With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
Loved the jig idea, hope someday to have a dovetail log home, but even if I never do I think they make beautiful homes and cabins and I appreciate the skill involved in building of them.
I built a cabin just like yours with the dovetails almost thirty years ago only difference was I left the live edges top and bottom on the log and cut my notches with out the jig. I enjoyed felling the trees and milling the logs with the chain saw , I even put a half story on the cabin and my floors and roof were made of poles and planks that were taken from the property. My foundation was a drystack rock that I also harvested from the land which on the downhill side was as tall as me and I'm over 6 foot. All in all the cabin took awhile but turned out looking like it had fallen out of a fairytale because it was created using material harvested on site. Great video it brought back some fond memories of my time in the high country.
Hi Mark! Really appreciate the comment and your story. Would be interested to see your cabin. Where are you located? There is something special about building a cabin, I really am enjoying it. I have learned a lot from many people in the process and it has been really rewarding. Thanks so much!
I just about finished my 16 x16 with an 8 porch using the same dovetail jig. It worked out fantastic and after about 1-1/2 years the first joints I did are still very tight. Great system, good luck with the project.
The jig is great - I found it tricky to build, especially the beveled cut. Had a friend help who had some better tools. Where are you located John? 16x16 sounds like a good size. I hope my joints stay tight over time too. What kind of wood did you use?
I grew up on the Olympic Peninsula in the state of Washington near the town of Poulsbo. On most of the old farms there was a noticable Skandinavian influance and many of the out buildings were made with the dove tail logs. Some had coved bottoms and rounded tops. I suspect all were hand hewn. I'm sure they would have loved to have your saws and jigs. Thanks for the viceo.
Thanks for the feedback - I am new to this, so appreciate that. I am located in New Brunswick but have spent time in Fernie, BC which is not too far from Calgary. Beautiful out there.
Handcrafted log houses have been built for centuries in the Eastern parts of Finland. Also in Scandinavia, Russia and Eastern Europe, and were typically built using only an axe and knife. The settlers from the northern Europe brought the craft to North America in the early 17th century, where it was quickly adopted by other colonists and Native Americans. Possibly the oldest surviving log house in the United States is the C. A. Nothnagle Log House (circa 1640) in New Jersey. The Dovetail is designed to shed water in every direction which is why they are still standing more than 350 years later.
Hi Joseph! Thank you for that history and information. I find cabin history fascinating. The dovetail notch, to me, is just so beautiful. What part of the world are you in?
A very late reply to this video, but as I find myself coming back to it time and time again as I’m doing my research, I’d thought I would leave a comment to this as I saw it fitting. We’ve had these types of dove tails in Sweden for I don’t know how many hundreds of years. It’s a very common style in my province of Sweden at least, we do however make another angle instead of having them lapping straight like you’ve done. We have them angled from the outer edge to the inner as well. So apart from the vertical angle, they’re also angled horizontally if you understand how I mean. Hard to explain really unless I could find a picture of it. Anyways, I love the videos and would like to see more projects from you!
I got the plans for the jig from logdovetailjig.com so I cannot take credit for them - but I do agree it is a really nice way to make consistent notches. The walls came together well I think.
i went to Florida from October to March thus year and the first thing I noticed were my friends complaining of Mosquitos bothering them... when they ask me if the pests were bothering me I said what mosquitos??? in my world they dont exist... So kewl you said that meditation comment as that is exactly what you are doing when you will them to no longer bother you... and it is so neat to see You build a house with little tools...
Really? Here in Florida mosquitos carry West Nile virus, Eastern equine encephalitis, and St. Louis encephalitis. Enjoy those bites. (Oh and they also spread heartworm.)
Thanks for the comment! It's come along nicely. I'm on a bit of a break now as the winter snow has been building up but plan to get back at the cabin build in the next few weeks.
Put a 2X4 flat on top of each log to help make it more air tight you can put a bead of caulk on the 2X4 .... There will be a place to put mortar , just take two inch tape a run it along the top and bottom of the 2inch opening them fill it with mortar , let your flat trowel ran on top of the tape ... When it hardens remove the tape.. It will look great..oh might be a good ideal To put a few drywall screws in to help hold the mortar in because that house will move ... From heat and cold ...
A Scout Is Trustworthy, Loyal, Helpful , Friendly, courteous, cheerful, thrifty, kind, obedient, brave ,clean and reverent. I remembered them all, the order isn't right. it's been a long time. Good job.
Nice setup. Not the style I plan on using, but the use of jigs to reproduce same results is always a smart way to go and something I need to consider when I get around to building my vertical log Viking longhouse in two or three years on my second Alaskan property (currently building a tiny house on first Alaskan property).
Ha! Well perhaps, but yours looks very nice and the hand work you are doing is incredible. We will see how mine all fit together. They may take some fine tuning. Will keep you posted
Did you buy the Woodland Mills wood cutter I’m so inspired to make my own cabin I have a 12 acres land in Pennsylvania, so any tips would be a bless for me and my best wishes for you and your girl
I worked on some restoration of rotted sill logs + 2nd round on a historic cabin in AK. Up there, they left the tops of the logs round and carved a cup along the bottom of each log to receive the one below. I wouldn't guarantee that made a tighter seal, but that was their thinking back then. We didn't think of a jig, just a ruler, square, saw, chisel and adze.
