Excellent video Justin and I liked the image too. A good overview of the whole end to end process that would benefit not only new large format shooters but more experienced users too.
At 10:10 if you had left the shutter open then the image would be overexposed. Like it would be really dark, but most likely still useable (I accidentally did about a 15-second exposure in broad daylight on 4x5 by leaving my shutter open and still got a very useable negative). That sheet of film did not get exposed at all; there is no information on it whatsoever.
Hi Justin, Thanks for the new video. Good inspiration for intimate landscape work. I use old Cibachrome 8x10 print developing canisters for my limited 8x10 work. They work like the ones you use and come up on eBay at good prices at times. I have wondered how to handle the agitation in these drums as most agitation instructions are for 1st minute continuous and 10 seconds every minute thereafter. I decided to deduct 10% development time for a constantly agitated drum agitation to tame contrast.
Thanks for your generous process review and nice video doc work of that !! I am motivated to dust off my view camera kit and practice up for the warmer spring days. Right now, the ice and snow here (Ontario) make digital the best choice for landscape (while on snow shoes.)
Glad you chose Satie for the end ... Not sure why you developed in those tubes ...they seem like scratching hazards plus doing things in the dark after loading it once seems backwards .... cheers
Shaking that tube is going to make the grain in the images shoot up and you're going to notice circles in the negs from where bubbles sit on them in the tube, since you do this in the dark, you could just tray develop which would be much better for the negs. I use the same film in 4x5 with a plethora of developers and I never get grain like that
I had the same thought when I first saw the image on screen. It looked grainy, but the beauty of using an 8x10 is there isn't a problem with grain. I agree with your assessment that it probably is a combination of noise and sand that gives that appearance.
I also use a motorized base and a tube meant for developing Paper, but I use it for film. I can get 4 sheets in there, and just reduce my dev time by 20% It's working out pretty good. Time to order for XTOL.
Love watching how other people work. Frustrating that you only got one pic out of three exposures but the one you got is very nice. I have used the BTZS tubes in the past. They are simple to use and it's nice to have that each negative can be developed separately. A couple of questions/thoughts: Why take the film out of the tubes for fixing? I've always done everything in the tube. Water stop bath then pour in the fix. Seem like it gives you more opportunity for scratching/damaging your film. Prior to fixing your film is more vulnerable. I've not used the TF-5 but I've been using TF-4 for 20 years. The fixing smell is not bad with it. Have you thought about trying pyro? Love the images I get with pyro. Fred tried to get me to change to a regular developer earlier this year but the results aren't as good a pyro developer. On those crazy bright days (on a beach surrounded by water) it's difficult not to get a little light leak. I leave my dark cloth in place to shield the holder from the light. Then pull and replace the dark slide underneath to protect from accidental flashing. Looking at the failed negative it looks like it didn't receive any exposure. If it wasn't for the little light spot in the upper right corner. Have you given any thought of going complete analog & doing contact printing at home? Thanks for the suggestion on your darkroom app. That may a show for you in the future. Photo apps to use: the good, bad and ugly. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
I have used Gordon Hutchings PMK for 20 years. He's got a great book called "the book of Pyro". Great read. I've recently switched over to PyroCat which everyone raves about. I'm just getting into it so I have no comments on it yet, but here is a great web site for info on Pyro and Pyrocat--www.pyrocat-hd.com. From that web site here is an article from View Camera magazine--www.viewcamera.com/pdf/2006/pyro.pdf (so, sad it's not around anymore) about pyro. They address the safety issue and basically say that if you use gloves and avoid skin contact you're fine. It's more of a problem if you are using the dry formula and mixing the formula yourself at home then you should use some type of industrial respirator. Photographers Formulary is also a great resource.
