I am amazed at how complicated these systems can be. The closest that I came to your line of work was changing filters and belts in the roof mounted units on factories, restaurants and stores. I almost lost my arm in one while replacing the belt. I moved to grab a tool and just as my arm was clear the unit kicked on. It turned out that someone bypassed all the shut offs that were located next to the units. Every single unit was tampered with. I notified the fire dept anonymously (they did the safety inspections). I didn't want someone else servicing them getting hurt or worse. I knew that telling the property manager would be pointless as it was their people that did the bypassing. City inspector and Fire Chief were involved. That place was a fire and death trap and the fines were in the thousands.
never, ever rely upon a disconnect to work! always test and confirm power is off with a meter, all live conductors with each other and all of them to neutral/earth(both!) you may not have a second chance.
@@throttlebottle5906 , I agree however this was @30 years ago and we were given nothing beyond a power screwdriver and a few hand tools. I quit after that incident.
We work on a ton of those old Rheem/Ruud coffin style systems, mostly because my company installed them many years ago, and I love them. The condensers especially are super service friendly. And we still install Rheem equipment, and it has proven to be really good stuff. Very rarely factory defects, shipping issues, or warranty repairs.
They do seem easier than many to work on. I may go with Rheem. I just wish Curtis was near me, he would most definitely get my business. The honesty and great workmanship means everything to me, even if it costs a little more.
The coils are the same for the most part. You can set it up with the expansion valve, expansion tube, TXV or what have you for the freon you use. Curtis used the mo99, so you can use that in a r22 system without changing anything.
I commend you for trying to save your customers money by not trying to upsell them stuff they can't afford. Not everyone has unlimited money and resources. Great job.
I just installed a 18,000 Btu heat pump for my neighbor, the ductless unit is not the correct size for their home, but it is what they can afford. They bought the unit at Amazon for $899 including the tubing kit that is 15' long. I installed it in their living room, and told them they would still need to run their electric furnace with a 10 KW electric heater on the very cold days, but at least they can avoid running the electric heat most days. They are VERY happy with the nearly silent system. It is R-410, 17 SEER, and 9.0 HPSF. IT is all they could afford. I know the 21 SEER 10 HPSF model will save them money in the long run, but the $1,200 cost was not in their budget this year, so they went for what they can afford. I think the ducted unit was probably about 24,000 Btu R-22 heat pump that died about 15 years ago, before they moved in. They have been running the electric heat all these years, and I did not know about it. They could spend $200 - $400 a month in Portland Oregon, where 32F is a rare event most winter nights. I was 23F for 4 days recently, and they reported no problems! My heat pump had so much ice on the top of it, that the ice fell into the fan and prevented it from turning, and I discovered this the first 34F day we had, used my garden hose to thaw it out and run the fan without the compressor wire connected to thaw any more ice on the coil. IT has been in the upper 40's now, so everything is back to normal. I have a 2014 Goodman 14 SEER R-410 4 ton system with 1,800 square feet and I never connected the back up heater. Yes I get cold air during defrost, but I am OK with that. I sized my system not for the cooling load (like many do) but for the heating load at 23F. So it is rated at 25,000 Btu's at 23F - the lowest outside air temperature that I will normally have to deal with in Portland. I only have below 32F for about 30 days in 4 years. (some years never go below 30, this year we had 4 days so far). I have a feeling that the modern heat pump will save them about $100 per month for November to March. So payback will be in about 2-3 years. Also the air conditioner will be Silent! So no more buying window shakers! And this unit should use about 2/3 of the power of those window shaker units. I have a feeling that if the customer installed a R-410 system, with lower refrigerant costs, and higher efficiency, they could have saved the cost of the new system in a few years.
@@Kangenpower7 I agree with you totally. My system is a 4 ton Goodman, not a heat pump, but a split system and it is only 12 seer. It was a good one, never touched it for 13 years. The dang evaporator started leaking slow and I've been limping along for 4 years now. I know when it needs a charge because the efficiency goes in the dumper. I am going with all new and I am leaning towards the Rheem. I will post what I get when it is time. Not sure yet if I am going to change the whole air handler and furnace or just the evaporator, on the fence right now.
