Interesting video! I cannot find information about titandestillate anywhere, have you got anymore information about it? Trade Name or Supplier or do you sell it? Thanks!
Awesome video..I have a question on lapping con rod bolts for use with Titaniun Rods. Here is what we're dealing with. About 12 yrs ago I had to shelf a project that I am now pursuing. I had Greg Cunningham make me a set of stock length 1998 Subaru 2.5 phase 1 Titanium Connecting Rods which are going into a turbo closed deck block application for a sand car. Greg made his own rod bolts with rolled threads rated at 286,000psi 3/8 bolt. I've been in contact with Lisa Kubo who had a Honda race program and was running Cunningham Rods. I reached out to her with questions as I knew she put her faith in Cunningham Rods so I figured she was a good place to start since Greg Cunningham is now 93 yrs old and sold the business so getting an answer from him might be difficult at best.. Greg never used ARP Ultra-torque on his rod bolt threads, but instead used 80/90wt gear oil instead and also never used a stretch gusge value vs straight torque.. I am trying to do everything correct with this build which brings me to my main question. Lisa told me to make sure I lapped the Connecting Rod Bolts well before installing them. When I sent her a email asking about the process,, she never returned with an answer so I'm even more in the dark now than I was before contacting her originally. Greg's Ti rods are shot peened and plasma moly coated bronze bushed with a combined weight with bolts of 332gr. I'm not 100% sure this was a good decision on my part with incorporating into a turbo eng or not, my thought was faster spool less rotational mass and easier on the bearings vs a heavy steel rod as in the Pauter X Beam 4340 chromoly at 586 that came out.. So any thoughts on how to lap Con rod bolts would be appreciated.. My only thought on this process that I could come up with was to place the caps in soft jaws of a vice, place valve lapping compound under the shoulder of the bolt head, then attach a piece of hose/fuel line the the threaded side of rod bolt and proceed to lap the bolt head to the cap mating surface..I've talked to a lot of racers/builders and no one has been able to give me any advice or even heard of lapping the rod bolts.. Also do u have any advise on why Cunningham would use 80/90 vs Ultra-torque on the threads of the con rod bolts, and who would I contact on rod bolt stretch for Cunningham rod bolts, it's my understanding they were his bolts, but it's unclear as to who actually made them for me to get the right answer from.. Thanks in advance, I subscribed to your channel as I enjoyed the oil squirter video and stumbled upon the ti rod video so I liked your insight and felt you were a good place to start.. Please help me shed some light on my situation..
I am building a Mercedes 5.0L Stroker Engine to 6.0L with a M119 Block. I have to custom order myself Pistons and Connecting rods and I am curious if I would benefit of Ti Connecting rods compare to Steel. Would the engine cause to accelerate faster compare to Stock Steel, will the edge have different characteristics that are noticeable? My Mahle Pistons will also be significant lighter.
The coating is like an exoskeleton I think is what you're trying to say wondering why titanium rods are not popular in drag racing or Dragon Drive events where drag racing cars drive thousands of miles while also drag racing and pulling trailers
The answer to your question is one they’re really expensive and two they’re not advertised because most companies would rather you keep bringing your engine back and swapping through aluminum rods. If you sold a product that lasted it was guaranteed the last you wouldn’t have very many customers after year.
Titanium coats on anything is just a sales gimic. Think of it like this if you put aluminum foil over butter the butter doesn't become stronger it still fails if you can't afford pure Titanium alloy parts just get the strongest stainless steal you can afford it's fine the new starship is stainless steal and it can travel at 18,000 mph through the atmosphere with tons of onbourd payload if it cam handle that it can handle your modified car
Please, for god’s sake do NOT paint your engine blocks orange! If it’s an iron block and it must be painted, stick to OEM color, silver or clear. When I see orange paint it’s like a banner saying, need not look any further, seen one old American pushrod v8, seen them all, nothing interesting here.
Interesting video! I cannot find information about titandestillate anywhere, have you got anymore information about it? Trade Name or Supplier or do you sell it? Thanks!
