Personally, I’m a 2700K guy for spaces that I want to be warm like the Living Room and Bedrooms. I reserve the 4000K for kitchens and bathrooms. For this reason, I like the brands that offer switch selectable color temperatures.
HERA....high quality LED stuff, i have had 15 years on HERA 3W HO surface mount units finally changing them out after around 130,000 hours, or 24/7 use in my kitchen cabinets. Mfg. rated at 50,000 hours...cost much more than the chinese stuff, but held up perfect, color and brightness. New versions are 1/3 of price from 15 years ago, and better drivers....HERA makes some great stuff...they use LED from the primo makers Lumiled, Osram etc
Always great video’s…highly recommend DMF 4000k for kitchen. DMF have high quality drivers. My remodel from 2016 not one of the 36 variants of DMF modules have failed in any way.
I learned about CRI the hard way. The “inexpensive” led spring actuated retro cans sold on Amazon are awful. Returned and purchased higher CRI from Home Depot and made a massive difference. Ironically, the incandescent bulb produces a CRI of 100. I don’t think any (or many) LED bulb on the market hits 100 CRI. Better buy the superior performing incandescent bulbs while still able!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. I have question , I want to learn more about electrical , Can I used 14 gauge wire and 12 gauge wire and 10 gauge wire for 240 Voltage ?
It's the amperage that determines how thick of wire is needed. The voltage doesn't matter, as long as the voltage is within spec. Home wiring is typically rated for 600V, so as long as you stay under that, you'll be fine. Secondary to amperage is the distance. A 450 foot run will likely need thicker wire to counteract the resistance and voltage drop that a 30 foot run just won't have. The Code provides guidance and direction on both of these things.
I'm still using 2700 only because I am sentimental to the old incandescent bulbs. Did not realize the pricing for can lights. Just put ten in my unfinished basement (the kids use one room as a rec room). Originally, there were three bare bulb fixtures on one switch. I rewired to have two switches. So I probably saved myself $1000 doing DIY.
Great video, much appreciated. I bought a set of thin LED lights to go in the ceiling. But the lights just have thin bare wires and didn't come with junction boxes. Is there a small code compliant junction box I could buy or can I just use the good old Wago connectors without a junction box?? (the connections would be near the light inside the draft proof box above the light in the space above the ceiling).
2:12 Why are electricians still using can based lighting when pancake lights exist? Is it just a matter of selling old stock before moving to modern tech or is there something else?
@@beachboardfan9544 if you're talking about the wafer lights, those are for mostly for running in remodels where you don't have an existing junction box that was part of the home. Those lights allow you to put it anywhere in the ceiling so long there is drywall. This house in the video was built with those can boxes and wafers would be not the best option. There are some that can do both I imagine.
1/10th the electricity with 25x the lifespan * (*when compared to incandescent bulbs that virtually no one uses anymore anyways). And when those LEDs go, they don't just go out, they can have a flickering period which tugs with your cheapskate genes of "it's not that bad flickers once every now and then" all the way to "screw it I'm getting migraines from it flickering!" and then my personal favorite replacing with something that even though it is the same color temp on the box it ends up looking different than all the other LEDs in the room and if you have the tiniest OCD in you you will need to replace every single one to be the same exact color and brightness.
I personally hate the amount of choices that are out there. I see a lot of wasted product do to the amount of brands that don’t look the same in its light spectrum and physical design. If they only offered white devices and 3500k color I would be beside myself.
Personally, I’m a 2700K guy for spaces that I want to be warm like the Living Room and Bedrooms. I reserve the 4000K for kitchens and bathrooms. For this reason, I like the brands that offer switch selectable color temperatures.
We buy adjustable color temp wafers and retrofits they're really nice by Juno 2700-5000k in 5 steps one product can match anything
Those are really common in the UK, it seems, and they're a good value.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
HERA....high quality LED stuff, i have had 15 years on HERA 3W HO surface mount units finally changing them out after around 130,000 hours, or 24/7 use in my kitchen cabinets. Mfg. rated at 50,000 hours...cost much more than the chinese stuff, but held up perfect, color and brightness. New versions are 1/3 of price from 15 years ago, and better drivers....HERA makes some great stuff...they use LED from the primo makers Lumiled, Osram etc
Always great video’s…highly recommend DMF 4000k for kitchen. DMF have high quality drivers. My remodel from 2016 not one of the 36 variants of DMF modules have failed in any way.
A guy I know hates Feit LED bulbs, refuses to use them.
I learned about CRI the hard way. The “inexpensive” led spring actuated retro cans sold on Amazon are awful. Returned and purchased higher CRI from Home Depot and made a massive difference. Ironically, the incandescent bulb produces a CRI of 100. I don’t think any (or many) LED bulb on the market hits 100 CRI. Better buy the superior performing incandescent bulbs while still able!
NIce white oak cabinets
What happened to the video RV conversion with the NOT lithium batteries?
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. I have question , I want to learn more about electrical , Can I used 14 gauge wire and 12 gauge wire and 10 gauge wire for 240 Voltage ?
It's the amperage that determines how thick of wire is needed. The voltage doesn't matter, as long as the voltage is within spec. Home wiring is typically rated for 600V, so as long as you stay under that, you'll be fine.
Secondary to amperage is the distance. A 450 foot run will likely need thicker wire to counteract the resistance and voltage drop that a 30 foot run just won't have. The Code provides guidance and direction on both of these things.
I'm still using 2700 only because I am sentimental to the old incandescent bulbs. Did not realize the pricing for can lights. Just put ten in my unfinished basement (the kids use one room as a rec room). Originally, there were three bare bulb fixtures on one switch. I rewired to have two switches. So I probably saved myself $1000 doing DIY.
Great video, much appreciated. I bought a set of thin LED lights to go in the ceiling. But the lights just have thin bare wires and didn't come with junction boxes. Is there a small code compliant junction box I could buy or can I just use the good old Wago connectors without a junction box?? (the connections would be near the light inside the draft proof box above the light in the space above the ceiling).
you need a box even if you use wagos
they do make a box for them though
look up wago box
2:12 Why are electricians still using can based lighting when pancake lights exist? Is it just a matter of selling old stock before moving to modern tech or is there something else?
Codes !
@@bahbarino4479 NEC codes?
No one put pancake boxes in new construction. Pancake boxes are for when you don't know where the joists are.
@@danielkofman4592 I'm talking pancake lights, no boxes
@@beachboardfan9544 if you're talking about the wafer lights, those are for mostly for running in remodels where you don't have an existing junction box that was part of the home. Those lights allow you to put it anywhere in the ceiling so long there is drywall.
This house in the video was built with those can boxes and wafers would be not the best option. There are some that can do both I imagine.
1/10th the electricity with 25x the lifespan * (*when compared to incandescent bulbs that virtually no one uses anymore anyways). And when those LEDs go, they don't just go out, they can have a flickering period which tugs with your cheapskate genes of "it's not that bad flickers once every now and then" all the way to "screw it I'm getting migraines from it flickering!" and then my personal favorite replacing with something that even though it is the same color temp on the box it ends up looking different than all the other LEDs in the room and if you have the tiniest OCD in you you will need to replace every single one to be the same exact color and brightness.
Have to disagree with you about 3000k being the best choice. Way to 'white' and glare producing. 2700k is the best for eye comfort.
I personally hate the amount of choices that are out there. I see a lot of wasted product do to the amount of brands that don’t look the same in its light spectrum and physical design. If they only offered white devices and 3500k color I would be beside myself.
I wish all cars were black, I'd be beside myself. I hate all those silly clown colors!
/sarc
Why do you use cans still????? I don’t understand????