Just got one of these collets today off a local trading site, came with a good range of imperial and metric collets too, Im wrapped, such a neat system
Thanks for watching. I hope that you will get many, many happy hours using them. No fear of the cutter pulling out under load and damaging the vice or table. Regards.
Thanks for that. If I recall the auto lock also has the feature of winding the outer collar up against the spindle to stabilise the cutter. Came here from andrew whale recommendation.
Hello Jeffrey, thanks for the view and the Subscription. Yes you are correct about the Morse taper versions having a collar. It was threaded left hand and did two functions, firstly it did add extra support to the holder, but it's real function was to get the holder to eject easily from the Morse spindle. Place a peg spanner in the supplied holes, lock the spindle release the draw bolt and rotate clockwise. Saved having to bang on the draw bolt to eject it and save damaging the spindle bearings. Regards.
Clarkson only ever fitted these stabilising collars to the Autolocks with small machine tapers such as MT2. In use, the lateral cutting force can overwhelm the rigidity of the small diameter of MT2, so Clarkson added these reinforcement collars which could be screwed back against the machine spindle to increase stability. They weren’t required on MT3, R8 or larger Autolocks 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your comment too. Need to get the old knowledge out to the youngsters of today, especially as some schools have stopped teaching the mechanical trades and tend to go for computer subjects and such like. Regards.
Hello Dave, Great video and very well explained... I think I will get one for my milling machine as I was not aware they were made with morse taper shanks... Take care. Paul,,
Hi Paul. if your machine is a MT 3. Here is a link to one on ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325242102376?hash=item4bb9f0a268:g:1~kAAOSwtQpitHpa Thanks for watching. Regards
Hi Dave . I cut my teeth on Autolock and Deadlock chucks . I still have a couple , even a C type ! The Deadlock i reckon is still the best system for large endmills like 2'' & face mill cutters . Most people have problems with cutters drifting , esp the ER system is they do not realise how tight the things are supposed to be . The only issue i found if you leave that big gap with the nut , you can split the ass of the cutter in half . 👍
Hello Max, thanks for the view and your excellent comment. Gap issue duly noted, although I have never split a cutter. I have about 4 in my drawer that are split, but they came from my Dad's tools and they are 1/4 inch ones too. Regards.
Hello William, Glad to hear it, if you know something useful pass it onto the new people before it gets forgotten about. That the good thing about YT, hopefully their servers will keep this information for the next generation. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Hello Nick, Thanks for the view. Please feel free to personally E-mail me with any specific questions and I can hopefully answer them and send any instruction and pictures back to you. Regards.
Hi Dave - just a couple of things - like you I used to leave a gap on the nose bush and nip it up with the wrench but thats what splits the cutter - one day I read the clarkson instructions and I had been doing it wrong for years What you are supposed to do is wind the bush holding the collet in until it touches the holder body then wind in the cutter and like you said this push the collet into the holder and locks it - this also prevents and improves cutter run out the wrench is only used to take the cutter and bush out because as soon as the cutter starts cutting it locks tight the second thing the deadlock cutter system clarkson made for the shell mills used cap screws to untighten the collar - you could do a video on the deadlock system because I have trouble figgering it out - I know the shell mill cutter's had a thread in them and again they tightened when cutting just for interest because the shell mills only work in clarkson holder's and would be expensive and hard to find you could also do a video on clarkson FC - 3 cutter's and holder's I have waffled enough Thanks Dave I enjoy your video's and your knowledge Laurie
Hi Laurie. Thanks for the view and your comment. I was doing the clamping spanner job on the cutters because that was what I was shown as an apprentice in 1966. 😊 As they say we all can learn from our mistakes. Thanks about the FC -3 cutters and holders. Although I do have some cutters which I hold in the ER collets, I only have a 6 mm Fc - 3 holder on a W 20 shank for my Aciera High Speed milling / drilling head. Regards.
