Thanks Michael, just downloaded the plans. Not that they were so much needed as you absolutely deserve the small payment for taking the trouble to share your great sled with us all.
Michael- Broke out your picture frame jig for some Xmas presents. Of course I started with huge posters for a friend instead of some small frames😊. Really appreciate your great videos and since I am a WA native from Kitsap Peninsula love seeing local makers especially when you stop to watch the rain. Happy Holidays!
Great video, did you know you can cut aluminum with your sawstop. There is a bypass mode that I've used when I don't want the risk the safety mechanism firing. Basically all you have to do is turn the key and hold it for 3 seconds, the saw will blink. One thing to know is you have to enter the bypass mode for each cut. Check out the manual to find the exact steps.
Great sled man! I have resisted making frames for so long but it seems I can resist no longer! Thanks for putting this up! Hope to see you at Maker Camp!
Will be making this this weekend. I have a small ryobi jobsite table saw. It's my first one so my sled will be much smaller but I am super excited and appreciate you taking the time to share. Subscribed!
I like it, but have a question about the 45 degree stop block. Would it be better with a 90 degree? That way the tip has a hard stop. Yes, you would lose the ease of the ruler scale but eliminate any slop of the two 45’s shifting.
The problem I ran into was cutting the frame material on edge...the frame is balancing on edge...any wobble or tilt resulted in a miter cut that was not 90 degrees to the frame edge. I am going to add a block to support the face and keep the material at 90...maybe more tension on the feather boards would solve this? Great video!!!!!!!
Fantastic jig and video. Just finished mine and the first test frame is flawless. I just wish I paid more attention as to which side the ruler should overhang as my ruler now reads in the wrong direction. Thanks!
Nice, love the feather-boards. One thought: the mitre slot with a speed square to get the 45 angle. My thought is that the mitre slot is the reference point not the saw table. Again, great vid and upgrades that Iwill be making pronto!
Nice sled! Wish I watched this two weeks ago because I *just* made a new miter sled to replace my old one. Like your use of the aluminum scale and the wooden zero clearance block. My main issue with my old sled was the weight/balance issue that you mentioned also.
This sled is awesome but for those who don’t make enough frames to justify it here’s a tip. Remember that the difference between the inside dimension of a frame and the outside dimension is exactly twice the width of the front facing material. This is obvious when you think about it as there is exactly one board on each side of the inside space. This means all you have to do to work with outside dimensions instead of inside is add twice the width of the board to your desired inside dimension. Then do all your work with the outside dimension since that’s way easier to do unless you have this sled.
Thanks! On the Sawstop, you have to disable that switch every time you turn on the saw. I'd be worried I'd forget one time and ruin my blade and cartridge
@@MichaelAlm I've done that a fair number of times on my sawstop, and I was worried about the same thing. However, I found that cutting aluminum is so out of the ordinary that it serves as it's own reminder to put the saw in bypass mode.
Having watched this AND David Piccuto's updated jig, I'm going to make mine with a mix of the two designs (I like David's simple use of toggle clamps to hold the stop block in place), but things like the replaceable zero clearance insert on your design is cool too
Nice video. It was nice meeting you at WBC last year and enjoyed your class. Hope to see you again this year. In any event, looking at building a picture frame sled for some recent efforts in my shop. What changes - if any - would you make now that you have used it or modified it in the last 4 years. Saw Dave Pochutto (Make Something) first and then yours. They are similar but he mentioned he was switching to 3/4" ply because the 1/2" ply started separating across the kerf cut. He also indicated he used cheap plywood originally. Are yo happy with the 1/2" plywood or would you recommend going to 3/4" which obviously will be heavier?
Excellent video and plans (purchased them to support you though I agree with many others tht your video is so good you can get by without)! Curious if you see any reason against adhering 1/2” plywood under the ruler as opposed to the 1/4”? Possibly help with taller framing stock by raising the reference edge a bit.
Top class jig! I used Picciuto's design as well a few years ago, (but did it in a cheap way cos I'm cheap 😄), one change I made after using was I ended up dropping a block behind the kerf, and then screwed an offcut of clear acrylic on it, that way I can still see, but don't have to worry that the ends of my mitres are going to fly into my face. Might be handy here too.