There are 2 ways an AC system comes out of a house: When the homeowner wants it to. Or when the system wants to. I'm am big fan of letting the homeowner decide when it comes out. Because if you leave it up to the system to decide, the system typically fails for its last time on the hottest days of the year. There are advantages to being able to offer homeowners financing. Where I live, a new AC split system costs at least $14,000. That's about as much as a lower priced new car costs. & I see a lot of people who live pay check to pay check, driving new vehicles. So they way I see it, is if they need a new AC system that costs 14 grand.....they'll come up with the money, or get financed through their bank if th installer can't finance them. Believing that people can't afford a new system, is not an excuse to convince them into putting a large amount of money into a major sealed system repair, if the system is out of warranty. This is why we owe it to our customers to give them both repair estimates AND replacement estimates. & then let them decide which they would like to do. & if they want to put over $1000 into a dinosaur system that already lost a significant amount of its efficiency due to excessive age.....then that's on them if they end up regretting it. But a company that has not presented them with all their options on that initial call....has done a dis-service to that customer, & SHOULD take full responsibility if the only option they offered back-fires on their customer. Its all about honesty & equipping your customer with everything they need to make the choice that they feel is best for them.....regardless of what the price tags are, on those choices.
Watching pull the evaporator coil out reminded me of the video where you put one on your shoulder and carried it up a pull down stair case and barely made it threw the opening. This one was one of your easier coil installs.
Hello,THOSE Rheem, R22units we quite popular,,in the past I only used R22,but have not had any use on the blue stuff yet, but being retired,I only do work,for people I know, stay well, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
In Texas where I live, most contractors would price a coil replacement at $1,800-$2,200.00; basically forcing the owner to REPLACE the entire air-handler. I can see you are trying to help someone who needs cooling but has limited funds. Hope the customer gets a few more years service life out of his equipment, thanks to you Curtis. Kudos.
We guys always Hate when the front of our pants get wet. It’s difficult to explain to anyone what really happened. 😬 Keep up the strong 💪 efforts, Curtis. 👍🙏
Great job. You were very professional. I loved the video I'm too fat to do all that as seamlessly and gracefully as you did. You made a tough job look easy. Many people would have told that man to buy a new unit but you gave that unit a good ol tune up. Thanks for posting.
Great video. Nothing wrong with pinching, it's an acceptable procedure when brazing. I've done it many times over the last 40 years, and never had any problems. Good job, you're very thorough.
I hope you padded that repair/ replacement for not too distant callbacks on more sprung leaks or at least make them aware that’s a risk they have to be willing to accept and pay down the road for leak searches & repairs.
The last time I bought some R-22 it was $800 or $850 for a 30 pound container back in 2018. I think it has gone way up since then. I would never recommend a customer stay with a 10 SEER R-22 unit, just because of energy costs! It is sort of like rebuilding the engine on a 1975 car that gets 9 MPG. I would be selling them a modern heat pump with R-410 and much higher ability to collect heat when it is 5F outside! Back in the early 80's R-22 and R-12 both cost about $45 for a 30 pound container. Then the R-12 tax started to make them cost well over $125. In 1993, I got certified to use a refrigerant recovery machine. When I went to school in 1983, they did not have a recovery machine, I think it was about 1987 before I heard of them.
I like how you shimmied the valve core out while removing it under pressure. I’ve had problems with the schrader valves getting stuck and having to push the end back in multiple times thinking it grabbed ahold.
It's from over tightening the tool on the flare of the king valve. It will squish the large o-ring the tool has and obstruct the path for the core to be removed. If you have trouble getting the correct torque, just loosen the core then very slowly and carefully loosen the tool till you get a faint hiss as if you are purging, trying not to lose any refrigerant. You now know where you can have the least torque leaving the o-ring not deforming.
@@jrtakesthesky27 oh okay cool! It doesn’t feel like I’m tightening it too much. But, I’m definitely going to try and see next time I use it. Thank you!!
Another great job Curtis! I've only done a mini-split but the principle seems the same. Took me a while to figure out how the Schrader valve extractor tools work though. When you braze do you fill the system with low pressure nitrogen?