I love my Clarkson Autolok chuck... bought it new 40 years ago and it was SPENDY !! .... but it has paid for itself many many times over... If I have one complaint its that the holder is large to the point of getting in the way sometimes... 😎👍☘️🍺
Hello Peter, Yes I agree a bit bulky at times, but at least the cutters do not pull out and ruin the work or damage your table. Thanks for the view and comment. Regards.
Hi Mike, Thanks, will do, getting a bit short of ideas, will sit and ponder some more. Never even thought about doing it until say Mr Pete's video on cutter pull out. Regards.
Hi Dave, have used plenty of the Autolock in my past but never come across the holders for the other version you showed. Seen a few of the collets with the twin dogs on but never knew what they fitted. Another one of life's mysteries solved. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, See, you can teach a "Not So Old Person" New Tricks.😊 Would you use a holder if I got you one. Int 30 of course 😊 Thanks for watching. Regards.
The Clarkson Autolocks with the “dogged” collets are the original Type C design. They were superseded by the Type S in the early 70s which have collets with flats; they are much more common and superior in operation.
Another great video , was nice to hear someone talking favourably of the clarkson tool holder I’m lucky enough to own one with a large selection of collets and some end mills etc and iv found it a rather nice thing to work with I like it however I’m only a hobby machinist largely self taught / u tube taught so don’t have much authority to say so. The two experienced “new school” type cnc machinists at work both say it’s “rubbish system from the dinosaur age” I feel this is a bit harsh. Mine is on an R8 shank and I use it on a British made Adcock Shipley Bridgeport of 1968 vintage
Hello Peter, thanks for the view and this excellent comment. Glad you liked it and that you also have a set to use. Adcock and Shipley, that brings back memories of when I worked at Philips in the UK, we had those. How do the CNC Newbies stop cutters pulling out then, Weldon Holders I suppose ? Regards.
Thanks for another interesting video Dave. I've used a Clarkson chuck on a Bridge port at a model engineering evening class that I used to attend, it's a very good system. Finding a MT2 chuck for my small bench top Mill might be difficult but searching ebay is not exactly hard work. Best wishes, Stephen.
Dave, Interesting explanation of the Auto-Lock system. Not at all common in the US. My small mill uses 2 Morse tooling, and I have Weldon shank end mill holders in the 4 normal sizes that my mill will use, (3/16, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8) so I very seldom use collets in the mill. Very seldom see the auto lock threaded endmills over here.
Hello Jim, thanks for the view and your comment. I thought that might be the case as Mr Pete did not mention them at all, that was why I put out this video just to let people know that there were other systems around the World. Regards.
Hi Dave great video as always mate. I learnt and pretty much did all manual milling through out my apprenticeship using autolocks. I have put together over the past years a complete set of collets and ISO 40 clarkson holder just need the storage box now. I set up the cutter a little different to you I back it off the center point a few turns before tightening it so the cutter doesn't screw up and force the center point into the cutter and split it down the middle. What are your thoughts have you ever cracked a cutter down the middle tightening it on to the point?
HI and thanks for your excellent comment. I have never split one, but I do have 2 or 3 that have been split. They were amongst my Fathers tools and were only 1/4 inch diameter. The only drawback with your setup that I can see is that the cutter, although tightened is only done so due to the collet being forced down onto the end of the collet driving lugs. Usually the lugs are for driving the collet and not used as a tightening device on their ends. Still I suppose if it works for you, carry on, but your way is not the Official Clarkson way of doing it. The other thing too is that the cutter still has the possibility to rotate, and would screw up and change your cut height. Luckily in the upward move. Thanks for the view. Regards.
Short of the mega dollar hydraulic Chucks or Shrink fits these are the only reliable chucks that always run true and never pull out. Their accuracy is far better than any other of the collets available. Only problem is you cant use modern solid carbide. I would also say well over 60% of people I have seen use them in a commercial enviroment do it wrong.
