Excellent job there Brett. That's perhaps the best work one is cable to do while the yank is in situ. I have repaired fuel tanks by Mig welding them, but it's done submerged under water as fuel still resides in the metal surfaces no matter how clean one thinks they are. For my S1 I have 2 new tanks ready to go . Maybe I'll try your approach on the old S1 tanks.
Good that you got the leak stopped. I bought a similar stuff called Slosh but had to replace the tank with a new one. The car needed metal work in the surrounding areas. These jobs are horrible and I even had to break the filler cap surround to get it out the tank to remove tank from car. Luckily I managed to source a second hand filler cap and surround off eBay. One thing I found fitting a new tank, the fittings are different. There is a plug, on the tank bottom that I had to buy and it was expensive from Jag supplier. The drain plug is different and the pipe fittings you've guessed it is different which I sourced from DM Group. These are THE most frustrating cars to work on. I'm still fighting the new steering rack but that's another story.
I have used POR15 for 30 years! First, on a 1969 Jaguar XKE and on a 1962 MB 190SL! The metal today is exactly as I left it in 1994! I continued to use it on my Rolls Royces! It is an awesome product! The first time I used it, the label clearly said, " DO NOT LET PRODUCT DRY ON SKIN!" I thought sure;I know lacquer thinner will get it off! WRONG! It took about 5 days to finally rub off! As a college administrator, my faculty and students had to know what happened! The students said, "Did YOU read the directions?"
That was very interesting Brett and to repair a small pin hole a great solution let us know how it holds up over time I would think it's a permanent fix well done my XJS we were 50 miles from home and a metal pipe on the transmission split I was on a highway and had to drive 3 miles at 30 mph to get off the road it's now with my mechanic all four forward gears are ok but it would not engage reverse he has removed the pan and all the parts to get accuses to the band he hope he can adjust it enough to get reverse back if not it will have to be rebuilt it's a ZF four speed so hoping for the best it's the original box with 148,000 miles anyway fingers crossed best regards Andy Allen.
I just changed both of my fuel tanks, they had been sat for 30 years. It wasn't too bad actually. I used plastic pry bars to help move the filler cap back and fourth, lots of WD40 and eventually they lifted out.
Great job! I've heard some people use the valves for a late 80s F-150 with 2 tanks successfully in these cars as a more reliable replacement. As it's a Ford part, it's probably very cheap as well.
I have used Por 15 tank sealer quite a few times and it works well. I would have done as you basically did. I would have put some of the putty on the inside over the hole and as you did on the outside - you could get to it through the drain. Also to get over your thread blockage issue on the drain plug, fill the plug with some squashed up paper and screw it in and then do the Por 50 repair - when dry remove the plug, pull out the paper - clean around the top of the plug and around the top of the thread on he hole - great to see a pragmatic approach.
Great to have you back. I know that this is off topic but I gotta share I'm picking up my Saab aero convertible tomorrow. It got front ended by an idiot and was written off: however being a fool I've had it repaired and some and now it's ready for another hundred and four thousand miles. BTW still thrilled with the BRG X350 as you say the CATS really make it handle once you are used to the air suspension of the 'new' XJ model, it's superior to the x308 once you've got used to it😊.
Made me all misty eyed…dead ringer for my old V12 S3. Blew a water hose under the right hand exhaust manifold and overheated. Replaces hose and gave it a crack and it was fine. These ain’t as fragile as the 6 I reckon. Only downer was the gearbox…really needed a 4 or 5sp auto
Great solution Brett. No good making a job harder for yourself than necessary. I wonder if a lot of this trouble comes from owners using one tank only and refilling that and the fuel in the other tank just sits there and absorbs water??? Best to switch tanks occasionally and give both a run???
I remember when driving my S3 XJ12, the tanks emptied themselves into the engine quite quickly, so you needed them both on a long drive. I used to swap them over when one got to half full, so the weight was balanced.
@@petem85793 That sounds like a good plan. No experience with Jags. but I have a Rover P6B with a reserve. All it is is an outlet a bit lower in the tank. If you run out of fuel you just pull a knob and it opens up this lower outlet to give you more fuel. I pull mine out regularly and drive it for 10 minutes on a run and then push it back in. Keeps everything clear and operating. Others always seem to have trouble with this but I never have.
Just take of the bumper and do the job properly you can't boge petrol tanks so take it out put and put an exhaust pipe in the tank from a diesel and let the diesel fumes clean out the petrol and then mig welding a patch on
Great update, really good to see this lovely "Gold Sovereign" getting its final fettling and being all it can be !
Excellent job there Brett. That's perhaps the best work one is cable to do while the yank is in situ. I have repaired fuel tanks by Mig welding them, but it's done submerged under water as fuel still resides in the metal surfaces no matter how clean one thinks they are. For my S1 I have 2 new tanks ready to go . Maybe I'll try your approach on the old S1 tanks.
I really enjoyed your videos of resurrecting the S3. Would love to see a driving video now it seems tip top.
