Hello, Crank. The videos you make are very objective with a lot of information. I am currently rebuilding an M57 306 D3 engine from a 2006 730D E65 (personal car) that has spinning the bearing no. 1 Regarding the difference in bearing tolerance that you encountered with Glyco bearings, the problem is that factory BMW uses 3 sizes of bearings for stage 0 (yellow, green and white) depending on the size of the factory shaft. On my engine that broke down they were yellow, on the engine I bought for the crankshaft and block they are green. I measured the tolerances and decided to go with white OEM bearings for 1 and 2 (tolerances of 0.045-0.050 on the green) and green on the rest because the tolerances are ok on the rest between 0.030 and 0.038 with the old bearings. The aftermarket bearings come only for the yellow tolerance 59.977 - 59.983 and this is where the big tolerance differences are with aftermarket bearings.
Massive thanks for the video, I haven't even watched it all but I love the detail you've gone into. You also mentioned about talking too much but I think if anyone has an issue they can fast forward, you've got a lot of knowledge that isnt easily available, so talk away haha! I hope you continue with in depth M57n2 engines, the only video I'm aware of with a complete rebuild is in Russian I think so this is great to have.
Nice video, very instructive. Thank you. If I have only one suggestion, is that the channel lack of visibility. it would be great that your video are splited into playlists, it's easier to follow and to find the next part of the assembly. Thanks again for this informative video, the contain is great. Cheers from France. Kevin
Hi mate do you have a video that demonstrates you removing or installing sump pan, I've stupidly put all torx bolts in same bag and not sure the layout for them
You are right actually. I haven't notice this, because all the other torque specs are all the same with the cast iron cylinder block. I guess I will need to change little bit the next episode. Still it is not the end of the world, the spec is 25nm+50nm+90deg which I did, after that undoing and 25nm+50nm+ two times 60 deg. Nice catch
Actually on a second thought, I'm almost sure that AutoData and HaynesPro was claiming that the torque spec should be 50+90deg. Still bmw tis should be more reliable source, but there is claiming that the bolts should be 12.9 strength and the bolts which I removed and installed were 10.9 ( if I remember right ), kind of misleading.
You will notice slightly better distribution of plastigauge. Better clearance. But Glyco is a solution just for top dimension crankshafts, I am always aiming towards reusing original bearings, if they look ok.
@@CompleteCHIPIasi Who doesn't like OEM. I have used Glyco on many M57 engines without any issue and with this clearance I'm sure that there will be no issue.
But I don't understand why there are so many problems, because this is considered to be the legendary m57 engine, there are many people saying that they're went over 1 milion km or have 6-700.000 km with original timing chain ? 🤔 Or the m57 tu2 is not that reliable as the 218 m57 tu? Great video, please answer 👃
you have good english. you make good work i wish in france i have a mechanic like you making a perfect engine. then i have no choice i am doing all by my self. are you in lituania ? continue your great videos i leanr always with you
@@crank3646 Hello, i am from Romania, i own a 530 xd m57 2008, i would like to do a timming chain change, what would be the cost of labor for tht kind of work ( in euro) , whith parts included....?
@@stefanszel6631 Depends on many things. But if we stick only with changing the timing components with OEM parts and nothing more around the repair, something around ~ 1200 EUR.
Тази линия с която измерваш плоскоста на цилиндровия блок не е ли малко къса..Не трябва ли да е равна на дължината на блока?И как точно най -добре се мери плоскоста на блока,къде и в какви равнини?И може ли да се мери плоскоста без да се сваля блока?В момента моето БМВ с M57 D30 (306D5) двигател 210 киловата година на производство 08,06,2007 е на ремонт и искам да знам.Благодаря предварително.
For performance M57D30TÜ TOP, because it has cast iron cylinder block. For reliability they are pretty much the same. The older versions has solid camshafts which is much better choice. I prefer the aluminium cylinder block cuz is much more lighter and if the car is not abused all the time, it will not make any problems in long run. I hate diesel performance cars, so the only reason if I'm going to buy this engine is going to be for daily car. My daily is M57D30TU2 235 hp. With good servicing intervals, quality oils and filters, and if the car is not driven from an 20-25 years old wanna be gangsta, this engine is going to last a lot of mileages
@@crank3646 thanks for replying. I too have the same engine in my 08 e65 currently at 90k miles. Thanks to you I now understand my car much more and have decided to keep it for many years as my daily (I was going to get rid of it because of worry about too many electrical components and failures, now I realise some of them are separate things and my engine has always been good). I am going to follow all your advice about chain replacement and common failing parts, like that coolant flange pipe I never knew that could fail. I came from motorcycles (in the mechanical way) and never looked at my car any more than basic servicing. Now you made me realise its not as complicated as I thought just everything is bigger and need some better tools. So thank you for the inspiration and keep up with the m57 videos! 👍👍 Im even having ideas to get a project m57 to learn and have fun 😂
Good Job as allways! You think will be possible to go back to ms41 and have a video of how to do the right tune to get the most power from m50 manifold swap?
