I did the latemodel crate 5.0 swap into my 67 Mustang back in 1995. There wasn't a lot available for this swap back then and it took some resourceful thinking through a ton of conflicting information to get this engine to work. The pulley dilemma was one of them. I used the OE dampener and since I was using the OE type radiator design with the passenger side waterpump inlet, the driver side timing tab was needed. Because the timing marks were on the opposite side of the dampener, I had to attach a timing tape for it to work. I just made sure that I was able to correctly transfer the TDC mark on the dampener, so that I could properly reference the timing tape. I had bought an aluminum underdrive pulley set from Ford Racing, thinking that this was OK to use; it wasn't. I had to use a twin groove lower pulley because I had power steering. I found that the 4-bolt lower pulley worked, but the single groove waterpump pulley was too large. It would not work because of interference, so I sourced the OE twin groove waterpump pulley that came with the original 289. This finally worked out for me, but what an expensive hassle, those aluminum pulleys were not cheap. The inner groove lined up for the W/P, balancer and the alternator, but only the outer groove on the balencer pulley would work for the power steering pump which was OK; I didn't need to have the belt also running off of the W/P, anyway just for the power steering pump. I also had a hell of a time finding a 50 oz imbalance flexplate for the C4 case-fill automatic, use in the 67 Mustang, until in my desperation, a call to Ford Racing told me where to go. Luckily, today they're easier to find from Summit or Jeg's, but don't look to source one from a junkyard because Ford never made a 50oz imbalance flexplate for the case-fill C4. This transmission wasn't being used when the roller-cam 5.0 engine was introduced. It takes a 157 tooth ring-gear small diameter flexplate and not the flexplate that can be sourced from the Ford AOD trans. I appreciate the video, I'm sure that quite a few folks could use the info and don't have to scrounge like I did.
Thank you for these kinds of videos. I am new to hot rodding, I enjoy the new stuff but I have trouble spotting the differences and the ford stuff I am getting seems to always give me a puzzle as far as changes to different things that someone like me does not spot in the junkyard.
I bought a Summit brand dampener with same concept on pulley hole options. The other important piece of the puzzle is what water pump you put on. Ford has a short and a tall (I got a tall) as well as passenger side inlet and driver side inlet. Messed my alternator bracket plan all up! For my application looks like I also will need a .950" spacer to get the crank pulley to line up using the Summit dampener. What a PAIN IN THE BUTT!!
Thanks for the info on this it will sure help someone down the line on this pulley problem I've run into some of the same problems with Ford's in the past I wish I would of knowed about it back then could probably have more hair in my head from it worrying me or more black hair instead of white hair in my head
I've got a 347ci internally balanced made from an 88 roller block. With a 1965 style timing cover, rad, edelbrock water pump and other turbo stuff on the front I couldn't find a decent pointer I could read the balancer numbers. So I made a pointer and used a degree wheel to find tdc on cylinder #2. Timing is now easy and no problems. Some times a guy just has to work outside the box.
I have the correct 28oz damper but they have different water pumps with different length shafts and I almost have the belt straight but I suspect I will have to keep working on it to figure out exactly what (shims/washers) and where. I just don't want to take off the water pump and get an older version. I have a 1965 sbf 289 with a new water pump that is throwing the belt alignment off by about 1/4 of an inch.
This is a problem that I ran into swapping engines in an early Mustang. The engine I took out has a different bolt pattern than the one I was trying to swap in. I ended up swapping the transmission too. The newer engine had the typical 6 bolt bell ( 302 351 W, 351 C) , the engine I was taking out was a 289 with 5 bolts. The early C-4 transmissions had a removable bell, but so many things change from year to year, it can get you into trouble very fast. I try to avoid working on Fords.
Love it. My Pops and I just built a 5.0EFI for his '69 F100. The block is out of a 2000 Explorer, the crank, heads, and cam are from an '87-'93 mustang, the pulley setup is off of a '90 Crown Vic with standard rotation pump. I'll have to post a video of it running on our engine stand. I'll try to get a vid of it this weekend.
The accessories can be the most difficult and time consuming aspect of a motor swap. It can be very difficult to mix and match parts from entirely different era's to make something new work in something old. Been there, done that. Too many times.
