Steve you absolute legend !!! I could not get anyone to fix my roof for the last 3 years which was like having a can without an opener until I watched your video and with your advice followed this video and fixed my roof . My back window catching which I will sort tomorrow but for the first time in years I have a folding roof ... I thank you so much for your help !! JK from Galway , Ireland
John kelleher , that’s great man ! They are so much more fun to drive with the convertible open for sure...my wife won’t drive hers with the top closed unless it’s raining so she opens and closes hers constantly and it gets a workout, lol. If it has not been used for several years, it may give some faults on the segment sensors after it starts getting opened and closed like normal again, but the other videos on the channel cover a lot of the normal problems. I’m always glad to hear the videos helped some 👍...just let me know if you encounter an issue and have a question. All the best to you sir ! Steve
Steve’s DIYs ... if you don’t mind to send me your address via email ..., I would like to send you a bottle with my appreciation !! johnkelleher31@hotmail.com
I had motor issues and replaced it using this video and an X1 sunroof motor(same motor) from a scrap car. This video saved me the equivalent of $1000 in parts and labour. You sir are a legend.
Thanks man and glad the videos are a help 👍. When I first started working on mine (the one in most of the videos with the black interior) I couldn’t find any info on how to fix them so I figured making videos might help others out. The car with the brown interior in this video is actually a guy’s car that found the TH-cam channel and figured out I was only a few hours away from him when he saw my old vehicle license plates hanging on the garage wall, lol. All the best and thanks again for letting me know the videos help 👍, Steve
Thank you very much for an excellent video footage. I would have thought even BMW will have issues with removing the back window unit. Unfortunately those plastic gears should not have been used in the motor as with time they do crack similar to any other devices in the kitchen or house hold in general. I never understood WHY would a manufacture STILL using these plastic in ALL motors?. I have BMW650I 2007, convertible and I would absolutely hate having to go through the procedure. You are such a great person. I have watched few of your videos for knowledge but mechanical issues would surely have the local garage deal with but at least I know how much works needs to be done. I love my BMW650I, it was bought new 16 years back. Had issues with AC, engine pan leakage etc BUT was done under the warranty when the car was less than 5 years old. Since I am having the car fixed at local garages as agent charges x 4 times in most cases. I have been driving the 6 series for the last 35 years and just love it. There is NO other sports car on the road which can replace the 6 series. Your video footage always clear and consistent basically even amateurs will understand or get some knowledge. Well I guess We all understand the time and effects put into finalising these videos for us to understand the complications and frustrations in order for us to see end results. Thank you and God bless.
Hello, thanks for the kind words…much appreciated ! Yes, when I first got the 650i, I couldn’t find any information on how to repair issues with the convertible top so I figured making some videos about repairing them might help other owners. Like you said, many people choose not to work on them and prefer to take them to a reputable repair shop, but at least the videos show what the issue could be and the steps to disassemble and repair. This way people feel better about the charge they receive for the repair as they know what amount of work it took. Some repair shop owners comment that they use these videos to help them when they are not familiar with the specific vehicles, lol ! I agree that the 6 series BMW’s are my favorite as well. The 650i is actually my wife’s car (the black one with the black interior seen in many of the videos) and I own the V10 M6 coupe version as well. The style and handling of them is really nice for sure. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I just wanted to express my thoughts and appreciation to you for these wonderful videos. Also I want to add, your excellent video footage is shown to mechanic in the garage before I would let them start working. SO they understand what to expect. Because I have been driving 6 series for the last 35 year and lately the BMW650I 2007 when there weren’t many local garages except the agent. In Bahrain the BMW agent charges for example changing the Micro filter “AC” $200 where am purchasing the filter for $20 and labor $5. SO cost max $25 SO basically 10% of agent charges. It’s all thanks 🙏 to your video footage. These BMW650I seems to have transmission issues with valve body! Unfortunately they don’t repair locally but it’s always replacing the whole transmission at a cost of $1200-1500. Through my experience with the 6 series repairs of existing is better than replacement specially transmission and engine. We get used large parts from Japan through Dubai. My car is silver with red interior. Lately I had issue with the armrest console! Suddenly I noticed the trunk and console won’t open. SO I had to use the key in the fob remote to dismantle both from the central locking system. The trunk is working BUT the armrest console latch is stuck for the last 3 weeks. Tried with the key positioned in the back armrest console turning left, right and center but no results. Took the car to two garages they said the might need to remove the whole box to see the wiring etc. Despite all issues 35 years on STILL feel the BMW650I are MORE handsome sports car BMW ever made. My daughter has BMW640i 2014. She is happy as she had Camera RS few years ago but think the BMW640I gran coupe special edition “pearl” mate white is just as fast and more stable on the road. IF you or other viewers have any idea how to get the armrest console to open? It would be appreciated. God bless.
Brilliant video - thanks Steve. My 645 roof only got as far as opening the windows. Followed the video and discovered that my hall sensor was completely corroded. Replaced the hall sensor and the problem all but disappeared. To completely resolve I found that I also needed to adjust the allen screw in the fin as per one of your other videos (screwed out by about 3/4 of a turn) as roof initially would not fully close. As I was only needing to replace the hall sensor and not adjust the rear window motor I was able to do this without removing the window glass from the clamps - bit fiddly but possible. The other thing I discovered (as I was really struggling to separate the two halves of the roll bar covers) is that by undoing the three screws you can lift off the whole assembly.
David Lockwood , thanks for the comment 👍...glad the videos helped get yours working again. That’s good to know that the hall sensor can be replaced without taking the glass out, that was one of the tougher parts (getting the glue loose to slip it out of the lift brackets 👍👍). All the best ! ,Steve
Hi Steve. New subscriber here Chris. ..Very impressed with your knowledge and quality of craftsmanship!. I own an 08 M6 convertible which I take very good care ..only 76k miles. The rear window when I push the button to open the convertible does not start to go down. I have to push the button again and again because it goes down about couple inches with every push if the button. Once the window is down then the convertible mechanism goes to work and opens up. To close the top I press on the button and the top starts to move and closes. The rear window is down still. I have to use the side door control rear window button.. Press it again 3 to 4 times to raise the window a little bit at the time u til is fully closed. My car was fine until I took it to a so called local expert for changing the amplifier, tuner, satellite units and change all speakers. Water had got to the trunk and shorted these units. It happened at the BMW dealer where it was left outside under an oak tree..the drains got clogged and water entered the button of the trunk..not a lot but enough to short out these stereo units. When I took it to his shop the convertible and rear window was working fine. I had the top down and then closed it when I left him the car. . When I went to pick up the vehicle it had this window problem along with a new problem the ABS malfunction. Later I came to realization that The shop owner head expert mechanic was a crook, he wanted to milk my extended warranty co by rigging jobs on my car to do. My car was at his shop over 5 months. I picked up my car with heavy heart. This man made $7000 from my auto insurance company and left me with new problems to go home. I didn't want to leave the car to him any longer after 5 months in his shop. My extended warranty went out of business and I had to eat the ABS part replacement just today.. 2 other shops do not know what is wrong with my rear window and my local FL BMW needed over $700 to start diagnostics. Sorry for my long winded message but I thought other subscribers might benefit from this story . Please let me know what I should do to do it myself and what items might be going bad. Thank you kindly! Chris
Chris Sakelariou , hey man ! Wow ! That’s a bad deal all the way around from both them leaving it out and getting water in it and the guy trying to milk the warranty...The BMW with the cream colored interior in some if the videos was the same way (mine is the one with the black interior)...it had been to several shops for the convertible top not working and each one messed up more and more on the car. I spent more time fixing their damage than fixing the actual problem (the corroded hall sensor). The good news for yours is that it sounds like the convertible top still works fine so that means the Convertible top module doesn’t have any issues 👍. It gets a signal from the Body Control Module (BCM) to let it know the rear back window is down from the hall sensor in the window system so that’s why the top movement waits until the window is totally down before beginning the movement. The rear window’s movement is controlled by the Body Control Module ( under the passenger glove box beside the interior wall). Since it sounds like both pushing the top open (or close) buttons and the driver door rear window button are requiring the same multiple pushes to get the window to inch it’s way down, it sounds like all of the communication is also at least working to the BCM (good news too 👍). This seems to leave either something interrupting the signal from the buttons to the BCM or something mechanical. The back window’s motor only knows that the window is all the way up or has made it all the way down by sensing the current spike when it hits the travel stops. It might be that it’s dragging, one of the cables got rusty, or the motor is going bad...so the motor is working too hard and telling the computer it thinks it reached the travel stops. An easy way to check this would be to lower it down a little so you could get your hand on top if it, then have someone push the lowering button on the driver door while you push down on it to give the motor some help to lower the window. If it will continue to go down by helping it, I would say somethings wrong in the rear window module. If helping it go down doesn’t change anything in how far it will travel before stopping, I would say there’s something breaking the communication that’s gonna require getting the INPA software or something to be able to see the switch signals and force the computer to make the movements to see why it is not thinking it should move the window. Maybe give helping the window go down with your hand (and a helper to push the button while doing it) and see what that does first then let me know how that goes. Steve
Hi from Poland. Thx for video. I may have noticed that this is the cause of the rear window going down, but not in one go. I have to use the button about 4-5 times before I can get the window to go all the way down or up.
