Thanks for a good video on how to replace this, my belt broke today and I have nearly completely dismantled the thing. Im at the point of removing the clutch, and I really pleased that you explained that. Hopefully this will work for me and I'll be on mowing again.
Very helpful and appreciated! Nice clear description and good steady video. Now I'm going to put on my greasy jeans and do battle with my mower while I'm still inspired!
I have replaced these drive belts on various Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troybuilt, ... Your ideas are on point from my experiences, most learned the hard way. I have an air impact wrench, so getting off the fan and the clutch are not a problem. Yes, some of these Cub Cadet requires taking off the fan, others do not. I just have finished replacing a governor gear on a Cub Cadet 1715, with Kohler Command CV15s. The fan did not need to be removed on this machine. This tractor is 22 years old. The clutch dropped right off, but the engine pulley did not. I needed to pull the engine off the deck for the crankcase cover removal, so I had it on the bench. The engine pulley proved to be the most difficult pulley yet. My three-legged puller only bent the pulley flanges. I drilled holes through the pulley near the hub and put eye bolts, then used the puller against the eye bolts. Did not work. I resigned myself to sacrificing the pulley. In all other cases, the engine pulley has slid off easily. This one - not so much! In the end, I had to use an air hammer, with rounded foot. Using the foot against the hub of the pulley, a couple of minutes with the air hammer broke the hub of the pulley off the crankshaft. The surface on the crankshaft was rusted. Of course, I had to buy a new pulley - about $60. But, it is a common pulley used on many of these same tractors - MTD part. Yes, the new pulley hub has anti-seize!. Getting the drive belt on with the engine raised off the deck is the best way to get it on the engine pulley. Those bolts are 8mm, not an SAE thread! I used an 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar, with 9/16 socket to rotate the double pulley tension system. I had to have somebody else hold the breaker bar, but it was beyond the edge of the tractor, not underneath. A square hole should be in the bracket for a 1/2 drive to make this rotation easier. Some other tensioning systems do include a square hole to use with a 1/2 drive. (even the mowing deck tension bracket has a square hole for 3/8 drive, so that the mower deck belt can be mounted properly) Another problem is getting the electric clutch remounted. It all sounds and looks pretty simple. I work underneath and do not tip up the tractor. Getting the clutch rotated properly for the key, and holding the heavy clutch in place is hard for this old man. Your video showed the bolt used to screw into the engine crankshaft (#1 bolt). I bought a bolt of same size, same threads, but 3/4" longer (#2 bolt). This allows me to put the clutch up to the crankshaft, get the #2 bolt in place for temporarily holding the heavy clutch. How I can use both hands to maneuver the clutch key in the right rotational position, fit it up against the engine pulley (or 2 washers as you show), quickly removed #2 and replace with #1 bolt. Now, it can be finger tightening, then fully tightened with my impact. I have used this two-bolt system for ZTR mowers as well. Sorry - just not strong enough to hold the clutch up with one hand and rotate to fit in the key with the second hand, at the same time. I hope some of this may be helpful for others making this repair.
Thanks for all you wrote. And the additional info. And for tuning in..don’t disagree with any of it and me at 58 see the light at the end of tunnel as far as not being able to do as I once did…that’s why we start working smarter then harder. Lol
@@sneezeacres5240 I am 82 and do not get up/down, in/out as easily as a few years ago. Carrying the engine on and off the deck was a load. But, holding the clutch in open space to get the key aligned required arm strength I do not have. I work by myself for the most part. I think the "smarter" memo got lost in the mail. 😎😎
I think I can trust your advice more so than some of the videos on here by looking at how well you keep your equipment clean and taken care of! Thanks for the help! I have an LTX 1046, which isn't saying much because so many are of the same idiotic design! A real genius had to have been drunk or plain stupid to design the belt set up like this! Got a lot of those same wizards at work! Unbelievable! Thought I was gonna go out R & R that belt in a matter of minutes, but here I'll be, two days in! And here I thought I got a great deal on the thing at $400 bucks! I'm doing all the work on it and I still have put $400 more into it for front wheels & tires, deck rebuild kit and new drive belt and pullies! Ain't nuthin' easy or cheap any more!😠
Thanks for kind words and sorry for your problems. I try to look at it that if I had someone else do the work and get parts it have more $$$$ in it AND I learn AND if I mess it up royally I can always take in to someone which so far haven’t had to knock on wood. I only share what I have found or been through not saying my way is the only way. Appreciate your comments and tuning in. Good luck
Great, helpful video. I always use Anti-seize, also. I just completed this drive belt replacement on my Cub Cadet LT-1045. I did not need to remove the fan, and I did not need to remove the 4 engine mounting bolts, and I did not need to lift the engine up. The pulley on the engine slides down the engine shaft and allows you to slip the belt off/on, once it clears the 3 metal guide tabs. I also used an electric impact gun to remove the bolt through the PTO clutch. Just thought I'd share my experience. Thanks for your video!