Oh boy I just had to deal with this on my 351w in a 68 stang lol I bought billet pulleys and the 3 bolt crank pulley wouldn't bolt up so bought a 3 to 4 adapter that worked but still not lined up for the belt so I had 1/4 shaved off the adaptor and finally last night got the alternator billet water pump and crank all lined up and running
I have a built 5.0 roller from a 90 in my 68 mustang and another thing that didnt work is the power steering bracket. The original ps bracket uses a smaller size bolt to attach to the head on a 289 which didnt work on the 5.0 so i had to get creative and use a bracket from a 70 mustang 302 and drill it out to use the correct size bolt and also needed to add a spacer to line up the pulleys.
I have a Ford Fairlane 63 with a 302 engine from mid 70s. i have the issue that it gets hot when i drive it on bigger roads at greater speed. right now we have made a spacer for the waterpump so the waterpump gets driven by a bigger pulley by the camshaft, making it go a little faster. i hope it will do the trick
I had the same problems with a 88 5L in a 65 fairlane. I have a zero balance internal eagle 347 assembly. Have the same name balancer with CVR custom V belt pulleys. Works great. No issues.
Or, like my set up, neutral balance so no weight on the inside of the professional products harmonic balancer. Several local shops auto sell this specific balancer and so did Scat as it came in my billet crank stroker kit.
I really like the PP balancer but many of there other products are very suspect. I partially attribute it and the hard block to keeping my sbe 8.2 deck together after countless runs spinning it to 7200 on a 150 shot. People who say these engines can't pull the revs are full of it. A good cam and head is all it takes. Hell I ran the stock HO cam up to 6800 with ported gt40 iron heads but without nitrous it stopped pulling about 6200.
Cool info. I got a 79 F150 Styleside pickup with a four bolt pulley attached to the crank. I’m looking to acquire a new steel pulley for my truck. The v belt pulley it has now looked bad. Doesn’t look square. Please advise. Part # ?
What water pump did you use? I have the same set up on a bill for my friend. I can’t get the water pump holes for the pulley to match up. I’ve also bought a nice set of billet Ford Motorcraft pulleys. Also I can’t figure out the alternator bracket set up 7/16. Bolt doesn’t work because the hole in the head is much bigger. Did you finish this build? Can send a pic
what about the water pump ? Reverse flow VS standard ? I heard you dont have to change the timing chain cover just have to have the right backing plate for the Water pump
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view!" Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam." Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!" Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..." Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!" Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky." Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction." Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment ?
My 1993 302 was shaking really bad and sounded like it had bad rod knock bit it looks like something is hanging off the crank pulley or harmonic balancer
Question? 90 5.0 to 89 to 95 or so 5.8. Will the harmonic and brackets and pulleys work? My harmonic is identical to that in your video for serpentine on my 5.0 and the 351 has the 3 bolt harmonic, however both harmonic balancers look the same weight. Thanks
I'm dealing with this BS right now and it's making me regret spending money on a 5.0 There's are no 5.0s at my local yard to pull from. Stupid me thought the ford performance timing cover would be ok on my 91 roller block but the water pump sticks out so far I'd need a good 4" spacer to make just the crank line up with the water pump. It's dumb.
If you would have read this link at the top of this discussion the issue would have been solved. www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/
@@jeffb4388 That link is displayed nowhere and is not referenced at all. Good job. The fix was easy, buy an expensive proprietary water pump and pully.
@@jeffcivjeep7 I'm betting you are trying to get the link using a phone for some reason that may be the issue if you use a PC it should come up no problem.
when i buy all my ford motors they have that with the motor other wise i dont buy that motor but i have swaped the balancers on my dragcar engines with matching pullys so i dont see or have had a problem rpm 8300
Should a freshly built stock 302 burn oil after the break in period? If so what would you consider normal? Thank you for the videos and all the detailed information.
I covered the details of this years ago,give it a read www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ Post # 5 The advantage of using the early style pulleys if swapping into a 50's Ford is it shortens the overall length of the 302 about 3-4" and gains you more fan to radiator clearance.