Hey ! Yep, if the motor is getting weak or the tracks that guide the glass get dirty or sticky, the motor senses that it has reached it’s maximum allowable current draw and shuts off (basically how it knows that it has reached the top or bottom of the normal travel as it uses the current draw to determine when it hits the travel stops).
Steve want to thank you I definitely helping a relative with that 650i but no back window. Your video and your detail explanation was will put. Definitely got me to do it. So huge thanks, would you happen to know exactly how to fix the electrical steering button for the steering wheel. It just stop working.
Thanks and glad the video was helpful 👍. For the electrical steering button, I’m not sure which one you are referring to. If you can comment back with some more details on what the button does or looks like (location or maybe the symbol on it), I might be able to look up what the issue might be. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
It’s the button on the steering wheel to bring it down, up, back and forth. To your liking for driving. The cover won’t snap back in. I’m like errr Beamer problems lol. Again thanks for reaching back out
@@curbsidecustom6148 ah, I have had the steering column buttons stop responding before, but all I did was disconnect the battery for about 20 mins and they started working again lol so I’m actually not sure what caused the issue.
Hi Steve, thank you for the videos and responding to my question about hall sensors and their locations. I reviewed most of your outstanding videos. I have a 2012 650i. When I lower top from the down from (closed) position. Everything works well, right up until it starts to lower into the trunk then it freezes. When i turn the ignition off then through gravity it lowers itself. The light comes on and top does not close. I have to raise the top manually 1/2 up then press my key hold it down then the top closes and locks into place all windows including back works up and down. BMW said it is a hall effect sensor.
No problem…glad to help some 👍. From your description, it sounds like all of the Hall effect sensors are working as, usually when they go bad, they go totally bad and then the soft top won’t function at all. Sometimes they will get knocked out of position, but usually this will also prevent the top from cycling even if moved manually and then tried again. It’s hard to know without seeing the error on the computer, but it sounds more like the driver side (US Models) wing’s segment sensor is not reading the correct position so it is just stopping since it cannot verify that the wings are up to be able to move to the next step and lower it into the compartment. One way to check the segment sensor for the wings is to have someone sit in the car and retract the soft top until it stops due to the issue (continue to press and hold the button even after the movement stops due to the issue). Then, while they are still pressing the button, wiggle the driver side wing up and down a little and see if it will hit the correct segment and then start to move again. If it does try to move (even if just a little and then stops until you wiggle it again), I would say that this sensor has gone bad. You may have seen this other video on the channel, but just in case, here’s a link to it as well. At the 3:00 minute mark in this video, you can see the segment sensor and also that it has to be on the correct segment to move on to the next step in the sequence: th-cam.com/video/0aGmCzuROvA/w-d-xo.html . Hopefully it is just this segment sensor giving problems (it is very common on these) as it it easy to replace and not very expensive. If the trial for wiggling the wing doesn’t make it move or act differently, just let me know and we can look for other things to check 👍. Oh, there is also a segment sensor on the overall soft top mechanism (down in the bottom of the compartment on the driver’s side by the thin cylinders that lift the compartment lid), but I have never seen this one go bad. Wiggling the all of the soft top would allow this one to possibly move to the correct segment and continue if it was having problems. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, thank you for the response and suggestions. I tried the recommendations and the top does not stow, only stops before stowing. I was wondering I would like to get your opinion if I should check the harness to see if wires may have broken where the frame bends?
@@alltheway007 , hello, sorry the top is still not working. Indeed it would be a good idea to check the wiring to see if it has been damaged. In one of the videos on the channel (I cannot remember which one though), I show where my wires were damaged at one of the hinge points on the soft top and I had to repair the wire insulation 👍.
Steve, Great video. I followed each step and found that the motor is very difficult to turn and even stops until I move the rotor by hand. BUT - where did you get the replacement motor? I have been on line, chats and phone and nobody has one. Any ideas?
Thanks man 👍. For getting the part numbers for these (and other BMWs), I always go to a website called RealOEM.com as they have most all of the OEM part numbers listed for the parts. For the motor part number, once you are on their webpage, just fill in the information for your particular vehicle (note that the ones beginning with 6’ are the 6 Series on the list if you don’t use the vin ID option), then click on the “Sliding Roof / Folding Top” section, then the “Folding Top - Rear Window” section and you’ll see the item list with the picture. The motor is Item #7…new ones are getting crazy expensive it seems though (you can almost buy a complete used rear window module for the price of just a new motor lol). Also note that you can Google the superseded part shown on RealOEM and sometimes you can find one by the old part number being sold. Hope this help a bit and all the best ! Steve
Great video! Thanks! Got mine all apart and the hall sensor is absolutely at fault...it's so corroded it's actually in 2 pieces! Where can I get a replacement sensor?? I'm not having any luck online...Thanks!!
Hey man ! Glad the video helped 👍. Sounds like you may have found the problem for sure as without the hall sensor signal the top won’t do much of anything. For parts, I usually go to a site called RealOEM.com as they have the schematics for most of the BMWs. For the sensor, it should be P/N: BMW 61318378940 if yours is an ‘06 to ‘10 e64 (item #15 in the schematic). RealOEM doesn’t sell stuff anymore, but the part number can be googled to get one from the online parts places. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi, I have a problem with my bmw 650 I 2007 , the rear window don’t roll down it’s stuck up what do I have to do to replace the motor when I can’t open my top convertible because the window don’t rolled down , all the athers window work half way when I trying to open the top except the one on the back and the bottom light from the convertible keeps blinking, please if you can give me and advise what to do , by the way I love all your videos very helpful.
Thanks man ! Glad the videos help some 👍. You can actually lower the rear window manually in order to be able to manually open the top. Here’s a link to another video on the channel that shows how to crank it down manually...be sure to go slow when cranking as it can strip the gears if not careful: th-cam.com/video/rNj3J9f0yfE/w-d-xo.html . Hope it helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve I watched your video over and over in last few days whilst dismantling the window on my 645Ci but currently I'm facing a problem the reason for my window not to work turned out to be that I'm not getting any power to the big connector located underneath the panel next to rear right window. I checked all the fuses and relays they all working power is reaching the fuse box buttons for lowering and raising are working but I still don't get any power the connector which should be powering up the windows, the heater for defrosting in winter and the hall sensor I really need help please please please
Hi Steve, great videos! I have a 2008 M6 and my top had been working great till last summer when my girl friend spilled something on the top open/ close switches. The top would still function initially but soon after I was lucky to get it closed one last time. Now the green light doesn't function, no red either. Any thoughts on where to start?
Thanks man ! Yep, that’s happened to me before on another BMW I had for the DSC and parking sensor button. I had to remove the trim piece and remove the buttons (disconnect them from the car wiring), then dip them in rubbing alcohol and actuate the buttons until it washed the sticky drink out. After that I blew them out with compressed air (or PC keyboard spray cleaner if you don’t have an air compressor) and let them sit in a sunny window to dry them out. For the soft top buttons on these, I don’t believe they have fuses tied to them since they only link to the convertible top module but, if after cleaning, they still won’t light up and move the top, I’d check the fuses in the glove box and trunk to see if any have blown. Hope this helps and let me know what you determine…I always like to hear what the fix ended up being 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, great video! My window works but moves in approx 2” increments, does this mean I need a new motor? How do you lift the roof manually to get to the hydraulic motor to take it off? Cheers Mate 😀 Calv
Thanks ! There’s another video on the channel on how to manually put the soft top over the car so to retract it, you would basically follow the same procedure, but in reverse (starting with 1st lowering the rear window at least half way and then manually unlatching it from the top of the windshield and then opening the compartment manually and putting it in. For the window only going down in increments, if it not making a terrible grinding noise as it inches down, it may just be that the tracks that guide the glass are sticky or dirty so the motor is hitting it’s max current limit and stopping (it uses the max current limit to know that it is fully down or fully up when it hits the travel end stops). Here’s a link to the other video: th-cam.com/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zuuzW64qNEdC96tW I’m not 100% sure, but you may be able to just remove the plastic trim that is over the rear window module and spray some non-hardening lube in the tracks and see if it will go back to operating normally (you may have to take the rear head rests off to get the trim off, but 100% sure about that either since it’s been several years since it did the video. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for the reply, this is super helpful 😊 how do you reengage the mechanism after you’ve done the job to make the roof work automatically again after you’ve done the job? Cheers Calv
@CA-bo2pj hey again ! If everything is working properly with all if the sensors, once the soft top is retracted and in the compartment and the compartment lid is lowered back down, pressing the soft top retract button in the center console will make it complete the cycle and go back on to automatic mode. If for some reason there is still a sensor that is erroring on the soft top or rear window, to latch the compartment back until you can determine the issue you have to manually push the compartment hydraulic cylinders forward as they are also what does the latching. Here’s a video for that as well on how to access it the cylinder ends and push them back to latch the compartment: th-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=97d7JUSUoUYHe1AN
Hey man ! The BMW part number for the rear window module glass should be 61318378940. For parts for these (and any other BMW for the most part) there’s a website called “RealOEM.com” that has schematics for the parts of the cars. Once you get to the landing screen, select your specific car (or type in your VIN) and it will take you to the different parts and systems of the vehicle. For the rear window module diagram, go to the “sliding roof/folding top” section, then to the “folding top - rear window module” section…the Hall effect sensor it called a “switch” and is item #15. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
thank you for my problem I manage to open and close the 5 windows normally but if I want to open the electric hood nothing happens I have the green button flashing and it tells me on the dashboard "emergency control" according to the diagnosis it is also the effect hall sensor when dismantling the glass, do you also have to buy the glass support kit for reassembling the glass?