Great video as many others have suggested. As you mention, the weight is over the back of the sled which is also in the way for longer frames. How do you think it would work if the plan was inverted and rotated such that the long boards would rest over the larger portion of the table top and off to the left of the blade?
Would using a large aluminum framing square as opposed to the straight aluminum ruler be a good idea? In that case, you could mount the ruler and then do the kerf cut afterwards? 🤔
Thanks for this video and the plans, Michael. I made the jig. However, having used three different squares to gain the 90 degrees between the rules on the sled, I’m still getting minute gaps at frame corners. Tried to send a photo but not allowed on Comments post. Do you have any suggestions about truing the miter cuts? How can I make micro adjustments and not have to make a new sled?
Like the sled. I'll have to do one of these soon to make some holiday gifts. Not sure why you couldn't make the ruler cuts with the SawStop, though. You can disengage the safety mechanism and cut the aluminum without activating the brake.
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe he doesn't know how to enable the bypass mode? The one advantage to doing it the way he did is that he was able to cut the ruler a little short and so that he could put in the wood insert for zero clearance which will ensure that he doesn't accidentally trigger the brake when using the sled.
Love your frame sled! It is near the top of my list of shop projects. The 48” ruler that you use.. etched increment markings or painted? Brand? Always enjoy your self deprecating humor. I appreciate someone who does is only half full of himself! So, so Seattle. Go Sounders! Dan Puyallup
I would not make the stop block at the angle you did (the shuttle) - the problem is now the angle of the miter on the piece you have cut, can "slide up" the angle on your stop block. It's better IMO to have a stop block that is flat, that the "point" of the work piece can but against - this is more accurate too since it's the "point" that you want to measure the length from. The "angle" of the stop block should face the opposite way as how you have it now, OR just be straight across..
Thank you for an awesome video. I am first building a woodworking station for my garage. I am very active in photography and want to build my own frames for family and friends..
Why does the sled base have to be at 45* . As long as you have the aluminium rules at 90 and pointing to the blade with 45 on each side, will this not be ok?
Almost finished building mine. First project I’ve ever done. Can’t find regular double sided tape at the big name stores. This is driving me a little crazy. Found a fiberglass carpet tape, supposed to be non conductive but I’m worried it might activate the sawstop based on an online comment.
Hi there Michael -thanks for this video. I purchased your plans, but the detail is definitely in the video instead. One question I have - what's the reason for the epoxy? Could I use a CA glue and accelerator? or spray adhesive for wood? thanks for your help!
Thanks for picking up the plans! I don't recommend CA glue. It will not hold over time. The only thing that I know that will reliably hold metal to wood is epoxy. Hope that helps!
Awesome sled Michael! I will definitely take a stab at this.. and appreciate learning subtle techniques and ideas I can apply to other sleds to add to functionality and ease of use, with that Rockler/T hardware, the shuttle, using aluminum, leather, zero clearence inserts etc. gets my mind going!
Will be making my first frames this year. What is the advantage of building one of these sleds vs using a miter saw with a stop? One advantage I see is the built-in measuring. Are there others?
This is great. I made a miter frame jig for my last table saw and I haven't done one for my current. I was going to do Davids version but I like your updates. I really like the featherboards and the t nut head to keep it locked into place.
I saw that video, then I saw another video on making an extension bed that was much easier. Does it go on and off as easy? No. Do I ever want to take it off again? Also no
Michael, great sled. What is the maximum thickness the featherboards will allow against the ruler? I like to make frames that are potentially 1-1/2" wide. Will your featherboards allow that width of stock?
Thanks! The feather boards are only designed for thin frame stock 3/4" or less, but I've found that the wider frame stock is more stable and doesn't need them. The feather boards can easily be removed.
Nice work but… floating the guides saves measuring but necessitates that the rabbet is always the same size. Not flexible. I used aluminum angle on mine mounted on deck. Measure once, cut twice.
Most miter saws are not accurate. I've found that is a huge waste of time playing around with testing angles to approach true 45 degrees, and this has to be redone every time. Table saw jig solves this problem.
