Buckle up ladies and gents... here is the full list and a little of what vice says about each. 1. VMC- Ice Yellow- Warm highlight 2. VGC- Glacier Blue- Cold highlight 3. VMC- Turquoise- Rich tone, oxidisation 4. VMC- Blue-Green- Rich tone, oxidisation 5. VMC- Pale Sand- Off white, used in early model/ terrain drybrush 6. VMC- Ivory- Off white, used in early model/ terrain drybrush 7. VMC- Dark Sea Blue- blue/black/grey, base of NMM steel 8. VGC- Warm Grey- Great reset colour 9. VMA- Hull Red- Warm shadow, brown tone shadow, makes black interesting 10. VMA- Cement grey- Concrete, stone, masonry 11. VMA- Randome Tan 71.074- Yellow/white tone 12. VMA- White Grey- Concrete, stone, masonry 13. VMA- IDF Sinai Grey- Concrete, stone, masonry 14. VMA- Light Rust- Base for yellow and warm zenithal 15. VGA- Cold Grey- Mid tone on zenithal prime 16. GW- Agrax earthshade 17. GW- Nuln Oil 18. GW- Seraphim Sepia 19. GW- Reikland Fleshshade- Over an ivory zenithal is Caucasian flesh in two layers 20. GW- Bugmans Glow- Tanned flesh base 21. GW- Abaddon Black- Rim bases 22. GW- Blood for the Blood God 23. GW- Nihlik Oxide 24. GWC- Aggaros Dunes- Weathering, staining 25. GWC- Flesh Hound Orange- Go to orange, fire etc. 26. GWC- Iyanden Yellow- Go to yellow, fire etc. 27. GWC- Akhelion Green- Blue not green, wonderful tone 28. GWC- Fyreslayer flesh- Thin filter over flesh base 29. PA- Bright Ivory- Off white, white/grey clothing 30. PA- Olive Flesh- Off white, white/grey clothing 31. PA- Bright Warm Grey- Off white, white/grey clothing 32. PA- Bold Pyrrote Red- Bright, go to red 33. PA- Mahogany- Warm shadows 34. PA- Yellow Ochre- Deep yellow 35. PA- Black Brown- Belts, leathers 36. WC- Flesh 5- Shadow for flesh, nice unique tone 37. WC- Ochre 1- high highlight/ spot highlight for flesh 38. WC- Turquoise all (5 paints)- great range of tones 39. WC- Purple all (5 paints)- pinks, great range of tones 40. WC- Violet 3+5- great mid violets 41. WC- Glaze paints (6)- Ready to go glazes 42. WC- Fluro paints (4)- Plasma, warpstone 43. 75F- Bloodfest Crimson- Rich Crimson 44. 75F- Harvester Flesh- Pinky flesh, used as a highlight 45. 75F- Arbuckles Brown- Shadow flesh, alien skin, leather 46. 75F- Huldra Blue- Blue shadow 47. 75F- Amarth Blue- Blue Highlight 48. 75F- Despair Green- Jade’ish green 49. 75FX- Acid Pink- keep that pink a popping 50. 75- Mojave white- Another warm white 51. 75- Black Leather- Shadows on flesh, red, orange 52. 75- African Shadow- Shadows on flesh, red, orange 53. 75- Basic Flesh- often Caucasian mid tone 54. 75- Kalahari Orange- Bright but not fire orange, good glaze on bone, pumpkins 55. 75- Adriatic Blue- Super bright blue highlight 56. 75- Deep Blue- Deep blue shade 57. DR- White 58. DR- Payne’s Grey- Use these 3 in every project- orgasmic religious experience 59. DR- Burnt Umber (all other FW inks have uses) 60. SW- Rubber- pants, belts, under suits (shade with payne’s, highlight with glacier blue) 61. SW- Old Rust- red 62. SW- Brown Rust- brown 63. VMET- Steel 64. VMET- Silver 65. VMET- Copper- Except no substitute, the whole line is great but these are a good start. 66. VMET- Gold Total if sticking to just listed 83 paints… remember this list is just vince’s go to. There are many (the man needs an intervention) more paints and he will use them all. Thank you so much Vince, I think this will help a lot of people!
Lardidar - Lewis Moorby Thank you for transcribing this, you saved me a ton of time since I stupidly didn’t take notes while watching. Great video Vince!
For me the list of colors isn't nearly as useful as the reasonings for why you like each color, really nice to hear how you think about the different paints!
@@VinceVenturella yes please the longer the better. Your chill vids make for uninterrupted streches of painting our own miniatures while learning and thinking of what next to do learn and try out. Best format out of the many painting vids on youtube to put on while I'm painting.
Thank you! Especially WHY you love a certain paint. It was really helpful for me. Not only a buying guide, but more important a break down how to use a color and what effect to achieve.
