Tell your buddy to get a 0.2mm nozzle bit and he will be able to print at a layer height of 0.08mm. it takes bloody forever to print but it looks much better. Also a thin coat of a sandable primer really helps make those layer lines disappear
I feel you: I had a friend of mine 3D print me a couple of tanks for 40k. Platsering and sandpapering the first one was so long and painful that the second one has been waiting for six months now.
No offense to this guy's pal, but the tech is already there, the issue 99 times out of a hundred is people don't put in the initial work to calibrate the machines and run the cheapest, nastiest filament they can find on Amazon through them. An extra hour of effort while assembling the machine to ensure it's absolutely true, level, and everything is appropriately tightened, and a few additional minutes to run some temp and extrusion calibration tests when you start using a given filament(they'll all have very slightly different properties, even buying the same brand a few months apart) saves hours upon hours of frustration and post-processing work later. And that's before you consider upgrades for the machine you can print out yourself to enhance it like better fan shrouds to improve bridging & adjustable-fixed bed supports so that once you level the bed it stays level pretty much forever unless you move the machine, or the fact you can go all the way down to 0.08mm layer height with a 0.2mm diameter nozzle on a machine like the Ender 3(providing you're prepared to wait a fair wee while for the prints to finish of course :P). FDM isn't resin by any stretch, but a properly calibrated machine with the right slicer settings and affordable but not bargain-bin filament should generate prints that don't require anything more than a coat or two of spray automotive filler primer and the occasional bit of sanding and putty to deal with support removal blemishes to be ready for paint.
to smooth out piece printed on an fdm, i recommand using an inverted aquarium and a rag dipped in acetone. should only take a few minutes, the acetone vapors will melt the plastic just a little and should get rid of any rugged surface. you can finish the rest by hand afterwards.
I think something that is really important to remember here is that its a failed print. that by no means is an accurate example of what can be accomplished by an fdm printer (even the cheap ender 3 is capable of some incredibly clean prints). but, even being a failed print has turned out fantastically for a terrain piece.
@@Zorpazorp I realize this is a year old video and your experience and opinion might be completely different now, but... that print quality is really bad and isn't a great indicator of what it would be like to work with even average quality FDM prints. I'm not talking about it being a failed print, but the parts that are successful are bad. Printing model prints at anything bigger than .15 mm layer heights is a waste of time in my opinion. And two layers of a spray can filler primer or XTC epoxy can do wonders to hide layer lines, but you might not need any post processing if you print at a low enough layer height. Hell, you can do decent 28mm miniatures if you buy a .15 mm nozzle and do .5 mm layer heights if you can't afford both a resin and FDM printer.
I like the idea of printing stuff like that rather than printing whole minis. I've always wanted to trash minis for terrain but the price has always held me back. Sometimes you can get lucky on Ebay with a bag of bits, but this is better.
I'd be interested to see if XTC-3D would make a difference in this. Post-processing prints has been a pain for me, but I'm just now getting into miniatures (and painting them) and it seems like there is potential for FDM machines to make good product
@@Zorpazorp Something I've found to be really good is designs that are intended for printing, because a lot of the pain comes from parts being designed (or ripped from games and other sources) without any work done on them to reduce faceting or make them print better
You can try printing ABS and smooth it with acetone vapour. Prusa have video on this and pretty cheap printers as well. Definitely gets rid of printing lines but you loose a bit of detail as well.
The printed pieces save a lot of time when using it as wreckage. Filling the panels out is good idea. Maybe making flack damage on the panels might save some time. I hate bashing a good kit for terrain. Your results with what you were working with are excellent.
Really enjoyed this video Zorpy, the destroyed gun ship was a very nice touch to the game board and would like to replicate this one day since I have a Ender 3 and Ender 5 plus. It is a pitty the file is now gone though :(
@@pepebabushki9376 Often the action figue stuff is actually the wrong scale to the 3.5: figs ahha, I just pickedd up ATTE, Spdier droid and Hailfire that are all perfect for legio nthat were released as action figure scale toys haha
I have access to an fdm 3D printer at my university and i've been really been wanting to try to make some terrain. Really curious to see what i can do with my own gunship!
Get a Elegoo Saturn / Anycubic Photon Mono X. They're pretty damn cheap(it's like 2-3 cases of GW terrain before they've paid them selves back ;) ). I am using it for terrain and other parts, and you can't beat resin. With a print height between 0.03-0.05mm the finished results are nearly as clean as GW sets.
