressure in winter time. what's gonna be different ? do you have a video about that?
How does the gauge manage to measure pressure in the center of coil when it's connected far from that?
so is the actual temp that you show on the screen is the temp at the low side service port? so that is the top number and the low side gage pressure temp is the bottom number and find the sum is the superheat?
I got a case here where I hooked up gauges to an outdoor unit and my low side was reading way too high for the evaporator coil--80 degrees F. Furthermore, the temp on my high side was tool _low_ as it's also 80 degrees F and, from what I've read, it's supposed to be around 30 degrees higher than the ambient air. Also, the temp on my liquid line was _warmer_ (88 degrees) than the condenser coil temps instead of cooler. What does that mean?
Do you recommend pulling a vacuum on the manifold prior to hooking it up and checking for pressure?
Do you have any videos on how to use a 4 port gauge manifold. I've looked all over TH-cam but can't seem to find any. Thanks for your help!
I get alot of younger guys ask how to get started in hvac, I respond by telling them to study to get their universal 608, can you do a video of your take how to get into the field
That sounds like a good video, good idea
When charging a unit in vapor state, do you need to open the valve on the manifold all the way open or is it just as efficient to open it half way or less?
On a York 3.5 ton YCJF42S41S1A R-410A on 1 gauge it read 135 and on the other gauge read 300 is this ok? He did 1/2 a pound and these are the numbers afterwards.
Should you avoid using the same manifold and hoses set on r22 and r134a systems? Or there is a cleaning procedure? Thanks
Purge your manifold and hoses with dry nitrogen
Great video, this is all new to me and found your video packed full of
useful information, where I likely watched it 10 times already. One
item I seemed to have missed in your explanation of calculating the
Super Heat temperature was how you got the Actual Temp, so I'm confused
on where you got the 50DegF value. Is that the interior of the house
temp or somewhere else and how to best take that measurement?
Actual temp was on the vapor large line. Check out "acservicetech superheat playlist" and acservicetech subcooling playlist" These will break down each step in the process of refrigerant checking and charging, thanks rednroll1!
Very good video
thanks you tube team..good help best like you tube team..love love love.
No problem, I am glad to help!
great video learnt a lot once again
Glad to hear!
thanks for this class.You are a great teacher!!!!!!
.
I am glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks man for such as good education about your videos it really help a lot keep going, you really teaching all you knowledge. thank you
Thanks a lot Luis!
Master we have the same video tagalog version, more power in your channel
Do you have a video on how to actually add the freon using the gauge set to monitor the amount put in?
Here is one on freon R22. There are others on R410A- th-cam.com/video/Bh54BSTTS7s/w-d-xo.html - check out the playlists- subcooling --- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxTcAtR_53GoY8huBcSOt0a.html -- superheat -- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Hello, I am barely getting in to this trade and my question is: If you use those gauges to read pressures on a R-22 system and later on you need to take some readings from R-410A system can you use the same gauges to take the readings? Do you perform a vacuum on the same gauges to decontaminate them? or do you recommend having a separate pair of gauges for each type of refrigerant? Thanks
If you are starting out, you can blow them out with nitrogen. A vacuum won't pull the oil out of the hoses. You can also hang the hoses straight down so the oil drains out into a container, thanks
Had a problem in my ref
In R600a it needs 62g
But I want to how to charge R600a in psi
62g= haw many grams psi?
Hey service tech. Thanks for this information. I got into it because I bought a new unit 3 years ago and just had to fork out 500$ to have it charged because of a leak in the tubing that connected to the compressor. Larger of the tubes. Apparently not warrantied. I'll be watching all the videos. Have already bought R410A, gauges, and hoses. Have brand new American Standard. Can you just point me in the right direction to begin? Where should I concentrate? Again, thanks for sharing this with people.
Thanks John, make sure you are epa 608 certified type 2 before handling refrigerants. This could possibly be done at a local technical high school where they may have adult cert testing at night if you don't have this already. With that being said, check out the recovery playlist- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxfgT_HPLImCXkJdhMnUtFo.html -- and then the brazing with nitrogen playlist first, thanks- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxi-kOFQ5FWDIUAE8ngzmZy.html
Will do. Appreciate the help.
