@@cgarrand78 It does seem like there has been some negative outcry’s with Benchmade. If such negativity is warranted on the Bugout it would be reflected in the sales of the knife by now. I do enjoy my Bugout.
@@kevinx7015 I own 10 or 12 Benchmades and they are great knives.I haven't bought one in about two years because I think they are getting a little out of hand with their prices.They make great knives but I just don't think they are so much better than other comparable American made brands to justify the difference in price.I think with the bugout(I've never owned one) it's like anything else that is popular,you are going to have a lot of people who love it and a lot of people who hate it.
I don't think it would. Some companies just get into that zone where people will just assume they make great innovative products like what happens with Apple. They would like really have to shit the bed for it to affect their sales.
Hi, I love the "Mind the gap" reference, for those who don't know, it's a recorded.message on the Tube,.our Underground railway in London, and some other rail services in the UK 🇬🇧 Take care Graham
Hey DCA and Thomas, I absolutely love this series as it has allowed me to purchase many knives for specific jobs and uses. However my question for you guys is that while I'm a fan of the gentlemans folding knives, my heart belongs to fixed blades. Is there any fixed blade knife you would recommend or even consider to be a gentlemans fixed blade?
Hi DC, Thomas. Thanks for your video. According to "finger safety" of TriAdLock, it's possible to close it one-handed without any danger of your finger. Just take it tip-down, edge from you and push lock by your thumb on the same hand. Start folding the knife with the bottom of your palm. Then you can easily close the knife by inertia or by pressing on the tip of the knife by your body or any surround thing. I use this technique with my Recon 1.
For the first question, I recommend buying one of Rosecraft Blades traditional knives, which are all in D2 steel and cost between $50 to $62 and are well built and very good looking. I highly recommend the Nolichucky Jack or the Tanasi Lake Teardrop, which are single bladed knives. I have a Jack Wolf slipjoint but you can buy 6 Rosecrafts for the same cost as Jack Wolf.
I've always loved melon knives. My favorite, not originally designed to be, melon knife is the Al Mar Quicksilver. Pocket clip, titanium, D2, flipper! 😎👍
Grind is subjective to task. Hollow and full flat are better for most EDC tasks, but if you're going out into the woods with a fixed blade you might be better off with a scandi. Chisel grinds don't get enough love in my opinion, I think it's because people like symmetry.
Jack Wolf: huge increase in edge retention, plus huge increase in cost over your Buck Canoe. I went back through my collection and it was very hard to find a folder with a blade under 3 inches. The closest I could get: Sandrin Knives Dellatorre SK-1 Slipjoint Folding Knife 3.1" Polyhedral Tungsten Carbide DLC Drop Point Blade. Doesn’t meet the hollow grind factor as well. Great job, DCA!
The Quiet Carry Drift and Waypoint are Vanax knives, and all the internals and hardware are made with LC200N. They cost around $250 to $300, but they could be found for cheaper on sites like Blade Binge.
When unlocking the Code 4 if you put your pointer finger up on the knife and use your thumb to depress the back lock your pointer finger will be against the choil area of the blade so it has no chance of getting cut. I’m assuming that’s what why a lot of people chose the code 4 for that question.
I would recommend the civivi Appalachian Drifter for sure. It has an incredibly thin Hollow Grind and super thin behind the edge. Also comes in a bunch of cool different variants like snakeskin micarta
Hi DCA and Thomas. Most serious question, has anyone used a knife until there is not much worth sharpening anymore and what do you do with it? I can't throw them away it's like family! Should I bury them? Not much luck cremating
I like this question. But I'll probably die before that happens. Would be cool to start a program where knife addicts can leave the collections to another knife addict. Kinda like cars for kids but without greed and sketchiness. Guns knives first aid gear, should be well known how to handle by everyone. Like how it would be beneficial if all humans learned to swim or CPR.
I used a Buck 110 that my Father had given me many years ago. Between his use / sharpening, along with my use / sharpening, not much was left of the blade itself. I sent it back to Buck and they changed the blade out and returned the refurbished knife along with the old used blade back to me. Now it’s ready for another 20 or 30 years of use.