It's just the price for me man. I need to print probably 20-30 tables worth of terrain. That gets expensive in both time and money, so I'll eventually go much bigger I think so I can print a bunch at once but I don't have the space for it till I move to the new studio. Hmmm lots to think about so many optioins haha. Those might be great for the interim!
@@Zorpazorp If it's load of duplicate terrain, you could resin print(or FDM print), silicone mold and then resin cast them. It's cheaper than printing each one and you only do the worst post processing on the master piece.
@@Blanced Yeah I've done a lot of casting in my day, and I guess the whole appeal of printing to me is it's meant to be push a button and terrain appears haha. Casting is a lot of work! But nothing is ever so easy haha
just got into the game, when you have a core unit like b1 droids what's the max number of units you can have. Does weapon upgraded add a new unit?? Another example is the death trooper doesnt have a personal upgraded but a weapon upgraded , is the max number 4 or is it 6 represting the 2 weapon upgradeds????
B1 droids start with 6 i ntheir unit, then you can give them a single heavy weapon upgrade and personnel indicated by the slots on the left side of the card. So even though each box comes with 9, you will have a model left over :) I'm not sur eon death troopers, but it's the same principle, look at the symbols o nthe side :)
I mean... If you are gonna fill and sand the whole thing by hand it's going to take 10 times longer than just printing at a smaller layer height If you want to smooth the lines that visible you are better off printing with abs and using an acetone vapor bath
Look up 2ndDynasty on Kickstarter, His Spaceships are designed for 3D printing and show what you can get out of the tool, even without pushing the printer. Those ender3 prints were really bad btw, you can make it to the point you won't need to sand without much effort.
you can also use oil paints dilluted with white spirits to make your own washes, for panel lining they are great because of the capillary action making it efortless and quick, the added benefit is if you got it in the wrong place you can clean it up entirely just by brushing some white spirits.
That looks great bud! I'm actually not that fussed on 3d printing minis due to the layering etc but for terrain it's definitely catching my eye and this is giving me way too many expensive thoughts! 😂
The print quality of the ship is definitely not representative of the quality of printing FDM can achieve. This ship looked like that ender needed some serious calibration.
I agree. The overhangs and the generally quality of the layers really does not do justice to what an FDM printer can do. If you wantched this video and didn't like the initial quality of the yellow-green plastic, please know that better results can be achieved. Now, if you look at a resin printer - the quality will sky rocket and the entry point for these is around the same as a basic FDM printer.
I have been interested to get a 3d printer myself but the cost and knowledge needed have always put me off. Which is sad, as you can do quite a lot with that stuff. Good video as usual.
@@Zorpazorp you do not put them into an aceton bath, that will alway ruin a part on the print...it needs to be a mist of aceton. There are good tutorials on the net on how to build a box for that and especially the needed savety measures you have to take...if you do not have or want to spend the money for an entry lvl maschine that comes around 2000$ Or you simply get a resin printer and have no longer to deal with layer lines...
Just beacuse of your videos I start paiting my miniatures, I've been following all your tutorials videos and they're amazing man. Please tell me you're going to paint some arc troopers, I really want to see a tutorial of those. Greetins from Mexico !
Looks fantastic mate! Small thing, the STL isn't a freebee, its by an awesome creator called Darkfire Designs, if it was available on Thingi it was probably removed for being shared against the terms of the licence. It definitely should print properly as I've made 3 of them and they come out great! :)
This is really cool. I am planning on doing something similar for my World War III: Team Yankee terrain. I bought a to scale F-15 and I am gonna make a crash site that will serve as a terrain piece. This video has been really informative on how to make something like that.
A hands free smoothing technique is to drop your prints in a sealed container alongside an open cup of acetone. The fumes from the acetone will fill the container and smooth your layer lines out overnight. Just be sure the cup isn't plastic or you'll wake up to a terrible mess.
It'll be a layer height of 0.2mm rather than 2mm. Most FDM printers can actually go down to a layer height of 0.04mm, but you get diminishing returns compared to 0.08mm. I did some experiments in printing epic minis at very fine layer heights if you are interested. imgur.com/gallery/e8nJZ12
It’s just way too much work to putty and sand those layer lines. I have several Legion buildings that I bought off Etsy and I’m using auto primer on them. I’ll still have a time getting them to look decent. I just don’t have time to clean 3D prints up. So I think the technology has room to improve.
