I def don’t think Chanel will let him do whatever he wants. He will still have to weave in that Coco vibe and to be fair….no one will have the crazy budgets for shows that Karl had. The die hard Chanelies won’t like it if he turns the brand on its head but I really would love to see him do that. Still think Chanel gives conservative old lady vibes. I was never drawn to the brand because all I can see is Nancy Regan wearing Chanel suits lol. I hope they both do well….its a step up for both of them and I root for everyone who gets their dream job.
Anyone who can’t see Matthieu at Chanel has zero vision. It’s about what the brand can be not what it is. In reference to couture, he’ll figure it out FINE, he has a WHOLE lab to back him…lol!!! I’m excited!
@@jeffreyrelf3160 I am a big fan of Matthieu and hope he succeeds, but I am a little cautious because of what happened to Daniel Lee at Burberry. Obviously it’s not apples to apples, Burberry was in trouble and a little lost in terms of direction whereas Chanel is quite stable. But still. Also, Virginie had the whole lab and look at what happened🙂 I do hope Matthieu does well and would love to see the direction he takes it.
I think that because women designers know that the pie is so tiny for them at the luxury houses, they tend to focus on getting the work done and proving themselves. It is not as easy for them to maintain a very public, superstar image like the gents. Judging by how few women they are at the creative director helms, in luxury I assume the pressure is just twice as much. Not to say they shouldn't try of course to be more in the public eye but I kinda get why they are not.
Am I the only one who appreciates Virginie’s work? Her position put Chanel in more youthful and cool girl perspective although it didn’t went dramatic like how Karl did. Also, the soundtrack playlist slaps too.
What ? Youthful and cool ? I agree, Karl was super dramatic and over the top, but IMO, Virginie was old, dull, I love commercial clothes, but she was just boring. Like MGC at Dior. When is she going away ?
You aren’t the only one. I appreciated her attempt to move the brand in a much more contemporary direction. People forget how stuffy actual Chanel clothes and accessories were in Karl’s era. VV brought the Chanel 19, the Chanel 22 and interesting knitwear that real women wear. Her attempts to modernize tweed fell a bit flat, but it’s tough for anyone to do. Only Thom Browne has managed to make tweed more avant garde. Her designs were not my personal favorite but neither were Karl’s tbh. I’m super excited to see what Blazy brings.
What is couture experience ? You're still making clothes. Couture is not necessarily the most radical fashion, it just be the most expensive, most exclusive piece and hopefully the fabrics, and shapes make it worth the price, and also you're supposed to be the one and only person in the world who has that outfit. If he can design a RTW collection, he can do a couture collection.
@@FashionRoadman I’m sure it is. And I’m not as knowledgeable as you or any other industry insider. But I do question if he and Chanel are a match. As you said, Chanel is all about flashy dream building. Or that’s what made it successful under Karl. And from what I’ve seen, Matthieu Blazy is more about intelllectual and subtle design (well apart from his time at Margiela). He was in Celine under Phoebe Philo and Calvin under Raf, which are quite different from Chanel. Would love to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks.
‘Carven’ is pronounced kahR-VEN (rhyming with ‘Ben’), almost like the given name Carmen, which was the first name of Carven’s begetter, Carmen de Tommaso. As per Wikipedia: “Carven, dont le nom vient de la contraction de CARmen et de BoyriVEn, (le nom de famille de la tante de Carmen de Tommaso).”
No…the Chanel bags are not holding value like they use to. My sister paid $8500 for a large classic flap in 2020 and I can buy that same bag on the re-sale for $6500. Their bag quality is so bad and they are doing lay offs in China. I think the lux industry is going through a correction.
Why would Margiela be considered a downgrade for some of the seasoned names mentioned in this stream? Someone please explain to a (somewhat) fashion novice who really likes Margiela's stuff:-/
Because even though Margiela is a very well respected brand, the scale and money the brand makes is tiny compared to the major fashion houses that make billions of dollars a year.
Virginie is the most boring thing to happen in fashion. It definitely wouldve been better if they left her in the background where she was and let the studio do the collections every season.