OR just get the harmonic balancer with the full serpentine factory Ford pulley set up from a 87 to 93 ford mustang with the serpentine reverse rotation water pump and reverse rotation fan and be done with it , and get a nice upgrade in the process . using all factory Ford parts
This becomes a problem if your trying to keep the car original this is the case with most of the early mustangs the value of the car is compromised by changing to the late set up
If I was looking at cars, which are meant to be driven, not collected and looked at, I would be looking at what is better, not what is "correct" for the time period.
Yeah and add 40 pounds to the front of the engine and literally hide the entire motor. Great idea. Nothing wrong with V belts. Nice and simple. Far less parts and more reliable.
Does anyone know if counterclockwise rotating water pump will work properly on a 302 ci engine that had originally come with a clockwise rotating pump? Does it matter what engine coolant port is pressurized
it is problem like this i run in to that i like chevys i put a serpentine belt set up on my 454 for free just pulled it off a 94 bad 454 that i got in a truck for free and it fit right in a 68 pu but my 390 i have to buy after market 600 bucks and they made so many diff. types on a 390 and i just happen to have the rare set up witch is a 63 t bird 390 one year only motor even takes a diff. bell housing have to custom fit the after market set up even on everything and the 390 that i have only came in a 63 t bird but 400 hp stock with tri power for 75 bucks rebuilt with 3,856 miles on it now i know y i got it cheap u can't get parts for it only the guts u can get but it does look cool in my high boy any one need 429 motor stands for a 67 to 72 high boy have a set sitting
If you are using the earlier water pumps and going to a front sump oil pump you need the earlier timing cover www.speedwaymotors.com/EngineQuest-TC351A-EQ-302-351W-Ford-Timing-Cover,1897.html
I have a question if I can pick your brain for a while? I have a later 6 bolt trans 289 that I am putting in a 1970 Torino, just to drive while I build my 302. Anyway, what I am planning to do is use a four bolt balancer from a 72 302, so it is still a 28oz I believe? I have everything from the 1970 pulley setup that was on the 1980 model 302 block that was in the car, and I believe the balancer is a 50oz. It's a D2TE-D3a. Anyway, as long as I use the four bolt 28 ounce balancer that came on a 72 302, but everything else from the 1970 pulley setup bolted onto the 289, everything should line up, correct? The flywheel is another issue, but I have to find out what is actually in the current setup, tooth count wise. The only thing I am really changing is the balancer on the 289, to make it a 28oz four bolt. I may use the timing cover from the 1980 block, but since the engine was swapped before I bought the car, I don't know if the timing cover is from the 1970 block, or the 1980 block that was in the car. I will have to look for a part number once I get further into the disassembly. Confused yet? Me too, lol.
I’m doing the same as you and using a electric water pump and I’ve had small block fords for 25 years now but sence I got this 99 GT40P motor it’s been a pain in the ass to deal with . I like the old v-belt set up where a F-100 had the same pullies and brackets as a Grenada or LTD did
This will solve the problem it has all 3 SBF timing mark locations www.speedwaymotors.com/Professional-Products-Small-Block-Ford-Harmonic-Balancers,1802.html You can order it in 28 oz or 50 oz balance factors they also fit both 3 bolt and 4 bolt crank shaft pulleys. The paint sucks so I advise giving it several coats of epoxy clear coat or clear engine enamel.
David Torres thanks. I’m guessing the block will be reverse rotation water pump. So I’ll have to figure out if it’s possible to retain V belt accessories pulley set up with a reverse rotation water pump.
@@WesternReloader Early 1980's 302's with serpentine belts had water pumps that were not reverse rotation, you can convert to V-belt and use the same water pump www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948573&cc=1188345&jsn=634 My '54 Ford has a 1984 MK VII 5.0/302 I hated the serpentine and converted back to V-belts.
Ford had great castings back then. Definitely 1966. It's a crime when people ruin the old blocks by blowing them up or overboring them too much to try and get an extra few cubic inches which makes absolutely no difference at all.
I did the latemodel crate 5.0 swap into my 67 Mustang back in 1995. There wasn't a lot available for this swap back then and it took some resourceful thinking through a ton of conflicting information to get this engine to work. The pulley dilemma was one of them.
