A long allen wrench isn't necessary, just put a 1/4" drive allen wrench on a short extension. That's how I do it and the pan can stay in place. It would help to explain that the oil fill hole is very small, so a small funnel is required. It's wise to pour in just 3.5l of oil, you may overflow if more than that is put in, then run the engine. But nothing is gained by running the cold engine up at 3K rpm, just idle for 30 seconds is fine, the manual doesn't state to rev it, for example. Otherwise this is a pretty decent video, keep it up, there isn't enough K16 content on TH-cam.
I’ve always struggled with black dipsticks and checking my k1600s oil level. I’m going to check it after my journey home tonight, takes me roughly 40 minutes and the weathers warm. How long would you recommend letting it sit and cool down before checking?
The K1200 is messier by far. The sump's drain line must be pulled down between the frame and the sump, you should plug the line to avoid a real mess. And the oil filter is deeper in, so oil gets on the exhaust even more than the K16 so more cleanup. With a little experience you can make these oil changes less messy, but not by a lot, that's for sure.
@@CitEnthusiast Not the K1200 Flying Brick! Tidy, no-mess oil change is a piece of cake. Hardest thing about it is getting the Tupperware off... and even that can be avoided if you can wiggle the engine spoiler free while leaving the main fairing panels in place. Just sayin'... 🙂
@@claudiusdunclius2045 The flying brick is a completely different bike than the K44 K12s. I have both versions and while the brick is easy to do the oil filter cover does make a mess. I've never done more than remove the belly pan, it's easy to do, why would anyone ever remove a side panel for an oil change? The K44 (K12/13 slant engines) has a pipe for draining the dry sump that is a pain, and the oil filter when removed dumps all over the exhaust unless you use something to divert the flow into a pan.
@@CitEnthusiast Was just going to remark on this. the wet filter on the K1200 is truly a mess no matter what. I stare at both of my K bikes when I feel like riding, and keep the mileage low on the LT just to make oil changes fewer.
correct. it's NOT that serious. you're not sealing a high pressure area for cryin out loud. it's a DRAIN plug and nothing more. snugged is all it needs, not 200 foot lbs
@@m.f.m.67have you considered the carnivore challenge- eat nothing but beef, bacon, butter and eggs for 30 days to see if it clears up the eczema? It’s been known to happen!
Thanks for the video - great info about the secondary drain plug 😊
A long allen wrench isn't necessary, just put a 1/4" drive allen wrench on a short extension. That's how I do it and the pan can stay in place. It would help to explain that the oil fill hole is very small, so a small funnel is required. It's wise to pour in just 3.5l of oil, you may overflow if more than that is put in, then run the engine. But nothing is gained by running the cold engine up at 3K rpm, just idle for 30 seconds is fine, the manual doesn't state to rev it, for example.
Otherwise this is a pretty decent video, keep it up, there isn't enough K16 content on TH-cam.
I needed a long allen. The extensions i have were too wide.
Oil presure is at its lowest at idle, raising the revs to 3k will give max oil presure in the shortest time
Great job showing the process.
Thank you for the video. Torque values would be helpful. And I don’t think 6 quarts is correct. My owner’s manual says 4.5 liters (about 4.75 quarts).
I’ve always struggled with black dipsticks and checking my k1600s oil level. I’m going to check it after my journey home tonight, takes me roughly 40 minutes and the weathers warm. How long would you recommend letting it sit and cool down before checking?
Do you sell the oil filter wrench? I am looking on you store page but cannot find it.
What was the spray can you used to clean things up?
Degreaser
Great info. Thanks for sharing
K16s make the biggest mess of anything I've changed oil on and I worked at an oil change place when I was a kid.
The K1200 is messier by far. The sump's drain line must be pulled down between the frame and the sump, you should plug the line to avoid a real mess. And the oil filter is deeper in, so oil gets on the exhaust even more than the K16 so more cleanup. With a little experience you can make these oil changes less messy, but not by a lot, that's for sure.
@@CitEnthusiast Not the K1200 Flying Brick! Tidy, no-mess oil change is a piece of cake. Hardest thing about it is getting the Tupperware off... and even that can be avoided if you can wiggle the engine spoiler free while leaving the main fairing panels in place. Just sayin'... 🙂
@@claudiusdunclius2045 The flying brick is a completely different bike than the K44 K12s. I have both versions and while the brick is easy to do the oil filter cover does make a mess. I've never done more than remove the belly pan, it's easy to do, why would anyone ever remove a side panel for an oil change?
The K44 (K12/13 slant engines) has a pipe for draining the dry sump that is a pain, and the oil filter when removed dumps all over the exhaust unless you use something to divert the flow into a pan.
There are bikes wit oil in the chassis more steps todo. That is more complicated 😂
@@CitEnthusiast Was just going to remark on this. the wet filter on the K1200 is truly a mess no matter what. I stare at both of my K bikes when I feel like riding, and keep the mileage low on the LT just to make oil changes fewer.
What I've seen some guys do is pour some oil in the new filter, just enough to wet the paper but not enough so it spills out when you install it.
to each there own.
Those drain plugs have torque values! You should use that in your teaching!
oil filter 11Nm
5mm plug 12Nm
pan plug 28Nm
It’s not that serious…
correct. it's NOT that serious. you're not sealing a high pressure area for cryin out loud. it's a DRAIN plug and nothing more. snugged is all it needs, not 200 foot lbs
@@keemez no one said anything about 200 foot pounds!
I know that. I was making an exaggerated example... peeps tend to WAY overtightent drains in general
What spray did you use to clean?
Cheap walmart brake cleaner
Sealing washer. If you crush that you will destroy threads in pan.
What size crush washer for drain plug?
16x20x1,5 works
Can you please tell me where you purchased your oil filter wrench from?
message me your address, ill send you a oil filter wrench for free. as a thanks for being a member of my channel
TheBMWGuy126@gmail.com
Beemerboneyard has oil filter wrenches ah filters. And no way as expensive as the dealer prices.
@@TheBMWGuy i want one i can pay, thank you
Where did you get the filter wrench?
bmwpartsguy.com
@@TheBMWGuy It’s actually not there, only traditional wrenches.
Wow, that drain plug setup would probably turn me off enough to just stick with the boxer setup lol
I just changed my GA, it wasn't too difficult. First time change for me on this bike.
How do I “Join”?
click "Join" next to "subscribe"
If you do not want to have cancer in the future, wear protective gloves when working with the brake cleaner and engine oil.
Or skin eczema on your hands. I changed oil without wearing gloves for years. Now I have hand eczema, very painful and requires constant care.
@@m.f.m.67have you considered the carnivore challenge- eat nothing but beef, bacon, butter and eggs for 30 days to see if it clears up the eczema? It’s been known to happen!
Can you suggest the best but most economical oil and filter to use?
Why no torque wrench to tighten the oil drain bolt? Surely BMW has a torque spec for it!
Allow the oil to drain for 5-10 minutes or until the flow of oil has stopped
This is so typical BMW, It just has to be abnormal and/or messy, LOL!
maintenens by bmw easy 1000 ponds