Awesome video! I love how, unlike SO MANY woodworking TH-camrs, you always give credit every time you do something that you learned from another TH-camr. Jon Peters veneer, David P's sled... it's cool that you tip the hat. A lot of folks just try to pretend that their video on [ insert topic ] just came to them, as if from a dream. For those of us, like myself, who watch an embarrassing amount of TH-cam... we always know. Ha! I do have a question though... HORWEEN LEATHER!?!? You glued down Horween leather to make a jig? Isn't that kinda like cutting up a hand woven silk gown to use as a bath mat? Ha! All jokes aside... I have been trying to find out where I can buy small amounts of horween leather for years. You always have to buy huge sides and/or spend big $$$. Where did you get those little bits?
Hahaha! Thanks Michael. Honestly I had no idea is was really nice leather. I bought a big bag of leather scraps from a materials coop in Portland. The place is called SCRAP and I highly recommend it.
Just to be clear: Once you've made the sled,, can you cut frame pieces without putting the Sawstop into bypass mode?. That is, are the aluminum fences far enough back from the blade that it won't trigger the Sawstop brake?
I really like this and I saw just last night where the original concept for this sled started from and as far as jigs go, this is the number one reason I wanted to own a table saw which I have one now but I still need to build my first cross cut sled and I appreciate the amount of innovation that went into this picture framing sled. I also noticed that the feather boards help to keep the wood pressed against the ruler and this to me looks like a safe sled to use for cutting. I do however want to cut 36” x 24” frames and wondered what it would take to make a sled for frames that big.
Great video, I'm using the plans to build the jig myself! Important question, though, is the one inch from the pre-cut kerf measured from the center of the kerf, or from the edge of the kerf?
You can bypass the sawstop safety feature. Turn and hold key, red flash, (don’t let go of key) start saw, red flash let key go. The green light should be blinking at this point and you now know you can cut conductive materials at this point. Sorry if someone already mentioned this. I didn’t want to look through all the comments. Careful when you do this... you can cut hot dogs and fingers at this point.
True, but you have to keep the saw blade running. It’s a lot of steps to go through every time you turn the saw on, and the one time I forget it’ll really suck.
I purchased your plans for both the frame sled and the spline jig, thank you! The frame sled plans do not show how long the initial cut into the sled should be. Does it matter how long or short it is? Thank you again.
Effective design for repetitive cuts. Toggle clamps to replace featherboards would not limit the width of frame stock. Maybe a saw tune up and a different blade would reduce the burning. Just saying. My OCD goes into overdrive when I see those brown marks.
As he mentioned early in the video, he placed the rule 4” from the edge, thus accepting up to that width of frame stock. That’s about the same as I did on an older version of this jig. However, I’ve been able to cut even wider material on mine.
hey Michael (or anyone who sees this comment), I don't know if you will see this. I got your plan on your website and made the sled. It seems to be working really well, stoked. But my next project is doing frames that are deeper than what my table saw and this jig allow me to cut (using a 8.5in table saw and I need to cut a frame that is 2.75in deep, and I can cut like 1.5in now). Any "simple" trick to do that? I'm thinking of flipping the frame, but I'm not sure about how precise I can be then.. thanks! (also, I don't have a miter saw..)
Thanks Michael, just downloaded the plans. Not that they were so much needed as you absolutely deserve the small payment for taking the trouble to share your great sled with us all.
Thanks 😁
Built this sled and now have quality picture frame joints. Thanks for the video.
I love that you left your feather board error in - it gives some hope to the rest of us for whom that's a normal part of every build! :-)
Michael- Broke out your picture frame jig for some Xmas presents. Of course I started with huge posters for a friend instead of some small frames😊. Really appreciate your great videos and since I am a WA native from Kitsap Peninsula love seeing local makers especially when you stop to watch the rain. Happy Holidays!
Great job. I appreciate that you didn't edit out your mistakes.
