Nice to watch upgrades. I'd personally never want a Non RV fridge in my place since it's just me and don't need all that extra food space but mainly for the Propane switchover if power is lost and I'm not home to do anything about it. I love my Original RV Propane combo unit 😊❤️ Good luck out there 👍
The PO of my bus had the refrigerator replaced prior to my purchase. The windshield was replaced at the same time. I guess that worked out real well for them. Bad luck that your original unit was toast but good luck the door was still not installed to the coach. Really enjoy your series. Appreciate the content.
Thank you. This unit would have easily fit through the driver window too. Going through the windshield can also be difficult as the dashes can get in the way and damage easily.
Domestic fridges come on 4 feet or pedestals. RV fridge installs typically rest flush on the bottom. Each reno is different so be sure to address the weight impacts. Secondly, the low amperage dc power normally used for the rv control board can now be used for a thermostatically controlled rear exhauat fan on hot days. Don't close off the old vents which many do. And third, many domestic fridges, especially small apartment sizes, may have cooling lines for the compressor on the sides or even the top. A tight side fit will not permit those fridges to function properly.
I can’t believe the floor wasn’t cleaned where the frig. goes before installing the new one, I pull mine out twice a year and clean it, sure helps it run cooler ,
This is not an absorption refrigerator so it does not need to be pulled out and cleaned absorption refrigeration is outdated and going away quickly for many reasons
This has been a very cool project! Thanks for taking us along for the ride. So if you cut the fridge taking it out... do you cut the new one bringing it in? I like the window idea, sounds better
@@AZExpert And the self-adhesive Velcro tape. I used it to hold a printer on top of a microwave oven and the oven on the counter top of my semi tractor. Girl texting took me out and I rolled it. The microwave and the printer were still firmly attached to the counter when I went to clean the tractor out at the tow yard!!! Had to borrow a flat bar and pry them off.
keep in mind alot of Residential Refrigerator are not RV / DOT safe, this unit is not i am sure and if you do install one plug it in first out side of the RV on the ground and see if it has a free floating compressor , you can tell if why the compressor is on move the unit around some . if the compressor sound like a cat going nuts to get out of a box then you saved your self alot of time , PS free floating compressor is where the motor of the compressor is not mounted inside the can but the ,can, is mounted down, they did this to stop / lower the sound it makes , 2ed they need cooling and fire happens alot with units like that .i think you need to make a video on whats really safe to install in a RV , AND god dont get me started on guys that install wood flooring under a slide with out rollers and slide on the carpet , we need a video for that too
For a large family I understand the huge fridge. I travel with one or two so I am looking at simply placing a 3.2 cubic foot fridge in place of one of the dining table chairs and getting a 2 cubic foot 12 volt travel fridge / freezer down in the cargo area. I can still seat 3 people and I gain counter space via the top of the short fridge. Then I get to transform the regular fridge space into extra closet that will be about the same size as the bedroom closet. Less, power, more storage! Thoughts?
Not knowing the circumstances of the wreck, the owner might have been in no condition to do anything about the food in the fridge. Or the owner was looking to be done with it and get the insurance check.
I’ve heard repair centers pull the slide out of the coach to get a refrigerator out. Either way taking a door or window out is pretty wild In my opinion. That poor coach has had a rough life.
Hard Job!!!! Will the residential refrigator require more battery power than a regular norcold Rv frig? Would this bigger frig draw more amps and damage the inverter or other electrical components???? Thanks
yes it will, it needs a 2000watt inverter to keep 120vac to it when driving or dry camping, so solar should also be installed. But also, you could buy 3 of these for the price of one norcold 1200 and there is so much more room and less fire risk too. It will not damage the inverter and once down to temperature, the compressor only cycles a few times and hour and makes so much more ice! thanks!