I’m lowkey just glad it’s not Hedi. Not every fashion house needs to undergo some transformation to a skinny silhouette. I think it can work. If there is anything I learned from Raf at Dior, it is possible for him to do couture - it is all team work. Demna also doing couture - it might be about what they want Chanel to become too as someone in comments said. Let’s also think about the change in brand perception they might be going for. 1.) Matthieu’s work appears to emphasizes the perception of craftsmanship and quality and I imagine, given current concerns for Chanel quality, this might a great rebrand exercise even on the surface. 2.) That investment in The Row might signal a shift in taste that Chanel might be tracking and maybe they want to bring a similar silhouette to the brand 3.) Fabric manipulation and artisanal experience alongside his playfulness will be fun to see what he does with their tweed. 4.) If his customer base moves with him, then you are expecting a more Karl Largerfield type of era I see more pros than cons. One last pro: it’s not Hedi Slimane 😂
@ljbx8 could you say more about these houses? Comparatively skinnier I do agree. The extreme (where Hedi) thrives is what I’m unsure of. I wish him the best tbh, I just didn’t think this brand needed to adopt that rockstar silhouette.
I hope he don't have Asap Rocky at Chanel like he did Bottega, especially if you want to change a brand to something new and exciting, it won't work and will flop similar how Raf Simons and him on the lower tier at Calvin Klein, Rocky style is not exciting and is the same thing for years, it suits him but nobody else on a bigger scale as a true trend setter from the industry or someone who simply set trends on the street
We do NOT need more women designers, we need more GOOD designers. I don't hear complaints about female designers designing men's clothes or gay designers designing for majority straight customers. The death of creativity is when we stop judging people based on their individual talents and start putting gender, race, sexuality as talents. They are not.
But that’s the problem, there are many great women designers who are being overlooked! Whether it’s menswear or womenswear women are not getting the top jobs. Same goes for race, no one is asking to be hired just because they are a woman or a person of colour, they just want there talents to be acknowledged!! Like this live stream said a lot of choices are being made due to popularity! I think Mathew Blazy is a great choice, couture is about craftsmanship, experimenting and the highest form of dressmaking which Blazy has shown he is capable of at Bottega Veneta. However the woman designer conversation is about them being overlooked.
@@angelicaellis Then the solution should be "best designer" and leave gender out of it, to prevent sexism. I also think many female designers don't actually want to be creative directors, just like many women and men don't want to be CEO's because pf the insane workload, life is not just about work, no matter how much you love your job. That's a pt I think is overlooked.
@@gobyfish1399umm what? There are women designers with business sense who want to be CDs. Just like with men. To your other point, who is deciding the criteria for “best” designer and what is that criteria? Decision makers at these brands (all old white European men from the upper class with traditionalist mindsets) tend to go with what has worked in the past because it’s an easier decision to make. And what has worked in the past? White, European, gay men preferably from the middle class or higher but room for working class if they’re quirky enough 😂. Where then is the room / headspace to consider whether a woman designer may fit the role? One of these decision makers would have to take a risk. And in this environment of hyper scale quarter over quarter, there is no room for risk. So women designers are at a disadvantage.
@@cap4life1 Then the focus should be on taking risks, and not judging designers by what worked before ( gay white men), the discussion should never be - it racism, its sexism, the worst word of all - "diversity" which is what the woke left uses to justify bigotry against white men ( gay in the fashion industry, straight throughout the Western world. We had a decade or more of wokeness, and that has destroyed so many of the gains of liberals ( not left wing ) like myself, which is why I hate the illiberal left wing so much. Let's keep the message clear - talent, and not biases against women, or non whites if they have the talent, not saying gay white men given the position is the problem. its the symptom not the cause.
I def don’t think Chanel will let him do whatever he wants. He will still have to weave in that Coco vibe and to be fair….no one will have the crazy budgets for shows that Karl had. The die hard Chanelies won’t like it if he turns the brand on its head but I really would love to see him do that. Still think Chanel gives conservative old lady vibes. I was never drawn to the brand because all I can see is Nancy Regan wearing Chanel suits lol. I hope they both do well….its a step up for both of them and I root for everyone who gets their dream job.
I love the word Chanelies.
Heidi at Chanel will look like Heidi everywhere else. Lol. Seriously. And Marc is so Early 2000’s. I’m good.
Anyone who can’t see Matthieu at Chanel has zero vision. It’s about what the brand can be not what it is. In reference to couture, he’ll figure it out FINE, he has a WHOLE lab to back him…lol!!! I’m excited!