Hello, I was just wondering when you was working the outside Condenser and the bottom had a bunch of pine needles. Do you clean them out when you are done with the repairs?
Nothing wrong with a little pinch in a pinch. You did a great job on that old system. That evaporator looked crooked, but may not have been helped. Personally, I would have tried to sell them a new system, maybe you did and it was unaffordable for them or one of those home insurance jobs. Well we will see what the future holds. I am sort of in the same boat. My unit is an old r22, but I am afraid if I just do the evaporator, how long before the compressor or condenser coil goes? I am going to bite the bullet I think, not sure if I can limp along another season. At least I have gas and it is not a shmeat pump.
@@bobboscarato1313 That may be true Bob, but I remember many moons ago, people had nothing but trouble with them, and it wasn't any particular brand. It was a new thing so they did have bugs to work out. I have known many to say, never again. Now look at this one 23 years old, wrong liquid line and still kickin'. That is why I'm sure Curtis called me out.
Was it above 70 when you did this? I had a new air handler installed in September, but when it got down to 10 degrees on christmas eve, my heater couldn't keep the house warm. Was told the system was 2 pounds low on freon(407c). No leaks were found, but they couldn't add freon because it was below 70. Is that normal? I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Thanks!
Curtis, what would be your first guess/diagnosis on a blower motor that runs normally sometimes, but then takes longer then usual to come on during heating cycles? I seem to have that problem. It is not making any unusual noises such as grinding/squealing to signal a bearing is going out. I have a gas furnace, and everything else cycles on as it should.
How long is longer? Longer than cooling? Furnaces (at least the gas ones I know) have a way to sense the temperature and then kick on the fan..but there’s usually a small delay, you hear it click, then the draft motor and ignition, then the fan sometime after that..if it’s really long then could be a sequencer isn’t working right, or a flame sensor is taking a while or is slightly out of position, or a control board is sending wrong information or..I’m guessing, hvac isn’t my thing..but I have learned quite a lot from his videos, lol..
@@johncspine2787 I say maybe twice as long then normal for the blower motor to come on. But, it seems to be cycling normally for now. It was a cold rainy day yesterday, about 37F and the furnace ran with no issues. If it happens again I guess I will have to get someone out to check it. It was serviced back in the fall and given a clean bill of health so. Its an old beast of a furnace, a Carrier Weather Maker 9200
Flex duct and units installed like that is unfortunately a common sight down here in Victoria Australia…architects and builders leave nowhere near enough room for these systems…that and everyone wants damn 12ft ceilings everywhere 😅
Curtis couple questions. Why not just cut out the service valves and not worry about them anymore if you’re allowed to do that down there. 2 .. why are ok with this unit having 5/16 LL when yesterday unit it had 5/16 and you said it was under size. Not trying to a smart ass just wondering
It affected this one too. I actually didn’t catch that on my first visit out, then we were only running in cool, and it wasn’t showing itself. But, today when I ran it in heat it did. Not as bad as the other, but it did. But, the short was I didn’t catch it the first time out.
They sell the R-410 coil that is rated at about 550 PSI, and will also work with R-22 when you use a R-22 expansion valve. The R-22 normally does not go over about 350 PSI, and normally has a high pressure cut out at about 400 PSI, while R-410 cut out is much higher pressure. So the R-410 rated coils should last longer leak free than a R-22 coil that has a lower "Maximum service pressure" rating. That said, many installers will say (and salesman) that the R-22 coil is not available to get you to buy a new R-410 system. My thought is to offer the customer a choice and say "This repair comes with no compressor warranty, and the energy cost will be so much per 100,000 Btu's of heating and so many KW per 100,000 Btu's of cooling capacity." And the modern high efficiency R-410 unit will cost this much to get 100,000 Btu's of heat and 100,000 Btu's of cooling. This is normally about 20% less electricity than the older system like the 10 SEER units installed in the year 2000 by a tract home installer. (Who knows it might be a 8 SEER, I installed a couple of those back in the early 90's). 14 SEER will typically use 40% less power than a 10 SEER system. This is why many times they need to install a smaller circuit breaker to protect the newer high efficiency units. When I replaced my 1972 18,000 Btu unit (amp probe says it draws 18 amps of power) with a 24,000 Btu 12 SEER unit in 2000, I replaced the 40 amp circuit breaker with a 20 amp circuit breaker. My new home, I have a 48,000 Btu 14 SEER heat pump and 30 amp fuses, they never tripped in 8 years! It uses so much less power than the older units did. And in a heat pump, the higher suction pressure generates a lot more heat in the winter, making heat pumps run much better than this 22 year old system.
