I used to be a water pump engineer and I've done CFD analysis for OEM's. A clutch bleeder kit is the best way because it flushes all the old fluid out and replaces with 100% new. Pedal feels firmer and your seal are operating in clean fluid. It's not so easy to Install on a C5. But a clutch bleeder kit and flushed every 10k miles. You'll be AMAZED at how much black bits come out. Especially the first time. I have a 04Z06 and do this once a yr (about 5k miles) and after 5yrs I still get black-ish fluid and hard bits out every time I do it. IMO GM should have included a easy way to flush from the factory.
@@kfh1 Yes... if I could suggest to any Manual trans newb... it would to be a clutch bleeder as your very first "MOD". A firm and clean clutch is WAAAY more important that anything else.
@@WarriorsPhoto 5yrs on and I have full exhaust, tuned, CAI, and a lot of little stuff. IMO a remote bleeder is still #1 on my list for "mods". btw, if you have more than 50k miles... pull the intake and clean it and new gaskets as it'll make adding the bleeder hose easier. Shalom
Thanks, Lyle! I didn’t even know Luk made the OEM clutch master cylinder for the C5. Make sense now since they were the OEM supplier for the clutch. Every C5 forum out there tells you to use the Tick regardless of how you use your C5, but I think I’ll use the Luk instead.
I literally just had my master cylinder , slave cylinder and clutch replaced when my master went out on my 2001 C5 Base. Car only has 65K miles on it but I assume the previous owner never ever bled his clutch. I went with a Tick Master an OEM Slave and an LS7 Clutch/Steel Flywheel. Car runs great now and now that I have a remote bleeder I'll be bleeding the clutch every 2 oil changes. Great vid Lyle !
Exactly the problem I am having in my C5. My aunt had the same problem and said she just got it fixed, they changed the master cylinder and then I see this video. Awesome. She paid around $250. Getting mine done next.
Perfect topic Lyle. I just had the clutch master cylinder replaced by a Corvette specialist and the pedal is sticking again. They told me they replaced the fluid as well. It was NOT a GM part. They were on back order at the time
Just had this issue last week and fixed it by replacing the damaged master cylinder with a Tick performance master cylinder. The whole job was easy apart from adjusting the pedal which is very tedious and takes a bunch of tinkering to get it right. The Tick unit is slightly more aggressive but still fine to daily drive, now just need a MGW shifter to have the perfect combo!
About two years ago, my clutch pedal would stay down on the floor. I changed the fluid using the ranger method but it wasn't long until it was nasty again, even after repeating several times. I concluded that the master cylinder rubber was shot and the debris contaminating the fluid. After research, I purchased a Tick master cylinder, and it was perhaps the best mod I have ever installed. I adjusted the fiction point to much closer to the the floor than stock distance and it feels so much more responsive. Now I feel like I have a true sports car. (also, get a short throw shifter while you are at it.) The car should have come that way.
I had my gearbox in my C5 give up at 115,000 miles. Rebuilt it and while at it changed all the seals, bearings, etc. sold it at 165,000 for $27,000. It is over 200,000 miles and going well. Beautiful car!
I replaced my clutch master cylinder in 2009 C 6 . Filled the bowl up with DOT 4 and started pumping the clutch pedal After about a half dozen pumps the pedal wouldn't go back down at all . Totally stuck at top and will not budge. Even tried pushing it down with my foot and wouldn't budge Messing with my mind.
that's a fine charity, think Ill go for it. pedal return isn't my problem, pedal effort is. I've got a worn left knee from teen aged years in English sports cars with primitive clutches that took a lot of pedal effort , and I shifted a lot.
I had a speed bleeder installed along with a new slave cylinder when I had my clutch replaced on my C6... No more 'ranger method' required to keep the fluid clean!!!
It would also be good to note that if you are already down there you should install a remote bleeder on the slave cylinder. Bleeding the clutch is the most time consuming part of changing the master cylinder. Plus it makes it much easier to do those fluid changes later.
The remote bleeder cannot be installed without removing the torque tube and exhaust and is a much bigger job none of which is required when replacing the master cylinder which connects to the slave via an easy to reach line up front under the car.