Thanks for the detailed reply! Really helpful. I was going crazy trying to move into large format photography! World needs more people like you! Thanks again!:-)
Justin, love this video, showing your work flow and the beautiful end product. Thanks for the info regarding printer settings, as I am using the same equipment (but 4 x 5 film).Would you use similar settings on your printer for color negative film? Do you recommend 600 dpi for a 4 x 5 negative as well. Enjoying your channel, keep up the good work!
@@justinlowery6017 Hey Justin, what is the maximum number of dpi you can scan at on one of those flatbeds and on a drum scan? Would it be better to scan at maximum dpi just to have that information if you ever need it
Well, I have lots of ideas for videos but the challenge is finding the quality time to make them. Finding a balance among family, work, and free time is the reason why I don't have as many videos published as I would like to make. Perhaps a Lowery-Santo collaboration might be in order? Take care, Tony
What happened to your original PS edit file prior to proofing? Did you flatten the layers and then proof it? Many would have saved the edit process as a "master" file and then resize for printing. I'm not criticizing you, just curious. Concerning the blank sheet of film, you said you left the shutter open, that couldn't have been what happened since there is no exposure on the negative! You either didn't cock the shutter, severely underexposed, or didn't remove the dark slide. Yeah, I've done those too. BTW, I have tested my iphone app's meter, and my digital camera spot meter, and both are 1 stop off (underexpose) as compared to my two calibrated Pentax 1 degree spot meters. Lastly, in my opinion, a darkroom silver print is the ultimate in class and beauty; I also print in ink from digital files, but my film images printed in the darkroom are just special. Thanks for the very good video, always good to see how someone else does it.
Could you lay out all the parts and number them, in another video. I have been going all over TH-cam trying to find exactly what is needed, and no other videos out there.
@@justinlowery6017Thanks Justin for the detailed reply! Really helpful. I hope to get my 8x10 soon, so excited. I will send you a photo maybe you can post it in your new video.
Hi Justin, great job and using Rodinal as an aesthetic choice is nice. I use ID11 developer. Why? I’m in a learning curve from 4x5 hp5 film to developer and 1/1 printing on both Resin coated and fiber based papers. During this workflow there is a lot of different parameters we can play with. I’ve decided to use a standard developer in a first time because I’m still learning enlarging technics. I’ve just installed a 4/5 enlarger (Devere 405) Once I will manage better the enlarger I’ll play with different developers. Cheers. Eric
Much better video, it is hands on. However, the results was also crapy. I think the tripod is not up to the camera (not only the weight, but the mass and volume). The focus can be lost easily. Also, the set up was difficult to handle, probably a different lens would have allowed you to focus better. These run of the mill low budget cameras may have light leaks easily. The 4x5 could be better in that sense. Please keep giving us the opportunity to criticize you from the privacy of our homes. Keep the good work.
loved the way your test sheet of film was in the darkslide backwards at 5.10
I enjoyed every minute of your work, i really like the end result.
Excellent video Justin and I liked the image too. A good overview of the whole end to end process that would benefit not only new large format shooters but more experienced users too.
Great movie, loved it, with a great result too.
Nice video Justin - I think the final image turned out beautifully. Great to see your work flow from start to finish too
Thanks. Looks great. Huge print sounds cool.
I really enjoyed this very thorough video. I like that you included the mistakes. As a newbie who has made every conceivable mistake it was helpful.
At 10:10 if you had left the shutter open then the image would be overexposed. Like it would be really dark, but most likely still useable (I accidentally did about a 15-second exposure in broad daylight on 4x5 by leaving my shutter open and still got a very useable negative). That sheet of film did not get exposed at all; there is no information on it whatsoever.
stunning !!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Justin, Thanks for the new video. Good inspiration for intimate landscape work. I use old Cibachrome 8x10 print developing canisters for my limited 8x10 work. They work like the ones you use and come up on eBay at good prices at times. I have wondered how to handle the agitation in these drums as most agitation instructions are for 1st minute continuous and 10 seconds every minute thereafter. I decided to deduct 10% development time for a constantly agitated drum agitation to tame contrast.