Interesting! It is fascinating to hear and see all of the different ways cabins have been built. I have seen the type you are describing, and likely it is a very good way to build. I started this build as a novice at best, so the jigs were good for me to use. I got the plans for the jigs from logdovetailjig.com and then made them in the shop.
I’ve built cabins all my life- do not screw them together or use rebar to keep them from bowing!!!!! When the cabin settles there will be gaps and huge issues-
@@masaigeraghty3525 Just my thinking... Probably best to let the cabin settle many years and the logs to bend or move as they want. Do repairs as needed. If you use rebar or spikes, one problem log could effect several more that its tied too. This certainly could be an issue if you're using whatever logs you can scrounge on a DIY build vs logs that will probably be more stable from a log home company.
I've watched old Finnish carpenters build these things by eye with primitive hand tools from raw logs. It's impressive. In Scandinavian construction they stack the logs tight with only moss (insulation nowdays) between them. This is warmer than clay or mortar chinking.
I get a lot of comments about the gaps - I gather that different regions seemed to do it full-scribed vs with gaps. I think there seems to be pros and cons of each. I just like the look of the chinking in a cabin, personally. I think with the size of my cabin, and the way I plan to insulate the roof that I should be able to keep it warm :)
When doing line work or chalk line if you spray hairspray on the line it will lock it in place , works best on doing tyal grid lines for house floors or medal fabrication lines.
@@PenniacWilderness yes its hart to say ,, but every handyman or dyi guy should have a can of hairspray to lock chalk lines down , it best to ask the wife for a can if your to much of a real man, hahaha , that force you to remember hairspray , I just hope you dont forget if you ever have chalk a line grater the 25 meters thay all way disappear some place around the 12 to 14 meter mark.
@@talltimberswoodshop7552 nope not really ask any custom tyal layer . Hay my grand father was a army ranger in ww2 Normandy bunker bustier from fort Lee Virginia para school back in 1940s . And some please in Georgia. He was from New Mexico .
I need two different ones I need one for a 4 x 6 and I need one for a 6 by 10 what do you think the blueprints will cost me and where do I go to get them done to make that dovetail in
@ 4:42---Half of a fraction is very easy to find. Also to double. One half of 1/2 is 1/4. One half of 11/16 is 11/32. All you have to do is double the bottom number. 19/64's becomes 19/128. To double, just go the other way. 1/4 becomes 1/2. 19/32 becomes 19/16's.
Thanks for that! Yea, I am so used to metric from my day job that fractions are not something I use regularly. I am picking it up though, I like your tip!
@@colstace2560 Metric certainly comes more naturally for me, but I am trying to work with fractions as best I can. I don't think I really used fractions since math class in school though.
I can understand 200 years ago why the used concrete or whatever between the logs to seal the gaps but you'd think by now something better would be used like a rubber seal that's squeezed between while it's being assembled. You know they would of back then if they had access to that sort of thing.
great video! question, by using a jig and getting uniform cuts, are you not able to get a more precise fit? to save the amount of chinking? just curious. looking forward to seeing this cabin built!
Good question - I could have done the logs so there was no gap. I actually just like the look of chinking and wanted to try it. But you can make the jigs to creat any size gap, or no gap. Thanks for asking!
I like your comment about the bugs. Treat em like your training with weights on, i like that. If the training becomes too unbearable hehe, rub 100% pine gum turpentine on you jacket and they'll never come near you. Pine tree secretes pine sap to protect exposed area of bark so that no bugs or bacteria get into the bare wood. Turpentine is made from distilled pine sap meaning its a super strong bug repellant.
Dude, so glad you made this video....I'm building the same jig from Fred as well. It was nice to see it in action on here with those tricky bevel cuts. I ordered an 11 degree router bit for that, since my table saw only can do one side. Grew up in Downeast Maine (across from St.Stephen), you must be outside Fredericton..? Good luck with your build..!! 😎
Hi Dean - I have family in Perry, Maine. Yes I am outside of Fredericton area. I used a table saw for one jig and a bandsaw for another one. They were a little tricky to cut but after they are done the jigs work great. When do you plan to start your cabin?
@@PenniacWilderness Small world, my Mom grew up in Perry. Our family grew up in Calais, but I was born just past Perry in Eastport. Anyways, I have 20 acres of 60 foot plus red and white pine. I've been felling logs slowly the past year or so to let them dry, I have a LT35 woodmizer to get them down to 7.25x10" I'm trying to do a zero gap. I only live 25 miles south of the property so its easy to get to.
@@jdenmark1287 Thanks! Hawaii sounds like an alright spot :) I am located just north of Maine in New Brunswick, Canada. Maine is a beautiful spot as well.