most all R-410a coils will work fine with R-22, as long as you install a correctly sized piston or TXV. they're often listed and rated for it, and give the proper piston/txv, which you need to order separate or have on hand.
Still using R22? In Sweden the old "goldies" R12, R 502 and R 22are were banned due to the Clorine content - as early as 1991. Now we are loosing others - like R 404 A, R 407 C and R 410 A due to the GWP levels. Tired of changing tools and equipments.
The idea is that you "Should" not mix MO99 and any other refrigerant. This is because when you recover MO99, it goes into a MO99 recovery tank, and not a mixed refrigerant tank. The mixed refrigerant tanks are much more expensive to send to a recovery place. There are other reasons to not mix them, also chemical reactions between the two fluids, and different pressures and so on.
They claim that you can, but I am always weary about mixing. I never heard that it was illegal. You can get in trouble if you release r22 into the atmosphere.
my recollection is MO99 is not for topping off systems, but used as a replacement when major components are replaced which I guess means it is compatible with the r22 oil.
I agree, but this neighborhood probably does not have many Land Rovers in it. I like to tell the customer that the older R-22 systems do not collect as much heat in the winter as the modern R-410 systems, and that a 10 SEER system will use about 10 KW of electricity to heat or cool 100,000 Btu's while a 14 SEER system will only use about 7 KW. So a huge savings over the long run. And the new equipment will usually come with a 10 year compressor warranty. However if investing $1,000 in a repair means they can keep buying food for the kids and investing $4,000 is not a option, you have to do what you can afford. So saving $0.40 per hour and only running the system about 1,000 hours per year, it would take a really long time to pay back the higher installation costs. Yet it might help if there is rebates for installing higher efficiency heat pumps in your area. A $200 per ton of capacity rebate could save about $400 - $600 on a system this size, and by saving $400 a year in electricity, and not needing to do the $1000 repair, the savings for a new $4,000 system is starting to look better.
I love the way people install these systems and seem to be thoroughly convinced that they will never need to be serviced.
I am amazed at how complicated these systems can be. The closest that I came to your line of work was changing filters and belts in the roof mounted units on factories, restaurants and stores. I almost lost my arm in one while replacing the belt. I moved to grab a tool and just as my arm was clear the unit kicked on. It turned out that someone bypassed all the shut offs that were located next to the units. Every single unit was tampered with. I notified the fire dept anonymously (they did the safety inspections). I didn't want someone else servicing them getting hurt or worse. I knew that telling the property manager would be pointless as it was their people that did the bypassing. City inspector and Fire Chief were involved. That place was a fire and death trap and the fines were in the thousands.
never, ever rely upon a disconnect to work! always test and confirm power is off with a meter, all live conductors with each other and all of them to neutral/earth(both!)
you may not have a second chance.
@@throttlebottle5906 , I agree however this was @30 years ago and we were given nothing beyond a power screwdriver and a few hand tools. I quit after that incident.
We work on a ton of those old Rheem/Ruud coffin style systems, mostly because my company installed them many years ago, and I love them. The condensers especially are super service friendly. And we still install Rheem equipment, and it has proven to be really good stuff. Very rarely factory defects, shipping issues, or warranty repairs.
They do seem easier than many to work on. I may go with Rheem. I just wish Curtis was near me, he would most definitely get my business. The honesty and great workmanship means everything to me, even if it costs a little more.
😂.. I love those bloopers... You should put them at the end of all of your videos.. I never seen anybody else do that that's awesome..👍
I like how you fix old stuff. In my area, most won’t. If it’s a 22 system, won’t work on it for refrigerant.
I’m amazed you could still obtain a replacement coil for that. Nice job at a very challenging location.
