Just wanted to drop a Message to say thank you very much for these strip down videos! I have just successfully and quite easily fixed my mates 100kt that was leaking from the front cylinder inlet seal, and the breach block! Replaced barrel seal and the 3 seals on the breach block and the main inlet seal and voila all sorted and I didn’t have to strip my own 100 to practice on! Thanks again
Well done to you - servicing your own or friends' guns makes every range session even more satisfying. Glad that the videos were useful. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy oh massively! The tips on removing the inner ptfe seal with an Allan key and the removing the valve stem seal with a pin made my life soo much easier! Are you still shooting Martin???
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together I'm having similar issues with my gun this has give me the confidence to rebuild mine and shown me were to get the parts to do it many thanks
Hi Sean, Glad that you found these HW100 videos helpful (this is the 3rd part in a series of videos). Good luck with your rebuild. I would highly recommend that you get the reg pressure gauge because it is such a helpful diagnostic tool apart from being essential for accurately setting the reg pressure. Enjoyed your videos too. One thing that I would recommend is adding a 20 second blank clip (often called a generator) or a photo at the end of your videos. This then allows you to put on an end screen in TH-cam without it covering up the end of your video. All the best, Martin
@MartinHealy yes it give me the confidence to attempt it so I ordered the seal kit and the reg pressure guage from hw100 tuning . I am going to attempt it once they arrive Thanks its all new to me am still trying to get my head around the editing ill keep that in mind for the next one. Glad to hear your enjoying them hopefully they will get better as I learn how to edit I'll be referring back to your 3 videos as they explain everything
@@4d.hunting558 Hi Sean, I would recommend fitting the pressure gauge and noting down what reg pressure is and how fast it refills etc before you do the strip down. All the best, Martin
I own a hw100 and have just watched all parts and can honestly say it was a very detailed and thorough video A massive well done , spot on step by step
Hi Dave, Thank you for your kind comments. I hope that these videos help you to maintain your HW100. These are great guns that deserve to be loved and maintained well. All the best, Martin
Well done. EXC ELLENT PRESENTATION. MY HW has a leak which I suspect is from the stem valve. The original leaks from the feeder airinlet valve and the air cylinder inlet valve of the heavy original air cylinder. The seals of the valve connecting to the regulator has been replaced. But thanks to you I discoveded a polyuethane zeal under the ball in this valve. Mario from Malta
Hi Mario, I am glad that the videos have been useful. If you suspect a leak from the firing valve try putting a delayed balloon or thin sandwich bag over the end of the barrel and securing it with a few turns of elastic band. With the cocking lever closed any escaping air will travel through the transfer port and down the barrel. After a day even a tiny leak will start to inflate the balloon. All the best from the UK to Malta, Martin
What a great series of videos. I spent an afternoon partially servicing my Hw100 with these seals today, I felt your pain with regards to the breach seal, it was so annoying to get out. At one point I was convinced there wasn't even one in there at all? Countless broken cocktails sticks later, I resorted to a dentists pick, very effective. Getting the new one back in was a pain too, I found holding the seal in place with two cottonbuds, one at each end, worked like a charm, went in first try. Sadly my service didn't solve the weird air leak I encounter when filling to over 160bar. Glad yours worked out though, I said "YES!" out loud to myself as the reg gauge pinged back to 90bar after your first shot :) I may have to look at dismantling that brass valve on my rifle too.
Hi, Glad that you enjoyed the videos and I hope that they are useful. I would highly recommend servicing the brass inlet valve. This is a very simple job that only takes a few minutes. I would recommend using the uprated seals supplied by HW100Tuning.co.uk All the best, Martin
Cheers Rusty. Hope it helps you. I often film strip downs and repairs just for my own benefit - it helps when putting things back together particularly if there is ant delays due to awaiting parts etc. All the best, Martin
I have found these vids very educational Martin, especially the regulator disassembly , now to cure a leak that a so called professional has left me with ! cheers !
Hi, I am glad that these videos have been of help. Good luck with your service work. In case you haven't yet browsed the hw100tuning.co.uk website I would recommend that read the Guides and the Tips & Advice section - lots of great tips - hw100tuning.co.uk/tips-%26-advice All the best, Martin
Thanks for your lovely comment. I enjoyed the rebuild and was very pleased with the gun's performance afterwards. I hope that the videos help you too. All the best, Martin
Hi Moto, Thank you for your kind comments. I hope that you do get your hands on a HW100 - they really are a great rifle. It speaks volumes that the HW100 was a a well designed gun from its first launch and it has remained in production so long. All the best, Martin
Thank you for taking the time to produce these excellent videos Martin. My rifle dates from 2005 (its a pre-quick fill model with the screw on moderator) and worked faultlessly for 15 years, the only problem being that I always felt the shot count was on the low side. When the inevitable leak developed I was slightly apprehensive about tackling the seal replacement but the job went really well and was actually quite enjoyable - a testament to your detailed videos and the designers of the HW100. No more leaking air and the shot count has increased now that the regulator has been adjusted.
Hi, this is great news - well done to you for tackling the servicing yourself. As you say it is enjoyable and also rewarding. I hope that your HW100 gives you another 15 years of good service. Incidentally, although I recommend JSB Exact 8.44 for target shooting if you are looking for a cheap pellet for close quarters pest control then you may be interested in the results that I got when I tested the H&N Excite Econ ll pellets in the HW100 - th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html All the best, Martin
I feel sure it will give another 15 years good service. As you say the HW100's build quality is superb and a lot of thought clearly went into it from the modular design to the elegant simplicity of the magazine and the non-double loading action. Some might criticise its weight but I prefer heavier rifles and for me its a keeper. I actually have two tins of Excite Econ II stashed away and use them in my match pistol but I have not yet tried them in a rifle. I rate them very highly and reject very few when pre-sorting. To be honest for 99% of pistol shooters (including me) they will perform just as well as the premium stuff like RWS R10s. I think your 25 and 40 yard outdoor groups with the HW100 bear this out. By the way that is a nice FX chrony you have there. Cheers and ATB.
@@farmercolm8157 Hi, In case you aren't aware JSRamsbottom.com sell the Excite Econ ll at a bargain price of £3.19 (was until very recently £2.99) per tin of 500. They offer sensible postage costs but it is worth adjusting the number of tins to get best value for money (10 tins costs £4.65 in postage). JSRambottom pack the pellets well in bubble wrap and cardboard box so they always arrive in good condition. The FX Chony is good but the manufacturer's idea of hanging it on the end of the barrel is terrible. If you did do this the POI is shifted down but of course it also affects the barrel harmonics and so affects group size. My HW100 barrel is setup floating so is even more susceptible to harmonics. For this reason I mount the FX Chrony on the end of the A&M cylinder. This reliably captures the data for each shot and without affecting performance. When testing pellets from the bench the chrony data can offer possible explanations for flyers but the couple of flyers that I had when testing the Econ ll seemed normal at the muzzle. I was using unsorted but I think lubed. All the best.
@@MartinHealy Thanks for the heads-up on the Econ ll at Ramsbottoms. I actually prefer buying pellets online as my local gunshop does not seem to look after their stock too well. The idea of a doppler chrono has appealed since I saw a video featuring a LabRadar but I can't really justify the considerable cost for the novelty of acquiring downrange velocities. The FX Chrony looks to be a sensible alternative, the bluetooth connectivity and the 'talking' app are major pluses over regular chronos. Perhaps some enterprising individual with come up with a proper mount for it. As to the flyers, I always have been intrigued with multi-shot air rifles as to whether pellets can be damaged as they are pushed from the magazine into the breech. Rather difficult to prove or disprove. All the best.
@@farmercolm8157 Hi, You are right to distrust magazines in general. The HW100 is blessed with a deceptively simply magazine because the designers at Weihrauch did the hard work of indexing inside the rifle rather than in the magazine. The pellets only rub against an O-ring before entering the breech. On other guns, that use spring pressure to rotate the next pellet into position as the probe is withdrawn, the pellets can get damaged. I have a single-shot adaptor for the HW100 which I used for this pellet test. In the past I have shot many, many test groups one after another to see if there is a perceivable difference in accuracy between single-shot and magazine but haven't seen any conclusive difference. For hunting I always use magazines to ensure that I can put in a quick follow-up shot should it be needed but for target shooting I single load. When single loading I have a habit of rolling the pellet between thumb and forefinger before sliding it into the single-shot loader. This gives a final check of the pellet condition as you can feel any flats on the skirt. If you do doubt your magazine I would try inspecting some pellets under a magnifying glass then load them in the magazine and very gently push them through the magazine and then visually inspect them again for any scrapes or dents. I would also change the O-ring on the magazine in case it has aged and become hard. Another thing to watch out for is the operation of the cocking lever. I cringe when I see people thrashing the cocking lever back and forth. I always use a slow smooth back and forward operation of the lever so the probe is as gentle on the pellet as possible. The FX Chrony is worthwhile and a decent choice these days. I still think that there is room for further improvements to the app but I expect those will come in time. All the best, Martin
Hi Martin I just could not justify the prices of the HW100 even on the used market So, as I am new to this I bought a used Rotex Walther RM8. It needed the reg seals changing . As I had watched this end to end I felt ready to follow your lead. All went well till the refiill. It leaked!!!! Then I remembered, and gave it a blast . Voila, all is well. Thank you so much. Paul.
Hi Paul, So glad to hear that these videos came in useful for you. Well done for completing the maintenance yourself. Yes, the HW100 does come at a substantial cost and I don't blame you for making a purchase decision with your head rather than your heart. Only thing I would say in Weihrauch's defence is that they came up with a great design for their first PCP rifle and it has really stood the test time. Your RM8 is another lovely rifle. A friend of mine has an RM8 and I have found it to be well made and plenty accurate. Since you mention being new to this can I offer a bit of advice? The next thing to do is get hold of samples of as many different pellets as possible to test. Clean the barrel thoroughly then shoot at least 10 pellets to condition the barrel then 20 more from a rest on a bench at a target 25 to 30 metres away. Measure the size of the group of 20 shots and then label and keep the target. Next repeat the clean etc for the next pellet. Finally assess all the targets to understand which pellet is the best fit in your particular barrel. These are some high quality pellets that are bankers such as the JSB Exact which will almost certainly shoot well but they come in 3 sizes for the popular 0.177" and 0.22" (4.51, 4.52 and 4.53mm) so it is worth experimenting to find which pellet size gives the tightest group consistently. But there are also some surprisingly good budget pellets such as the H&N Econ ll which are a great option for close in pest control. See my review: th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html When you have found the right pellets for your RM8 it is worth then treating the pellets with pellet lube to get slightly better groups - very important if your are on pest control to give yourself the best chance of making clean humane kills every time. Have fun and enjoy your shooting. All the best, Martin
Hi Jouko, Well done to you for servicing your gun yourself - it is a very satisfying thing to do do. I am very glad that the videos helped. Stay well and enjoy your shooting. All the best, Martin
What a find your video's have been! You have saved me an awful lot of time because that is exactly how my rifle is behaving. Now I know what parts I need,where to get them from & how to fit them. You can't ask for much more than that. First class job, Thank you for your efforts.
Hi Andy, Thanks for your kind words. Glad that sharing the knowledge I gained will help others. I will try to get on with some serious chrono work over a full fill and will various pellet types. I have CB625 Chrono and interface to connect it to my mobile phone and record all the data - just need some time! All the best, Martin
Hi and thanks. If you are stripping down an item then filming it can save your bacon when it comes to reassembly. This can be particularly important if you have to wait for spares and your memory has faded by the time that you start putting it back together. All the best, Martin
Thanks for sharing the video. Very precise and informative. Appreciate all time and effort you took to help others around the world to better understanding. Thanks
Hi, Thanks for your kind comments. I hope that these videos come in useful to you. I have posted some pellet and slug reviews plus CO2 pistols etc on another of my channels that may be of interest to you. The H&N Excite Econ II are a cheap but accurate pellet for paper punching or ratting - th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html All the best, Martin
Thank you very much for the detailed video ! It helps me to understand the system, and i also changed the seals on my HW 100 Great Work! Greetings from Germany
Great video and very interesting what you you do at the end with opening up the regulator which I think is over looked when the power of the gun is a bit up and down. I'm surprised at the recoil but you don't mention what power the gun is running at. I've dropped my power down from 11.5 to 11.2 and the gun is smoother to shoot. Finally, I think that you can check the regulator by looking at the manometer needle on the cylinder when the gun is fired.
Hi, My HW100 is running at 11.6ftlb. You raise a good point about adjusting the power down - depending on your choice of pellets you may find that you shoot tighter groups at lower velocities. The pressure gauge on the cylinder will only give you an idea about the pressure in the cylinder - you will always need to top up the cylinder before the cylinder pressure drops below the regulator pressure (around 90BAR). I would advise extreme caution when checking the pressure on the cylinders since you are effectively looking down the barrel! Never fire the gun while checking the gauge!! In part 3 of this series of videos I fit an external gauge on to the block to accurately read the regulator pressure. Enjoy your shooting. All the best, Martin
@Martin Healy I think that at 34:16 the "problem" Sebastian had with his regulator should just be that his Pressure gauge is damped, so it just reacts slower.
Hi Vorna, Yes, I could see that Sebastian was using an oil damped gauge. I am no expert but I would doubt that the damping alone could account for the very slow rise in indicated regulator pressure. I would welcome the input of experts in this field. All the best and happy shooting. Martin
@@Peter1x2y Hi and sorry for the slow response - TH-cam didn't flag your comment to me. I bought my gauge from .hw100tuning.co.uk very reasonably priced and a very helpful diagnostic tool. I also recommend their replacement test port seal kit - hw100tuning.co.uk/shop/ols/products/reg-pressure-test-port-seal/v/XN-PRS-TST-PRT-TST-PRT - this makes it so much easier to connect the guage to the HW100. All the best, Martin
thank you sir. that is a fantastic tro of videos, I found them whilst looking for info on why my hw100 only shot once on full power, then a few lame shots before being dead as a dodo.. so following your demo I have ordered a seal kit and now intend doing a full service.. though the inlet valve will be done first and tried, then if fixed I will get a base reading with the gauge attached as mine is a .22 thanks in advance
Hi, Glad to hear the vids have been useful. Good luck with the servicing. Yes, in your case it makes good sense to service the inlet valve first and it can be removed without stripping the block. Please be safety conscious and depressurise the gun by removing the cylinder and firing it a few times to completely de-gas. All the best.
Great st of videos Martin, one can learn so so much from these , Thank You for sharing your Knowledge and Experiences with every one, Cheers and great job,
Hi, Thank you for your kind comments. I enjoyed making the videos and of course they were a safety blanket for me in case I couldn't remember exactly how to reassemble. I would offer this as a top tip whenever you are stripping anything down - film it and have reference film to ensure that you can rebuild. I find that if I have to order spares and await their arrival after the strip down then things can get a bit hazy when I come to complete the job. Regards, Martin
Thank you for an excellent video I was able to service my beloved rifle and set her up doing eleven point eight fpe With a maximum spread of seven FPS Thank you again for this video
Well done - you must be chuffed. Achieving a spread of just 7 FPS is a real success. I would advise that you keep checking the muzzle energy as the regulator gets more use and settles in just to make sure that it doesn't creep up. Glad that the videos were of use. All the best, Martin.