@@AZExpert One trip to an RV junk yard decades ago convinced me to NEVER use an LP frig. Way too many burnt-up RV's there that started with the frig. But my 'home' unit is an 8 cu ft chest freezer in front of the bathroom wall (I yanked the dinette and sleeper sofa out and installed a drop-leaf table and chairs plus a recliner loveseat), and an 8 cu ft frig-only unit in the wall. The frig is mounted high enough (for easy reach) that the entire electrical system is now housed below it. The freezer (.62) and frig (.74) COMBINED only draw 1.4 amps @120 volts total!!! And, with that much freezer space, when I find good meat (beef, chicken, pork, lamb)... I buy in BULK!!! There's 40 lbs of fantastic ground chuck in it right now from a butcher shop. Four pounds browned for chili only results in two tablespoons of grease!!! Oh and... no RV stoves for me either. Installed a standard house type 24" range with solid state ignition. One thing most forget when designing a solar system is back-up. I have 9-265 watt panels wired three sets of three in-series through three MPPT controllers to 900 amp/hrs of batteries. If something would happen to a panel or two, or if one of the controllers died, the system is still capable of producing two-thirds power. That's the first back-up. The panels are commercial-grade purchased used out of Miami, so they were already as browned-over as they will get and the quality is fantastic (they weigh half again as much as the cheap Chinese units out there now). The batteries, standard Trojan golf-cart units bought new for $92.00 a piece. Yeah, I know, but I have the gross vehicle weight to handle them. But, there is also a tenth panel wired through its own MPPT controller to a second battery bank that's 225 amp/hrs. When the main batteries reach 72% (extended battery life), the main inverter drops out and fires an auto-transfer switch. The much smaller inverter on the back-up batteries switches on, and the frig and freezer are transferred to that system. It doesn't happen very often... but it does happen. In addition, let me tell you it IS possible to run AC off solar, just not the 1960's tech RV roof units. I have a 12,000 btu mini-split in front, and a 9,000 in the bedroom. Both units running during the day still leaves enough left over to run other electrical needs and still keep the batteries topped off. And the unit in the bedroom is set for 68 degrees all night. My buddy thought I was crazy to spend $6,000 on an old 1992 34 foot Southwind fixing it up. But, I already owned it and it's paid for!!! And, spoiler alert, the old Chevy P30 chassis uses the same parts as the C3500 one ton pick-up. So... ALL the beefed-up after-market parts for the pick-up will fit a motorhome. My front and REAR anti-sway bars are 1 5/8", the rotors are drilled and slotted, the calipers are dual piston, etc. etc. etc. Plus, since I primarily boondock, the springs and shocks front and rear are 2" over stock height. And never spend the money for 'RV' tires. Mine are commercial B.F. Goodrich truck tires, 12 ply 14 rated, all-position in the front and traction lug in the rear. The rear traction-lug tires have 29/32" of tread!!! The ones on my semi tractor ran 500,000 miles. The kicker is, they cost 60% LESS than RV tires!!! And, check out the Cross-Fire tire system for duals. They really increase tire life.
Hi, I’m just wondering I got a 2010 Monaco night what’s the best residential fridge that I could put on this I’m going to remove the old one he has a propane and electric thanks
I call them Southco(the manufacturer) latches. But they are cabinet door latches www.amazon.com/Southco-Passivated-Plastic-Grabber-Concealed/dp/B00GM5F1II/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGuHYtMxrmVAK17FZdDOVomerfX257OgK3pTRoZ90DDjrUj-EzOnhUBoC6CgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409940672121&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030039&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=18191232111654878082&hvtargid=kwd-515478639&hydadcr=24660_11410819&keywords=southco+latches&qid=1606829753&sr=8-3&tag=googhydr-20
We live in Tempe and am thinking about buying a Rockwood, Flagstaff or Jayco travel trailer. Everyone, I mean everyone I talk to tells me horror stories about dealers and repairs here in the Valley. I don't want to spend my retirement years fixing and repairing a trailer, would it make more sense to just use the money for hotels that I never have to fix? Thanks for your time. Cal
The first question to answer is what are your plans as camping and traveling can be difficult in motels? If you are going to use the trailer more than 4 months a year than ownership is likely a good idea. I would recommend renting a RV first and you will never have more negotiating power than when you don't already have a RV to trade in. Thanks!
