Ok on 5-17-2022 I finally successfully replaced my Oil pressure switch on my 2010 CTS 3.0L. I drove all winter without a working oil pressure sensor switch gauge. There were no engine check lights or trouble codes set. It just wasn't sending info to the guage. Hopefully this comment will save you the delay I ran into trying to "save time" as shown in the video. I am not a mechanic and worked behind a keyboard/screen most of my life. The money I save doing my own vehicle repair work more than pays for any tools that I have to buy to get the job done. Plus I get to resuse the tools I buy for other fixes. This job at the dealer will cost about $500, maybe more. You can do it within two hours (if you aren't too mechanically inclined) with the right tools and process. Faster, if you know what you are doing. Again, Having the right tools and process are a major part of doing this job corrrectly. Tools required 1.) 10-12 inch needle nose pliers to relase hose clamps. 90 deg. and straight. Harbor Freight 2.) Catch basin, or catch can/container fluid and drips 3.) Rags/papertowels/newspaper use to cover engine parts protect from fluid 4.) 18mm crowsfoot wrench fit 3/8 extension ( I used Neiko brand) use for highpressure line 5.) 3/8 Ratchet extensions (Harbor Freight) 6.) Oil pressure switch socket (www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1&pldnSite=1 ) 7.) 3/8 ratchet 8.) 3/8 Joint socket swivel ( www.amazon.com/Neiko-02486A-Impact-Universal-Socket/dp/B076FNN4C6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1) I bought similar at Harbor Freight 9.) Flat head screw driver (about 10 inches long) 10) Torque bit T25 ( needed for my vehicle to remove air filter box) Access engine air-filter 11.) Pint of powersteering Fluid designated for your vehicle refill 12.) OBII reader $22 (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1) 13.) Torque Lite Software for OBII reader (Free) Bluetooth download from appstore 14.) Flat Head Screw driver very small helps to remove connectors 15.) New Oil Pressure switch (Make sure it fits your vehicle) I bought ACDelco GM Original Equipment 12674782 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor from Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3VA9HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1 1st the video is very good (watch it, thumps up) and will help you to understand what I am saying below.The guy in the video did mention a few things that he would do different.. So below are a couple things I "had" to do differently than shown in the video. I recommend that you take pictures of the parts of your car using your phone so you can put it all back together. I used painters tape to label connectors. That way A goes back to A, and B to B, and so on. TIP Note: Spray the highpressure brake line nut with a little bit of rust/bolt penetrate fluid the night before. Don't overdo it. A little will do it. Let it soak in overnight. The nut will breakfree much easier. 1a.) Disconnect the sensor connections as shown in video except don't disconnect the oil pressure switch connection at this time. (too hard to reach). Label them. I did. Once things are cleared away it will be much easier to disconnect the sensor cable. 1b.)Take out the engine air filter box as shown in the video. You will need the room to work. 2a.) Drain the power steering fluid reservoir using a turkey baster or tool of choice. Most likey you are overdue for a fluid change anyways. 2b.) Disconnect the larger rubber hose attached to the power steering Fluid reservoir. It's in the way. **Note: Before you disconnect it place newpaper and rags to cover your serpentine belt and parts below the reservoir. Have a small plastic container or small soup can ready to catch the few ounces that are still left in the reservoir. I used inexpensive needle-nose pliers about 10-12 inches in length that had a 90degree bend near the tip that came from Harbor Freight for this part. Slide the OEM retainer clips a couple inches away (squeezing using the needlenose pliers) from the connection point (you can't remove them as yet). Use the needle nose pliers to twist the rubber hose to loosen it from the resevoir connection. I used the needle nosepliers to grip the bottom of the hose twist a little and lift up. Have a container /rags/ newspaper ready or catch basin under vehicle to catch the fluid that spills out of the hose. Do the same with the upper part of the rubber reservoir hose. **Note: the position of the hose before you completely remove it from the vehicle. (this will make the job much much easier to put back on later) 3.) Now you can easily access the high pressure powersteering line that is attached to the powersteering pump which is also in the way of you removing the Oil Pressure switch. With the car shut off there is no highpressure in the line. 4.) Disconnect the highpressure powersteering line using 18mm crowsfoot. **Note: You will find the job much much easier (5 seconds) using a 18mm crowsfoot, with long extension on rachet (I used Neiko