Dear Glenmore Lodge first of all thank you for the video. I would like to know how to escape the belay in a rescue situation ??? if the belay device and the anchors master point is in your rope loop (figure of eight) is it possible to untie yourself ?
personally, I use a petzl reverso, or ATC guide or similar, means I can drink etc while belaying second. also safer. Then the second clips in with a tail to the belay. and we go from there. On long alpine climbs, this is pretty much the only way, due to fatigue etc.
Good god "climbers" on TH-cam are a nitpicking bunch of ungrateful doom-mongers! So many people saying she back-clipped (she didn't), to belay directly off the anchors (fine for bolted anchors in sport but totally different in trad), to redirect through the anchors (again, fine if your anchors are bolts), that his belay technique is bad because he switches hands (wtf?) or because it's counterintuitive to lock off by taking the brake hand upwards (it's not if you think of the belay plate as a friction device and the brake hand goes opposite the climber to lock off). Jesus. If you climb sport in the US and are making comments about UK trad technique with zero experience of UK trad then at least show some respect and humility about your ignorance. You just might learn something!
I have no trad climbing experience, but I'd really like to understand the differences. Derek has explained why he didn't belay off the anchor directly in another comment above. Can you explain the other comments, if you don't mind please? Thanks!
The climbing community is the most nit-picky, bitchiest group ever. Just enjoy the film. If you watch films from other communities like paddlers, surfers or base-jumpers they just get a buzz from the films and share the experience with the person taking part.
Wait a second... when did you switch the position of your reverso from when she was climbing as a second and now to lead? (6:01 to 6:15) I have to assume that you did it while she was there and cut that off the video. Anyways, she wasn't at any point as far as i have seen tied into the anchor when you did that operation. I also agree with the rest that you should have used the autoblock function to belay a second. My personal opinion is that if you do an instructional, make it complete and cover small details, you are putting inexperienced people on the line doing half way taught things. That is irresponsible.
Nice video, I realize this is just for instruction but every time they cut to the wide angle shot and show that he is all of 15ft above her I have a tough time not laughing. That is one heck of a short pitch.
I wonder why the instructor is not using his belay device in guide mode? I realize there are times when we do not manage to get a good high master point and choose to belay from the harness, but in the situation shown in the video, there seems to be no such problem. It becomes very strenuous to belay, plus you get none of the benefits of an assisted belay. On top of that, building your entire anchor from the rope has a lot of drawbacks. No way of block leading, lots of rope wasted, lots of slack to take up before you can start to climb, and real trouble if there should be an accident. Again, using the rope is sometimes required, but certainly not your go-to solution in most cases. The way I would teach this: always strive for a high master point, build using slings, and belay in guide mode.
Crazy shit mate. I dont really like the standards you are using due to they are some kind of weird, but seems to work. Like more a good anchor management with plate and everything tied to the anchor ;-)
Never been one to nit pick, but I have watched three of this guys videos, and he really needs to take some belay classes, as some of the setups he is doing can get him and his climber into a lot of trouble....nuff said!
I was wondering too. There have always been differences between countries/continents and eras eg Climbing with double ropes, using the tie in loop instead of the belay loop. All are valid. There are some good points in this video and nothing untoward. Glenmore Lodge has always had a world class reputation as a training facility.
Scary to think thousands of people watch these videos and go out and climb for the first time. I could think of a hundred different ways to build an anchor that are safer and more efficient lol is this a joke or something?
Really good instructional video. Wish I'd have seen this a couple of years ago when I started doing multipitch climbs.
Thank you!
The first thing at the anchor to protect themselves is the follower (Annie) clips into the anchor at the shelf.
Dear Glenmore Lodge
first of all thank you for the video. I would like to know how to escape the belay in a rescue situation ??? if the belay device and the anchors master point is in your rope loop (figure of eight) is it possible to untie yourself ?
Personally I wouldn't trust this source to go over escaping a belay properly. There are numerous problems with this video in terms of safety.
Here's a belay escape video we made. th-cam.com/video/pPfohgg_j88/w-d-xo.html
where was this? huntleys?
personally, I use a petzl reverso, or ATC guide or similar, means I can drink etc while belaying second. also safer. Then the second clips in with a tail to the belay. and we go from there. On long alpine climbs, this is pretty much the only way, due to fatigue etc.