Lyle, great video. Ironically this is exactly why my Corvette is going into the shop this weekend. I think my clutch system is leaking though. 😢😅😢 I will find out soon enough. Oh and I hope my Corvette brothers will pray 🙏 for my wallet’s 💳 recovery. ❤️🩹 😂 🤣 🤪
I just came across your video because my 2008 C6 recently developed the same issue. I am the 3rd owner and looked back through the vehicle history on Car Fax and it appears this part was replaced in 2010 at 19k miles and again in 2020 with 42k miles. We have around 53k on it now. So appears that this part wears out quite frequently. Is this something I can replace in my driveway or do I need to take it to a repair shop?
I have a c6 & my pedal just stuck to the floor. Bought a master & will be doing it when i get the part but my question is if i replace the master will that let air into the system causing me to have to take everything apart just to bleed or add a remote bleeder line or will i be ok replacing the master & changing the fluid afterwards?
Mine just started to do it on my 02 z06 with 40k mile. I took it to a shop in Tampa and they want to replace the master and slave cylinder…which they quoted 9 hours of labor 😮. Do I have to replace both, or can I just do the master?
Unless there is actual fluid loss from the slave cylinder, just have them do the master first and then test drive it. If it still isn’t working, then consider doing the slave/ torque tube / rear main seal / clutch all in one go. It all has to come out to access the slave cylinder anyway.
I'll have more in stock on Monday. If you have entered your email on the item page on our website, you will be notified as soon as they hit the shelf. Lyle :)
Very good explanation of a problem that most corvette owners will have a sometime or other. Keep up the good work.
I used to be a water pump engineer and I've done CFD analysis for OEM's.
A clutch bleeder kit is the best way because it flushes all the old fluid out and replaces with 100% new. Pedal feels firmer and your seal are operating in clean fluid.
It's not so easy to Install on a C5. But a clutch bleeder kit and flushed every 10k miles. You'll be AMAZED at how much black bits come out. Especially the first time.
I have a 04Z06 and do this once a yr (about 5k miles) and after 5yrs I still get black-ish fluid and hard bits out every time I do it.
IMO GM should have included a easy way to flush from the factory.
I had a speed bleeder installed on my C6 when it was all apart for a new clutch, it's definitely the way to go!!!
@@kfh1 Yes... if I could suggest to any Manual trans newb... it would to be a clutch bleeder as your very first "MOD".
A firm and clean clutch is WAAAY more important that anything else.
It’s GM that’s why they didn’t add it. 😂😅😂
Jokes aside.
This is a mod I am looking forward to performing ASAP.
@@WarriorsPhoto 5yrs on and I have full exhaust, tuned, CAI, and a lot of little stuff. IMO a remote bleeder is still #1 on my list for "mods".
btw, if you have more than 50k miles... pull the intake and clean it and new gaskets as it'll make adding the bleeder hose easier.
Shalom
@@wydopnthrtl Appreciate your input and Shalom.
Thanks, Lyle! I didn’t even know Luk made the OEM clutch master cylinder for the C5. Make sense now since they were the OEM supplier for the clutch. Every C5 forum out there tells you to use the Tick regardless of how you use your C5, but I think I’ll use the Luk instead.
I literally just had my master cylinder , slave cylinder and clutch replaced when my master went out on my 2001 C5 Base. Car only has 65K miles on it but I assume the previous owner never ever bled his clutch. I went with a Tick Master an OEM Slave and an LS7 Clutch/Steel Flywheel. Car runs great now and now that I have a remote bleeder I'll be bleeding the clutch every 2 oil changes. Great vid Lyle !
Exactly the problem I am having in my C5. My aunt had the same problem and said she just got it fixed, they changed the master cylinder and then I see this video. Awesome. She paid around $250. Getting mine done next.
Perfect topic Lyle. I just had the clutch master cylinder replaced by a Corvette specialist and the pedal is sticking again. They told me they replaced the fluid as well. It was NOT a GM part. They were on back order at the time
Just had this issue last week and fixed it by replacing the damaged master cylinder with a Tick performance master cylinder. The whole job was easy apart from adjusting the pedal which is very tedious and takes a bunch of tinkering to get it right. The Tick unit is slightly more aggressive but still fine to daily drive, now just need a MGW shifter to have the perfect combo!