crowfoot flare with 3/8 rachet drive and extension) You might be able to borrow/rent a 18mm crowsfoot one from one of the Autozone/parts type places. Break the nut free using the crowsfoot on the highpressure line. After a small turn, lift and set back on the nut. You should be able to loosen it all the way with your fingers after that. Once the highpressure line is loose, lift it up and move it out of the way. a little fluid will drain out of it. Nothing much. 5.) Now you can easyily access the Oil pressure switch. There it is...Plain sight. StraightShot 6.) Lift up on the small clip that holds the presure sensor connector to the Oil Pressure switch and gently pull connector towards you and off. Move connector and rest of wiring out of the way. I used a very small flathead screw driver to help remove the connector. 7.) Place Sensor socket over oil pressure switch, attach Ratchet with extension and turn it counter clockwise (to the left). It will loosen and you can then remove it. 8.) Check sensor after removing it and make sure the little rubber "O" ring came along with it. Otherwise you will have to go fish for it. (Most likely it will come out attached to the sensor threading) (9) You are now ready to install the new Oil Pressure Sensor switch. Easily Without the obstructions (hose and line) shown in the video. Much Much easier. Look at the old sensor and connector to see how it connects. It fairly obvious, job will be easier to re-connect (10) Hand start the new Oil pressure sensor. Make sure the new "O" ring is attached. Twist it (clockwise) to the right until finger tight. You might have to fiddle with it to get it started. (11) Place Sensor socket over switch, attach Ratchet with extension and turn it clockwise (to the right). Once snug give it maybe a 1/8 more of a turn. Don't force it. Don't over tighten. If you have torque wrench, then torque to specs given in the video. (12) Attach the connector/wire to the Oil Pressure sensor. Easier (Nothing in the way) (13) Reattach the high-pressure powersteering line. Begin hand tightening. You should be able to get pretty far and snug. Using 18mm crowsfoot and ratchet and extension, tighten line a little more than snug. Donot overtighten (14) Reattach the rubber Hose for the power steering fluid resevoir **Note: I removed the old spring style OEM clamps and replaced with stainless steel worm gear hose clamps. You can reuse the OEM Spring style clamps that were there originally with the hose. (15) Slowly refill the power steering Fluid resevoir allowing air to escape from the hose you just re-installed. This will help avoid air getting into the system. (16) Re-install engine filter air box and all connectors as shown in the video. (17) Start the vehicle. You might get a engine check light that turns on because you disconnected and reconnected sensor connectors. You should see the the check engine light immediately after starting. I have an inexpensive OBDII reader that confirmed the trouble codes TC (were the sensors I disconnected). I turned TCs off using the OBDII reader and they stayed off. Well worth the investment in the reader. I've used it several times to diagnose vehicle trouble lights/engine check light. Wipe down everything so when you check for leaks afteer aa short drive you'll be able to tell if you have ssomeething leaking that you might have to tighten a little more. Doubt it. ***Note**** If you had to do this repair again, It would only take you One hour max. That's with cleanup. Having the right tools for the job helps. Also you might want to clean the engine airfilter box and change the filter while you have it out of the vehicle. Take the vechile for a test drive. Come back check for leaks. Just in case. Yes it fixed the problem. The oil pressure sensor guage in my dashboard is working correctly.
Thanks for sharing this.... I was having a problem with the power steering fluid return line you used the crows foot on. But I found that dismounting the power steering reservoir easier than draining the line ( what do you think? ). I haven't fixed mine yet because I don't have the crows foot to disconnect the metal power steering line that's totally in the way. One guy said to "just bend it a little bit ( lol... I think not. I really don't want to do something that I could possibly cause more problems ).
Great Video, Had to replace my pressure switch my 2009 CTS. You were right I removed the two steering pump lines and it was a straight shot. Thanks again Brad
Thanks for the video, it easy to loosen the fluid reservoir and then it moves the hose when you move it. To start the sender threading in use a piece of hose to put over the end of the sensor and screw it into the hole, in fact there is spark plug tool that may be able to do that but the hose offers more sizing options we used to do that on our race car that had recessed lug bolts when we changed during enduro races, had 5 lug bolts already inserted into hose pieces to get them started instead of fumbling with the old nuts and your fingers.
