Glue in bolt example for highlines and climbing

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2024
  • David Keller (@ddawgdavid) and Ben Black (@benblackii) did a ton of highline bolt homework and is developing their local crag (Buckskin Crags in Canon City, CO) with great bolting technique. David put together this video showing his process so you can learn from a real life example.
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ความคิดเห็น • 71

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  ปีที่แล้ว

    Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

  • @Dgozz122
    @Dgozz122 4 ปีที่แล้ว +37

    Little tid bit for ya. When your trying to drill and the bit wont stay in one spot, switch the hammer drill to hammer only. This way the bit is just moving up and down and not spinning. This will dig a little hole for your bit to sit in. Once you establish a little notch where you are trying to drill then swich back to spin. I use these hammer drills almost on a daily basis and thats the trick i use.

  • @denyspoyner4150
    @denyspoyner4150 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I've learned more about rocks, anchors, fail ratings, bolts vs. glue ins etc. from this channel than 20 years of rock climbing. Thanks for all your hard work, subbed !

    • @denyspoyner4150
      @denyspoyner4150 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I've been on a "binge watch" for a few days, fascinating content !

  • @conchosewing
    @conchosewing 5 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    very well made video. clean and precise. I like the idea behind placing bolts backwards, using the main axis of the bolt

  • @neosky972
    @neosky972 5 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    Nice work! I would recommend Popsicle sticks instead of Q-tips, they're flat so it's easier to scoop the glue, they don't have a bunch of fibers which could detach and mix in the glue, and they're made of wood (biodegradable). If you get the hang of it you will be able to skip the duct tape around the bolt (less effort and plastic used) by scooping the glue in a paper towel as you push the bolt in. If a bit of glue gets on the rock you can always wipe it with paper towel and cover it with dust (has to be mineral dust, organic stuff will degrade and reveal the glue over time), you won't see a thing once dry ;)

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That's a good idea! I'll add that into next video example we do. Qtips do get stringy. I did the GGBY net bolts without duct tape mostly because it doesn't stick to sand stone well, and it was a lot harder to stay clean. I prefer duct tape if it sticks to keep the rock clean even though it is a bit more waste.

  • @Abeuss
    @Abeuss 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Epoxy anchoring is the same no matter what you are anchoring. Three rules:
    1. make sure the hole is deep enough and wide enough to accept the anchor.
    2. Make sure the hole is clean and dry.
    3. Put enough epoxy in the hole to completely encase the anchor.
    Tip for step 3:
    Fill the hole with epoxy from the deepest part of the hole out to the shallowest. It will get air pockets otherwise that will blow most of the adhesive out of the hole when you put the anchor in, leaving voids around the bolt weakening the anchor pointing possibly to the point of failure. You do however want epoxy to run out of the hole around the bolt a little… it is just a sign that you used enough.

  • @wouter211081
    @wouter211081 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Very well made David and Ryan! Patiently and thoroughly explained about the process in great detail. With some very usefull advice. Thumbs up! \../😎👍🏻

  • @lytic
    @lytic 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Rad mang, thanks for the informative video! Appreciation from Australia!

  • @ggghggfff8659
    @ggghggfff8659 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm 40 years old. Everyone said I would die when I was young. Don't let these dorks scare you. Live your dreams!

  • @shaundominick3719
    @shaundominick3719 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I think you did an amazing job. I’m not a rock climber and I’ve never bolted anything but if i were to bolt anything it would definitely be like that. Drilling that extra bit for the bottom of the eye to fit down flush into the rock was brilliant. Great vid, you could potentially save people lives with it. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

  • @1underwaterant
    @1underwaterant 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    You are 100 % correct at 12.31min. Good job. Yes I know. I'm a Mechanical Engineer.

  • @ElseeKay
    @ElseeKay 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    i would recommend bringing a bit of fine sandpaper (glued to popsicle sticks or anything flat) to shave down the excess glue smooth.
    and an extra thought i had that might very well be impractical (or unsafe!):
    i'm not sure how the glue reacts to heat (if it's a two part mixed agent, then they probably activate and generate heat in their chemical bonding process) but you could consider briefly melting the top surface of the glue to get it glossy smooth, but this would probably require testing.

    • @ElseeKay
      @ElseeKay 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      using a lighter

  • @letmefeelthevibes
    @letmefeelthevibes 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Excellent episode!