Hello. Great video. Was the system running during this procedure?
Yes, the mic I used to use canceled out background noise, thanks
This is good 👍
can I ask if refrigerant for window type and split type are the same?
They will be checked with the superheat process since they have a capillary tube metering device if you have a brazed in service port. Most do not have ports but you can check to see if you have an 18-21 degree temp difference between the return and supply after ten minutes of run time, thanks- superheat playlist- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
acservicetech sir can I ask again about the sensor bord? that the 1st service tech.I hire said diagnose on and off after 5-8 min not yet meet the cool temp inside it already resting does it mean it has a problem? or the remote is just in automatic like the other 2nd service tech I hire to check my split type he just said low refrigerant and I need to pay 6500 pH pesos is that fair?
When you say “make sure it’s above 32 degrees on vapor side”. Are you saying that regardless of all other factors, as long as the vapor side is above 32 you’re good? So on a hot 110 degree day the center of your evap should only be about 33 or so?
Firstly it will depend on the metering device. A piston will fluctuate much more depending on the outdoor temp and indoor wet bulb. When it is 110 degrees outside, the load in the building will likely be high so the sat temp will be higher maybe 40-50 degrees depending on the indoor wet bulb. I just mean, techs may be trying to check the charge when the outdoor temp is low and the indoor load is low or the indoor air is too low and the sat temp in those situations will be low. Once they are low like that frost will accumulate on the coil so you would need to determine what the problem is, thanks!
Thanks amigo you safe my life 😊good video I learned a lot.
Thanks Carlos!
Great video thanks
Excellent Video ! Thank You!
Thank you very much!
Great video very useful
Thanks Joel!
Hi, Thank you for your teaching talents and sharing it with us.
Your welcome and thanks for the Comment!
Please clarify at 1:00 when you say Zero gauge, that means equalized with the local pressure and hence altitude of your work. You then say absolute, where that would be 14.7 lb/in^^2 only at mean sea level. This could make a difference if you are in Colorado, for example. Do you normalize the gauges before attaching to the unit?
Yes, make sure that the gauge set reads 0 PSIG before attaching to any unit, thanks
Thank you Sir. Great series.
hi. thank you so much for video. i have question. you said saturated temp have to be above 32 degree before charge. the 32 degree is only for r22 and other refrigerant have other specific temp? or all refrigerant have to be above 32. thanks a lot agian
If it was below 32 degree saturated temp then either it is low on refrigerant, liquid line restriction or low airflow. It is for all refrigerants used for air conditioning, thanks
Do you check the pressure when the unit is on or off?
To check the refrigerant charge level, it is while the unit is running. My old mic canceled out background noise, thanks
can you do a video on how to clean your gauges after having dye in them? I would think just pull a vacuum on them but not sure if it would get the dye out of the hoses as well. Thanks in advance
Not much you are going to do except try to blow some out with nitrogen. A vacuum won't remove it, thanks Chris!
Is it possible to use the gauges while the system is off? I had a tech hook these up on my unit...while it was off. Then tell me it was ok because the low side should be reading 120. ??
Wow no, you can't tell anything with the system off. You will get the same pressure reading as long as there is at least some liquid refrigerant in the system but you cannot tell how much, thanks
Great job! I'm learning still and you've helped me a lot. Wanted to ask you , I need to add 10Lbs of R-22 because I replaced a compressor and need to fill it up. On the gauge where to I stop at ?
Thanks for the Comment! You need an electronic scale and break the 500 micron vacuum with the refrigerant. Here is a video on the initial weigh in into the liquid side with the system off. th-cam.com/video/ncgLDYrvN6wh/w-d-xo.htmlere is another video on the vacuumth-cam.com/video/nBCWYgCcnpE/w-d-xo.html
so this video is for what type of ambient temperature? like 65 or above?
That is correct, thanks Por Yang!
Thank You for the AC videos, please do more for beginners.
And if possible please fix the volume. It seems to record low and is hard to hear.
Carl, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see. Also I now have a better mic for newer videos, thanks!