With respect I ask, did you notice that the doors on the new fridge look to be misaligned. One looks to sit a bit higher than the other. Also, is the carpet below the fridge able to be saved? Looks pretty gross. I assume that can be replaced without removing the fridge again?
Is that a dent in the center of the freezer door? I hate stainless door panels, especially whirlpool as they are paper thin. A good fart aimed properly will dent those panels. Took me 3 fridges to get one without a dent in the door panel and only 1 week before someone closed the freezer drawer with a foot to put a dent in it.
Does the bracket you used to attach the top of the refrigerator to the trim come with the refrig? And do all refrigerators have the screw attachment holes to attach that bracket to the refrig. First I've seen a refrig with those bracket screw holes. Thanks!
no, Tiffin made this bracket, I just re-used it rather than make my own. There are many different methods of securing a residential refrigerator. I have put brackets on the sides, top, and even blocks wedged against the ceiling. It's just important to secure it.
@@AZExpert what about the bracket attachment screw holes on top of the refrigerator? Are those holes standard on residential refrigerators or was that Whirlpool a special residential unit for RV use? Thanks!
Hi AZ Expert. What is the power draw on that fridge? Im thinking of going residential and dont know if i have enough battery power. I would not want to use generator all the time. Can you advise on what kind of setup would suffice such an appliance? Thanks for helping.
Too bad someone wasn't available to steam clean that carpet. We are considering a residential fridge swap....no problems yet with ours but it is over 20 yo.
I put a residential unit in my camper I had a dometic absorption refrigerator. since I live full-time and my camper It is stationary I consider it a tiny house The absorption refrigerator was pointless for me due to the fact it only was cold on gas and the electric setting was practically useless. I am very happy I installed a residential unit if anyone wants to know the exact refrigerator I have it is a 7.5 cubic foot RCA refrigerator it is the only one I could find that fit the dimensions of mine
I agree with your choice. Unless the RV is doing extended dry camping, a residitial is the way just for cubic feet and also they cool down much faster.
An installation much easier with wide passenger door. I saw other video, one of them,was the side window ,and much more difficult . One of them claim : refrigerator :1500$, installation : same price . Getting fridge out, time to put new floor.
What was the dimensions of that refrigerator counter depth but I how wide and how tall I am renovating my fifth wheel and might have to replace The refrigerator in my diesel pusher
these are not. You'd be surprised how common unlevel doors are on refrigerators. I could have made micro adjustments, but once loaded with food they would have issues. Also I have found perfection to be the enemy of the good. Thanks!
I hate to be the bad news informer, the idea of replacing the fridge is a good idea. But! You have to remember the value goes down, and the most important thing is that the RV fridge is part of structure of the RV. Unless you have reinforced the cavity you infact have now weakend the structure of that area. All the appliances add Ridgidy to the RV itself . Just be aware of changing structure is going against the manufacturing design.
IF you cut an old fridge in half to more easily get it out of an RV, wouldn't you still have to remove a window or windshield or entry door in order to get the new one in? 🤔
@@AZExpert True. Replacement may not be as deep (counter depth) or is otherwise dimensionally smaller, allowing insertion via doorway vs. older larger fridge that required Sawzall Surgery 😉
I’m sure glad this guy isn’t working on my coach. No floor protection down, no protection over the front passenger seat as they dragged the old refrigerator over the top of it. No cleaning after the old refrigerator was pulled out before the new one was put in. Very sloppy work.
My refrigerator doesn't have its water hookup so I have no water or ice maker because the original owner had a bad mishap with the water line with his previous motorhome. So how hard is it to connect the lines? also what are the odds of a bad leak which I think that's what the problem was?
Highly appreciative of your videos. Thank you!
Thinking smarter, not harder. Nice work James.
thanks
Good to see a new fridge put in the Red. Thanks for the video James. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!
Keep the awesome videos coming
I have so many to edit...I'm a little overwhelmed. Thanks!
