Saved and liked. Burned my f15t8 tubes twice in a 1.4 year span was something i had to look into this ballast system inside 15" fixture. Two tubes has darker deposit toward end to transformer tap in right end. Popped it open revealed a fat transformer on right end and small circuit on left end holds two tiny 400v capacitors and few resistors, and 120v indicator bulb. I kinda figured capacitors could be somehow go bad sometime later. I will go out and get the new parts soon. I am writing to thank you for your assurance on this capacitor... now i have to add this transistor tester to my collection!
I love your comment “disclaimers”! But do you really expect people to have common sense when we teach our children to believe the scientific impossibility that nothing created everything? No one would believe that your light evolved over millions of years, would they? They know that someone with a mind made it! Information science has proven that all information originates from someone with a mind! God is the ultimate mind! “Ex nihilo, nihil fit”! Thank you for video!
My T5 21W 860mm tube light which is very rare here (usually 18W 600mm or 36W 1200mm) fail two week ago. Capacitor is bloated but also transistors looks bad and some resistors spalling surface. Not possible buy new because not in sale because some EU regulation but I have one good used tube and two new not used. Spare parts will cost more then same lenght LED but they also fail and dont want trash new tube I have
Dear Mr. Johnny, is there a way to test the electronic ballast without the tube installed? I have not studied the subject yet, I came straight to YT and watched the first competent video about it - yours. Thank you.
@@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797 Thank you, I will do that, it was my original plan. The tube worked after I replaced it the last two times, but sometimes it would flicker and it has a suspiciously short life (about a year and a half). This is kitchen light above the counter, perhaps it is because it is turned on and off very frequently?
@@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797 Update: I have desoldered and checked everything except inductors, resistors and the transformer. All good, one 22nF/100V capacitor was suspect, I replaced it with 22nF/630V. I put everything back together, turned the lamp on - no change, doesn't turn on. I bang the lamp slightly against the table - it lights. I tap it against the table again, it turns off. So in the end I check the only thing I haven't checked - the switch. And of course, contacts eaten, switch worn out. A stupid mistake, I should have checked that first. It is perhaps because I usually troubleshoot more complicated things.
Love the safety rant at the beginning. Unfortunately, common sense seems to be nonexistent in many younger generations; same with respect. Perhaps it’s due to excessive hand holding and over sensitivity to everything.
The world really took a head for the shitter when they started giving every kid a trophy!! Ya lose don’t worry you still get a trophy !! FUCK THAT YOU LOSE YOU GO GO TO THE LOCKER ROOM GO HOME ON THE BUS AND WORK 3x as hard at practice the next week to make sure you don’t lose again!!! Winners get trophies because they put the work in to win. Losers don’t get trophy’s!!!
I totally understand why you put a disclaimer it covers you just in case someone does something really stupid BUT if you dont know that 220 volts is going to hurt you you shouldn't do this sort of thingj
I got those things for free, so I'm happy to restore them at minimum cost. I don't like magnetic ballasts because the damn starter takes ages to strike the tube.
I'm not against the choke itself, yes it is heavy and it hums, but it doesn't produce any interference. I saw some circuits that supposebly replace the starter. Haven't tried those.
Ha ha "johnny is a lying sack of shit", you have a comical way with words :-D :-D Shake that fist "It was staged" he he :) I know what was wrong with it, like a computer it had a lot of bugs in it :) I used to repair a similar circuit that ran the tubes on buses/coaches, there was a capacitor across the power input and if it dies, the unit wont strike, also the transformer was a rather odd and complicated group of windings. The transistors i think were tip41a's
I decided to put a bit more humour and see the reaction :) Yes, I had to take out the debugger - aka Vacuum Cleaner :D I have built similar circuit to the one you are talking about. Self-oscillating push-pull converter, the Royer oscillator. Works quite good for driving flybacks to get some fat arcs, it is resonant converter, none of the less ;)
i would say your experement worked :), you now know that my humor is silly :-D. Never trust anyone without a sense of humor, they have mental problems :-D
Don't curse, God does not like that. I like your humor.(I'll won't go out on the street anymore - too dangerous!) I always leave the power on as much as possible when working with electricity...Just use your brains and don't touch two things at the same time. I like your accent too! My problem is a led light with ballast, the light works with another ballast, the capacitor at the beginning of the ballast is only 300V. (yes - is shortcuts) The rest I can't read - my eyesight is not that good. And I never went to electricity school... So? change that first capacitor?
Saved and liked. Burned my f15t8 tubes twice in a 1.4 year span was something i had to look into this ballast system inside 15" fixture. Two tubes has darker deposit toward end to transformer tap in right end.
Popped it open revealed a fat transformer on right end and small circuit on left end holds two tiny 400v capacitors and few resistors, and 120v indicator bulb. I kinda figured capacitors could be somehow go bad sometime later. I will go out and get the new parts soon.
I am writing to thank you for your assurance on this capacitor... now i have to add this transistor tester to my collection!
That disclaimer thing sounded funny made my day.
I'm happy for you :D
With electronic ballast, the T8 tube usually outlasts the ballast.
Ur disclaimer was great!! Had me cracking up!!!