Awesome video..I have a question on lapping con rod bolts for use with Titaniun Rods. Here is what we're dealing with. About 12 yrs ago I had to shelf a project that I am now pursuing. I had Greg Cunningham make me a set of stock length 1998 Subaru 2.5 phase 1 Titanium Connecting Rods which are going into a turbo closed deck block application for a sand car. Greg made his own rod bolts with rolled threads rated at 286,000psi 3/8 bolt.
I've been in contact with Lisa Kubo who had a Honda race program and was running Cunningham Rods. I reached out to her with questions as I knew she put her faith in Cunningham Rods so I figured she was a good place to start since Greg Cunningham is now 93 yrs old and sold the business so getting an answer from him might be difficult at best.. Greg never used ARP Ultra-torque on his rod bolt threads, but instead used 80/90wt gear oil instead and also never used a stretch gusge value vs straight torque.. I am trying to do everything correct with this build which brings me to my main question. Lisa told me to make sure I lapped the Connecting Rod Bolts well before installing them. When I sent her a email asking about the process,, she never returned with an answer so I'm even more in the dark now than I was before contacting her originally. Greg's Ti rods are shot peened and plasma moly coated bronze bushed with a combined weight with bolts of 332gr. I'm not 100% sure this was a good decision on my part with incorporating into a turbo eng or not, my thought was faster spool less rotational mass and easier on the bearings vs a heavy steel rod as in the Pauter X Beam 4340 chromoly at 586 that came out..
So any thoughts on how to lap Con rod bolts would be appreciated.. My only thought on this process that I could come up with was to place the caps in soft jaws of a vice, place valve lapping compound under the shoulder of the bolt head, then attach a piece of hose/fuel line the the threaded side of rod bolt and proceed to lap the bolt head to the cap mating surface..I've talked to a lot of racers/builders and no one has been able to give me any advice or even heard of lapping the rod bolts..
Also do u have any advise on why Cunningham would use 80/90 vs Ultra-torque on the threads of the con rod bolts, and who would I contact on rod bolt stretch for Cunningham rod bolts, it's my understanding they were his bolts, but it's unclear as to who actually made them for me to get the right answer from..
Thanks in advance, I subscribed to your channel as I enjoyed the oil squirter video and stumbled upon the ti rod video so I liked your insight and felt you were a good place to start.. Please help me shed some light on my situation..
The gold color is Titanium Nitride coating ;)
Thank you very much , you are the best!
I am building a Mercedes 5.0L Stroker Engine to 6.0L with a M119 Block. I have to custom order myself Pistons and Connecting rods and I am curious if I would benefit of Ti Connecting rods compare to Steel. Would the engine cause to accelerate faster compare to Stock Steel, will the edge have different characteristics that are noticeable? My Mahle Pistons will also be significant lighter.
It will have a smoother idle a rev faster and higher. You will love it.
I like your videos and I like your produckts!! I bought a fuel pump for my 1,8t Seat Ibiza Cupra and the car go soo great know
What is the material called that you use to keep things from rusting corroding?
Can you use the titanium distillate on brake hubs which commonly get rusty even when painted?
Never tested to be honest but I would give a try ;-)
And where does one buy titanium distillate ?
The coating is like an exoskeleton I think is what you're trying to say wondering why titanium rods are not popular in drag racing or Dragon Drive events where drag racing cars drive thousands of miles while also drag racing and pulling trailers
The answer to your question is one they’re really expensive and two they’re not advertised because most companies would rather you keep bringing your engine back and swapping through aluminum rods. If you sold a product that lasted it was guaranteed the last you wouldn’t have very many customers after year.
Its Rasier and cheaper to buy News Rods than Break your crank/Change it regulary.
Titanium coats on anything is just a sales gimic. Think of it like this if you put aluminum foil over butter the butter doesn't become stronger it still fails if you can't afford pure Titanium alloy parts just get the strongest stainless steal you can afford it's fine the new starship is stainless steal and it can travel at 18,000 mph through the atmosphere with tons of onbourd payload if it cam handle that it can handle your modified car
Carbon steel, the word you looking for?!
thx ;-)
Molibdênio.
Please, for god’s sake do NOT paint your engine blocks orange! If it’s an iron block and it must be painted, stick to OEM color, silver or clear. When I see orange paint it’s like a banner saying, need not look any further, seen one old American pushrod v8, seen them all, nothing interesting here.