Could this please be a yearly episode? 😁 It'd be cool to see an updated version including golden acrylics, heavy body acrylics and the lines that have come out since. Plus the Vincey V gold and copper home brew got all the contrast types aswell now a days. Would be great to see how you think they stack up.
After I watched Vince's video on the Vallejo Metals I bought a pair just to see how I liked them-- y'all Vince is right. Every color I've used has been the cat's meow. I bought a few more to use on my last project, copper in particular was *chef kiss*. I think I'll just jot down here in my notebook "buy the whole damn line".
Just used them on my first airbrushed models (Custodes) using Vince's Speed Gold recipe. Pretty sure I messed up a few coats, put it on too thick, sprayed over the recess shades, and the transitions could have been cleaner ... And it STILL looks smooth and coated even! Love VMC so far!
Vincent, this is the video I've been looking for since I started painting 10 years ago! :) Thank you for sharing it. Several of your go to choices match the ones I already use, but I will surely give it a try to the ones you mentioned I haven't tried yet.
I really wish I had known about Vallejo when I first started painting, and built up a pretty big collection of citadel. The last paint brand guide video you did was an eye opener for me though and helped a lot
Dw the pigments are quite similar, both designed for minis so you picked fine. You can always start switching over when you finished a pot or convert is really easy and you waste very little paint
*sees video title* *opens new text document* Ok, let's do this! :D Thanks for the video, this will hopefully save you lots of time during your Hobby Q&A shows! Will be making up a shopping list for those that I don't have. Also love seeing photos of your workspace. Moving mine to a corner soon so I'll be able to make better use of wall space :P
Thanks Vince, this was very helpful. Especially, showing how you store your paints. Also, Michaels doesn't carry the Paynes Grey in Indy area so I just ordered off Amazon like you suggested. This morning, six Arbuckle boys, sons and nephews are sitting around the kitchen table watching episode 200 and painting up a AOS storm.
Love the VMC line since you turned me on to them. I got tired of having to mix up warm golds from the green gold base using copper so I experimented and found Manuscript Pen Company Calligraphy Ink Gold is a very warm gold color with properties very similar - if not exactly - to that of VMC. I haven’t airbrushed it yet, but using extensively with a paint brush leads me to believe it should also behave similarly through an airbrush.
Vince I think we should start a paint addiction group. Your wall might look different because of how we store our paint but I think I found someone who might have more paint than I do.
@@VinceVenturella I can help you by taking your additional paints off your hands so you have time and space to address your affliction. I am in no way trying to feed an all consuming paint addiction by stea- er, re-distributing the paint racks of others. *itches arm*
Love this video, watched the one you did about paints few years before this one. Made me remove and add to my shopping /watch list, thanks so much for the videos.
Everyone! Please support this series. Sooo good! If you don't learn something from each episode your not trying to get better. Absolutely has had an impact on the quality of my painting!
As always, great vid Vince. A follow-up question: You mentioned that between Warcoulrs and Scale75, you prefer Scale at this point - is there a specific reason or is that more to do with the availability of Scale75 in the US?
I envy your paint stands, I just don't have the free wall space, because of black mold and a constant year long war against it. At the same time I worry now because I think I may actually have more paints than this. Even after giving away my old Vallejo Game colour complete set. Kind of getting to the point where I have to move out to allow my paint collection to grow any further.
That's rough, my best advice is you could always use the stand-alone paint racks (I have more than what I show here), those can just sit on a desk and hold about 60-90 paints in a shelf like bleacher rack.
@@VinceVenturella Out of desk space as well. Currently I store paint by brand/type in plastic multi drawed filing cabinet on wheels. The plastic is transparent so you can see which brand/type is in each draw. The draws are just high enough to take most paint bottle types and if you want to do a project with many from a certain brand/type you can just pull a whole drawer out.
Just bought a lot of these! Been looking for paints to try and this is great rather than buying a huge set of stuff I don't know how to use. Now to get a good paint rack
Vince I must argue I don't consider it a problem at all. How could you give us the breadth of insight about these paints unless you tried them all. By trying them all you find the same thing that anyone who has said affliction does certain paints kind of stick to you for whatever reason; whether it be blending, pigment, etc. If it is a problem and am I wrong (lord knows I am often) thank you for your affliction and I am honored to share it.
Dude this is awesome. On every other video you do you always say "this is one of my favorite paints". Glancing through Lardidar's summar, though, I don't see Inktense Wood listed and when you did that "how to paint faux wood video" you were so excited to talk about its name, lol. I've been wanting this video for a while and just haven't remembered to ask. I'm glad I wasn't the only one.
Finally a paint video that isn't going to cost me money! I already have, I think, every paint you mentioned with the exception of some of the Vallejo Model Color. Finding the individual colors within that range is a pain because it's so vast that I've mostly quit trying. As I happen across certain colors I'll pick them up, though.