Thanks for the view and comment. Yes good old English Technology, As you say the next best to shrink tooling and the Weldon System. Probably not enough quantity needed for them to grind the threads onto carbide shank endmills. Best Wishes.
I would like to make a threaded end on a 6mm rod to insert into a Clarkson collet with a needle point at the other end to use as centre location device. Do you know what is the thread pitch and is a die readily available?
Hello Andrew, thanks for the view and question. The thread is 6 mm X 1.25 mm pitch. Split dies are available, but you may have to search hard. Ebay Australia has none. A google search shows them in the USA at about $ 25 plus postage. The 1/4" endmills have a 1/4 X 20 Thread ( whitworth ) I have just tried a nut on a 6 mm endmill and it goes on but a loose fit. If you have a split 1/4 X 20 die, close it down and use that, only 0.015" smaller. The other option is if you have a lathe and metric gears you could screw cut it. Good luck. Regards.
Hi, useful video, but you are dealing here with the Clarkson auto lock system. You seem to be confusing this with the Clarkson Dedlock (correct spelling) system which is for holding shell mills on a multi-start thread - a completely different animal..! All the best.
Hello Aidan, Thanks for the view and your comment. Was wondering how long it would take for someone to spot the error 😊. Well done, sorry finger trouble on my part, the box says autolock and I know it as same, just got it wrong when doing the title. Thanks again. Regards.
Hello and thanks for the view and question. Now depending where you are in the World will depend on you finding some. They are ENGLISH made. In England you can buy them new and used. They are available in Imperial and Metric. They also come in 2 sizes Small and large, check out your spindle size. Available holders in R 8, MT2, MT3, Int 30 and Int 40. Drop me an email with what you are looking for and where you are in the World and I will send you some eBay links to sellers. davesozzyworkshop@gmail.com Regards.
Here is a UK eBay link to show what is currently available Regards www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2553889.m570.l1313&_nkw=clarkson+collets&_sacat=0
@@daveticehurst4191 hey Dave I’m in Australia and currently trying wrap my head around all the difference size standards. I’ll send you an email, maybe check your junk. Cheers Jacob
@@daveticehurst4191 Bought from the importer (in this case Chester) they are still not cheap, but I was lucky to pick mine up on ebay second hand and apparently unused for £10 with a set of metric collets. It has proved to be an excellent buy.
There is a Taiwanese-made copy of this system made by Vertex and available in MT3 or MT2 holders. It marketed as Posi-Lock but uses the same system and Clarkson-style cutters. They have 4 collets each in metric and imperial shank sizes. I bought a set 20+ years ago and it has served me well. Just for info in case anyone cannot find original and complete Clarkson sets.
Hello Ian, thanks for watching and this excellent information that 'Copies" can be purchased, I'm sure someone will find this useful. E-bay had a few genuine Clarkson ones listed. Managed to buy an almost unused int 30 one for a friend a few weeks back. Regards.
Nah, common mistake, but Posilock and Autolock collets and chucks are incompatible with each other. I have an Osborn (old British company) Titanic II collet chuck which uses Posilock collets (I don't know if Osborn were the originators of the Posilock system) and there's no way the collets would fit in a Clarkson Autolock chuck.