Thanks for your generous process review and nice video doc work of that !! I am motivated to dust off my view camera kit and practice up for the warmer spring days. Right now, the ice and snow here (Ontario) make digital the best choice for landscape (while on snow shoes.)
I need a large format scanner. I have been developing and hand printing and then scanning on my V500. Takes Forevvvvvvver.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing 👍
I’ve always wanted one just can’t seem to find one in my area.
Glad you chose Satie for the end ...
Not sure why you developed in those tubes ...they seem like scratching hazards plus doing things in the dark after loading it once seems backwards .... cheers
Nice! I wish you had shown how you focused? Did you get up on a step ladder or something?
Justin Lowery i see...thanks!
Great looking print. Thumbs up and subscribed
Shaking that tube is going to make the grain in the images shoot up and you're going to notice circles in the negs from where bubbles sit on them in the tube, since you do this in the dark, you could just tray develop which would be much better for the negs.
I use the same film in 4x5 with a plethora of developers and I never get grain like that
I had the same thought when I first saw the image on screen. It looked grainy, but the beauty of using an 8x10 is there isn't a problem with grain. I agree with your assessment that it probably is a combination of noise and sand that gives that appearance.
I also use a motorized base and a tube meant for developing Paper, but I use it for film. I can get 4 sheets in there, and just reduce my dev time by 20% It's working out pretty good. Time to order for XTOL.
Love watching how other people work. Frustrating that you only got one pic out of three exposures but the one you got is very nice. I have used the BTZS tubes in the past. They are simple to use and it's nice to have that each negative can be developed separately. A couple of questions/thoughts: Why take the film out of the tubes for fixing? I've always done everything in the tube. Water stop bath then pour in the fix. Seem like it gives you more opportunity for scratching/damaging your film. Prior to fixing your film is more vulnerable. I've not used the TF-5 but I've been using TF-4 for 20 years. The fixing smell is not bad with it. Have you thought about trying pyro? Love the images I get with pyro. Fred tried to get me to change to a regular developer earlier this year but the results aren't as good a pyro developer. On those crazy bright days (on a beach surrounded by water) it's difficult not to get a little light leak. I leave my dark cloth in place to shield the holder from the light. Then pull and replace the dark slide underneath to protect from accidental flashing. Looking at the failed negative it looks like it didn't receive any exposure. If it wasn't for the little light spot in the upper right corner. Have you given any thought of going complete analog & doing contact printing at home? Thanks for the suggestion on your darkroom app. That may a show for you in the future. Photo apps to use: the good, bad and ugly. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
I have used Gordon Hutchings PMK for 20 years. He's got a great book called "the book of Pyro". Great read. I've recently switched over to PyroCat which everyone raves about. I'm just getting into it so I have no comments on it yet, but here is a great web site for info on Pyro and Pyrocat--www.pyrocat-hd.com. From that web site here is an article from View Camera magazine--www.viewcamera.com/pdf/2006/pyro.pdf (so, sad it's not around anymore) about pyro. They address the safety issue and basically say that if you use gloves and avoid skin contact you're fine. It's more of a problem if you are using the dry formula and mixing the formula yourself at home then you should use some type of industrial respirator. Photographers Formulary is also a great resource.
Awesome video. Would have loved to see the color version too. It looked like color would have worked for the composition also.
Will be waiting for that video hopefully coming out soon. lol
8x10 photography looks like so much fun!
why havent i tried it before yet?
maybe i am just scared, but thanks for sharing!
I am not sure sure, but I think I am seeing a Kwala in the photo or an otter .. and must say it is awesome
Super video!!!
You’re working with a behemoth of an 8x10 camera and you don’t want to lug a proper light meter with you? Are you being ironic?
What is the cheapest used large 8x10 format I can get. You have any recommendations?
Thanks for the detailed reply! Really helpful. I was going crazy trying to move into large format photography! World needs more people like you! Thanks again!:-)
@@justinlowery6017 How do you know the lens will fit, if I order on ebay?