I live and work in London and just outside, learning and teaching Green wood working with adults and children,and this helped me much,thanks.other small things important are mud and lichen protection which makes the price hike of the civivi and lionsteel small intergral's attractive.Q does flat side/hollow side combo grind's with mirror finishing/DLC really make whittling/debarking "big" stick's significantly easier,,,and do show us small particles steel knives combining "lower corrosion resistance with new black mirror DLC as I want to explore this,thanks
Hello DCA I’m on a quest to find my dream edc lefty friendly sheepsfoot (or non aggressive incorrectly labeled as wharncliff or reverse tanto). I really like/appreciate a pronounced finger guard/choil where examples of nice choils might be native 5 , any dragonfly, rescue and many salt flavors. I really dislike the geometry on the roadie (same issue as the pingo, anti slicey and spring double decent closure has medium tiny sharp pinch risk, which I assume isn’t n690co’s fault). I’ve found I’m not great at safely handling a wharncliffe, at least in the form of a byrd robin 2, though I guess that has a relatively aggressive shape. Happily properly sharpened plain edges heal quickly without scars. I really enjoy the lefty finger safe friendly design of the vosteed corgi and how the micarta scales are just pleasant in the hand. Plus the spine is not sharp or exposed when closed (so a chamfered/beveled/crowned or recessed spine to make it bottom of pocket with iPhone safe). Also the bantam despite its size and slipjointedness is fun to hold when closed. I’ve found the ladybug handles to be much nicer for my large hands than the manbug, though I’m Leery of making a k390 my on the go edc with east coast urban humidity and my nature as a source of humidity. (Lb3 vg10 saber grind is sturdy but anti slicey). Aside from the odd apple slicing, weird hypothetical dog safety emergency or at home crazy craft prject something even lb3 sized is plenty. (Though I do sometimes if any of the super tool steel blades are heat treated such that I they’d keep their temper if I poked a not red hot, aka below 700-800f). I’ve had positive experiences with 14c28n and k390, neutral in vg 10, meh for n690co, h1 is ok and neutral on the NcrX and 420 types, I do have a maxamet sage I’ve yet to really experiment with. Also sub 4 inches, ideally
Hi DCA. It is a nice coincidence because I had the same question, except I would prefer a locking knife. Also, I am in California, and to best of my knowledge, button locks are considered to be dirks, and are problematic in cali. So for me, I am looking for thingly hollow ground, liner or frame lock, under 3", and I do like a clip point knife. When you displayed the CIVIVI Appalachian Drifter, I loved everything about it: blade, handle, form, materials, price. I would love it if you could have the same program as this one, but for locking knives, and as part of it, if you could recommend one similar to CIVIVI Appalachian Drifter. Weather you will or not, I really appreciate your podcast. Thank you for what you do, and Thomas as well.
I have watched this series and learned a tremendous amount. I have not seen to this point a reference to boot knives. Nothing supersized or ridiculous in nature, just a standard length every day boot knife. As these obviously would be carried in a boot, what would be the best knife/sheath combination for western boots, and just for arguments sake how about a boot knife/sheath combination for work boots, lace up, or even BOA laced? Ideally, a sheath that can really hold in place during a normal tradesman’s day, think HVAC attic, crawl space, ladder, etc.
Hi David, What are some buget knives that become much better after a few do-it-yourself mods? For example, modifications can be as simple as sanding down edges, breaking in the action, new blade grind, removing the thumb studs, changing the scales, or a new pocket clip.
About the safety of the knife with a lock on the back. There was a case when working with the Kabar dozier in an awkward position and using force, the inner part of the palm pressed the lock and the knife closed like a guillotine in a flash, leaving no chance for the fingers holding the knife!
For the first guy who wanted better edge retention, you cant really get away from needing a better steel for that, however Dr. Vadim did a paper on optimal bevels on super steels and found that the higher strength the steel has, the lower angle you can sharpen it at and it actually increases edge retention as oposed to reducing it. We are constantly told that high angles are for sturdy edges that last long, low angles are for super sharp edges but they are fragile and wont last very long. According to data, that isnt necessarily true for most quality modern steels funny enough. Not sure 420 steel would take very well to a 12 dps sharpening, but if you get a better knife its absolutely worth testing out at least.
regarding finger safe locks - it needs to be said that a lot of people slice the meat of their palm with the tip of a crossbar locking blade as it flicks shut.
I sure did do that once! It was one of those “uh oh” moments because I was driving down the road in the dark fidgeting with it and was about scared to look at my palm. Ended up super shallow but was definitely something to be aware of forever after lol.
Oh yeah, I had a few little parallel cuts when I got my first axis lock. I hold them now without it resting against my palm, since several of them the tip of the blade comes too close and I get cut... I just can't remember which ones those are
@@The_RC_Guruglad I'm not the only one who fidgets with knives as I drive. I at least stop using the balde to dig out ingrown beard hairs at red lights. XD
The videos where Seth buys a survival knife and an expert gives him tips for using it were great. The big question is, when will we see the next series, "Seth Buys a Safety Razor" and "Colonel Ichabod Conk Gives Seth Shaving Tips"? Can't wait!
Yesss!! Hollow ground knives are the best. Can't get enough of them😍There's a reason why razors used to be hollow ground cuz the blade comes down to a razor sharp edge
@@brunorojas3992 Regardless of their manufacturing cost, I like hollow ground knives because of the keen edge they take which is closely related to their TBE(thickness behind the edge). Since I mainly perform shallow cuts in my everyday carry, hollow ground blades are my preferred grind . Personally, convex ground blades wouldn't be my choice for an edc pocket knife.