I am in McAllen, TX. Our Summer temps are over 110o. Yesterday, a tenant complaint her AC was not cooling. When the AC man checked the freon levels, it was -on the high red gauge was- 250 PSI. It was super overcharged! He decreased the freon level to the right #. For 15 yrs., a trusty AC man has fixed my AC units and on 3/1/208, he changed an evaporator part and motor that were damaged and checked freon levels. I do not think he overcharged it at that time and nobody else has done anything to the unit- so I think- unless tenant called somebody to charge the unit. My question is: Is there another way the unit could overcharge itself? Thank You in advance for your reply !
No, that couldn't happen, thanks
Hola ACservicetech ! What should be the right reading on the red gauge. The service an who came Saturday said that 250 was too high. Was he wrong? This is a R22 3Ton unit.
abegail
Hey , Where did you get the 72 ? To minus the high pressure to . Thats where im lost at
The 72 was the actual temp on the liquid line. Look up "acservicetech subcooling playlist" thanks!
Is this tutorial applicable to automotive A/C systems?
No do to the car compressor running at various speeds depending on the car rpm, thanks!
I find your videos fantastic... one question... I took a 1 ton window unit, silver sodiered ports onto the low and high side and recharged... I am using a water cooled condensor, I am waiting for a anther guage set to arrive but my cool air is at 40.82F but my water cooled condensor is reading 110F WITH An infra red camera, which I beleave should be the actual gas temperature on the high side.. is it possible that my water cooled unit is too small?? I will know better when my guages come in.. but my water in is 68F and out is 72 (using a large vessel which will obviously not cool fast enough.. ( may go Geothermal ), this is a project..
90-110 is the normal saturated temp on the high side under normal operating conditions, thanks
If i wanted to check my temps for r410a would I just head straight to the r410a part of the gauge and my sat state
Yes that i correct and then check superheat or subcooling as needed, thanks
so nice video, it's great, many thanks
Thanks Akeel Zarkany!
What was the ambient temperature outside at the time?
I believe it was low, around 75 to 80 degrees F, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel right on thanks. Had one exactly like that earlier today. All checked out good. They are smokers and had some windows opened and were wondering why it wasn't getting as cool in there house here in Texas smh
Ha ha nice, yup it happens!
Question: I was diagnosing a no cooling call on my AC which is a R22 system, my low side was 97 and high side was 98 both were reading equal pressure. i unhooked my gauges and re attached them after an hour and i was getting 89/91 on low and high both equalized. I suspect it is compressor could it be metering device or is it low on charge?
It sounds like maybe the outdoor fan was running but the compressor was not running. Did you take an amp draw safely, or listen for the refrigerant moving in the pipe? The reason the pressures may have been different an hour later may just have been the outside and inside temps.
I like knowledge on my biscuits, had a good old sealed system job for the old Bert hole
Thanks for a great instructive video!
Do you havea video explaining the charging procedure for a 1hp, 9000 Btu/hr, R22 York split unit air con system? I'm not sure but I believe it dont have a txv.. Can I check charge reading the low side pressure only? I'm in SEA and no prohibitive legislation here.
Feel free to check out my superheat charging playlist. There you will find the superheat chart to find target superheat for systems without txvs as well charging procedures for systems without txv's Thanks!--th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwGvhU1rseXQLJ-XBjBZMMk.html
Thanks for the good video and explain it. My R22 A/C without turn on shows Blue side 125psi/72F degree and Red side zero psi. What is this mean? Do I have to fill R22 gas or have to check some outside pipe hole firstly ?
That wouldn't make much sense if you have pressure on one side and not the other. You may want to check the depressor on the end of your hose or the valve core inside the port that you are hooking into, thanks
Thanks for the reply quickly, I need to tell more what I have a problem situation. My manifold tool looks good measuring(Red side 150psi) with the other A/C side for 1'st floor, but only this A/C for 2'nd floor has Red side zero psi. So I think there is no problem on the end of hose or the value core inside the port that I am hooking into. Still I am confusing what is mean Red side zero psi if not hose/value port problem.
I could see the blue side hooked to the large vapor line being zero and the red high side connected to the small liquid line reading pressure. That would mean severely low on refrigerant but you usually don't see the opposite of that, thanks Moon!
you are correct, I measured it again today. Blue side is 125psi(73F degree) and Red side is 130psi(75F degree) at power turn off mode. Is this mean that I need to fill just R22 gas ? Sorry to bother you and thanks for your advise me in advance.