Hello, when I did mine, I was careful to just cut the adhesive from the glass support tabs and reused them. If a kit is available and it is not too expansive, it might be worth getting it as part of the rebuild, but I didn’t have any issues after the rebuild using the original glass mounts. Thanks and all the best ! Steve
Mine is a 2008, and im going to change both the motor and hall sensor just so i wont need to take this apart again. Any chance you have a part number for the hall sensor?....dealer cant seem to find it.
Hey man, yep, the dealers really struggle with info (and how to diagnose and fix these soft top e64’s ) for sure it seems…pretty bad that dealing with and fixing the issues has to now fall on us DIY’ers lol ! For the rear window Hall effect sensor, it’s part number is: 61318378940 and is called a “Switch”. If you are wanting one from a dealer and are in the USA, BMW of South Atlanta sells parts online and will ship to you…or I get most of my parts from FCP Euro as they do lifetime replacement if something ever goes bad that you bought. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi there, thanks for the video. This issue presented itself after pulling the car out of winter storage. However, my back window is in the “up” position. Is there a way to lower the top (to access the unit) without lowering the back window? Thanks.
@@OHandCrafted , Hello...no problem, glad the video helped some👍. Unfortunately, the back window really needs to be lowered at least a couple of inches to be able to safely retract the soft top manually. The front latches that hold it to the top of the windshield can be released and the manual cables in the trunk can be pulled and the top can be partially retracted to allow you to get your hand on the top of the back window. This way you can press down while turning the Allen key wrench to help it go down a few inches normally. It won’t push down very fast and is not easy to push, but if you can get it to slowly move down some, the top should clear it and then be able to be fully retracted manually. There is a video on the channel as well on how to manually retract the top for the steps if you have not seen it yet. Just a note on releasing the locks that hold it to the top of the windshield, if you do decide to retract it manually, keep turning the Allen wrench key above the windshield even after the latches let go of the windshield top as this mechanism also tensions the soft top after the latches are free. Continuing to turn it for several more turns will slowly allow the front part of the soft top to continue to raise so there will be slack in the soft top to allow you to put your hand on the back window and press while turning the Allen wrench to lower the back window a bit. Hope this helps. Steve
with a fault in the window does the hood work the same? I have an f12 that doesn't work at all, the hood and the rear window doesn't work like in the video can be only that?
Hey again, yes, if there is a fault on the window (Hall effect sensor or the motor does not lower the window fully), it will prevent the soft top from moving 👍
Hi Steve Thx for the channel. I check hall sensor doesn't look bad. Put 12v to window motor it goes up/ down. But not with switches at driver door. What can it be? I try moving angle sensor but still have red blinking light top not locked.
nick tran , hello...so when you press the button for the rear window on the door switch does it light up the green led to let you know the passenger quarter window button will now operate the rear window? If it’s not lighting up, then there must be one of the hall sensors not making, bad, or not in the correct position. Is you top currently closed or is it retracted into the trunk compartment? If its closed (covering the car), but did not latch or make the wing hall sensor, the window won’t go up or down since it has not completed the cycle. If it’s fully down in the compartment, but the window won’t go up or down, it might be the wing sensor or the lid sensor that’s not making. The rear window down movement is the first step when opening or closing the top and going back up is the very last step...if top has a fault anytime in its movement or fails to fully open or fully close the rear window will not move. If you have INPA, check to see if the rear window hall sensor is made...if it’s out of position or not making, the top won’t do anything until it shows that it made the hall sensor. It does this to protect the rear window because if it’s out of position the top will hit it. There’s a video on my channel as well that shows each of the sensors turning off and on as the top makes its cycle that may help to diagnose which one is supposed to make at what time...it shows the rear window hall sensor making at the beginning of the cycle as well as the segment sensor positions as the top moves. Sorry for the long answer, but maybe this will help a bit, Steve
nick tran , here’s the video on my channel that goes over the different sensors and when they make....note that at about the 4:36 time stamp on the video, mine makes the “Gong” that the top not locked red light is blinking. Immediately after when I first try to make the top move, the back window won’t go down since it is faulted, but then the fault goes away and allows me to start the cycle. This fault had nothing to do with the rear window, but was a glitch in the segment sensor for the rear wings. This prevented the rear window from moving since the car didn’t know where the wings were in the cycle so it would not move the rear window to be sure it didn’t crash something...hope this helps: th-cam.com/video/lIAedJ2d5a8/w-d-xo.html
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the detailed reply. sounds like it might be my segment sensor. not sure where or which one that is. the rear window sensor is just called a switch in real oem diagram. I Need to order inpa.
@@StevesDIYs yes it does light up green. . I closed the top manually and lock it manually. rear window is down all the way. then I try the top switch. nothing nada.
nick tran , the segment sensor is the one under the driver side wing that has the swing arm on it that moves as the wings are raised up, but it could also be the compartment lock sensor on the driver side skinny hydraulic cylinder that lifts the compartment or even one of the Hall effect sensors on the driver side latch mechanism that latches the roof onto the top of the front window. Any of these not registering the position will make the top think it’s cycle is not complete. INPA will for sure help you diagnose the sensors...the download is free from Bimmer Geeks, but you’ll need to buy the OBDII cable (it’s not expensive though). Hopefully you’ll get it sorted out soon 👍
Steve, is there no other way to replace, or adjust the rear window hall sesnor without taking everything apart? My back window works, but the hall sesnor isnt detecting that the window is down.
Hello, unfortunately, the window module insides are not accessible unless the unit comes out since the car body is on one side and the hydraulic system is attached to the other side. It’s been a while since I took it out, but it also seems like there is a metal cover that has to be removed on the module to access the hall sensor as well.
Hey Steve,love your videos,I have a 2006 650i convertible.bought about a year ago, 2 times my convertible top didn’t want to go down,I banged the the left side of top and it worked.the other day top was down,then went to put top up due to light rain and top went up mid way up and stopped ,(😱Lol)after a few try’s it went down.drove home,when I got home tried it and top closed,I need your help before it gets worst..any suggestions appreciated..
angelo morales , thanks for the compliment 👍. These convertible tops are a bit aggravating once the sensors and mechanism get a few years on them for sure. It sounds like the good news for your is that it still fully functions normally and is just starting to fault so that rules out quite a few things for sure. If thumping on the left side wing allows it to start working again I would suspect the segment sensor that is on the wing mechanism is starting to fail or is not picking up the correct segment anymore. This can also cause the top to stop in mid cycle if this sensor gives a bad reading because the car is trying to protect the mechanism from crashing and damaging something. Other hall sensors will cause the same, but this one seems to fail the most. To be certain you could get a copy of the INPA and the OBDII cable and it will allow you to see which one is faulting. If you just wanted to change the segment sensor to see if it would fix it, here’s a link to another video on the channel that shows me taking mine off and adjusting it. I eventually I ended up replacing the sensor I adjusted in the video as it kept faulting and finally the top got stuck half way in the motion. Here’s the link...maybe it will be this sensor, but hard to tell for sure unless you could scan the car with the INPA software...hope this helps, Steve. th-cam.com/video/0aGmCzuROvA/w-d-xo.html
Steve’s DIYs hey steve,thanks for quick reply (👍🏽).im not too computer sassy,would you recommend changing the part or getting INPA software, is this software expensive,ibd cable? I’m scared to drop the top sometimes due to this problem,don’t want to be on the road and have this problem.it not closing or opening..