Okey. Thanks for this video! I changed mine and reassembled everything and i tighten the pto clutch hex screw with a hand torque wrench as hard as I could before it start making the pto clutch and engine pulley spine too so I thought it was tight enough and then after 45 min of mowing today the hex screw got loose and the pto clutch fell. I didn't lock the top part (underneath the blower part under the hood. Also my pto clutch was not flush against the drive pulley even with the washers. So i added 2 mores but everything dropped as soon as I engaged the pto on the second attempt. I hope it makes sens. I wish I could show you that way you could help me out.
Somehow with shear will power, I got the fan section of the belt without taking off the fan. The whole setup kind of sucks. Thanks for your helpful hints
Yep that's about the only and most logical way I could figure out how to replace the drive belt! Besides heating up the crank and using a pulley then melting the crank seal.
Well yes I will agree. I say that knowing that there are different ways to do this. I’ve done this a few times as I’ve had a couple of these mowers over the years. I’ve always had the problem with drive pulley “welding” itself on mower shaft as I use to wash mine quite often then good ole rust sets in. Can be helped if a guy was to coat that shaft with pulley off with anti seize which would help. But my vid shows how to replace drive belt when pulley won’t come off. As the first time I did this I used a pulley puller and literally destroyed it getting it off. Lol lessons learned. Thanks for your input. We’re all always learning.
@@sneezeacres5240if you grease often enough, there is no air in the greased areas where dirt would be able to penetrate. That’s the reason there are frequent intervals on grease.
check out Mower Mike's Garage videos on replacing the drive belt - his videos and this one will completely describe how to replace a drive belt on a MTD Super Bronco with a kohler - that I have - that mower is basically exactly the same as a Cub Cadet LTX1050VT - this video and Mower Mike's Garage videos will clearly describe the procedure for a MTD Super Bronco and a Cub Cadet LTX1050VT mowers.
Bro there is a tentioner pulley there in plain sight. Lmao you don't have to remove the trans fan. However on the front pulley you will have to remove clutch to get belt off... Save yourself some time and release tention from pulley . None that other B.s
There sure is tension pulley under mower..However there are keepers under that trans fan that keep belt In place on pulley under fan much like front. Belt won’t come off unless fan is off. Also video shows clutch removed BUT…BUT once again in most cases that belt drive pulley on motor won’t slide off after many years of being there and you don’t want to bend that pulley or tabs to get belt off thus this way is quick and not damaging. Thanks for comments to help me explain this further..
You don't have to take off the engine pulley if it's stuck. There is a work around you can do. If you can slide down the engine pulley it is best to do so. I can replace one of these belts in no time.
Lots of good pointers, but, yeah I'm gonna place my machine vertical and not be crawling under it. Otherwise it's good to point out don't be bending tabs. One day they're going to break.
Thanks for your comments. I was always concerned about oil getting somewhere it shouldn’t. Spark plugs are towards front so prob ok. Or drain oil before tipping up. Good luck
someone else had said the same. On mine I have years thaat stick up on the pully under fan.. dont see how without taking off fan.. Oh well maybe mine is different.. Ill have to do it again down the road im sure so...