It's prolly 4 years too late for this, but - - - had you made yourself a larger sight window ( 1.5" hole) for lining up the jig to the marks it'd be a heck of a lot easier and faster
Built a cabin with my uncle's and a couple cousins. Only thing precise was the cocoa. All hand tools. Dove tailed corners. Cut corners 1 at a time as we set em. Was in 87. Hiked to in about a year ago to show my daughter and all was almost precisely how it was originally. Biggest change was graffiti
Interesting, Jimmy. Important to have precise cocoa ha. Where are you located? I love seeing this style of construction. If you have a picture feel free to send it along penniacwilderness@outlook.com
@@Mikaiah72 Hi Billy - This project sounds really nice. I would love to see your progress. I enjoy learning how other builders do their work. I find I can learn so much from watching others work. You plan to make your own sawmill? That is impressive too! I am from eastern Canada - have never been to Virginia but would love to at some point!
Google has a lot of images of Spring Mill cabins or do one better, book a stay at the Inn. They have a water powered grist mill and saw mill in working condition.
I work in a big mill in Knox tn I am tackling my second run of dove tails I have 80 rt and 80 lft to cut we have an adjustable jig so anybody looking we sale the logs already dovetailed and ready to go the company is LDI outta knox tn we also do cheater corners or false corners and d lap sideing if ya wana cheat and build a look like cabin
Yes, there was not much progress to show for quite awhile due to all the prep work. It did make the walls go up fairly quickly though. The jigs are great though. I plan to use them in the future - perhaps for an out house too.
A very fast and accurate way to divide a fraction in half (in your head) is to just double the bottom number and leave the top number alone. I don't remember where I learned this trick but as a carpenter I have used it for over 50 years.
Two inch gap is kind of large after going through all of this. Just as well go the extra mile and put a tunnel in each to take a 2x4 in them make no gap and use a sealing tape. Cement gap is going to be cold and need repair often.
Hi George - Thank you for the suggestions. The chinking method has been used for a long time and I hope that it will work well for me too. But you are right there are many other good ways to do it as well.
the gap was left intentionally large to make sure the logs in saggging over time would never touch. If they do then the corner joints loosen and the whole cabin can shift, creating gaps all over.
Perma-Chink chinking is what you want NEVER use concrete or morter. It dries and looks like concrete or morter but acts like a rubber , it bonds to the wood and stretches when and where logs shrink. Been around since the early 80s . Bear Creek Log Home Restoration , Ellijay GA.
Very nice job ‘ just one question ‘ I know the gaps between the logs are chinked ‘ can u tell me does there need to be some type of downward angle on the log faces to prevent water seepage into the cabin’ when the logs shrink’ eg driving wind and rain ‘ or as we call it here in Ireland horizontal rain ‘ thanks very well explained’
Hi Martin - Thanks for asking. Where in Ireland are you based? I actually have worked in Ireland before but am based in Canada. You ask a good question - I see some people use the downward angle on the logs and others do not. I am not sure yet what I will do. I have a lot of overhang on my roof to protect form the vertical rain. I could easily bevel the edge of the bottom of all of my logs before chinking though too to be safe. What are your thoughts? Are you building as well? I think you can also angle the chinking such that the upper portion of the chinking is recessed more in the joint than the lower portion and therefore creating a form of drip edge as well. Short answer is that I am still thinking it through and open to ideas!
Hallo again ‘ yes I an building a log cabin 20 by 16 ft ‘ with them beautiful corner dovetails ‘ the logs are mill top and bottom and milled on the inside ‘ with the live edge on the outside’ in other words d shaped ‘ there is a 5 degree fall out on the logs top and bottom ‘ with the inside vertical ‘ I think this system will help water to flow to the outside and not flow into the cabin ‘ with our horizontal rains ‘ I live in wicklow in the mountains ‘ the logs are milled on a bandsaw 8by 8 inches ‘ and milled with the 5 degree offset up against the saw bed stops ‘ I have the wall up and the vaulted roof nearly on ‘ I started this time last year ‘ and I think it will take me another year ‘ so a 2 year build ‘ but I love building it and it is a great learning experience 😄
It is time to learn the trick to bisect a board, and locate the midpoint without fractions, almost. Run your tape across the board at an angle big enough to position the tape such that two even numbers sit precicely on the board edge. The point half-way between the two even numbers on the tape is the middle of the board. Do this in two spots and join them to extrapolate the middle to the end of the board. By using even numbers exclusively, you will never have do deal with an odd-ball fraction again. Math am I right?
You don't always need to deal with the fractions. If your sides are straight and parallel, angle your tape or better your framing square until your "measurement" is an easy number like 12" in this case from side to side. Mark the center/bisection at 6". That mark will line up with 5 1/8" measuring at 90 degrees across a 10 1/4" timber. I know you said yours had a taper but it's slight enough in this case that it wouldn't matter. Try it a few times and you'll be surprised how little error it introduces, even when measuring at a drastic angle.
For sure - A guy named Fred runs a site called logdovetailjig.com. He is very helpful. I think he is based in Montana. There small charge for the jig plans but he offers to refund the charge if you complete your project. Hope that helps!
Or you could carry the centrelines down the front and back edges where they would come into direct contact with the line on the log. No confusing windows needed.
Hi Paul - Yes there are probably other good ways to do this too. The windows worked pretty good overall, but it did take some time. Thanks for commenting!