Steve’s DIYs I saw your 1st video on this matter and you mentioned that there was a recall on this sensor is the dealership still addressing the recall?fixing it..
angelo morales , I would definitely recommend getting the INPA or an equivalent scanner as I would have never figured out how to work on mine and it’s issues without it as it can show all of the sensors and what they are doing so you can pinpoint which one is giving trouble. The software I downloaded was from Bimmergeeks.com and is free, but since I don’t trust free downloads very much I bought a cheap laptop that I only use for car software. They have the cable as well...something like $45 USD, but you can get a cable from other websites as well I believe. Seems like the Bimmergeeks site said they had help available with the downloads, but it loaded up easily for me without issue. I usually try to put the PC screens in my videos on how to navigate inside the software (mainly for me as I refer back to my videos so I don’t have to remember how, lol). The bimmergeeks folks might be able to suggest something more user friendly that they sell as well (like a scanner)...not sure though as I’ve never talked to them or bought anything from them...just downloaded their free software link.
angelo morales , not real sure if the recall is still in effect, but you might be able to confirm with a BMW dealer to see. Seems like googling “BMW convertible top lawsuit” pulled up the info on it and the recall info.
Hello, the CVM (Soft Top module) is located behind the driver side rear side panel that is below the driver side rear window. The panel is removed similar to how the passenger side panel was removed in the video. IT is above the large audio speaker that is also in the panel. Hope this helps, Steve
Hi mate, I’m getting an error code A68B “hall sensor convertible top compartment unlocked, left” with the constant bonging, is this a hall sensor problem?
Hey man ! Yes, it sounds like the hall sensor that is on the hydraulic lift cylinders is not reading that the cylinder is fully retracted. When the cylinder fully retracts to close the compartment cover, it also latches the compartment cover right at the last of its motion. If the Hall effect sensor does not read that it has reached to end of the movement, it will error. If you open the compartment cover up (begin the opening cycle and then release the button when you see the compartment open fully), the sensor is located at the bottom of the thin hydraulic lift cylinders that are holding the compartment lid up. I believe it sits on the side of the cylinder at the bottom. Sometimes they just loose connection to the wiring and the wiring to the sensor can be wiggled and it will begin working again…if not, and the sensor has corrosion on it, it may have to be replaced. Hope this helps a bit and let me know how it goes. All the best! Steve
@@StevesDIYs just changed the sensor today, and so far the roof is working! No errors codes and the dreaded red light is no longer flashing so fingers crossed it’s cured it. Thanks again for all the info 👍
@@cammydough3184 Great to hear and glad it is working again 👍. Hopefully it will be good to go for several more years…with so many different Hall effect sensors in BMW’s design, it’s only a matter of time before another one goes bad unfortunately, but none are hard to replace and can usually be tracked down to which one with the scanning software. Thanks for letting me know and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve i have a bmw e63 convertible m6 and have a a problem with the rear window sliding down. I see that the soft top also displays a message saying soft top not locked and the red light keeps flashing. The window buttons are inactive due to the soft top not being locked. Do you have any suggestions as to how i should approach this.
Aquino Stuart , hello, is your soft top currently in the closed position (covering the car)? If so, it could be several things causing this. One of the first things to check that’s easy is to wiggle the drivers side wing (left side of the car) sideways a bit and also take your hand and thump the frame of the soft top inside the car above the left side rear side window here it goes down to the wing. If this turns the “top not locked” error off and allows you to close the windows then it is the wing’s segment sensor out of position or going bad. If doing this didn’t help, it may be a good idea to order the INPA software and OBDii cable so you can link up to the car and see what the segment sensors and the various Hall effect sensors are doing. It’s the software I show in the videos...I wouldn’t have been able to find the problems without it as it will give the specific error and also let you look at the states of the sensors. Just let me know what it does. Also, was it working ok and then suddenly gave this fault or had it been giving periodic “top not locked” faults while driving and then correcting itself? Thanks, Steve
@@StevesDIYs thank you for the informative advice Steve i managed to get it closed. I seen in your other video how you manually lower the rear window. I applied that to my vehicle then proceeded to unlock the the soft top in front with an Allen Key whilst pressing the (open soft top button) to my amazement the hydraulic motor kicked in and opened the top in 1 full motion. I also closed the top till the movement completed. Everything is working fine now💯👌. But i think its the Hall sensor thats's giving bad signals to the soft top opening and closing procedures. Another reason is also i have noticed, if you by accident do not complete the range of movement and stop mid air the top tends throw this error. Thank you for your all your help and advice, your videos really helped me alot! Keep well and stay blessed🙏
Aquino Stuart , that’s great ! I’m glad you got it going again...nice analysis work indeed 👍👍. Yep, it does sound like a hall sensor was not registering or the back window motor or front latching motor had over travelled and got jammed (due to a hall sensor not picking up to tell it to stop possibly). If, for some reason one of the left or right the flexible drive shafts that do the latching of the top to the upper windshield jump on the spline connection, it will cause the one to travel too far and then the motor cannot back up to reverse the movement (there’s a video on checking the mechanism as well on the channel). That is great news that it was nothing expensive that went bad (like the motors or hydraulic system). Hall sensors and the segment sensors are not expensive to buy...they just take a bit of work to access some of them. If you haven’t found the site yet, RealOEM.com is a great reference for looking at the schematics of the convertible parts and also gives the part numbers for the sensors and things. I don’t think they sell anything anymore from the site (so I’m not giving them free advertising, lol) and I’m not real sure why it even exists anymore, but it does still have the info on the cars. There is also another site if you google “newTIS” that has all of the info for the BMWs (wiring diagrams, troubleshooting, and a ton of other stuff). It’s tough to find info and have to do a lot of clicking, but most everything about the cars is there if you like to research things. Glad you got it going 👍. All the best, Steve
Hi steve i need your help I have a 2005 645ci and i have no power for closing or open too the button doesnt flash nothing happens i put my scanner it gives me code a695 and a696 Any idea?
Also once I put the back window down with switch it will not go back up I jumped the motor it went back up so I know the rear window motor works.. but once the top does not do anything All my side windows work normal
Jonathan Martinez , hello there are several things that can prevent the window from going down, one if them is a bad hall sensor like the issue fixed in this video, but there could be others like a bad window motor, blown fuse for the motor, bad sensor on the wings in the back or the compartment cover lift sensors. The symptoms are a bit different for each. Will yours lower the side windows when you try to open or close the top, but then won’t do anything else? There have been several questions on how to manually raise or lower the back window so I probably should make a video of manually lowering the window for sure 👍. I’ll try to do that.
Jonathan Martinez , hey ! I uploaded the video on how to lower the back window manually onto my channel. Maybe it will help 👍. Thanks for the comments and also reminding me.
Hi. I need help. I have BMW 650i 2006 and problem with rear window. He stayed down and i mechanicl closed roof. Now i opened roof mechanical and computer dosent give no one problem message of roof and Windows and trunk want Work Now and Windows are now down. I am crazy 🤣🤣 Can you helo me
Hello, yes, once you pull the manual cables in the trunk to move the top by hand, if one of the sensors is not reading correctly it will not go back in to the automatic function. This also means that none of the side windows will go up and the trunk will no longer open without using the physical key that is inside the key fob (there is a place in the trunk emblem when you tip it up to put the key in just in case you didn’t know this). You will have to determine which sensor is not reading correctly, but until then, you can actually reset the compartment latches manually and the windows and trunk will work again. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to lock the compartment latches back manually that will allow the windows and trunk to work again: th-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/w-d-xo.html . It’s not something that is normally done, so it involves removing the carpet in the trunk, but once you push the latches back to the lock position, the windows should work again until you can determine which sensor (probably either the rear window down position sensor or the segment sensor that is on the left side wing mechanism as they go bad more often it seems). Hope this helps some 👍. Steve
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Steve you absolute legend !!!
I could not get anyone to fix my roof for the last 3 years which was like having a can without an opener until I watched your video and with your advice followed this video and fixed my roof .
My back window catching which I will sort tomorrow but for the first time in years I have a folding roof ... I thank you so much for your help !!
JK from Galway , Ireland
John kelleher , that’s great man ! They are so much more fun to drive with the convertible open for sure...my wife won’t drive hers with the top closed unless it’s raining so she opens and closes hers constantly and it gets a workout, lol. If it has not been used for several years, it may give some faults on the segment sensors after it starts getting opened and closed like normal again, but the other videos on the channel cover a lot of the normal problems. I’m always glad to hear the videos helped some 👍...just let me know if you encounter an issue and have a question. All the best to you sir ! Steve
Steve’s DIYs ... if you don’t mind to send me your address via email ..., I would like to send you a bottle with my appreciation !!
johnkelleher31@hotmail.com
John kelleher , thanks man ! That’s awesome of you. I sent you an email from stevesdiys@gmail.com. All the best ! Steve
I had motor issues and replaced it using this video and an X1 sunroof motor(same motor) from a scrap car. This video saved me the equivalent of $1000 in parts and labour. You sir are a legend.