Thanks for the warning about the reg it’s settled now it was set at eleven three originally and has risen to where it is now I’m using jsb ten grain pellets and weighing them to achieve the FPS spread And I used the higher shore graded ptfe white o rings in the places that are under air pressure Iv had all kinds of super top end airguns costing over two and a half thousand And I can honestly say that nothing can outclass a properly tuned and serviced Hw one of the absolute best pcps out there
@@aboutthemetal8783es indeed - I thoroughly agree that the HW100 is a class act. I remember lots of scuttle about the length of time that HW took to develop the 100 but they certainly got it right. I can't see it disappearing from their catalogue any time soon. I have spent a lot of time over the years weighing whole tins of JSB Exact pellets and creating 5 or so batches of specific weight pellets for serious shooting. I used to keep the dregs that fell into the very light or very heavy categories for leading the barrel after cleaning or just plinking. But I was never really convinced that the effort resulted in sufficiently improved groups to make it worthwhile - it used to take me an afternoon to carefully weight 500 pellets to 2 decimal places. I do still use a precision sizer to prepare all my pellets. It does take a little bit of time but it does offer the opportunity to inspect each pellet as it comes out of the tin before forming a consistent skirt size. If I get bored on a wet day I may make a video on pellet preparation. All the best, Martin
Martin Healy I shoot hft every other week and I use the single shot loader and I am getting respectable scores and often out shooting guys with the top air arms hft specific rifles and the other brands Iv currently got a one seven seven And a two zero calibre rifles one full length sporter and the other a carbine sporter Iv just purchased the bullpup stock kit from Blackpool air rifles and I’m awaiting its arrival Can’t wait Have you seen the new bullpup that weirauch are releasing Very good gun All the best 👍🏻
Yes, I have a single shot tray which I used in comp. I think it may marginally improve the groups. I used to meticulously prep 50 pellets ahead of a shoot - 10 for checking zero/wind on the day and 40 for the round. Really gentle operation of the cocking lever to probe the pellet home is another tip. This minimises the chance of damaging the skirt as the pellet is pushed into the breech. Ask at your club if anyone has an appropriate pellet sizer (they come in 0.01 mm increments) and make a batch for comparison with your regular prepped pellets. Hopefully you will find out whether a sizer would help without spending around £20 a pop to try each size. Yes I saw the new bullpup online. The only thing I didn't like about it was the projected price :) All the best, Martin
Excellent video. I've just started using my HW100 again after a year. Was competing in HFT competition with my TX200 then decided to get a service done on the HW100 by my Gunsmith as I found all the air had leaked out of it. All working well again. Not sure if I want to compete with it yet though! 😎
Hi, A couple of sessions on the zero range will hopefully restore your confidence in the HW100. I like to spend time checking the POI between 8-55 yards while also shooting over a chrono. This is a great test of the accuracy/consistency of the regulator. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealyBecause of the shot count on the carbine model can you shoot the gun while the gauge is registering just in the yellow? What problems could you have? 🤔
@@Happy-Me. The HW100 is a regulated gun. So from a full fill of 200BAR all the way down to the pressure that the regulator is set, say 90BAR, the muzzle velocity will essentially constant and vary by only around 5fps from shot to shot. Try shooting a full cylinder over a chrono and record the muzzle velocity of each shot. If you now plot these numbers ona graph you will see an essentially flat line followed by a cliff edge as the cylinder pressure falls below the set regulator pressure and each subsequent shot power drops lower than its preceding shot. Knowing how many consistent shots the gun can deliver per fill is crucial in both HFT and hunting scenarios. In your case the carbine model will produce slightly fewer full power shots than the standard barrel length models since the reg pressure has to be set slightly higher to achieve the same muzzle energy. The moral of this story is that time spent shooting over a chrono is time well spent and it will help you to really understand your gun's performance. All the best, Martin
Good choice of gun! Hopefully you will get at least 5 years faithful service from the HW100 before any service work is required. Thanks for your kind comments. All the best, Martin
Hi Ed, I had no choice - the importer wasn't being helpful about servicing and the cost was too high. Just enjoy you gun until it develops issues then watch all the videos through and again during the service. You will gain real satisfaction by completing the work yourself. All the best, Martin
Thanks Martin for the very informative videos. My son and I have a number of air weapons, with the HW100 being our favourite. Over the summer it has gradually lost power, reducing from 11.1ftlb to 9.3- 9.9ft lb. Watching your helpful videos, I have decided to service it myself using Hw100 tunings o ring service kit. Hopefully an o ring change and maybe a tweak on the regulator will get it back to how it was shooting. We look forward to hopefully seeing your trigger service video in the future. ps. the gauge won't be that accurate for £20. We use similar, but calibrated gauges at work and they cost over £100. Regards Mark.
Hi Mark, Good luck with your rebuild. I would highly recommend investing in the regulator pressure test gauge from HW100tuning.com. The gauge will help you to understand what is happening in the reg before you start the strip down and it is essential for setting up the reg pressure after the rebuild. Take care and stay safe. All the best, Martin
Hi Mark, I take your point about the calibration accuracy of the gauges and I had the same thought when I was purchasing. I queried the supplier and the answer was I think within 5%. So yes not super accurate but adequate and certainly better than attempting the setup blind. Maybe you could get an adaptor and borrow a works gauge or at least use your works gear to produce a calibration correction table for the cheap gauge? All the best, Martin
Had me glued to the screen. Thoroughly enjoyed these 3 videos. Need number 4 now, so we can see your accuracy testing. Its an interesting point that the A&M Cylinders do not have a valve. I got mine from Phil at Ratworks. They are cheaper than the A&M's and they have a valve. However i have to change the O ring every time that i remove the Cylinder because it gets mushed.
Thanks for your kind comments. I haven't seen the Ratworks cylinder but I have to say that A&M give great after sales service on their cylinder. Try running your cylinder as low as possible before removing it. I found with the A&M cylinder that the Main Inlet Valve Oring 2665 survived if the cylinder pressure was down to around 100BAR. Best buy a bulk pack of the uprated Oring from HW100Tuning. Yes, I will try to get on with the chrono work. So far I have purchased a CB625 chrono and satisfied myself that the gun is legal and consistent. Interestingly the power did rise about 0.2 ftlb after 20 or so shots. I also got a USB serial interface to connect the CB 625 to my mobile phone. This works great and will be really handy for recording shot strings over a full fill and comparing various pellets. Having the data recorded on the phone for future reference will be so much easier than recording each shot manually and keying it into Excel as I have had to do in the past with other chronos. All the best, Martin
hi martin.good to see you getting your head around the regulator block servicing .. I have located a 250 bar oild damped gauge but the fitting is way too big to locate in the small threaded ball bearing location .. have you machined up the gauge fitting .
Hi Richard, I purchased my pressure guage from hw100tuning.co.uk and so it came with the correct thread size. These gauges are cheap and cheerful and are not oil damped. I did ask them at the time what the calibration accuracy was for these gauges but I am afraid I can't locate the response but it may have been +/- 2%. Anyway I was reassured that it was accurate enough for my purposes. I'm not sure where you are located but this company will ship overseas. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin thank you for your swift reply .. I have a Myford super 7 lathe and intend to adapt a screw to do the job .. I live /retired to Alvito In Portugal a lovely Portuguese village .. very friendly and affordable lifestyle. At 75 years young I am still tinkering . My gauge is a 250 bar version . €27 euros including 23% IVA. (purchase tax ) quite a posh looking bit of kit . I would love to attach some photos but am not very clever on the computer at 75 years young .EX 1980 Donnington GT champion .
@@richardwallinger1683 Hi Richard, Glad to hear that you are keeping yourself busy. I am retired too and living happily in Devon. I can honestly say I am never bored and I wonder how I ever managed to fit work in! You sound to be very mechanically competent so I bet you will succeed in adapting your gauge. One thing that my supplier stressed was not using the body of the gauge to tighten it into the regulator block but to use a spanner on the adaptor flats. It came with the sealing washer - bonded seals or Dowty washers they are called but it is essentially a steel washer that has a rubber seal built into it. Feel free to drop me a line if you hit any snags and think I may be able to help. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Dowty washers .. I used to motor race and used those on the oil cooler connections .Likewise I am at a loss as to where I ever found the time for engine rebuilds frame fabrication fiberglass molds AN go to work 11 hours away from my workshop.
Hi Angelo, I have never worked on an FAC gun. However, setting the regulator pressure follows the same tuning rules as sub-12ftlb guns. The ideal tune occurs when the hammer and the regulator pressure are perfectly balanced. If we ignore the hammer spring setting and concentrate on the regulator pressure then: - If the regulator pressure is set lower than the optimum for the hammer force then the muzzle energy will be lower than the maximum achievable. - If the regulator pressure is set too high then the hammer will be unable to fully open the valve and the muzzle energy does not increase, can be erratic, and can actually decrease. After servicing your regulator I would suggest that you apply a 'scientific' approach to tuning the regulator. You will need an accurate chronograph, a carefully selected batch of the gun's preferred pellets and a pellet trap set against a safe background. Setup the gun in a gun rest and take great care to ensure that each time you fire the gun the pellet can be safely collected. Increase the regulator pressure several BAR at a time and for each shot note down the muzzle velocity/energy. Keep winding up the regulator and shooting until you see that the muzzle energy has not increased since the last shot. This will give you the rough regulator pressure needed. Then repeat this process starting say 5 BAR below the pressure obtained in the previous step. This time increase the regulator pressure very gradually say 1BAR at a time to find the point at which the muzzle energy does not increase. You will then have found the optimum regulator pressure for the current hammer setting and this will yield the maximum velocity and the most efficient use of air and maximum shot count. Then carry out range testing to determine if this tune actually yields good groups. If the tune does not give acceptable groups then you may then need to consider a different tune using a hammer adjustment and redo the regulator to suit the new hammer force. Hope this helps. ( My top of the head guess will be a geg pressure of around 115BAR.)
Opinions vary but around 90BAR is a good starting point. In practice the lower the reg pressure the higher the shot count per fill. The muzzle velocity will be influenced by the reg pressure and the hammer force.
Hi, Thanks glad to help and share what I learned along the way on this project. I still haven't done the serious chrono work but have the gear to do it. Just need a few clear days...
Great job Martin you've helped me out a lot, could i just point out the importance of wearing safey glasses when working with pressurised systems seen too many people lose eyes, thanks again
Hi, Glad that you found the videos useful. You raise an important point about wearing safety glasses. I totally agree. Although I did urge everyone to be cautious and not work on the gun while pressurised I should have also urged people to wear safety glasses. I will now add this advice in the video description. By the way, I do practice what I preach and I always insist that my grandchildren wear safety glasses whenever we are shooting even if the chances of a ricochet are very low. All the best, Martin
Hi Great video, thanks for the information. One small criticism , I would suggest the text be written in white ( not red ) and put at the top of the screen, not at the bottom. Reason being you can’t see it very well to the right of the screen. Also where do I get the test gauge from?
Hi Micky, This is Part 3 of a series of videos. If you click on the picture icons at the very end of the video it will take you to Parts 1 & 2. The test gauge and all the seals came from www.hw100tuning.co.uk/ - they are a great company to deal with. They offer an increasing range of quality tuning parts for the HW100 and they will ship overseas. All the best, Martin
Done a major service on my hw100 purely using this video, I have only ever fired the gun now stripped it down and rebuilt it very happy, only question is gun oil gets a mention but I never seen it actually get used, where would you use the gun oil
Hi Gary, Well done to you for completing the HW100 service yourself. Gun oil must be used with great caution on airguns because the oil can deteriorate the Oring seals. Never apply oil directly and only apply via a cloth. When servicing the regulator block place a drop of gun oil on to a piece of clean lint-free cloth then rub over the Belleville Washers between thumb and finger so that all surfaces receive a very fine film of oil - not wet just enough to make the surface shine. This will allow the washers to slide over each freely as they are compressed. Apply oil via a pin to the trigger module components. Keep a small piece of lint-free cloth (say 100 x 100mm) that has had several drops of gun oil applied in a zip-lock bag in your gun bag. When you finish a shooting session wipe over the metal surfaces before putting the gun away. This routine will help to prevent any surface rust or corrosion and keep your HW100 in great condition for the years to come. All the best, Martin
Hi, Not sure who I am talking to because I just see frogmarched6869. I haven't rejoined the club again this year so far because I haven't been shooting much other than pest control. I hope that the changes at the club are positive. The last times I went I was very impressed with the changes and it appeared that the club was going from strength to strength. I would still enjoy some range time but it takes me 50-60 mins to get to the club. I know it sounds a bit odd but I always preferred weekdays because it is quiet and I can do more concentrated zeroing and ballistics. I still have my beloved HW100 and doubt that I will ever part with it. During the COVID lockdowns I bought a load of CO2 pistols and enjoy 10M plinking with my grandkids. All the best.
@@Incognito1-1 its Martin ,Martin , we used to go up there together when Andy was there , i have rejoined to use it in the weekday afternoons for some fun and setting up the rifles , they have a small group on a wednesday of mainly retired people .
Great Vids Martin, thanks for your time and effort to help others! After the reg pressure tinker what was your shot count findings and have you noticed any change in accuracy when changing the power of the rifle, either by spring adjustment or reg pressure changes? I have recently acquired a chrono which I am loving. I have found that power increases by about 0.5 ft/lb when suppressor is attached and the most powerful shot I have recorded is from a JSB exact at 10.66ft/lb but my usual power using my preferred H&N FTT is just below 10ft/lb so my rifle is well under power and was wondering if I can increase the power some how then maybe I can tighten those groups. Pellets tested have ranged from the light JSB RS and H&N Terminators to the heavier Bisley Mags which my HW100 T loves. I have found that my rifle doesnt seem to like any of the JSB stuff but I think the thin skirts and soft lead they use may be the cause of the poor consistency of accuracy. My tests show pretty much any H&N pellet is more accurate due to thicker skirts and better QC.
Hi Rob, My shot count definitely increased after I set the regulator pressure slightly lower. I would always advise people to set the regulator pressure as low as practical to achieve the desired muzzle energy. Although there is no right or wrong muzzle energy I think that most shooters would prefer to be up around 11.5 ftlb in order to get a flatter trajectory. It is worth experimenting to see if your rifle groups better at different muzzle energies although this generally is more important in FAC guns where barrel harmonics become more significant. Using your chrono you should see that a string of pellets has a very small velocity spread of say 5fps. In my experience, if the regulator is functioning well and you are using a high quality consistent pellet such as the JSB Exact 8.44, then the most important factor for achieving tight groups is barrel cleanliness. With my HW100 I know when the barrel needs cleaning because I note the groups opening up. My method is to use a pull through to draw several wet patches then dry patches through until they emerge completely clean. I use Bisley 0.22 patches in my 0.177 because the patches are a tighter fit and scrub the bore better. At this point the gun will shoot worse than before the clean! Then shoot around 25 pellets by which time the groups should be as tight as it is going to get in the conditions. If you are still getting ragged groups: - you might want to buy a regulator pressure gauge so that you can get an idea of what the regulator pressure is set to and the consistency of the refill after every shot. - try to swap pellets with friends so that you can find the pellet that your particular rifle likes best - for example try to shoot JSB Exact 8.44 in head sizes 4.51, 4.52 and 4.53. After extensive testing for FT usage I concluded that the 4.53 was marginally more accurate than the 4.52 in my particular barrel. - I also advocate lubing pellets to increase consistency. - use a single shot loader to shoot groups to compare against groups shot from the magazine. If there is a difference change the mag Oring and see if that improves things. - shoot groups with the silencer and without to check for any possible clipping as the pellet flies through the silencer baffles. You may need to strip the silencer and clean the baffles. - always operate the cocking lever gently so that the pellet is eased into the breech and doesn't get damaged. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin, Thanks for the brilliant reply. I have completed all the suggestions you did and carried out the full regulator service you carried out. The most critical part is indeed the main internal O-ring in the base of the larger part of the regulator and I now have instant pressurisation after shots like you have. Before it took about 1.5 seconds. I adjusted the reg pressure to 92bar and now have a highest reading after the overhaul of 11.6 fpe with JSB Exacts 4.50mm (Actual measurement 4.58/9). These however shoot like a shot gun with best accuracy coming from H&N Baracuda type pellets which measure 4.53mm despite the tin saying 4.52mm. I measure them with a Pelletgage from Intershoot, a bit pricey but a valuble tool for getting exact data, sometimes the tin info regarding calibre is a bit wrong. I had one tin of JSB measuring 4.49mm and on tin stated 4.53. Ever since I avoided 4.53 like the plague even though pellets that actually measure this work best in my barrel. Anyway you live and learn. When you find a consistently sized tin of pellets get what you can of the same batch. Anyways the main point is undersized pellets for your barrel can give the biggest power readings on the chrono but unfortunately they are useless for accuracy. My favourite tight fitting ones run slower and give 11fpe with a spread of 10ft/s typically, god knows how you get a typical spread of 5ft/s? I will see if there is any improvement after a barrel clean but its shooting sweet at the moment. Next test is to index the barrel! Oh and by the way make sure you have a new breech seal O-ring when you take the cover off the breech block it can only be used once, wasted about half a day trying to find the leek as I had only replaced this one the day before! Dohhh.
