by adding a piece of stainless metal screen just past the inside blue flame,it will help atomize the propane and provide a hot glowing surface to keep it lit. I'm building a waste oil/ forced air burner for a forge and it works pretty well. thanks for posting your video.
michael munson for fairies totally unnecessary there's a thousand of these videos out I'm only about half of them these for Sherry at all of them get about the same result
Would love for you to explain exactly what it is you are trying to say so everyone reading your response..... knows exactly what you were TRYING to say. PS Having actually built several burners that were posted to TH-cam..... they are most definitely not all the same. I believe Mr. Munson was trying to help. - Your gibberish... did not Mr. clown. - @@ClownWhisper
can you detail for a novice please because it seems to me that the function of the platinum/palladium mesh is simply to destroy the polluting gases? your idea is interesting can you give more details please ?
@@proteo-x4u Platinum and palladium are catalysts, which means they facilitates the reaction of most (or maybe all, I'm not sure) flammable gases with oxygen. So, when you expose a catalyst to a mix of oxygen (air in this case) and a flammable gas (propane in this case), both react together, decomposing some of the flammable gas (propane decomposes to carbon dioxide and water) which heats up the catalyst. If the supply of the gas mix is constant, the catalyst will keep heating up until the gas mix burst into flames (when the flash point is reached) and will burn it before it can be decomposed. With propane, the reaction is weaker and slower than other more volatile gases like hydrogen and methanol. Therefore, the catalyst will need to be heated before it can react with the gas mix and sustain the reaction. So, it will start to work a few seconds after the torch is lit, but should then prevent it from going out, since as long as there is propane and air passing through it, it will remain hot enough to reignite the torch. In a car, it works same way. When the leftover hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) and other polluting/toxic gases (like carbon monoxide) passes through the catalytic converter, they react with the the oxygen left in the exhaust gases (that's why cars have to run slightly lean, so that some oxygen is left to activate the catalysis) and get decomposed to carbon dioxide (which is less polluting/toxic), water and heat. That heat keeps the catalyst at it's peak efficiency so that it will decompose gases faster. However, unlike in the torch, there is not enough oxygen for the flammable gas to burn, even if the catalyst gets hot enough.
Have you ever used the pressure gauge recommended by Dave on his video? On this design I don't see how the gauge would read the pressure since the propane is going through the burner (under the gauge through the T)...
i have a gauge but i dont use it much. It taps in after the needle valve but before the street elbow so it can read the pressure before mixing in the 2 in tube.
I see a lot of people making propane burners most are ok for cooking but if you need a high BTU burner you must have a liquid propane burner, and a dip tube for your propane bottle, I use to make burners for asphalt equipment we had a small burner 3 inches long by 2 inches in diameter that would produce one million BTU it was a hand burner used to heat asphalt pumps, I have built liquid propane burners that consume 800 galloons a day and required a blower like you see on truck motors so if you want high BTU go liquid
Try looking at industrial high velocity burner nozzles for ideas on making a more stable and compact flame. There are ways to design a nozzle that will keep the flame anchored with various air/fuel ratios. Using the bell reducer helps you because it is slowing the velocity of the mixture enough to provide stable combustion. One way would be to add spin to the mixture just before the anchor point, you can achieve more stability and a more compact flame.
i would probably run a 1/4" pipe tap into the other side of the bushing reducer so i could thread in a street elbow on the inside of the big tee... add either a nipple with a pipe cap that is drilled so you have an angled jet for the propane.. instead of just blowing it into the body of the tee .. you could slit caps or plugs to get a fan pattern.. you could even get creative and cut angles in the caps so you discharge at angles to create a spin that would blend.. just a thought..
It's called a Fernco mostly by plumbers, Fernco is the prime manufacture (Fernco also makes other products), it is a rubber bell coupling. Just like Kleenex, Crescent wrench.
Hi, I just saw your very interesting video and I would be grateful if you could give me some information: what is the 2" sleeve for since I don't see it in the final realization? The gas flow is regulated by the needle valve since you haven't used any nozzle? Thank you very much will you kindly reply to me👋
Drill small holes in the end (hot) nozzel, and the other end where the air comes in, cut around a round piece of thin metal to fit inside the nipples and cut pie shapes lines to toward the, center stop about a half inch to center, do at least 16 cuts, then with a needle nose pliers , twist each blade about 30 degreese clockwise, repeat this one more time but twist the blades on this one counterclockwise. Insert these about 2 inches apart close to where the gas is coming in and assemble. The air will now create a vortex and mix the gas to ignite with max b t u. I tried it and it was much better.