Great video, did you know you can cut aluminum with your sawstop. There is a bypass mode that I've used when I don't want the risk the safety mechanism firing. Basically all you have to do is turn the key and hold it for 3 seconds, the saw will blink. One thing to know is you have to enter the bypass mode for each cut. Check out the manual to find the exact steps.
Thanks!
Great sled man! I have resisted making frames for so long but it seems I can resist no longer! Thanks for putting this up! Hope to see you at Maker Camp!
Nice space. I like that you haven’t gone overboard on expensive tools. Very relatable to us hobbyists. Thanks for the video.
Will be making this this weekend. I have a small ryobi jobsite table saw. It's my first one so my sled will be much smaller but I am super excited and appreciate you taking the time to share. Subscribed!
This has everything on it to make every picture frame I cam think of, thank you
One of the best jig making videos I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing and I’m gonna attempt to reproduce this jig. Thanks for sharing!
I like it, but have a question about the 45 degree stop block. Would it be better with a 90 degree? That way the tip has a hard stop. Yes, you would lose the ease of the ruler scale but eliminate any slop of the two 45’s shifting.
The problem I ran into was cutting the frame material on edge...the frame is balancing on edge...any wobble or tilt resulted in a miter cut that was not 90 degrees to the frame edge. I am going to add a block to support the face and keep the material at 90...maybe more tension on the feather boards would solve this? Great video!!!!!!!
Fantastic jig and video. Just finished mine and the first test frame is flawless. I just wish I paid more attention as to which side the ruler should overhang as my ruler now reads in the wrong direction. Thanks!
Nice, love the feather-boards. One thought: the mitre slot with a speed square to get the 45 angle. My thought is that the mitre slot is the reference point not the saw table. Again, great vid and upgrades that Iwill be making pronto!
Nice sled! Wish I watched this two weeks ago because I *just* made a new miter sled to replace my old one. Like your use of the aluminum scale and the wooden zero clearance block. My main issue with my old sled was the weight/balance issue that you mentioned also.
A nice jig I make quite a lot of frames and find my second hand MORSO frame cutter (£185) makes the job really easy.
That is the best-looking miter sled I have seen. I have tried several but never kept them around.
Excellent idea for your miter sled specifically for the function you designed it for, picture frames.
Very nice vid., thank you.
From Missouri
Very cool. Thanks to Jay Bates for recommending your video.
This sled is awesome but for those who don’t make enough frames to justify it here’s a tip.
Remember that the difference between the inside dimension of a frame and the outside dimension is exactly twice the width of the front facing material. This is obvious when you think about it as there is exactly one board on each side of the inside space.
This means all you have to do to work with outside dimensions instead of inside is add twice the width of the board to your desired inside dimension. Then do all your work with the outside dimension since that’s way easier to do unless you have this sled.
Very cool. Btw, there is an easy way to temporarily disable the sawstop from triggering on metal or very wet wood. Useful for things like this.
"Disable it" is the first thing I thought when he said that.
Thanks! On the Sawstop, you have to disable that switch every time you turn on the saw. I'd be worried I'd forget one time and ruin my blade and cartridge
@@MichaelAlm I've done that a fair number of times on my sawstop, and I was worried about the same thing. However, I found that cutting aluminum is so out of the ordinary that it serves as it's own reminder to put the saw in bypass mode.
@@MichaelAlm I think he meant you could use bypass to do the couple of cuts on the ruler itself (2?) making the jig.
i think the transparent plywood in a picture frame in patterns like you do would be awesome, please do a video for us, THANKS Ken!
Subscribed!
Ok, I am going to order plans. Thanks Michael.
"Blue Tape Method" has been around long before Blue Tape. I think I may build one of these thanks for the information.
"just rotate that board overrrrr, and I messed up" 😂😂 Great video..definitely got a new subscriber. Thanks for the great content!!
🤷🏼♂️
Having watched this AND David Piccuto's updated jig, I'm going to make mine with a mix of the two designs (I like David's simple use of toggle clamps to hold the stop block in place), but things like the replaceable zero clearance insert on your design is cool too
Same here. I like David's toggle design better for the stop block but Michael's overall approach better.
