Dry your PLA and Nylon 3d printer filaments the easy and cheap way. Build a chamber in 10 minutes!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 เม.ย. 2024
- In this video I quickly and easily show you how I dry my filament. Its easy and you can get started in less than an hour with your own test. I also show you how I make my own color change silica gel bags. If you dry your filament with your bag you can see in real time the condition of the filament as its drying to know when you're all done.
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Quick warning. Don't dry the PLA at 70 celcius try 40-50 Celsius first and tweak from there. Off camera I have a fluke meter the box is usually 5-10 Celsius cooler than the plate. Good luck.
Hey dude, it just occurred to me that you might want to talk to a patent attorney…..
@@ColdHawk Thank you, I actually did but the way things are that its so hard to enforce if someone steals it. I know someone who had a patent on something for the golf industry. It was stolen and copied and the people who stole it took HIM to court! 🤔
I love seeing a method that makes me go, “why the fahk didn’t I think of that!?!?” Sometimes it’s the simplest solutions that require real genius. Well done brother!
Bro…I am jus amazed with this simple solution! Thanks!!!!
Update, I tried this with my super wet PETG and all the bubbles are completely gone. I set my ender 3 bed to 70c for 5.5 hrs and put a metal kitchen pot over the filament. To stop the pot from acting like a heatsink I put a towel over it like a blanket. when I stopped drying the filament, the towel was warm and the top of the metal pot felt about the same temp as the bed. Thanks so much!! You saved this filament and saved me money on having to buy a filament dryer. If there's a way to donate a lil tip to you let me know!
No tip needed your comment inspires me. Thank you!
Did you also put silica gel?
@@temsuwatiao7426 No, I didn't add anything else in there. It worked fine without it. If you have silica gel that absorbed a bunch of moisture i bet this would work to dry it out too though.
@@temsuwatiao7426 the silica gel is mostly to confirm the filament has dried
I was thinking about doing this. I just needed someone to confirm my idea wasn't that stupid. Lol
Same here, I was looking at dryers and thought....if my oven could do about 50 or 70 degrees for a couple of hours. 😂
You really solved my problem with my wet fillas and wet sillicas. I was about to buy either a small oven, or those brand dryers. Thx a lot man.
dont use an oven microwave 1 minute will do it in well 1 minute oven takes hours trust me youll see inside of your microwave wet glass ext moist it works fast but dont touch the beads they stick when hot youll have 100 stuck to your hand wishing you handt touched them.. then let them sit for 2 minutes to cool and put back in your container also the blue and orange ones are toxic dont let them be on your counter with kids animals or 1 bead get into a sandwhich or something because you spilled always clean up
You deserve much more credit for this.. wow thanks
A true statement! This should go viral in the 3D printing community!
Great idea with the silica packs!
Hey bro thank you so much for the trick, you saved me an entire new spool that I needed it for a job, hope you are doing well
Really clever dude!
The hot glue paper towel trick made me go "doh". Good trick there. It's worth a video on it's own, or at least one of those 15 second youtube "shorts"
Dude, I really like this idea!
@@iheart3dprinting951 I don't know if I have a hot glue gun anymore, but if I do I'm definitely doing this. There are 3d printable dessicant containers but they are a pain and take forever to print and are a waste of filament after seeing this simple solution. How well do the bags hold up to the microwave? I'd imagine the ziplock material would melt. Have you considered using a sous-vide type bag?
@@paulgupta1132 I dont use the bags in the microwave I only wanted to see if it would do anything it can burn the paper if I recall. The bags hold up but periodically the hot glue will delaminate from the sandwich bag material I think that is how I learned they will steam. (I just heated it up to reglue it) I think I am going to just fold a napkin in half. LOL You can see if its still blue or pink by holding up to light. Will make a neat short video. Thank you.
@@iheart3dprinting951 that's a solid idea. I actually just broke down and bought a food dehydrator as a 2 year 3d printer user who now uses a prusa most days at my job as well. (figured it's a work expense at this point lol) so my days of hoping I'm not damaging my bed with this method are over but I'm still hunting for a better method to use/reuse silica gels. my office is actually across the hall from a POOL. So....humidity is a problem. ambient is like 45-50%
Very inventive solution, I was just looking in to drying filament, maybe there's an easy option after all, thank you for sharing.
Dude this is awesome thanks so much
You are a genius!!! Thank you for this!
Very clever ... I like the aluminium idea to wick the hear up a little off the bed.
brilliant !!!
Great idea!
You are awesome...i cant think of this method... but now im trying it with dry rice..since silica gel is hard to find in my country...Good Job dude!!
Did it work?
I’d like to see more on ur printer construction. Thanks on the drying filament part. You know sometimes your looking for that silver bullet and you find out it’s staring you in the face. Thanks
Thank you, I really have gotten discouraged by the community. Many people have a insane focus on price of the machine I made is fairly expensive relative to what the Chinese offer. Also TH-cam reviewers (in all niches, from solar to woodworking) themselves are HEAVILY focused on inexpensive bottom of the barrel items with an affiliate link. They will make a video about a $200 welder that "sorta works" then have a link to it and scrape 3% off the sale and other ancillary purchases as well. They make a MASSIVE living off this. So it makes many inventors, engineers and grass roots makers kinda throw in the towel which is where I am kind of at too. I went to the rep rap festival in October, it was basically hundreds of ender 3s. Thank you for subscription and the comment though, it makes me have faith and motivation.
@@iheart3dprinting951 - Hey, as the (very) frustrated owner of a new Ender 6, let me say keep on doing what you are doing! I have a feeling that within 3 years the only thing left of the original Ender 6 in my basement will be the aluminum frame as I slowly and painfully replace components that fail or simply do not work optimally, one by one. There is the cost and then there are the costs.
yeah man good tips i subbed
I laughed out loud.