I have an interesting take on what is the best grind. The convex grind. 1. Will hold the most steel on the edge, making it the most durable and have been doing it for ages with axes, hatchets, and machetes. 2. This grind will chop the best while keeping the edge from completely curling after two hits. 3. I've heard frow true survivalist that the convex grind will feathstick the easiest and create the best curls. 4. The Highest end knife makers such as Rockstead will use this grind with some of the hardest steels in the world like ZDP-189. Not to mention it will stay razor sharp for longer with that grind.
Halloween/October serious questions: If Michael myers needed a new knife what we he buy? If Jason vorhees needed a new machete what would he buy? If scream needed a new knife what would he buy? And if leather face (Texas chainsaw) traded in his chainsaw for a bladed weapon what would he pick up?
Be careful about that Code4 fella. Aluminium is very slippery, that was the only reason why I've replaced it. And it's a pain to find aftermarket scales for the C4
Hey D.C.A. and Thomas. I work in lawn spraying and shrub trimming business. I need a decent knife with washers in the pivot. I also live in florida so I need something that's going to be as stainless as I can get with my budget . Around 250
Another good “salt series” knife that just so happens to have a hollow grind would be a sebenza or inkosi or any other Chris Reeve knife in magnacut. Just don’t get the wood models if you’re worried about “corrosion/ destruction” of the knife.
Hey DCA/Thomas, Got a question. I recently purchased a knife with a tungsten steel blade. I don’t hear too much about tungsten steel knife blades. Can you talk a little about it? What’s good about it? And not so good. Love what you guys are doing. Thanks! Cordially, MSL
Traditional knives with better edge retention: Rough Ryder Canoe T10 Carbon & Micarta , Rough Ryder Bow Trapper Carbon Steel & G-10 , Rough Ryder Wasp Bow Trapper VG-10 & G10, LionSteel Barlow M390 & Micarta, Kansept Wedge 154CM & Micarta, Buck Saunter 154CM & Micarta, Case Highbanks CPM-20 CV & Micarta. The best survival knife to have on you if you get in that situation, assuming you don't have a fixed blade? Something unkaputtbar and with decent ergos like the Cold Steel 4Max Scout or AD-10, Real Steel H7, Becker BK40, Ruike P135, Ganzo G720, CJRB Resource, etc.
I collect rough Ryders, and def prefer the T10 and VG10 steel knives they carry. You’ll never hear them mentioned on this channel cuz those knives are the house brands of their competitor, SMKW.
I wish you guys would list the handle thickness on every product. It seems at least half don't have that spec listed but when a tool is clipped to my pocket all day that's basically the most important dimension to consider. Thicker than .4 inches and it gets annoying.
Now that the crossbar lock patent is expired and now any company can make them would you consider redoing or updating your Beat the Icon: 940 Osborne video?
Hey David, love your content. I was wondering if you could answer this question in your next FAQ: What are some knives under $250 that would be similar to the Esee 4 regarding size and in that they'd be good for survival and passable for bushcraft? My Esee 4 got stolen recently, and I want to replace it, but never felt like the handle on it was particularly comfortable (it was a little short and blocky for me) so am looking for something else different. Maybe a beat the icon Esee 4 video? Thanks!
Thanks as always Thomas and Mr. Andersen. For the alternative to the Buck, what about the Schrade Old Timer slipjoints? There are both 9Cr and 1095, multi-blade, hollow-ground options.
FWIW, if you live in the U.S., you can buy real miniature cannons that size, and they aren't that expensive. They also aren't legally "firearms" from a federal perspective, so in most states, they ship right to your door. They're real fun for holiday gatherings or parties if you live out in the sticks.
Would you consider a Spyderco Compression lock finger safe? I can close my PM2 without my fingers in the path of the blade by bringing all my fingers up on the scales and hitting the lock with my index finger. Never handled a back lock but it seems the lock being further down would make that trickier to do.
In the spirit of the first question, how about an overview of sheath materials for fixed blades (and why leather is the best). But really, I don't know the difference between injection molded, "real" Kydex as I've heard you say before, Boltaron, or other sheath materials and when one would be preferred over another.
Hi Guys - In your march through the alphabet, when you get to the letter M, can we look at some of the examples from Mcusta? Keep up the informatative and fun facts.
Very serious question: at the beginning of the KnifeAQ videos, someone does some voiceover that goes “*gutteral noises* Buh buh buh buh buh buh, doo doo doo, duh duhhh!” Who does that credit go to? I can hear both DCA and/or Thomas, depending on who I imagine it as. Or was it a collaboration?
