I’ve used this process to rehab an old rusted solid vice… it even stripped the paint off it! Unfortunately there wasn’t enough metal on the irreplaceable parts of that vice to make it a viable project to move forward with and it was scrapped. But, I learned a lot about vinegars magic power lol
I have used muriatic acid in the past, which works a lot faster but needs monitoring. The nice thing about acid is that it gets into all the little nooks and crannies.
I have never tried muriatic acid but I'm sure it would be faster. Vinegar is slow but what I like about it is you can splash around in it without worry.
@@beaubeckett6045 I do fancy horseshoe art which includes bright polishing and have used muriatic acid which is very aggressive but leaves a film that needs to be wire brushed off and can be nasty to breath. Vinegar reaches everywhere including the nail holes and leaves them clean with no residue. You're going to save newbies a lot of time and grime with this video.
What kind of finish do you use to keep your forged pieces from rusting? I’ve used Johnson’s Paste Wax for years, but they’re not making it anymore, so I’m using beeswax now.
Hello. I use a variety of finishes on my metalwork. I use beeswax to blacken traditional items or items that will touch food. Linseed oil works well too but is not food grade and can be sticky. I also use old motor oil on some items (do this outside only). I have a big pail that I dunk hot parts in. This is becoming one of my preferred finishes as it is nice and black and gives an even finish. I have found that none of the above finishes stand up well outside. For stuff outside I just paint it. I use a semi-gloss rust paint. The flat version is too soft and the gloss version I find just looks bad. I hope this helps.
By far this is the best video on this topic. Thanks for you efforts while making it and sharing it with us.
Thanks. I was pretty impressed with how well this works so I wanted to share it. Now practically everything I make spends some time in the vinegar.
I’ve used this process to rehab an old rusted solid vice… it even stripped the paint off it! Unfortunately there wasn’t enough metal on the irreplaceable parts of that vice to make it a viable project to move forward with and it was scrapped. But, I learned a lot about vinegars magic power lol
I will have to remember that when working on rusted solid parts.
Pickled and oiled! Beats picking pieces of knotted wire wheel out of yourself any day.
I know what you mean. I find those things everywhere.
I have used muriatic acid in the past, which works a lot faster but needs monitoring. The nice thing about acid is that it gets into all the little nooks and crannies.
I have never tried muriatic acid but I'm sure it would be faster. Vinegar is slow but what I like about it is you can splash around in it without worry.
@@beaubeckett6045 I do fancy horseshoe art which includes bright polishing and have used muriatic acid which is very aggressive but leaves a film that needs to be wire brushed off and can be nasty to breath. Vinegar reaches everywhere including the nail holes and leaves them clean with no residue. You're going to save newbies a lot of time and grime with this video.
What kind of finish do you use to keep your forged pieces from rusting? I’ve used Johnson’s Paste Wax for years, but they’re not making it anymore, so I’m using beeswax now.
Hello. I use a variety of finishes on my metalwork. I use beeswax to blacken traditional items or items that will touch food. Linseed oil works well too but is not food grade and can be sticky. I also use old motor oil on some items (do this outside only). I have a big pail that I dunk hot parts in. This is becoming one of my preferred finishes as it is nice and black and gives an even finish. I have found that none of the above finishes stand up well outside. For stuff outside I just paint it. I use a semi-gloss rust paint. The flat version is too soft and the gloss version I find just looks bad. I hope this helps.