Hey! Do you know the BTU/hr of this? Or, have you tried running an entire 20lb tank empty? How long did that take? Also, would it be possible to make it portable by using a 14oz propane torch bottle? I know it wont last very long at all, but do those little bottles give enough pressure to get a big enough flame? Thanks!
I was building a similar burner based on TKOR design... I had lots of unburned gas in the kiln, and never reached copper melting temperatures. Looks like forcing air with a blower is the next thing to try...
Thank you for your video, can you give us your fan model and recommended airflow? I am making a foundry to make wootz with a double forced air torch. Thank you for your help
wow! that's some hardware! I saw at the end of the vid you were having some trouble lighting your torch. allot of times this is due to the torch body being too short or too much air forcing through the burner. I would suggest trying a longer nipple, maybe a 10". also be sure your torch behaves the same inside what you will be burning in, in this case a gigantic foundry lol. Allot of times it will not preform the same outside the forge as it does inside. All in all great clear vid very understandable. however I would suggest just a bit more research. not trying to be mean at all. If ya want I would be happy to give ya few pointers.
+KID18T Actually in my personal experience it's the complete opposite. The forced air burners use more gas to compete with all the air that is being forced into the mix. While the can get hotter, I find them unnecessary. I've got a torch design that is venturie that will get up to forge welding temps in no time but I can keep it a reducing environment to prevent scale. all while running at 8psi. Just my experience though. I do know forces air burners are way easier to tune.
I'm not sure about propane specifically, but I do know that teflon can produce a fume when vaporized that can knock someone unconscious in seconds and kill them after that. Kinda interesting that we put it on nonstick pans huh?😋
my set up is almost like this except my 1 inch burner inserts into forge without flare. I have no problem reaching temps upward 2700 degrees. I easily melt cast iron. and heat high carbon steel white hot and workable.
Just tank pressure don't need anything fancy a screw type valve to control amount of propane and a valve to control amount of forced air that can be supplied by a blower or air compressor. Depending on size of forge/ foundry you may need more volume of air than some small compressors produce.I used a air matters blower starting out work fine for aluminum but to get higher heat I recently started using the blower connect of my shop vac if mix is adjusted properly you can reach much higher temps
I have an old inducer motor from an old high efficent furnace. should do the trick... so using a standard bbq regulator will work with the needle valve? I ordered both from amazon yesterday 😅
what pressure do you run the propane, what psi? do you need a needle valve and adjustable regulator? I'm getting a 0-30 psi regulator and a needle valve... would love to know at what pressure you ran it
Im new to this type of DIY builds. Quick question: what should i look out for when concerning saftey. I have the entire torch built but im hesitate to start it. Whats the possibility of and explosion or other malfunction?
As long as the pipe is open it cannot explode. Only thing you have to worry about is if you lose power and the fan shuts down then the propane will flow back into the blower but that is why you have a quick shut off valve in the propane line.
I'm having trouble igniting my burner. The pressure gauge is not moving even though tank is full (25 pounds tank), I really don't see how the pressure gauge can measure any pressure located where it is, it confuses me. Also I'm using a 12" long nipple at the end, maybe it's too long? I'm going to try changing it to a 10" long nipple and try again. Everything else is almost identical to your design and all the gauges, valves, regulator, etc are the same as yours and Dave's. Any suggestions, ideas on what might be going on?
Is it igniting then going out? If so you will have to play with the fuel air mixture and or the size of the flare. This type of burner needs some back pressure so you can try putting it in a forge and try lighting it there. If you cant smell the propane coming out then your gas line is blocked or turned off somewhere.
I got it to light once by reducing the amount of air but it went out quickly. I'll try shortening the end nipple and see what happens. I can definitely smell and see the propane coming out but I have a question, I have the 0-60 psi regulator at full pressure, how is the propane supposed to flow? Is it meant to come out with pressure? right now the gas flows with not much pressure but constantly.
I would try to use a 1in to 1.5 in flare at the end of the nipple. the flare is where the stability in atmosphere comes from. sometimes they are finicky.