This is the Clarkson Autolock system - the Clarkson Dedlock system is something else which was designed for much larger cutters. Also, you’re assembling it incorrectly. The nose and appropriate size collet are screwed into the body first without the cutter. The nose is screwed into the body finger tight leaving no gap, then the cutter is finally screwed into the assembly. Leaving a gap as demonstrated can result in burst cutter centres, especially on the smaller 6mm (or 1/4”) shank sizes. Very good system, been using these for 45 years. Unfortunately, their correct usage is often misunderstood. 🇬🇧
Hello Paul, thanks for the view and comment. I misspoke when I called it the Deadlock system, the title of the video is correct. With regards to your comment about me not using the assembly correctly, I am afraid to disagree with your comment about total closure of the collet nut. I was taught 50 Years ago to leave a slight gap and use a spanner. I have googled the user instructions from Clarkson and it states, insert the collet into the nut and screw it in to ALMOST touch. Insert the cutter finger tight, finish with a slight turn with the spanner. In 50 odd Years I have only ever seen 2 cutters break out the center end and they were both 1/4 inch cutters. With you method of fully closing the nut to the holder and only screwing in the cutter finger tight will have initial problems. The cutter would really need a decent cut to make it rotate slightly to cause the collet to close up tighter, this would work ok if in fact you were going to do heavy cuts to rough out the part. However if you were just going to say skim of 5 thou off the part, the cutter would in no way be tight enough to clamp the collet tightly. There would be the risk of when you stop the spindle, especially if you used a spindle brake, of the collet nut unscrewing and releasing the cutter into the part should it still be under the cutter. Thanks again. Regards.
Just got one of these collets today off a local trading site, came with a good range of imperial and metric collets too, Im wrapped, such a neat system
Thanks for watching. I hope that you will get many, many happy hours using them. No fear of the cutter pulling out under load and damaging the vice or table. Regards.
Thanks for that. If I recall the auto lock also has the feature of winding the outer collar up against the spindle to stabilise the cutter. Came here from andrew whale recommendation.
Hello Jeffrey, thanks for the view and the Subscription. Yes you are correct about the Morse taper versions having a collar. It was threaded left hand and did two functions, firstly it did add extra support to the holder, but it's real function was to get the holder to eject easily from the Morse spindle. Place a peg spanner in the supplied holes, lock the spindle release the draw bolt and rotate clockwise. Saved having to bang on the draw bolt to eject it and save damaging the spindle bearings. Regards.
Clarkson only ever fitted these stabilising collars to the Autolocks with small machine tapers such as MT2.
In use, the lateral cutting force can overwhelm the rigidity of the small diameter of MT2, so Clarkson added these reinforcement collars which could be screwed back against the machine spindle to increase stability.
They weren’t required on MT3, R8 or larger Autolocks
🇬🇧
Genialne rozwiązanie, fajnie że dzielisz się wiedzą i udestępnionasz filmy na tym kanale, dziekuję i pozdrawiam serdecznie Mateusz
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your comment too. Need to get the old knowledge out to the youngsters of today, especially as some schools have stopped teaching the mechanical trades and tend to go for computer subjects and such like. Regards.
Hello Dave,
Great video and very well explained... I think I will get one for my milling machine as I was not aware they were made with morse taper shanks...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul. if your machine is a MT 3. Here is a link to one on ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325242102376?hash=item4bb9f0a268:g:1~kAAOSwtQpitHpa Thanks for watching. Regards
@@daveticehurst4191 Thanks Dave... mine is an MT2... Given time one will appear.
Hi Dave . I cut my teeth on Autolock and Deadlock chucks . I still have a couple , even a C type ! The Deadlock i reckon is still the best system for large endmills like 2'' & face mill cutters . Most people have problems with cutters drifting , esp the ER system is they do not realise how tight the things are supposed to be .
The only issue i found if you leave that big gap with the nut , you can split the ass of the cutter in half . 👍
Hello Max, thanks for the view and your excellent comment. Gap issue duly noted, although I have never split a cutter. I have about 4 in my drawer that are split, but they came from my Dad's tools and they are 1/4 inch ones too. Regards.
I never knew such a system existed. Thank you.
Hi Roy, glad you found it of interest. They say that you learn something every day 😊 Thanks for watching. Regards.
Yet another great nugget of machining know how. I’m learning so much from your channel. Thanks
Hello William, Glad to hear it, if you know something useful pass it onto the new people before it gets forgotten about. That the good thing about YT, hopefully their servers will keep this information for the next generation. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Thanks Dave , I’ve so many questions about engineering bits and pieces and you’re answering them one by one …
Great videos .
:-)
Hello Nick, Thanks for the view. Please feel free to personally E-mail me with any specific questions and I can hopefully answer them and send any instruction and pictures back to you. Regards.