Thanks man and glad the videos are a help 👍. When I first started working on mine (the one in most of the videos with the black interior) I couldn’t find any info on how to fix them so I figured making videos might help others out. The car with the brown interior in this video is actually a guy’s car that found the TH-cam channel and figured out I was only a few hours away from him when he saw my old vehicle license plates hanging on the garage wall, lol. All the best and thanks again for letting me know the videos help 👍, Steve
Thank you very much for an excellent video footage. I would have thought even BMW will have issues with removing the back window unit. Unfortunately those plastic gears should not have been used in the motor as with time they do crack similar to any other devices in the kitchen or house hold in general. I never understood WHY would a manufacture STILL using these plastic in ALL motors?. I have BMW650I 2007, convertible and I would absolutely hate having to go through the procedure. You are such a great person. I have watched few of your videos for knowledge but mechanical issues would surely have the local garage deal with but at least I know how much works needs to be done. I love my BMW650I, it was bought new 16 years back. Had issues with AC, engine pan leakage etc BUT was done under the warranty when the car was less than 5 years old. Since I am having the car fixed at local garages as agent charges x 4 times in most cases. I have been driving the 6 series for the last 35 years and just love it. There is NO other sports car on the road which can replace the 6 series. Your video footage always clear and consistent basically even amateurs will understand or get some knowledge. Well I guess We all understand the time and effects put into finalising these videos for us to understand the complications and frustrations in order for us to see end results. Thank you and God bless.
Hello, thanks for the kind words…much appreciated ! Yes, when I first got the 650i, I couldn’t find any information on how to repair issues with the convertible top so I figured making some videos about repairing them might help other owners. Like you said, many people choose not to work on them and prefer to take them to a reputable repair shop, but at least the videos show what the issue could be and the steps to disassemble and repair. This way people feel better about the charge they receive for the repair as they know what amount of work it took. Some repair shop owners comment that they use these videos to help them when they are not familiar with the specific vehicles, lol !
I agree that the 6 series BMW’s are my favorite as well. The 650i is actually my wife’s car (the black one with the black interior seen in many of the videos) and I own the V10 M6 coupe version as well. The style and handling of them is really nice for sure. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I just wanted to express my thoughts and appreciation to you for these wonderful videos. Also I want to add, your excellent video footage is shown to mechanic in the garage before I would let them start working. SO they understand what to expect. Because I have been driving 6 series for the last 35 year and lately the BMW650I 2007 when there weren’t many local garages except the agent. In Bahrain the BMW agent charges for example changing the Micro filter “AC” $200 where am purchasing the filter for $20 and labor $5. SO cost max $25 SO basically 10% of agent charges. It’s all thanks 🙏 to your video footage. These BMW650I seems to have transmission issues with valve body! Unfortunately they don’t repair locally but it’s always replacing the whole transmission at a cost of $1200-1500. Through my experience with the 6 series repairs of existing is better than replacement specially transmission and engine. We get used large parts from Japan through Dubai. My car is silver with red interior. Lately I had issue with the armrest console! Suddenly I noticed the trunk and console won’t open. SO I had to use the key in the fob remote to dismantle both from the central locking system. The trunk is working BUT the armrest console latch is stuck for the last 3 weeks. Tried with the key positioned in the back armrest console turning left, right and center but no results. Took the car to two garages they said the might need to remove the whole box to see the wiring etc. Despite all issues 35 years on STILL feel the BMW650I are MORE handsome sports car BMW ever made. My daughter has BMW640i 2014. She is happy as she had Camera RS few years ago but think the BMW640I gran coupe special edition “pearl” mate white is just as fast and more stable on the road. IF you or other viewers have any idea how to get the armrest console to open? It would be appreciated. God bless.
Brilliant video - thanks Steve. My 645 roof only got as far as opening the windows. Followed the video and discovered that my hall sensor was completely corroded. Replaced the hall sensor and the problem all but disappeared. To completely resolve I found that I also needed to adjust the allen screw in the fin as per one of your other videos (screwed out by about 3/4 of a turn) as roof initially would not fully close. As I was only needing to replace the hall sensor and not adjust the rear window motor I was able to do this without removing the window glass from the clamps - bit fiddly but possible. The other thing I discovered (as I was really struggling to separate the two halves of the roll bar covers) is that by undoing the three screws you can lift off the whole assembly.
David Lockwood , thanks for the comment 👍...glad the videos helped get yours working again. That’s good to know that the hall sensor can be replaced without taking the glass out, that was one of the tougher parts (getting the glue loose to slip it out of the lift brackets 👍👍). All the best ! ,Steve
I have the same problem what hall sensor do I need please I have a 645ci converter e64
I can't find this part any where could you send me a link
Hi Steve. New subscriber here Chris. ..Very impressed with your knowledge and quality of craftsmanship!.
I own an 08 M6 convertible which I take very good care ..only 76k miles.
The rear window when I push the button to open the convertible does not start to go down. I have to push the button again and again because it goes down about couple inches with every push if the button. Once the window is down then the convertible mechanism goes to work and opens up.
To close the top I press on the button and the top starts to move and closes. The rear window is down still. I have to use the side door control rear window button.. Press it again 3 to 4 times to raise the window a little bit at the time u til is fully closed.
My car was fine until I took it to a so called local expert for changing the amplifier, tuner, satellite units and change all speakers. Water had got to the trunk and shorted these units. It happened at the BMW dealer where it was left outside under an oak tree..the drains got clogged and water entered the button of the trunk..not a lot but enough to short out these stereo units.
When I took it to his shop the convertible and rear window was working fine. I had the top down and then closed it when I left him the car. . When I went to pick up the vehicle it had this window problem along with a new problem the ABS malfunction. Later I came to realization that The shop owner head expert mechanic was a crook, he wanted to milk my extended warranty co by rigging jobs on my car to do. My car was at his shop over 5 months. I picked up my car with heavy heart. This man made $7000 from my auto insurance company and left me with new problems to go home. I didn't want to leave the car to him any longer after 5 months in his shop. My extended warranty went out of business and I had to eat the ABS part replacement just today.. 2 other shops do not know what is wrong with my rear window and my local FL BMW needed over $700 to start diagnostics.
Sorry for my long winded message but I thought other subscribers might benefit from this story .
Please let me know what I should do to do it myself and what items might be going bad. Thank you kindly! Chris
Chris Sakelariou , hey man ! Wow ! That’s a bad deal all the way around from both them leaving it out and getting water in it and the guy trying to milk the warranty...The BMW with the cream colored interior in some if the videos was the same way (mine is the one with the black interior)...it had been to several shops for the convertible top not working and each one messed up more and more on the car. I spent more time fixing their damage than fixing the actual problem (the corroded hall sensor). The good news for yours is that it sounds like the convertible top still works fine so that means the Convertible top module doesn’t have any issues 👍. It gets a signal from the Body Control Module (BCM) to let it know the rear back window is down from the hall sensor in the window system so that’s why the top movement waits until the window is totally down before beginning the movement. The rear window’s movement is controlled by the Body Control Module ( under the passenger glove box beside the interior wall). Since it sounds like both pushing the top open (or close) buttons and the driver door rear window button are requiring the same multiple pushes to get the window to inch it’s way down, it sounds like all of the communication is also at least working to the BCM (good news too 👍). This seems to leave either something interrupting the signal from the buttons to the BCM or something mechanical. The back window’s motor only knows that the window is all the way up or has made it all the way down by sensing the current spike when it hits the travel stops. It might be that it’s dragging, one of the cables got rusty, or the motor is going bad...so the motor is working too hard and telling the computer it thinks it reached the travel stops. An easy way to check this would be to lower it down a little so you could get your hand on top if it, then have someone push the lowering button on the driver door while you push down on it to give the motor some help to lower the window. If it will continue to go down by helping it, I would say somethings wrong in the rear window module. If helping it go down doesn’t change anything in how far it will travel before stopping, I would say there’s something breaking the communication that’s gonna require getting the INPA software or something to be able to see the switch signals and force the computer to make the movements to see why it is not thinking it should move the window. Maybe give helping the window go down with your hand (and a helper to push the button while doing it) and see what that does first then let me know how that goes. Steve
Hi from Poland. Thx for video. I may have noticed that this is the cause of the rear window going down, but not in one go. I have to use the button about 4-5 times before I can get the window to go all the way down or up.
Hey ! Yep, if the motor is getting weak or the tracks that guide the glass get dirty or sticky, the motor senses that it has reached it’s maximum allowable current draw and shuts off (basically how it knows that it has reached the top or bottom of the normal travel as it uses the current draw to determine when it hits the travel stops).
