I've loved the results of this shot at EI 80-100 developed in Ilfotec HC (HC-110 type developer). You can also get this film quite inexpensively repackaged as AristaEDU Ultra 100.
Hey guys! I love this film since my teenage years back in the 1980s, when it was my standard film (the alternative was ORWO NP20). I like to try different films, have a passion for FP4+, I also shoot occasionally APX100, but always come back to my dear Fomapan 100. I develop in FomadonR09/Rodinal 1+50, 20C, at 9 min. With revolutions once per minute.
I tried different B&W films but came back to Fomapan 100. It is good and cheap...i bulk load, it is even cheaper. I shoot at iso 50 and develop in Rodinal 8.5 min usually at 1/50. Had good results with stand Development as well. Moreover this film is easy to scan because it stays very flat. I like it a lot.
I use it and like it very much. My developer of choice for Foma 100 and for 400, it can be developed together, is 510 Pyro semi-stand 20 min - at 20C with minimal agitation. Less grain, micro contrast is improved and better middle tones. I have been shooting with Foma for many years in 35, 120 and 4x5, they are better in 120 or 4x5. Cheers mate
I rate Fomapan at 64 ASA in Rodinal 1:50. To my eyes this gives a classic black and white film look with just a little grain. Speed means slower shutter speeds or wider apertures, 1/125 at f4 to 5.6 in UK weather.
I totally agree with you about the Fomapan100 being an amazing emulsion. It has been one of my favourite films for the last four years. I do usually shoot it at 50, so I agree that the real speed is a bit lower than 100.
Hi Brian, interesting and informative video on this emulsion.👍🏻 I’m shooting the film at ISO 100 and 125, with decent results developing in FX55(1+9) for 9 & 12 minutes respectively. Fine grain, good tonal range and contrast. I also get pleasing results with Fomapan400Action film rated at 320. Best wishes and keep up the good work, Ian.
I use this film 90% of the time in 35mm, 120 and 4x5 formats. I have always got great results. 5.00 a roll vs. 9.00 a roll for Kodak etc. here in the states, the math is easy. I do use Kodak Tri-X for a 400 speed film, for some reason I don’t really care for Foma 400. I have used D-76 and Arista Developers and usually develop at 7 min. it gives me just enough highlights and shadows.
This is why i drop film off to get developed. Complicated, chemicals, need dark room. But it would be nice to save money. Just not sure how much your are really saving after buying everything and putting the time in
I bought all the “hard products” (tank, changing bag, beakers..) for $150 that I can keep using for decades. The “soft products” (chemicals) cost me 25 cents a roll now. You save a ton of money
Hello Brian . really informative and useful video . currently the fomapan is not available in my country but i really appreciate cheap films . i think one of the major reason that cause cost difference between cheap and expensive films is the film base that it seems slimmer and More vulnerable in this case and in my opinion if we take care about cleaning inside of camera To ensure the absence of annoying dusts and particles , gently load film in the reel and on rinse time then we get very good results . because i take a photo on the same roll in different contrast conditions( sunny, shade, indoor and flash photography )i set exposure 1/3 stop over box speed and develop it on box speed with Ilfosol S in 20/21°c and always i get pretty good results. Regards
I've loved the results of this shot at EI 80-100 developed in Ilfotec HC (HC-110 type developer). You can also get this film quite inexpensively repackaged as AristaEDU Ultra 100.
Hey guys! I love this film since my teenage years back in the 1980s, when it was my standard film (the alternative was ORWO NP20). I like to try different films, have a passion for FP4+, I also shoot occasionally APX100, but always come back to my dear Fomapan 100. I develop in FomadonR09/Rodinal 1+50, 20C, at 9 min. With revolutions once per minute.
Worthwhile information for someone like me just starting out with Fomapan 100. I am glad I stumbled upon this video. Thanks so much for posting.
I tried different B&W films but came back to Fomapan 100. It is good and cheap...i bulk load, it is even cheaper. I shoot at iso 50 and develop in Rodinal 8.5 min usually at 1/50. Had good results with stand Development as well. Moreover this film is easy to scan because it stays very flat. I like it a lot.
I use it and like it very much. My developer of choice for Foma 100 and for 400, it can be developed together, is 510 Pyro semi-stand 20 min - at 20C with minimal agitation. Less grain, micro contrast is improved and better middle tones. I have been shooting with Foma for many years in 35, 120 and 4x5, they are better in 120 or 4x5. Cheers mate
I rate Fomapan at 64 ASA in Rodinal 1:50. To my eyes this gives a classic black and white film look with just a little grain. Speed means slower shutter speeds or wider apertures, 1/125 at f4 to 5.6 in UK weather.
And for how long You develop? I am guessing that 1 to 50 ratio is stand or semi stand development
I totally agree with you about the Fomapan100 being an amazing emulsion. It has been one of my favourite films for the last four years. I do usually shoot it at 50, so I agree that the real speed is a bit lower than 100.
Hi Brian, interesting and informative video on this emulsion.👍🏻 I’m shooting the film at ISO 100 and 125, with decent results developing in FX55(1+9) for 9 & 12 minutes respectively. Fine grain, good tonal range and contrast. I also get pleasing results with Fomapan400Action film rated at 320. Best wishes and keep up the good work, Ian.
I often shoot Fomapan 100 at 400 and develop it in Kodak HC110 dilution B for 10 mins 30 seconds at 20 degrees C. I find it works great. 👍
Thanks Brian! One of these days, I’ll make it to Tel Aviv.
Im washing it @ homebrew PyrocatHD 1:1:100 for 12 min. Does not have creaminess of fp4, but its joy film.
I'll be trying it with Adox Atomal 49 soon ... let ya know how it turns out !!!
Fomapan/Arista 100 might become my favourite stock, wasn't the greatest fan of neither Foma 200 nor 400, but 100, oh boy, it's beautiful.
Like it in 120. Not used it in 35mm. Find its at least box speed in xtol-r unlike the 200 and 400.
I use this film 90% of the time in 35mm, 120 and 4x5 formats. I have always got great results. 5.00 a roll vs. 9.00 a roll for Kodak etc. here in the states, the math is easy. I do use Kodak Tri-X for a 400 speed film, for some reason I don’t really care for Foma 400.
I have used D-76 and Arista Developers and usually develop at 7 min. it gives me just enough highlights and shadows.
This is why i drop film off to get developed. Complicated, chemicals, need dark room.
But it would be nice to save money. Just not sure how much your are really saving after buying everything and putting the time in
I bought all the “hard products” (tank, changing bag, beakers..) for $150 that I can keep using for decades. The “soft products” (chemicals) cost me 25 cents a roll now. You save a ton of money
@@jst7714 what are you using to get them scanned for digital / prints?
@@itsallminor6133 I actually got a compact enlarger for $50 and print at home in the bathroom
Great video! Have you also tried the Foma company's own developers?
No, I haven't. Is there one that you recommend?
@@BriansPhotoShow foma excel, xtol copy.good stuff
Hello Brian .
really informative and useful video . currently the fomapan is not available in my country but i really appreciate cheap films . i think one of the major reason that cause cost difference between cheap and expensive films is the film base that it seems slimmer and More vulnerable in this case and in my opinion if we take care about cleaning inside of camera To ensure the absence of annoying dusts and particles , gently load film in the reel and on rinse time then we get very good results .
because i take a photo on the same roll in different contrast conditions( sunny, shade, indoor and flash photography )i set exposure 1/3 stop over box speed and develop it on box speed with Ilfosol S in 20/21°c and always i get pretty good results.
Regards