Hi Dave - just a couple of things - like you I used to leave a gap on the nose bush and nip it up with the wrench but thats what splits the cutter - one day I read the clarkson instructions and I had been doing it wrong for years
What you are supposed to do is wind the bush holding the collet in until it touches the holder body then wind in the cutter and like you said this push the collet into the holder and locks it - this also prevents and improves cutter run out the wrench is only used to take the cutter and bush out because as soon as the cutter starts cutting it locks tight
the second thing the deadlock cutter system clarkson made for the shell mills used cap screws to untighten the collar - you could do a video on the deadlock system because I have trouble figgering it out - I know the shell mill cutter's had a thread in them and again they tightened when cutting
just for interest because the shell mills only work in clarkson holder's and would be expensive and hard to find
you could also do a video on clarkson FC - 3 cutter's and holder's
I have waffled enough
Thanks Dave I enjoy your video's and your knowledge
Laurie
Hi Laurie. Thanks for the view and your comment. I was doing the clamping spanner job on the cutters because that was what I was shown as an apprentice in 1966. 😊 As they say we all can learn from our mistakes. Thanks about the FC -3 cutters and holders. Although I do have some cutters which I hold in the ER collets, I only have a 6 mm Fc - 3 holder on a W 20 shank for my Aciera High Speed milling / drilling head. Regards.
I love my Clarkson Autolok chuck... bought it new 40 years ago and it was SPENDY !! .... but it has paid for itself many many times over...
If I have one complaint its that the holder is large to the point of getting in the way sometimes... 😎👍☘️🍺
Hello Peter, Yes I agree a bit bulky at times, but at least the cutters do not pull out and ruin the work or damage your table. Thanks for the view and comment. Regards.
Well you've done it again. Another interesting tool system I've never seen. Keep up the good work! Tc from Iowa, Mike
Hi Mike, Thanks, will do, getting a bit short of ideas, will sit and ponder some more. Never even thought about doing it until say Mr Pete's video on cutter pull out. Regards.
Hi Dave. Yes I do have a few of that style end mills etc. You must have read my mind, I did wonder what system it was from. Thank you. 👍
Hello Ricky, well that's another satisfied viewer then 😊 Glad you enjoyed it. Regards.
Well done Dave
Hi Crispin, Thanks for the view. Regards.
Hi Dave, have used plenty of the Autolock in my past but never come across the holders for the other version you showed. Seen a few of the collets with the twin dogs on but never knew what they fitted. Another one of life's mysteries solved. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, See, you can teach a "Not So Old Person" New Tricks.😊 Would you use a holder if I got you one. Int 30 of course 😊 Thanks for watching. Regards.
The Clarkson Autolocks with the “dogged” collets are the original Type C design. They were superseded by the Type S in the early 70s which have collets with flats; they are much more common and superior in operation.
Gday Dave, definitely a really good setup, I use many of these end mills but only use ER Collets, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Hi Matty, thanks for the view. Regards.
Thanks! I had a box of these bits given to me and we were wondering how they worked.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Another great video , was nice to hear someone talking favourably of the clarkson tool holder I’m lucky enough to own one with a large selection of collets and some end mills etc and iv found it a rather nice thing to work with I like it however I’m only a hobby machinist largely self taught / u tube taught so don’t have much authority to say so.
The two experienced “new school” type cnc machinists at work both say it’s “rubbish system from the dinosaur age” I feel this is a bit harsh.
Mine is on an R8 shank and I use it on a British made Adcock Shipley Bridgeport of 1968 vintage
Hello Peter, thanks for the view and this excellent comment. Glad you liked it and that you also have a set to use. Adcock and Shipley, that brings back memories of when I worked at Philips in the UK, we had those. How do the CNC Newbies stop cutters pulling out then, Weldon Holders I suppose ? Regards.
Hi Dave. Well explained. There's always plenty for sale in the UK relatively inexpensive on the second hand market. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for watching. Regards.