Hey man I just want to say that you are awesome for that I like the way you went through it trying to skip through it hopefully when I go to do this car I have to do it all goes as well as yours did cuz I don't have a lot of time and sometimes not a lot of patience hey but thanks you helped out a lot
Just out of curiosity if you remember...my oil pressure guage on a 2010 cts 4 has always just stayed dead center at 50 no matter what. I had to get something unrelated added to my car involving wire splices, and now the guage starts exactly where yours does after your fix in video, but constantly moves around a lot between that number 60ish and 100. Did the guage move after your fix when you or the customer started driving it? Thanks.
Awesome video. What's the "ticking" sound at the end? Mine is starting to do that now . Not so much when idle but when accelerating it does that exact tick. Thanks!
It''s a bad sensor.. As the gauge will not work when running.. When they go bad when you see the pressure on the scanner screen read 100+ PSI but drops to 40+ when driving.. Also look at the oil gauge when you turn the key on. It will sweep. But read zero when running...
Claude Rains that car ended up in a nightmare , about 3 months after I commented this the timing chain decided to snap and because of how the engine works when that snapped it bent the valves . I ended up spending almost 1800 to get both replaced then the bottom end blew up , sold it for 2k blew up and used that as a down payment for a brand new car lol . Never again
I hear a ticking noise and the oil pressure is either at 0 or 100 but no engine lights on. Do i need to replace my oil pressure sensor and is it something else?
I would def not run it anymore until you find the issue. Start with getting a actual oil pressure reading with a external Guage/tester then go from there. If you're heading ticking and have 0 reading it could be a clogged pick up or bad oil pump or internal issue
@@tntoverhaulllc they said that the car was running good after they fill up it just died on them while driving they changed the fuel pump, it working good Change out the purse value it still doesn't turn on it cranks but no start The Cam chaft sensors and crank shaft were changed out to
You out here scamming customers ??? This switch does not call for 4 hours what are you smoking!??? It calls for half a hour And why is your video 14 mins long 🤦🏻♂️😂
Hi, if I remember 5 years ago, I believe I said what I said because Mitchell doesn't have estimator time for just the switch it wanted you to remove the filter housing. That's the point of the video to show the quick and easy way to do the job and we only charge time we spend on the job. Hope it helped. Thanks
Ok on 5-17-2022 I finally successfully replaced my Oil pressure switch on my 2010 CTS 3.0L. I drove all winter without a working oil pressure sensor switch gauge. There were no engine check lights or trouble codes set. It just wasn't sending info to the guage.
Hopefully this comment will save you the delay I ran into trying to "save time" as shown in the video. I am not a mechanic and worked behind a keyboard/screen most of my life. The money I save doing my own vehicle repair work more than pays for any tools that I have to buy to get the job done. Plus I get to resuse the tools I buy for other fixes. This job at the dealer will cost about $500, maybe more. You can do it within two hours (if you aren't too mechanically inclined) with the right tools and process. Faster, if you know what you are doing. Again, Having the right tools and process are a major part of doing this job corrrectly.
Tools required
1.) 10-12 inch needle nose pliers to relase hose clamps. 90 deg. and straight. Harbor Freight
2.) Catch basin, or catch can/container fluid and drips
3.) Rags/papertowels/newspaper use to cover engine parts protect from fluid
4.) 18mm crowsfoot wrench fit 3/8 extension ( I used Neiko brand) use for highpressure line
5.) 3/8 Ratchet extensions (Harbor Freight)
6.) Oil pressure switch socket (www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1&pldnSite=1 )
7.) 3/8 ratchet
8.) 3/8 Joint socket swivel ( www.amazon.com/Neiko-02486A-Impact-Universal-Socket/dp/B076FNN4C6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1) I bought similar at Harbor Freight
9.) Flat head screw driver (about 10 inches long)
10) Torque bit T25 ( needed for my vehicle to remove air filter box) Access engine air-filter
11.) Pint of powersteering Fluid designated for your vehicle refill
12.) OBII reader $22 (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1)
13.) Torque Lite Software for OBII reader (Free) Bluetooth download from appstore
14.) Flat Head Screw driver very small helps to remove connectors
15.) New Oil Pressure switch (Make sure it fits your vehicle) I bought ACDelco GM Original Equipment 12674782 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor from Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3VA9HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1
1st the video is very good (watch it, thumps up) and will help you to understand what I am saying below.The guy in the video did mention a few things that he would do different..
