Looking at this video from two years ago, You should not have to drive any of the bearings on. I have had my 47" blowers apart many times. A problem I have found on these blowers is where the Auger Drive shaft goes through the Auger Gear Box, there is a short key driving that shaft and after a few years, the key wears the shaft so there is a lot of slow between the shaft and the gear box. I had to have my brother cut a new key way on the shaft lengthening the key way to the full width of the the slot in the gear box. I am getting a new 47" blower this week and I will replace the plastic fan, do the flapper mod and have my son cut a new key way to fit the auger gear box. I am also installing the Deck Dolly chute rotation conversion kit and the electric chute deflection actuator.
You can take an extra bearing retainer plate and tack weld the bolts to it. Then slide it in BEHIND the impeller so the bolts stick through the backside. There is plenty of room for the impeller to clear and it makes it extremely easy to remove the shaft bearing in the future without fighting those bolts.
Try a piece of tape on the bearing supports or a bread tie. Then put everything together loosely. After everything is assembled start to tighten the bolting and continually check for tight spots and binding. The bearings that JD uses are kind of cheap and the driven shaft has a hardened gear yet the auger side gear is not so it becomes an expensive and time consuming replacement. This would be a much better option with a gear drive system. You already have shear bolts and keys as protective assurances against damage. Plus the Shute cables cross each other a become an abrasion point at the spindle/pulley.
I would agree based on the video sound, in person it sounds very different. I attributed it to some small pebbles and sand in the housing. I’ve hooked it up to the X758 and run it (no snow to play with) and there were no unusual sounds.
I watched this and went out to inspect my blower and it came with a gearbox from teh dealer. JD must have made the change within the last couple years ?
Hi, have you ever tried those greaseable bearings with the new mounting/retaining plates that has a grease zerk in it? Apparently people claim that if you grease them every year, you will never have to replace those bearings on your snowblower again.... Bearing Retention plate PN: G52MSA, Bearing pn: ssa205-16. I'd love to see your video/review on that.
You are not wrong. I’m not sure what part of the video I addressed that in but basically this is a back up to a back up unit that I will run occasionally to have a little fun. $50 for the repairs in this video vs the $163 for a gear box. If it was a main unit it would have been an easy decision to go with a gear box.
Out of curiosity why is it a mistake? Overall cost was was less than $50. It certainly would have been a different discussion if I would have needed to change additional bearings or sprockets. Meanwhile the gear case (AUC16953) is $163. I would certainly replace the gear case if all the drive components were worn out and I had no intentions of speeding up the blower through a smaller impeller and auger drive sprocket.
This video is the first on youtube for our blower. Thanks
Looking at this video from two years ago, You should not have to drive any of the bearings on. I have had my 47" blowers apart many times. A problem I have found on these blowers is where the Auger Drive shaft goes through the Auger Gear Box, there is a short key driving that shaft and after a few years, the key wears the shaft so there is a lot of slow between the shaft and the gear box. I had to have my brother cut a new key way on the shaft lengthening the key way to the full width of the the slot in the gear box. I am getting a new 47" blower this week and I will replace the plastic fan, do the flapper mod and have my son cut a new key way to fit the auger gear box. I am also installing the Deck Dolly chute rotation conversion kit and the electric chute deflection actuator.
You can take an extra bearing retainer plate and tack weld the bolts to it. Then slide it in BEHIND the impeller so the bolts stick through the backside. There is plenty of room for the impeller to clear and it makes it extremely easy to remove the shaft bearing in the future without fighting those bolts.
That’s a good suggestion!
Try a piece of tape on the bearing supports or a bread tie. Then put everything together loosely. After everything is assembled start to tighten the bolting and continually check for tight spots and binding. The bearings that JD uses are kind of cheap and the driven shaft has a hardened gear yet the auger side gear is not so it becomes an expensive and time consuming replacement. This would be a much better option with a gear drive system. You already have shear bolts and keys as protective assurances against damage. Plus the Shute cables cross each other a become an abrasion point at the spindle/pulley.
Thank you for the video. I have the very same project going on.
It may have been the flaps I heard but it sounds like it needs lubricants. I trust your judgement. 👍
I would agree based on the video sound, in person it sounds very different. I attributed it to some small pebbles and sand in the housing. I’ve hooked it up to the X758 and run it (no snow to play with) and there were no unusual sounds.
I watched this and went out to inspect my blower and it came with a gearbox from teh dealer. JD must have made the change within the last couple years ?
Hi, have you ever tried those greaseable bearings with the new mounting/retaining plates that has a grease zerk in it? Apparently people claim that if you grease them every year, you will never have to replace those bearings on your snowblower again.... Bearing Retention plate PN: G52MSA, Bearing pn: ssa205-16. I'd love to see your video/review on that.
What lube did you put on the chain / did you lube it ?
Chain was pre-greased and I added a chain lube to it (I think it was Liquid Wrench Chain Lube).
Buy a gear box never have to deal with the chain and sprocket again
You are not wrong. I’m not sure what part of the video I addressed that in but basically this is a back up to a back up unit that I will run occasionally to have a little fun. $50 for the repairs in this video vs the $163 for a gear box. If it was a main unit it would have been an easy decision to go with a gear box.
Huge mistake to not upgrade to the sealed chain case while you have it apart
Out of curiosity why is it a mistake? Overall cost was was less than $50. It certainly would have been a different discussion if I would have needed to change additional bearings or sprockets. Meanwhile the gear case (AUC16953) is $163. I would certainly replace the gear case if all the drive components were worn out and I had no intentions of speeding up the blower through a smaller impeller and auger drive sprocket.