Thanks for another interesting video Dave. I've used a Clarkson chuck on a Bridge port at a model engineering evening class that I used to attend, it's a very good system. Finding a MT2 chuck for my small bench top Mill might be difficult but searching ebay is not exactly hard work. Best wishes, Stephen.
Sounds great Steven, good luck searching. Thanks for watching. Regards.
Hi Steven here is a link to one. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403732099732?hash=item5e004ef294:g:thsAAOSw2rRisvSf
@@daveticehurst4191 Thanks very much Dave, duly purchased.
@@stephenbrown1143 Glad I could help. Enjoy. Regards.
Dave, thanks for the review. Have a great day!
Thanks, you too. Regards.
Dave, Interesting explanation of the Auto-Lock system. Not at all common in the US. My small mill uses 2 Morse tooling, and I have Weldon shank end mill holders in the 4 normal sizes that my mill will use, (3/16, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8) so I very seldom use collets in the mill. Very seldom see the auto lock threaded endmills over here.
Hello Jim, thanks for the view and your comment. I thought that might be the case as Mr Pete did not mention them at all, that was why I put out this video just to let people know that there were other systems around the World. Regards.
Hi Dave great video as always mate. I learnt and pretty much did all manual milling through out my apprenticeship using autolocks. I have put together over the past years a complete set of collets and ISO 40 clarkson holder just need the storage box now. I set up the cutter a little different to you I back it off the center point a few turns before tightening it so the cutter doesn't screw up and force the center point into the cutter and split it down the middle. What are your thoughts have you ever cracked a cutter down the middle tightening it on to the point?
HI and thanks for your excellent comment. I have never split one, but I do have 2 or 3 that have been split. They were amongst my Fathers tools and were only 1/4 inch diameter. The only drawback with your setup that I can see is that the cutter, although tightened is only done so due to the collet being forced down onto the end of the collet driving lugs. Usually the lugs are for driving the collet and not used as a tightening device on their ends. Still I suppose if it works for you, carry on, but your way is not the Official Clarkson way of doing it. The other thing too is that the cutter still has the possibility to rotate, and would screw up and change your cut height. Luckily in the upward move. Thanks for the view. Regards.
Thanks Dave I'll check it out. Keep the good old stuff coming. Cheers
Short of the mega dollar hydraulic Chucks or Shrink fits these are the only reliable chucks that always run true and never pull out. Their accuracy is far better than any other of the collets available. Only problem is you cant use modern solid carbide. I would also say well over 60% of people I have seen use them in a commercial enviroment do it wrong.
Thanks for the view and comment. Yes good old English Technology, As you say the next best to shrink tooling and the Weldon System. Probably not enough quantity needed for them to grind the threads onto carbide shank endmills. Best Wishes.
I would like to make a threaded end on a 6mm rod to insert into a Clarkson collet with a needle point at the other end to use as centre location device. Do you know what is the thread pitch and is a die readily available?
Hello Andrew, thanks for the view and question. The thread is 6 mm X 1.25 mm pitch. Split dies are available, but you may have to search hard. Ebay Australia has none. A google search shows them in the USA at about $ 25 plus postage. The 1/4" endmills have a 1/4 X 20 Thread ( whitworth ) I have just tried a nut on a 6 mm endmill and it goes on but a loose fit. If you have a split 1/4 X 20 die, close it down and use that, only 0.015" smaller. The other option is if you have a lathe and metric gears you could screw cut it. Good luck. Regards.
All Clarkson cutters/collets irrespective of diameter are 20TPI - including the metric versions!
Hi, useful video, but you are dealing here with the Clarkson auto lock system. You seem to be confusing this with the Clarkson Dedlock (correct spelling) system which is for holding shell mills on a multi-start thread - a completely different animal..! All the best.