I like the addition of the feather boards, I might need to do that too mine. 👍
Nice video. It was nice meeting you at WBC last year and enjoyed your class. Hope to see you again this year. In any event, looking at building a picture frame sled for some recent efforts in my shop. What changes - if any - would you make now that you have used it or modified it in the last 4 years.
Saw Dave Pochutto (Make Something) first and then yours. They are similar but he mentioned he was switching to 3/4" ply because the 1/2" ply started separating across the kerf cut. He also indicated he used cheap plywood originally. Are yo happy with the 1/2" plywood or would you recommend going to 3/4" which obviously will be heavier?
Just making sure that the double stick tape on the zero clearance insert won’t set off the saw stop
Excellent video and plans (purchased them to support you though I agree with many others tht your video is so good you can get by without)! Curious if you see any reason against adhering 1/2” plywood under the ruler as opposed to the 1/4”? Possibly help with taller framing stock by raising the reference edge a bit.
you changed my life bro.
BRILLIANT is the word bud.
Top class jig! I used Picciuto's design as well a few years ago, (but did it in a cheap way cos I'm cheap 😄), one change I made after using was I ended up dropping a block behind the kerf, and then screwed an offcut of clear acrylic on it, that way I can still see, but don't have to worry that the ends of my mitres are going to fly into my face. Might be handy here too.
Sou brasileiro e acho seu trabalho maravilhoso,vejo todos os vídeos.
Great video as many others have suggested. As you mention, the weight is over the back of the sled which is also in the way for longer frames. How do you think it would work if the plan was inverted and rotated such that the long boards would rest over the larger portion of the table top and off to the left of the blade?
Would using a large aluminum framing square as opposed to the straight aluminum ruler be a good idea? In that case, you could mount the ruler and then do the kerf cut afterwards? 🤔
Another woodworker did it an is brilliant
Thanks for this video and the plans, Michael. I made the jig. However, having used three different squares to gain the 90 degrees between the rules on the sled, I’m still getting minute gaps at frame corners. Tried to send a photo but not allowed on Comments post.
Do you have any suggestions about truing the miter cuts? How can I make micro adjustments and not have to make a new sled?
Like the sled. I'll have to do one of these soon to make some holiday gifts.
Not sure why you couldn't make the ruler cuts with the SawStop, though. You can disengage the safety mechanism and cut the aluminum without activating the brake.
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe he doesn't know how to enable the bypass mode? The one advantage to doing it the way he did is that he was able to cut the ruler a little short and so that he could put in the wood insert for zero clearance which will ensure that he doesn't accidentally trigger the brake when using the sled.
@@TheNateLion I'd be surprised if he didn't know what the key is for, if for no other reason than curiosity. Good point on the cutting short, tho.
any thoughts on alterations to this jig to make it work while making floating canvas frames? maybe a vertical zero clearance insert?
Love your frame sled! It is near the top of my list of shop projects. The 48” ruler that you use.. etched increment markings or painted? Brand? Always enjoy your self deprecating humor. I appreciate someone who does is only half full of himself! So, so Seattle.
Go Sounders!
Dan
Puyallup
I would not make the stop block at the angle you did (the shuttle) - the problem is now the angle of the miter on the piece you have cut, can "slide up" the angle on your stop block. It's better IMO to have a stop block that is flat, that the "point" of the work piece can but against - this is more accurate too since it's the "point" that you want to measure the length from. The "angle" of the stop block should face the opposite way as how you have it now, OR just be straight across..
Its a great sled I too made one a while back, but I like the additions you've made... might be time to redo my old sled.
Very good, well explained too. Thanks. 👍🙂🏴
Thank you for an awesome video. I am first building a woodworking station for my garage. I am very active in photography and want to build my own frames for family and friends..
Super interesting. Well made high quality video. Thank you for your time and work.
Why does the sled base have to be at 45* . As long as you have the aluminium rules at 90 and pointing to the blade with 45 on each side, will this not be ok?
Could you shortcut the front end of this process a little bit by starting with a 24-in aluminum square?
good workshop .
That was really informative and innovative. Thank you.
Great video!