@@sneezeacres5240 Thanks. They had it serviced (new belt put on) , and I’m not sure if they even put the bolt back in at all. 🤷♂️ Pulley just worked it’s way off. I can’t find the bolt on their 2 acres. Appreciate your tip! ✌️
@@sneezeacres5240 yeah mine is same length but cause its a rover in Australia. Completely "different". I got my last off amazon. Went and bought an 85 inch today and its wrong. Im beat. One coming from amazon again. Mine has the kholer V-twin so i just lift it up as that motor can be run flat or horizontal. Makes it a little easier...also the drive flywheel should come off with the clutch champ. I just pull the flywheel down to slip the belt on with the mower on its backwheels and seat on the ground. Mind you yours looks way better at 11yo than mine at 6yo...rains a lot here. Cant always keep it undercover.
The pulley is ceased/rusted on the crank and can be nearly impossible to remove. I sprayed PB blaster and let it sit a night now going to see the results. No go removed bolts to engine like video.
Instead of putting the locking pliers on the flywheel to keep the motor from spinning you just take out the clutch bolt before you remove the clutch bar holding the clutch
My 1550 doesn't require removal of the transmission fan and it's held on by three screws. The nut just holds the pulley on the transmission shaft. The most complicated part of this whole project is removing the clutch. Why does no one bother to show that process as it is critical to attaching the belt to the drive shaft pulley?
About removing the clutch. … good point i guess I never had a problem getting one off and for me I had removed mine early in the life of my mower so I put anti seize on the bolt that holds the clutch up. Other than that bolt seizing up the clutch usually comes out. I’ve had three of these type mowers and that has been my luck any way. Thanks for commenting..
good video - BUT - before you start to replace the drive belt set the parking brake - it relieves pressure on the drive belt so you can remove the belt from the pulleys - also, underneath - I put a vice grip onto one side/lip of the transmission pulley from underneath and the vice grip hits the frame of the transmission and allows you to remove the nut - also underneath - remove the pulleys not the guard pin - it's easier to put the belt on the pulleys and then bolt them back in with the new belt installed.
On my mower below the fan is a pulley mine has two steel tabs that run up beside the pulley to keep belt in place. You can’t slip belt between tabs and pulley I tried believe me. So that is why.
You do not need to remove the fan! You simply cut off the old belt and begin the new belt replacement by feeding it over top of the fan onto the pulley! Don’t remove battery don’t remove battery tray none of that.
3:66 on mine shows two dog ears that help keep belt in place on pulley that is below that fan.. you cannot get belt in pulley without lifting pulley up above those ears..and taking off fan.. at least on my model anyway.. thanks for your comments..yours may be different..
There’s been different comments about this saying there are easier ways but I’ve done this on three different mowers with similar components and have found for me this works well. Guessing there are always differences in the same mowers even. Glad you tuned in
Thanks for a good video on how to replace this, my belt broke today and I have nearly completely dismantled the thing. Im at the point of removing the clutch, and I really pleased that you explained that. Hopefully this will work for me and I'll be on mowing again.
Very helpful and appreciated! Nice clear description and good steady video. Now I'm going to put on my greasy jeans and do battle with my mower while I'm still inspired!
Thank you and good luck
I have replaced these drive belts on various Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troybuilt, ... Your ideas are on point from my experiences, most learned the hard way. I have an air impact wrench, so getting off the fan and the clutch are not a problem. Yes, some of these Cub Cadet requires taking off the fan, others do not.
I just have finished replacing a governor gear on a Cub Cadet 1715, with Kohler Command CV15s. The fan did not need to be removed on this machine. This tractor is 22 years old.
The clutch dropped right off, but the engine pulley did not. I needed to pull the engine off the deck for the crankcase cover removal, so I had it on the bench. The engine pulley proved to be the most difficult pulley yet. My three-legged puller only bent the pulley flanges. I drilled holes through the pulley near the hub and put eye bolts, then used the puller against the eye bolts. Did not work. I resigned myself to sacrificing the pulley. In all other cases, the engine pulley has slid off easily. This one - not so much!
In the end, I had to use an air hammer, with rounded foot. Using the foot against the hub of the pulley, a couple of minutes with the air hammer broke the hub of the pulley off the crankshaft. The surface on the crankshaft was rusted. Of course, I had to buy a new pulley - about $60. But, it is a common pulley used on many of these same tractors - MTD part. Yes, the new pulley hub has anti-seize!.