7 psi from propane. how about the needle valve? how do you find those adjustments? like half way or just eventually it will ignite while playing with it?
@@nickwoo2 Excess air will simply blow heat out of the furnace, rather than allowing time for the heat produced to be absorbed. Too little air and you will produce soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame is starved of air to burn the gas completely and properly.
I would suggest a valve to regulate the airflow into the burner. If you can regulate both air and propane you can easily customise your burner to whatever purpose. I use a bypass valve system on mine. In open air it wants to blow itself out but inside tje forge it runs perfectly, with a very low gas consumption.
Yes, you need to control the airflow into the burner. Too much air and the flame will blow out, as happens in the video, and the heat is blown out of the furnace before it can be absorbed efficiently. Too little combustion air and you make soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame can't burn the gas properly and completely.
Can you help me? My burner's flame is about 1to2 inches away from the mouth of the burner. Do you know what may be causing it? Inside the forge the coolest part is right in front of the burner and the rest of it is hot as it should be.
Sounds like the flare at the end may need modifying or The speed of the fluids sounds a bit high so it is starting to combust outside of the flare. Try a different air flow and or a different flare.
The flame dosnt stay on because you got too much air going in. Add a valve to the air input to tune both air and gas.... the video was posted a while back so I guess you figured that out by now
Nice burner! You may have stated this and I just missed it but what was the purpose of filing the smaller fitting to pass through the large fitting? I didn't see it as part of the lit torch.
The reason the burner flame kept going out is that the speed of the air/gas flow exceeds the speed at which the gas burns. Slow down the air flow in particular and you wont have that problem, or the need for a flare fitting at the end of your burner.
ملاحظة ، أنتبه الي قدف النار و إنطفائها هادا يوحي بي أن نسبة الهواء المار داخل الشاليمو أكثر كتافة من الغاز و لهاذا الأسباب يجب الوزن بينهما يا إما نقص الهواء المنبعث من الكمبريسور أو زيادة قطر الثقب الباك ، و هادا التعديل يجعل مزان إنسجام تدفق الغاز مع الهواء متوازن لا ينبغي أن الهواء يكون قوي علي الغاز ف يقدفه بعيد علي المخرج الشاليمو و يتسبب في إنطفائها ، شكرًا جزيلا سيدي
Once it's in the foundry it will stay lit. I agree that there should be an airflow gate to slow or increase the amount of airflow. But it will stay lit In The foundry.
Needs a internal cutting tip added. To mix the air to the fuel before entering the flared end. Then it would burn at about any mixture. Leaving it more reliable to staying lit. And easyer to adjust to a perfect flame when mounted in a kelm or forge. As going out like that in a closed space could get danguruse.
Hey Nick, I followed your design but I'm having trouble getting my flame not to sputter. Trying to use it inside Grant Thompson's mini foundry. What psi do you run your propane at?
I don't have a pressure gauge but another fellow said to try a longer nipple like a 10 in or a different size flare to get a consistent flame in open atmosphere. mine works fine inside my forge with or without the flare. how much volume does your forge have.
Try reducing the air flow. You will get more reliable ignition and the heat produced will have time to be absorbed by the burner rather than being blown out of the furnace.
change your 2 x 3/4 T for a 2 x 3/4 "rooster".....a few different types.....some have 45 degree 3/4 fitting on a 2" T.....others are an 90 degree elbow fitting elongated on one side....with a 3/4 fitting in the head...looks like a roosters head....will smooth your air-flow.....
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire sch 40 is just the thickness probably mild steel HE is used for sour gas.....3 year old comment😄 thanks for the reply at least.
+chris white You can use an el-cheapo hair drier. Just hook to bridge rectifier on back of the motor. Can run on anywhere from couple of volts up to about 40 volts DC. I use a variable DC supply. Gives great air flow control especially in the forge which in my case is coal fired.
Don't forget to have portable small torch on hand and some kind of cart or dolly to carry on when you want use this extra heavy home made torch/ burner.
I put flame holders in mine and it works awesome. I use a piece of 1/2"x1/16th angle iron mounted inside the burner end with the edge of the v part pointing outward. ====0>==O kinda like this, fire coming out the O.
why not make a venturi burner instead? then you only need a gas tank. then you don't need a blower. I made a venturi burner myself, it's easier in use I think.. but nice project!