Steve want to thank you I definitely helping a relative with that 650i but no back window. Your video and your detail explanation was will put. Definitely got me to do it. So huge thanks, would you happen to know exactly how to fix the electrical steering button for the steering wheel. It just stop working.
Thanks and glad the video was helpful 👍. For the electrical steering button, I’m not sure which one you are referring to. If you can comment back with some more details on what the button does or looks like (location or maybe the symbol on it), I might be able to look up what the issue might be. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
It’s the button on the steering wheel to bring it down, up, back and forth. To your liking for driving. The cover won’t snap back in. I’m like errr Beamer problems lol. Again thanks for reaching back out
@@curbsidecustom6148 ah, I have had the steering column buttons stop responding before, but all I did was disconnect the battery for about 20 mins and they started working again lol so I’m actually not sure what caused the issue.
💥💥💥💥Thank you very much, I fixed my car by following this tutorial.🙏👌👌👌👌👌👌💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks man ! That’s great to hear that the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, thank you for the videos and responding to my question about hall sensors and their locations. I reviewed most of your outstanding videos. I have a 2012 650i. When I lower top from the down from (closed) position. Everything works well, right up until it starts to lower into the trunk then it freezes. When i turn the ignition off then through gravity it lowers itself. The light comes on and top does not close. I have to raise the top manually 1/2 up then press my key hold it down then the top closes and locks into place all windows including back works up and down. BMW said it is a hall effect sensor.
No problem…glad to help some 👍. From your description, it sounds like all of the Hall effect sensors are working as, usually when they go bad, they go totally bad and then the soft top won’t function at all. Sometimes they will get knocked out of position, but usually this will also prevent the top from cycling even if moved manually and then tried again. It’s hard to know without seeing the error on the computer, but it sounds more like the driver side (US Models) wing’s segment sensor is not reading the correct position so it is just stopping since it cannot verify that the wings are up to be able to move to the next step and lower it into the compartment. One way to check the segment sensor for the wings is to have someone sit in the car and retract the soft top until it stops due to the issue (continue to press and hold the button even after the movement stops due to the issue). Then, while they are still pressing the button, wiggle the driver side wing up and down a little and see if it will hit the correct segment and then start to move again. If it does try to move (even if just a little and then stops until you wiggle it again), I would say that this sensor has gone bad. You may have seen this other video on the channel, but just in case, here’s a link to it as well. At the 3:00 minute mark in this video, you can see the segment sensor and also that it has to be on the correct segment to move on to the next step in the sequence: th-cam.com/video/0aGmCzuROvA/w-d-xo.html . Hopefully it is just this segment sensor giving problems (it is very common on these) as it it easy to replace and not very expensive. If the trial for wiggling the wing doesn’t make it move or act differently, just let me know and we can look for other things to check 👍. Oh, there is also a segment sensor on the overall soft top mechanism (down in the bottom of the compartment on the driver’s side by the thin cylinders that lift the compartment lid), but I have never seen this one go bad. Wiggling the all of the soft top would allow this one to possibly move to the correct segment and continue if it was having problems. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, thank you for the response and suggestions. I tried the recommendations and the top does not stow, only stops before stowing. I was wondering I would like to get your opinion if I should check the harness to see if wires may have broken where the frame bends?
@@alltheway007 , hello, sorry the top is still not working. Indeed it would be a good idea to check the wiring to see if it has been damaged. In one of the videos on the channel (I cannot remember which one though), I show where my wires were damaged at one of the hinge points on the soft top and I had to repair the wire insulation 👍.
@@StevesDIYs Thanks again Steve, I will go through and find the video. Enjoy the Superbowl game.
@@alltheway007 , thanks man ! You too 👍
Steve,
Great video. I followed each step and found that the motor is very difficult to turn and even stops until I move the rotor by hand. BUT - where did you get the replacement motor? I have been on line, chats and phone and nobody has one. Any ideas?
Thanks man 👍. For getting the part numbers for these (and other BMWs), I always go to a website called RealOEM.com as they have most all of the OEM part numbers listed for the parts. For the motor part number, once you are on their webpage, just fill in the information for your particular vehicle (note that the ones beginning with 6’ are the 6 Series on the list if you don’t use the vin ID option), then click on the “Sliding Roof / Folding Top” section, then the “Folding Top - Rear Window” section and you’ll see the item list with the picture. The motor is Item #7…new ones are getting crazy expensive it seems though (you can almost buy a complete used rear window module for the price of just a new motor lol). Also note that you can Google the superseded part shown on RealOEM and sometimes you can find one by the old part number being sold. Hope this help a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, Thanks for the reply. Can't find the part for under $400 so trying to get a rebuild done locally.@@StevesDIYs
Great video! Thanks! Got mine all apart and the hall sensor is absolutely at fault...it's so corroded it's actually in 2 pieces! Where can I get a replacement sensor?? I'm not having any luck online...Thanks!!
Hey man ! Glad the video helped 👍. Sounds like you may have found the problem for sure as without the hall sensor signal the top won’t do much of anything. For parts, I usually go to a site called RealOEM.com as they have the schematics for most of the BMWs. For the sensor, it should be P/N: BMW 61318378940 if yours is an ‘06 to ‘10 e64 (item #15 in the schematic). RealOEM doesn’t sell stuff anymore, but the part number can be googled to get one from the online parts places. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi, I have a problem with my bmw 650 I 2007 , the rear window don’t roll down it’s stuck up what do I have to do to replace the motor when I can’t open my top convertible because the window don’t rolled down , all the athers window work half way when I trying to open the top except the one on the back and the bottom light from the convertible keeps blinking, please if you can give me and advise what to do , by the way I love all your videos very helpful.
Thanks man ! Glad the videos help some 👍. You can actually lower the rear window manually in order to be able to manually open the top. Here’s a link to another video on the channel that shows how to crank it down manually...be sure to go slow when cranking as it can strip the gears if not careful: th-cam.com/video/rNj3J9f0yfE/w-d-xo.html . Hope it helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve I watched your video over and over in last few days whilst dismantling the window on my 645Ci but currently I'm facing a problem the reason for my window not to work turned out to be that I'm not getting any power to the big connector located underneath the panel next to rear right window. I checked all the fuses and relays they all working power is reaching the fuse box buttons for lowering and raising are working but I still don't get any power the connector which should be powering up the windows, the heater for defrosting in winter and the hall sensor I really need help please please please
Hi Steve, great videos! I have a 2008 M6 and my top had been working great till last summer when my girl friend spilled something on the top open/ close switches. The top would still function initially but soon after I was lucky to get it closed one last time. Now the green light doesn't function, no red either. Any thoughts on where to start?
Thanks man ! Yep, that’s happened to me before on another BMW I had for the DSC and parking sensor button. I had to remove the trim piece and remove the buttons (disconnect them from the car wiring), then dip them in rubbing alcohol and actuate the buttons until it washed the sticky drink out. After that I blew them out with compressed air (or PC keyboard spray cleaner if you don’t have an air compressor) and let them sit in a sunny window to dry them out. For the soft top buttons on these, I don’t believe they have fuses tied to them since they only link to the convertible top module but, if after cleaning, they still won’t light up and move the top, I’d check the fuses in the glove box and trunk to see if any have blown. Hope this helps and let me know what you determine…I always like to hear what the fix ended up being 👍. All the best ! Steve
Thanks for the quick reply! I'll let you know how I make out.
Love your videos
Hi Steve, great video!
My window works but moves in approx 2” increments, does this mean I need a new motor? How do you lift the roof manually to get to the hydraulic motor to take it off?
Cheers Mate 😀
Calv
Thanks ! There’s another video on the channel on how to manually put the soft top over the car so to retract it, you would basically follow the same procedure, but in reverse (starting with 1st lowering the rear window at least half way and then manually unlatching it from the top of the windshield and then opening the compartment manually and putting it in. For the window only going down in increments, if it not making a terrible grinding noise as it inches down, it may just be that the tracks that guide the glass are sticky or dirty so the motor is hitting it’s max current limit and stopping (it uses the max current limit to know that it is fully down or fully up when it hits the travel end stops). Here’s a link to the other video: th-cam.com/video/CPdUUkOGGIY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zuuzW64qNEdC96tW
I’m not 100% sure, but you may be able to just remove the plastic trim that is over the rear window module and spray some non-hardening lube in the tracks and see if it will go back to operating normally (you may have to take the rear head rests off to get the trim off, but 100% sure about that either since it’s been several years since it did the video.
Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for the reply, this is super helpful 😊 how do you reengage the mechanism after you’ve done the job to make the roof work automatically again after you’ve done the job?