@@jeffreyrelf3160 I am a big fan of Matthieu and hope he succeeds, but I am a little cautious because of what happened to Daniel Lee at Burberry. Obviously it’s not apples to apples, Burberry was in trouble and a little lost in terms of direction whereas Chanel is quite stable. But still. Also, Virginie had the whole lab and look at what happened🙂 I do hope Matthieu does well and would love to see the direction he takes it.
I think that because women designers know that the pie is so tiny for them at the luxury houses, they tend to focus on getting the work done and proving themselves. It is not as easy for them to maintain a very public, superstar image like the gents. Judging by how few women they are at the creative director helms, in luxury I assume the pressure is just twice as much. Not to say they shouldn't try of course to be more in the public eye but I kinda get why they are not.
Hopefully Mat can dust off the Grandmother vibe off the clothes.
Am I the only one who appreciates Virginie’s work? Her position put Chanel in more youthful and cool girl perspective although it didn’t went dramatic like how Karl did. Also, the soundtrack playlist slaps too.
You are definitely the only one
What ? Youthful and cool ? I agree, Karl was super dramatic and over the top, but IMO, Virginie was old, dull, I love commercial clothes, but she was just boring. Like MGC at Dior. When is she going away ?
@@gobyfish1399 I like MGC at Dior too. It was weird and whacky. I think both of VV and MGC made it so ugly that it became special for me.
You are the only one trust me
You aren’t the only one. I appreciated her attempt to move the brand in a much more contemporary direction. People forget how stuffy actual Chanel clothes and accessories were in Karl’s era. VV brought the Chanel 19, the Chanel 22 and interesting knitwear that real women wear. Her attempts to modernize tweed fell a bit flat, but it’s tough for anyone to do. Only Thom Browne has managed to make tweed more avant garde.
Her designs were not my personal favorite but neither were Karl’s tbh. I’m super excited to see what Blazy brings.
Is he going to have to do those old lady tweed jackets? Hmmm will be interesting.
He probably will to some extent but I’m sure he will find a way to modernise them.
My biggest worry is his lack of couture experience. Correct me if I’m wrong, but it’s 0%, isn’t it? He might end up like Kim Jones at Fendi.
I think he’s more than capable considering his resume
What is couture experience ? You're still making clothes. Couture is not necessarily the most radical fashion, it just be the most expensive, most exclusive piece and hopefully the fabrics, and shapes make it worth the price, and also you're supposed to be the one and only person in the world who has that outfit. If he can design a RTW collection, he can do a couture collection.
He was head of Margiela ARTISANAL!!! So, yes: Blazy knows couture!
@@avskardi I stand corrected then. Thanks. Let’s see how his dream building skills are.
@@FashionRoadman I’m sure it is. And I’m not as knowledgeable as you or any other industry insider. But I do question if he and Chanel are a match. As you said, Chanel is all about flashy dream building. Or that’s what made it successful under Karl. And from what I’ve seen, Matthieu Blazy is more about intelllectual and subtle design (well apart from his time at Margiela). He was in Celine under Phoebe Philo and Calvin under Raf, which are quite different from Chanel. Would love to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks.
‘Carven’ is pronounced kahR-VEN (rhyming with ‘Ben’), almost like the given name Carmen, which was the first name of Carven’s begetter, Carmen de Tommaso.
As per Wikipedia: “Carven, dont le nom vient de la contraction de CARmen et de BoyriVEn, (le nom de famille de la tante de Carmen de Tommaso).”
No…the Chanel bags are not holding value like they use to. My sister paid $8500 for a large classic flap in 2020 and I can buy that same bag on the re-sale for $6500. Their bag quality is so bad and they are doing lay offs in China. I think the lux industry is going through a correction.
Large never held its value ever. Its medium and below that does.
You are FAB ❤
New subscriber here
Thanks so much ❤️
He has access to the Chanel artisans at Le Main 19. This is so exciting for Chanel and honouring the heritage and codes of the house.
I believe no girl can say no to MOMCOCO ’s bags.
Matthieu wants to be a scientist in the lab! Clearly.
He’s not a gamble at all, he’s a genius fit!
Mathieu had the opportunity to be the Karl Lagerfeld of BV but now he will just be Karl Largerfeld 2.0 (at most) at Chanel.
Not if he does something different enough, Virginie was Karl 2.0. And she wasn't good.
@@gobyfish1399 oh virginie wasn't even 1.5 let's be VERY real
@@gobyfish1399 she was more like maria grazia chiuri 1.0 at Chanel.