Ok so what do you do if you want to forge weld at high altitudes? I'm building my first propane forge, single burner but want to forge weld smaller objects, and am having some troubles getting started.
by adding a piece of stainless metal screen just past the inside blue flame,it will help atomize the propane and provide a hot glowing surface to keep it lit. I'm building a waste oil/ forced air burner for a forge and it works pretty well. thanks for posting your video.
michael munson
michael munson for fairies totally unnecessary there's a thousand of these videos out I'm only about half of them these for Sherry at all of them get about the same result
Would love for you to explain exactly what it is you are trying to say so everyone reading your response..... knows exactly what you were TRYING to say. PS Having actually built several burners that were posted to TH-cam..... they are most definitely not all the same. I believe Mr. Munson was trying to help. - Your gibberish... did not Mr. clown. - @@ClownWhisper
Michael Munson I would like to know more on your waste oil burner build I have built a few very crude ones and would like to share some build ideas?
@@ClownWhisper
WTF?
What length do you recommend for the propane hose to make it safer? (sorry for all the questions, you've been extremely helpful)
I have a 10 foot hose and that is plenty far
You should put a platinum/palladium mesh inside the nozzle to keep it lit! You can reclaim some in a car catalytic converter.
can you detail for a novice please because it seems to me that the function of the platinum/palladium mesh is simply to destroy the polluting gases? your idea is interesting can you give more details please ?
@@proteo-x4u Platinum and palladium are catalysts, which means they facilitates the reaction of most (or maybe all, I'm not sure) flammable gases with oxygen. So, when you expose a catalyst to a mix of oxygen (air in this case) and a flammable gas (propane in this case), both react together, decomposing some of the flammable gas (propane decomposes to carbon dioxide and water) which heats up the catalyst. If the supply of the gas mix is constant, the catalyst will keep heating up until the gas mix burst into flames (when the flash point is reached) and will burn it before it can be decomposed.
With propane, the reaction is weaker and slower than other more volatile gases like hydrogen and methanol. Therefore, the catalyst will need to be heated before it can react with the gas mix and sustain the reaction. So, it will start to work a few seconds after the torch is lit, but should then prevent it from going out, since as long as there is propane and air passing through it, it will remain hot enough to reignite the torch.
In a car, it works same way. When the leftover hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) and other polluting/toxic gases (like carbon monoxide) passes through the catalytic converter, they react with the the oxygen left in the exhaust gases (that's why cars have to run slightly lean, so that some oxygen is left to activate the catalysis) and get decomposed to carbon dioxide (which is less polluting/toxic), water and heat. That heat keeps the catalyst at it's peak efficiency so that it will decompose gases faster. However, unlike in the torch, there is not enough oxygen for the flammable gas to burn, even if the catalyst gets hot enough.
Kanthal is a cheaper and more available material
@@drock5404 Kanthal (FeCrAl) is not a catalyst, but it is often used as the base material of catalyst-coated meshes.
Have you ever used the pressure gauge recommended by Dave on his video? On this design I don't see how the gauge would read the pressure since the propane is going through the burner (under the gauge through the T)...
i have a gauge but i dont use it much. It taps in after the needle valve but before the street elbow so it can read the pressure before mixing in the 2 in tube.
I see a lot of people making propane burners most are ok for cooking but if you need a high BTU burner you must have a liquid propane burner, and a dip tube for your propane bottle, I use to make burners for asphalt equipment we had a small burner 3 inches long by 2 inches in diameter that would produce one million BTU it was a hand burner used to heat asphalt pumps, I have built liquid propane burners that consume 800 galloons a day and required a blower like you see on truck motors so if you want high BTU go liquid
Try looking at industrial high velocity burner nozzles for ideas on making a more stable and compact flame. There are ways to design a nozzle that will keep the flame anchored with various air/fuel ratios. Using the bell reducer helps you because it is slowing the velocity of the mixture enough to provide stable combustion. One way would be to add spin to the mixture just before the anchor point, you can achieve more stability and a more compact flame.
Where do you go about finding these industrial high velocity burner nozzle designs and data
Use a speed controller on your blower motor, or partially cover the inlet, will make lighting and mixture control much easier.
i would probably run a 1/4" pipe tap into the other side of the bushing reducer so i could thread in a street elbow on the inside of the big tee... add either a nipple with a pipe cap that is drilled so you have an angled jet for the propane.. instead of just blowing it into the body of the tee .. you could slit caps or plugs to get a fan pattern.. you could even get creative and cut angles in the caps so you discharge at angles to create a spin that would blend.. just a thought..