Or can you make a video on this?
Justin, love this video, showing your work flow and the beautiful end product. Thanks for the info regarding printer settings, as I am using the same equipment (but 4 x 5 film).Would you use similar settings on your printer for color negative film? Do you recommend 600 dpi for a 4 x 5 negative as well. Enjoying your channel, keep up the good work!
@@justinlowery6017 Hey Justin, what is the maximum number of dpi you can scan at on one of those flatbeds and on a drum scan? Would it be better to scan at maximum dpi just to have that information if you ever need it
Justin, very nice! Beautiful image. Tony
Well, I have lots of ideas for videos but the challenge is finding the quality time to make them. Finding a balance among family, work, and free time is the reason why I don't have as many videos published as I would like to make. Perhaps a Lowery-Santo collaboration might be in order? Take care, Tony
Huge light meter 😂👍 like you have pocket camera with you 😂😂 nice one
JUST DO A 8X10 contact print if you only want a small print.?
What happened to your original PS edit file prior to proofing? Did you flatten the layers and then proof it? Many would have saved the edit process as a "master" file and then resize for printing. I'm not criticizing you, just curious. Concerning the blank sheet of film, you said you left the shutter open, that couldn't have been what happened since there is no exposure on the negative! You either didn't cock the shutter, severely underexposed, or didn't remove the dark slide. Yeah, I've done those too. BTW, I have tested my iphone app's meter, and my digital camera spot meter, and both are 1 stop off (underexpose) as compared to my two calibrated Pentax 1 degree spot meters. Lastly, in my opinion, a darkroom silver print is the ultimate in class and beauty; I also print in ink from digital files, but my film images printed in the darkroom are just special. Thanks for the very good video, always good to see how someone else does it.
which light meter app do you use?
Thank you so much for answering my question Justin, I really enjoy and look forward to you video's every week !
Could you lay out all the parts and number them, in another video. I have been going all over TH-cam trying to find exactly what is needed, and no other videos out there.
@@justinlowery6017Thanks Justin for the detailed reply! Really helpful. I hope to get my 8x10 soon, so excited. I will send you a photo maybe you can post it in your new video.
Excuse the French...... But that's FKN awesome!!! Even though there was visible camera shake the print turned out stunning!!
You selected the wrong media type in your Print Studio Pro settings. It should be Photo Paper Pro Luster not Photo Paper Plus Semi-gloss.
I liked it much better before the cropping
Great photo but you say that cheep film is good but it looks so grainy, that would be allot of grain for even a 35mm
Rodinal developer is grainy and it requires a good control of the temperature.
Hi Justin, great job and using Rodinal as an aesthetic choice is nice. I use ID11 developer. Why? I’m in a learning curve from 4x5 hp5 film to developer and 1/1 printing on both Resin coated and fiber based papers. During this workflow there is a lot of different parameters we can play with. I’ve decided to use a standard developer in a first time because I’m still learning enlarging technics. I’ve just installed a 4/5 enlarger (Devere 405)
Once I will manage better the enlarger I’ll play with different developers. Cheers. Eric
Much better video, it is hands on. However, the results was also crapy. I think the tripod is not up to the camera (not only the weight, but the mass and volume). The focus can be lost easily. Also, the set up was difficult to handle, probably a different lens would have allowed you to focus better. These run of the mill low budget cameras may have light leaks easily. The 4x5 could be better in that sense. Please keep giving us the opportunity to criticize you from the privacy of our homes. Keep the good work.
Sorry, I guess that is part of being. a public figure. Let me check to see if I have a camera to spare, or a tripod.
👌
Does anyone else see a mountain goat with curly horns?
Enjoyed your video very much. Regarding your Pentax Spotmeter, you can get it fixed and calibrated: www.lg4mat.net/
Seriously? You have such important camera and you use an app?!