Nicely done fella 👏 I've used Por 15 in motorcycle tanks before and it's always worked well. That's a beautiful S3, by the way
Good that you got the leak stopped. I bought a similar stuff called Slosh but had to replace the tank with a new one. The car needed metal work in the surrounding areas. These jobs are horrible and I even had to break the filler cap surround to get it out the tank to remove tank from car. Luckily I managed to source a second hand filler cap and surround off eBay. One thing I found fitting a new tank, the fittings are different. There is a plug, on the tank bottom that I had to buy and it was expensive from Jag supplier. The drain plug is different and the pipe fittings you've guessed it is different which I sourced from DM Group. These are THE most frustrating cars to work on. I'm still fighting the new steering rack but that's another story.
I have used POR15 for 30 years! First, on a 1969 Jaguar XKE and on a 1962 MB 190SL! The metal today is exactly as I left it in 1994! I continued to use it on my Rolls Royces! It is an awesome product! The first time I used it, the label clearly said, " DO NOT LET PRODUCT DRY ON SKIN!" I thought sure;I know lacquer thinner will get it off! WRONG! It took about 5 days to finally rub off! As a college administrator, my faculty and students had to know what happened! The students said, "Did YOU read the directions?"
Great, comment, thanks, Richard
That was very interesting Brett and to repair a small pin hole a great solution let us know how it holds up over time I would think it's a permanent fix well done my XJS we were 50 miles from home and a metal pipe on the transmission split I was on a highway and had to drive 3 miles at 30 mph to get off the road it's now with my mechanic all four forward gears are ok but it would not engage reverse he has removed the pan and all the parts to get accuses to the band he hope he can adjust it enough to get reverse back if not it will have to be rebuilt it's a ZF four speed so hoping for the best it's the original box with 148,000 miles anyway fingers crossed best regards Andy Allen.
Hope your mechanic gets your gearbox sorted, good luck!
@@tjmthejagmandownunder Thank you Brett much appreciated Andy Allen
I just changed both of my fuel tanks, they had been sat for 30 years. It wasn't too bad actually. I used plastic pry bars to help move the filler cap back and fourth, lots of WD40 and eventually they lifted out.
Really enjoyed this video, great pragmatic advise and it got the job done.
Cheers! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Great job! I've heard some people use the valves for a late 80s F-150 with 2 tanks successfully in these cars as a more reliable replacement. As it's a Ford part, it's probably very cheap as well.
I have used Por 15 tank sealer quite a few times and it works well. I would have done as you basically did. I would have put some of the putty on the inside over the hole and as you did on the outside - you could get to it through the drain. Also to get over your thread blockage issue on the drain plug, fill the plug with some squashed up paper and screw it in and then do the Por 50 repair - when dry remove the plug, pull out the paper - clean around the top of the plug and around the top of the thread on he hole - great to see a pragmatic approach.
I like your idea of filling the plug with paper, good idea!
Great to have you back. I know that this is off topic but I gotta share I'm picking up my Saab aero convertible tomorrow. It got front ended by an idiot and was written off: however being a fool I've had it repaired and some and now it's ready for another hundred and four thousand miles. BTW still thrilled with the BRG X350 as you say the CATS really make it handle once you are used to the air suspension of the 'new' XJ model, it's superior to the x308 once you've got used to it😊.
Good work Andrew
Replace both tanks in a series 1 years ago, had to chain block the rear end up high enough to get them out, very difficult on the angle
Forgot you had a S3 😊
Of course the replacement cut-off valve leaked! Groan. It takes all the fun out of it if it's too easy.
Made me all misty eyed…dead ringer for my old V12 S3. Blew a water hose under the right hand exhaust manifold and overheated. Replaces hose and gave it a crack and it was fine. These ain’t as fragile as the 6 I reckon. Only downer was the gearbox…really needed a 4 or 5sp auto
Agree maybe change the gearbox one day!
Great solution Brett. No good making a job harder for yourself than necessary. I wonder if a lot of this trouble comes from owners using one tank only and refilling that and the fuel in the other tank just sits there and absorbs water??? Best to switch tanks occasionally and give both a run???
Hi Peter Could be, but in my case the car sat for 7 years unused. The amount of rust in the tanks was unbelievable
I remember when driving my S3 XJ12, the tanks emptied themselves into the engine quite quickly, so you needed them both on a long drive. I used to swap them over when one got to half full, so the weight was balanced.
@@petem85793 That sounds like a good plan. No experience with Jags. but I have a Rover P6B with a reserve. All it is is an outlet a bit lower in the tank. If you run out of fuel you just pull a knob and it opens up this lower outlet to give you more fuel. I pull mine out regularly and drive it for 10 minutes on a run and then push it back in. Keeps everything clear and operating. Others always seem to have trouble with this but I never have.
Just take of the bumper and do the job properly you can't boge petrol tanks so take it out put and put an exhaust pipe in the tank from a diesel and let the diesel fumes clean out the petrol and then mig welding a patch on
Thanks for the idea, but I'm trying to show how to fix this in situ.