I use extreme life gun protection by nano guard. Really great stuff. It comes in an aerosol can and I just spray it over all surfaces of the firearm including down the bore and through the action and wipe it off after a couple of minutes. Works great on timber and polymers. My rifles look brand new whenever I pull them out of the safe.
@@Atrogladius Use bolt insert to protect inlet, 3 plastic rods for 2x brush / cleaning hub, so I do not have to unscrew and tighten accessories and g96 synt.oil (my preference to remove on whole rifle - rust removal and protection ....)
I just use Hoppes# 9 ; few dromps on an OTIS RIP CORD, Then use a separate Rip cord with a few drops of Rem oil. This Gun Cleaning, is completely out of hand, with excessive scrubbing, and a zillion cleaners on Market. As one competition shooter said...., I clean my barrel once every 200 shots. I wouldn't wait that long..., I just keep it basic... Believe me Hunters, They had this figured out a long time ago. We live in the age of Extreems , nowdays.
Well, be very careful with that lubricant. I bought a new A7 several years ago with hopes to use it deer hunting. Well, my hunting opportunities didn't work out well. So, I have an A7 that I mounted a scope on, then shot it enough to make sure I had the scope properly adjusted, and placed it in my storage cabinet with several other firearms. This past year, I noticed the soft grip areas had become sticky. I contacted Beretta USA and they said it was because of oil particles in the air. It is horrifying to think that I can't store a Sako A7 with other firearms that have gun oil on them. Do I really need a separate storage area for make sure a Sako doesn't deteriorate? I found nothing in the owner's manual stating that. This problem with materials is a design flaw. To use a material on a "gun" that becomes sticky because of "gun oil", that usually gets used on "guns" is a mistake. (I'm a design engineer that has selected materials for many applications - and I must always anticipate how the material will be used and the environments they are likely to encounter.) I wish Sako would do the right thing and replace, without customer cost, these defective stocks. Not standing behind the product design is the best way I know of to lose customers.
SAKO, SHOULD HAVE NEVER!!!, Sold their company to Beretta. Beretta , is puffed up with pride, and has a Track Record of " TERRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE" . Oil particles attacking Polymer Composition.... , Thats their Excuse??? Wow! I wouldnt put it past Beretta for screwing up the tried and True SAKO Design, as well. Now there has to be a Sako 90, to finally get it Right, with ejection issues. These are Expensive Semi Custom Rifles; No Excuse.
This IS NOT how to clean a rifle!!!! I'm very surprised that Sako would put this out. 1st the end of the barrel should always be pointing down so that oil does not go into the action, 2nd, Never use a jointed brass bronzecleaning rod as it will only carry grit into the barrel. Use only one piece steel or pull through
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I use extreme life gun protection by nano guard. Really great stuff. It comes in an aerosol can and I just spray it over all surfaces of the firearm including down the bore and through the action and wipe it off after a couple of minutes. Works great on timber and polymers. My rifles look brand new whenever I pull them out of the safe.
Oh man, using that cleaning rod out off multiple peaces on a Sako also without a bore guide makes me cringe 😖😖😖
Everything looks so clean, except the dudes hand! lol
You are not protecting your rifle - bolt insert ? , crown protection ?, plastic rod ? My T3X and S20 would not appreciate it :)
How would you do instead?
@@Atrogladius Use bolt insert to protect inlet, 3 plastic rods for 2x brush / cleaning hub, so I do not have to unscrew and tighten accessories and g96 synt.oil (my preference to remove on whole rifle - rust removal and protection ....)
I just use Hoppes# 9 ; few dromps on an OTIS RIP CORD, Then use a separate Rip cord with a few drops of Rem oil. This Gun Cleaning, is completely out of hand, with excessive scrubbing, and a zillion cleaners on Market. As one competition shooter said...., I clean my barrel once every 200 shots. I wouldn't wait that long..., I just keep it basic... Believe me Hunters, They had this figured out a long time ago. We live in the age of Extreems , nowdays.
Well, be very careful with that lubricant.
I bought a new A7 several years ago with hopes to use it deer hunting.
Well, my hunting opportunities didn't work out well. So, I have an A7
that I mounted a scope on, then shot it enough to make sure I had the
scope properly adjusted, and placed it in my storage cabinet with
several other firearms. This past year, I noticed the soft grip areas had
become sticky. I contacted Beretta USA and they said it was because of
oil particles in the air. It is horrifying to think that I can't store a
Sako A7 with other firearms that have gun oil on them. Do I really need
a separate storage area for make sure a Sako doesn't deteriorate? I
found nothing in the owner's manual stating that. This problem with
materials is a design flaw. To use a material on a "gun" that becomes
sticky because of "gun oil", that usually gets used on "guns" is a
mistake. (I'm a design engineer that has selected materials for many
applications - and I must always anticipate how the material will be
used and the environments they are likely to encounter.) I wish Sako would do the
right thing and replace, without customer cost, these defective stocks.
Not standing behind the product design is the best way I know of to lose
customers.
SAKO, SHOULD HAVE NEVER!!!, Sold their company to Beretta. Beretta , is puffed up with pride, and has a Track Record of " TERRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE" .
Oil particles attacking Polymer Composition.... , Thats their Excuse??? Wow! I wouldnt put it past Beretta for screwing up the tried and True SAKO Design, as well. Now there has to be a Sako 90, to finally get it Right, with ejection issues. These are Expensive Semi Custom Rifles; No Excuse.
Also a great word of advice, use gloves!
This IS NOT how to clean a rifle!!!! I'm very surprised that Sako would put this out. 1st the end of the barrel should always be pointing down so that oil does not go into the action, 2nd, Never use a jointed brass bronzecleaning rod as it will only carry grit into the barrel. Use only one piece steel or pull through
Not to mention he is not using a bore guide.
Ive done my gun cleaning all wrong, ugh
Кровь из глаз идет, как не надо чистить
Your noise is like fingernails on a chalkboard !