Nice to watch upgrades. I'd personally never want a Non RV fridge in my place since it's just me and don't need all that extra food space but mainly for the Propane switchover if power is lost and I'm not home to do anything about it. I love my Original RV Propane combo unit 😊❤️ Good luck out there 👍
Thanks for posting... I always learn something when watching your projects!!
Glad to hear it!
I love watching your videos. I learn so much
Thanks!
Another bit of knowledge in case I ever have to swap out mine. Thanks James.
Glad to help
The PO of my bus had the refrigerator replaced prior to my purchase. The windshield was replaced at the same time. I guess that worked out real well for them. Bad luck that your original unit was toast but good luck the door was still not installed to the coach. Really enjoy your series. Appreciate the content.
Thank you. This unit would have easily fit through the driver window too. Going through the windshield can also be difficult as the dashes can get in the way and damage easily.
Good find and better!
Coming along nicely
thank you
looks good.... I guess after they wrecked it they wouldn't worried about cleaning the refrigerator out....✌🏼✌🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I'm sure they had other things on their minds too.
Domestic fridges come on 4 feet or pedestals. RV fridge installs typically rest flush on the bottom. Each reno is different so be sure to address the weight impacts. Secondly, the low amperage dc power normally used for the rv control board can now be used for a thermostatically controlled rear exhauat fan on hot days. Don't close off the old vents which many do. And third, many domestic fridges, especially small apartment sizes, may have cooling lines for the compressor on the sides or even the top. A tight side fit will not permit those fridges to function properly.
I can’t believe the floor wasn’t cleaned where the frig. goes before installing the new one, I pull mine out twice a year and clean it, sure helps it run cooler ,
the plywood floor was clean, the carpet is accessible. Thanks
This is not an absorption refrigerator so it does not need to be pulled out and cleaned absorption refrigeration is outdated and going away quickly for many reasons
Another excellent video!!
Thanks again!
Cutting the fridge to get it out, can't do that with the new one though...that fridge was definitely an upgrade
Definitely! I know I really enjoy water in the door, saves a lot of space for food too. Thanks!
This has been a very cool project! Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
So if you cut the fridge taking it out... do you cut the new one bringing it in?
I like the window idea, sounds better
I've seen many things over the years.
Thanks for the show on the fridge swap
Did you buy that Eagle coach you did the inspection on the really sweet one that was in mint shape?
No, I did not buy that, one day I'll get a motorhome.
Nice job as usual.
BTW, I did not see that door ding in the freezer door. LOL J/K.......
😁Scratch and dent is the biggest time and money saver ever, otherwise we'd be waiting for Janurary for the frig.
@@AZExpert Got it, I figured you scratched and dented it. LOL
Yuck
New is wonderful
And smells good also.
Great video.thank's
The good news is that it didn't smell, just looked awful.
Double sided tape, holding the world together in varying degrees since 1959.
I'm amazed by it too
@@AZExpert And the self-adhesive Velcro tape. I used it to hold a printer on top of a microwave oven and the oven on the counter top of my semi tractor. Girl texting took me out and I rolled it. The microwave and the printer were still firmly attached to the counter when I went to clean the tractor out at the tow yard!!! Had to borrow a flat bar and pry them off.
Looks good .
thank you
keep in mind alot of Residential Refrigerator are not RV / DOT safe, this unit is not i am sure and if you do install one plug it in first out side of the RV on the ground and see if it has a free floating compressor , you can tell if why the compressor is on move the unit around some . if the compressor sound like a cat going nuts to get out of a box then you saved your self alot of time , PS free floating compressor is where the motor of the compressor is not mounted inside the can but the ,can, is mounted down, they did this to stop / lower the sound it makes , 2ed they need cooling and fire happens alot with units like that .i think you need to make a video on whats really safe to install in a RV , AND god dont get me started on guys that install wood flooring under a slide with out rollers and slide on the carpet , we need a video for that too
thanks
Falcon7350, Well that’s interesting 🤔. Thx.