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      David really did an A+ job on it

  • @finessum2timez
    @finessum2timez 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I just stumbled onto these videos via watching Alex Holninns free climbing vids, and I have to say that they are very interesting to watch, ALOT of steps to take in what you guys do, and I absolutely love how responsible you guys are when putting these videos out in explaining every step & the dangers/responsibility of doing things the PROPER WAY. Because if people doing this aren't going to take the steps necessary....than they shouldn't be doing it in the first place.🤷‍♂️👍

  • @GregHartSk8er
    @GregHartSk8er 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Looks like you used Hilti RE500. Whilst this probably the strongest glue on the planet it is not the best suited to bolting (the exception being if the rock is perpetually wet, RE500 sets under water and bonds to wet rock). I can recommend Hilti H100 (brown colour) or Fisher's vinyl esther epoxy (light grey). Both have a grout in them that makes dealing with the glue way easier and they dont set up pink as the RE500 does. As for creating a groove for the eye - we have stopped bothering with this (climbing anchors). Creating it screws the drill bearings up completely and twisting seems to do little to lower the actual pull out strength of the bolt. (Highlining may be different).

  • @WebberAerialImaging
    @WebberAerialImaging 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Not an engineer but I'd suggest turning the bolts 180 degrees from intended positioning has reduced their installed strength. I install epoxied anchorages as part of my job and would not suggest deviation from the engineering. That said, with 3 anchorages, you're probably going to have a reliable anchorage.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      I specialize in thinking outside the box. "Know the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist". Bolt manufactures don't know as much about their bolts as you might think. We pulled these bolts you see in this episode straight out with our new BoltBuster machine and they broke (the weld) at 20kn and 21kn. That is less than a carabiner. We are testing tomorrow a bunch of backward Ps to see how they react when pulled to destruction. In theory it could be stronger because it is not pulling against the weld. Keep watching for those results. Our IG has snippets throughout the week if you want to see those. @hownottohighline

    • @kevinvermeer9011
      @kevinvermeer9011 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Definitely agree that you shouldn't deviate from the engineering, but you only have 3 anchors when everything is going fine. If the left bolt/biner/rope fails and the right one is installed with the loop forward, you have a lot of torque twisting the anchor trying to break the glue bond, which is its least reliable axis.

    • @tomtom4405
      @tomtom4405 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kevinvermeer9011 Depends on the bolt and where the weld is. Most "P" bolts it won't reduce the strength because the shaft bends from the top and round down the base of the P with a weld at bottom (example Singing Rock) so you pull on shaft not weld when backwards, but in the example of Raumer Superstar it bends at bottom and then curls up round the P so pulling backwards is pulling against the weld. Anyway this is all much a lesser-evil than torqueing a bolt in the resin that's installed "correctly" but your loading is unavoidably to one side

  • @allezvenga7617
    @allezvenga7617 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for your sharing

  • @Chris-bg8mk
    @Chris-bg8mk 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Recommend brushing the inside of the hole in between blowing the dust out. Properly sized brushes can be obtained at home Depot. Glued in bolts used a lot in foundation work.

    • @HowNOT2Clips
      @HowNOT2Clips 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I like to blow brush blow brush 4 times before gluing anything in for sure!

    • @jackmountain8503
      @jackmountain8503 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good call and that is why I was happy they did use brushes at 8:50. Since they did not have a proper tool to blow out the hole I'd recommend going to the store and picking up a cheap battery powered inflation pump for balls and mattresses, add a bit of tubing and boom you got a nice portable better than lung power hole blower under 20bucks. There is a hooker joke in there some where...

    • @elmeradams8781
      @elmeradams8781 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Why not use dust off aerosol?

  • @testboga5991
    @testboga5991 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very helpful!

  • @Kackspack0815
    @Kackspack0815 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I don’t get why you do test squirts before AND after the bolt glueing. Before is clear, to ensure a well mixed glue. But after…?

  • @1underwaterant
    @1underwaterant 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Cleaning the hole is the most important procedure.

  • @eclipsearchery9387
    @eclipsearchery9387 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Once the bolt /resin is in place and you want to camoflage the placement do not use little pieces of rock. Just search for 'earth pigments'. You can get them in many colours, they look very natural with a bit of artistic mixing to match your rock colour. Most importantly you are not making an abrasive area right where you don't want it!!!