@@robbo2976 Hi Rob, Apologies for the slow response - I have been knee deep in grandchildren for the past couple of weeks. Thanks for sharing your experiences with your HW100. I am really interested in your pellet sizing measurements. I have never invested in a pellet gauge so please keep me posted as you learn any more. Many moons ago the classic BIC biro tube was used as a 0.177 pellet gauge - better than nothing but of course it wasn't a head size gauge. I was really surprised that you haven't found any JSB Exact to work in your barrel yet. Have you pulled through some fairly tight patches yet? The essential starting point is a clean barrel that gets leaded up by the pellet under test. I do use a 4.53 pellet sizer and I can feel the difference in sizes as I push pellets through the sizer. Using the sizer does yield pellets with more consistent skirt sizing and perfectly round skirts. This is potentially a problem to be aware of when using a go-no go guage. The hole in the gauge marked 4.52 will be a friction fit for pellets that are not truly round but have high spots on the oval that measure 4.52. However, I can be sure that taking an interest in the pellets rather than blindly taking them straight from the tin has to be a step in the right direction. One thing to watch when measuring, sizing, washing, lubing etc is to be very gentle in handling the pellets. As you say the lead used in quality pellets is soft and the skirts can easily be damaged. I would encourage you to experiment with lubing pellets and carefully measuring group sizes to compare between straight from the tin, lubed, sized etc to find out what works best in your gun and where it is worth putting in the extra effort to gain fractional advantages in consistency. If you do nothing else then at least visually inspect pellets before loading and save any dented skirts and use them for barrel conditioning after cleaning. Please let me know how you get on with the barrel indexing. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hey Martin, I only pellet size because I read somewhere it was probably the most influential dimension of the pellet. I was confused as to why the well recommended RWS Super Fields were inconsistent in my rifle. On measuring the head sizes from a single tin I got measurements ranging from 4.46-52, answering the question as to why they looked great but shot poorly. I haven't shot the sorted pellets yet as since then I've found almost all the H&N brand ones work well in my barrel, and I suspect everyone else's if they are using the correct size that fits their barrel due to the consistency from the tin. I cant be bothered weighing and sizing every pellet I fire. I have also noticed that the somewhat rough kind of octagonal shape to the skirts of the H&N pellets are rarely dinted due to the thickness of them. I tried some chrono work today and found that the pellets shot from the tin shot about 0.4 ft/lb less than the same pellets that had a fresh light coating of GT85. The average spread however increased slightly but that may be down to the low numbers tested but I reckon the smaller ones increased velocity was amplified by the slick coat. I think you must sort your pellets to some degree to get your 5ft/sec spread. I rarely get that from a full magazine but I only sort by chucking a very dinted skirt that I very rarely come across, Also the odd high reading I get does not get discounted which I know some people do. I think that if RWS sorted there head size inconsistency problem out they would have great pellets because everything else about them looks spot on, nice shape, round smooth head and round flat skirts, they certainly look prettier than H&N and JSB pellets. The barrel indexing worked well and proved that my particular one from the factory wasn't indexed. My serial number is now near the underside of the barrel rather than the side as the slight bend is now pointing up to the 12 o'clock position. My shots at different ranges now perform as expected and change in the vertical plane were as before changes in range also resulted in horizontal changes too. Its a bit of a faff but not too difficult to do, just make sure you tape up the barrel with markings rather than the suppressor which can spin slightly with all the barrel removals. I clean my barrel with a tight fitting cloth soaked in WD40 on a 60lb fishing line pull through then dry cloths. Since I polished the barrel it fouls less and needs less frequent lighter cleans. All barrels in my opinion MUST need this doing occasionally, those that don't mustn't shoot to the same standards as we that do, do. I'm going to collect more chrono data first so I have some reliable accurate data to compare future changes to the gun with. I have recently bought the brass spring guide cap for the adjuster and HW100 Tunings spring sets and have also bought the FAST FLOW EXHAUST VALVE STEM & SPRING. What the latter does I'm not sure as I have no intention to go FAC but it recommend it for tinkerers. I'm in no rush to fit these I've only just finished an overhaul and I know they can be tricky to put back together again! Happy shooting.
Hi Martin I recently followed your video and replaced all the o rings except the one inside the inlet valve Next to the ball and spring When I look inside I see a black ring but it looks almost flat and I’m not sure it’s an o ring because some where actually missing when I was servicing the regulator Did yours just fall out or did it take a bit of convincing to remove it? I don’t want to risk damaging the brass just to remove it Many thanks
Hi, Well done for servicing the regulator block yourself. Yes, I would strongly recommend that you change the internal O-ring inside the Main Inlet valve. It was that particular O-ring that turned out to be the root cause of the regulator problems that forced me to service my HW100. The original O-ring may be gummed in to the brass tube of the inlet valve. Try using a sharp wooden toothpick to prise it out. If all all possible avoid using steel pins etc because even a tiny scratch in the brass could affect the seal. Clean the inside of the Main Inlet valve thoroughly before fitting the new O-ring. I would recommend using the uprated red O-ring for longer life. Don't forget to check the muzzle speed/energy using a chronograph after completing the work on the gun. This chrono data will provide useful insight in to how consistently the regulator is working. It is worth keeping a record of the shot strings for future reference. You may find that the muzzle energy creeps up a little after a few hundred shots so remember to test over the chrono regularly. You mentioned missing O-rings in the block. Don't worry about that as there have been a few revisions and a couple of O-rings were deliberately omitted during manufacture of later guns. All the best, Martin
Hi Luis, The HW100 is all metric. The regulator pressure gauge has a 6mm thread. The gauge I purchased from www.hw100tuning.co.uk was cheap but it came with the right thread and seals and did the job OK. The threaded neck has a bonded washer (Dowty washer), a plain washer, and another bonded washer leaving 4mm of exposed thread to screw into the block. I photographed my gauge but I now realise that I can't add a photo on TH-cam - if you need a photo then PM me with an email address and I will gladly send to you. If you run into difficulties getting an adaptor made then I know that www.hw100tuning.co.uk do ship overseas. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy I would like to thank you for being so kind to help me. I went to the store's website and made the purchase of Kit 3 AT, Hammer Spring, Full Seal/Service Kit, 5 Upgraded Cylinder Seals, Reg Pressure Test Gauge & Test Port Seal, Fast Flow Exhaust Valve & Spring, Regulator Belleville Washers & Upgraded Spring Guid.......thank you, from your Brazilian subscriber
@@luisdelondrina4578 Hi Luis, You are really going all the way with your HW100 renovation. You have ordered a lot of good kit so your gun should soon be better than the day it rolled out of the Weihrauch factory. In case you haven't already seen it I would highly recommend another TH-camr 'Sub 12 Airgunners' - see his 1st HW100 video - th-cam.com/video/mwP4mLkJIqM/w-d-xo.html and there is a second HW100 video from him - excellent. You may also be interested in another of my channels - th-cam.com/video/SlcN_GBEGSg/w-d-xo.html All the best.
@@MartinHealy Thank you for the informations. In your opinion, what better lead to use on the HW100 5.5mm? I'm using 18.13gr or 1.175g JSB and also 15.89gr or 1.030g JSB. However, I still haven't found an ideal setting for these leads. Could you give me some ideas? Hugs and your friend Luis (Brazilian)
@@luisdelondrina4578 Hi Luis, Finding the best pellet for any particular gun can be a frustrating experience. All I can do is offer a few thoughts on how to approach this task. Pellet choice will depend on: - what you are shooting at, for example, are you target shooting FT, HFT, Benchrest or hunting small game (or blowing up oil barrels!)? For targets I use JSB Exact but for small game closer than 40 yards the JSB Hades is a very good choice - accurate and hard hitting. calibre - I also highly recommend using pellet lube Pellet Perfect LT1 or Power Pel. - when you find a pellet that suits your barrel then experiment with the different head sizes available for many of the JSB pellets. Start with 5.52 mm but then repeatedly shoot 20-shot groups with the same pellet type but in 5.51 and 5.53. Get others in your club involved so that you can share tins of pellets. When testing pellets clean the barrel by pulling through patches, or at least shoot a few felt cleaning pellets, then shoot 20 of the new pellets to condition the barrel then a very careful 20 shot group to test the consistency - measure the group size centre to centre. Clean and repeat with the next pellet. This process is a little tedious but it is the best way to find the best pellet. If you just flip from pellet to pellet shooting 5 shots you will be kidding yourself. If you are pleased with a particular tin of pellets then head straight back to the store with the tin and buy 10x tins from the same batch number (label on the back). - if you want to take it to the next level then wash the tin of best pellets. Then weigh them to 2 decimal places and sort into 5 or 6 piles. Roll the pellets down a slightly sloping sheet of glass to assess roundness and head/skirt relationship by the amount the pellet curves away from its start point. Use the very light, very heavy and off-round pellets for conditioning the barrel after cleaning or for plinking. Keep the piles of premium pellets for competitions. Above all have fun. All the best, Martin
Hi Sean, I can't really help because it isn't possible to say have many turns since this will dependent on the stiffness and thickness of you washer stack. Your best bet is to buy a guage - they only cost about £16 from www.hw100tuning.co.uk This gauge will be a worthwhile investment and diagnostic tool. All the best, Martin
Hi Martin, HW100 KT sub 12ft/lb .177. My above almost 3yr. old PCP has dropped power from the original 11.3 ft/lb to 8 ft/lb. it has also doubled the shot count from 56 to 112. Cylinder pressure does not get any lower even over days of gun not being shot. Can you please advise me what is possibly causing the above issues? I was super happy with accuracy and consistency and it had never before given me any problem. Your kind attention and advise will be greatly appreciated. Best regards, John.
Hi John, The symptoms you describe are consistent with the regulator pressure being lower than 'normal' (for your 100KT I would expect the regulator pressure to be set to around 90 to 95 BAR). It is possible that the hammer is not striking the firing valve with enough force to fully open it. This can be caused by the hammer becoming sticky (less likely) but it is possible that the regulator pressure has risen significantly above 90 BAR. In which case the regulated air pressure behind the firing valve prevents the hammer fully opening the valve. The best course of action to start to understand the issues affecting your 100KT is to purchase a regulator pressure gauge as you see me use in these videos. The company that I purchased my gauge from www.hw100tuning.co.uk are very reasonably priced and they will ship within the UK and to many overseas countries. Just attaching the regulator pressure gauge is simple and it will give you good diagnostic data. (Remember to remove the air cyclinder and to dry fire the gun several times to release the regulated pressure air before removing the reg test port). If you do decide to place an order with www.hw100tuning.co.uk then I would suggest that you also purchase a major service kit of all the seals. If you are confident to undertake servicing work on your gun then I would suggest that you first try a quick fix of servicing the brass inlet valve - this can be unscrewed without disassembling the regulator block. You will see me separate the brass inlet valve into its 2 halves and replace the Oring in this video. If this doesn't solve the issue then a full strip down and service of the regulator block will be required. See Parts 1-3 of this series for the full process. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin, Thank you very much for your kind and detailed advice, I appreciate the time you dedicated to help me out. As you suggested I have ordered and just received from HW100 Tuning, two sets of the major service seal kit and their regulator pressure gauge. I will first start by checking the Regulator pressure. Do I have to remove the BB ball and O-ring from the reg. test port before attaching the regulator pressure gauge ? PS : I have seen a number of times and forwarded to my gunsmith your relative three part set of videos, excellent work and presentation Martin. All my best regards, John.
@@johnbonnici8048 Hi John, Yes, you need to remove the reg test port grub screw and the ball bearing and Oring before attaching the the pressure gauge. Please do make sure that the gun is depressurised and dry fired to empty the regulated air from the plenum. I forgot to mention that I recommend the HW100tuning mod that replaces the original grub screw, ball bearing and Oring. Good luck with your testing. All the best, Martin
Your welcome. Yes it is possible to change the calibre but I would question whether it really is a financially viable option. You would need to purchase a new barrel, magazine and pellet probe and make a sleeve to align the smaller pellet probe. I remember seeing a video on TH-cam in which someone converts a HW100. I personally would not recommend it. I wonder if you could advertise on a forum and find someone who has a 4.5 cal and would like to swap. 5.5 cal is popular among the hunting community. My personal preference with sub 12 ftlb guns is 4.5mm simply because of the flatter trajectory. Pellet placement is the most important consideration rather than calibre. Have you tried experimenting with some light weight 5.5 cal pellets to see if you can improve pellet speed and trajectory? All the best, Martin
Hi Martin, yes I tried lighter pellets, but even then I could not get a good grouping until I increased the spring tension. That did give me a good grouping, but over the legal limit in my country. So yes I agree, 4.5mm give a flatter trajectory which is what I would like. Thanks for your advice.
Getting consistency and tight groups is essential. When I experiment with new pellets and find a pellet that looks promising I try to obtain tins with different skirt sizes e.g. 5.50, 5.51, 5.52, 5.53. Then I clean the barrel carefully and shoot 50 of the new pellets. Repeat the clean and shoot the next batch. This is time consuming but it will identify the pellet size that best fits your particular barrel. When you have settled on the best pellet for your gun and are used to its performance then if group size starts to increase it is usually a good indicator that the barrel needs cleaning. Other tips to ensure ultimate accuracy I would offer are: - Select and grade the pellets from the tin. Reject any pellets with dented / distorted skirts. - Wash and lube the pellets. - Put the pellets through a sizer to produce a batch with a consistent skirt diameter. - Carefully weigh the pellets into groups of the same weight. If I get some time I may make a video showing some of the procedures for selection and preparation of pellets. All the best, Martin
Yes absolutely agree with you, but there is a minimum and a maximum speed of any given pellet, and I believe "flyers" will occur also when under the minimum speed, at least with the HW100 5.5 @ 24j I have tried. The lightest JSB 5.5 would not group until the reaching minimum speed of aprox. 780 fps. and to achieve that it took over 24j.