2mm layer height is huge.... Also for putty and such surface fixing try Marco Frisoni's millibutter. Donut of Milliput and IPA. Then just brush it on. Wonderful smooth surface. Also check out 3D Gloop. www.3dgloop.com
@@Zorpazorp You're welcome. You can't texture with millibutter, but you can decide what level of cover you want by how liquid you make it. So use modeling putty first and hide the roughness and rest of the marks with the butter. 3D Gloop should also be something you can airbrush on. Funnily enough I saw Make Anything's 2 year old video about it right after yours. Looked pretty good. :)
@@Zorpazorp Good plan! it opens a whole new world of all kinds of awesome stuff for tabletop :) Get a cheap sonic cleaner with your printer otherwise you have to clean the stuff yourself...which is messy no fun part...the sonic cleaner gets rid of that.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
I couldn't take my eyes off this piece during that whole batrep. What an awesome thing to have.
Cheers mate!
Tell your buddy to get a 0.2mm nozzle bit and he will be able to print at a layer height of 0.08mm. it takes bloody forever to print but it looks much better. Also a thin coat of a sandable primer really helps make those layer lines disappear
Thanks mate will do!
I feel you: I had a friend of mine 3D print me a couple of tanks for 40k. Platsering and sandpapering the first one was so long and painful that the second one has been waiting for six months now.
Hopefully the tech gets better! Tank size stuff is gbetter i n resin I think :)
No offense to this guy's pal, but the tech is already there, the issue 99 times out of a hundred is people don't put in the initial work to calibrate the machines and run the cheapest, nastiest filament they can find on Amazon through them. An extra hour of effort while assembling the machine to ensure it's absolutely true, level, and everything is appropriately tightened, and a few additional minutes to run some temp and extrusion calibration tests when you start using a given filament(they'll all have very slightly different properties, even buying the same brand a few months apart) saves hours upon hours of frustration and post-processing work later.
And that's before you consider upgrades for the machine you can print out yourself to enhance it like better fan shrouds to improve bridging & adjustable-fixed bed supports so that once you level the bed it stays level pretty much forever unless you move the machine, or the fact you can go all the way down to 0.08mm layer height with a 0.2mm diameter nozzle on a machine like the Ender 3(providing you're prepared to wait a fair wee while for the prints to finish of course :P).
FDM isn't resin by any stretch, but a properly calibrated machine with the right slicer settings and affordable but not bargain-bin filament should generate prints that don't require anything more than a coat or two of spray automotive filler primer and the occasional bit of sanding and putty to deal with support removal blemishes to be ready for paint.
I own one ender 3 and it can even go up to 0,05 on stock 0,4 nozzle on custom settings so it's very easy to print minis that look good
Awesome!
Ahhh man, layer lines!!!!! My pet hte, looked ace on the table though Lachie
Yeah I fucking hate them haha
If you hadn't explained it here I would have never known it was a marker for the reactor parts. Damn you're good. And Merry Christmas to you too.
Thanks man!
to smooth out piece printed on an fdm, i recommand using an inverted aquarium and a rag dipped in acetone. should only take a few minutes, the acetone vapors will melt the plastic just a little and should get rid of any rugged surface. you can finish the rest by hand afterwards.
Great suggestion!
I think something that is really important to remember here is that its a failed print. that by no means is an accurate example of what can be accomplished by an fdm printer (even the cheap ender 3 is capable of some incredibly clean prints). but, even being a failed print has turned out fantastically for a terrain piece.
Yeah 100%! I'm really excited to see what else can be achieved!
If only you were able to get your hands on an ender 3, could do your own review video and show just how great they can be.
@@kgage88 ;)
@@Zorpazorp I realize this is a year old video and your experience and opinion might be completely different now, but... that print quality is really bad and isn't a great indicator of what it would be like to work with even average quality FDM prints. I'm not talking about it being a failed print, but the parts that are successful are bad. Printing model prints at anything bigger than .15 mm layer heights is a waste of time in my opinion.
And two layers of a spray can filler primer or XTC epoxy can do wonders to hide layer lines, but you might not need any post processing if you print at a low enough layer height. Hell, you can do decent 28mm miniatures if you buy a .15 mm nozzle and do .5 mm layer heights if you can't afford both a resin and FDM printer.