Thanks! I have already a similar video about it. The difference is that, it is including S52 intake camshaft + M50NV camshaft, but the process is pretty much the same. Just check my older videos.
Great video again! Keep up the good work! Иначе да споделя и аз понеже веднъж сглабяхме такъв мотор, имахме и 2 колянови вала, стари и нови лагери, каквото и да слагахме все излизаше голяма хлабината, в норми, ама към по-лабавия край. Относно гарнитурата на главата се мереше надстърчането на буталото от блока, ама нещо не схванах защо не се взема под внимание дали и колко е шлайфана главата?!?
Мерси :) Да по нататък и затова ще стане дума. Като цяло защото клапаните лежат на една основа с главата ( почти... ). Въпреки това аз я взимам под внимание, защото все пак не са като на JTD моторите, идеално равни с челото на главата. В следващите видеа ще видиш какво имам предвит, как клапаните са леееко потънали навътре в главата и въпреки това след шлайфа не са закачени.
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Hello, Crank. The videos you make are very objective with a lot of information. I am currently rebuilding an M57 306 D3 engine from a 2006 730D E65 (personal car) that has spinning the bearing no. 1 Regarding the difference in bearing tolerance that you encountered with Glyco bearings, the problem is that factory BMW uses 3 sizes of bearings for stage 0 (yellow, green and white) depending on the size of the factory shaft. On my engine that broke down they were yellow, on the engine I bought for the crankshaft and block they are green. I measured the tolerances and decided to go with white OEM bearings for 1 and 2 (tolerances of 0.045-0.050 on the green) and green on the rest because the tolerances are ok on the rest between 0.030 and 0.038 with the old bearings. The aftermarket bearings come only for the yellow tolerance 59.977 - 59.983 and this is where the big tolerance differences are with aftermarket bearings.
Massive thanks for the video, I haven't even watched it all but I love the detail you've gone into. You also mentioned about talking too much but I think if anyone has an issue they can fast forward, you've got a lot of knowledge that isnt easily available, so talk away haha! I hope you continue with in depth M57n2 engines, the only video I'm aware of with a complete rebuild is in Russian I think so this is great to have.
Thanks for the support! :)
Will do my best, about assembling this engine in the next episodes
Nice video, very instructive. Thank you.
If I have only one suggestion, is that the channel lack of visibility. it would be great that your video are splited into playlists, it's easier to follow and to find the next part of the assembly.
Thanks again for this informative video, the contain is great.
Cheers from France.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin!
I have included all the parts about this series in the description below
Best moment if the day! 5 Oscar
Please share the reference os the glyco kit. ❤
Hi mate do you have a video that demonstrates you removing or installing sump pan, I've stupidly put all torx bolts in same bag and not sure the layout for them
Very nice rebuilding video guys! Dutch regards, Nico.
Thanks Nico :)
306D5 main bearings tightening torque is not the one you mention. 50Nm + 90deg is for 306D3.
You are right actually. I haven't notice this, because all the other torque specs are all the same with the cast iron cylinder block. I guess I will need to change little bit the next episode. Still it is not the end of the world, the spec is 25nm+50nm+90deg which I did, after that undoing and 25nm+50nm+ two times 60 deg. Nice catch
Actually on a second thought, I'm almost sure that AutoData and HaynesPro was claiming that the torque spec should be 50+90deg. Still bmw tis should be more reliable source, but there is claiming that the bolts should be 12.9 strength and the bolts which I removed and installed were 10.9 ( if I remember right ), kind of misleading.
You will notice slightly better distribution of plastigauge. Better clearance. But Glyco is a solution just for top dimension crankshafts, I am always aiming towards reusing original bearings, if they look ok.
@@CompleteCHIPIasi Who doesn't like OEM. I have used Glyco on many M57 engines without any issue and with this clearance I'm sure that there will be no issue.