If I use a knife I usually sharpen it before I use it again. I have enough knives that I can swap them daily. I think every knife I own has a hollow grind. After I gave away all my deer hunting equipment except the guns I only have a folding Buck 110 that my parents gave me for my 21st birthday. It will be 31 years since I got it in December. Still razor sharp not made in China
Here’s the quote, “Always carry a knife with you, just in case there's cheesecake, or you need to stab someone in the throat “- General Mattis US Army.
Hey DCA I am a landscaper who typically carries an Ontario Rat 2 in Aus8 in my pocket during workdays, I have recently been looking for a fixed blade with a pocket sheath, but won’t be obtrusive when kneeling. Any help would be appreciated.
For Dracula a muskrat works, especially when he’s tired of using his fangs. Although that knife may be more fitting for Nosfaratu. For the werewolf, a Jack Wolf knife with a wicked clip point blade for skinning, and for Frankenstein’s monster a Junglass for when he’s just fed up with that nasty village who have it out for him. Tolerance can only go so far.
Kershaw Blur in 14c28n hollow grind and 0.012-0.013” behind the cutting edge. Suprised nobody ever gives the behind the edge info only TH-camrs like Stassa
Ah so here is a question from me in Spain I have a small single blade non-locking pocket knife all of which, including the blade, is made made of silver excluding the pearl scales. The blade is even hallmarked, except apart from the lion for silver, I cannot read the rest. I have been told it is a fruit knife, such as the last one you have shown. Firstly is this the case, and secondly why, and if so, build an entire knife out of silver given it is such a soft metal ? Ps. It is a beautifully crafted piece but totally impractical.
LOL Thomas putting the bugout in anyway was great!
Yep. Just waiting for the Bench made haters to start crying to have him cancelled for it! 😂
@@cgarrand78 It does seem like there has been some negative outcry’s with Benchmade. If such negativity is warranted on the Bugout it would be reflected in the sales of the knife by now. I do enjoy my Bugout.
@@kevinx7015 I own 10 or 12 Benchmades and they are great knives.I haven't bought one in about two years because I think they are getting a little out of hand with their prices.They make great knives but I just don't think they are so much better than other comparable American made brands to justify the difference in price.I think with the bugout(I've never owned one) it's like anything else that is popular,you are going to have a lot of people who love it and a lot of people who hate it.
made me laugh, and realize... don't sleep on the exclusives
I don't think it would. Some companies just get into that zone where people will just assume they make great innovative products like what happens with Apple. They would like really have to shit the bed for it to affect their sales.
Hi,
I love the "Mind the gap" reference, for those who don't know, it's a recorded.message on the Tube,.our Underground railway in London, and some other rail services in the UK 🇬🇧
Take care
Graham
This is definitely the best knife content I've found on TH-cam--keep up the good work!
Hey DCA and Thomas, I absolutely love this series as it has allowed me to purchase many knives for specific jobs and uses. However my question for you guys is that while I'm a fan of the gentlemans folding knives, my heart belongs to fixed blades. Is there any fixed blade knife you would recommend or even consider to be a gentlemans fixed blade?
If you could find some fancier scale replacements, possibly the JL Kwaiken?
For a rust free knife how about the Quiet Carry Drift? Vanax blade, lc200N liners. G10 scales. Nothing to corrode. Incredibly comfortable to hold.
Hi DC, Thomas. Thanks for your video.
According to "finger safety" of TriAdLock, it's possible to close it one-handed without any danger of your finger. Just take it tip-down, edge from you and push lock by your thumb on the same hand. Start folding the knife with the bottom of your palm. Then you can easily close the knife by inertia or by pressing on the tip of the knife by your body or any surround thing. I use this technique with my Recon 1.
For the first question, I recommend buying one of Rosecraft Blades traditional knives, which are all in D2 steel and cost between $50 to $62 and are well built and very good looking. I highly recommend the Nolichucky Jack or the Tanasi Lake Teardrop, which are single bladed knives. I have a Jack Wolf slipjoint but you can buy 6 Rosecrafts for the same cost as Jack Wolf.
Alright I'll raise ya you can buy like 3-4 rough Ryders for the price of one Rosecraft lol I got slip joint fever.
Seems like a “rosecraft” bait post. Maybe we can all just stop buying Chinese made junk and support our own nations endeavors.
@@brunorojas3992 which of the two has better cutting geometry.
Only problem is most of them are flat ground, and our guy was specifically asking for hollow ground options -DCA
What if you live in china..
Love my Jack Wolf 🐺 Knife. I live in the UK,and it's a fantastic slipjoint to edc 😊
Thomas showing the Bugout anyway was funny. The best knife to have on you is always a fixed blade
Yeah true its that folders are best for having on you
I've always loved melon knives. My favorite, not originally designed to be, melon knife is the Al Mar Quicksilver.
Pocket clip, titanium, D2, flipper! 😎👍
Grind is subjective to task. Hollow and full flat are better for most EDC tasks, but if you're going out into the woods with a fixed blade you might be better off with a scandi. Chisel grinds don't get enough love in my opinion, I think it's because people like symmetry.