I do not but a guy named Fred runs a site where he sells the plans. His site is logdovetailjig.com - they are a bit tricky to make but work really well!
Started re watching ur vids going to cut my logs this winter, when I order my jig plans what dimensions do I give Fred going to use cedar planned on only milling the inside and outside flat and leaving the top and bottom round, thinking of 2" gaps 6" wide by 10" to 12" tall logs cabin will be 12'x20' any info would be great Denis
Hi Denis, Do you want to chat on the phone someday? Send me an email at penniacwilderness@outlook.com with your phone number and I can give you some answers as best I can. Usually with Fred you just give him the log dimensions and the size of the gaps you want (I would think about larger than 2 inch gaps after my build). But let's chat!
That is my plan! I will mark them on the walls, reinforce the walls and then cut out the holes for the doors and windows. I might get to this over the winter even as it would be something I can do from the inside.
Just screw a 2x6 scrap piece from floor to the top row and go ahead and cut your windows and door openings you can just over cut them around 3 or 4” and go back later snap a chalk line and get them all perfect
Very ingenious! Can’t wait to watch more of your build.
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
The bug wisdom is the most Canadian thing on the TH-cam.
Loved the jig idea, hope someday to have a dovetail log home, but even if I never do I think they make beautiful homes and cabins and I appreciate the skill involved in building of them.
I built a cabin just like yours with the dovetails almost thirty years ago only difference was I left the live edges top and bottom on the log and cut my notches with out the jig. I enjoyed felling the trees and milling the logs with the chain saw , I even put a half story on the cabin and my floors and roof were made of poles and planks that were taken from the property. My foundation was a drystack rock that I also harvested from the land which on the downhill side was as tall as me and I'm over 6 foot. All in all the cabin took awhile but turned out looking like it had fallen out of a fairytale because it was created using material harvested on site. Great video it brought back some fond memories of my time in the high country.
Hi Mark! Really appreciate the comment and your story. Would be interested to see your cabin. Where are you located? There is something special about building a cabin, I really am enjoying it. I have learned a lot from many people in the process and it has been really rewarding. Thanks so much!
Thank you for the video I’m always looking to improve you did a great job
I just about finished my 16 x16 with an 8 porch using the same dovetail jig. It worked out fantastic and after about 1-1/2 years the first joints I did are still very tight. Great system, good luck with the project.
The jig is great - I found it tricky to build, especially the beveled cut. Had a friend help who had some better tools. Where are you located John? 16x16 sounds like a good size. I hope my joints stay tight over time too. What kind of wood did you use?
@@PenniacWilderness mine is white pine in New York near Buffalo. Here’s a photo
Amazing work. My grandfather did build his house in 1953 using the same technique back in Former Yugoslavia
That is fascinating! I found this type of cabin in the Czech Republic. Do you have any pictures o your father's house?
So the notch has top and bottom cut that are different can't really see
I grew up on the Olympic Peninsula in the state of Washington near the town of Poulsbo. On most of the old farms there was a noticable Skandinavian influance and many of the out buildings were made with the dove tail logs. Some had coved bottoms and rounded tops. I suspect all were hand hewn. I'm sure they would have loved to have your saws and jigs. Thanks for the viceo.
Fajna i bardzo precyzyjna metoda👍💪
I'm glad I work in millimetres, can't beat a good jig
Thanks for sharing your humble video. Filming and sound quality are very good.
Great work bro!!
Thanks a lot! This was one of the early videos and I hope folks found it interesting/helpful. Appreciate you writing - take care!
Хорошие приспособы. Методика выпиливания лапы доступно изложена.
Спасибо ! 🧤
Thanks for taking the time to film and post, best of luck with you’re cabin
I appreciate it! Hope you found it helpful.
Your commentary is honestly a good break from some of these overtly excited and loud TH-camrs 🤙🏽
Thanks for the feedback - I am new to this, so appreciate that. I am located in New Brunswick but have spent time in Fernie, BC which is not too far from Calgary. Beautiful out there.
Agree to that!
LOVE the jigs + chainsaw stops!
All credit to Fred at logdovetailjig.com for the plans to make the jigs.
Drill a 2" or so for hole for a sight window. It won't hurt or compromise the rigidity of the jig and will be much easier to see the center line
Thanks for sharing....great idea with the jig. Enjoy your Small Cabin Living
Thank you for the comment and well wishes. I hope you are well too!
Excellent.
Many thanks! Also please check out logdovetailjig.com!
That's a great idea to use a jig ....
Handcrafted log houses have been built for centuries in the Eastern parts of Finland. Also in Scandinavia, Russia and Eastern Europe, and were typically built using only an axe and knife. The settlers from the northern Europe brought the craft to North America in the early 17th century, where it was quickly adopted by other colonists and Native Americans. Possibly the oldest surviving log house in the United States is the C. A. Nothnagle Log House (circa 1640) in New Jersey. The Dovetail is designed to shed water in every direction which is why they are still standing more than 350 years later.
Hi Joseph! Thank you for that history and information. I find cabin history fascinating. The dovetail notch, to me, is just so beautiful. What part of the world are you in?
A very late reply to this video, but as I find myself coming back to it time and time again as I’m doing my research, I’d thought I would leave a comment to this as I saw it fitting.