The coils are the same for the most part. You can set it up with the expansion valve, expansion tube, TXV or what have you for the freon you use. Curtis used the mo99, so you can use that in a r22 system without changing anything.
I commend you for trying to save your customers money by not trying to upsell them stuff they can't afford. Not everyone has unlimited money and resources. Great job.
I agree with what you said, I just hope it wasn't a waste and end up costing them more in the long run. Time will tell.
@@jthonn Agreed....if it buys them enough time until they can get a new system...
I just installed a 18,000 Btu heat pump for my neighbor, the ductless unit is not the correct size for their home, but it is what they can afford. They bought the unit at Amazon for $899 including the tubing kit that is 15' long. I installed it in their living room, and told them they would still need to run their electric furnace with a 10 KW electric heater on the very cold days, but at least they can avoid running the electric heat most days. They are VERY happy with the nearly silent system.
It is R-410, 17 SEER, and 9.0 HPSF. IT is all they could afford. I know the 21 SEER 10 HPSF model will save them money in the long run, but the $1,200 cost was not in their budget this year, so they went for what they can afford.
I think the ducted unit was probably about 24,000 Btu R-22 heat pump that died about 15 years ago, before they moved in. They have been running the electric heat all these years, and I did not know about it. They could spend $200 - $400 a month in Portland Oregon, where 32F is a rare event most winter nights. I was 23F for 4 days recently, and they reported no problems!
My heat pump had so much ice on the top of it, that the ice fell into the fan and prevented it from turning, and I discovered this the first 34F day we had, used my garden hose to thaw it out and run the fan without the compressor wire connected to thaw any more ice on the coil. IT has been in the upper 40's now, so everything is back to normal. I have a 2014 Goodman 14 SEER R-410 4 ton system with 1,800 square feet and I never connected the back up heater. Yes I get cold air during defrost, but I am OK with that. I sized my system not for the cooling load (like many do) but for the heating load at 23F. So it is rated at 25,000 Btu's at 23F - the lowest outside air temperature that I will normally have to deal with in Portland. I only have below 32F for about 30 days in 4 years. (some years never go below 30, this year we had 4 days so far).
I have a feeling that the modern heat pump will save them about $100 per month for November to March. So payback will be in about 2-3 years. Also the air conditioner will be Silent! So no more buying window shakers! And this unit should use about 2/3 of the power of those window shaker units.
I have a feeling that if the customer installed a R-410 system, with lower refrigerant costs, and higher efficiency, they could have saved the cost of the new system in a few years.
@@Kangenpower7 I agree with you totally. My system is a 4 ton Goodman, not a heat pump, but a split system and it is only 12 seer. It was a good one, never touched it for 13 years. The dang evaporator started leaking slow and I've been limping along for 4 years now. I know when it needs a charge because the efficiency goes in the dumper. I am going with all new and I am leaning towards the Rheem. I will post what I get when it is time. Not sure yet if I am going to change the whole air handler and furnace or just the evaporator, on the fence right now.
There are 2 ways an AC system comes out of a house:
When the homeowner wants it to.
Or when the system wants to.
I'm am big fan of letting the homeowner decide when it comes out. Because if you leave it up to the system to decide, the system typically fails for its last time on the hottest days of the year.
There are advantages to being able to offer homeowners financing.
Where I live, a new AC split system costs at least $14,000.
That's about as much as a lower priced new car costs.
& I see a lot of people who live pay check to pay check, driving new vehicles.
So they way I see it, is if they need a new AC system that costs 14 grand.....they'll come up with the money, or get financed through their bank if th installer can't finance them.
Believing that people can't afford a new system, is not an excuse to convince them into putting a large amount of money into a major sealed system repair, if the system is out of warranty.
This is why we owe it to our customers to give them both repair estimates AND replacement estimates. & then let them decide which they would like to do.
& if they want to put over $1000 into a dinosaur system that already lost a significant amount of its efficiency due to excessive age.....then that's on them if they end up regretting it.
But a company that has not presented them with all their options on that initial call....has done a dis-service to that customer, & SHOULD take full responsibility if the only option they offered back-fires on their customer.