I’m wondering whether a USA made Buck stockman or pen knife with 420HC would be a step up from the imported 420J2 hollow ground canoe?
Yes.
Obviously yes.
Jack Wolf: huge increase in edge retention, plus huge increase in cost over your Buck Canoe. I went back through my collection and it was very hard to find a folder with a blade under 3 inches. The closest I could get: Sandrin Knives Dellatorre SK-1 Slipjoint Folding Knife 3.1" Polyhedral Tungsten Carbide DLC Drop Point Blade. Doesn’t meet the hollow grind factor as well. Great job, DCA!
The Quiet Carry Drift and Waypoint are Vanax knives, and all the internals and hardware are made with LC200N. They cost around $250 to $300, but they could be found for cheaper on sites like Blade Binge.
When unlocking the Code 4 if you put your pointer finger up on the knife and use your thumb to depress the back lock your pointer finger will be against the choil area of the blade so it has no chance of getting cut. I’m assuming that’s what why a lot of people chose the code 4 for that question.
I would recommend the civivi Appalachian Drifter for sure. It has an incredibly thin Hollow Grind and super thin behind the edge. Also comes in a bunch of cool different variants like snakeskin micarta
Hi DCA and Thomas. Most serious question, has anyone used a knife until there is not much worth sharpening anymore and what do you do with it? I can't throw them away it's like family! Should I bury them? Not much luck cremating
I like this question. But I'll probably die before that happens. Would be cool to start a program where knife addicts can leave the collections to another knife addict. Kinda like cars for kids but without greed and sketchiness. Guns knives first aid gear, should be well known how to handle by everyone. Like how it would be beneficial if all humans learned to swim or CPR.
I used a Buck 110 that my Father had given me many years ago. Between his use / sharpening, along with my use / sharpening, not much was left of the blade itself. I sent it back to Buck and they changed the blade out and returned the refurbished knife along with the old used blade back to me. Now it’s ready for another 20 or 30 years of use.
Bury them? Are you a Jewish grandmother or something? 😂😂
@@Obsidian-One As a Pro knife sharpener I've advised a few clients to retire some knives. Sad day.
Replace the blade.
I live and work in London and just outside, learning and teaching Green wood working with adults and children,and this helped me much,thanks.other small things important are mud and lichen protection which makes the price hike of the civivi and lionsteel small intergral's attractive.Q does flat side/hollow side combo grind's with mirror finishing/DLC really make whittling/debarking "big" stick's significantly easier,,,and do show us small particles steel knives combining "lower corrosion resistance with new black mirror DLC as I want to explore this,thanks
Love the buried treasure bit.
Hello DCA
I’m on a quest to find my dream edc lefty friendly sheepsfoot (or non aggressive incorrectly labeled as wharncliff or reverse tanto).
I really like/appreciate a pronounced finger guard/choil where examples of nice choils might be native 5 , any dragonfly, rescue and many salt flavors. I really dislike the geometry on the roadie (same issue as the pingo, anti slicey and spring double decent closure has medium tiny sharp pinch risk, which I assume isn’t n690co’s fault).
I’ve found I’m not great at safely handling a wharncliffe, at least in the form of a byrd robin 2, though I guess that has a relatively aggressive shape. Happily properly sharpened plain edges heal quickly without scars.
I really enjoy the lefty finger safe friendly design of the vosteed corgi and how the micarta scales are just pleasant in the hand. Plus the spine is not sharp or exposed when closed (so a chamfered/beveled/crowned or recessed spine to make it bottom of pocket with iPhone safe).
Also the bantam despite its size and slipjointedness is fun to hold when closed.
I’ve found the ladybug handles to be much nicer for my large hands than the manbug, though I’m Leery of making a k390 my on the go edc with east coast urban humidity and my nature as a source of humidity. (Lb3 vg10 saber grind is sturdy but anti slicey).
Aside from the odd apple slicing, weird hypothetical dog safety emergency or at home crazy craft prject something even lb3 sized is plenty. (Though I do sometimes if any of the super tool steel blades are heat treated such that I they’d keep their temper if I poked a not red hot, aka below 700-800f).
I’ve had positive experiences with 14c28n and k390, neutral in vg 10, meh for n690co, h1 is ok and neutral on the NcrX and 420 types, I do have a maxamet sage I’ve yet to really experiment with.
Also sub 4 inches, ideally
Edit: also ideally relatively non aggressive appearance that wouldn’t be wildly inappropriate for a large corporate office in the nyc area .. :)
Hi DCA. It is a nice coincidence because I had the same question, except I would prefer a locking knife. Also, I am in California, and to best of my knowledge, button locks are considered to be dirks, and are problematic in cali. So for me, I am looking for thingly hollow ground, liner or frame lock, under 3", and I do like a clip point knife.