I used the OE dampener and since I was using the OE type radiator design with the passenger side waterpump inlet, the driver side timing tab was needed. Because the timing marks were on the opposite side of the dampener, I had to attach a timing tape for it to work. I just made sure that I was able to correctly transfer the TDC mark on the dampener, so that I could properly reference the timing tape.
I had bought an aluminum underdrive pulley set from Ford Racing, thinking that this was OK to use; it wasn't. I had to use a twin groove lower pulley because I had power steering. I found that the 4-bolt lower pulley worked, but the single groove waterpump pulley was too large. It would not work because of interference, so I sourced the OE twin groove waterpump pulley that came with the original 289. This finally worked out for me, but what an expensive hassle, those aluminum pulleys were not cheap. The inner groove lined up for the W/P, balancer and the alternator, but only the outer groove on the balencer pulley would work for the power steering pump which was OK; I didn't need to have the belt also running off of the W/P, anyway just for the power steering pump.
I also had a hell of a time finding a 50 oz imbalance flexplate for the C4 case-fill automatic, use in the 67 Mustang, until in my desperation, a call to Ford Racing told me where to go. Luckily, today they're easier to find from Summit or Jeg's, but don't look to source one from a junkyard because Ford never made a 50oz imbalance flexplate for the case-fill C4. This transmission wasn't being used when the roller-cam 5.0 engine was introduced. It takes a 157 tooth ring-gear small diameter flexplate and not the flexplate that can be sourced from the Ford AOD trans.
I appreciate the video, I'm sure that quite a few folks could use the info and don't have to scrounge like I did.
Thank you so much for the tech tip! Saved my butt today when I found out that none of the belts would line up with the pulleys
Videos already 7 years old but super helpful thank you
These are times when we tip our hat to the manufacturers that make these products and our projects that much easier to complete
Thank you for the info, some of us like the original look of a 60's engine compartment with V belts :)
That’s what I did. 85 block and changed it all to V belts
Thank you for these kinds of videos. I am new to hot rodding, I enjoy the new stuff but I have trouble spotting the differences and the ford stuff I am getting seems to always give me a puzzle as far as changes to different things that someone like me does not spot in the junkyard.
I bought a Summit brand dampener with same concept on pulley hole options. The other important piece of the puzzle is what water pump you put on. Ford has a short and a tall (I got a tall) as well as passenger side inlet and driver side inlet. Messed my alternator bracket plan all up! For my application looks like I also will need a .950" spacer to get the crank pulley to line up using the Summit dampener. What a PAIN IN THE BUTT!!
Thanks for the info on this it will sure help someone down the line on this pulley problem I've run into some of the same problems with Ford's in the past I wish I would of knowed about it back then could probably have more hair in my head from it worrying me or more black hair instead of white hair in my head
Another great idea by Ford. Bury the timing tab so you can never time the motor. Genius.
Not if you use the corresponding parts.
I've got a 347ci internally balanced made from an 88 roller block. With a 1965 style timing cover, rad, edelbrock water pump and other turbo stuff on the front I couldn't find a decent pointer I could read the balancer numbers. So I made a pointer and used a degree wheel to find tdc on cylinder #2. Timing is now easy and no problems. Some times a guy just has to work outside the box.
I have the correct 28oz damper but they have different water pumps with different length shafts and I almost have the belt straight but I suspect I will have to keep working on it to figure out exactly what (shims/washers) and where. I just don't want to take off the water pump and get an older version. I have a 1965 sbf 289 with a new water pump that is throwing the belt alignment off by about 1/4 of an inch.
I don’t know how this little piece of knowledge was so difficult to come up with, there are many companies offering the same Chinese part!!
This is a problem that I ran into swapping engines in an early Mustang. The engine I took out has a different bolt pattern than the one I was trying to swap in. I ended up swapping the transmission too. The newer engine had the typical 6 bolt bell ( 302 351 W, 351 C) , the engine I was taking out was a 289 with 5 bolts. The early C-4 transmissions had a removable bell, but so many things change from year to year, it can get you into trouble very fast. I try to avoid working on Fords.
Your videos are really helpful , I am working on my 5.0L roller block right now just getting started and refer to your videos a lot
Used the harmonic balancer you suggested om a 68 mustang to 70 something 302. Worked perfect.
I remember a few of those issues back in the day...Mid 70's in Australia.