Will a slightly warped table saw blade cause a bad miter? I just bought a new one today and still has a slight wobble… the arbor is good…
Almost finished building mine. First project I’ve ever done. Can’t find regular double sided tape at the big name stores. This is driving me a little crazy. Found a fiberglass carpet tape, supposed to be non conductive but I’m worried it might activate the sawstop based on an online comment.
Top effort Michael, I'll definitely have a crack at building one, Thanks from, Aussie land.
Hi there Michael -thanks for this video. I purchased your plans, but the detail is definitely in the video instead. One question I have - what's the reason for the epoxy? Could I use a CA glue and accelerator? or spray adhesive for wood? thanks for your help!
Thanks for picking up the plans! I don't recommend CA glue. It will not hold over time. The only thing that I know that will reliably hold metal to wood is epoxy. Hope that helps!
thanks so much!@@MichaelAlm
Awesome sled Michael! I will definitely take a stab at this.. and appreciate learning subtle techniques and ideas I can apply to other sleds to add to functionality and ease of use, with that Rockler/T hardware, the shuttle, using aluminum, leather, zero clearence inserts etc. gets my mind going!
Will be making my first frames this year. What is the advantage of building one of these sleds vs using a miter saw with a stop? One advantage I see is the built-in measuring. Are there others?
Can't you deactivate the SawStop sensing feature if needed? I thought there was a button for that on the control?
This is great. I made a miter frame jig for my last table saw and I haven't done one for my current. I was going to do Davids version but I like your updates. I really like the featherboards and the t nut head to keep it locked into place.
Pm pm
Wont the washer you make for the front of the t slot bars not scratch up the t-slot over time?
Nicely done video.
You need Izzy Swan's new clamp on infeed table! Solves tippy sleds completely!
Haven't seen that one! I'll have to check it out
@@MichaelAlm th-cam.com/video/RZmbZLZLrb8/w-d-xo.html
I saw that video, then I saw another video on making an extension bed that was much easier. Does it go on and off as easy? No. Do I ever want to take it off again? Also no
朋21
@@jdhannan Izzy's goes on and off in seconds. Link to that other video?
Well, you just put another item on my to-build list. Thanks for the great video!
Michael, great sled. What is the maximum thickness the featherboards will allow against the ruler? I like to make frames that are potentially 1-1/2" wide. Will your featherboards allow that width of stock?
Thanks! The feather boards are only designed for thin frame stock 3/4" or less, but I've found that the wider frame stock is more stable and doesn't need them. The feather boards can easily be removed.
Would you recommend using this jig for at floating frames aswell? Awesome video btw, really great build :)
I love how a week after this was posted David Piccuto updated his sled. I like your improvements better, however.
I find that when making a flat cut the rabbit edge against the fence negates the ID accuracy
really great video!!!
Without a Sawstop, you wouldn't need the zero clearance block because you'd be cutting the aluminum directly on the tablesaw right?
Thank you, Michael. Great video - I will make one tomorrow.
i might build one that's goth the full 48 to build larger frames
good job, Michael your the plywood wizard right? have you tried the amazing transparent plywood?
Nice work but… floating the guides saves measuring but necessitates that the rabbet is always the same size. Not flexible. I used aluminum angle on mine mounted on deck. Measure once, cut twice.
Showing my ignorance here but what about the rabbit is used for picture framing? how does that affect the measurement?
p205, this guy knows whats up... I love this damn pencil in my shop
Excuse my ignorance but, why not use the miter saw to make frames?
Most miter saws are not accurate. I've found that is a huge waste of time playing around with testing angles to approach true 45 degrees, and this has to be redone every time. Table saw jig solves this problem.
Great features on this sled. I need to go get some supplies to get started!
Anything special about the countersink bit you are using in the aluminum?
Nope, any one should work
Awesome video! I love how, unlike SO MANY woodworking TH-camrs, you always give credit every time you do something that you learned from another TH-camr. Jon Peters veneer, David P's sled... it's cool that you tip the hat. A lot of folks just try to pretend that their video on [ insert topic ] just came to them, as if from a dream. For those of us, like myself, who watch an embarrassing amount of TH-cam... we always know. Ha! I do have a question though... HORWEEN LEATHER!?!? You glued down Horween leather to make a jig? Isn't that kinda like cutting up a hand woven silk gown to use as a bath mat? Ha! All jokes aside... I have been trying to find out where I can buy small amounts of horween leather for years. You always have to buy huge sides and/or spend big $$$. Where did you get those little bits?