Good god "climbers" on TH-cam are a nitpicking bunch of ungrateful doom-mongers! So many people saying she back-clipped (she didn't), to belay directly off the anchors (fine for bolted anchors in sport but totally different in trad), to redirect through the anchors (again, fine if your anchors are bolts), that his belay technique is bad because he switches hands (wtf?) or because it's counterintuitive to lock off by taking the brake hand upwards (it's not if you think of the belay plate as a friction device and the brake hand goes opposite the climber to lock off). Jesus.
If you climb sport in the US and are making comments about UK trad technique with zero experience of UK trad then at least show some respect and humility about your ignorance. You just might learn something!
I have no trad climbing experience, but I'd really like to understand the differences. Derek has explained why he didn't belay off the anchor directly in another comment above. Can you explain the other comments, if you don't mind please? Thanks!
So where's your respect and humility, then? Why aren't you open to learning something?
The climbing community is the most nit-picky, bitchiest group ever. Just enjoy the film. If you watch films from other communities like paddlers, surfers or base-jumpers they just get a buzz from the films and share the experience with the person taking part.
That thing looks like it would be a nightmare to deal with in a self rescue situation.....
In fact I could see certain situations where it's basically impossible to escape. Maybe I'm missing something though.
@@rushthezeppelin yes you're missing something
Wait a second... when did you switch the position of your reverso from when she was climbing as a second and now to lead? (6:01 to 6:15) I have to assume that you did it while she was there and cut that off the video. Anyways, she wasn't at any point as far as i have seen tied into the anchor when you did that operation.
I also agree with the rest that you should have used the autoblock function to belay a second.
My personal opinion is that if you do an instructional, make it complete and cover small details, you are putting inexperienced people on the line doing half way taught things. That is irresponsible.
figure 8 on a bight on brake strand of rope clipped with a locker to his knot loop at 4:15
Nice video, I realize this is just for instruction but every time they cut to the wide angle shot and show that he is all of 15ft above her I have a tough time not laughing. That is one heck of a short pitch.
Thanks. Agreed it is a short pitch and I am sure there was no rope drag nor did the route get too hard for the film star.
Shaun Bryan It would be a whole "route" at crags like Slipstones and Scugdale ha ha.
I wonder why the instructor is not using his belay device in guide mode? I realize there are times when we do not manage to get a good high master point and choose to belay from the harness, but in the situation shown in the video, there seems to be no such problem. It becomes very strenuous to belay, plus you get none of the benefits of an assisted belay. On top of that, building your entire anchor from the rope has a lot of drawbacks. No way of block leading, lots of rope wasted, lots of slack to take up before you can start to climb, and real trouble if there should be an accident. Again, using the rope is sometimes required, but certainly not your go-to solution in most cases. The way I would teach this: always strive for a high master point, build using slings, and belay in guide mode.
Crazy shit mate. I dont really like the standards you are using due to they are some kind of weird, but seems to work.
Like more a good anchor management with plate and everything tied to the anchor ;-)
using the atc this way looks dangerous to me..
Never been one to nit pick, but I have watched three of this guys videos, and he really needs to take some belay classes, as some of the setups he is doing can get him and his climber into a lot of trouble....nuff said!
kayakerodie what's your experience of UK multipitch trad climbing? What specific issues do you have with this video?
I was wondering too. There have always been differences between countries/continents and eras eg Climbing with double ropes, using the tie in loop instead of the belay loop. All are valid. There are some good points in this video and nothing untoward. Glenmore Lodge has always had a world class reputation as a training facility.
Your first of THREE anchors should be an active piece (Camelot) on the right side.
Why three? He has 2 bomber pieces, that is perfectly good. It could be one bomber if it was a bomber BFR or a BFT.
Scary to think thousands of people watch these videos and go out and climb for the first time. I could think of a hundred different ways to build an anchor that are safer and more efficient lol is this a joke or something?
Clipped wrong way!
great video until Annie back clips the first draw... It's ok Annie, we have all done it before. You just did it for an instructional video.
It just looks like that while she is below the clip it twists back around as she climbs above it.
Really? Oh dear look closely at 6:26 then you'll realise your comment is erroneous
Video was fine, the female climber starts the second pitch by attaching her first runner and then back clips the rope :-(
Na, look closely (see comments above)
No
Haha 100% backclipped lol you guys have probably been watching to many of this guy's videos and you do everything the wrong way
Back clipped...
? No, you're confused.
she moved right , so there was no back clip
No