Love it. My Pops and I just built a 5.0EFI for his '69 F100. The block is out of a 2000 Explorer, the crank, heads, and cam are from an '87-'93 mustang, the pulley setup is off of a '90 Crown Vic with standard rotation pump.
I'll have to post a video of it running on our engine stand. I'll try to get a vid of it this weekend.
Can't believe I failed to post a link too the engine I was referring to... Two years ago.
th-cam.com/video/PIWNLtcl0h4/w-d-xo.html
I just went through this dropping a ‘92 roller 302 into my ‘72! I wish I had seen this.
Good tip I'm about to build a roller block for a 63 Falcon and I knew the pulleys are a problem.
great advice it looks like that is what i need 1992 302 in a 66 mustang 289 thank you very much
Thanks for the info. I have a 351 going into an Early Bronco.
The accessories can be the most difficult and time consuming aspect of a motor swap. It can be very difficult to mix and match parts from entirely different era's to make something new work in something old. Been there, done that. Too many times.
Oh boy I just had to deal with this on my 351w in a 68 stang lol I bought billet pulleys and the 3 bolt crank pulley wouldn't bolt up so bought a 3 to 4 adapter that worked but still not lined up for the belt so I had 1/4 shaved off the adaptor and finally last night got the alternator billet water pump and crank all lined up and running
I have a built 5.0 roller from a 90 in my 68 mustang and another thing that didnt work is the power steering bracket. The original ps bracket uses a smaller size bolt to attach to the head on a 289 which didnt work on the 5.0 so i had to get creative and use a bracket from a 70 mustang 302 and drill it out to use the correct size bolt and also needed to add a spacer to line up the pulleys.
I have a Ford Fairlane 63 with a 302 engine from mid 70s. i have the issue that it gets hot when i drive it on bigger roads at greater speed. right now we have made a spacer for the waterpump so the waterpump gets driven by a bigger pulley by the camshaft, making it go a little faster. i hope it will do the trick
I believe the product is from Australia. I have used it too, and it is a great part
You can build my ford 400 if you want too!
Yea,they had a lot of different brackets and pulleys and even some of the early timing covers were narrower
I had the same problems with a 88 5L in a 65 fairlane. I have a zero balance internal eagle 347 assembly. Have the same name balancer with CVR custom V belt pulleys. Works great. No issues.
Are you using the late model Flywheel with that set-up? Thanks
@@edgelord4678 I have a neutral balance flexplate with a c4
Well done, roller engine in my 66 Sunbeam Tiger.
Or, like my set up, neutral balance so no weight on the inside of the professional products harmonic balancer. Several local shops auto sell this specific balancer and so did Scat as it came in my billet crank stroker kit.
I really like the PP balancer but many of there other products are very suspect. I partially attribute it and the hard block to keeping my sbe 8.2 deck together after countless runs spinning it to 7200 on a 150 shot. People who say these engines can't pull the revs are full of it. A good cam and head is all it takes. Hell I ran the stock HO cam up to 6800 with ported gt40 iron heads but without nitrous it stopped pulling about 6200.
Cool info. I got a 79 F150 Styleside pickup with a four bolt pulley attached to the crank. I’m looking to acquire a new steel pulley for my truck. The v belt pulley it has now looked bad. Doesn’t look square. Please advise. Part # ?
What water pump did you use? I have the same set up on a bill for my friend. I can’t get the water pump holes for the pulley to match up. I’ve also bought a nice set of billet Ford Motorcraft pulleys. Also I can’t figure out the alternator bracket set up 7/16. Bolt doesn’t work because the hole in the head is much bigger. Did you finish this build? Can send a pic
I got a 72 Torino sport with a 545ci BBF going in soon 👌
Im having a serpentine/ Delphi power steering and huge factory alternator baskets
The other set of timing marks were likely for use in van applications...you had to view the timing under the driver's side..😕
what about the water pump ? Reverse flow VS standard ? I heard you dont have to change the timing chain cover just have to have the right backing plate for the Water pump
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view!"
Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam."
Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!"
Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..."
Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!"
Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky."
Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction."
Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment ?
Thank you.. I did not know this..