Hahaha! Thanks Michael. Honestly I had no idea is was really nice leather. I bought a big bag of leather scraps from a materials coop in Portland. The place is called SCRAP and I highly recommend it.
Sawstop electronics can be turned off for cutting conductive materials.
Just to be clear: Once you've made the sled,, can you cut frame pieces without putting the Sawstop into bypass mode?. That is, are the aluminum fences far enough back from the blade that it won't trigger the Sawstop brake?
Great sled. When I click the link to download the plans. It is saying the site is private. How can I access the plans for this build?
What do you do if your item you want to frame isn't completely true. Ie, one side is a bit longer?
Great Job Nicely Done 👍🔨📐
I like the improvements a lot!
I really like this and I saw just last night where the original concept for this sled started from and as far as jigs go, this is the number one reason I wanted to own a table saw which I have one now but I still need to build my first cross cut sled and I appreciate the amount of innovation that went into this picture framing sled. I also noticed that the feather boards help to keep the wood pressed against the ruler and this to me looks like a safe sled to use for cutting. I do however want to cut 36” x 24” frames and wondered what it would take to make a sled for frames that big.
How would you do a similar jig but specifically for repeated box sides?
Great video, I'm using the plans to build the jig myself! Important question, though, is the one inch from the pre-cut kerf measured from the center of the kerf, or from the edge of the kerf?
Right on! Thanks! The zero mark should be on the edge of the kerf.
@@MichaelAlm Wonderful, thank you so much! Really excited to use this jig and bash out a bunch of lovely frames for my Black Friday art prints! 😎
You can bypass the sawstop safety feature. Turn and hold key, red flash, (don’t let go of key) start saw, red flash let key go. The green light should be blinking at this point and you now know you can cut conductive materials at this point. Sorry if someone already mentioned this. I didn’t want to look through all the comments. Careful when you do this... you can cut hot dogs and fingers at this point.
True, but you have to keep the saw blade running. It’s a lot of steps to go through every time you turn the saw on, and the one time I forget it’ll really suck.
I purchased your plans for both the frame sled and the spline jig, thank you! The frame sled plans do not show how long the initial cut into the sled should be. Does it matter how long or short it is? Thank you again.
Would like to order the picture frame sled plans but required info info does not include Canada options?
Hi Michael - bought the plans but didn't see anything in there about the placement of the runner(s). Can you please let me know?
What kind of blade do you use for cutting metal?
Effective design for repetitive cuts. Toggle clamps to replace featherboards would not limit the width of frame stock.
Maybe a saw tune up and a different blade would reduce the burning. Just saying. My OCD goes into overdrive when I see those brown marks.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing
Great video!! What's the widest frame thickness (not height) you can cut with this setup? Can you do a 2" wide frame?
As he mentioned early in the video, he placed the rule 4” from the edge, thus accepting up to that width of frame stock. That’s about the same as I did on an older version of this jig. However, I’ve been able to cut even wider material on mine.
@@rogerlove7588 I assume that to get that 4" you have to remove the feather boards
hey Michael (or anyone who sees this comment), I don't know if you will see this. I got your plan on your website and made the sled. It seems to be working really well, stoked. But my next project is doing frames that are deeper than what my table saw and this jig allow me to cut (using a 8.5in table saw and I need to cut a frame that is 2.75in deep, and I can cut like 1.5in now). Any "simple" trick to do that? I'm thinking of flipping the frame, but I'm not sure about how precise I can be then.. thanks! (also, I don't have a miter saw..)
Hi - thanks for the video! I plan to buy the plans but first wondering if this will work with wooden rulers, instead of aluminum?
Yep! That should work. Thanks 😁
@@MichaelAlm thanks for the quick response! Plans purchased- I look forward to making this.
Amazing, subscribed