The new refrigerator looked to be wider with 4 doors. Looked nice all the work on on this wreck
it should be much nicer too with two narrower doors by the hallway
How about the filthy carpet underneath the fridge? I am shocked to see that was not cleaned first, yuck.
We're still making messes in there.
Thank you
You're welcome
Happy Cyborg Monday.
For a large family I understand the huge fridge. I travel with one or two so I am looking at simply placing a 3.2 cubic foot fridge in place of one of the dining table chairs and getting a 2 cubic foot 12 volt travel fridge / freezer down in the cargo area. I can still seat 3 people and I gain counter space via the top of the short fridge. Then I get to transform the regular fridge space into extra closet that will be about the same size as the bedroom closet. Less, power, more storage! Thoughts?
Hey whatever works for your family is what works!
@@AZExpert Just glad my idea didn't raise any red flags! thank you!
Not knowing the circumstances of the wreck, the owner might have been in no condition to do anything about the food in the fridge. Or the owner was looking to be done with it and get the insurance check.
you are correct, but someone had to have seen it at some point. Definitely a case of "not my job" thanks
Residential Fridges need ventilation around the outside to exhaust heat from the cooling process. How did you do that?
Most Rv's have a roof vent
Suggestions on running a waterline to my recently installed Residential Refrigerator, caveat it is in a slide. Thanks
just follow the wiring using 1/4" water line into the slide
I’ve heard repair centers pull the slide out of the coach to get a refrigerator out. Either way taking a door or window out is pretty wild In my opinion. That poor coach has had a rough life.
I'd be hardpressed to pull a slide rather than a window or windshield. Nothing worse than owning a slide problem.
Hard Job!!!! Will the residential refrigator require more battery power than a regular norcold Rv frig? Would this bigger frig draw more amps and damage the inverter or other electrical components???? Thanks
yes it will, it needs a 2000watt inverter to keep 120vac to it when driving or dry camping, so solar should also be installed. But also, you could buy 3 of these for the price of one norcold 1200 and there is so much more room and less fire risk too. It will not damage the inverter and once down to temperature, the compressor only cycles a few times and hour and makes so much more ice! thanks!
@@AZExpert One trip to an RV junk yard decades ago convinced me to NEVER use an LP frig. Way too many burnt-up RV's there that started with the frig. But my 'home' unit is an 8 cu ft chest freezer in front of the bathroom wall (I yanked the dinette and sleeper sofa out and installed a drop-leaf table and chairs plus a recliner loveseat), and an 8 cu ft frig-only unit in the wall. The frig is mounted high enough (for easy reach) that the entire electrical system is now housed below it. The freezer (.62) and frig (.74) COMBINED only draw 1.4 amps @120 volts total!!! And, with that much freezer space, when I find good meat (beef, chicken, pork, lamb)... I buy in BULK!!! There's 40 lbs of fantastic ground chuck in it right now from a butcher shop. Four pounds browned for chili only results in two tablespoons of grease!!! Oh and... no RV stoves for me either. Installed a standard house type 24" range with solid state ignition. One thing most forget when designing a solar system is back-up. I have 9-265 watt panels wired three sets of three in-series through three MPPT controllers to 900 amp/hrs of batteries. If something would happen to a panel or two, or if one of the controllers died, the system is still capable of producing two-thirds power. That's the first back-up. The panels are commercial-grade purchased used out of Miami, so they were already as browned-over as they will get and the quality is fantastic (they weigh half again as much as the cheap Chinese units out there now). The batteries, standard Trojan golf-cart units bought new for $92.00 a piece. Yeah, I know, but I have the gross vehicle weight to handle them. But, there is also a tenth panel wired through its own MPPT controller to a second battery bank that's 225 amp/hrs. When the main batteries reach 72% (extended battery life), the main inverter drops out and fires an auto-transfer switch. The much smaller inverter on the back-up batteries switches on, and the frig and freezer are transferred to that system. It doesn't happen very often... but it does happen. In addition, let me tell you it IS possible to run AC off solar, just not the 1960's tech RV roof units. I have a 12,000 btu mini-split in front, and a 9,000 in the bedroom. Both units running during the day still leaves enough left over to run other electrical needs and still keep the batteries topped off. And the unit in the bedroom is set for 68 degrees all night. My buddy thought I was crazy to spend $6,000 on an old 1992 34 foot Southwind fixing it up. But, I already owned it and it's paid for!!! And, spoiler alert, the old Chevy P30 chassis uses the same parts as the C3500 one ton pick-up. So... ALL the beefed-up after-market parts for the pick-up will fit a motorhome. My front and REAR anti-sway bars are 1 5/8", the rotors are drilled and slotted, the calipers are dual piston, etc. etc. etc. Plus, since I primarily boondock, the springs and shocks front and rear are 2" over stock height. And never spend the money for 'RV' tires. Mine are commercial B.F. Goodrich truck tires, 12 ply 14 rated, all-position in the front and traction lug in the rear. The rear traction-lug tires have 29/32" of tread!!! The ones on my semi tractor ran 500,000 miles. The kicker is, they cost 60% LESS than RV tires!!! And, check out the Cross-Fire tire system for duals. They really increase tire life.