Rubber connector is called a fernco. Commonly used in plumbing for unpressurized water. Sewage mainly is what we use them for.
It's called a Fernco mostly by plumbers, Fernco is the prime manufacture (Fernco also makes other products), it is a rubber bell coupling.
Just like Kleenex, Crescent wrench.
Hi, I just saw your very interesting video and I would be grateful if you could give me some information: what is the 2" sleeve for since I don't see it in the final realization? The gas flow is regulated by the needle valve since you haven't used any nozzle? Thank you very much will you kindly reply to me👋
Can i use galvanized fittings or will it be dangerous?
Can you please name all the pieces between the Parker Hydraulic BST-N2M and the propane hose?
dave lists them here th-cam.com/video/VxzdqcPzXj8/w-d-xo.html
Great! Again, thanks a lot for replying to my comments :) I just watched Dave's video. Do you use/need the 60 PSI regulator on your forced air design?
yeah i use it
Drill small holes in the end (hot) nozzel, and the other end where the air comes in, cut around a round piece of thin metal to fit inside the nipples and cut pie shapes lines to toward the, center stop about a half inch to center, do at least 16 cuts, then with a needle nose pliers , twist each blade about 30 degreese clockwise, repeat this one more time but twist the blades on this one counterclockwise. Insert these about 2 inches apart close to where the gas is coming in and assemble. The air will now create a vortex and mix the gas to ignite with max b t u. I tried it and it was much better.
May I get ur Facebook page so I can contact you?
Il faux un équilibre entre le gaz et le compresseur à air pour garantie la stabilité de flamme continue........merci pour votre effort bon courage
2:40 What do you use the 2in coupler for I did not see that. And why file the reducer to fit in it?
Hey! Do you know the BTU/hr of this? Or, have you tried running an entire 20lb tank empty? How long did that take? Also, would it be possible to make it portable by using a 14oz propane torch bottle? I know it wont last very long at all, but do those little bottles give enough pressure to get a big enough flame? Thanks!
I was building a similar burner based on TKOR design... I had lots of unburned gas in the kiln, and never reached copper melting temperatures. Looks like forcing air with a blower is the next thing to try...
Thank you for your video, can you give us your fan model and recommended airflow?
I am making a foundry to make wootz with a double forced air torch.
Thank you for your help
wow! that's some hardware! I saw at the end of the vid you were having some trouble lighting your torch. allot of times this is due to the torch body being too short or too much air forcing through the burner. I would suggest trying a longer nipple, maybe a 10". also be sure your torch behaves the same inside what you will be burning in, in this case a gigantic foundry lol. Allot of times it will not preform the same outside the forge as it does inside. All in all great clear vid very understandable. however I would suggest just a bit more research. not trying to be mean at all. If ya want I would be happy to give ya few pointers.
+KID18T Actually in my personal experience it's the complete opposite. The forced air burners use more gas to compete with all the air that is being forced into the mix. While the can get hotter, I find them unnecessary. I've got a torch design that is venturie that will get up to forge welding temps in no time but I can keep it a reducing environment to prevent scale. all while running at 8psi. Just my experience though. I do know forces air burners are way easier to tune.
Looks like your blower makes the mixture a bit too lean. Maybe a damper valve for the air flow? Cool design. Good idea on the quick disconnect
I like it, a leaf blower or a shop vac out put would work great too.
Think you have too much blower. Recromend putting a air adjustment on the inlet side of the blower
Great and simple build. Thank you. What kind of blower are you using?
Very good video . What diameter of the gas passage in the valve hole . THANK YOU
1/4 in
What you call a street elbow we call a m&f here in Australia
Nice build..what is the purpose of the flare on the end of the burner?
ken taylor to change the velocity and pressure of the gas to give a good burn outside of a forge.
thank you for your help.....ken
what is the benifit of a forced air burner and what application is it used
Doesn't propane and teflon react to each other? Think I remember hearing something about it 20 yrs ago when I was a plumber.