Using the basing mix as a weathering powder is a fantastic idea! Great result.
Thank you! Cheers!
I like the idea of printing stuff like that rather than printing whole minis. I've always wanted to trash minis for terrain but the price has always held me back. Sometimes you can get lucky on Ebay with a bag of bits, but this is better.
It's a very cool tool!
I'd be interested to see if XTC-3D would make a difference in this. Post-processing prints has been a pain for me, but I'm just now getting into miniatures (and painting them) and it seems like there is potential for FDM machines to make good product
Yeah definite potential! I'm keen to keep digging!
@@Zorpazorp Something I've found to be really good is designs that are intended for printing, because a lot of the pain comes from parts being designed (or ripped from games and other sources) without any work done on them to reduce faceting or make them print better
You can try printing ABS and smooth it with acetone vapour. Prusa have video on this and pretty cheap printers as well. Definitely gets rid of printing lines but you loose a bit of detail as well.
Thanks mate! Will check that out :)
The printed pieces save a lot of time when using it as wreckage. Filling the panels out is good idea. Maybe making flack damage on the panels might save some time. I hate bashing a good kit for terrain. Your results with what you were working with are excellent.
Thanks Rick! Yeah they were pretty poor prints so it was a fun little challenge haha
Really enjoyed this video Zorpy, the destroyed gun ship was a very nice touch to the game board and would like to replicate this one day since I have a Ender 3 and Ender 5 plus.
It is a pitty the file is now gone though :(
Apparently there are some old toys around that might work for conversions but I haven't fully looked into it yet though!
Thanks though Nate
@@Zorpazorp I doubt they would, off the top of my head I've only ever seen action figure scale ships. 🤷♀️
@@pepebabushki9376 Often the action figue stuff is actually the wrong scale to the 3.5: figs ahha, I just pickedd up ATTE, Spdier droid and Hailfire that are all perfect for legio nthat were released as action figure scale toys haha
Next time try using car body spray filler paint. Add coats then sand back. Around 3 coats and sanding and your lines will be pretty much gone.
Good suggestion!
My wife just got me an FDM printer and sweet jesus am I excited for my terrain
Hell yeah Cody!
My cat walked across my desk at the same time as 8:12 , felt like watching the video in 4D haha. Great video, looks awesome!
Hahahaha HOLY SHIT that's hilarious
i don't really watch Star Wars Legion but man... It looks dope. I love the crashed gunship effect! Looks great.
Merry Christmas to all :D
Thanks, you too!
Finally 😂 I love this video the LAAT is amazing
Thanks dude!
I have access to an fdm 3D printer at my university and i've been really been wanting to try to make some terrain. Really curious to see what i can do with my own gunship!
Ooh exciting stuff, enjoy!
Are you gonna do a tutorial video for Dooku and Rex?
Already did Dooku mate check the Legion playlist.
Get a Elegoo Saturn / Anycubic Photon Mono X. They're pretty damn cheap(it's like 2-3 cases of GW terrain before they've paid them selves back ;) ).
I am using it for terrain and other parts, and you can't beat resin. With a print height between 0.03-0.05mm the finished results are nearly as clean as GW sets.
It's just the price for me man. I need to print probably 20-30 tables worth of terrain. That gets expensive in both time and money, so I'll eventually go much bigger I think so I can print a bunch at once but I don't have the space for it till I move to the new studio. Hmmm lots to think about so many optioins haha. Those might be great for the interim!
@@Zorpazorp If it's load of duplicate terrain, you could resin print(or FDM print), silicone mold and then resin cast them. It's cheaper than printing each one and you only do the worst post processing on the master piece.
@@Blanced Yeah I've done a lot of casting in my day, and I guess the whole appeal of printing to me is it's meant to be push a button and terrain appears haha. Casting is a lot of work!
But nothing is ever so easy haha
just got into the game, when you have a core unit like b1 droids what's the max number of units you can have. Does weapon upgraded add a new unit?? Another example is the death trooper doesnt have a personal upgraded but a weapon upgraded , is the max number 4 or is it 6 represting the 2 weapon upgradeds????