We’ve had these types of dove tails in Sweden for I don’t know how many hundreds of years. It’s a very common style in my province of Sweden at least, we do however make another angle instead of having them lapping straight like you’ve done. We have them angled from the outer edge to the inner as well. So apart from the vertical angle, they’re also angled horizontally if you understand how I mean. Hard to explain really unless I could find a picture of it. Anyways, I love the videos and would like to see more projects from you!
That chainsaw setup is smart, never seen that before.
I got the plans for the jig from logdovetailjig.com so I cannot take credit for them - but I do agree it is a really nice way to make consistent notches. The walls came together well I think.
i went to Florida from October to March thus year and the first thing I noticed were my friends complaining of Mosquitos bothering them... when they ask me if the pests were bothering me I said what mosquitos??? in my world they dont exist... So kewl you said that meditation comment as that is exactly what you are doing when you will them to no longer bother you... and it is so neat to see You build a house with little tools...
Really? Here in Florida mosquitos carry West Nile virus, Eastern equine encephalitis, and St. Louis encephalitis. Enjoy those bites. (Oh and they also spread heartworm.)
Nice work! That’s going to be beautiful and very rewarding! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment! It's come along nicely. I'm on a bit of a break now as the winter snow has been building up but plan to get back at the cabin build in the next few weeks.
👍 nice job !
Awesome!
Excellent video! Very helpful!
Thanks Rich, hope you are well. We plan to show more of the progress as we move along. Thanks for the comment!
Put a 2X4 flat on top of each log to help make it more air tight you can put a bead of caulk on the 2X4 .... There will be a place to put mortar , just take two inch tape a run it along the top and bottom of the 2inch opening them fill it with mortar , let your flat trowel ran on top of the tape ... When it hardens remove the tape..
It will look great..oh might be a good ideal
To put a few drywall screws in to help hold the mortar in because that house will move ... From heat and cold ...
Hello from Jean Rimouski Quebec and well done for the ingenuity you put into all your work!
Hello there! Merci. The idea for the jigs came from logdovetailjig.com, so feel free to check out his site too, but thank you for the comment too!
Well done young man, Hello from Odessa Ontario Canada
Thanks Kevin! Hello to you from York County, New Brunswick, Canada. I appreciate the comment.
Nice cutting, good idea the adder to the chain bar.
Thanks - The idea and plans for the jig comes from Fred at logdovetailjig.com
when you snap your line just pick the line so lightly and let the chalk drop off. all your chalk went in the air. nice work larry
Great tip! Thanks Larry.
If I ever get around to buying some wooded land and building a cabin, I am going with dovetails.
I really like the dovetail style. What part of the world are you located in?
Beautiful work
Thanks Pedro! Where are you from?
I'm fro LA california
and thx to you bro
A Scout Is Trustworthy, Loyal, Helpful , Friendly, courteous, cheerful, thrifty, kind, obedient, brave ,clean and reverent. I remembered them all, the order isn't right. it's been a long time. Good job.
Nice setup. Not the style I plan on using, but the use of jigs to reproduce same results is always a smart way to go and something I need to consider when I get around to building my vertical log Viking longhouse in two or three years on my second Alaskan property (currently building a tiny house on first Alaskan property).
Interesting! Alaska is such a beautiful spot. I went to Denali in 2017 and spent time in Alaska beforehand. Thanks for connecting :)
If or when a horizontal log rots it can be replaced. When vertical logs rot the whole bldg
needs replacing.
Cut a hole near your screw holes, and draw a line on centre at each end. You could check the centre of tour jig a lot more easily.
Thanks Peter - This would work too, many ways to do this part for sure.
You can do a lot fast with those jigs. That would be the way to go.
Just subbed. Awesome content. I just may have to build one myself! Look forward to the test of the build.
Thanks - You have some great projects and videos too. Spent some time on your channel today. Good to connect and thanks for the comment!
@@PenniacWilderness Thanks for tuning in. Hope to connect more in the future
Very interesting video enjoyable
Thank-you! Are you based in Scotland? What part? Thanks for the comment.
Penniac Wilderness yes I’m from Scotland Ayrshire
But homes Caithness mums side
Top notch !!!
Thanks! The cabin is coming together now. Those jigs worked out really well.
Nice jig! Seems to be much faster way to cut the logs than mine :)
Ha! Well perhaps, but yours looks very nice and the hand work you are doing is incredible. We will see how mine all fit together. They may take some fine tuning. Will keep you posted
Very well done lad.
Thanks Phi! Appreciate you writing :)
Are you planning to remove all the bark? Are you going to trim the dovetails shorter after you have all the walls up?
nice ..... very thorough work..... might need to add a link to woodland mills.... looks like that sawmill did it's part......h
Yes you are right! The mill and the support at Woodlandmills has been excellent. Could not have done it without them at all. Thanks for the comment!
try dry used coffee grounds pack in glass container pack it in add wick in center add cloves light smoke keep bugs away
Great job
Thank-you!