So below are a couple things I "had" to do differently than shown in the video. I recommend that you take pictures of the parts of your car using your phone so you can put it all back together. I used painters tape to label connectors. That way A goes back to A, and B to B, and so on.
TIP Note: Spray the highpressure brake line nut with a little bit of rust/bolt penetrate fluid the night before. Don't overdo it. A little will do it. Let it soak in overnight. The nut will breakfree much easier.
1a.) Disconnect the sensor connections as shown in video except don't disconnect the oil pressure switch connection at this time. (too hard to reach). Label them. I did. Once things are cleared away it will be much easier to disconnect the sensor cable.
1b.)Take out the engine air filter box as shown in the video. You will need the room to work.
2a.) Drain the power steering fluid reservoir using a turkey baster or tool of choice. Most likey you are overdue for a fluid change anyways.
2b.) Disconnect the larger rubber hose attached to the power steering Fluid reservoir. It's in the way. **Note: Before you disconnect it place newpaper and rags to cover your serpentine belt and parts below the reservoir. Have a small plastic container or small soup can ready to catch the few ounces that are still left in the reservoir. I used inexpensive needle-nose pliers about 10-12 inches in length that had a 90degree bend near the tip that came from Harbor Freight for this part. Slide the OEM retainer clips a couple inches away (squeezing using the needlenose pliers) from the connection point (you can't remove them as yet). Use the needle nose pliers to twist the rubber hose to loosen it from the resevoir connection. I used the needle nosepliers to grip the bottom of the hose twist a little and lift up. Have a container /rags/ newspaper ready or catch basin under vehicle to catch the fluid that spills out of the hose. Do the same with the upper part of the rubber reservoir hose. **Note: the position of the hose before you completely remove it from the vehicle. (this will make the job much much easier to put back on later)
3.) Now you can easily access the high pressure powersteering line that is attached to the powersteering pump which is also in the way of you removing the Oil Pressure switch. With the car shut off there is no highpressure in the line.
4.) Disconnect the highpressure powersteering line using 18mm crowsfoot. **Note: You will find the job much much easier (5 seconds) using a 18mm crowsfoot, with long extension on rachet (I used Neiko crowfoot flare with 3/8 rachet drive and extension) You might be able to borrow/rent a 18mm crowsfoot one from one of the Autozone/parts type places. Break the nut free using the crowsfoot on the highpressure line. After a small turn, lift and set back on the nut. You should be able to loosen it all the way with your fingers after that. Once the highpressure line is loose, lift it up and move it out of the way. a little fluid will drain out of it. Nothing much.
5.) Now you can easyily access the Oil pressure switch. There it is...Plain sight. StraightShot
6.) Lift up on the small clip that holds the presure sensor connector to the Oil Pressure switch and gently pull connector towards you and off. Move connector and rest of wiring out of the way. I used a very small flathead screw driver to help remove the connector.
7.) Place Sensor socket over oil pressure switch, attach Ratchet with extension and turn it counter clockwise (to the left). It will loosen and you can then remove it.
8.) Check sensor after removing it and make sure the little rubber "O" ring came along with it. Otherwise you will have to go fish for it. (Most likely it will come out attached to the sensor threading)
(9) You are now ready to install the new Oil Pressure Sensor switch. Easily Without the obstructions (hose and line) shown in the video. Much Much easier. Look at the old sensor and connector to see how it connects. It fairly obvious, job will be easier to re-connect
(10) Hand start the new Oil pressure sensor. Make sure the new "O" ring is attached. Twist it (clockwise) to the right until finger tight. You might have to fiddle with it to get it started.
(11) Place Sensor socket over switch, attach Ratchet with extension and turn it clockwise (to the right). Once snug give it maybe a 1/8 more of a turn. Don't force it. Don't over tighten. If you have torque wrench, then torque to specs given in the video.
(12) Attach the connector/wire to the Oil Pressure sensor. Easier (Nothing in the way)
(13) Reattach the high-pressure powersteering line. Begin hand tightening. You should be able to get pretty far and snug. Using 18mm crowsfoot and ratchet and extension, tighten line a little more than snug. Donot overtighten
(14) Reattach the rubber Hose for the power steering fluid resevoir **Note: I removed the old spring style OEM clamps and replaced with stainless steel worm gear hose clamps. You can reuse the OEM Spring style clamps that were there originally with the hose.