I'm not sure about propane specifically, but I do know that teflon can produce a fume when vaporized that can knock someone unconscious in seconds and kill them after that. Kinda interesting that we put it on nonstick pans huh?😋
my set up is almost like this except my 1 inch burner inserts into forge without flare. I have no problem reaching temps upward 2700 degrees. I easily melt cast iron. and heat high carbon steel white hot and workable.
what psi do you run the propane???? I'm just piecing mine together soon. I will try to regulate the forced air. I bought a 0-30 psi regulator.
Just tank pressure don't need anything fancy a screw type valve to control amount of propane and a valve to control amount of forced air that can be supplied by a blower or air compressor. Depending on size of forge/ foundry you may need more volume of air than some small compressors produce.I used a air matters blower starting out work fine for aluminum but to get higher heat I recently started using the blower connect of my shop vac if mix is adjusted properly you can reach much higher temps
I have an old inducer motor from an old high efficent furnace. should do the trick... so using a standard bbq regulator will work with the needle valve? I ordered both from amazon yesterday 😅
That could work if you get sufficient volume of heat from needle valve.
Can you share details? Thanks!
what pressure do you run the propane, what psi? do you need a needle valve and adjustable regulator?
I'm getting a 0-30 psi regulator and a needle valve... would love to know at what pressure you ran it
I run a needle valve and a 60 (i think) psi regulator open all the way. I don't know what pressure I run at though.
thank you. I have all my pieces now and I hope to test fire today. Super excited for my new hobby
What is the the reducer that we modified so it can fit in 2" coupler ? Video in 2.32 minutes
What are you using for a blower?
The Ron Reil burner from anvilfire is very stable and doesn't use much gas.
what kind of blower are you using? would a hair dryer supply a sufficient amount of air flow?
ri henry it could but i would recomend a forge blower.
For years I use an old turbine car (an ac one is so good for it). Only take care to have a butterfly plate to reduce the air flow....
CJ M trick
tricks
music on you tubes
david hancock lol what?
Im new to this type of DIY builds. Quick question: what should i look out for when concerning saftey. I have the entire torch built but im hesitate to start it. Whats the possibility of and explosion or other malfunction?
As long as the pipe is open it cannot explode. Only thing you have to worry about is if you lose power and the fan shuts down then the propane will flow back into the blower but that is why you have a quick shut off valve in the propane line.
I've made a similar forced air burner,
Outside the furnace it won't lite without the flare on the end but once inside the furnace it's unnecessary.
Can I make this same exact thing but with smaller pieces
I know its late but check my alternative th-cam.com/play/PLdPF2vF3_PMQLMfNfoo44m0SUa7YsbKmI.html
I'm having trouble igniting my burner. The pressure gauge is not moving even though tank is full (25 pounds tank), I really don't see how the pressure gauge can measure any pressure located where it is, it confuses me. Also I'm using a 12" long nipple at the end, maybe it's too long? I'm going to try changing it to a 10" long nipple and try again. Everything else is almost identical to your design and all the gauges, valves, regulator, etc are the same as yours and Dave's. Any suggestions, ideas on what might be going on?
Is it igniting then going out? If so you will have to play with the fuel air mixture and or the size of the flare. This type of burner needs some back pressure so you can try putting it in a forge and try lighting it there. If you cant smell the propane coming out then your gas line is blocked or turned off somewhere.
I got it to light once by reducing the amount of air but it went out quickly. I'll try shortening the end nipple and see what happens. I can definitely smell and see the propane coming out but I have a question, I have the 0-60 psi regulator at full pressure, how is the propane supposed to flow? Is it meant to come out with pressure? right now the gas flows with not much pressure but constantly.
I would try to use a 1in to 1.5 in flare at the end of the nipple. the flare is where the stability in atmosphere comes from. sometimes they are finicky.
Yes I have the flare installed as well. I'll try shortening the nipple and see how it goes. I'll comment the results, maybe it helps someone else.
7 psi from propane. how about the needle valve? how do you find those adjustments? like half way or just eventually it will ignite while playing with it?
Doesn't burn hotter. Just creates a turbulent flame which helps break down the barrier layer.
Es con gas natural??
By using forced air with in the torch or not, will that effect fuel consumption and how?
I use a bit less gas at the cost of portability. I have a venturi burner as well for when i want portability.
@@nickwoo2 Excess air will simply blow heat out of the furnace, rather than allowing time for the heat produced to be absorbed. Too little air and you will produce soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame is starved of air to burn the gas completely and properly.