Did you buy the
Woodland Mills wood cutter
I’m so inspired to make my own cabin I have a 12 acres land in Pennsylvania, so any tips would be a bless for me and my best wishes for you and your girl
I did - I got the Woodlandmills HM126 and very, very happy with it and the customer service.
outstanding!!!
Thanks!
really amazing.
Thanks a lot!
Nice!
Thanks Brian! Take care :)
I worked on some restoration of rotted sill logs + 2nd round on a historic cabin in AK. Up there, they left the tops of the logs round and carved a cup along the bottom of each log to receive the one below. I wouldn't guarantee that made a tighter seal, but that was their thinking back then. We didn't think of a jig, just a ruler, square, saw, chisel and adze.
Interesting! It is fascinating to hear and see all of the different ways cabins have been built. I have seen the type you are describing, and likely it is a very good way to build. I started this build as a novice at best, so the jigs were good for me to use. I got the plans for the jigs from logdovetailjig.com and then made them in the shop.
jig measurements?
I’ve built cabins all my life- do not screw them together or use rebar to keep them from bowing!!!!! When the cabin settles there will be gaps and huge issues-
What other issues?
@@masaigeraghty3525 Just my thinking... Probably best to let the cabin settle many years and the logs to bend or move as they want. Do repairs as needed. If you use rebar or spikes, one problem log could effect several more that its tied too. This certainly could be an issue if you're using whatever logs you can scrounge on a DIY build vs logs that will probably be more stable from a log home company.
I've watched old Finnish carpenters build these things by eye with primitive hand tools from raw logs. It's impressive.
In Scandinavian construction they stack the logs tight with only moss (insulation nowdays) between them. This is warmer than clay or mortar chinking.
I get a lot of comments about the gaps - I gather that different regions seemed to do it full-scribed vs with gaps. I think there seems to be pros and cons of each. I just like the look of the chinking in a cabin, personally. I think with the size of my cabin, and the way I plan to insulate the roof that I should be able to keep it warm :)
5 Thumbs Up... Great Job!
Thanks James! Appreciate it :)
When doing line work or chalk line if you spray hairspray on the line it will lock it in place , works best on doing tyal grid lines for house floors or medal fabrication lines.
Good tip! I did not know this. Thanks!
@@PenniacWilderness yes its hart to say ,, but every handyman or dyi guy should have a can of hairspray to lock chalk lines down , it best to ask the wife for a can if your to much of a real man, hahaha , that force you to remember hairspray , I just hope you dont forget if you ever have chalk a line grater the 25 meters thay all way disappear some place around the 12 to 14 meter mark.
Red chalk is supposed to be permanent.
@@talltimberswoodshop7552 nope not really ask any custom tyal layer . Hay my grand father was a army ranger in ww2 Normandy bunker bustier from fort Lee Virginia para school back in 1940s . And some please in Georgia. He was from New Mexico .
Telling your buddies you hair spray your chalk line is like telling them you pee sitting down... a friend told me so. 😂
I need two different ones I need one for a 4 x 6 and I need one for a 6 by 10 what do you think the blueprints will cost me and where do I go to get them done to make that dovetail in
Logdovetailjig.com - The gentleman's name is Fred and he sells the plans. Great guy to deal with and very talented.
@ 4:42---Half of a fraction is very easy to find. Also to double. One half of 1/2 is 1/4. One half of 11/16 is 11/32. All you have to do is double the bottom number. 19/64's becomes 19/128. To double, just go the other way. 1/4 becomes 1/2. 19/32 becomes 19/16's.
Thanks for that! Yea, I am so used to metric from my day job that fractions are not something I use regularly. I am picking it up though, I like your tip!
Did he say half of 10-1/8th was 4-1/16th ? Oh no 😲😲 stick with metric it's sooo much easier and better, catch up USA !!
@@colstace2560 Metric certainly comes more naturally for me, but I am trying to work with fractions as best I can. I don't think I really used fractions since math class in school though.
Converting fractions to metric is another problem, for me anyways. Whatever works for who ever is doing the work is a good rule. Thanks for the vid.
Cedar Hill State Park near Dallas has a few structures with these exact dovetails.
Interesting! I've been to Texas, but never knew about this area. I will look it up.
I can understand 200 years ago why the used concrete or whatever between the logs to seal the gaps but you'd think by now something better would be used like a rubber seal that's squeezed between while it's being assembled. You know they would of back then if they had access to that sort of thing.
For how long does the logs need to dry before you can cut dove tails in it?
Be to draw out the pattern messer out each one show pieces
Dr. was just here in the states when people used to come over from Europe that's how it started here in the states.
Hello...I would like to have the info. On the jig man...this is what I've been looking for...thank you...hope you can help
And what size logs do you use to dovetail
Mine were 10 inch high and 6 inch wide
What is the average time to cut one log? How long to build a 12' x 12' x9' cabin? One door and one window.
Молодец просто СУПЕР.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate it. I will be in your country in August 2020 for a short while.
great video! question, by using a jig and getting uniform cuts, are you not able to get a more precise fit? to save the amount of chinking? just curious. looking forward to seeing this cabin built!
Good question - I could have done the logs so there was no gap. I actually just like the look of chinking and wanted to try it. But you can make the jigs to creat any size gap, or no gap. Thanks for asking!