  • @-a13x-75
    @-a13x-75 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    You should mention being careful of not adding glue on anywhere the rope might touch because if any rock dust or sand or sharp pebbles gets on there you basically just made sandpaper

  • @simonfournier-boulanger3536
    @simonfournier-boulanger3536 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just one quick comment as far as bonding goes. I don't know how relevant it is to bolting since I've never done any. If you were to rough out the shiny metal on the take part and the bottom part of the p of the bolt, you'd get a stronger bond between the bolt and the glue. If it's slick the glue has a harder time making a bond with the bolt.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Epoxy could in theory be chipped off the smooth metal but it is the shape of the metal that holds it in the rock. We can experiment with roughing up the metal though.

    • @yusm
      @yusm 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Most glue in bolt manufacturer tells you not to do this.

  • @TecraX2
    @TecraX2 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    9:30 - Not as long as you are clipped in properly, which I assume you guys are at all times (4:44)!

  • @tonyotago8309
    @tonyotago8309 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well done people's

  • @MrHassancehef
    @MrHassancehef 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good work! do you know if resin can attack nylon?

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Only in a dark alley! haha I doubt it but when would you have nylon around it?

    • @MrHassancehef
      @MrHassancehef 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@HowNOT2 when you install it :p when I'm bolting route I always put few on my rope/harness, I know, only kids put glue on there hands

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MrHassancehef i doubt it hurts it because we have tested a lot of contaminants for webbings and solvents haven't really hurt nylon

  • @raiemie7365
    @raiemie7365 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    this might be just me but the rocks sprinkled on the glue was a bad idea, I'd rather keep a clean outside

  • @Nate_dumb
    @Nate_dumb ปีที่แล้ว

    Just use air duster

  • @2967575
    @2967575 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Use ash or baby powder instead of using pebbles

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      We now recommend using rock dust from drilling holes instead of pebbles risking abraison.

  • @Fede_uyz
    @Fede_uyz 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I know glue ins are perfectly fine but somehow i just cant trust some epoxy.
    I just hate knowing how bolts are installed cause i dont trust a 5cm rod either

  • @ThaBoss3006
    @ThaBoss3006 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    All hilti….Money bags

  • @paulmitchell5349
    @paulmitchell5349 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dust mask and ear defenders next time.

  • @HungryElasticRaccoon
    @HungryElasticRaccoon 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Non-highliner here and I would just suggest that the community consider the impact of defacing million year-old rock. As an outsider and a "Mountains Without Handrails" follower, I prefer not to have permanent deformations of the mountain.
    I just thought I would share my opinion so that the community can acknowledge and discuss differing viewpoints.
    Thanks!

    • @trevordustin2613
      @trevordustin2613 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Jeff Gandt They are literally in the middle of nowhere. Also, before I started climbing, I wouldn’t even notice something like bolts.

    • @HungryElasticRaccoon
      @HungryElasticRaccoon 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@trevordustin2613 Thank you for also sharing your perspective.

    • @matthewhickey3856
      @matthewhickey3856 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Bolts can be cut and concealed with glue and rock dust but i think most ppl never even notice them

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      I end almost every episode of BoltBuster and promote in the bolting bible NOT to bolt. But I don't believe teaching abstinence is helpful, so I take the approach of safe sex education... for bolts. Id rather people understand the forces so they don't feel we need 4 bolts for an anchor and what kind of bolt to use so it doesn't need to be replaced 3x in our lifetime. My mission is less bolting.

    • @HungryElasticRaccoon
      @HungryElasticRaccoon 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@HowNOT2

  • @matthewhickey3856
    @matthewhickey3856 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    All your mistakes are why i do not trust bolts. Trad for life.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      I just spent the last three days break testing bolts in sandstone. I have to use special carabiners and connectors so the bolt breaks and not something else. Even a shit wedge bolt in wet sandstone was stronger than any piece of trad gear you have :).

    • @matthewhickey3856
      @matthewhickey3856 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I completely understand that and i hope you didn’t take offense. Im just inherently untrusting of others work. Keep up the good fight

  • @chrisw.4318
    @chrisw.4318 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    If you have to use a drill anyway, not just put real bolts?

    • @elmeradams8781
      @elmeradams8781 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Glue is stronger. Especially since the natural rock could have a weakness somewhere.

  • @SikConVicTioN
    @SikConVicTioN 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The first rule of pro deals is too not talk about pro deals lol... Do you not read when signing up for them?
    They literally tell you not to tell others you have a pro deal, and here you are online telling people you bought something with a pro deal 🤦‍♂️

  • @VanquisherUSMC
    @VanquisherUSMC 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Gay

  • @rudiger86
    @rudiger86 ปีที่แล้ว

    Who is Ryan