About two years ago, my clutch pedal would stay down on the floor. I changed the fluid using the ranger method but it wasn't long until it was nasty again, even after repeating several times. I concluded that the master cylinder rubber was shot and the debris contaminating the fluid. After research, I purchased a Tick master cylinder, and it was perhaps the best mod I have ever installed. I adjusted the fiction point to much closer to the the floor than stock distance and it feels so much more responsive. Now I feel like I have a true sports car. (also, get a short throw shifter while you are at it.) The car should have come that way.
Great to see you last week in sunny Sarasota! Thanks for fixing me and my daughter up with the Black book and a tour! She has dibs on my C7 😂
I had my gearbox in my C5 give up at 115,000 miles. Rebuilt it and while at it changed all the seals, bearings, etc. sold it at 165,000 for $27,000. It is over 200,000 miles and going well. Beautiful car!
dude got scammed
I replaced my clutch master cylinder in 2009 C 6 . Filled the bowl up with DOT 4 and started pumping the clutch pedal After about a half dozen pumps the pedal wouldn't go back down at all . Totally stuck at top and will not budge. Even tried pushing it down with my foot and wouldn't budge Messing with my mind.
that's a fine charity, think Ill go for it. pedal return isn't my problem, pedal effort is. I've got a worn left knee from teen aged years in English sports cars with primitive clutches that took a lot of pedal effort , and I shifted a lot.
I had a speed bleeder installed along with a new slave cylinder when I had my clutch replaced on my C6... No more 'ranger method' required to keep the fluid clean!!!
Well done Lyle
good information Lyle. Got my shirt & black book bundle thanks again!
It would also be good to note that if you are already down there you should install a remote bleeder on the slave cylinder. Bleeding the clutch is the most time consuming part of changing the master cylinder. Plus it makes it much easier to do those fluid changes later.
The remote bleeder cannot be installed without removing the torque tube and exhaust and is a much bigger job none of which is required when replacing the master cylinder which connects to the slave via an easy to reach line up front under the car.
Lyle, great video.
Ironically this is exactly why my Corvette is going into the shop this weekend. I think my clutch system is leaking though. 😢😅😢
I will find out soon enough.
Oh and I hope my Corvette brothers will pray 🙏 for my wallet’s 💳 recovery. ❤️🩹
😂 🤣 🤪
Good information 👍 😊
Informative Lyle
Thanks for the Black Book from Sweden
Instead of the Ranger method I simply suck the old fluid out of the reservoir once a month. Keeps looking pretty good.
Lyle. Need some help can’t figure out how to replace the hand brake cable. Do you have a video anywhere?
I just came across your video because my 2008 C6 recently developed the same issue. I am the 3rd owner and looked back through the vehicle history on Car Fax and it appears this part was replaced in 2010 at 19k miles and again in 2020 with 42k miles. We have around 53k on it now. So appears that this part wears out quite frequently. Is this something I can replace in my driveway or do I need to take it to a repair shop?
I have a c6 & my pedal just stuck to the floor. Bought a master & will be doing it when i get the part but my question is if i replace the master will that let air into the system causing me to have to take everything apart just to bleed or add a remote bleeder line or will i be ok replacing the master & changing the fluid afterwards?
Mine just started to do it on my 02 z06 with 40k mile. I took it to a shop in Tampa and they want to replace the master and slave cylinder…which they quoted 9 hours of labor 😮. Do I have to replace both, or can I just do the master?
Unless there is actual fluid loss from the slave cylinder, just have them do the master first and then test drive it. If it still isn’t working, then consider doing the slave/ torque tube / rear main seal / clutch all in one go. It all has to come out to access the slave cylinder anyway.
Any idea when the c5 rear main seal cover upgrade will be back in stock?
I'll have more in stock on Monday. If you have entered your email on the item page on our website, you will be notified as soon as they hit the shelf. Lyle :)
Happened to me on my 2010 C6.
Mine gets hard and then sticks to floor a few seconds later its fine and not all the time. Has a tick master but is like 6 or 7 years old