I like your comment about the bugs. Treat em like your training with weights on, i like that. If the training becomes too unbearable hehe, rub 100% pine gum turpentine on you jacket and they'll never come near you. Pine tree secretes pine sap to protect exposed area of bark so that no bugs or bacteria get into the bare wood. Turpentine is made from distilled pine sap meaning its a super strong bug repellant.
Thanks for the tips! Some day I should actually try that. I have heard about it but never tried. Thanks for the comment.
Dude, so glad you made this video....I'm building the same jig from Fred as well. It was nice to see it in action on here with those tricky bevel cuts. I ordered an 11 degree router bit for that, since my table saw only can do one side. Grew up in Downeast Maine (across from St.Stephen), you must be outside Fredericton..? Good luck with your build..!! 😎
Hi Dean - I have family in Perry, Maine. Yes I am outside of Fredericton area. I used a table saw for one jig and a bandsaw for another one. They were a little tricky to cut but after they are done the jigs work great. When do you plan to start your cabin?
@@PenniacWilderness Small world, my Mom grew up in Perry. Our family grew up in Calais, but I was born just past Perry in Eastport. Anyways, I have 20 acres of 60 foot plus red and white pine. I've been felling logs slowly the past year or so to let them dry, I have a LT35 woodmizer to get them down to 7.25x10" I'm trying to do a zero gap. I only live 25 miles south of the property so its easy to get to.
Old timber framer here, Mainer exiled to Hawaii. Good job on your project and presentation. And good luck on yours.
@@jdenmark1287 Thanks! Hawaii sounds like an alright spot :) I am located just north of Maine in New Brunswick, Canada. Maine is a beautiful spot as well.
It's prolly 4 years too late for this, but - - - had you made yourself a larger sight window ( 1.5" hole) for lining up the jig to the marks it'd be a heck of a lot easier and faster
Help.so the jig has 2 different cuts a bottom and top ??
Built a cabin with my uncle's and a couple cousins. Only thing precise was the cocoa.
All hand tools. Dove tailed corners.
Cut corners 1 at a time as we set em.
Was in 87. Hiked to in about a year ago to show my daughter and all was almost precisely how it was originally. Biggest change was graffiti
Interesting, Jimmy. Important to have precise cocoa ha. Where are you located? I love seeing this style of construction. If you have a picture feel free to send it along penniacwilderness@outlook.com
@@Mikaiah72 Hi Billy - This project sounds really nice. I would love to see your progress. I enjoy learning how other builders do their work. I find I can learn so much from watching others work. You plan to make your own sawmill? That is impressive too! I am from eastern Canada - have never been to Virginia but would love to at some point!
Amazing ❤️
Thanks 😄 Have a great weekend, Joanna!
👍👍👍
I've seen this style logs at Spring Mill state park in Mitchell Indiana.
Interesting - Yes I've seen them a few places but I've never been to Indiana. I like the style and always wanted to try building one.
Google has a lot of images of Spring Mill cabins or do one better, book a stay at the Inn. They have a water powered grist mill and saw mill in working condition.
Where do you get the jig plans agai n? Fred?
Yes, Fred is the man :)
Thanks I found your link right after I asked. When you stack the logs what did you put between them? Roll foam? Caulk? Liquid Nails?
They make "Centering" tape measure.
I work in a big mill in Knox tn I am tackling my second run of dove tails I have 80 rt and 80 lft to cut we have an adjustable jig so anybody looking we sale the logs already dovetailed and ready to go the company is LDI outta knox tn we also do cheater corners or false corners and d lap sideing if ya wana cheat and build a look like cabin
Very interesting! Thanks for the message.
Wow a ton of prep but it’s much faster then when I made my cabin I cut the rounded notches in my as I went along !
Yes, there was not much progress to show for quite awhile due to all the prep work. It did make the walls go up fairly quickly though. The jigs are great though. I plan to use them in the future - perhaps for an out house too.
Great Idea. Impressing.
consider using colored pencils when wood working. I've "lost" regular pencil marks, that's why I switched to colored pencils.
A very fast and accurate way to divide a fraction in half (in your head) is to just double the bottom number and leave the top number alone. I don't remember where I learned this trick but as a carpenter I have used it for over 50 years.
Thanks David for the comment!
As far as the bugs why not use bug spray??? Just curious
I do sometimes, but kind of prefer the bugs most of the time
Two inch gap is kind of large after going through all of this. Just as well go the extra mile and put a tunnel in each to take a 2x4 in them make no gap and use a sealing tape. Cement gap is going to be cold and need repair often.
Hi George - Thank you for the suggestions. The chinking method has been used for a long time and I hope that it will work well for me too. But you are right there are many other good ways to do it as well.
the gap was left intentionally large to make sure the logs in saggging over time would never touch. If they do then the corner joints loosen and the whole cabin can shift, creating gaps all over.
Perma-Chink chinking is what you want NEVER use concrete or morter. It dries and looks like concrete or morter but acts like a rubber , it bonds to the wood and stretches when and where logs shrink. Been around since the early 80s . Bear Creek Log Home Restoration , Ellijay GA.