Its all about honesty & equipping your customer with everything they need to make the choice that they feel is best for them.....regardless of what the price tags are, on those choices.
Nice work Curtis. That flex duct was a mess. I hate that stuff.
If you ever do merch I know what needs to be on your 1st t shirt Lovely.
Watching pull the evaporator coil out reminded me of the video where you put one on your shoulder and carried it up a pull down stair case and barely made it threw the opening. This one was one of your easier
coil installs.
Hello,THOSE Rheem, R22units we quite popular,,in the past I only used R22,but have not had any use on the blue stuff yet, but being retired,I only do work,for people I know, stay well,
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
In Texas where I live, most contractors would price a coil replacement at $1,800-$2,200.00; basically forcing the owner to REPLACE the entire air-handler. I can see you are trying to help someone who needs cooling but has limited funds. Hope the customer gets a few more years service life out of his equipment, thanks to you Curtis. Kudos.
We guys always Hate when the front of our pants get wet. It’s difficult to explain to anyone what really happened. 😬 Keep up the strong 💪 efforts, Curtis. 👍🙏
I hose up a little higher, that way it looks like a spill. That works too if you pee on yourself.
Great job. You were very professional. I loved the video I'm too fat to do all that as seamlessly and gracefully as you did. You made a tough job look easy. Many people would have told that man to buy a new unit but you gave that unit a good ol tune up. Thanks for posting.
Great video. Nothing wrong with pinching, it's an acceptable procedure when brazing. I've done it many times over the last 40 years, and never had any problems. Good job, you're very thorough.
The lizard on the condenser coil was cute...
Where? Time stamp please 🙏.
Not so cute if he shorts out your compressor, I have seen it happen.
Super great job Curtis
That's ''Snot'' a bad brazing job at all 😂🤣😅 Thx for another good job vid ...👍👍👍
Thanks for all the great videos!
I hope you padded that repair/ replacement for not too distant callbacks on more sprung leaks or at least make them aware that’s a risk they have to be willing to accept and pay down the road for leak searches & repairs.
Do they not do mechanical inspections in South Georgia lol. I feel bad for you when I see some of the crap you have to work on. Great vid Curtis
The last time I bought some R-22 it was $800 or $850 for a 30 pound container back in 2018. I think it has gone way up since then. I would never recommend a customer stay with a 10 SEER R-22 unit, just because of energy costs! It is sort of like rebuilding the engine on a 1975 car that gets 9 MPG. I would be selling them a modern heat pump with R-410 and much higher ability to collect heat when it is 5F outside!
Back in the early 80's R-22 and R-12 both cost about $45 for a 30 pound container. Then the R-12 tax started to make them cost well over $125. In 1993, I got certified to use a refrigerant recovery machine. When I went to school in 1983, they did not have a recovery machine, I think it was about 1987 before I heard of them.
I like how you shimmied the valve core out while removing it under pressure. I’ve had problems with the schrader valves getting stuck and having to push the end back in multiple times thinking it grabbed ahold.
It's from over tightening the tool on the flare of the king valve. It will squish the large o-ring the tool has and obstruct the path for the core to be removed. If you have trouble getting the correct torque, just loosen the core then very slowly and carefully loosen the tool till you get a faint hiss as if you are purging, trying not to lose any refrigerant. You now know where you can have the least torque leaving the o-ring not deforming.
@@jrtakesthesky27 oh okay cool! It doesn’t feel like I’m tightening it too much. But, I’m definitely going to try and see next time I use it. Thank you!!
Another great job Curtis! I've only done a mini-split but the principle seems the same. Took me a while to figure out how the Schrader valve extractor tools work though. When you braze do you fill the system with low pressure nitrogen?
Takes a real scumbag to rough a house in like that. Good work Curtis helping out your customer
Hello, I was just wondering when you was working the outside Condenser and the bottom had a bunch of pine needles. Do you clean them out when you are done with the repairs?
Adding a 5,2,1 hardstart may also give a little longer life on that old compressor
If it is not drawing too many amps, doesn't need it. Age is not a factor.