When you displayed the CIVIVI Appalachian Drifter, I loved everything about it: blade, handle, form, materials, price. I would love it if you could have the same program as this one, but for locking knives, and as part of it, if you could recommend one similar to CIVIVI Appalachian Drifter.
Weather you will or not, I really appreciate your podcast. Thank you for what you do, and Thomas as well.
I have watched this series and learned a tremendous amount. I have not seen to this point a reference to boot knives. Nothing supersized or ridiculous in nature, just a standard length every day boot knife. As these obviously would be carried in a boot, what would be the best knife/sheath combination for western boots, and just for arguments sake how about a boot knife/sheath combination for work boots, lace up, or even BOA laced? Ideally, a sheath that can really hold in place during a normal tradesman’s day, think HVAC attic, crawl space, ladder, etc.
Hi David,
What are some buget knives that become much better after a few do-it-yourself mods? For example, modifications can be as simple as sanding down edges, breaking in the action, new blade grind, removing the thumb studs, changing the scales, or a new pocket clip.
Convex is my fav. . Best for stability while going full power
About the safety of the knife with a lock on the back. There was a case when working with the Kabar dozier in an awkward position and using force, the inner part of the palm pressed the lock and the knife closed like a guillotine in a flash, leaving no chance for the fingers holding the knife!
For the first guy who wanted better edge retention, you cant really get away from needing a better steel for that, however Dr. Vadim did a paper on optimal bevels on super steels and found that the higher strength the steel has, the lower angle you can sharpen it at and it actually increases edge retention as oposed to reducing it. We are constantly told that high angles are for sturdy edges that last long, low angles are for super sharp edges but they are fragile and wont last very long. According to data, that isnt necessarily true for most quality modern steels funny enough. Not sure 420 steel would take very well to a 12 dps sharpening, but if you get a better knife its absolutely worth testing out at least.
Hi David,
If you could have many multiples of one knife in your collection what would it be?
regarding finger safe locks - it needs to be said that a lot of people slice the meat of their palm with the tip of a crossbar locking blade as it flicks shut.
I sure did do that once! It was one of those “uh oh” moments because I was driving down the road in the dark fidgeting with it and was about scared to look at my palm. Ended up super shallow but was definitely something to be aware of forever after lol.
Oh yeah, I had a few little parallel cuts when I got my first axis lock. I hold them now without it resting against my palm, since several of them the tip of the blade comes too close and I get cut... I just can't remember which ones those are
@@The_RC_Guruglad I'm not the only one who fidgets with knives as I drive. I at least stop using the balde to dig out ingrown beard hairs at red lights. XD
But how does one cut there palm with the crossbar?
@@brunorojas3992 knife tip as it swings closed if you have the bottom of the handle resting in your palm.
The videos where Seth buys a survival knife and an expert gives him tips for using it were great. The big question is, when will we see the next series, "Seth Buys a Safety Razor" and "Colonel Ichabod Conk Gives Seth Shaving Tips"? Can't wait!
Yesss!! Hollow ground knives are the best. Can't get enough of them😍There's a reason why razors used to be hollow ground cuz the blade comes down to a razor sharp edge
Weird cause I memeber reading that hollow grinds are cheap grinds easy for manufacturers to do. And that convex is best.
@@brunorojas3992 Regardless of their manufacturing cost, I like hollow ground knives because of the keen edge they take which is closely related to their TBE(thickness behind the edge). Since I mainly perform shallow cuts in my everyday carry, hollow ground blades are my preferred grind . Personally, convex ground blades wouldn't be my choice for an edc pocket knife.
I have an interesting take on what is the best grind. The convex grind.
1. Will hold the most steel on the edge, making it the most durable and have been doing it for ages with axes, hatchets, and machetes.
2. This grind will chop the best while keeping the edge from completely curling after two hits.
3. I've heard frow true survivalist that the convex grind will feathstick the easiest and create the best curls.
4. The Highest end knife makers such as Rockstead will use this grind with some of the hardest steels in the world like ZDP-189. Not to mention it will stay razor sharp for longer with that grind.
Full flat is the way to go
The best thing about hollow grinds is it makes the knife so easy to re-grind flat to zero.
especially for cardboard cutting
Why?
For taller blades it's just as slicy, stronger edge and doesn't wedge itself as much in the material
"Yes, that's a very good point", I see what you did there!
I would like to see an episode showcasing knives with real stag handles. I love watching these shows, great work KnifeCenter.
I think the Cold Steel 4MAX Scout is the best every day carry survival knife. I would put it against a lot of fixed blades strengthwise.
"Don't care; Showing the Bugout anyway" 👏🏻👏🏻🤣 Classic Thomas
I've been closing backlocks on my belt or leg for 50 years . I've never been bitten.
Halloween/October serious questions:
If Michael myers needed a new knife what we he buy?
