i have the very same loco..mine is a plastic body & floor. i replaced the original drive with a new P&D..but wanted to put stantons in it instead... how did you mount the sideframes onto the stanton drives? very nice work btw. i saved your vid for inspiration.
Good day Robert, you can find pictures of the conversion on my flickr account (www.flickr.com/photos/bvdoorn/) I did glue the side frames to the Stanton drives with superglue under pressure with a vise. If they could fix tiles to the space shuttle with superglue you can fix this also with superglue. I used the gel because it gives you a couple of minutes time to correct the position of the side frame if needed. Thanks for the compliments ad good luck with your conversion. Rgds Bart
Where do I find he Stanton drive and what does it look like inside? I have a couple older Weaver GP38 diesels I want to eliminate the visible drive shaft.
Good day, The drives are made by North West Short Line. You can find the specifications on their website www.nwsl.com/nwsl-online-catalog.html They come in the various wheel basis and you can also order the correct wheel size. The tricky thing can be the mounting of the side frame. I did mine by glue and then pressurize the whole thing for 24 hrs to ensure the 100% contact on the surface.
When it comes to the Stanton drives, the gears are delrin plastic (stock versions). You can also request the gears be made of metal as well. I have them in HO scale to power my Reading MU coaches, but had brass gears made for mine for better strength. The delrin gears tend to shred a bit easily over time if you don't properly weigh down the locomotive/diesels that are used. Plus if going HO, don't expect any kind of higher than "to scale" speeds.
Very nice looking engine. Sounds great too! I always use ESU Loksound decoders! I have an unpowered All Nation F3 that I am thinking of putting a stanton drive in. Do you still like the stanton drive? Both trucks are powered? How is the pulling capacity of the engine? Thanks for posting the video!
Hi Andy, sounds like a very nice project the conversion of the F3. Yes I am still very pleased with the performance of the Stanton drives. Indeed both trucks are powered. With the amount of ballast the loc comes on almost 2.3 kg which gives her sufficient pulling capacity. I do not know what her max pulling power is (I only use her on my switching layout) I am confident that she would perform on the mainline with. 20 or so cars pulling.
Looks very nice, absolutely love the rattle sound from the Alco. Ronald
Those Stanton drives work well with the LokSound decoder it seems.
They do perform very good. No jurking and smooth slow speeds. I can recomend the combination.
NICE work!! but how did you mount the sideframes to the stanton drives??
Hi Robert, thanks for the compliment. The side frames are glued under pressure with locktite.
i have the very same loco..mine is a plastic body & floor. i replaced the original drive with a new P&D..but wanted to put stantons in it instead... how did you mount the sideframes onto the stanton drives? very nice work btw. i saved your vid for inspiration.
Good day Robert, you can find pictures of the conversion on my flickr account (www.flickr.com/photos/bvdoorn/)
I did glue the side frames to the Stanton drives with superglue under pressure with a vise. If they could fix tiles to the space shuttle with superglue you can fix this also with superglue. I used the gel because it gives you a couple of minutes time to correct the position of the side frame if needed. Thanks for the compliments ad good luck with your conversion.
Rgds
Bart
Where do I find he Stanton drive and what does it look like inside? I have a couple older Weaver GP38 diesels I want to eliminate the visible drive shaft.
Good day, The drives are made by North West Short Line. You can find the specifications on their website www.nwsl.com/nwsl-online-catalog.html
They come in the various wheel basis and you can also order the correct wheel size. The tricky thing can be the mounting of the side frame. I did mine by glue and then pressurize the whole thing for 24 hrs to ensure the 100% contact on the surface.
When it comes to the Stanton drives, the gears are delrin plastic (stock versions). You can also request the gears be made of metal as well. I have them in HO scale to power my Reading MU coaches, but had brass gears made for mine for better strength. The delrin gears tend to shred a bit easily over time if you don't properly weigh down the locomotive/diesels that are used. Plus if going HO, don't expect any kind of higher than "to scale" speeds.
Awesome Sound
Very nice looking engine. Sounds great too! I always use ESU Loksound decoders! I have an unpowered All Nation F3 that I am thinking of putting a stanton drive in. Do you still like the stanton drive? Both trucks are powered? How is the pulling capacity of the engine? Thanks for posting the video!
Hi Andy, sounds like a very nice project the conversion of the F3. Yes I am still very pleased with the performance of the Stanton drives. Indeed both trucks are powered. With the amount of ballast the loc comes on almost 2.3 kg which gives her sufficient pulling capacity. I do not know what her max pulling power is (I only use her on my switching layout) I am confident that she would perform on the mainline with. 20 or so cars pulling.
No need to say more Bart - you had me at 'Alco'.
beautiful!!