Hello Aidan, Thanks for the view and your comment. Was wondering how long it would take for someone to spot the error 😊. Well done, sorry finger trouble on my part, the box says autolock and I know it as same, just got it wrong when doing the title. Thanks again. Regards.
Hey Dave if I were to look for these types of collets to buy, what would I call them? Are they available new or are they too old?
Hello and thanks for the view and question. Now depending where you are in the World will depend on you finding some. They are ENGLISH made. In England you can buy them new and used. They are available in Imperial and Metric. They also come in 2 sizes Small and large, check out your spindle size. Available holders in R 8, MT2, MT3, Int 30 and Int 40. Drop me an email with what you are looking for and where you are in the World and I will send you some eBay links to sellers. davesozzyworkshop@gmail.com Regards.
Here is a UK eBay link to show what is currently available Regards
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2553889.m570.l1313&_nkw=clarkson+collets&_sacat=0
@@daveticehurst4191 hey Dave I’m in Australia and currently trying wrap my head around all the difference size standards. I’ll send you an email, maybe check your junk. Cheers Jacob
I have a Far East clone marketed by Chester in the UK. Excellent system. I now wouldn't use anything else.
Thanks for that. You are the second person to say that "Overseas" copies are now available. Regards.
@@daveticehurst4191 Bought from the importer (in this case Chester) they are still not cheap, but I was lucky to pick mine up on ebay second hand and apparently unused for £10 with a set of metric collets. It has proved to be an excellent buy.
There is a Taiwanese-made copy of this system made by Vertex and available in MT3 or MT2 holders. It marketed as Posi-Lock but uses the same system and Clarkson-style cutters. They have 4 collets each in metric and imperial shank sizes. I bought a set 20+ years ago and it has served me well. Just for info in case anyone cannot find original and complete Clarkson sets.
Hello Ian, thanks for watching and this excellent information that 'Copies" can be purchased, I'm sure someone will find this useful. E-bay had a few genuine Clarkson ones listed. Managed to buy an almost unused int 30 one for a friend a few weeks back. Regards.
Nah, common mistake, but Posilock and Autolock collets and chucks are incompatible with each other.
I have an Osborn (old British company) Titanic II collet chuck which uses Posilock collets (I don't know if Osborn were the originators of the Posilock system) and there's no way the collets would fit in a Clarkson Autolock chuck.
This is the Clarkson Autolock system - the Clarkson Dedlock system is something else which was designed for much larger cutters.
Also, you’re assembling it incorrectly. The nose and appropriate size collet are screwed into the body first without the cutter. The nose is screwed into the body finger tight leaving no gap, then the cutter is finally screwed into the assembly.
Leaving a gap as demonstrated can result in burst cutter centres, especially on the smaller 6mm (or 1/4”) shank sizes.
Very good system, been using these for 45 years. Unfortunately, their correct usage is often misunderstood.
🇬🇧
Hello Paul, thanks for the view and comment. I misspoke when I called it the Deadlock system, the title of the video is correct. With regards to your comment about me not using the assembly correctly, I am afraid to disagree with your comment about total closure of the collet nut. I was taught 50 Years ago to leave a slight gap and use a spanner. I have googled the user instructions from Clarkson and it states, insert the collet into the nut and screw it in to ALMOST touch. Insert the cutter finger tight, finish with a slight turn with the spanner. In 50 odd Years I have only ever seen 2 cutters break out the center end and they were both 1/4 inch cutters. With you method of fully closing the nut to the holder and only screwing in the cutter finger tight will have initial problems. The cutter would really need a decent cut to make it rotate slightly to cause the collet to close up tighter, this would work ok if in fact you were going to do heavy cuts to rough out the part. However if you were just going to say skim of 5 thou off the part, the cutter would in no way be tight enough to clamp the collet tightly. There would be the risk of when you stop the spindle, especially if you used a spindle brake, of the collet nut unscrewing and releasing the cutter into the part should it still be under the cutter. Thanks again. Regards.
L
Thanks for watching. I hope that you found the video useful. Regards.