Cheers
Calv
I’ve just read the comment below, this is also my GFs car and is a 650i. I also have a V10 M6, I’ve had it converted to a 6MT, and love them both ❤
@CA-bo2pj hey again ! If everything is working properly with all if the sensors, once the soft top is retracted and in the compartment and the compartment lid is lowered back down, pressing the soft top retract button in the center console will make it complete the cycle and go back on to automatic mode.
If for some reason there is still a sensor that is erroring on the soft top or rear window, to latch the compartment back until you can determine the issue you have to manually push the compartment hydraulic cylinders forward as they are also what does the latching. Here’s a video for that as well on how to access it the cylinder ends and push them back to latch the compartment: th-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=97d7JUSUoUYHe1AN
@CA-bo2pj 👍 Nice ! Yep, my V10 has the SMG trans, but I would have loved to have found a 3 pedal manual one…I’m jealous for sure !!!
Hello very good vidéo,
Do you have the référence bmw of this hall effect sensor ?
Thank you
Hey man ! The BMW part number for the rear window module glass should be 61318378940. For parts for these (and any other BMW for the most part) there’s a website called “RealOEM.com” that has schematics for the parts of the cars. Once you get to the landing screen, select your specific car (or type in your VIN) and it will take you to the different parts and systems of the vehicle. For the rear window module diagram, go to the “sliding roof/folding top” section, then to the “folding top - rear window module” section…the Hall effect sensor it called a “switch” and is item #15. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
thank you for my problem I manage to open and close the 5 windows normally but if I want to open the electric hood nothing happens I have the green button flashing and it tells me on the dashboard "emergency control" according to the diagnosis it is also the effect hall sensor when dismantling the glass, do you also have to buy the glass support kit for reassembling the glass?
Hello, when I did mine, I was careful to just cut the adhesive from the glass support tabs and reused them. If a kit is available and it is not too expansive, it might be worth getting it as part of the rebuild, but I didn’t have any issues after the rebuild using the original glass mounts. Thanks and all the best ! Steve
Mine is a 2008, and im going to change both the motor and hall sensor just so i wont need to take this apart again. Any chance you have a part number for the hall sensor?....dealer cant seem to find it.
Hey man, yep, the dealers really struggle with info (and how to diagnose and fix these soft top e64’s ) for sure it seems…pretty bad that dealing with and fixing the issues has to now fall on us DIY’ers lol ! For the rear window Hall effect sensor, it’s part number is: 61318378940 and is called a “Switch”. If you are wanting one from a dealer and are in the USA, BMW of South Atlanta sells parts online and will ship to you…or I get most of my parts from FCP Euro as they do lifetime replacement if something ever goes bad that you bought. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hi there, thanks for the video. This issue presented itself after pulling the car out of winter storage. However, my back window is in the “up” position. Is there a way to lower the top (to access the unit) without lowering the back window? Thanks.
I omitted to advise I tried the manual lowering with the Allen key; will not move.
@@OHandCrafted , Hello...no problem, glad the video helped some👍. Unfortunately, the back window really needs to be lowered at least a couple of inches to be able to safely retract the soft top manually. The front latches that hold it to the top of the windshield can be released and the manual cables in the trunk can be pulled and the top can be partially retracted to allow you to get your hand on the top of the back window. This way you can press down while turning the Allen key wrench to help it go down a few inches normally. It won’t push down very fast and is not easy to push, but if you can get it to slowly move down some, the top should clear it and then be able to be fully retracted manually. There is a video on the channel as well on how to manually retract the top for the steps if you have not seen it yet. Just a note on releasing the locks that hold it to the top of the windshield, if you do decide to retract it manually, keep turning the Allen wrench key above the windshield even after the latches let go of the windshield top as this mechanism also tensions the soft top after the latches are free. Continuing to turn it for several more turns will slowly allow the front part of the soft top to continue to raise so there will be slack in the soft top to allow you to put your hand on the back window and press while turning the Allen wrench to lower the back window a bit. Hope this helps. Steve
with a fault in the window does the hood work the same? I have an f12 that doesn't work at all, the hood and the rear window doesn't work like in the video can be only that?
Hey again, yes, if there is a fault on the window (Hall effect sensor or the motor does not lower the window fully), it will prevent the soft top from moving 👍
Hi Steve Thx for the channel. I check hall sensor doesn't look bad. Put 12v to window motor it goes up/ down. But not with switches at driver door. What can it be?
I try moving angle sensor but still have red blinking light top not locked.
nick tran , hello...so when you press the button for the rear window on the door switch does it light up the green led to let you know the passenger quarter window button will now operate the rear window? If it’s not lighting up, then there must be one of the hall sensors not making, bad, or not in the correct position. Is you top currently closed or is it retracted into the trunk compartment? If its closed (covering the car), but did not latch or make the wing hall sensor, the window won’t go up or down since it has not completed the cycle. If it’s fully down in the compartment, but the window won’t go up or down, it might be the wing sensor or the lid sensor that’s not making. The rear window down movement is the first step when opening or closing the top and going back up is the very last step...if top has a fault anytime in its movement or fails to fully open or fully close the rear window will not move. If you have INPA, check to see if the rear window hall sensor is made...if it’s out of position or not making, the top won’t do anything until it shows that it made the hall sensor. It does this to protect the rear window because if it’s out of position the top will hit it. There’s a video on my channel as well that shows each of the sensors turning off and on as the top makes its cycle that may help to diagnose which one is supposed to make at what time...it shows the rear window hall sensor making at the beginning of the cycle as well as the segment sensor positions as the top moves. Sorry for the long answer, but maybe this will help a bit, Steve
nick tran , here’s the video on my channel that goes over the different sensors and when they make....note that at about the 4:36 time stamp on the video, mine makes the “Gong” that the top not locked red light is blinking. Immediately after when I first try to make the top move, the back window won’t go down since it is faulted, but then the fault goes away and allows me to start the cycle. This fault had nothing to do with the rear window, but was a glitch in the segment sensor for the rear wings. This prevented the rear window from moving since the car didn’t know where the wings were in the cycle so it would not move the rear window to be sure it didn’t crash something...hope this helps: th-cam.com/video/lIAedJ2d5a8/w-d-xo.html
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the detailed reply. sounds like it might be my segment sensor. not sure where or which one that is. the rear window sensor is just called a switch in real oem diagram. I Need to order inpa.
@@StevesDIYs yes it does light up green. . I closed the top manually and lock it manually. rear window is down all the way. then I try the top switch. nothing nada.
nick tran , the segment sensor is the one under the driver side wing that has the swing arm on it that moves as the wings are raised up, but it could also be the compartment lock sensor on the driver side skinny hydraulic cylinder that lifts the compartment or even one of the Hall effect sensors on the driver side latch mechanism that latches the roof onto the top of the front window. Any of these not registering the position will make the top think it’s cycle is not complete. INPA will for sure help you diagnose the sensors...the download is free from Bimmer Geeks, but you’ll need to buy the OBDII cable (it’s not expensive though). Hopefully you’ll get it sorted out soon 👍
Steve, is there no other way to replace, or adjust the rear window hall sesnor without taking everything apart? My back window works, but the hall sesnor isnt detecting that the window is down.
Hello, unfortunately, the window module insides are not accessible unless the unit comes out since the car body is on one side and the hydraulic system is attached to the other side. It’s been a while since I took it out, but it also seems like there is a metal cover that has to be removed on the module to access the hall sensor as well.
Nice job
Thanks 👍 All the best ! Steve
Hey Steve,love your videos,I have a 2006 650i convertible.bought about a year ago, 2 times my convertible top didn’t want to go down,I banged the the left side of top and it worked.the other day top was down,then went to put top up due to light rain and top went up mid way up and stopped ,(😱Lol)after a few try’s it went down.drove home,when I got home tried it and top closed,I need your help before it gets worst..any suggestions appreciated..
angelo morales , thanks for the compliment 👍. These convertible tops are a bit aggravating once the sensors and mechanism get a few years on them for sure. It sounds like the good news for your is that it still fully functions normally and is just starting to fault so that rules out quite a few things for sure. If thumping on the left side wing allows it to start working again I would suspect the segment sensor that is on the wing mechanism is starting to fail or is not picking up the correct segment anymore. This can also cause the top to stop in mid cycle if this sensor gives a bad reading because the car is trying to protect the mechanism from crashing and damaging something. Other hall sensors will cause the same, but this one seems to fail the most. To be certain you could get a copy of the INPA and the OBDII cable and it will allow you to see which one is faulting. If you just wanted to change the segment sensor to see if it would fix it, here’s a link to another video on the channel that shows me taking mine off and adjusting it. I eventually I ended up replacing the sensor I adjusted in the video as it kept faulting and finally the top got stuck half way in the motion. Here’s the link...maybe it will be this sensor, but hard to tell for sure unless you could scan the car with the INPA software...hope this helps, Steve. th-cam.com/video/0aGmCzuROvA/w-d-xo.html
Steve’s DIYs hey steve,thanks for quick reply (👍🏽).im not too computer sassy,would you recommend changing the part or getting INPA software, is this software expensive,ibd cable? I’m scared to drop the top sometimes due to this problem,don’t want to be on the road and have this problem.it not closing or opening..