But I don't understand why there are so many problems, because this is considered to be the legendary m57 engine, there are many people saying that they're went over 1 milion km or have 6-700.000 km with original timing chain ? 🤔 Or the m57 tu2 is not that reliable as the 218 m57 tu? Great video, please answer 👃
Most of the time the problem is poor servicing, 30k kms oil change intervals.
you have good english. you make good work i wish in france i have a mechanic like you making a perfect engine. then i have no choice i am doing all by my self. are you in lituania ? continue your great videos i leanr always with you
Thanks Fraizer! I'm from Bulgaria
@@crank3646 haha little far to bring you my car in case of big problem haha... in sofia ? Varna ?
@@fraizer2600 You almost got it, Burgas :D
@@crank3646 Hello, i am from Romania, i own a 530 xd m57 2008, i would like to do a timming chain change, what would be the cost of labor for tht kind of work ( in euro) , whith parts included....?
@@stefanszel6631 Depends on many things. But if we stick only with changing the timing components with OEM parts and nothing more around the repair, something around ~ 1200 EUR.
Great serie on the m57 thanks, one question , how many km has this engine? .regards
Тази линия с която измерваш плоскоста на цилиндровия блок не е ли малко къса..Не трябва ли да е равна на дължината на блока?И как точно най -добре се мери плоскоста на блока,къде и в какви равнини?И може ли да се мери плоскоста без да се сваля блока?В момента моето БМВ с M57 D30 (306D5) двигател 210 киловата година на производство 08,06,2007 е на ремонт и искам да знам.Благодаря предварително.
Where is your garage based?
Why did the clearance change
Great videos. In your opinion which is the best version of the m57 engine?
For performance M57D30TÜ TOP, because it has cast iron cylinder block. For reliability they are pretty much the same. The older versions has solid camshafts which is much better choice. I prefer the aluminium cylinder block cuz is much more lighter and if the car is not abused all the time, it will not make any problems in long run. I hate diesel performance cars, so the only reason if I'm going to buy this engine is going to be for daily car. My daily is M57D30TU2 235 hp. With good servicing intervals, quality oils and filters, and if the car is not driven from an 20-25 years old wanna be gangsta, this engine is going to last a lot of mileages
@@crank3646 thanks for replying. I too have the same engine in my 08 e65 currently at 90k miles. Thanks to you I now understand my car much more and have decided to keep it for many years as my daily (I was going to get rid of it because of worry about too many electrical components and failures, now I realise some of them are separate things and my engine has always been good). I am going to follow all your advice about chain replacement and common failing parts, like that coolant flange pipe I never knew that could fail.
I came from motorcycles (in the mechanical way) and never looked at my car any more than basic servicing. Now you made me realise its not as complicated as I thought just everything is bigger and need some better tools. So thank you for the inspiration and keep up with the m57 videos! 👍👍 Im even having ideas to get a project m57 to learn and have fun 😂
Good Job as allways! You think will be possible to go back to ms41 and have a video of how to do the right tune to get the most power from m50 manifold swap?
Thanks! I have already a similar video about it. The difference is that, it is including S52 intake camshaft + M50NV camshaft, but the process is pretty much the same. Just check my older videos.
Bro are from Balkans, because your english sounds like mine 🤣
Браво. Иначе само със сгъстен въздух ли чистиш маслените магистрали. А проверихте ли тунела на блока дали е прав ?
Да има минимално измятане, в рамките на допустимото. Аз нямам с какво да го измеря, шлайфистите го мериха.
Hi Crank Is that a new workshop or did you refurbish the old one ? It looks very clean!!
haha it is just cleaned :D
@@crank3646 10/10 good job mate..looks like a new workshop from viewers side :D
Great video again! Keep up the good work!
Иначе да споделя и аз понеже веднъж сглабяхме такъв мотор, имахме и 2 колянови вала, стари и нови лагери, каквото и да слагахме все излизаше голяма хлабината, в норми, ама към по-лабавия край.
Относно гарнитурата на главата се мереше надстърчането на буталото от блока, ама нещо не схванах защо не се взема под внимание дали и колко е шлайфана главата?!?
Мерси :) Да по нататък и затова ще стане дума. Като цяло защото клапаните лежат на една основа с главата ( почти... ). Въпреки това аз я взимам под внимание, защото все пак не са като на JTD моторите, идеално равни с челото на главата. В следващите видеа ще видиш какво имам предвит, как клапаните са леееко потънали навътре в главата и въпреки това след шлайфа не са закачени.
Братле ако правиш и на български ще е много хубаво
Дай на български по добре!
Можеш ли да ми пратиш актуален номер за консултация
👌👌👌🙏🌹🇮🇳