Very informative and easy to understand. Also, not that it's a deal breaker, but I would feel more confident, that if instead of pointing at the gauges with a screwdriver, that you were instead pointing with a lit cigarette. Just sayin'
Ha, thanks Keith, nice!
Great job
Thank you!
What is the target sub cooling? Is it to match the superheat?
Great Question! Target subcooling is found on the rating plate of the outdoor unit. Target superheat is found by the outdoor temp and the indoor wet bulb temp found on the superheat chart. Subcooling is the temp decrease in liquid form at the outdoor unit and superheat is the temp increase in vapor form at the evap coil. Here are some videos that will help th-cam.com/video/qqLwE7Kbyawh/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/bIL9BrKCujch/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/q-G7FLlzhAg/w-d-xo.html
Hi service tech It seems like my system is low on freon. A company came out found a leak on the shcrader valve filled it and put a cap on it. I didn't know that's what he did until I came home from work. It was ok for a few days and then it would barely cool. I bought a leak detector and went to the cap and it started going off so I turned the cap half way with pliers and he defector stop beeping. I bought a set of gauges but I don't have the green numbers like you have. How else could I tell if low on freon? I took photos of the gauges while hooked if you would like to see them. Low side 40 psig and high side 175 psig. Outside temp 79 indoor temp 74 unit running for 35 minutes
Oh yeah 40 psi is very low if it is r22 and very very low if it is r410a. EPA mandates anyone that works with refrigerant to be epa 608 certified before working with refrigerants. In this case type 2 608 so I would advise to call in a service tech if you are in a rush and don't have time to get certified, thanks and sorry to hear!
Thanks for the info.
No problem, glad to help!
Hey A.c. do you have a video on how to properly read a R22 tank to determine if it actually contains R22 or not ? I've never had to work with R22 here in Canada and Im Totally unfamiliar with it except that I k is that you charge in vapor
Hey Sean, here are some videos that you may be interested in on the topic- th-cam.com/video/yBqDkbuyuIo/w-d-xo.html -- th-cam.com/video/kMuCezmdPBM/w-d-xo.html --- th-cam.com/video/eKAGXek-KhM/w-d-xo.html
what would cause the high side gauge to start out normal and then rise all the way?
That would be an inability to reject heat at the outdoor unit, thanks
is any thing using r-12 anymore?i have a full 30lb canistor in my garage.
If you still have the plastic on the valve, you could sell that on ebay or locally. Yes, surprisingly enough some people are still trying to keep those r12 units alive.
I dont suppose you have record or recall the outdoor temp that day?
I'm pretty green yet, and trying to learn as I've been taught be old school techs to charge by sat temp of the gauges themselves. On R22, low side should be (obviously above freezing) 35-45deg (34-37 txv) depending on the load, and 10-30 above ambient, depending on load.
Polar-opposite R22 examples;
Example 1: 60 deg day, 70 deg indoor load. Low side sat temps will be low 34-38 and head will be 10-15 above ambient (125 -145psi).
Example 2: 95 deg day 85 deg indoor load (breakdown). Low side will be high 40-45 deg and head will be 20-30 (240-275psi) above ambient.
In either example a TXV should maintain a 34 sat temp on the indoor.
With 410, hi side sat temps are about half due to higher seer. Head temps wont be as much above ambient, more like 15-20. Each example was with mech. sound sys. and adequate airflow. Anything colder than 60 deg you wrap the coil and attempt to get head pressure above 175 for 22 and 275 for 410 then check/charge based on your low side sat temps but dont charge above 34 deg. I havent a clue how I would check/add charge on a txv system if I was forced to wrap the unit.
The company I'm with now, I'm the only tech and am thrown to the wolves, not alot of time to ask questions and learn. Do have los of phone sex with the lead tech when IDKWTFID. But alot of it is blind charging and foolish when it doesnt take long to figure SC/SH. Ive only been in the trade 2 yrs (on my own for 8 mo). I was taught by 4 techs that are 35-50 y/o and been in the trade for 25+ yrs. Really, despite adding charge on a txv on a cold day, the above methods do work (with common sense).