Hi Martin, I have successfully change my HW100 from 5.5 to 4.5mm. I did this myself after watching several videos including yours. I only had to change Barrel 2678, Breech Block 2651K, Loading Bolt 2616, O-rings 2658 & 2618. O-rings on the breech block and barrel come included when you buy them new. I had to make no modifications, just swaped the parts and works like a charm. The new 4.5mm magazine works perfectly as well. I did bring the regulator down to 90 bar.
hi Martin, I need help, I'm going crazy with my HW100, I can't get it to go higher than 12ft/lb, I've tried to adjust it with various regulator pressures but nothing, I've tried 100 bar to 110 to 120 and also at 130 but the power does not increase, I also changed the hammer and the spring and also the firing valve with those of the FAC version but the result has not changed. what can I do to solve the problem?😪
Hi Angelo, Even if it is legal to do so where you live I do not recommend trying to increase the muzzle energy of a sub-12 HW100. The HW100 is a beautifully designed air rifle that has stood the test of time and is enjoyed the world over. There are several sections of the design of the HW100 that effectively limit the muzzle energy: 1. The plenum (the chamber in the regulator block in which the firing valve sits) is the reservoir of air at the regulated pressure that is availlable to drive the pellet down the barrel. The size of the plenum cannot be increased so the firing valve would need to be held open long enough, by a heavier hammer, for additional air to flow from the cylinder through the regulator. This would also largely defeat the purpose of the regulator and cause shot to shot inconsistency. 2. As I explained in this series of videos the transfer port is drilled through the block and plugged with a grub screw. In many other air rifle designs the transfer port is a removable drilled brass nipple that is sealed at each end by an o-ring. The brass transfer ports can be replaced by one with a larger diameter hole that allows a greater volume of air to flow through the port to the back of the pellet in the very brief time that the firing valve remains open. The downside of the brass transfer port designs is that the o-rings are yet another point of failure. Weihrauch choose to eliminate this point of failure and I appreciate the simplicity of the HW100 design. 3. If your rifle is a carbine version then the shorter barrel will further hamper your attempt to increase muzzle velocity. Btw the regulator piston and the bellville washer stack are also different on the FAC version. My advice, for what it is worth, is to appreciate the sub-12 HW100 for what it is and just enjoy shooting this classic rifle. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy but if I change the piston of the pressure regulator, the hammer and the spring with those of the FAC version, do you think I can reach a power of 24 joules?
@@MartinHealy but if I change the piston of the pressure regulator, the hammer and the spring with those of the FAC version, do you think I can reach a power of 24 joules?
@@angeloangelo6405 Hi Angelo, The short answer is 'no'. I haven't carried out the modifications that you are proposing so I can only offer an opinion based on my experience of the HW100 and other airguns. I think that the transfer port issue will limit the max power that your gun can generate. I base this on experience from other guns that feature removable transfer ports and these ports feature larger bores in the FAC/HP versions. To illustrate this point imagine taking a 200mm length of garden hose and a drinking straw. Try blowing as hard as possible down each of these pipes. One other thought occurred to me after your earlier messages. You mentioned that the muzzle energy did not increase despite some large increases in the regulator pressure and I would certainly have expected at least mild increases. I am assuming that you have changed the breech seal o-ring as I illustrated in this series of videos. If the seal is worn then air can escape backwards past the pellet probe when the gun is fired rather than being available to propel the pellet down the barrel. Rather than trying to make your sub-12 HW100 into something it was not intended to be why not sell and buy a replacement FAC model. Stay safe and stay legal. All the best, Martin
Excellent Video's Martin. Will be very helpful should I need to attempt this myself. Also very nice Stock, could you tell me who made yours. Many Thanks
Keith Lowther Hi Keith, Thanks for your feedback. The stock was made by Ginb. I bought it second hand but I believe that they were made to order by a supplier in I think Indonesia. I was told a couple of years ago that they were no longer available. All the best, Martin.
Hi John, I haven't set-up a .22 cal so can only say that opinions seem to vary on the 'correct' reg pressure. I believe that some people feel that around 95 BAR is right. I would suggest researching on www.tapatalk.com/groups/weihrauchowners/ My personal advice would be to remember that muzzle energy is controlled by both the reg air pressure and the hammer spring adjustment. The lower that you set the reg pressure for a given muzzle energy the higher will be your shot count per fill. If you are not intending to vary the hammer spring pressure then I would suggest setting the reg at just over 90 BAR and then test the ME. Increase the reg a couple of BAR test and repeat until desired ME is achieved. During the testing shoot some large groups to see if there is a clear improvement in accuracy and any particular reg pressure before adjusting and repeating the test All the best, Martin
I don't get it. I got air leak. changed the oring (14x1,5) under brass valve. Also changed 2 small orings - 1 inside brass valve, other one outside (i got that red ones from HWtuning). After that regulator didnt fill up. When I changed small oring inside brass valve fron that red PUR to normal black NBR it started to work. Is it normal that after a shoot i hear very quick 'psst' when regulator fills - it's just split second
Hi and sorry to hear that you are having problems with your HW100. I have emailed HW100Tuning to seek their advice on the seals. They have seen cases where the two halves of the Inlet Valve are over tightened during re-assembly and this can distort the seal. That could be the cause of the regulator not refilling. Please email Mel at hw100.tuning@gmail.com he is keen to help resolve your problem. The other issue that you mention the 'psst' noise - was this happening before you serviced the Inlet Valve? You mentioned that you had a leak. Has the leak stopped since you serviced the Inlet Valve? All the best, Martin
@@Incognito1-1 I've send email. Mel responded instantly. Propably I've overtightened the brass valve. He gave me some advices, so I must say, HW100tuning shop knows how to threat customers. 100% recommend. Thats 'psst' is propably from overthightening the valve. For now Ive mounted 2 NBR orings, even thought I thightened the brass valve it started to work fine. Now Im testing, if there is still a air leak
@@swinka Great news. Glad that HW100Tuning helped you - I have always been impressed by their service. If you do decide to take the Inlet Valve out again then I would suggest that when reassembling the valve that you hold the 10mm and the 8mm spanners in just your thumb and forefinger of each hand. By gripping the spanners lightly in this way it is less likely that you will over-tighten the two brass halves of the valve. Remember - tight but not gorilla tight! Happy shooting. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy hmm, maybe I should reassembly that again? As for now it's thigthened pretty well...but it works, so maybe there is no point of tauching it. On the other ahnd I see you also thightened it well. Tomorrow I'll check if the leak is still there
Hi George, When the cylinder is completely empty there is only the spring pressure behind the firing valve forcing it in to valve seat and it doesn't make a solid seal. If air is just trickled into the cylinder it can leak past the firing valve. When air is rapidly introduced to the cylinder the pressure behind the firing valve rises rapidly and the valve is forced firmly into the valve seat making a seal. However, this is the only time that I would recommend filling rapidly and only until there is say 50BAR in the cylinder. All the best, Martin
I’m puzzled why the inlet valve wasn’t functioning properly and for sure Sebastian Hibbert’s slow fill would have been due to the same cause. Thinking it through, I can only come up with one explanation which is the internal seal gets gradually distended with age by the ball bearing constantly pushing against it so that eventually, the ball ends up butting up against the outlet port of the brass valve and essentially the “equator” of the ball pushes past the o-ring so that the seal is now formed by pressure pushing the O-ring against the ball rather than the ball pushing against the O-ring. In this case, the piston rod will push the ball up into the inlet valve but the O-ring on the far side still forms a seal and no air is released from the cylinder. If so and I can think of no other explanation, the o-ring needs more regular replacement or needs to be made from a tougher material with a higher modulus so that it doesn’t lose its shape so easily???
Hi, Yes I too was surprised that the inlet valve wasn't opening. You are certainly right that the oring was the cause. There was very little debris inside the valve. The ball wasn't jammed into the oring and it rolled out when I separated the the two halves of the brass valve casing. The original oring was a regular nitrile oring probably PUR70. The replacement oring supplied in the seal kit from HW100tuning.co.uk is a much more durable polyurethane oring. Weihrauch built a great gun but HW100 Tuning have made a many mods available to further improve the HW100. Thanks for your interest. All the best, Martin
Hi, I just looked again at the video and realised that my earlier reply did not take account of me operating the ball valve using a 1.5 allen key before I separated the 2 halves of the brass inlet valve. So the ball could have been embedded the wrong side of the oring. We live and learn... Regards, Martin
Hi John, I shoot 0.177 so haven't setup a 0.22. However, I would suggest that you need to start at the desired output rather than at the reg pressure. I say this because the actual muzzle energy developed is a complex combination of the reg pressure, the hammer spring tension, firing valve flow rate, pellet weight etc etc. So I would suggest that you need to decide on your desired muzzle energy e.g. in the UK with a sub-12ftlb gun you will probably be looking to achieve 11.4 - 11.6 ftlb. I would suggest initially setting the reg pressure to around 85BAR. Then fire over a chrono and calculate the muzzle energy. Very gradually increase the reg pressure and repeat the chrono work. Repeat until you achieve the desired output. This may sound like a lot of fuss but it has the advantage of using the minimum of air per shot and hence will give you the highest number of shots per fill. A lower reg pressure will also require a lower hammer spring tension in order to open the firing valve and this will reduce the tendency for hammer bounce which again wastes air. Hope that this helps. All the best, Martin
Hi John, I have tried to reply earlier but several times recently TH-cam has not posted replies - apologies. My message was that it is better to start at your desired output power and work back to the regulator pressure. I recommend working with the lowest reg pressure possible so that you get the best shot count from a fill. If your gun is a UK sub-12ftlb model then I would suggest starting with the reg pressure at around 85-90 BAR. The shoot over a chrono with your preferred pellet and measure speed at the muzzle and hence calculate the muzzle energy. If necessary very gradually increase the reg pressure and redo the chrono work until you achieve your desired muzzle energy. For a UK legal limit gun I would suggest aiming for 11.4 ftlb to ensure that the gun remains legal. All the best, Martin
Hi guys, When I set my regulator to 87 bar the rifle is showing FAC on chrono which is no good, I need it to be below 12lb, when I increase the regulator to 100 bar the chrono reads 11.5 🤔 but does that mean my shot count will be very low due to extra air being used. Is there a way I can get the regulator to sit below 90 and the chrono be below 12lb as shown in the video. PLEASE HELP GUYS.
Hi Danny, The symptoms you describe seem counter intuitive. You mentioned that the chrono shows FAC when the regulator is set to 87 BAR. But have you actually calculated the FPE yourself from the muzzle velocity and an accurate pellet weight? It is worth doing this step first just in case there is something odd going on in the chrono firmware. If the FPE does indeed drop from over 12 FPE to to 11.5 FPE when the reg pressure is increased to 100 BAR then I wonder if the hammer spring pressure is too high when the reg pressure is 87 BAR but not high enough when the reg pressure is increased to 100 BAR to fully open the firing valve long enough. If the hammer spring has already had the anti-tamper removed then I would certainly try to set the reg back to 87 BAR and then decrease the hammer spring slightly and remeasure the FPE. Repeat and see if the FPE gradually drops. I will be interested to hear form you how you get on. All the best, Martin
You should have used your original air tank while working on gun , it would have saved a lot of released air ! But still very interesting video cheers buddy
Hi Paul, Yes, you are right. When working on the gun and having to remove and refit the cylinder several times it is a little annoying to have to dump all the air from the A&M cylinder because it doesn't have an internal valve. I bought this gun as a, near new but, second hand gun and the original owner had already fitted the A&M cylinder and sold on the original Weihrauch cylinder so unfortunately I don't have it. That said I certainly would not give up the A&M cylinder because it is a great upgrade. It saves a pound in weight and holds more air so gives extra shots. All the best, Martin
Firing valve !.....The leak was probably caused by over polishing the seat!? the machining micro grooves on the surface acting as sealing rings on the nylon!? Material used for the valve shaft that bite on the ridges 😏
Hi Paul, I take your point about the micro ridges and grooves but at the time I concluded that the leak after reassembly was due to very low air pressure in the cylinder as I tentatively started to refill the gun. The A&M light weight cylinder that I have on the HW100 does not have a built in valve and it loses all air pressure when it is disconnected from the gun. After reassembly I started to fill the cylinder from a dive tank and introduced air slowly and heard the hiss of escaping air from the firing valve. The problem was that I was filling the cylinder too slowly and there was not enough pressure behind the valve to create a perfect seal. When I opened the dive tank valve wider and quickly introduced round 40 BAR pressure into the gun the valve sealed perfectly. I have not had any issues with leaks since the rebuild. My habit is to always fill the gun slowly to avoid over heating and I would give that advice to anyone but in this instance it caught me out. This issue should not arise with a HW100 that is fitted with the Weihrauch standard cylinder which can be removed and refitted to the gun while pressurised. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy good point, I'm one who loves a good technical problem to test myself, I have 4 hw's 110, 100, 44, & a 45 my fav is the 100 THL K squirrel noggin knocker🐹🔫 grey ones of course✌
@@paulward2668 The grey squirrels are certainly a major problem causing a huge amount of damage to our trees and native birds. Last year I tried out the new JSB Ultra Shock 4.5mm. I would describe them as a heavy hollow point flat head pellet. They are devastating - great knock down power. I am typically shooting, netted over, at around 20 yards. I wouldn't use them over 30 yards because the accuracy is not quite as good as the Exact and of course the trajectory is more loopy because of the 10.34g weight. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy my favorite 4.5 is a 9.4 g hunter extreme good accuracy & expansion in 20 FPE FX gladiator also an 8.1g Polymag. In .22 the 15.89 Hades is brilliant for accuracy & expansion also 20 FPE for sub 12 I like premier's in both Cal's especially the heavy 4.5's for accuracy, always suck & see accuracy is king! Nice chatting stay safe Martin 👌👍 PS squirrel count last yr 345😉
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin, here's one for you!..... I've been experiencing windage prob's with the 100 lately (.22 ) karbine 12" brl, I've removed the brl band O ring! & it seems to have improved it a lot, wondered if you have any other solutions I could try ? Regards Paul✌
Just wanted to drop a Message to say thank you very much for these strip down videos! I have just successfully and quite easily fixed my mates 100kt that was leaking from the front cylinder inlet seal, and the breach block! Replaced barrel seal and the 3 seals on the breach block and the main inlet seal and voila all sorted and I didn’t have to strip my own 100 to practice on! Thanks again
Well done to you - servicing your own or friends' guns makes every range session even more satisfying. Glad that the videos were useful.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy oh massively! The tips on removing the inner ptfe seal with an Allan key and the removing the valve stem seal with a pin made my life soo much easier! Are you still shooting Martin???
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together I'm having similar issues with my gun this has give me the confidence to rebuild mine and shown me were to get the parts to do it many thanks
Hi Sean, Glad that you found these HW100 videos helpful (this is the 3rd part in a series of videos). Good luck with your rebuild. I would highly recommend that you get the reg pressure gauge because it is such a helpful diagnostic tool apart from being essential for accurately setting the reg pressure.
Enjoyed your videos too. One thing that I would recommend is adding a 20 second blank clip (often called a generator) or a photo at the end of your videos. This then allows you to put on an end screen in TH-cam without it covering up the end of your video.
All the best, Martin
@MartinHealy yes it give me the confidence to attempt it so I ordered the seal kit and the reg pressure guage from hw100 tuning . I am going to attempt it once they arrive
Thanks its all new to me am still trying to get my head around the editing ill keep that in mind for the next one. Glad to hear your enjoying them hopefully they will get better as I learn how to edit
I'll be referring back to your 3 videos as they explain everything
@@4d.hunting558 Hi Sean, I would recommend fitting the pressure gauge and noting down what reg pressure is and how fast it refills etc before you do the strip down.
All the best, Martin
I own a hw100 and have just watched all parts and can honestly say it was a very detailed and thorough video
A massive well done , spot on step by step
Hi Dave, Thank you for your kind comments. I hope that these videos help you to maintain your HW100. These are great guns that deserve to be loved and maintained well.