Getting the drive belt on with the engine raised off the deck is the best way to get it on the engine pulley. Those bolts are 8mm, not an SAE thread! I used an 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar, with 9/16 socket to rotate the double pulley tension system. I had to have somebody else hold the breaker bar, but it was beyond the edge of the tractor, not underneath. A square hole should be in the bracket for a 1/2 drive to make this rotation easier. Some other tensioning systems do include a square hole to use with a 1/2 drive. (even the mowing deck tension bracket has a square hole for 3/8 drive, so that the mower deck belt can be mounted properly)
Another problem is getting the electric clutch remounted. It all sounds and looks pretty simple. I work underneath and do not tip up the tractor. Getting the clutch rotated properly for the key, and holding the heavy clutch in place is hard for this old man. Your video showed the bolt used to screw into the engine crankshaft (#1 bolt). I bought a bolt of same size, same threads, but 3/4" longer (#2 bolt). This allows me to put the clutch up to the crankshaft, get the #2 bolt in place for temporarily holding the heavy clutch. How I can use both hands to maneuver the clutch key in the right rotational position, fit it up against the engine pulley (or 2 washers as you show), quickly removed #2 and replace with #1 bolt. Now, it can be finger tightening, then fully tightened with my impact. I have used this two-bolt system for ZTR mowers as well. Sorry - just not strong enough to hold the clutch up with one hand and rotate to fit in the key with the second hand, at the same time.
I hope some of this may be helpful for others making this repair.
Thanks for all you wrote. And the additional info. And for tuning in..don’t disagree with any of it and me at 58 see the light at the end of tunnel as far as not being able to do as I once did…that’s why we start working smarter then harder. Lol
@@sneezeacres5240 I am 82 and do not get up/down, in/out as easily as a few years ago. Carrying the engine on and off the deck was a load. But, holding the clutch in open space to get the key aligned required arm strength I do not have. I work by myself for the most part. I think the "smarter" memo got lost in the mail. 😎😎
I think I can trust your advice more so than some of the videos on here by looking at how well you keep your equipment clean and taken care of! Thanks for the help! I have an LTX 1046, which isn't saying much because so many are of the same idiotic design! A real genius had to have been drunk or plain stupid to design the belt set up like this! Got a lot of those same wizards at work! Unbelievable! Thought I was gonna go out R & R that belt in a matter of minutes, but here I'll be, two days in! And here I thought I got a great deal on the thing at $400 bucks! I'm doing all the work on it and I still have put $400 more into it for front wheels & tires, deck rebuild kit and new drive belt and pullies! Ain't nuthin' easy or cheap any more!😠
Thanks for kind words and sorry for your problems. I try to look at it that if I had someone else do the work and get parts it have more $$$$ in it AND I learn AND if I mess it up royally I can always take in to someone which so far haven’t had to knock on wood. I only share what I have found or been through not saying my way is the only way. Appreciate your comments and tuning in. Good luck
Thanks, outstanding instructions, easy to follow with some great solutions!
Thank you for your comments and for watching.
Forgot where the washers go on my clutch when I took mine apart ,mines the double washers as well. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching
thanks it was a good video my problem was that the spring was off and i had to see where it when
An electric impact wrench is very good for removing the trans fan nut with a 6" extension. Good video
Great idea!!!!!
I put a small pipe wrench above the drive pulley to stop the motor from spinning then turned the screw off
Wish I’d known about putting the 1 1/4 socket on the motor! Took hours to get the clutch bolt off!
Oh No!! Ya the socket is the best way...however I have used large vice-grips before to..Dont forget to put anti-seize on for next time. Helps alot..
Great, helpful video. I always use Anti-seize, also.
I just completed this drive belt replacement on my Cub Cadet LT-1045. I did not need to remove the fan, and I did not need to remove the 4 engine mounting bolts, and I did not need to lift the engine up. The pulley on the engine slides down the engine shaft and allows you to slip the belt off/on, once it clears the 3 metal guide tabs. I also used an electric impact gun to remove the bolt through the PTO clutch. Just thought I'd share my experience. Thanks for your video!