Your rant at the start was the best :) Totally agree
Nice job whatever else is said you get the job done and the light now works so whats not to like?
Thanks for posting this. It's very helpful.
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks.
I'm glad to see that somebody have found an answer for their problem :)
Lol!! Sounded like Peter Lorre stopped in the middle of The Maltese Falcon to give a PSA! "Where's the common sense?"! Yep, made my day, too.
Nice Shango reference.
I love your comment “disclaimers”!
But do you really expect people to have common sense when we teach our children to believe the scientific impossibility that nothing created everything? No one would believe that your light evolved over millions of years, would they? They know that someone with a mind made it!
Information science has proven that all information originates from someone with a mind! God is the ultimate mind!
“Ex nihilo, nihil fit”! Thank you for video!
My T5 21W 860mm tube light which is very rare here (usually 18W 600mm or 36W 1200mm) fail two week ago. Capacitor is bloated but also transistors looks bad and some resistors spalling surface. Not possible buy new because not in sale because some EU regulation but I have one good used tube and two new not used. Spare parts will cost more then same lenght LED but they also fail and dont want trash new tube I have
Dear Mr. Johnny, is there a way to test the electronic ballast without the tube installed? I have not studied the subject yet, I came straight to YT and watched the first competent video about it - yours. Thank you.
Test the fusible resistor if it has one, than check diodes, transistors. Best test is with the tube, no way around it.
@@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797 Thank you, I will do that, it was my original plan. The tube worked after I replaced it the last two times, but sometimes it would flicker and it has a suspiciously short life (about a year and a half). This is kitchen light above the counter, perhaps it is because it is turned on and off very frequently?
@@mrjohhhnnnyyy5797 Update: I have desoldered and checked everything except inductors, resistors and the transformer. All good, one 22nF/100V capacitor was suspect, I replaced it with 22nF/630V. I put everything back together, turned the lamp on - no change, doesn't turn on. I bang the lamp slightly against the table - it lights. I tap it against the table again, it turns off. So in the end I check the only thing I haven't checked - the switch. And of course, contacts eaten, switch worn out. A stupid mistake, I should have checked that first. It is perhaps because I usually troubleshoot more complicated things.
@@I967 I have the same issue: I try to find a complicated problem when it is really simple, like a bad cable or switch :)
Love the safety rant at the beginning. Unfortunately, common sense seems to be nonexistent in many younger generations; same with respect. Perhaps it’s due to excessive hand holding and over sensitivity to everything.
The world really took a head for the shitter when they started giving every kid a trophy!! Ya lose don’t worry you still get a trophy !! FUCK THAT YOU LOSE YOU GO GO TO THE LOCKER ROOM GO HOME ON THE BUS AND WORK 3x as hard at practice the next week to make sure you don’t lose again!!! Winners get trophies because they put the work in to win. Losers don’t get trophy’s!!!
Need the light for yesterday!
My own burned an electrolytic capacitor
I totally understand why you put a disclaimer it covers you just in case someone does something really stupid BUT if you dont know that 220 volts is going to hurt you you shouldn't do this sort of thingj
Yes! But when I say this, I get the answer "Well, you shouldn't rely on common sense". Who am I, a nanny? That supposed to babysit them?
Sounds like peter lorrie.
I would had replaced it with a good Vossloh Schwabe or Tridonic magnetic ballast and the proper sized PFC capacitor.
I got those things for free, so I'm happy to restore them at minimum cost. I don't like magnetic ballasts because the damn starter takes ages to strike the tube.
MrJohhhnnnyyy If SRS ballasts weren't so uncommon in Europe that would be an option.
I'm not against the choke itself, yes it is heavy and it hums, but it doesn't produce any interference. I saw some circuits that supposebly replace the starter. Haven't tried those.
excelente amigo
Shematic, pls
I don't have it. These things are so simple, you don't need one. The starting cap is always in the vicinity of the wires that go to the tube.
Ha ha "johnny is a lying sack of shit", you have a comical way with words :-D :-D
Shake that fist "It was staged" he he :)
I know what was wrong with it, like a computer it had a lot of bugs in it :)
I used to repair a similar circuit that ran the tubes on buses/coaches, there was a capacitor across the power input and if it dies, the unit wont strike, also the transformer was a rather odd and complicated group of windings.
The transistors i think were tip41a's
I decided to put a bit more humour and see the reaction :)
Yes, I had to take out the debugger - aka Vacuum Cleaner :D
I have built similar circuit to the one you are talking about. Self-oscillating push-pull converter, the Royer oscillator. Works quite good for driving flybacks to get some fat arcs, it is resonant converter, none of the less ;)
i would say your experement worked :), you now know that my humor is silly :-D.
Never trust anyone without a sense of humor, they have mental problems :-D
Don't curse, God does not like that. I like your humor.(I'll won't go out on the street anymore - too dangerous!) I always leave the power on as much as possible when working with electricity...Just use your brains and don't touch two things at the same time. I like your accent too! My problem is a led light with ballast, the light works with another ballast, the capacitor at the beginning of the ballast is only 300V. (yes - is shortcuts) The rest I can't read - my eyesight is not that good. And I never went to electricity school... So? change that first capacitor?
маладес !
Very boaring