All the best, Martin
Much appreciated! All the best, Martin
Well done. EXC ELLENT PRESENTATION. MY HW has a leak which I suspect is from the stem valve. The original leaks from the feeder airinlet valve and the air cylinder inlet valve of the heavy original air cylinder. The seals of the valve connecting to the regulator has been replaced. But thanks to you I discoveded a polyuethane zeal under the ball in this valve. Mario from Malta
Hi Mario, I am glad that the videos have been useful. If you suspect a leak from the firing valve try putting a delayed balloon or thin sandwich bag over the end of the barrel and securing it with a few turns of elastic band. With the cocking lever closed any escaping air will travel through the transfer port and down the barrel. After a day even a tiny leak will start to inflate the balloon.
All the best from the UK to Malta, Martin
What a great series of videos. I spent an afternoon partially servicing my Hw100 with these seals today, I felt your pain with regards to the breach seal, it was so annoying to get out. At one point I was convinced there wasn't even one in there at all? Countless broken cocktails sticks later, I resorted to a dentists pick, very effective. Getting the new one back in was a pain too, I found holding the seal in place with two cottonbuds, one at each end, worked like a charm, went in first try. Sadly my service didn't solve the weird air leak I encounter when filling to over 160bar. Glad yours worked out though, I said "YES!" out loud to myself as the reg gauge pinged back to 90bar after your first shot :) I may have to look at dismantling that brass valve on my rifle too.
Hi, Glad that you enjoyed the videos and I hope that they are useful. I would highly recommend servicing the brass inlet valve. This is a very simple job that only takes a few minutes. I would recommend using the uprated seals supplied by HW100Tuning.co.uk
All the best, Martin
Fantastic video.
Thank you for taking the time to post this for all to learn.
It is very much appreciated, Martin.
All the best. 👍
Cheers Rusty. Hope it helps you. I often film strip downs and repairs just for my own benefit - it helps when putting things back together particularly if there is ant delays due to awaiting parts etc.
All the best, Martin
I have found these vids very educational Martin, especially the regulator disassembly , now to cure a leak that a so called professional has left me with ! cheers !
Hi, I am glad that these videos have been of help. Good luck with your service work. In case you haven't yet browsed the hw100tuning.co.uk website I would recommend that read the Guides and the Tips & Advice section - lots of great tips - hw100tuning.co.uk/tips-%26-advice
All the best, Martin
Great series of videos. Your presentation reminded me of Sir David Attenborough.
Thanks for your lovely comment. I enjoyed the rebuild and was very pleased with the gun's performance afterwards. I hope that the videos help you too.
All the best, Martin
Just watched all 3 straight through .Absolutely great thank you. I have not got the HW100 yet.!!!!!
Hi Moto, Thank you for your kind comments. I hope that you do get your hands on a HW100 - they really are a great rifle. It speaks volumes that the HW100 was a a well designed gun from its first launch and it has remained in production so long.
All the best, Martin
Hi Martin, that's a great video of maintaining and servicing a HW 100 ! Greetings from Germany to the island
Hi Karl, It was my pleasure. Many thanks to German engineering for creating the HW100! Martin
Thank you for taking the time to produce these excellent videos Martin. My rifle dates from 2005 (its a pre-quick fill model with the screw on moderator) and worked faultlessly for 15 years, the only problem being that I always felt the shot count was on the low side.
When the inevitable leak developed I was slightly apprehensive about tackling the seal replacement but the job went really well and was actually quite enjoyable - a testament to your detailed videos and the designers of the HW100. No more leaking air and the shot count has increased now that the regulator has been adjusted.
Hi, this is great news - well done to you for tackling the servicing yourself. As you say it is enjoyable and also rewarding. I hope that your HW100 gives you another 15 years of good service. Incidentally, although I recommend JSB Exact 8.44 for target shooting if you are looking for a cheap pellet for close quarters pest control then you may be interested in the results that I got when I tested the H&N Excite Econ ll pellets in the HW100 - th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html
All the best, Martin
I feel sure it will give another 15 years good service. As you say the HW100's build quality is superb and a lot of thought clearly went into it from the modular design to the elegant simplicity of the magazine and the non-double loading action. Some might criticise its weight but I prefer heavier rifles and for me its a keeper.
I actually have two tins of Excite Econ II stashed away and use them in my match pistol but I have not yet tried them in a rifle. I rate them very highly and reject very few when pre-sorting. To be honest for 99% of pistol shooters (including me) they will perform just as well as the premium stuff like RWS R10s. I think your 25 and 40 yard outdoor groups with the HW100 bear this out. By the way that is a nice FX chrony you have there.
Cheers and ATB.
@@farmercolm8157 Hi, In case you aren't aware JSRamsbottom.com sell the Excite Econ ll at a bargain price of £3.19 (was until very recently £2.99) per tin of 500. They offer sensible postage costs but it is worth adjusting the number of tins to get best value for money (10 tins costs £4.65 in postage). JSRambottom pack the pellets well in bubble wrap and cardboard box so they always arrive in good condition.
The FX Chony is good but the manufacturer's idea of hanging it on the end of the barrel is terrible. If you did do this the POI is shifted down but of course it also affects the barrel harmonics and so affects group size. My HW100 barrel is setup floating so is even more susceptible to harmonics. For this reason I mount the FX Chrony on the end of the A&M cylinder. This reliably captures the data for each shot and without affecting performance. When testing pellets from the bench the chrony data can offer possible explanations for flyers but the couple of flyers that I had when testing the Econ ll seemed normal at the muzzle. I was using unsorted but I think lubed.
All the best.
@@MartinHealy Thanks for the heads-up on the Econ ll at Ramsbottoms. I actually prefer buying pellets online as my local gunshop does not seem to look after their stock too well.
The idea of a doppler chrono has appealed since I saw a video featuring a LabRadar but I can't really justify the considerable cost for the novelty of acquiring downrange velocities. The FX Chrony looks to be a sensible alternative, the bluetooth connectivity and the 'talking' app are major pluses over regular chronos. Perhaps some enterprising individual with come up with a proper mount for it.
As to the flyers, I always have been intrigued with multi-shot air rifles as to whether pellets can be damaged as they are pushed from the magazine into the breech. Rather difficult to prove or disprove.
All the best.
@@farmercolm8157 Hi, You are right to distrust magazines in general. The HW100 is blessed with a deceptively simply magazine because the designers at Weihrauch did the hard work of indexing inside the rifle rather than in the magazine. The pellets only rub against an O-ring before entering the breech. On other guns, that use spring pressure to rotate the next pellet into position as the probe is withdrawn, the pellets can get damaged.
I have a single-shot adaptor for the HW100 which I used for this pellet test. In the past I have shot many, many test groups one after another to see if there is a perceivable difference in accuracy between single-shot and magazine but haven't seen any conclusive difference. For hunting I always use magazines to ensure that I can put in a quick follow-up shot should it be needed but for target shooting I single load.
When single loading I have a habit of rolling the pellet between thumb and forefinger before sliding it into the single-shot loader. This gives a final check of the pellet condition as you can feel any flats on the skirt.
If you do doubt your magazine I would try inspecting some pellets under a magnifying glass then load them in the magazine and very gently push them through the magazine and then visually inspect them again for any scrapes or dents. I would also change the O-ring on the magazine in case it has aged and become hard.
Another thing to watch out for is the operation of the cocking lever. I cringe when I see people thrashing the cocking lever back and forth. I always use a slow smooth back and forward operation of the lever so the probe is as gentle on the pellet as possible.
The FX Chrony is worthwhile and a decent choice these days. I still think that there is room for further improvements to the app but I expect those will come in time.
All the best, Martin
Hi Martin I just could not justify the prices of the HW100 even on the used market So, as I am new to this I bought a used Rotex Walther RM8. It needed the reg seals changing . As I had watched this end to end I felt ready to follow your lead. All went well till the refiill. It leaked!!!! Then I remembered, and gave it a blast . Voila, all is well. Thank you so much. Paul.
Hi Paul, So glad to hear that these videos came in useful for you. Well done for completing the maintenance yourself.
Yes, the HW100 does come at a substantial cost and I don't blame you for making a purchase decision with your head rather than your heart. Only thing I would say in Weihrauch's defence is that they came up with a great design for their first PCP rifle and it has really stood the test time.
Your RM8 is another lovely rifle. A friend of mine has an RM8 and I have found it to be well made and plenty accurate. Since you mention being new to this can I offer a bit of advice? The next thing to do is get hold of samples of as many different pellets as possible to test. Clean the barrel thoroughly then shoot at least 10 pellets to condition the barrel then 20 more from a rest on a bench at a target 25 to 30 metres away. Measure the size of the group of 20 shots and then label and keep the target. Next repeat the clean etc for the next pellet. Finally assess all the targets to understand which pellet is the best fit in your particular barrel. These are some high quality pellets that are bankers such as the JSB Exact which will almost certainly shoot well but they come in 3 sizes for the popular 0.177" and 0.22" (4.51, 4.52 and 4.53mm) so it is worth experimenting to find which pellet size gives the tightest group consistently. But there are also some surprisingly good budget pellets such as the H&N Econ ll which are a great option for close in pest control. See my review: th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html
When you have found the right pellets for your RM8 it is worth then treating the pellets with pellet lube to get slightly better groups - very important if your are on pest control to give yourself the best chance of making clean humane kills every time. Have fun and enjoy your shooting.
All the best, Martin
Thanks for your videos. I fixed my leaking HW100 with yor instructions. Greetings from Finland. Jouko
Hi Jouko, Well done to you for servicing your gun yourself - it is a very satisfying thing to do do.
I am very glad that the videos helped. Stay well and enjoy your shooting. All the best, Martin
Great rebuild thank you
What a find your video's have been! You have saved me an awful lot of time because that is exactly how my rifle is behaving. Now I know what parts I need,where to get them from & how to fit them. You can't ask for much more than that. First class job, Thank you for your efforts.
Hi Andy, Thanks for your kind words. Glad that sharing the knowledge I gained will help others. I will try to get on with some serious chrono work over a full fill and will various pellet types. I have CB625 Chrono and interface to connect it to my mobile phone and record all the data - just need some time!
All the best, Martin
Great videos Martin all very informative, thank you very much for the time and effort you put in.
Hi and thanks. If you are stripping down an item then filming it can save your bacon when it comes to reassembly. This can be particularly important if you have to wait for spares and your memory has faded by the time that you start putting it back together.
All the best, Martin
Thanks for sharing the video. Very precise and informative. Appreciate all time and effort you took to help others around the world to better understanding. Thanks
Hi Khamis, You are very welcome. I am glad that you have found this series of videos useful. Happy shooting.
All the best, Martin
Excellent analysis tutorial,
You should make more vids, they are very informative and helpful.
You're an up and coming legend.
Hi, Thanks for your kind comments. I hope that these videos come in useful to you. I have posted some pellet and slug reviews plus CO2 pistols etc on another of my channels that may be of interest to you. The H&N Excite Econ II are a cheap but accurate pellet for paper punching or ratting - th-cam.com/video/669_SOr5UX0/w-d-xo.html
All the best, Martin
Thanks for this video series.
I've got that Ginb stock, too!
Thank you very much for the detailed video ! It helps me to understand the system, and i also changed the seals on my HW 100 Great Work! Greetings from Germany
Happy to have helped. Well done to you for servicing your gun. Thanks to German engineering for producing the fine HW100!
Regards, Martin
Thank you very much for this serie of videos .
I have really enjoyed them .
Wish you a lot of fun with your HW100 .
Have a nice day .
Arno Nijssen Hi Arno, thank you for your kind words - I am glad that you enjoyed the videos. Happy shooting!
Great video and very interesting what you you do at the end with opening up the regulator which I think is over looked when the power of the gun is a bit up and down. I'm surprised at the recoil but you don't mention what power the gun is running at. I've dropped my power down from 11.5 to 11.2 and the gun is smoother to shoot. Finally, I think that you can check the regulator by looking at the manometer needle on the cylinder when the gun is fired.
Hi, My HW100 is running at 11.6ftlb. You raise a good point about adjusting the power down - depending on your choice of pellets you may find that you shoot tighter groups at lower velocities.
The pressure gauge on the cylinder will only give you an idea about the pressure in the cylinder - you will always need to top up the cylinder before the cylinder pressure drops below the regulator pressure (around 90BAR). I would advise extreme caution when checking the pressure on the cylinders since you are effectively looking down the barrel! Never fire the gun while checking the gauge!! In part 3 of this series of videos I fit an external gauge on to the block to accurately read the regulator pressure.
Enjoy your shooting. All the best, Martin
@Martin Healy I think that at 34:16 the "problem" Sebastian had with his regulator should just be that his Pressure gauge is damped, so it just reacts slower.
Hi Vorna, Yes, I could see that Sebastian was using an oil damped gauge. I am no expert but I would doubt that the damping alone could account for the very slow rise in indicated regulator pressure. I would welcome the input of experts in this field.
All the best and happy shooting. Martin
@@Peter1x2y Hi and sorry for the slow response - TH-cam didn't flag your comment to me. I bought my gauge from .hw100tuning.co.uk very reasonably priced and a very helpful diagnostic tool. I also recommend their replacement test port seal kit - hw100tuning.co.uk/shop/ols/products/reg-pressure-test-port-seal/v/XN-PRS-TST-PRT-TST-PRT - this makes it so much easier to connect the guage to the HW100.
All the best, Martin
thank you sir. that is a fantastic tro of videos, I found them whilst looking for info on why my hw100 only shot once on full power, then a few lame shots before being dead as a dodo.. so following your demo I have ordered a seal kit and now intend doing a full service.. though the inlet valve will be done first and tried, then if fixed I will get a base reading with the gauge attached as mine is a .22
thanks in advance
Hi, Glad to hear the vids have been useful. Good luck with the servicing. Yes, in your case it makes good sense to service the inlet valve first and it can be removed without stripping the block. Please be safety conscious and depressurise the gun by removing the cylinder and firing it a few times to completely de-gas.
All the best.
Great st of videos Martin, one can learn so so much from these , Thank You for sharing your Knowledge and Experiences with every one, Cheers and great job,
Hi, Thank you for your kind comments. I enjoyed making the videos and of course they were a safety blanket for me in case I couldn't remember exactly how to reassemble. I would offer this as a top tip whenever you are stripping anything down - film it and have reference film to ensure that you can rebuild. I find that if I have to order spares and await their arrival after the strip down then things can get a bit hazy when I come to complete the job.
Regards, Martin
Thank you for an excellent video
I was able to service my beloved rifle and set her up doing eleven point eight fpe
With a maximum spread of seven FPS
Thank you again for this video
Well done - you must be chuffed. Achieving a spread of just 7 FPS is a real success. I would advise that you keep checking the muzzle energy as the regulator gets more use and settles in just to make sure that it doesn't creep up. Glad that the videos were of use. All the best, Martin.
Thanks for the warning about the reg it’s settled now it was set at eleven three originally and has risen to where it is now
I’m using jsb ten grain pellets and weighing them to achieve the FPS spread
And I used the higher shore graded ptfe white o rings in the places that are under air pressure
Iv had all kinds of super top end airguns costing over two and a half thousand
And I can honestly say that nothing can outclass a properly tuned and serviced
Hw one of the absolute best pcps out there
@@aboutthemetal8783es indeed - I thoroughly agree that the HW100 is a class act. I remember lots of scuttle about the length of time that HW took to develop the 100 but they certainly got it right. I can't see it disappearing from their catalogue any time soon.