That’s a good idea but I use my 3/8 air impack but if you don’t have one it’s a great way to do it
Okey. Thanks for this video! I changed mine and reassembled everything and i tighten the pto clutch hex screw with a hand torque wrench as hard as I could before it start making the pto clutch and engine pulley spine too so I thought it was tight enough and then after 45 min of mowing today the hex screw got loose and the pto clutch fell. I didn't lock the top part (underneath the blower part under the hood. Also my pto clutch was not flush against the drive pulley even with the washers. So i added 2 mores but everything dropped as soon as I engaged the pto on the second attempt. I hope it makes sens. I wish I could show you that way you could help me out.
If I understand correctly I don’t think you got it tightened enough then the clutch bolt that is. Hard to know from my end
Would the top pulley not come off ??
I can see removing engine bolts if it is stuck
Somehow with shear will power, I got the fan section of the belt without taking off the fan. The whole setup kind of sucks. Thanks for your helpful hints
Yes, suck it does. Thanks for watching
Yep that's about the only and most logical way I could figure out how to replace the drive belt!
Besides heating up the crank and using a pulley then melting the crank seal.
Yep lol. Thanks for commenting and watching
Used a clamp (C or Wood clamp) as a belt tightener in placed of the screwdriver method.
Ya! 👍🏻
Regarding FOXMOTH's advice to clamp a vicegrip onto a pulley lip, imho, doing so runs a great risk of damaging a pulley
Well yes I will agree. I say that knowing that there are different ways to do this. I’ve done this a few times as I’ve had a couple of these mowers over the years. I’ve always had the problem with drive pulley “welding” itself on mower shaft as I use to wash mine quite often then good ole rust sets in. Can be helped if a guy was to coat that shaft with pulley off with anti seize which would help. But my vid shows how to replace drive belt when pulley won’t come off. As the first time I did this I used a pulley puller and literally destroyed it getting it off. Lol lessons learned.
Thanks for your input. We’re all always learning.
Cut the old belt with side cutters??
When you do wash your tractor/mower, follow with the blower to force water from the nooks and crannies. Everything will dry faster.
Agree. And grease all grease fittings to push out any dirt and moisture..
@@sneezeacres5240if you grease often enough, there is no air in the greased areas where dirt would be able to penetrate. That’s the reason there are frequent intervals on grease.
No need to take the fan off. Drop the belt over the fan and onto the pulley first. Then connect to front pulleys.
Yours might be different but on mine there are keepers under that trans fan that keep belt In place on pulley.
I have found you can slide the pulley off the bottom and it doesn’t require you having to unbolt the engine..
That’s the way it’s supposed to work but I find the pulley is usually rusted in place
check out Mower Mike's Garage videos on replacing the drive belt - his videos and this one will completely describe how to replace a drive belt on a MTD Super Bronco with a kohler - that I have - that mower is basically exactly the same as a Cub Cadet LTX1050VT - this video and Mower Mike's Garage videos will clearly describe the procedure for a MTD Super Bronco and a Cub Cadet LTX1050VT mowers.
My belt exploded and it’s all wrapped around the pulley. But when I pull the pin at back to put it in neutral. It’s still stuck in gear won’t move???
Did you try rocking the mower front to back to see if it will let it engage. Belt is wrapped around the pully below motor?
I guess using pneumatic impact I have no problem getting the clutch off or the fan off or the pulley underneath the fan off impacts battery operated
Bro there is a tentioner pulley there in plain sight. Lmao you don't have to remove the trans fan. However on the front pulley you will have to remove clutch to get belt off... Save yourself some time and release tention from pulley . None that other B.s
There sure is tension pulley under mower..However there are keepers under that trans fan that keep belt In place on pulley under fan much like front. Belt won’t come off unless fan is off. Also video shows clutch removed BUT…BUT once again in most cases that belt drive pulley on motor won’t slide off after many years of being there and you don’t want to bend that pulley or tabs to get belt off thus this way is quick and not damaging. Thanks for comments to help me explain this further..
You don't have to take off the engine pulley if it's stuck. There is a work around you can do. If you can slide down the engine pulley it is best to do so. I can replace one of these belts in no time.
Lots of good pointers, but, yeah I'm gonna place my machine vertical and not be crawling under it. Otherwise it's good to point out don't be bending tabs. One day they're going to break.
Thanks for your comments. I was always concerned about oil getting somewhere it shouldn’t. Spark plugs are towards front so prob ok. Or drain oil before tipping up. Good luck
You can loop the belt around the fan without removing the fan.