B1 droids start with 6 i ntheir unit, then you can give them a single heavy weapon upgrade and personnel indicated by the slots on the left side of the card. So even though each box comes with 9, you will have a model left over :) I'm not sur eon death troopers, but it's the same principle, look at the symbols o nthe side :)
Great work bro, love this type of content.
Glad you enjoy it!
I mean... If you are gonna fill and sand the whole thing by hand it's going to take 10 times longer than just printing at a smaller layer height
If you want to smooth the lines that visible you are better off printing with abs and using an acetone vapor bath
Agreed! I'll definitely look into these vapour baths next time!
Look up 2ndDynasty on Kickstarter, His Spaceships are designed for 3D printing and show what you can get out of the tool, even without pushing the printer. Those ender3 prints were really bad btw, you can make it to the point you won't need to sand without much effort.
Oooh thanks mate will do!
You could try using one of the Gunpla panel line pens (or any black fin point pen) to speed the panel lining process up . Great vid!
Now that is clever thinking!
you can also use oil paints dilluted with white spirits to make your own washes, for panel lining they are great because of the capillary action making it efortless and quick, the added benefit is if you got it in the wrong place you can clean it up entirely just by brushing some white spirits.
@@Zickzag Yeah I had some Tamiya enamles there but couldn't be assed thinning it haha, Nuln oil was closer :D
www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/?coliid=I3CLQ1SWSM6IL2&colid=L38ODTXI23O&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Excellent project!
Thank you! Cheers!
I know you are busy as hell but Im just wondering if you have a rough date as to when part 3 of Geonosis debuts? I loved the first 2 installments.
Literally editing it now mate! give me two weeks roughly haha
@@Zorpazorp You are the best bro. Cant wait.
That looks great bud! I'm actually not that fussed on 3d printing minis due to the layering etc but for terrain it's definitely catching my eye and this is giving me way too many expensive thoughts! 😂
I know right haha, imagine what might be possible when I know what I'm doing!
@@Zorpazorp haha well I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
super cool build! unfortunate I don't have a 3D printer any longer.
Are there files anywhere of the LAAT with details? I found one on Thingiverse but it doesn't have panels detail
No idea sorry mate :)
Well done, sir!!!
Thank you kindly!
Cool! But you missed the guns at the front of the laat
YES! The video I’ve been waiting for since the last battle report. Thanks for making this
Hope you enjoyed it!
Merry Christmas dude. Thanks for the amazing content in 2020!
Thanks Dazza you're an absolute champion
Hope you and the family have a lovely festive season :)
The print quality of the ship is definitely not representative of the quality of printing FDM can achieve. This ship looked like that ender needed some serious calibration.
Indeed! I'm excited to see what can be achieved considering I actually managed to get this looking half decent!
I agree. The overhangs and the generally quality of the layers really does not do justice to what an FDM printer can do. If you wantched this video and didn't like the initial quality of the yellow-green plastic, please know that better results can be achieved.
Now, if you look at a resin printer - the quality will sky rocket and the entry point for these is around the same as a basic FDM printer.
@@pl21zback I said this several times in the video so I doubt anyone would think this is indicative :)
Loved the crashed gunship dude 😍 keen to see it flying around though and the AT-TE 😉
Dude hold on to your hat... I don't have a single ATTE coming in the mail.
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I have THREE.
Absolutely outstanding as ever!
Cheers GW :)
I have been interested to get a 3d printer myself but the cost and knowledge needed have always put me off. Which is sad, as you can do quite a lot with that stuff. Good video as usual.
Cheers mate, yeah it's a whole other world of expense I'm just not ready to dice into yet but maybe ones day.
Yeaher just picked up my dooku and rex I'm gonna try to craft the terrain piece/wreck because well I dont have a 3d printer
Ooooh be sure to ppost pics on our facey group!
Send me a link to the group plz
@@wolfling_conceptions415 Link in description :D
Did you try acetone baths to try and cut some time by softening those lines?
Oooh no I didn't I will have to next time!
@@Zorpazorp you do not put them into an aceton bath, that will alway ruin a part on the print...it needs to be a mist of aceton. There are good tutorials on the net on how to build a box for that and especially the needed savety measures you have to take...if you do not have or want to spend the money for an entry lvl maschine that comes around 2000$
Or you simply get a resin printer and have no longer to deal with layer lines...
Looks good man, i really want one now.
Haha thanks!