This type of burner is premix or nozzle mix ? Sorry , im a new learner .
I would suggest a valve to regulate the airflow into the burner. If you can regulate both air and propane you can easily customise your burner to whatever purpose. I use a bypass valve system on mine. In open air it wants to blow itself out but inside tje forge it runs perfectly, with a very low gas consumption.
Yes, you need to control the airflow into the burner. Too much air and the flame will blow out, as happens in the video, and the heat is blown out of the furnace before it can be absorbed efficiently. Too little combustion air and you make soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame can't burn the gas properly and completely.
peice of 1/4 " pipe with a cap on the end and small hole drilled in it to force propane thru a larger pipe works even better and no blower necessary..
how much is the expected btu ?
you need to drill some holes in the end bell reducer....its back flowing
It's ok you can say bellend it stood out a mile what you was trying not to make it sound like. 😂
Can you help me? My burner's flame is about 1to2 inches away from the mouth of the burner. Do you know what may be causing it? Inside the forge the coolest part is right in front of the burner and the rest of it is hot as it should be.
Sounds like the flare at the end may need modifying or The speed of the fluids sounds a bit high so it is starting to combust outside of the flare. Try a different air flow and or a different flare.
@@nickwoo2 I'm gonna try using a longer pvc pipe to slow the air flow. Will it help if I prolong the burner itself?
The flame dosnt stay on because you got too much air going in. Add a valve to the air input to tune both air and gas.... the video was posted a while back so I guess you figured that out by now
to use this for natural gas, i just drill out the orifice right?
Nice burner! You may have stated this and I just missed it but what was the purpose of filing the smaller fitting to pass through the large fitting? I didn't see it as part of the lit torch.
the larger piece was welded to the forge and the smaller piece is the flare that needs to go through into the forge.
HWPcville
The reason the burner flame kept going out is that the speed of the air/gas flow exceeds the speed at which the gas burns. Slow down the air flow in particular and you wont have that problem, or the need for a flare fitting at the end of your burner.
do they have this thing's all ready for sale
ملاحظة ، أنتبه الي قدف النار و إنطفائها هادا يوحي بي أن نسبة الهواء المار داخل الشاليمو أكثر كتافة من الغاز و لهاذا الأسباب يجب الوزن بينهما يا إما نقص الهواء المنبعث من الكمبريسور أو زيادة قطر الثقب الباك ، و هادا التعديل يجعل مزان إنسجام تدفق الغاز مع الهواء متوازن لا ينبغي أن الهواء يكون قوي علي الغاز ف يقدفه بعيد علي المخرج الشاليمو و يتسبب في إنطفائها ، شكرًا جزيلا سيدي
pretty cool, think I would swap out the cast iron 1x1.25" reducer with a forged steel piece due to heat from the flame.
yeah I think a stainless flare would be good for the heat and with out of forge operations
if you put a piece that causes a little vortex at beginning of flame, you can light it more easily.
like a sink strainer?
RJ Wilson Exactly, like this one: i.ytimg.com/vi/m3o5EO7VZXw/maxresdefault.jpg
Bravo bel lavoro
Bonjour
La flamme saute - il f, diminuer la quantité de l'air
Can you tell me your propane hose set up? And also where you got the blower? I cant seem to find one.
can you run it on used oil too?
What did you adjust to get the right mixture
What psi from gas line? Is it regulated?
Good luck keeping tgat lit... Thats way too much airflow with that blower.
Once it's in the foundry it will stay lit. I agree that there should be an airflow gate to slow or increase the amount of airflow. But it will stay lit In The foundry.
How much psi does your regulator do
Great video - excellent explanation! What's the music playing?
Do you have an idea as to the CFM of the blower??
+Tom Wolfel 65
May i ask some of the specs: what CFM of the blower you've use and propane consumption? Thanks
Needs a internal cutting tip added. To mix the air to the fuel before entering the flared end. Then it would burn at about any mixture. Leaving it more reliable to staying lit. And easyer to adjust to a perfect flame when mounted in a kelm or forge. As going out like that in a closed space could get danguruse.
Would it be a mistake to use 1-1/2" fittings instead of 2"?
+chris white i don't know for a fact but i think it would work with smaller fittings.
Hey Nick, I followed your design but I'm having trouble getting my flame not to sputter. Trying to use it inside Grant Thompson's mini foundry. What psi do you run your propane at?