Edit: talking about an SLT1554. His is probably different.
someone else had said the same. On mine I have years thaat stick up on the pully under fan.. dont see how without taking off fan.. Oh well maybe mine is different.. Ill have to do it again down the road im sure so...
thanks for watching and input..
Can u tell me what size the bolt is that holds the PRO clutch on? Looks like a 3-31/2” lng. shoulder bolt maybe? English or metric threads?
7/16-20, 3.50, grade 5. According to the parts book
@@sneezeacres5240 Thanks very much! My elderly neighbors fell out and dropped the pulley. Much appreciated 🕊
@@StrdFrgman lol welcome however don’t thank to soon cub says that’s it wait till you put it in then thank me lol
Also fell out…???? Put a dab of BLUE lock tight on the end before putting in
@@sneezeacres5240 Thanks. They had it serviced (new belt put on) , and I’m not sure if they even put the bolt back in at all. 🤷♂️ Pulley just worked it’s way off. I can’t find the bolt on their 2 acres. Appreciate your tip!
✌️
What size belt? Same as mine amd an 85 inch is too long.
Mtd part 954-04207 I got mine off ebay
@@sneezeacres5240 yeah mine is same length but cause its a rover in Australia. Completely "different". I got my last off amazon. Went and bought an 85 inch today and its wrong. Im beat. One coming from amazon again. Mine has the kholer V-twin so i just lift it up as that motor can be run flat or horizontal. Makes it a little easier...also the drive flywheel should come off with the clutch champ. I just pull the flywheel down to slip the belt on with the mower on its backwheels and seat on the ground. Mind you yours looks way better at 11yo than mine at 6yo...rains a lot here. Cant always keep it undercover.
OR just slide the engine pulley down an inch while clutch is off instead of unbolting engine
Yep that works too if you are able to slide the pulley. Generally it’s rusted on the shaft. But your right.
The pulley is ceased/rusted on the crank and can be nearly impossible to remove. I sprayed PB blaster and let it sit a night now going to see the results. No go removed bolts to engine like video.
Instead of putting the locking pliers on the flywheel to keep the motor from spinning you just take out the clutch bolt before you remove the clutch bar holding the clutch
My 1550 doesn't require removal of the transmission fan and it's held on by three screws. The nut just holds the pulley on the transmission shaft. The most complicated part of this whole project is removing the clutch. Why does no one bother to show that process as it is critical to attaching the belt to the drive shaft pulley?
About removing the clutch. … good point i guess I never had a problem getting one off and for me I had removed mine early in the life of my mower so I put anti seize on the bolt that holds the clutch up. Other than that bolt seizing up the clutch usually comes out. I’ve had three of these type mowers and that has been my luck any way. Thanks for commenting..
Because Yankees don’t have common sense, so they over complicate everything.
good video - BUT - before you start to replace the drive belt set the parking brake - it relieves pressure on the drive belt so you can remove the belt from the pulleys - also, underneath - I put a vice grip onto one side/lip of the transmission pulley from underneath and the vice grip hits the frame of the transmission and allows you to remove the nut - also underneath - remove the pulleys not the guard pin - it's easier to put the belt on the pulleys and then bolt them back in with the new belt installed.
I don't understand why you took the fan off there is plenty of room to put it over the top
On my mower below the fan is a pulley mine has two steel tabs that run up beside the pulley to keep belt in place. You can’t slip belt between tabs and pulley I tried believe me. So that is why.
You do not need to remove the fan! You simply cut off the old belt and begin the new belt replacement by feeding it over top of the fan onto the pulley! Don’t remove battery don’t remove battery tray none of that.
3:66 on mine shows two dog ears that help keep belt in place on pulley that is below that fan.. you cannot get belt in pulley without lifting pulley up above those ears..and taking off fan.. at least on my model anyway.. thanks for your comments..yours may be different..
If Volkswagen built and engineered a mower this would be how they would have designed it.Complicated junk!
There’s been different comments about this saying there are easier ways but I’ve done this on three different mowers with similar components and have found for me this works well. Guessing there are always differences in the same mowers even. Glad you tuned in
Waste of time
Well alrighty then