Hi, I’m just wondering I got a 2010 Monaco night what’s the best residential fridge that I could put on this I’m going to remove the old one he has a propane and electric thanks
What are the name of the latches you placed on top of the doors to keep them closed while traveling? Thanks for your videos!
I call them Southco(the manufacturer) latches. But they are cabinet door latches
www.amazon.com/Southco-Passivated-Plastic-Grabber-Concealed/dp/B00GM5F1II/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Jf-BRB-EiwAWDtEGuHYtMxrmVAK17FZdDOVomerfX257OgK3pTRoZ90DDjrUj-EzOnhUBoC6CgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409940672121&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030039&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=18191232111654878082&hvtargid=kwd-515478639&hydadcr=24660_11410819&keywords=southco+latches&qid=1606829753&sr=8-3&tag=googhydr-20
Thank you!
We live in Tempe and am thinking about buying a Rockwood, Flagstaff or Jayco travel trailer. Everyone, I mean everyone I talk to tells me horror stories about dealers and repairs here in the Valley. I don't want to spend my retirement years fixing and repairing a trailer, would it make more sense to just use the money for hotels that I never have to fix? Thanks for your time. Cal
The first question to answer is what are your plans as camping and traveling can be difficult in motels? If you are going to use the trailer more than 4 months a year than ownership is likely a good idea. I would recommend renting a RV first and you will never have more negotiating power than when you don't already have a RV to trade in. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Thanks!
With respect I ask, did you notice that the doors on the new fridge look to be misaligned. One looks to sit a bit higher than the other. Also, is the carpet below the fridge able to be saved? Looks pretty gross. I assume that can be replaced without removing the fridge again?
Oh I noticed. thanks
Is that a dent in the center of the freezer door? I hate stainless door panels, especially whirlpool as they are paper thin. A good fart aimed properly will dent those panels. Took me 3 fridges to get one without a dent in the door panel and only 1 week before someone closed the freezer drawer with a foot to put a dent in it.
it was a dented floor model, much easier to start with a dent. lol
Does the bracket you used to attach the top of the refrigerator to the trim come with the refrig? And do all refrigerators have the screw attachment holes to attach that bracket to the refrig. First I've seen a refrig with those bracket screw holes. Thanks!
no, Tiffin made this bracket, I just re-used it rather than make my own. There are many different methods of securing a residential refrigerator. I have put brackets on the sides, top, and even blocks wedged against the ceiling. It's just important to secure it.
@@AZExpert what about the bracket attachment screw holes on top of the refrigerator? Are those holes standard on residential refrigerators or was that Whirlpool a special residential unit for RV use? Thanks!
Hi AZ Expert. What is the power draw on that fridge? Im thinking of going residential and dont know if i have enough battery power. I would not want to use generator all the time. Can you advise on what kind of setup would suffice such an appliance? Thanks for helping.