(15) Slowly refill the power steering Fluid resevoir allowing air to escape from the hose you just re-installed. This will help avoid air getting into the system.
(16) Re-install engine filter air box and all connectors as shown in the video.
(17) Start the vehicle. You might get a engine check light that turns on because you disconnected and reconnected sensor connectors. You should see the the check engine light immediately after starting. I have an inexpensive OBDII reader that confirmed the trouble codes TC (were the sensors I disconnected). I turned TCs off using the OBDII reader and they stayed off. Well worth the investment in the reader. I've used it several times to diagnose vehicle trouble lights/engine check light.
Wipe down everything so when you check for leaks afteer aa short drive you'll be able to tell if you have ssomeething leaking that you might have to tighten a little more. Doubt it.
***Note**** If you had to do this repair again, It would only take you One hour max. That's with cleanup. Having the right tools for the job helps. Also you might want to clean the engine airfilter box and change the filter while you have it out of the vehicle.
Take the vechile for a test drive. Come back check for leaks. Just in case.
Yes it fixed the problem. The oil pressure sensor guage in my dashboard is working correctly.
This is awesome thank you.
Thanks for sharing this.... I was having a problem with the power steering fluid return line you used the crows foot on. But I found that dismounting the power steering reservoir easier than draining the line ( what do you think? ). I haven't fixed mine yet because I don't have the crows foot to disconnect the metal power steering line that's totally in the way. One guy said to "just bend it a little bit ( lol... I think not. I really don't want to do something that I could possibly cause more problems ).
Great Video, Had to replace my pressure switch my 2009 CTS. You were right I removed the two steering pump lines and it was a straight shot.
Thanks again Brad
Thank you. Got it done. Hardest part was finding the tools I used after being dropped
Saved my CTS’s life again! Thank you! It works now!
Thanks a lot! Saved me tons of hassle. Great video!
This worked perfect. I had to remove the power steering line also. Good tip Thanks
Thanks for the video, I have to change my sensor unit and this will really help.
Thank you for this wealth of info, be blessed. This is so helpful.
Thanks! Very informative and helpful!
Great video!
Thanks for the video, it easy to loosen the fluid reservoir and then it moves the hose when you move it. To start the sender threading in use a piece of hose to put over the end of the sensor and screw it into the hole, in fact there is spark plug tool that may be able to do that but the hose offers more sizing options we used to do that on our race car that had recessed lug bolts when we changed during enduro races, had 5 lug bolts already inserted into hose pieces to get them started instead of fumbling with the old nuts and your fingers.
Thank you for the video
Thank you. This helped me fixed my car 👍
Great video!! down and dirty, and just what I needed to know. Saved me a few bucks!! Thank you very much sir.
Just bought the replacement, just waiting for the weather to clear to attempt this. Have a 2012 cts and it's doing the same
Hi! How did it go replacing on your 2012? I have the same year and will be replacing mine soon.
good job really help me to replace oil pressure switch...i used a 18mm flare crowfoot to remove the hard line less then a min to remove line..
CTS 2010 oil pressure switch is my next project. Good video
Could you let me know if it worked or is it something different electrical related and did you have the same symptoms as video? Thanks.
Hey man I just want to say that you are awesome for that I like the way you went through it trying to skip through it hopefully when I go to do this car I have to do it all goes as well as yours did cuz I don't have a lot of time and sometimes not a lot of patience hey but thanks you helped out a lot
Great video! Thanks!
Good video great info....nice job very helpful....appreciate it 👍💪
Great video I am going to attempt to replace mine oil pressure sensor now since this video was so helpful and informative!.. thanks
Great video
thank you so much Mr.King
Thank You!
Thanks bro I’m going to change my sell on the weekend 👍🤑money saver video
Hey there, could you let me know if it worked for you and did you have the same symptoms? Thanks man.
Thank you :-)
Thanks ...just did mine...
How did you get that nut to lossen on the power steering line? It's so tight against the pulley I cant get anything on it
Love the video, what socket did you use to hold the oil pressure bolt 🔩
Being honest,... I added a different oil to top up half a week before my oil pressure senser went haywire. 😢 will try this too, thanks!!
