That case has come up nice.👍 I prefer to mount Fuse Holders and Breakers in the top-panel, it keeps from stacking things on-top of heat sencetive items. You could do away with that 5volt input for the Fan, by using a Capacitive Dropper from the AC input, 30 to 40 mAmps.
I like glass fuses and having the fuse holder on the front panel but I bought a bunch of I.E.C. sockets that have a blade fuse holder and a rocker switch built in and it really simplifies that part of a project.
I agree with you Mike. I have done likewise in the past. In this case the "instrument" does not have a power input other than the 5V for the fan. It's just a passive resistive load. My only choice was a standalone fuse holder.
In some cases I don't like them. Sometimes they are in circuit to protect against a common issue and they go pop. One example is my mini lathe, if the work jams or stalls the spindle then the fuse blows. As this does happen quite a lot I got rather fed up with constantly changing fuses. So I machined up a brass fuse for the fuse holder, and fitted a mains rated thermal fuse behind the panel. The brass fuse was done so that I could use the fuse holder to mount the thermal fuse, and the mod was easily reversible. Worth thinking about is some cases./ Andy
A Circuit Breaker would have been a better choice, imo. If you want even more assurance, a Self Reseting Thermal fuse in SERIES with the Breaker. Its Not the best solution, but the risk is lower.
Those are awesome looking current meters !....cheers.
They are!
That case has come up nice.👍
I prefer to mount Fuse Holders and Breakers in the top-panel, it keeps from stacking things on-top of heat sencetive items.
You could do away with that 5volt input for the Fan, by using a Capacitive Dropper from the AC input, 30 to 40 mAmps.
Good tip!
I like glass fuses and having the fuse holder on the front panel but I bought a bunch of I.E.C. sockets that have a blade fuse holder and a rocker switch built in and it really simplifies that part of a project.
I agree with you Mike. I have done likewise in the past. In this case the "instrument" does not have a power input other than the 5V for the fan. It's just a passive resistive load. My only choice was a standalone fuse holder.
In some cases I don't like them. Sometimes they are in circuit to protect against a common issue and they go pop. One example is my mini lathe, if the work jams or stalls the spindle then the fuse blows. As this does happen quite a lot I got rather fed up with constantly changing fuses. So I machined up a brass fuse for the fuse holder, and fitted a mains rated thermal fuse behind the panel. The brass fuse was done so that I could use the fuse holder to mount the thermal fuse, and the mod was easily reversible.
Worth thinking about is some cases./
Andy
A Circuit Breaker would have been a better choice, imo.
If you want even more assurance, a Self Reseting Thermal fuse in SERIES with the Breaker.
Its Not the best solution, but the risk is lower.
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!