If Jason vorhees needed a new machete what would he buy?
If scream needed a new knife what would he buy?
And if leather face (Texas chainsaw) traded in his chainsaw for a bladed weapon what would he pick up?
Be careful about that Code4 fella.
Aluminium is very slippery, that was the only reason why I've replaced it.
And it's a pain to find aftermarket scales for the C4
The Drop Bear in LC200N is pretty great for salt scenarios, but the QuietCarry lineup is designed specifically for them.
Great stuff as always. J Wolf 🐺 outrageous price - premium or not.
Hey D.C.A. and Thomas. I work in lawn spraying and shrub trimming business. I need a decent knife with washers in the pivot. I also live in florida so I need something that's going to be as stainless as I can get with my budget . Around 250
Another good “salt series” knife that just so happens to have a hollow grind would be a sebenza or inkosi or any other Chris Reeve knife in magnacut. Just don’t get the wood models if you’re worried about “corrosion/ destruction” of the knife.
Hey DCA/Thomas, Got a question. I recently purchased a knife with a tungsten steel blade. I don’t hear too much about tungsten steel knife blades. Can you talk a little about it? What’s good about it? And not so good. Love what you guys are doing. Thanks!
Cordially,
MSL
That’s cool I don’t think I’ve ever seen a knife in tungsten!
@@The_RC_Guru yeah, I was kind of surprised too. The knife I purchased is the Maserin 373 W1. It’s one of those Italian companies out of Maniago.
I agree, hollow ground is the best for fighting knife.
Traditional knives with better edge retention: Rough Ryder Canoe T10 Carbon & Micarta , Rough Ryder Bow Trapper Carbon Steel & G-10 , Rough Ryder Wasp Bow Trapper VG-10 & G10, LionSteel Barlow M390 & Micarta, Kansept Wedge 154CM & Micarta, Buck Saunter 154CM & Micarta, Case Highbanks CPM-20 CV & Micarta.
The best survival knife to have on you if you get in that situation, assuming you don't have a fixed blade? Something unkaputtbar and with decent ergos like the Cold Steel 4Max Scout or AD-10, Real Steel H7, Becker BK40, Ruike P135, Ganzo G720, CJRB Resource, etc.
I collect rough Ryders, and def prefer the T10 and VG10 steel knives they carry. You’ll never hear them mentioned on this channel cuz those knives are the house brands of their competitor, SMKW.
I wish you guys would list the handle thickness on every product. It seems at least half don't have that spec listed but when a tool is clipped to my pocket all day that's basically the most important dimension to consider. Thicker than .4 inches and it gets annoying.
Now that the crossbar lock patent is expired and now any company can make them would you consider redoing or updating your Beat the Icon: 940 Osborne video?
ALWAYS show the Bugout!
Hey David, love your content. I was wondering if you could answer this question in your next FAQ: What are some knives under $250 that would be similar to the Esee 4 regarding size and in that they'd be good for survival and passable for bushcraft? My Esee 4 got stolen recently, and I want to replace it, but never felt like the handle on it was particularly comfortable (it was a little short and blocky for me) so am looking for something else different. Maybe a beat the icon Esee 4 video? Thanks!
Thanks as always Thomas and Mr. Andersen. For the alternative to the Buck, what about the Schrade Old Timer slipjoints? There are both 9Cr and 1095, multi-blade, hollow-ground options.
Or, just got for an American made Buck in 420HC which has more toughness and reasonable edge retention
FWIW, if you live in the U.S., you can buy real miniature cannons that size, and they aren't that expensive. They also aren't legally "firearms" from a federal perspective, so in most states, they ship right to your door. They're real fun for holiday gatherings or parties if you live out in the sticks.
Great stuff, thanks for doing this. Any chance we’re could revisit the pocket folder for food prep subject again?
Great channel! Could you please show some bushcraft knives with built-in bow drill divots.
For the first topic, wouldn't the Cold Steel 54VPN Lucky Two Blade Gentleman's Pen Knife work?
Would you consider a Spyderco Compression lock finger safe? I can close my PM2 without my fingers in the path of the blade by bringing all my fingers up on the scales and hitting the lock with my index finger. Never handled a back lock but it seems the lock being further down would make that trickier to do.
Integrally safe closing
In the spirit of the first question, how about an overview of sheath materials for fixed blades (and why leather is the best). But really, I don't know the difference between injection molded, "real" Kydex as I've heard you say before, Boltaron, or other sheath materials and when one would be preferred over another.
If the best knife to have on you is the easy one to carry then I guess that eliminates my Frontier Bowie.
I HATE hollowgrinds on wood. Meat and Foodprepping works good with it.