Nothing wrong with a little pinch in a pinch. You did a great job on that old system. That evaporator looked crooked, but may not have been helped. Personally, I would have tried to sell them a new system, maybe you did and it was unaffordable for them or one of those home insurance jobs. Well we will see what the future holds. I am sort of in the same boat. My unit is an old r22, but I am afraid if I just do the evaporator, how long before the compressor or condenser coil goes? I am going to bite the bullet I think, not sure if I can limp along another season. At least I have gas and it is not a shmeat pump.
How did heat pumps get a bad rap?
@@HVACGUY Sorry, It is an old saying from the old Vern & Ernest commercials, I'm sure they are much better now days.
Too many HVAC service men weren't trained to service heat pumps; so they just say bad things about them!
@@bobboscarato1313 That may be true Bob, but I remember many moons ago, people had nothing but trouble with them, and it wasn't any particular brand. It was a new thing so they did have bugs to work out. I have known many to say, never again. Now look at this one 23 years old, wrong liquid line and still kickin'. That is why I'm sure Curtis called me out.
Was it above 70 when you did this? I had a new air handler installed in September, but when it got down to 10 degrees on christmas eve, my heater couldn't keep the house warm. Was told the system was 2 pounds low on freon(407c). No leaks were found, but they couldn't add freon because it was below 70. Is that normal? I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Thanks!
Curtis, what would be your first guess/diagnosis on a blower motor that runs normally sometimes, but then takes longer then usual to come on during heating cycles? I seem to have that problem. It is not making any unusual noises such as grinding/squealing to signal a bearing is going out. I have a gas furnace, and everything else cycles on as it should.
How long is longer? Longer than cooling? Furnaces (at least the gas ones I know) have a way to sense the temperature and then kick on the fan..but there’s usually a small delay, you hear it click, then the draft motor and ignition, then the fan sometime after that..if it’s really long then could be a sequencer isn’t working right, or a flame sensor is taking a while or is slightly out of position, or a control board is sending wrong information or..I’m guessing, hvac isn’t my thing..but I have learned quite a lot from his videos, lol..
@@johncspine2787 I say maybe twice as long then normal for the blower motor to come on. But, it seems to be cycling normally for now. It was a cold rainy day yesterday, about 37F and the furnace ran with no issues. If it happens again I guess I will have to get someone out to check it. It was serviced back in the fall and given a clean bill of health so. Its an old beast of a furnace, a Carrier Weather Maker 9200
On a scale of 1 to 10, how organized is your side of the closet at home?
How are those Klein pliers wrench? Looks new since I cannot find it lol, and I'm always looking to shed some weight.
Flex duct and units installed like that is unfortunately a common sight down here in Victoria Australia…architects and builders leave nowhere near enough room for these systems…that and everyone wants damn 12ft ceilings everywhere 😅
Hey Curtis what stuff was that u put on that cap
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Curtis couple questions. Why not just cut out the service valves and not worry about them anymore if you’re allowed to do that down there. 2 .. why are ok with this unit having 5/16 LL when yesterday unit it had 5/16 and you said it was under size. Not trying to a smart ass just wondering
Actually it was 2days ago
It affected this one too. I actually didn’t catch that on my first visit out, then we were only running in cool, and it wasn’t showing itself. But, today when I ran it in heat it did. Not as bad as the other, but it did. But, the short was I didn’t catch it the first time out.
@@HVACGUY Thankyou you know you can use about 25-30ft of 5/16 on a 3ton per Rheem. Thankyou for your time you did a good job Hope the leak loc works
I never use the inner part of the flex always hard pipe with the insulation over it you lose so much air flow with the flex
The newer stuff is a little better, but I do agree the hard pipe is better, if it will work for you on a new install.
I cleaned my field piece micron gauge with alcohol and now it will not work. So upset
If you lose power on your vac pump you could also pull vac pump oil into your system
A lot of newer modern pump designs have a non return built in to prevent this. I have a newer Rothemburger R32 brushless pump which has this feature 👍
Why did u clean the drain pan the rusty one ?
$$$
How did you get ahold of a r22 coil?