Hey bud. Ever had a balancer hit the timing cover? Trying to run my pulleys from my 78 f100 (4 bolt and hits) on a omc175.
My 1993 302 was shaking really bad and sounded like it had bad rod knock bit it looks like something is hanging off the crank pulley or harmonic balancer
CAN U SHOW HOW TO PUT THE PULLYS ON THE ENGINE
Question? 90 5.0 to 89 to 95 or so 5.8. Will the harmonic and brackets and pulleys work? My harmonic is identical to that in your video for serpentine on my 5.0 and the 351 has the 3 bolt harmonic, however both harmonic balancers look the same weight. Thanks
I'm dealing with this BS right now and it's making me regret spending money on a 5.0 There's are no 5.0s at my local yard to pull from. Stupid me thought the ford performance timing cover would be ok on my 91 roller block but the water pump sticks out so far I'd need a good 4" spacer to make just the crank line up with the water pump. It's dumb.
If you would have read this link at the top of this discussion the issue would have been solved. www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/
@@jeffb4388 That link is displayed nowhere and is not referenced at all. Good job. The fix was easy, buy an expensive proprietary water pump and pully.
@@jeffcivjeep7 I'm betting you are trying to get the link using a phone for some reason that may be the issue if you use a PC it should come up no problem.
I am having belt issues on a 302 I put in a falcon
when i buy all my ford motors they have that with the motor other wise i dont buy that motor but i have swaped the balancers on my dragcar engines with matching pullys so i dont see or have had a problem rpm 8300
Should a freshly built stock 302 burn oil after the break in period? If so what would you consider normal?
Thank you for the videos and all the detailed information.
no it should not burn oil
Thank you for the quick reply, its consuming 1/8 of a quart every 500 miles.
Also, the plugs look normal, grayish tan with no oil at all on them.
I covered the details of this years ago,give it a read www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ Post # 5 The advantage of using the early style pulleys if swapping into a 50's Ford is it shortens the overall length of the 302 about 3-4" and gains you more fan to radiator clearance.
Fantastic Jeff, great help.
OR just get the harmonic balancer with the full serpentine factory Ford pulley set up from a 87 to 93 ford mustang with the serpentine reverse rotation water pump and reverse rotation fan and be done with it , and get a nice upgrade in the process . using all factory Ford parts
I rather go with the all Ford solution from the 87-93 Mustang too, it would work great and takes up the least amount of room under the hood.
This becomes a problem if your trying to keep the car original this is the case with most of the early mustangs the value of the car is compromised by changing to the late set up
If I was looking at cars, which are meant to be driven, not collected and looked at, I would be looking at what is better, not what is "correct" for the time period.
Yeah and add 40 pounds to the front of the engine and literally hide the entire motor. Great idea. Nothing wrong with V belts. Nice and simple. Far less parts and more reliable.
Hi i have idea to get a ford falcon 62 4 doors with 6 line , do you think i can get a 302 ? Thank you i am new in this thanks
What is the depth of a 351 cleveland water pump pulley , did that change much , thanks
ha ha ha smooth move with dropping the dampener guy :)
Does anyone know if counterclockwise rotating water pump will work properly on a 302 ci engine that had originally come with a clockwise rotating pump? Does it matter what engine coolant port is pressurized
it is problem like this i run in to that i like chevys i put a serpentine belt set up on my 454 for free just pulled it off a 94 bad 454 that i got in a truck for free and it fit right in a 68 pu but my 390 i have to buy after market 600 bucks and they made so many diff. types on a 390 and i just happen to have the rare set up witch is a 63 t bird 390 one year only motor even takes a diff. bell housing have to custom fit the after market set up even on everything and the 390 that i have only came in a 63 t bird but 400 hp stock with tri power for 75 bucks rebuilt with 3,856 miles on it now i know y i got it cheap u can't get parts for it only the guts u can get but it does look cool in my high boy any one need 429 motor stands for a 67 to 72 high boy have a set sitting
Good info 👍👍
Right on, great info!
Now I know why I see guy's claiming all over small block Ford's I hope that's an issue I don't face with putting a 78 Ford 400 in my 73 Torino.
Nice video, thank you.
Can you stroke a 351M more than a 351C?