1 inch 1/16 is 27 mm
Hey bud does this make the stabilitrak go off and my oil gauge is all over the place I Believe this to be the oil pressure sensor
Just out of curiosity if you remember...my oil pressure guage on a 2010 cts 4 has always just stayed dead center at 50 no matter what. I had to get something unrelated added to my car involving wire splices, and now the guage starts exactly where yours does after your fix in video, but constantly moves around a lot between that number 60ish and 100. Did the guage move after your fix when you or the customer started driving it? Thanks.
Awesome video. What's the "ticking" sound at the end? Mine is starting to do that now . Not so much when idle but when accelerating it does that exact tick. Thanks!
Amazing video. Normally which other problema does that cts have
Mine’s good so far the best car I have owned
dude you are hilarious
My indicated low oil pressure and Said turn off car. I put a new switch but now it’s not indicating any oil
Will this work for my 08 CTS. My pressure reads low at idle then nice and normal when driving
Possible, I'd check actual physical mechanical oil pressure first also make sure your using the correct oil. Lmk
It''s a bad sensor.. As the gauge will not work when running.. When they go bad when you see the pressure on the scanner screen read 100+ PSI but drops to 40+ when driving..
Also look at the oil gauge when you turn the key on. It will sweep. But read zero when running...
Claude Rains that car ended up in a nightmare , about 3 months after I commented this the timing chain decided to snap and because of how the engine works when that snapped it bent the valves . I ended up spending almost 1800 to get both replaced then the bottom end blew up , sold it for 2k blew up and used that as a down payment for a brand new car lol . Never again
@@ilyowen5817 Oh yeah.... These things are almost as bad as a Ford 4.0....
I hear a ticking noise and the oil pressure is either at 0 or 100 but no engine lights on. Do i need to replace my oil pressure sensor and is it something else?
I would def not run it anymore until you find the issue. Start with getting a actual oil pressure reading with a external Guage/tester then go from there. If you're heading ticking and have 0 reading it could be a clogged pick up or bad oil pump or internal issue
@@tntoverhaulllc thanks for your reply
The nut to the power steering line is tough to get off. Any help would be much appreciated.
I'm late, but I recently did mine and had to use a crow foot to do it.
How do you get the power steering line nut loose because I cant seem to get a wrench in there to loosen it
I'm having the same issue. Uhhg
I ended up bending the hard line down slightly.
@@bryangonzales3557 I bought a crows foot & didn't have to bend anything & it worked flawlessly
how about the sts is it the same??
im so sorry i missed this message i hope you got it figured out.
Can the pressure sensor keep the car from starting when it goes bad?
If it reads 0 then yes failsafe will keep pcm from allowing it to start
@@tntoverhaulllc they said that the car was running good after they fill up it just died on them while driving they changed the fuel pump, it working good Change out the purse value it still doesn't turn on it cranks but no start The Cam chaft sensors and crank shaft were changed out to
What's the tic tic tic thing you said be easy? Mine ain't as loud but does that.
Evap solenoid
Who gave this video a thumb down? I wonder who raised you smucks. Great video saved others time and money what more do you want?
I have a 2012 cadillac cts4 and it shows 0 oil psi and doesn't move need some help on this
Hearing any noise ticking?
No didn't hear any noise
And there is no lights on
@@tntoverhaulllc what happens if u hear a ticking noise?
Good video but you never really said anything regard oil specific issue...our language is lost. Thanks for the knowledge you did share.
I'm sorry I didn't speak on a specific issue you might have, is there anything I can help with?
How was it running prior?
Ran fine but oil light was on.
What's that part called with the ticking at the end?
Evap solenoid
Got a 08 and it has a different part#
Hey, the hoods open!
Edward Goose haha darn right
You out here scamming customers ??? This switch does not call for 4 hours what are you smoking!??? It calls for half a hour
And why is your video 14 mins long 🤦🏻♂️😂
This video was useful for a lot of people, myself included. If it wasn't helpful for you then you're not the target audience, move on
Hi, if I remember 5 years ago, I believe I said what I said because Mitchell doesn't have estimator time for just the switch it wanted you to remove the filter housing. That's the point of the video to show the quick and easy way to do the job and we only charge time we spend on the job. Hope it helped. Thanks