I have spent a lot of time over the years weighing whole tins of JSB Exact pellets and creating 5 or so batches of specific weight pellets for serious shooting. I used to keep the dregs that fell into the very light or very heavy categories for leading the barrel after cleaning or just plinking. But I was never really convinced that the effort resulted in sufficiently improved groups to make it worthwhile - it used to take me an afternoon to carefully weight 500 pellets to 2 decimal places.
I do still use a precision sizer to prepare all my pellets. It does take a little bit of time but it does offer the opportunity to inspect each pellet as it comes out of the tin before forming a consistent skirt size. If I get bored on a wet day I may make a video on pellet preparation.
All the best, Martin
Martin Healy
I shoot hft every other week and I use the single shot loader and I am getting respectable scores and often out shooting guys with the top air arms hft specific rifles and the other brands
Iv currently got a one seven seven
And a two zero calibre rifles one full length sporter and the other a carbine sporter
Iv just purchased the bullpup stock kit from Blackpool air rifles and I’m awaiting its arrival
Can’t wait
Have you seen the new bullpup that weirauch are releasing
Very good gun
All the best 👍🏻
Yes, I have a single shot tray which I used in comp. I think it may marginally improve the groups. I used to meticulously prep 50 pellets ahead of a shoot - 10 for checking zero/wind on the day and 40 for the round. Really gentle operation of the cocking lever to probe the pellet home is another tip. This minimises the chance of damaging the skirt as the pellet is pushed into the breech. Ask at your club if anyone has an appropriate pellet sizer (they come in 0.01 mm increments) and make a batch for comparison with your regular prepped pellets. Hopefully you will find out whether a sizer would help without spending around £20 a pop to try each size.
Yes I saw the new bullpup online. The only thing I didn't like about it was the projected price :)
All the best, Martin
Excellent video. I've just started using my HW100 again after a year. Was competing in HFT competition with my TX200 then decided to get a service done on the HW100 by my Gunsmith as I found all the air had leaked out of it. All working well again. Not sure if I want to compete with it yet though! 😎
Hi, A couple of sessions on the zero range will hopefully restore your confidence in the HW100. I like to spend time checking the POI between 8-55 yards while also shooting over a chrono. This is a great test of the accuracy/consistency of the regulator.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealyBecause of the shot count on the carbine model can you shoot the gun while the gauge is registering just in the yellow? What problems could you have? 🤔
@@Happy-Me. The HW100 is a regulated gun. So from a full fill of 200BAR all the way down to the pressure that the regulator is set, say 90BAR, the muzzle velocity will essentially constant and vary by only around 5fps from shot to shot. Try shooting a full cylinder over a chrono and record the muzzle velocity of each shot. If you now plot these numbers ona graph you will see an essentially flat line followed by a cliff edge as the cylinder pressure falls below the set regulator pressure and each subsequent shot power drops lower than its preceding shot. Knowing how many consistent shots the gun can deliver per fill is crucial in both HFT and hunting scenarios.
In your case the carbine model will produce slightly fewer full power shots than the standard barrel length models since the reg pressure has to be set slightly higher to achieve the same muzzle energy.
The moral of this story is that time spent shooting over a chrono is time well spent and it will help you to really understand your gun's performance.
All the best, Martin
Great help thanks
Excellent videos. Well done Martin.
I have a new HW100 KT. If I choose to modify it in the future I'm sure these videos will be very useful.
Good choice of gun! Hopefully you will get at least 5 years faithful service from the HW100 before any service work is required. Thanks for your kind comments. All the best, Martin
hopefully ill be brave enough to try this. excellent video, thanks Martin.
Hi Ed, I had no choice - the importer wasn't being helpful about servicing and the cost was too high. Just enjoy you gun until it develops issues then watch all the videos through and again during the service. You will gain real satisfaction by completing the work yourself.
All the best, Martin
Thanks Martin for the very informative videos. My son and I have a number of air weapons, with the HW100 being our favourite. Over the summer it has gradually lost power, reducing from 11.1ftlb to 9.3- 9.9ft lb. Watching your helpful videos, I have decided to service it myself using Hw100 tunings o ring service kit. Hopefully an o ring change and maybe a tweak on the regulator will get it back to how it was shooting. We look forward to hopefully seeing your trigger service video in the future. ps. the gauge won't be that accurate for £20. We use similar, but calibrated gauges at work and they cost over £100. Regards Mark.
Hi Mark, Good luck with your rebuild. I would highly recommend investing in the regulator pressure test gauge from HW100tuning.com. The gauge will help you to understand what is happening in the reg before you start the strip down and it is essential for setting up the reg pressure after the rebuild. Take care and stay safe.
All the best, Martin
Hi Mark,
I take your point about the calibration accuracy of the gauges and I had the same thought when I was purchasing. I queried the supplier and the answer was I think within 5%. So yes not super accurate but adequate and certainly better than attempting the setup blind. Maybe you could get an adaptor and borrow a works gauge or at least use your works gear to produce a calibration correction table for the cheap gauge?
All the best, Martin
Had me glued to the screen. Thoroughly enjoyed these 3 videos. Need number 4 now, so we can see your accuracy testing.
Its an interesting point that the A&M Cylinders do not have a valve. I got mine from Phil at Ratworks. They are cheaper than the A&M's and they have a valve. However i have to change the O ring every time that i remove the Cylinder because it gets mushed.
Thanks for your kind comments. I haven't seen the Ratworks cylinder but I have to say that A&M give great after sales service on their cylinder. Try running your cylinder as low as possible before removing it. I found with the A&M cylinder that the Main Inlet Valve Oring 2665 survived if the cylinder pressure was down to around 100BAR. Best buy a bulk pack of the uprated Oring from HW100Tuning.
Yes, I will try to get on with the chrono work. So far I have purchased a CB625 chrono and satisfied myself that the gun is legal and consistent. Interestingly the power did rise about 0.2 ftlb after 20 or so shots. I also got a USB serial interface to connect the CB 625 to my mobile phone. This works great and will be really handy for recording shot strings over a full fill and comparing various pellets. Having the data recorded on the phone for future reference will be so much easier than recording each shot manually and keying it into Excel as I have had to do in the past with other chronos.
All the best, Martin
hi martin.good to see you getting your head around the regulator block servicing .. I have located a 250 bar oild damped gauge but the fitting is way too big to locate in the small threaded ball bearing location .. have you machined up the gauge fitting .
Hi Richard,
I purchased my pressure guage from hw100tuning.co.uk and so it came with the correct thread size. These gauges are cheap and cheerful and are not oil damped. I did ask them at the time what the calibration accuracy was for these gauges but I am afraid I can't locate the response but it may have been +/- 2%. Anyway I was reassured that it was accurate enough for my purposes. I'm not sure where you are located but this company will ship overseas.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin thank you for your swift reply .. I have a Myford super 7 lathe and intend to adapt a screw to do the job .. I live /retired to Alvito In Portugal a lovely Portuguese village .. very friendly and affordable lifestyle. At 75 years young I am still tinkering . My gauge is a 250 bar version . €27 euros including 23% IVA. (purchase tax ) quite a posh looking bit of kit . I would love to attach some photos but am not very clever on the computer at 75 years young .EX 1980 Donnington GT champion .
@@richardwallinger1683 Hi Richard, Glad to hear that you are keeping yourself busy. I am retired too and living happily in Devon. I can honestly say I am never bored and I wonder how I ever managed to fit work in! You sound to be very mechanically competent so I bet you will succeed in adapting your gauge. One thing that my supplier stressed was not using the body of the gauge to tighten it into the regulator block but to use a spanner on the adaptor flats. It came with the sealing washer - bonded seals or Dowty washers they are called but it is essentially a steel washer that has a rubber seal built into it.
Feel free to drop me a line if you hit any snags and think I may be able to help.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Dowty washers .. I used to motor race and used those on the oil cooler connections .Likewise I am at a loss as to where I ever found the time for engine rebuilds frame fabrication fiberglass molds AN go to work 11 hours away from my workshop.
hi and thanks for the videos Martin, I have a HW100 .177 FAC 22ft/lb what should be the pressure of the regulator?
Hi Angelo, I have never worked on an FAC gun. However, setting the regulator pressure follows the same tuning rules as sub-12ftlb guns. The ideal tune occurs when the hammer and the regulator pressure are perfectly balanced.
If we ignore the hammer spring setting and concentrate on the regulator pressure then:
- If the regulator pressure is set lower than the optimum for the hammer force then the muzzle energy will be lower than the maximum achievable.
- If the regulator pressure is set too high then the hammer will be unable to fully open the valve and the muzzle energy does not increase, can be erratic, and can actually decrease.
After servicing your regulator I would suggest that you apply a 'scientific' approach to tuning the regulator. You will need an accurate chronograph, a carefully selected batch of the gun's preferred pellets and a pellet trap set against a safe background. Setup the gun in a gun rest and take great care to ensure that each time you fire the gun the pellet can be safely collected. Increase the regulator pressure several BAR at a time and for each shot note down the muzzle velocity/energy. Keep winding up the regulator and shooting until you see that the muzzle energy has not increased since the last shot. This will give you the rough regulator pressure needed. Then repeat this process starting say 5 BAR below the pressure obtained in the previous step. This time increase the regulator pressure very gradually say 1BAR at a time to find the point at which the muzzle energy does not increase. You will then have found the optimum regulator pressure for the current hammer setting and this will yield the maximum velocity and the most efficient use of air and maximum shot count.
Then carry out range testing to determine if this tune actually yields good groups. If the tune does not give acceptable groups then you may then need to consider a different tune using a hammer adjustment and redo the regulator to suit the new hammer force.
Hope this helps. ( My top of the head guess will be a geg pressure of around 115BAR.)
Hi Martino, I wanted to ask you at what pressure I should adjust my hw100 177 fac 22ft/lb, thanks and greetings from Italy
Thanks for the videos. Very helpful, indeed.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video's Martin all the best.
Hi Scott, Thanks. Happy to share.
All the best, Martin
Thank you for the series videos.
I I have a HW100KT .177, what should be the pressure of the regulator?
Opinions vary but around 90BAR is a good starting point. In practice the lower the reg pressure the higher the shot count per fill. The muzzle velocity will be influenced by the reg pressure and the hammer force.
Excellent video enjoyed it a very informative video it's one of the best on youtube thank you
Hi, You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it and I hope it comes in useful. Enjoy your shooting.
All the best, Martin
Very good video,well explained.Thank you for your efforts.
Hi, Thanks glad to help and share what I learned along the way on this project. I still haven't done the serious chrono work but have the gear to do it. Just need a few clear days...
Great job Martin you've helped me out a lot, could i just point out the importance of wearing safey glasses when working with pressurised systems seen too many people lose eyes, thanks again
Hi, Glad that you found the videos useful. You raise an important point about wearing safety glasses. I totally agree. Although I did urge everyone to be cautious and not work on the gun while pressurised I should have also urged people to wear safety glasses. I will now add this advice in the video description.
By the way, I do practice what I preach and I always insist that my grandchildren wear safety glasses whenever we are shooting even if the chances of a ricochet are very low.
All the best, Martin
Hi Great video, thanks for the information. One small criticism , I would suggest the text be written in white ( not red ) and put at the top of the screen, not at the bottom. Reason being you can’t see it very well to the right of the screen. Also where do I get the test gauge from?
Hi Micky, This is Part 3 of a series of videos. If you click on the picture icons at the very end of the video it will take you to Parts 1 & 2. The test gauge and all the seals came from www.hw100tuning.co.uk/ - they are a great company to deal with. They offer an increasing range of quality tuning parts for the HW100 and they will ship overseas.
All the best, Martin
Done a major service on my hw100 purely using this video, I have only ever fired the gun now stripped it down and rebuilt it very happy, only question is gun oil gets a mention but I never seen it actually get used, where would you use the gun oil
Hi Gary, Well done to you for completing the HW100 service yourself. Gun oil must be used with great caution on airguns because the oil can deteriorate the Oring seals. Never apply oil directly and only apply via a cloth. When servicing the regulator block place a drop of gun oil on to a piece of clean lint-free cloth then rub over the Belleville Washers between thumb and finger so that all surfaces receive a very fine film of oil - not wet just enough to make the surface shine. This will allow the washers to slide over each freely as they are compressed. Apply oil via a pin to the trigger module components.
Keep a small piece of lint-free cloth (say 100 x 100mm) that has had several drops of gun oil applied in a zip-lock bag in your gun bag. When you finish a shooting session wipe over the metal surfaces before putting the gun away. This routine will help to prevent any surface rust or corrosion and keep your HW100 in great condition for the years to come.
All the best, Martin
Hi Martin how you doing i have rejoined the gun club its changed a bit .
Hi, Not sure who I am talking to because I just see frogmarched6869. I haven't rejoined the club again this year so far because I haven't been shooting much other than pest control. I hope that the changes at the club are positive. The last times I went I was very impressed with the changes and it appeared that the club was going from strength to strength.
I would still enjoy some range time but it takes me 50-60 mins to get to the club. I know it sounds a bit odd but I always preferred weekdays because it is quiet and I can do more concentrated zeroing and ballistics. I still have my beloved HW100 and doubt that I will ever part with it. During the COVID lockdowns I bought a load of CO2 pistols and enjoy 10M plinking with my grandkids.
All the best.
@@Incognito1-1 its Martin ,Martin , we used to go up there together when Andy was there , i have rejoined to use it in the weekday afternoons for some fun and setting up the rifles , they have a small group on a wednesday of mainly retired people .
Great Vids Martin, thanks for your time and effort to help others! After the reg pressure tinker what was your shot count findings and have you noticed any change in accuracy when changing the power of the rifle, either by spring adjustment or reg pressure changes? I have recently acquired a chrono which I am loving. I have found that power increases by about 0.5 ft/lb when suppressor is attached and the most powerful shot I have recorded is from a JSB exact at 10.66ft/lb but my usual power using my preferred H&N FTT is just below 10ft/lb so my rifle is well under power and was wondering if I can increase the power some how then maybe I can tighten those groups. Pellets tested have ranged from the light JSB RS and H&N Terminators to the heavier Bisley Mags which my HW100 T loves. I have found that my rifle doesnt seem to like any of the JSB stuff but I think the thin skirts and soft lead they use may be the cause of the poor consistency of accuracy. My tests show pretty much any H&N pellet is more accurate due to thicker skirts and better QC.
Hi Rob, My shot count definitely increased after I set the regulator pressure slightly lower. I would always advise people to set the regulator pressure as low as practical to achieve the desired muzzle energy. Although there is no right or wrong muzzle energy I think that most shooters would prefer to be up around 11.5 ftlb in order to get a flatter trajectory. It is worth experimenting to see if your rifle groups better at different muzzle energies although this generally is more important in FAC guns where barrel harmonics become more significant.
Using your chrono you should see that a string of pellets has a very small velocity spread of say 5fps.
In my experience, if the regulator is functioning well and you are using a high quality consistent pellet such as the JSB Exact 8.44, then the most important factor for achieving tight groups is barrel cleanliness. With my HW100 I know when the barrel needs cleaning because I note the groups opening up. My method is to use a pull through to draw several wet patches then dry patches through until they emerge completely clean. I use Bisley 0.22 patches in my 0.177 because the patches are a tighter fit and scrub the bore better. At this point the gun will shoot worse than before the clean! Then shoot around 25 pellets by which time the groups should be as tight as it is going to get in the conditions.
If you are still getting ragged groups:
- you might want to buy a regulator pressure gauge so that you can get an idea of what the regulator pressure is set to and the consistency of the refill after every shot.
- try to swap pellets with friends so that you can find the pellet that your particular rifle likes best - for example try to shoot JSB Exact 8.44 in head sizes 4.51, 4.52 and 4.53. After extensive testing for FT usage I concluded that the 4.53 was marginally more accurate than the 4.52 in my particular barrel.