I don't have a pressure gauge but another fellow said to try a longer nipple like a 10 in or a different size flare to get a consistent flame in open atmosphere. mine works fine inside my forge with or without the flare. how much volume does your forge have.
Try reducing the air flow. You will get more reliable ignition and the heat produced will have time to be absorbed by the burner rather than being blown out of the furnace.
How to increase temp upto 1800degree celc
looks like it needs something to help mix the fuel and air... nice build tho!
Aaron Pratt a tesla turbine would be a good way of vortexing the fuel before the burn process
You need something to regulate the air?
change your 2 x 3/4 T for a 2 x 3/4 "rooster".....a few different types.....some have 45 degree 3/4 fitting on a 2" T.....others are an 90 degree elbow fitting elongated on one side....with a 3/4 fitting in the head...looks like a roosters head....will smooth your air-flow.....
Super, great... Thanks for this video but These ignition interruptions are not normal. This can be dangerous.
Clear explanations, I like it and Thanks
is that high temp steel or regular think the code is HE and MD been a long time since I last worked with pipe in the oilfield
Looks like just sched-40 steel that you can find at any plumbing / home improvement store.
@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire sch 40 is just the thickness probably mild steel HE is used for sour gas.....3 year old comment😄 thanks for the reply at least.
Why did you file the top
What did you do with the 1in/1.25in reducer & the 2in coupler at 2:40. You never showed what it was used for?
Probably welded the 2" coupling to the forge body to help hold the torch.
can we burnt and remove epoxy paint from iron plates ?
You'll get better flame retention if the burner cup is 2" inside diameter on a 1" pipe......
Thank you so much for the vid! What are the inside dimensions of a forge you would recommend for a burner this large?
350 cubic inches for welding temps
oops,not good if you have to keep lighting it bud!
What's the purpose of the hose on the back end? You're not forcing air down the torch via a shop vac are you?
+chris white The hose is for the forced air. I have a dedicated blower but a shop vac might work.
+chris white You can use an el-cheapo hair drier. Just hook to bridge rectifier on back of the motor. Can run on anywhere from couple of volts up to about 40 volts DC. I use a variable DC supply. Gives great air flow control especially in the forge which in my case is coal fired.
So why did you file the one end of the reducer?
Don't forget to have portable small torch on hand and some kind of cart or dolly to carry on when you want use this extra heavy home made torch/ burner.
put an iron grid inside, 10-20mm deep, flame will sit on it
Why the 2 in coupler?
What is the CFM of the blower? Do you recall where you got it?
Thanks, Tom
+Tom Wolfel www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/forge-fan-fuel/blowers.html
hey you should put the parts list below the subject and links
I put flame holders in mine and it works awesome. I use a piece of 1/2"x1/16th angle iron mounted inside the burner end with the edge of the v part pointing outward. ====0>==O kinda like this, fire coming out the O.
Great video! Thanks for posting. Suggested source for the blower you used?
+Mad Tinker www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/forge-fan-fuel/blowers.html
Excellent, thanks!
It would help if it stayed alight
What is the reason behind filing down reducer to fit inside 2" coupling? You didn't use it.
William Summers that is how I attach it to the forge. The coupling is welded to the forge
This is beautiful can you list all the parts? I'd love to build this
Where did you buy your parts?
Ferguson
Thanks
I know this video I was made a while back of it's nice to hear someone who knows but they're talking about I am a professional plumber
why not make a venturi burner instead? then you only need a gas tank. then you don't need a blower. I made a venturi burner myself, it's easier in use I think.. but nice project!
blown burners can save gas and get hotter in some applications.
As someone who currently runs forced air, I highly suggest venturi.
to add to that, blown burners work, but they can be complicated to run properly.
Eagle Bird Creations what exactly is venturi?
Eagle Bird Creations nevr mind
Ok so what do you do if you want to forge weld at high altitudes? I'm building my first propane forge, single burner but want to forge weld smaller objects, and am having some troubles getting started.
you cant use lp (liquid propane) it didnt seem right so gonna get vapor...it was spraying....fork lift tank?
charles hoover all you need to do is set the tank in a bucket of warm water if it remains solid.. adding more heat will help it expand
Look you used too big diameter for the build so the pressure is to low (too much volume reduces the pressure)