So stupidly simple. Genius, love it.
also you seem like an awesome dude, from reading the comments. Keep being amaZing
Totally stupid solution! So stupid that I couldn’t imagine it before…so if it is a stupid idea, how stupid am I? Hahahaha…this guy is a genius!
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, can i do with airtight container, or do i need some hole for the moisture to evaporate out of the container? as you use box that is not airtight
It does not need to be airtight but thick enough to hold heat and insulate. a small air hole is good idea to let the humidity out.
What can i use to prop up my filament spool so that it doesnt melt into the bed?
Silica is the little bag all fillament come with?
I pushed 9 holes on the top and left a tiny space on the bottom to get fresh dry air in and let the saturated air out as hot air rises. Do you really need the aluminium foil to reflect heat or is it smarter to leave uncoated cardboard surface inside which absorb moisture?
I think you could probably achieve the same results without the foil. I do think foil works as a heat reflector, but since its a hot plate that will sustain itself at sustained temperature maybe its not needed.
So are you heating the bed? To what temp?
For PLA you want 40-50C. For the Nylons I use 70C
Cool! 🤠
What’s the difference between this method and putting it in an oven?
(Except the obvious that you don’t need an oven here, just use your printer instead).
The typical oven oscillates between really hot and all the way off. This is ok for food, but something that could soften or melt when a precise temp temp is reached (like a thermoplastic). Our printer beds use PID or PWM or BANG tuned temps where the plate itself is very close to a steady set temp and won’t blast the item with massive heat then no heat like how our ovens work. I hope I made sense. Gas ovens are considerably higher risk as well. Your not likely to melt your or deform your spool using a printer and leave the spool unattended longer. Good luck.
Conventional ovens fluctuate way more than you would expect. I did a series of experiments with ours to see if I could use it to temper forged steel. That would have required holding a temperature of right around 425°F for a couple of hours for each cycle. I found the actual temperature in the oven swung from extremes of around 350° all the way up to 460°, which would have softened the steel too much. With a higher quality oven you might get better control and I would speculate that electric may be better than gas in terms of keeping a tight range. Also, for my gas oven the lowest temperature I can set it to bake is 170°F (76.6°C) making it pretty useless for this application!
So what temp did you heat the bed to?
It’s at 3:44 in the video.
Once you dry the filament how long does it stay dry for?
If you seal it up and put a desiccant with it it may still get wet but not as quickly in a sadwhich bag or Rubbermaid tub. I think its better to plan ahead and have a drying plan.
If your serious about storing dry filament get a food sealer with the ribbed vacuum bags and put a bag of colored desiccant in there to track its moisture level. The food bag sealers are not expensive and very accessible.
What kind of camera did you you in this video
Iphone XS and a DJI Osmo 2 Gimbal with the Filmic Pro App.
is the silica nessesary to use to dry my pla?
No just give a sight reference as well as rejuvenated the silica. But not needed.
Ha....I wonder if you can just leave the silica gel out and dry the filament that way.
Yes at first I didnt have silica I would just toast the filament for a few hours and go at it and it works. For PLA use a lower temp like 40-50 BTW.
Could you make this any easier?? :) Thanks!! Unfortunately I'll have to use a different "magic box" since my "kids" are older than you so I don't have that kind of "magic box". Maybe an Amazon "magic box"?? LOL Thanks!!
Amazon magic boxes work amazingly. And there are no shortage. LOL Remember for PLA start low and work your way up! Nylons and other materials can handle the heat! BTW remember the aluminum foil at the end. I think some people click off it before seeing that.
@@iheart3dprinting951 - I have an old emergency blanket made of Mylar that is looking like it might need to be cannibalized! I guess it will reflect more heat than foil so I will start at the lower end. Really brother, thank you so much for pointing this out. It’s great to realize I have everything I need to dry spools already in my basement staring me in the face!!
are the aluminium pieces compulsory???
Absolutely not. They do create more surface area for heat to climb and radiate from. But not needed.
papertowl can be a bit fragile, I supposed you can try non-woven cloths like those mask fabric that's everywhere because of the pandemic. They are actually plastic and won't break apart because of moisture.
Thats a good idea.
Have you actually tested the weight of the filament before and after to see if you got any humidity out of it? What makes you so sure it is not simply humidity from the air that you get in the silica... your box is not airtight... also if you heat up the filament, why do you need the silica at all? make a few holes and have a bit of air circulation...
I am not sure of you exact point or questioning. LOL Obviously heat is a way to remove moisture. I know it works because I print before, and then I print after. The results speak for themselves. The blue silica is for storing in a bag when the filament is not in use. It changes colors when it absorbs water. The blue silica also allows me to gauge when my filament is done drying if they are dried together.
i dont get it. you just leave it outside and it dries? how is that different from leaving it out and your nylon absorbs water? did you use the heated bed? you didnt mention that... :/
At 3:43 he discusses the temperature setting he used for the build plate. I think his point is that we all already have a tightly (relative to your average oven) temperature controlled heat source. Simply creating an enclosure which retains heat that is convectively transferred and reflects radiated heat (a foil lined box) allows one to dry spools of filament without any extra equipment at all. The silica may help by absorbing any moisture driven out of the filament but subsequently dries also, and the color change allows one to judge that the filament will be dry. Cheers!
Why you are using the toxic blue silica? You should get the ORANGE color which is not toxic.
Is orange color non-toxic ? Orange one have indicator too.
Run it in the oven for a few minutes ...done..I would not run my bed to dry the filament...
Many ovens have a minimum temperature setting that's too high to be useful for filament drying (often ~170F). Also not sure how this would damage the bed. These beds are designed to run for several hours at a time on a regular basis.