- I also advocate lubing pellets to increase consistency.
- use a single shot loader to shoot groups to compare against groups shot from the magazine. If there is a difference change the mag Oring and see if that improves things.
- shoot groups with the silencer and without to check for any possible clipping as the pellet flies through the silencer baffles. You may need to strip the silencer and clean the baffles.
- always operate the cocking lever gently so that the pellet is eased into the breech and doesn't get damaged.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hi Martin, Thanks for the brilliant reply. I have completed all the suggestions you did and carried out the full regulator service you carried out. The most critical part is indeed the main internal O-ring in the base of the larger part of the regulator and I now have instant pressurisation after shots like you have. Before it took about 1.5 seconds. I adjusted the reg pressure to 92bar and now have a highest reading after the overhaul of 11.6 fpe with JSB Exacts 4.50mm (Actual measurement 4.58/9). These however shoot like a shot gun with best accuracy coming from H&N Baracuda type pellets which measure 4.53mm despite the tin saying 4.52mm. I measure them with a Pelletgage from Intershoot, a bit pricey but a valuble tool for getting exact data, sometimes the tin info regarding calibre is a bit wrong. I had one tin of JSB measuring 4.49mm and on tin stated 4.53. Ever since I avoided 4.53 like the plague even though pellets that actually measure this work best in my barrel. Anyway you live and learn. When you find a consistently sized tin of pellets get what you can of the same batch. Anyways the main point is undersized pellets for your barrel can give the biggest power readings on the chrono but unfortunately they are useless for accuracy. My favourite tight fitting ones run slower and give 11fpe with a spread of 10ft/s typically, god knows how you get a typical spread of 5ft/s? I will see if there is any improvement after a barrel clean but its shooting sweet at the moment. Next test is to index the barrel! Oh and by the way make sure you have a new breech seal O-ring when you take the cover off the breech block it can only be used once, wasted about half a day trying to find the leek as I had only replaced this one the day before! Dohhh.
@@robbo2976 Hi Rob, Apologies for the slow response - I have been knee deep in grandchildren for the past couple of weeks.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with your HW100. I am really interested in your pellet sizing measurements. I have never invested in a pellet gauge so please keep me posted as you learn any more. Many moons ago the classic BIC biro tube was used as a 0.177 pellet gauge - better than nothing but of course it wasn't a head size gauge.
I was really surprised that you haven't found any JSB Exact to work in your barrel yet. Have you pulled through some fairly tight patches yet? The essential starting point is a clean barrel that gets leaded up by the pellet under test.
I do use a 4.53 pellet sizer and I can feel the difference in sizes as I push pellets through the sizer. Using the sizer does yield pellets with more consistent skirt sizing and perfectly round skirts. This is potentially a problem to be aware of when using a go-no go guage. The hole in the gauge marked 4.52 will be a friction fit for pellets that are not truly round but have high spots on the oval that measure 4.52. However, I can be sure that taking an interest in the pellets rather than blindly taking them straight from the tin has to be a step in the right direction.
One thing to watch when measuring, sizing, washing, lubing etc is to be very gentle in handling the pellets. As you say the lead used in quality pellets is soft and the skirts can easily be damaged.
I would encourage you to experiment with lubing pellets and carefully measuring group sizes to compare between straight from the tin, lubed, sized etc to find out what works best in your gun and where it is worth putting in the extra effort to gain fractional advantages in consistency. If you do nothing else then at least visually inspect pellets before loading and save any dented skirts and use them for barrel conditioning after cleaning.
Please let me know how you get on with the barrel indexing.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Hey Martin,
I only pellet size because I read somewhere it was probably the most influential dimension of the pellet. I was confused as to why the well recommended RWS Super Fields were inconsistent in my rifle. On measuring the head sizes from a single tin I got measurements ranging from 4.46-52, answering the question as to why they looked great but shot poorly. I haven't shot the sorted pellets yet as since then I've found almost all the H&N brand ones work well in my barrel, and I suspect everyone else's if they are using the correct size that fits their barrel due to the consistency from the tin. I cant be bothered weighing and sizing every pellet I fire. I have also noticed that the somewhat rough kind of octagonal shape to the skirts of the H&N pellets are rarely dinted due to the thickness of them. I tried some chrono work today and found that the pellets shot from the tin shot about 0.4 ft/lb less than the same pellets that had a fresh light coating of GT85. The average spread however increased slightly but that may be down to the low numbers tested but I reckon the smaller ones increased velocity was amplified by the slick coat. I think you must sort your pellets to some degree to get your 5ft/sec spread. I rarely get that from a full magazine but I only sort by chucking a very dinted skirt that I very rarely come across, Also the odd high reading I get does not get discounted which I know some people do.
I think that if RWS sorted there head size inconsistency problem out they would have great pellets because everything else about them looks spot on, nice shape, round smooth head and round flat skirts, they certainly look prettier than H&N and JSB pellets.
The barrel indexing worked well and proved that my particular one from the factory wasn't indexed. My serial number is now near the underside of the barrel rather than the side as the slight bend is now pointing up to the 12 o'clock position. My shots at different ranges now perform as expected and change in the vertical plane were as before changes in range also resulted in horizontal changes too. Its a bit of a faff but not too difficult to do, just make sure you tape up the barrel with markings rather than the suppressor which can spin slightly with all the barrel removals.
I clean my barrel with a tight fitting cloth soaked in WD40 on a 60lb fishing line pull through then dry cloths. Since I polished the barrel it fouls less and needs less frequent lighter cleans. All barrels in my opinion MUST need this doing occasionally, those that don't mustn't shoot to the same standards as we that do, do.
I'm going to collect more chrono data first so I have some reliable accurate data to compare future changes to the gun with. I have recently bought the brass spring guide cap for the adjuster and HW100 Tunings spring sets and have also bought the FAST FLOW EXHAUST VALVE STEM & SPRING. What the latter does I'm not sure as I have no intention to go FAC but it recommend it for tinkerers. I'm in no rush to fit these I've only just finished an overhaul and I know they can be tricky to put back together again!
Happy shooting.
Hi Martin
I recently followed your video and replaced all the o rings except the one inside the inlet valve
Next to the ball and spring
When I look inside I see a black ring but it looks almost flat and I’m not sure it’s an o ring because some where actually missing when I was servicing the regulator
Did yours just fall out or did it take a bit of convincing to remove it? I don’t want to risk damaging the brass just to remove it
Many thanks
Hi, Well done for servicing the regulator block yourself. Yes, I would strongly recommend that you change the internal O-ring inside the Main Inlet valve. It was that particular O-ring that turned out to be the root cause of the regulator problems that forced me to service my HW100. The original O-ring may be gummed in to the brass tube of the inlet valve. Try using a sharp wooden toothpick to prise it out. If all all possible avoid using steel pins etc because even a tiny scratch in the brass could affect the seal. Clean the inside of the Main Inlet valve thoroughly before fitting the new O-ring. I would recommend using the uprated red O-ring for longer life.
Don't forget to check the muzzle speed/energy using a chronograph after completing the work on the gun. This chrono data will provide useful insight in to how consistently the regulator is working. It is worth keeping a record of the shot strings for future reference. You may find that the muzzle energy creeps up a little after a few hundred shots so remember to test over the chrono regularly.
You mentioned missing O-rings in the block. Don't worry about that as there have been a few revisions and a couple of O-rings were deliberately omitted during manufacture of later guns.
All the best, Martin
could you let me know what is the measurement of the thread to place the manometer on the block to measure the pressure? 1/4 or 1/2
Obrigado, Brazil
Hi Luis, The HW100 is all metric. The regulator pressure gauge has a 6mm thread. The gauge I purchased from www.hw100tuning.co.uk was cheap but it came with the right thread and seals and did the job OK. The threaded neck has a bonded washer (Dowty washer), a plain washer, and another bonded washer leaving 4mm of exposed thread to screw into the block. I photographed my gauge but I now realise that I can't add a photo on TH-cam - if you need a photo then PM me with an email address and I will gladly send to you. If you run into difficulties getting an adaptor made then I know that www.hw100tuning.co.uk do ship overseas.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy I would like to thank you for being so kind to help me. I went to the store's website and made the purchase of Kit 3 AT, Hammer Spring, Full Seal/Service Kit, 5 Upgraded Cylinder Seals, Reg Pressure Test Gauge & Test Port Seal, Fast Flow Exhaust Valve & Spring, Regulator Belleville Washers & Upgraded Spring Guid.......thank you, from your Brazilian subscriber
@@luisdelondrina4578 Hi Luis, You are really going all the way with your HW100 renovation. You have ordered a lot of good kit so your gun should soon be better than the day it rolled out of the Weihrauch factory.
In case you haven't already seen it I would highly recommend another TH-camr 'Sub 12 Airgunners' - see his 1st HW100 video - th-cam.com/video/mwP4mLkJIqM/w-d-xo.html and there is a second HW100 video from him - excellent.
You may also be interested in another of my channels - th-cam.com/video/SlcN_GBEGSg/w-d-xo.html
All the best.
@@MartinHealy Thank you for the informations.
In your opinion, what better lead to use on the HW100 5.5mm? I'm using 18.13gr or 1.175g JSB and also 15.89gr or 1.030g JSB. However, I still haven't found an ideal setting for these leads.
Could you give me some ideas?
Hugs and your friend Luis (Brazilian)
@@luisdelondrina4578 Hi Luis, Finding the best pellet for any particular gun can be a frustrating experience. All I can do is offer a few thoughts on how to approach this task. Pellet choice will depend on:
- what you are shooting at, for example, are you target shooting FT, HFT, Benchrest or hunting small game (or blowing up oil barrels!)? For targets I use JSB Exact but for small game closer than 40 yards the JSB Hades is a very good choice - accurate and hard hitting.
calibre
- I also highly recommend using pellet lube Pellet Perfect LT1 or Power Pel.
- when you find a pellet that suits your barrel then experiment with the different head sizes available for many of the JSB pellets. Start with 5.52 mm but then repeatedly shoot 20-shot groups with the same pellet type but in 5.51 and 5.53. Get others in your club involved so that you can share tins of pellets. When testing pellets clean the barrel by pulling through patches, or at least shoot a few felt cleaning pellets, then shoot 20 of the new pellets to condition the barrel then a very careful 20 shot group to test the consistency - measure the group size centre to centre. Clean and repeat with the next pellet. This process is a little tedious but it is the best way to find the best pellet. If you just flip from pellet to pellet shooting 5 shots you will be kidding yourself. If you are pleased with a particular tin of pellets then head straight back to the store with the tin and buy 10x tins from the same batch number (label on the back).
- if you want to take it to the next level then wash the tin of best pellets. Then weigh them to 2 decimal places and sort into 5 or 6 piles. Roll the pellets down a slightly sloping sheet of glass to assess roundness and head/skirt relationship by the amount the pellet curves away from its start point. Use the very light, very heavy and off-round pellets for conditioning the barrel after cleaning or for plinking. Keep the piles of premium pellets for competitions.
Above all have fun. All the best, Martin
I don’t have a gauge, I’m trying to get the ref to 90 bar, how deep should the screw be?
Hi Sean,
I can't really help because it isn't possible to say have many turns since this will dependent on the stiffness and thickness of you washer stack. Your best bet is to buy a guage - they only cost about £16 from www.hw100tuning.co.uk
This gauge will be a worthwhile investment and diagnostic tool.
All the best, Martin
Hi Martin,
HW100 KT sub 12ft/lb .177.
My above almost 3yr. old PCP has dropped power from the original 11.3 ft/lb to 8 ft/lb. it has also doubled the shot count from 56 to 112. Cylinder pressure does not get any lower even over days of gun not being shot.
Can you please advise me what is possibly causing the above issues?
I was super happy with accuracy and consistency and it had never before given me any problem.
Your kind attention and advise will be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
John.
Hi John, The symptoms you describe are consistent with the regulator pressure being lower than 'normal' (for your 100KT I would expect the regulator pressure to be set to around 90 to 95 BAR).
It is possible that the hammer is not striking the firing valve with enough force to fully open it. This can be caused by the hammer becoming sticky (less likely) but it is possible that the regulator pressure has risen significantly above 90 BAR. In which case the regulated air pressure behind the firing valve prevents the hammer fully opening the valve.
The best course of action to start to understand the issues affecting your 100KT is to purchase a regulator pressure gauge as you see me use in these videos. The company that I purchased my gauge from www.hw100tuning.co.uk are very reasonably priced and they will ship within the UK and to many overseas countries. Just attaching the regulator pressure gauge is simple and it will give you good diagnostic data. (Remember to remove the air cyclinder and to dry fire the gun several times to release the regulated pressure air before removing the reg test port).
If you do decide to place an order with www.hw100tuning.co.uk then I would suggest that you also purchase a major service kit of all the seals. If you are confident to undertake servicing work on your gun then I would suggest that you first try a quick fix of servicing the brass inlet valve - this can be unscrewed without disassembling the regulator block. You will see me separate the brass inlet valve into its 2 halves and replace the Oring in this video. If this doesn't solve the issue then a full strip down and service of the regulator block will be required. See Parts 1-3 of this series for the full process.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy
Hi Martin,
Thank you very much for your kind and detailed advice, I appreciate the time you dedicated to help me out.
As you suggested I have ordered and just received from HW100 Tuning, two sets of the major service seal kit and their regulator pressure gauge. I will first start by checking the Regulator pressure. Do I have to remove the BB ball and O-ring from the reg. test port before attaching the regulator pressure gauge ?
PS : I have seen a number of times and forwarded to my gunsmith your relative three part set of videos, excellent work and presentation Martin.
All my best regards,
John.
@@johnbonnici8048 Hi John, Yes, you need to remove the reg test port grub screw and the ball bearing and Oring before attaching the the pressure gauge. Please do make sure that the gun is depressurised and dry fired to empty the regulated air from the plenum. I forgot to mention that I recommend the HW100tuning mod that replaces the original grub screw, ball bearing and Oring.
Good luck with your testing.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy Thanks Martin, you've been a great help.
All the best,
John.
Thank you very much for the informative video. In your opinion can you successfully modify a HW100 from 5.5 to a 4.5mm caliber?
Your welcome. Yes it is possible to change the calibre but I would question whether it really is a financially viable option. You would need to purchase a new barrel, magazine and pellet probe and make a sleeve to align the smaller pellet probe. I remember seeing a video on TH-cam in which someone converts a HW100. I personally would not recommend it.
I wonder if you could advertise on a forum and find someone who has a 4.5 cal and would like to swap. 5.5 cal is popular among the hunting community. My personal preference with sub 12 ftlb guns is 4.5mm simply because of the flatter trajectory. Pellet placement is the most important consideration rather than calibre. Have you tried experimenting with some light weight 5.5 cal pellets to see if you can improve pellet speed and trajectory?
All the best, Martin
Hi Martin, yes I tried lighter pellets, but even then I could not get a good grouping until I increased the spring tension. That did give me a good grouping, but over the legal limit in my country. So yes I agree, 4.5mm give a flatter trajectory which is what I would like. Thanks for your advice.
Getting consistency and tight groups is essential. When I experiment with new pellets and find a pellet that looks promising I try to obtain tins with different skirt sizes e.g. 5.50, 5.51, 5.52, 5.53. Then I clean the barrel carefully and shoot 50 of the new pellets. Repeat the clean and shoot the next batch. This is time consuming but it will identify the pellet size that best fits your particular barrel.
When you have settled on the best pellet for your gun and are used to its performance then if group size starts to increase it is usually a good indicator that the barrel needs cleaning.