It’s still available
They sell the R-410 coil that is rated at about 550 PSI, and will also work with R-22 when you use a R-22 expansion valve. The R-22 normally does not go over about 350 PSI, and normally has a high pressure cut out at about 400 PSI, while R-410 cut out is much higher pressure. So the R-410 rated coils should last longer leak free than a R-22 coil that has a lower "Maximum service pressure" rating.
That said, many installers will say (and salesman) that the R-22 coil is not available to get you to buy a new R-410 system.
My thought is to offer the customer a choice and say "This repair comes with no compressor warranty, and the energy cost will be so much per 100,000 Btu's of heating and so many KW per 100,000 Btu's of cooling capacity." And the modern high efficiency R-410 unit will cost this much to get 100,000 Btu's of heat and 100,000 Btu's of cooling. This is normally about 20% less electricity than the older system like the 10 SEER units installed in the year 2000 by a tract home installer. (Who knows it might be a 8 SEER, I installed a couple of those back in the early 90's).
14 SEER will typically use 40% less power than a 10 SEER system. This is why many times they need to install a smaller circuit breaker to protect the newer high efficiency units.
When I replaced my 1972 18,000 Btu unit (amp probe says it draws 18 amps of power) with a 24,000 Btu 12 SEER unit in 2000, I replaced the 40 amp circuit breaker with a 20 amp circuit breaker. My new home, I have a 48,000 Btu 14 SEER heat pump and 30 amp fuses, they never tripped in 8 years! It uses so much less power than the older units did. And in a heat pump, the higher suction pressure generates a lot more heat in the winter, making heat pumps run much better than this 22 year old system.
most all R-410a coils will work fine with R-22, as long as you install a correctly sized piston or TXV. they're often listed and rated for it, and give the proper piston/txv, which you need to order separate or have on hand.
Still using R22? In Sweden the old "goldies" R12, R 502 and R 22are were banned due to the Clorine content - as early as 1991. Now we are loosing others - like R 404 A, R 407 C and R 410 A due to the GWP levels. Tired of changing tools and equipments.
He used mo99
Can you mix mo99 with 22?
The idea is that you "Should" not mix MO99 and any other refrigerant. This is because when you recover MO99, it goes into a MO99 recovery tank, and not a mixed refrigerant tank. The mixed refrigerant tanks are much more expensive to send to a recovery place.
There are other reasons to not mix them, also chemical reactions between the two fluids, and different pressures and so on.
it is illegal to do that.
They claim that you can, but I am always weary about mixing. I never heard that it was illegal. You can get in trouble if you release r22 into the atmosphere.
@@Kangenpower7 so what was he doing then? Was the system already on mo99?
my recollection is MO99 is not for topping off systems, but used as a replacement when major components are replaced which I guess means it is compatible with the r22 oil.
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That unit is 3 years older than me
LMAO, must have been a good one! Maybe it was worth fixing.
That’s crazy. 23 year old r22 system should have been replaced.
exactly!this guy will definitely call you back and say its your fault 3 months from now if the compressor fails
I agree, but maybe there was a reason.
I agree, but this neighborhood probably does not have many Land Rovers in it.
I like to tell the customer that the older R-22 systems do not collect as much heat in the winter as the modern R-410 systems, and that a 10 SEER system will use about 10 KW of electricity to heat or cool 100,000 Btu's while a 14 SEER system will only use about 7 KW. So a huge savings over the long run. And the new equipment will usually come with a 10 year compressor warranty.
However if investing $1,000 in a repair means they can keep buying food for the kids and investing $4,000 is not a option, you have to do what you can afford.
So saving $0.40 per hour and only running the system about 1,000 hours per year, it would take a really long time to pay back the higher installation costs. Yet it might help if there is rebates for installing higher efficiency heat pumps in your area. A $200 per ton of capacity rebate could save about $400 - $600 on a system this size, and by saving $400 a year in electricity, and not needing to do the $1000 repair, the savings for a new $4,000 system is starting to look better.
@@Kangenpower7 You are lucky to find a new system for 4k now days. Then the install, you are looking at 6 to 7 depending on the size and seer.
Doesn't look like an ideal line of work for people carrying extra weight.
my ac man is at least 400lbs.
@@jthonn I'll bet he has fun in tight attics and low crawl spaces.
Old R22 unit should have been replaced!