As long as you have an inverter
I needed this video!
I hope it wasn't too late.
After the fridge...replace carpet. LOL
I have hopes it will clean.....hopes only. But one thing at a time, we're still doing construction work and making messes. Thanks!
🎵Notcho Notcho Man🎵😂🤣
lol
Too bad someone wasn't available to steam clean that carpet.
We are considering a residential fridge swap....no problems yet with ours but it is over 20 yo.
It was cleaned after the repairs were made
I put a residential unit in my camper I had a dometic absorption refrigerator. since I live full-time and my camper It is stationary I consider it a tiny house The absorption refrigerator was pointless for me due to the fact it only was cold on gas and the electric setting was practically useless. I am very happy I installed a residential unit if anyone wants to know the exact refrigerator I have it is a 7.5 cubic foot RCA refrigerator it is the only one I could find that fit the dimensions of mine
I agree with your choice. Unless the RV is doing extended dry camping, a residitial is the way just for cubic feet and also they cool down much faster.
@@AZExpert absolutely
I thought you would talk about power incompatiblity.
They aren't incompatible
An installation much easier with wide passenger door. I saw other video, one of them,was the side window ,and much more difficult . One of them claim : refrigerator :1500$, installation : same price .
Getting fridge out, time to put new floor.
I have removed windows or windshields but I'd rather not if I can help it
How can you get rid of the carpet that borders the tile floor? It looks like it’s a dirt magnet.
The carpet conceals the level out slide floor ramp. It's difficult to redesign something durable and that won't damage feet as a replacement
What was the dimensions of that refrigerator counter depth but I how wide and how tall I am renovating my fifth wheel and might have to replace The refrigerator in my diesel pusher
it was a whirlpool wrf560seym00 34.5"d x 30" w x 68.5" h thanks
my wife would have put some elbow grease to it and had that fridge looking like new
Awesome
maybe its the ocd in me but could the doors have been more in line...the left was way lower..are they adjustable
these are not. You'd be surprised how common unlevel doors are on refrigerators. I could have made micro adjustments, but once loaded with food they would have issues. Also I have found perfection to be the enemy of the good. Thanks!
Those double door refrigerators infuriate me to no end.. can never get the doors to line up.
It hasnt been a problem
Man, it’s almost like a religion ... owning one of these. To keep up on it properly you just about have to worship it.
I think of them as houses, and if a house was left abandoned for even a month, there would be many problems.
It does become a VERY EXPENSIVE
OBSESSION
I ASSURE YOU.
My OCD kicked in since the doors are not adjusted to match in height.
you'd be surprised how common it is on refrigerators even in a house
I hate to be the bad news informer, the idea of replacing the fridge is a good idea. But! You have to remember the value goes down, and the most important thing is that the RV fridge is part of structure of the RV. Unless you have reinforced the cavity you infact have now weakend the structure of that area. All the appliances add Ridgidy to the RV itself . Just be aware of changing structure is going against the manufacturing design.
Thanks for the concern
IF you cut an old fridge in half to more easily get it out of an RV, wouldn't you still have to remove a window or windshield or entry door in order to get the new one in? 🤔
sometimes
@@AZExpert True. Replacement may not be as deep (counter depth) or is otherwise dimensionally smaller, allowing insertion via doorway vs. older larger fridge that required Sawzall Surgery 😉
Someone's listening to KEZ...
maybe.....
I’m sure glad this guy isn’t working on my coach. No floor protection down, no protection over the front passenger seat as they dragged the old refrigerator over the top of it. No cleaning after the old refrigerator was pulled out before the new one was put in. Very sloppy work.
Thank you for sharing and watching. It's great to hear kind feedback.
RV was purchased at a salvage auction; they are in the process of restoring it. This RV is not owned by a customer.
My refrigerator doesn't have its water hookup so I have no water or ice maker because the original owner had a bad mishap with the water line with his previous motorhome. So how hard is it to connect the lines? also what are the odds of a bad leak which I think that's what the problem was?
if it's there it shouldn't be too difficult