Never use a hollow grind on your wood. Knife safety 101
How about Quiet Carry? Vanax and the rest of the knife is made for water environments as well
I find my CJRB Prado thin, lightweight and finger safe
If you were going to prepare an entire multi-course meal using a regular edc knife (not one modeled after a chef knife) what would you use?
what would be the best knife to help you remove the production stickers that are still on your laptop?
Cheesecake is the correct slang answer when asked “What do you use that big knife for?” when you mean a bad guy.
Too funny Thomas, too funny! Loved it.
Hi Guys - In your march through the alphabet, when you get to the letter M, can we look at some of the examples from Mcusta?
Keep up the informatative and fun facts.
Thomas and the flying bugout 🤣
Very serious question: at the beginning of the KnifeAQ videos, someone does some voiceover that goes “*gutteral noises* Buh buh buh buh buh buh, doo doo doo, duh duhhh!” Who does that credit go to? I can hear both DCA and/or Thomas, depending on who I imagine it as. Or was it a collaboration?
The doo doo doos were me, the rest was Thomas lol -DCA
Great episode.
If I use a knife I usually sharpen it before I use it again. I have enough knives that I can swap them daily.
I think every knife I own has a hollow grind.
After I gave away all my deer hunting equipment except the guns I only have a folding Buck 110 that my parents gave me for my 21st birthday. It will be 31 years since I got it in December. Still razor sharp not made in China
Maybe “Interference Lock” … similar to car engine timing belts when they break.
Hi greetings from Poland
Here’s the quote,
“Always carry a knife with you, just in case there's cheesecake, or you need to stab someone in the throat “- General Mattis US Army.
Please do a top 10 FAQ questions please
Hollow grind is definitely better than scandi, and flat is better than convex
I have a very old Case melon tester from my grandma and only found out a couple weeks ago that's what it's called.
I need a lettle opener 😁
The QSP Canary is not stainless?
Put the screws back into the Code 4!
We've already taken it out of inventory to send back to the manufacturer -DCA
Have a Bugout! 🗣️🗣️
Hey DCA I am a landscaper who typically carries an Ontario Rat 2 in Aus8 in my pocket during workdays, I have recently been looking for a fixed blade with a pocket sheath, but won’t be obtrusive when kneeling. Any help would be appreciated.
Why is the code 4 missing a bunch of body screws?!
I thought I was tripping.
We've already removed it from our inventory and sent it back to the manufacturer. -DCA
Serious question
We are coming into spooky season, what knives would dracula, the wolfman, and frankenstein carry?
For Dracula a muskrat works, especially when he’s tired of using his fangs. Although that knife may be more fitting for Nosfaratu.
For the werewolf, a Jack Wolf knife with a wicked clip point blade for skinning, and for Frankenstein’s monster a Junglass for when he’s just fed up with that nasty village who have it out for him.
Tolerance can only go so far.
When thinking about Frankenstein, the Boket mermaid comes to mind
Kershaw Blur in 14c28n hollow grind and 0.012-0.013” behind the cutting edge. Suprised nobody ever gives the behind the edge info only TH-camrs like Stassa
Lionsteel Bestman 👌👍😊
Exactly, the perfect UK-friendly upgrade to the canoe! I just love this knife - and everything else from Lionsteel!!
Not hollow ground which is what our friend was looking for. -DCA
@@knifecenter so similar it makes very little difference.
Jack Wolfe maybe a brilliant design but for $300.00 I better get my aluminum tube with my cartoon pog 😅
I can't stand Hollow Grinds. Give me a Flat/Flat Saber Grind any day...
It should be noted that Denix's swords are not functional replicas, if you try to use them there is a significant chance that they'll break.
8:31 be careful with a flipper knife as it’s a very grey area in UK knife law. It can be considered a mechanical opening device which is illegal.
Hollow grinds are better for what people actually use pocket knives for.
Sitting in a safe
Exactly!!
14c28n is perfect for getting a hysterical edge with a hollow grind 🤓
_Hysterical?_
That QSP Canary is the father of the Civivi Banneret?
Ah so here is a question from me in Spain
I have a small single blade non-locking pocket knife all of which, including the blade, is made made of silver excluding the pearl scales.
The blade is even hallmarked, except apart from the lion for silver, I cannot read the rest.
I have been told it is a fruit knife, such as the last one you have shown.
Firstly is this the case, and secondly why, and if so, build an entire knife out of silver given it is such a soft metal ?
Ps. It is a beautifully crafted piece but totally impractical.
Full flat is better... Definitely.
You could always call them "finger clear locks" because literally, the finger is clear of the blade path.
Or people can just not be so literal and use a little bit of common sense to understand exactly what they mean.
Fingertip Actuated Lock? By using the fingertips to operate the lock you keep it out of the groove, so...
eRmmM AcKshuAlLy !?
Nah--I'm cutting that found cheesecake and eating it. No possible downsides! 😂
Was nice knowing ya! :P -DCA
Tomas seems more upbeat than usual
How about the paranoid lock?