Learn how to test TRIAC with a multimeter, what is TRIAC & how TRIAC works
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I’ve watched 3 other videos and still didn’t understand how to test with a meter and your explanation worked great for me. Thank you
Andre the Giant is alive
Great clarity. Thanks a lot !
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent explanation. Liked the idea of putting the TRIAC on the DMM display to demonstrate; simple, clever. Thx!
Glad it was helpful! thank you
So nice
The world's best teacher thanks
I appreciate that
Good
THANK YOU SIR.
You are most welcome
Nice video ,thanks :)
Thank you too!
Thanks bro
Sorry I'm commenting so much, but... :D ...I may have another video for you to make (or not). I disassembled a dimmer wall switch from Home Depot. The TRIAC was [I think] from a previous construction out there as it is labeled as a X25783. I found a conversation indicating that the TRIAC you discussed is a newer construction and has a DIAC built-in to the (G)ate ... where the X25783 does not. Here's the copy...
"The problem may be caused by the new triac having a different construction to the older one. I can't say for sure because I can't find a data sheet for the X25783 but it's equivalent, Q2010LT has a DIAC built into the gate circuit. The BTA16-600B does not. You will have to add a DIAC in series with its gate to get it to work in your dimmer."
So, the X25783 does not test the same way as your video that uses a BTA12 600B. Is that worth discussing? And, a followup video? Thx as always. Cheers.
I used this method to test a traic on a tankless water heater. I got a value of 1 and the remaining 3 were much higher, in the 30s. The value is not relevant as the triacs were different rating. I ordered a replacement, but I will see if it works.
😁
thank you very much bro
You're welcome!
Thank you
You're welcome
Good.
Thanks
I tested the triac in my ceiling fan's receiver since the fan works but the lights (which are controlled by this triac) don't turn on. On the continuity setting, it's showing a value of 170 between the outer pins (A1 and G). Does that mean that my triac is bad or is 170 an acceptable value? The triac I have is BTA08-600B.
Thanks there for such a comprehensive video! 🙏
My pleasure!
Please I need help do you have different types of triac all testing same way
For clarification you're saying 70 not 0.70 correct?
I measured 94ohms between A1 and gate on triac MC108. Is it good triac? Plz help, I ma trying to repait my washing machine...
I get different reading when switching sides 127 and 172 does it mean that my triac is bad
If the reading between pin 1 and 3 is 175...using diode scale on digital multimeter...what is it mean?
Hello, Unfortunately the sound is not very clear at this part of the video so please could you clarify the option to be selected on the multimeter? Thanks.
Hi,
Sorry about that, the option to be selected is continuity option or buzzer option.
How to check the insulation in the triac?
Having a voltage drop of 0.1v or 0.098 between anode1 and gate is normal ? (Is this a good or bad triac ? ?
Thx in advance 🙏
i have the same question 😅
I bought some new BTA06-600C and they are working but the value is 187 instead of 70.
If they work proprely, discard that. Or maybe the multimeter you use is out of calibration.
I have noticed on schematics that icons often do not indicate which terminal is MT1 and which is MT2. Some have MT1 nearest the gate, and others have MT2 nearest the gate. Does it matter in any way?
if you have T1 and T2 other way around in that setup, then it just doesn't work, because T1 and gate are already activated (by default) and the goal with the 1,5V is to activate T2 and gate, because that shorts T1 and T2, so that the 12V can power the lamp.
so in other words:
if you have activated connection between T1 and T2 (by connecting 1,5V between T2 and gate) and you remove the 1,5V from gate, then it still keeps going.
If then you connect the 1,5V between T1 and Gate, that is basically the same as if it would be between T2 and gate, so nothing happens.
Only way to stop the lamp is cut 12V somewhere so that voltage between T1 and T2 goes to 0, then gate goes back to default state.
This is the reason why this is pretty much only used in AC circuits, because there voltage may go to 0 like 100 times in a second, so gate goes back to default state very fastly after power is cut from there
hopefully this explanation make it clear :)
What happens if you short mt1 and mt2 intentionally. Will it destroy the triac?
T1 and T2 are the pins that short when gate is activated, so there is not any harm to short those intentionally :)
Silly question... DIACs and TRIACs are generally used in AC circuits. Your demo circuit was DC. Any comments on AC vs DC when it comes to DIACs and TRIACs? Thx.
Hello. The TRIAC is generally used in AC but can also be used as DC because it's essentially two inverse-parallel diodes with a gate. The demonstration is simply to illustrate the basic function of the TRIAC.
@@benlivingstone8272 , TY - appreciated.
my bta16 600b is75 ohm
I have BT138S 600E and when I tested I get 0.244 is this too low?
Join me on my Patreon Page or facebook group and I will assist you
What is the reference of the triac on the Motherboard to identify it
The ref of the triac in the motherboard is "TR". But sometimes in some boards it can be "D" or "U"
Hello mine is 97 good or I must change?
My triack is btb16 600w
what is zero seventy? is that .070? what significance is the initial zero value in the voltage drop? and if it is .070 what is the last zero for? otherwise the first zero before seventy is curious.
0.7 drop voltage
@@electronicsrepairbasics_erb thanks!
🫀🙋
You are very welcome
Triac is for alternating current application only. This presentation is wrong.
So nice