One side note is the paint on these balancers sucks, mine peeled off in less than six months give it a couple of coats of clear epoxy to preserve it.
If you are using the earlier water pumps and going to a front sump oil pump you need the earlier timing cover www.speedwaymotors.com/EngineQuest-TC351A-EQ-302-351W-Ford-Timing-Cover,1897.html
I have a question if I can pick your brain for a while? I have a later 6 bolt trans 289 that I am putting in a 1970 Torino, just to drive while I build my 302. Anyway, what I am planning to do is use a four bolt balancer from a 72 302, so it is still a 28oz I believe? I have everything from the 1970 pulley setup that was on the 1980 model 302 block that was in the car, and I believe the balancer is a 50oz. It's a D2TE-D3a. Anyway, as long as I use the four bolt 28 ounce balancer that came on a 72 302, but everything else from the 1970 pulley setup bolted onto the 289, everything should line up, correct? The flywheel is another issue, but I have to find out what is actually in the current setup, tooth count wise. The only thing I am really changing is the balancer on the 289, to make it a 28oz four bolt. I may use the timing cover from the 1980 block, but since the engine was swapped before I bought the car, I don't know if the timing cover is from the 1970 block, or the 1980 block that was in the car. I will have to look for a part number once I get further into the disassembly. Confused yet? Me too, lol.
As long as it's a 28 Oz it should work
You may want to read and save this: www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/FordFlywheeslAndFlexplates.htm
i am going thru a similar thing,i have a 1999 roller 302 engine and finding it difficult to find correct v belt pulley set ups.
I’m doing the same as you and using a electric water pump and I’ve had small block fords for 25 years now but sence I got this 99 GT40P motor it’s been a pain in the ass to deal with . I like the old v-belt set up where a F-100 had the same pullies and brackets as a Grenada or LTD did
So the roller engine need the 50oz balancer, but early pulleys will not fit?
This will solve the problem it has all 3 SBF timing mark locations www.speedwaymotors.com/Professional-Products-Small-Block-Ford-Harmonic-Balancers,1802.html You can order it in 28 oz or 50 oz balance factors they also fit both 3 bolt and 4 bolt crank shaft pulleys. The paint sucks so I advise giving it several coats of epoxy clear coat or clear engine enamel.
@@jeffb4388 thank you sir
What about fluid dampener? Is that any good?
Small block Chevys had a lot of different pulley configurations as well
Can an early model crank be used in a late model roller block?
no
Sir, do you do your own installation of hardened valve seats and valves for unleaded fuel use?
Yes
aren't there different firing orders for early small block ford's vs. late model small block ford's? specifically the 5.0 HO?
Yes
Yes ho uses 351w firing order because it used the same cam
I also went to UTI in Houston. Lol
What if you have a late model roller block, with an after market 331 rotating assembly that is 28 oz imbalance. What then?
The after market balancer will work
David Torres thanks. I’m guessing the block will be reverse rotation water pump. So I’ll have to figure out if it’s possible to retain V belt accessories pulley set up with a reverse rotation water pump.
@@WesternReloader Early 1980's 302's with serpentine belts had water pumps that were not reverse rotation, you can convert to V-belt and use the same water pump www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948573&cc=1188345&jsn=634 My '54 Ford has a 1984 MK VII 5.0/302 I hated the serpentine and converted back to V-belts.
I just wondered where you are located.
Phoenix
Good stuff
What did you use for the timing cover studs I have never seen them before
it's just a hardened stud from mark's nuts and bolts
Thank you I will definitely be using them in my builds I am currently building a 418ci stroker 351w factory block scat forged rotating assembly
my bored out 30 ths 289 block is cast with "c6ae-6015-c. 1966 block? anything else you can tell me about it?
1966 block good metal
Ford had great castings back then. Definitely 1966.
It's a crime when people ruin the old blocks by blowing them up or overboring them too much to try and get an extra few cubic inches which makes absolutely no difference at all.
Does anyone know if there's a difference between the early 302 and later 5.0 engine fasteners?
There are some differences
Yep, the Ford engineers were smoking crack when they were changing the front of the engines, and water pumps.
GM has some of these same issues, I know for sure. It's not specific to ford.
there out of stock on that pully
Ford = job security for mechanics and junk yards.