My lead tech for the company I work for now (who some might say is laterally a damn genius) can tell if a system is adequately charged just by listening to the liquid line at the evap and by feeling how cold the vapor line is at the cond. He verifies with gauges but is pretty damn close guess every time. I cant argue with someone who is lead tech with 27yrs, that why I'm hear with this long winded rambling tirade :)
Ha ha fun, It really is not that complicated when you know subcooling and superheat. All the rest are generalities and things you notice when a system is working correctly like the 20 and 30 degree above ambient. What we are really talking about is how big is the sat state in the coil and how much superheat do we have and how much subcooling do we have after the sat state. For comfort cooling, you really just need subcooling for txv's and like you said, make sure the low side is not freezing. For pistons, find the target superheat and set it to the correct superheat on the low side. I always cringe when people try to set the charge without superheat on a piston system as on some cooler days, the system ends up putting liquid into the compressor if it is even a little overcharged. So you know, we don't wrap the sides of the unit on a 60 degree day. That would mess the sat states up in the outdoor unit. We restrict the airflow at the top to get to those pressures you were speaking about on the high side. Also keep in mind the the inside house temp must be raised so the indoor coil has some heat to absorb as the house temp will fall quickly and the low side gauge may approach or get below freezing. Check this playlist out. There are superheat, subcooling, possible pressures, sat temps, and troubleshooting in there- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojxZI3-xx03Bttxe3xCqUD87.html
good instructions
Thanks Stephen!
what about those blended refrigerants? like the new hot shot 2?
I would like to do a video on dew and bubble point pressure/temp charts, I just did not get a chance yet thanks.
acservicetech awesome! will look forward to seeing it. thanks!
Where and how connecting these gauges before starting measurements?
Here are two that would answer that, thanks - th-cam.com/video/eXkqOS_qywo/w-d-xo.html --- th-cam.com/video/Ydu0B3_Wkss/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for the simplification....this landlord if Fl. owes you a beer...
Ha ha nice
Hi, I like the way you instruct hvac, congratulations!. Question, I have a package unit cool water heat pump 2 ton unit in my apartment, Does the pressures and temperatures are the same as residential split units. My unit is R 410a I know R22 are different pressures.Ozzha in Miami Fl.
The biggest difference is the condenser in cooling mode or the evap in heating mode being a refrigerant to water heat exchanger. Depending on which system you have, if it is geothermal or chiller and the gallon per minute flow, temp, and size piping, the condenser pressures in cooling mode would likely be less than a traditional split system with refrigerant rejecting heat into the air. You have to take that type of system, gpm, water temp, and size piping, into consideration from a troubleshooting standpoint but the vapor pressures in cooling mode will be very similar. The manufacturer would state on the rating plate or the inside of the door, how they would like you to charge the unit taking these things into consideration. Thanks for the Comment!
OKAY? MMMMMKAY? Kay? K? Alright?
If the vapor side is low, how do you know if the refrigerant is low or if there is a leak. If there is a leak, do you use the reading on the vapor side to determine the leak is at the evaporator? How do you know the leak is not in the line between the evaporator and the condenser?
The pressures will be low on the low and high side of the gauges if there is a leak while the system is running. If the system is off then you would not know if a system had 6 oz or 12 lb because it works just like propane does where the liquid boils and the vapor is what applies the pressure. Take a look at this playlist to learn more about how it all works ---- th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojwbAc7K7DsjuasaDVfJeGSe.html ----- Here is another on finding a refrigerant leak ----- th-cam.com/video/2Be_sG-HQTQ/w-d-xo.html
On 410a, how do you determine a good high side pressure? like on the low side it's typically a 40 degree coil?
Well that really depends on the efficiency of the heat rejection such as the seer rating. The higher the seer rating, the lower the head pressure. If the fins are dirty, bushes are too close, seer rating is low or salt water is corroding the fins then the head pressure will be high. That is where you see you differences. The compression ratio head pressure divided by vapor pressure will really determine efficiency. Inside temps are always within 15 degrees, the coil is in good shape and the txv controls the superheat. A hot day can drive up the outdoor pressure. I hope that helps! Thanks for the question!