Why would Margiela be considered a downgrade for some of the seasoned names mentioned in this stream? Someone please explain to a (somewhat) fashion novice who really likes Margiela's stuff:-/
Because even though Margiela is a very well respected brand, the scale and money the brand makes is tiny compared to the major fashion houses that make billions of dollars a year.
Virginie is the most boring thing to happen in fashion. It definitely wouldve been better if they left her in the background where she was and let the studio do the collections every season.
I’m lowkey just glad it’s not Hedi. Not every fashion house needs to undergo some transformation to a skinny silhouette.
I think it can work. If there is anything I learned from Raf at Dior, it is possible for him to do couture - it is all team work. Demna also doing couture - it might be about what they want Chanel to become too as someone in comments said.
Let’s also think about the change in brand perception they might be going for. 1.) Matthieu’s work appears to emphasizes the perception of craftsmanship and quality and I imagine, given current concerns for Chanel quality, this might a great rebrand exercise even on the surface. 2.) That investment in The Row might signal a shift in taste that Chanel might be tracking and maybe they want to bring a similar silhouette to the brand 3.) Fabric manipulation and artisanal experience alongside his playfulness will be fun to see what he does with their tweed. 4.) If his customer base moves with him, then you are expecting a more Karl Largerfield type of era
I see more pros than cons. One last pro: it’s not Hedi Slimane 😂
That last pro 😂😭 damn
actually more houses DO need to see a shift towards skinnier silhouettes
@ljbx8 could you say more about these houses? Comparatively skinnier I do agree. The extreme (where Hedi) thrives is what I’m unsure of. I wish him the best tbh, I just didn’t think this brand needed to adopt that rockstar silhouette.
1:14:36 kiko?
I hope he don't have Asap Rocky at Chanel like he did Bottega, especially if you want to change a brand to something new and exciting, it won't work and will flop similar how Raf Simons and him on the lower tier at Calvin Klein, Rocky style is not exciting and is the same thing for years, it suits him but nobody else on a bigger scale as a true trend setter from the industry or someone who simply set trends on the street
We do NOT need more women designers, we need more GOOD designers. I don't hear complaints about female designers designing men's clothes or gay designers designing for majority straight customers. The death of creativity is when we stop judging people based on their individual talents and start putting gender, race, sexuality as talents. They are not.
I agree with you. At the same time we actually have really GOOD female designers. Even better than some of the ‘popular’ designers we see
But that’s the problem, there are many great women designers who are being overlooked! Whether it’s menswear or womenswear women are not getting the top jobs. Same goes for race, no one is asking to be hired just because they are a woman or a person of colour, they just want there talents to be acknowledged!! Like this live stream said a lot of choices are being made due to popularity! I think Mathew Blazy is a great choice, couture is about craftsmanship, experimenting and the highest form of dressmaking which Blazy has shown he is capable of at Bottega Veneta. However the woman designer conversation is about them being overlooked.
@@angelicaellis Then the solution should be "best designer" and leave gender out of it, to prevent sexism. I also think many female designers don't actually want to be creative directors, just like many women and men don't want to be CEO's because pf the insane workload, life is not just about work, no matter how much you love your job. That's a pt I think is overlooked.
@@gobyfish1399umm what? There are women designers with business sense who want to be CDs. Just like with men.
To your other point, who is deciding the criteria for “best” designer and what is that criteria? Decision makers at these brands (all old white European men from the upper class with traditionalist mindsets) tend to go with what has worked in the past because it’s an easier decision to make. And what has worked in the past? White, European, gay men preferably from the middle class or higher but room for working class if they’re quirky enough 😂. Where then is the room / headspace to consider whether a woman designer may fit the role?
One of these decision makers would have to take a risk. And in this environment of hyper scale quarter over quarter, there is no room for risk. So women designers are at a disadvantage.
@@cap4life1 Then the focus should be on taking risks, and not judging designers by what worked before ( gay white men), the discussion should never be - it racism, its sexism, the worst word of all - "diversity" which is what the woke left uses to justify bigotry against white men ( gay in the fashion industry, straight throughout the Western world. We had a decade or more of wokeness, and that has destroyed so many of the gains of liberals ( not left wing ) like myself, which is why I hate the illiberal left wing so much. Let's keep the message clear - talent, and not biases against women, or non whites if they have the talent, not saying gay white men given the position is the problem. its the symptom not the cause.