Other tips to ensure ultimate accuracy I would offer are:
- Select and grade the pellets from the tin. Reject any pellets with dented / distorted skirts.
- Wash and lube the pellets.
- Put the pellets through a sizer to produce a batch with a consistent skirt diameter.
- Carefully weigh the pellets into groups of the same weight.
If I get some time I may make a video showing some of the procedures for selection and preparation of pellets.
All the best, Martin
Yes absolutely agree with you, but there is a minimum and a maximum speed of any given pellet, and I believe "flyers" will occur also when under the minimum speed, at least with the HW100 5.5 @ 24j I have tried. The lightest JSB 5.5 would not group until the reaching minimum speed of aprox. 780 fps. and to achieve that it took over 24j.
Hi Martin, I have successfully change my HW100 from 5.5 to 4.5mm. I did this myself after watching several videos including yours. I only had to change Barrel 2678, Breech Block 2651K, Loading Bolt 2616, O-rings 2658 & 2618. O-rings on the breech block and barrel come included when you buy them new. I had to make no modifications, just swaped the parts and works like a charm. The new 4.5mm magazine works perfectly as well. I did bring the regulator down to 90 bar.
hi Martin, I need help, I'm going crazy with my HW100, I can't get it to go higher than 12ft/lb, I've tried to adjust it with various regulator pressures but nothing, I've tried 100 bar to 110 to 120 and also at 130 but the power does not increase, I also changed the hammer and the spring and also the firing valve with those of the FAC version but the result has not changed. what can I do to solve the problem?😪
Hi Angelo, Even if it is legal to do so where you live I do not recommend trying to increase the muzzle energy of a sub-12 HW100. The HW100 is a beautifully designed air rifle that has stood the test of time and is enjoyed the world over.
There are several sections of the design of the HW100 that effectively limit the muzzle energy:
1. The plenum (the chamber in the regulator block in which the firing valve sits) is the reservoir of air at the regulated pressure that is availlable to drive the pellet down the barrel. The size of the plenum cannot be increased so the firing valve would need to be held open long enough, by a heavier hammer, for additional air to flow from the cylinder through the regulator. This would also largely defeat the purpose of the regulator and cause shot to shot inconsistency.
2. As I explained in this series of videos the transfer port is drilled through the block and plugged with a grub screw. In many other air rifle designs the transfer port is a removable drilled brass nipple that is sealed at each end by an o-ring. The brass transfer ports can be replaced by one with a larger diameter hole that allows a greater volume of air to flow through the port to the back of the pellet in the very brief time that the firing valve remains open. The downside of the brass transfer port designs is that the o-rings are yet another point of failure. Weihrauch choose to eliminate this point of failure and I appreciate the simplicity of the HW100 design.
3. If your rifle is a carbine version then the shorter barrel will further hamper your attempt to increase muzzle velocity.
Btw the regulator piston and the bellville washer stack are also different on the FAC version.
My advice, for what it is worth, is to appreciate the sub-12 HW100 for what it is and just enjoy shooting this classic rifle.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy ok Martin thank you very much and thank you for answering me
@@MartinHealy but if I change the piston of the pressure regulator, the hammer and the spring with those of the FAC version, do you think I can reach a power of 24 joules?
@@MartinHealy but if I change the piston of the pressure regulator, the hammer and the spring with those of the FAC version, do you think I can reach a power of 24 joules?
@@angeloangelo6405 Hi Angelo, The short answer is 'no'. I haven't carried out the modifications that you are proposing so I can only offer an opinion based on my experience of the HW100 and other airguns. I think that the transfer port issue will limit the max power that your gun can generate. I base this on experience from other guns that feature removable transfer ports and these ports feature larger bores in the FAC/HP versions. To illustrate this point imagine taking a 200mm length of garden hose and a drinking straw. Try blowing as hard as possible down each of these pipes.
One other thought occurred to me after your earlier messages. You mentioned that the muzzle energy did not increase despite some large increases in the regulator pressure and I would certainly have expected at least mild increases. I am assuming that you have changed the breech seal o-ring as I illustrated in this series of videos. If the seal is worn then air can escape backwards past the pellet probe when the gun is fired rather than being available to propel the pellet down the barrel.
Rather than trying to make your sub-12 HW100 into something it was not intended to be why not sell and buy a replacement FAC model. Stay safe and stay legal.
All the best, Martin
Excellent Video's Martin. Will be very helpful should I need to attempt this myself. Also very nice Stock, could you tell me who made yours. Many Thanks
Keith Lowther Hi Keith, Thanks for your feedback. The stock was made by Ginb. I bought it second hand but I believe that they were made to order by a supplier in I think Indonesia. I was told a couple of years ago that they were no longer available. All the best, Martin.
Hi Martin, Please could you tell me what the regulator gauge needs to be set at for a .22cal ?.
Hi John, I haven't set-up a .22 cal so can only say that opinions seem to vary on the 'correct' reg pressure. I believe that some people feel that around 95 BAR is right. I would suggest researching on www.tapatalk.com/groups/weihrauchowners/
My personal advice would be to remember that muzzle energy is controlled by both the reg air pressure and the hammer spring adjustment. The lower that you set the reg pressure for a given muzzle energy the higher will be your shot count per fill. If you are not intending to vary the hammer spring pressure then I would suggest setting the reg at just over 90 BAR and then test the ME. Increase the reg a couple of BAR test and repeat until desired ME is achieved. During the testing shoot some large groups to see if there is a clear improvement in accuracy and any particular reg pressure before adjusting and repeating the test
All the best, Martin
Many thanks for your reply. I will give it a go.
Whish you could sort mine out for me it's driving me mad 😢
I don't get it. I got air leak. changed the oring (14x1,5) under brass valve. Also changed 2 small orings - 1 inside brass valve, other one outside (i got that red ones from HWtuning). After that regulator didnt fill up. When I changed small oring inside brass valve fron that red PUR to normal black NBR it started to work. Is it normal that after a shoot i hear very quick 'psst' when regulator fills - it's just split second
Hi and sorry to hear that you are having problems with your HW100. I have emailed HW100Tuning to seek their advice on the seals. They have seen cases where the two halves of the Inlet Valve are over tightened during re-assembly and this can distort the seal. That could be the cause of the regulator not refilling.
Please email Mel at hw100.tuning@gmail.com he is keen to help resolve your problem.
The other issue that you mention the 'psst' noise - was this happening before you serviced the Inlet Valve?
You mentioned that you had a leak. Has the leak stopped since you serviced the Inlet Valve?
All the best, Martin
@@Incognito1-1 I've send email. Mel responded instantly. Propably I've overtightened the brass valve. He gave me some advices, so I must say, HW100tuning shop knows how to threat customers. 100% recommend. Thats 'psst' is propably from overthightening the valve. For now Ive mounted 2 NBR orings, even thought I thightened the brass valve it started to work fine. Now Im testing, if there is still a air leak
@@swinka Great news. Glad that HW100Tuning helped you - I have always been impressed by their service. If you do decide to take the Inlet Valve out again then I would suggest that when reassembling the valve that you hold the 10mm and the 8mm spanners in just your thumb and forefinger of each hand. By gripping the spanners lightly in this way it is less likely that you will over-tighten the two brass halves of the valve. Remember - tight but not gorilla tight!
Happy shooting. All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy hmm, maybe I should reassembly that again? As for now it's thigthened pretty well...but it works, so maybe there is no point of tauching it. On the other ahnd I see you also thightened it well. Tomorrow I'll check if the leak is still there
I was led to believe that when the cylinder is totally empty to set up the block you had to cock the gun for the first nfill
Hi George, When the cylinder is completely empty there is only the spring pressure behind the firing valve forcing it in to valve seat and it doesn't make a solid seal. If air is just trickled into the cylinder it can leak past the firing valve. When air is rapidly introduced to the cylinder the pressure behind the firing valve rises rapidly and the valve is forced firmly into the valve seat making a seal. However, this is the only time that I would recommend filling rapidly and only until there is say 50BAR in the cylinder.
All the best, Martin
Good Effort. Very nice videos Thanks
Hi Tony, Thanks for your comments. I was happy to make the videos to share the knowledge I gained from this little project.
All the best, Martin
I’m puzzled why the inlet valve wasn’t functioning properly and for sure Sebastian Hibbert’s slow fill would have been due to the same cause.
Thinking it through, I can only come up with one explanation which is the internal seal gets gradually distended with age by the ball bearing constantly pushing against it so that eventually, the ball ends up butting up against the outlet port of the brass valve and essentially the “equator” of the ball pushes past the o-ring so that the seal is now formed by pressure pushing the O-ring against the ball rather than the ball pushing against the O-ring. In this case, the piston rod will push the ball up into the inlet valve but the O-ring on the far side still forms a seal and no air is released from the cylinder. If so and I can think of no other explanation, the o-ring needs more regular replacement or needs to be made from a tougher material with a higher modulus so that it doesn’t lose its shape so easily???
Hi, Yes I too was surprised that the inlet valve wasn't opening. You are certainly right that the oring was the cause. There was very little debris inside the valve. The ball wasn't jammed into the oring and it rolled out when I separated the the two halves of the brass valve casing.
The original oring was a regular nitrile oring probably PUR70. The replacement oring supplied in the seal kit from HW100tuning.co.uk is a much more durable polyurethane oring.
Weihrauch built a great gun but HW100 Tuning have made a many mods available to further improve the HW100.
Thanks for your interest.
All the best, Martin
Hi, I just looked again at the video and realised that my earlier reply did not take account of me operating the ball valve using a 1.5 allen key before I separated the 2 halves of the brass inlet valve. So the ball could have been embedded the wrong side of the oring.
We live and learn... Regards, Martin
What does the regulator run at on a .22cal ?.
Hi John, I shoot 0.177 so haven't setup a 0.22. However, I would suggest that you need to start at the desired output rather than at the reg pressure. I say this because the actual muzzle energy developed is a complex combination of the reg pressure, the hammer spring tension, firing valve flow rate, pellet weight etc etc. So I would suggest that you need to decide on your desired muzzle energy e.g. in the UK with a sub-12ftlb gun you will probably be looking to achieve 11.4 - 11.6 ftlb. I would suggest initially setting the reg pressure to around 85BAR. Then fire over a chrono and calculate the muzzle energy. Very gradually increase the reg pressure and repeat the chrono work. Repeat until you achieve the desired output. This may sound like a lot of fuss but it has the advantage of using the minimum of air per shot and hence will give you the highest number of shots per fill. A lower reg pressure will also require a lower hammer spring tension in order to open the firing valve and this will reduce the tendency for hammer bounce which again wastes air.
Hope that this helps.
All the best, Martin
Hi John, I have tried to reply earlier but several times recently TH-cam has not posted replies - apologies. My message was that it is better to start at your desired output power and work back to the regulator pressure. I recommend working with the lowest reg pressure possible so that you get the best shot count from a fill.
If your gun is a UK sub-12ftlb model then I would suggest starting with the reg pressure at around 85-90 BAR. The shoot over a chrono with your preferred pellet and measure speed at the muzzle and hence calculate the muzzle energy. If necessary very gradually increase the reg pressure and redo the chrono work until you achieve your desired muzzle energy. For a UK legal limit gun I would suggest aiming for 11.4 ftlb to ensure that the gun remains legal.
All the best, Martin
Hi guys,
When I set my regulator to 87 bar the rifle is showing FAC on chrono which is no good, I need it to be below 12lb, when I increase the regulator to 100 bar the chrono reads 11.5 🤔 but does that mean my shot count will be very low due to extra air being used.
Is there a way I can get the regulator to sit below 90 and the chrono be below 12lb as shown in the video.
PLEASE HELP GUYS.
Hi Danny, The symptoms you describe seem counter intuitive. You mentioned that the chrono shows FAC when the regulator is set to 87 BAR. But have you actually calculated the FPE yourself from the muzzle velocity and an accurate pellet weight? It is worth doing this step first just in case there is something odd going on in the chrono firmware.
If the FPE does indeed drop from over 12 FPE to to 11.5 FPE when the reg pressure is increased to 100 BAR then I wonder if the hammer spring pressure is too high when the reg pressure is 87 BAR but not high enough when the reg pressure is increased to 100 BAR to fully open the firing valve long enough.
If the hammer spring has already had the anti-tamper removed then I would certainly try to set the reg back to 87 BAR and then decrease the hammer spring slightly and remeasure the FPE. Repeat and see if the FPE gradually drops.
I will be interested to hear form you how you get on.
All the best, Martin
You should have used your original air tank while working on gun , it would have saved a lot of released air ! But still very interesting video cheers buddy
Hi Paul, Yes, you are right. When working on the gun and having to remove and refit the cylinder several times it is a little annoying to have to dump all the air from the A&M cylinder because it doesn't have an internal valve. I bought this gun as a, near new but, second hand gun and the original owner had already fitted the A&M cylinder and sold on the original Weihrauch cylinder so unfortunately I don't have it.
That said I certainly would not give up the A&M cylinder because it is a great upgrade. It saves a pound in weight and holds more air so gives extra shots.
All the best, Martin
Great info....thanks
Firing valve !.....The leak was probably caused by over polishing the seat!? the machining micro grooves on the surface acting as sealing rings on the nylon!? Material used for the valve shaft that bite on the ridges 😏
Hi Paul, I take your point about the micro ridges and grooves but at the time I concluded that the leak after reassembly was due to very low air pressure in the cylinder as I tentatively started to refill the gun. The A&M light weight cylinder that I have on the HW100 does not have a built in valve and it loses all air pressure when it is disconnected from the gun. After reassembly I started to fill the cylinder from a dive tank and introduced air slowly and heard the hiss of escaping air from the firing valve. The problem was that I was filling the cylinder too slowly and there was not enough pressure behind the valve to create a perfect seal. When I opened the dive tank valve wider and quickly introduced round 40 BAR pressure into the gun the valve sealed perfectly. I have not had any issues with leaks since the rebuild.
My habit is to always fill the gun slowly to avoid over heating and I would give that advice to anyone but in this instance it caught me out. This issue should not arise with a HW100 that is fitted with the Weihrauch standard cylinder which can be removed and refitted to the gun while pressurised.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy good point, I'm one who loves a good technical problem to test myself, I have 4 hw's 110, 100, 44, & a 45 my fav is the 100 THL K squirrel noggin knocker🐹🔫 grey ones of course✌
@@paulward2668 The grey squirrels are certainly a major problem causing a huge amount of damage to our trees and native birds. Last year I tried out the new JSB Ultra Shock 4.5mm. I would describe them as a heavy hollow point flat head pellet. They are devastating - great knock down power. I am typically shooting, netted over, at around 20 yards. I wouldn't use them over 30 yards because the accuracy is not quite as good as the Exact and of course the trajectory is more loopy because of the 10.34g weight.
All the best, Martin
@@MartinHealy my favorite 4.5 is a 9.4 g hunter extreme good accuracy & expansion in 20 FPE FX gladiator also an 8.1g Polymag. In .22 the 15.89 Hades is brilliant for accuracy & expansion also 20 FPE for sub 12 I like premier's in both Cal's especially the heavy 4.5's for accuracy, always suck & see accuracy is king! Nice chatting stay safe Martin 👌👍 PS squirrel count last yr 345😉
@@MartinHealy
Hi Martin, here's one for you!..... I've been experiencing windage prob's with the 100 lately
(.22 ) karbine 12" brl, I've removed the brl band O ring! & it seems to have improved it a lot, wondered if you have any other solutions I could try ?
Regards Paul✌
Make sure everybody follows these videos, step by step but backwards 😂