Love your vids, great content, easy to listen to and follow 👍
Much appreciated!
Did you guys mention where you got the STL for this? Looks awesome, I'd like to give it a shot myself!
My mate sent them to me using a free file that didn't really work on thingyverse and now isn't avail any more I believe.
Just beacuse of your videos I start paiting my miniatures, I've been following all your tutorials videos and they're amazing man. Please tell me you're going to paint some arc troopers, I really want to see a tutorial of those. Greetins from Mexico !
Arc Troopers will be done but not for a few months, need to finish season one of the campaign first
Can I ask how you made your Geonosis spires ?
Just from foam mate with a hot wire cutter :)
Good enough to crash is my motto when painting.
Hahahahahahaha that's gold
@8:12 damn we all got orange cats in this hobby? XD
Apparently haha
Looks fantastic mate! Small thing, the STL isn't a freebee, its by an awesome creator called Darkfire Designs, if it was available on Thingi it was probably removed for being shared against the terms of the licence. It definitely should print properly as I've made 3 of them and they come out great! :)
This is really cool. I am planning on doing something similar for my World War III: Team Yankee terrain. I bought a to scale F-15 and I am gonna make a crash site that will serve as a terrain piece. This video has been really informative on how to make something like that.
That sounds epic!!!
A hands free smoothing technique is to drop your prints in a sealed container alongside an open cup of acetone. The fumes from the acetone will fill the container and smooth your layer lines out overnight. Just be sure the cup isn't plastic or you'll wake up to a terrible mess.
That sounds b rilliant and so easy!
@@Zorpazorp but you need another filament type for it to work
Have you tried HP MJF 3D Printer? It has better look & feel finishes
Very cool.
Cheers GK!
nicework
Cheers!!!
The printer that made this needs some serious tuning.
Indeed haha
Please please do arc troopers!
They're sitting onthe shelf for season two!
reason why i use resin printers
Haha indeedc!
It'll be a layer height of 0.2mm rather than 2mm. Most FDM printers can actually go down to a layer height of 0.04mm, but you get diminishing returns compared to 0.08mm.
I did some experiments in printing epic minis at very fine layer heights if you are interested.
imgur.com/gallery/e8nJZ12
It’s just way too much work to putty and sand those layer lines. I have several Legion buildings that I bought off Etsy and I’m using auto primer on them. I’ll still have a time getting them to look decent. I just don’t have time to clean 3D prints up. So I think the technology has room to improve.
I agree but I also think these were pretty bad prints, so I'll be doing a follow up looking at better ones I think!
2mm layer height is huge.... Also for putty and such surface fixing try Marco Frisoni's millibutter. Donut of Milliput and IPA. Then just brush it on. Wonderful smooth surface. Also check out 3D Gloop. www.3dgloop.com
Ooooooh amazing suggestions thank you I'll check them out!
@@Zorpazorp You're welcome. You can't texture with millibutter, but you can decide what level of cover you want by how liquid you make it. So use modeling putty first and hide the roughness and rest of the marks with the butter.
3D Gloop should also be something you can airbrush on. Funnily enough I saw Make Anything's 2 year old video about it right after yours. Looked pretty good. :)
@@jaanikaapa6925 Lots of tricks to learn!!!
UV-resin printers are the way to go...
I love them for minis!
Zorpazorp, find some legion minis online (stls) and let me know what you want, I'll print some in resin and send them to you for free :)
That's really sweet dude! I'll let you know if any grab my eye :)
@@Zorpazorp sounds good my man :)
Its free STL files or paid?
He said it was free on thingiverse but he's not sure if it's available anymore because it had a lot of issues (barely printable)
Me mate sent me these bits but I don't believe this file is available, and it was free.
Random comment about the kitty
Franklin says thank you.
Uhm.. I think that's Luke's store?..
Actually I think that www.zorpazorp.com might jus tbe my store ;) But yes I do stock geek gaming!
Or you just get a Resin 3d Printer...
That's the plan!
@@Zorpazorp Good plan! it opens a whole new world of all kinds of awesome stuff for tabletop :) Get a cheap sonic cleaner with your printer otherwise you have to clean the stuff yourself...which is messy no fun part...the sonic cleaner gets rid of that.
@@Presbiter Ooh good advice man!
cat
cat indeeeeeeeed haha
Hollow your models and resin=cheap.