Steve’s DIYs I saw your 1st video on this matter and you mentioned that there was a recall on this sensor is the dealership still addressing the recall?fixing it..
angelo morales , I would definitely recommend getting the INPA or an equivalent scanner as I would have never figured out how to work on mine and it’s issues without it as it can show all of the sensors and what they are doing so you can pinpoint which one is giving trouble. The software I downloaded was from Bimmergeeks.com and is free, but since I don’t trust free downloads very much I bought a cheap laptop that I only use for car software. They have the cable as well...something like $45 USD, but you can get a cable from other websites as well I believe. Seems like the Bimmergeeks site said they had help available with the downloads, but it loaded up easily for me without issue. I usually try to put the PC screens in my videos on how to navigate inside the software (mainly for me as I refer back to my videos so I don’t have to remember how, lol). The bimmergeeks folks might be able to suggest something more user friendly that they sell as well (like a scanner)...not sure though as I’ve never talked to them or bought anything from them...just downloaded their free software link.
angelo morales , not real sure if the recall is still in effect, but you might be able to confirm with a BMW dealer to see. Seems like googling “BMW convertible top lawsuit” pulled up the info on it and the recall info.
Hello sir , please do know where the soft top control module is located. Please help me if you do know. Thanks
Hello, the CVM (Soft Top module) is located behind the driver side rear side panel that is below the driver side rear window. The panel is removed similar to how the passenger side panel was removed in the video. IT is above the large audio speaker that is also in the panel. Hope this helps, Steve
Hi mate, I’m getting an error code A68B “hall sensor convertible top compartment unlocked, left” with the constant bonging, is this a hall sensor problem?
Hey man ! Yes, it sounds like the hall sensor that is on the hydraulic lift cylinders is not reading that the cylinder is fully retracted. When the cylinder fully retracts to close the compartment cover, it also latches the compartment cover right at the last of its motion. If the Hall effect sensor does not read that it has reached to end of the movement, it will error. If you open the compartment cover up (begin the opening cycle and then release the button when you see the compartment open fully), the sensor is located at the bottom of the thin hydraulic lift cylinders that are holding the compartment lid up. I believe it sits on the side of the cylinder at the bottom. Sometimes they just loose connection to the wiring and the wiring to the sensor can be wiggled and it will begin working again…if not, and the sensor has corrosion on it, it may have to be replaced. Hope this helps a bit and let me know how it goes. All the best! Steve
@@StevesDIYs that’s brilliant thanks for that mate, really appreciate your help, this is the sensor we suspected. Got one ordered now 👍
@@cammydough3184 no problem…glad to try to help 👍. Let me know how it goes and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs just changed the sensor today, and so far the roof is working! No errors codes and the dreaded red light is no longer flashing so fingers crossed it’s cured it. Thanks again for all the info 👍
@@cammydough3184 Great to hear and glad it is working again 👍. Hopefully it will be good to go for several more years…with so many different Hall effect sensors in BMW’s design, it’s only a matter of time before another one goes bad unfortunately, but none are hard to replace and can usually be tracked down to which one with the scanning software. Thanks for letting me know and all the best ! Steve
Hi Steve i have a bmw e63 convertible m6 and have a a problem with the rear window sliding down. I see that the soft top also displays a message saying soft top not locked and the red light keeps flashing. The window buttons are inactive due to the soft top not being locked. Do you have any suggestions as to how i should approach this.
Aquino Stuart , hello, is your soft top currently in the closed position (covering the car)? If so, it could be several things causing this. One of the first things to check that’s easy is to wiggle the drivers side wing (left side of the car) sideways a bit and also take your hand and thump the frame of the soft top inside the car above the left side rear side window here it goes down to the wing. If this turns the “top not locked” error off and allows you to close the windows then it is the wing’s segment sensor out of position or going bad. If doing this didn’t help, it may be a good idea to order the INPA software and OBDii cable so you can link up to the car and see what the segment sensors and the various Hall effect sensors are doing. It’s the software I show in the videos...I wouldn’t have been able to find the problems without it as it will give the specific error and also let you look at the states of the sensors. Just let me know what it does. Also, was it working ok and then suddenly gave this fault or had it been giving periodic “top not locked” faults while driving and then correcting itself? Thanks, Steve
@@StevesDIYs thank you for the informative advice Steve i managed to get it closed.
I seen in your other video how you manually lower the rear window. I applied that to my vehicle then proceeded to unlock the the soft top in front with an Allen Key whilst pressing the (open soft top button) to my amazement the hydraulic motor kicked in and opened the top in 1 full motion. I also closed the top till the movement completed. Everything is working fine now💯👌. But i think its the Hall sensor thats's giving bad signals to the soft top opening and closing procedures. Another reason is also i have noticed, if you by accident do not complete the range of movement and stop mid air the top tends throw this error. Thank you for your all your help and advice, your videos really helped me alot! Keep well and stay blessed🙏
Aquino Stuart , that’s great ! I’m glad you got it going again...nice analysis work indeed 👍👍. Yep, it does sound like a hall sensor was not registering or the back window motor or front latching motor had over travelled and got jammed (due to a hall sensor not picking up to tell it to stop possibly). If, for some reason one of the left or right the flexible drive shafts that do the latching of the top to the upper windshield jump on the spline connection, it will cause the one to travel too far and then the motor cannot back up to reverse the movement (there’s a video on checking the mechanism as well on the channel). That is great news that it was nothing expensive that went bad (like the motors or hydraulic system). Hall sensors and the segment sensors are not expensive to buy...they just take a bit of work to access some of them. If you haven’t found the site yet, RealOEM.com is a great reference for looking at the schematics of the convertible parts and also gives the part numbers for the sensors and things. I don’t think they sell anything anymore from the site (so I’m not giving them free advertising, lol) and I’m not real sure why it even exists anymore, but it does still have the info on the cars. There is also another site if you google “newTIS” that has all of the info for the BMWs (wiring diagrams, troubleshooting, and a ton of other stuff). It’s tough to find info and have to do a lot of clicking, but most everything about the cars is there if you like to research things. Glad you got it going 👍. All the best, Steve
Hi steve i need your help
I have a 2005 645ci and i have no power for closing or open too the button doesnt flash nothing happens i put my scanner it gives me code a695 and a696
Any idea?
Also once I put the back window down with switch it will not go back up I jumped the motor it went back up so I know the rear window motor works.. but once the top does not do anything
All my side windows work normal
Aile aile vos doigts bien sale sur un intérieur beige bravo
I have the same car and the rear window is up can you make a video how to fix it it’s not going down
Jonathan Martinez , hello there are several things that can prevent the window from going down, one if them is a bad hall sensor like the issue fixed in this video, but there could be others like a bad window motor, blown fuse for the motor, bad sensor on the wings in the back or the compartment cover lift sensors. The symptoms are a bit different for each. Will yours lower the side windows when you try to open or close the top, but then won’t do anything else? There have been several questions on how to manually raise or lower the back window so I probably should make a video of manually lowering the window for sure 👍. I’ll try to do that.
Steve’s DIYs yes please
Steve’s DIYs can you do the video please
Jonathan Martinez , hey ! I uploaded the video on how to lower the back window manually onto my channel. Maybe it will help 👍. Thanks for the comments and also reminding me.
Hi.
I need help.
I have BMW 650i 2006 and problem with rear window.
He stayed down and i mechanicl closed roof.
Now i opened roof mechanical and computer dosent give no one problem message of roof and Windows and trunk want Work Now and Windows are now down.
I am crazy 🤣🤣 Can you helo me
Hello, yes, once you pull the manual cables in the trunk to move the top by hand, if one of the sensors is not reading correctly it will not go back in to the automatic function. This also means that none of the side windows will go up and the trunk will no longer open without using the physical key that is inside the key fob (there is a place in the trunk emblem when you tip it up to put the key in just in case you didn’t know this). You will have to determine which sensor is not reading correctly, but until then, you can actually reset the compartment latches manually and the windows and trunk will work again. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to lock the compartment latches back manually that will allow the windows and trunk to work again: th-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/w-d-xo.html . It’s not something that is normally done, so it involves removing the carpet in the trunk, but once you push the latches back to the lock position, the windows should work again until you can determine which sensor (probably either the rear window down position sensor or the segment sensor that is on the left side wing mechanism as they go bad more often it seems). Hope this helps some 👍. Steve