Nice! Thanks
Thank you as well :)
❤❤❤🎉😮 1:32 1:34 ❤❤❤
Very nice job ‘ just one question ‘ I know the gaps between the logs are chinked ‘ can u tell me does there need to be some type of downward angle on the log faces to prevent water seepage into the cabin’ when the logs shrink’ eg driving wind and rain ‘ or as we call it here in Ireland horizontal rain ‘ thanks very well explained’
Hi Martin - Thanks for asking. Where in Ireland are you based? I actually have worked in Ireland before but am based in Canada. You ask a good question - I see some people use the downward angle on the logs and others do not. I am not sure yet what I will do. I have a lot of overhang on my roof to protect form the vertical rain. I could easily bevel the edge of the bottom of all of my logs before chinking though too to be safe. What are your thoughts? Are you building as well? I think you can also angle the chinking such that the upper portion of the chinking is recessed more in the joint than the lower portion and therefore creating a form of drip edge as well. Short answer is that I am still thinking it through and open to ideas!
Hello again ‘ yes I am building a cabin like yours 20 by 16 ft ‘ with them beautiful dovtails
Hallo again ‘ yes I an building a log cabin 20 by 16 ft ‘ with them beautiful corner dovetails ‘ the logs are mill top and bottom and milled on the inside ‘ with the live edge on the outside’ in other words d shaped ‘ there is a 5 degree fall out on the logs top and bottom ‘ with the inside vertical ‘ I think this system will help water to flow to the outside and not flow into the cabin ‘ with our horizontal rains ‘ I live in wicklow in the mountains ‘ the logs are milled on a bandsaw 8by 8 inches ‘ and milled with the 5 degree offset up against the saw bed stops ‘ I have the wall up and the vaulted roof nearly on ‘ I started this time last year ‘ and I think it will take me another year ‘ so a 2 year build ‘ but I love building it and it is a great learning experience 😄
@@PenniacWilderness big roof overhang (4'+) will save your walls & foundation better than eavestrough with the ice of a Canadian winter.
It is time to learn the trick to bisect a board, and locate the midpoint without fractions, almost. Run your tape across the board at an angle big enough to position the tape such that two even numbers sit precicely on the board edge. The point half-way between the two even numbers on the tape is the middle of the board. Do this in two spots and join them to extrapolate the middle to the end of the board. By using even numbers exclusively, you will never have do deal with an odd-ball fraction again. Math am I right?
You don't always need to deal with the fractions. If your sides are straight and parallel, angle your tape or better your framing square until your "measurement" is an easy number like 12" in this case from side to side. Mark the center/bisection at 6". That mark will line up with 5 1/8" measuring at 90 degrees across a 10 1/4" timber. I know you said yours had a taper but it's slight enough in this case that it wouldn't matter. Try it a few times and you'll be surprised how little error it introduces, even when measuring at a drastic angle.
Good points! That also would be a good way to do it. Thanks for taking the time and the detailed explanation.
Cool.
Your notches are called "Half Dovetail"
Can you let me know where you got the jig plans please?
For sure - A guy named Fred runs a site called logdovetailjig.com. He is very helpful. I think he is based in Montana. There small charge for the jig plans but he offers to refund the charge if you complete your project. Hope that helps!
Or you could carry the centrelines down the front and back edges where they would come into direct contact with the line on the log. No confusing windows needed.
Hi Paul - Yes there are probably other good ways to do this too. The windows worked pretty good overall, but it did take some time. Thanks for commenting!
Did you let the logs dry first? If so how long? Thanks
I did for about 9 months. Some say longer is needed. Others say you can build green. I really don't know what's best.
Do you sell the jiggs??
I do not but a guy named Fred runs a site where he sells the plans. His site is logdovetailjig.com - they are a bit tricky to make but work really well!
Started re watching ur vids going to cut my logs this winter, when I order my jig plans what dimensions do I give Fred going to use cedar planned on only milling the inside and outside flat and leaving the top and bottom round, thinking of 2" gaps 6" wide by 10" to 12" tall logs cabin will be 12'x20' any info would be great Denis
Hi Denis, Do you want to chat on the phone someday? Send me an email at penniacwilderness@outlook.com with your phone number and I can give you some answers as best I can. Usually with Fred you just give him the log dimensions and the size of the gaps you want (I would think about larger than 2 inch gaps after my build). But let's chat!
@@PenniacWilderness Hi came across ur video on utube great job by the way can we chat ? My email is inhomebars@yahoo.com. Thanks Masai.
We pulled apart an original log house in southern Ontario. The best preserved logs (150yrs +) were larch, not cedar. I was surprised!
@@kerriwilson7732 larch is that a juniper or a tamarack tree that we call them here in southern new brunswick... lol
what about doors and windows? Do you cut them out at the end after the walls are all up?
That is my plan! I will mark them on the walls, reinforce the walls and then cut out the holes for the doors and windows. I might get to this over the winter even as it would be something I can do from the inside.
Just screw a 2x6 scrap piece from floor to the top row and go ahead and cut your windows and door openings you can just over cut them around 3 or 4” and go back later snap a chalk line and get them all perfect
slick
There are many ways to do it, but this has worked for me so far.