Really appreciate your recommendations due to the huge variations in quality and expense of trying out everything. I still favor the msp line due to cost and availability for core colors although i've switched to AV metallics, GSW fluoros and GW contrasts. The line(like all?) is pretty hit and miss. Just sampled 21 colors on a pallette and only consider 13 keepers. The clears are definitely the best in the line and I think you should try them if you haven't already.
Hey Vince. First, i want to thank you, as your videos, specially the hobby cheating series, were the main reason i got back to this hobby. They are so addictive. So much that they are now the main reason i don't paint, because i rather watch the next one than actually getting work done. At least untill now. As i finally watched all of them (yeah, all of them) i guess i don't have any more excuses. I have two questions that are not adressed in any of your hobby cheating videos, at least directly, so i'd love if you could give me an answer, or even consider it as a topic for one of your cheating videos if you think the topic is interesting enough. First, the 3 different paints for pure white. Sometimes you use the FW ink, sometimes you use a normal white (vallejo,warcolour,scale... whatever), and sometimes you use the Full body Acrylic titanium white. Even though you usually explain why you pick one or another in that particular paintjob, i'm sure there is more to it, and it would be nice to have a guide on how and when to choose the correct white for our own projects. Second, a very different kind of question. When i spend a bunch of hours painting, pretty often i have back and/or neck pain the next day. I'm sure you had this problem at some point, specially with long painting sessions, and maybe you could give us some pointers to have a good posture and avoid bad habits to prevent this kind of issues. Thank you for your work and passion, and keep them coming.
Awesome and glad to hear the videos are helpful. So let me walk through both answers in simple form, but there are good videos for both. 1) I do use a lot of different white paints, and for very specific purposes. In simplest form. I use traditional white paint almost as medium when I want coverage, I use HBA white as pigment intensity and for blending and I use white ink for sharper lines and transparency. Again, it's definitely something that requires a whole video. 2) I don't really have the back pain issue, but that is all on the chair. I used to because I had a terrible chair. THe best advice I can give you is to invest heavily and spend a few hundred dollars on a good chair with excellent back support and lower lumbar support. It needs to be high enough that your feet sit flat on the ground. You will be amazed the difference.
I'm betting that Vallejo Game Color foul green is similar to Vallejo Model Color turquoise and blue green. I don't know his for sure, but I find foul green pretty impressive in terms of coverage and I use it for oxidation.
Hi Vince! Thanks for the pointers. Here's a pot for you to try, in the vein of dark purples used for shadows (in case you haven't already): Reaper's Burgundy. I found it just perfect when I painted some Black Plague zombies, and it would work for a lot of other minis if it wasn't in my friend's paints collection, and kind of hard to get here in France; But I here they're easier to get in the US, so I hope you get a chance! Really really perfectly de-saturated for my taste. (It's harder to get a good shadow purple than it seems to the novice painter I am.) I find your paint racks both inspiring (a painter's hobby area should be filled with beautiful things for inspiration and day-dreaming, and I find colors do that to me) and awe-inspiring, as I wouldn't know which paint to go for :-)) but then I guess you know eacj and every pot by the tip of your brush, so of course it can't make you feel that... Can it? ;-)
Liz Beckley loves Burgundy Wine as the shadow for skin tones. Very much agree that it works exceptionally well in that application. I also coincidentally used it on Zombicide: Black Plague
The pigmentation and colour strength of that VMC Turquoise are insanely good. Mixing Dark Sea Blue into other paints is also a great way to reproduce the bluish look of real shadows on a clear day. I'm thinking of trying Pro Acryl after seeing you use them so much, but shipping might be pricey for me in Australia. Do you still need to order directly them from Creature Caster?
Ought the vallejo metal color paints as per your recommendation. I finally got them in the mail after being hyped all week. I found them extremely difficult to work with a brush. Super watery and so foamy no matter how much I shake them. Bottle is super messy and the gold looks very greenish. The shine looks nice on the pallete but they cover poorly and don't look that way on the model. Would very much appreciate tips on these or even better video
Sure, happy to help. So first, you may want to drop a mixing ball or something similar in there to get it properly mixed, because they should cover really strongly, so if they aren't it could be a bad/old bottle or not properly mixed. Now, as to the watery, as you often see me do in videos when I use these, you do not go straight from palette to model. You touch your synthetic brush into the paint, you touch your brush to a paper towel to wick off the excess liquid, and then you apply the paint. You need to wick out the excess liquid just like as if you were working with a glaze. Now, as to the gold, it's very green intentionally as it's meant to be the far end and mixed with the copper to make actual mid tone gold (the copper is very red, so red + green gives you all sorts of mid-tones). I really wish they would be more clear on that, but I have several videos in the playlist on my favorite golds and how I make them.
I really enjoy seeing what other painters like. I'm a big fan of the VMC Buff/Pale Sand/Ivory grouping - they are so versatile. I also find myself pulling down VGC Beasty Brown and Charred Brown a lot. I tried the Metal Colors based on your recommendations - they are great, but took me a bit to get used to how thin they are. I wish the gold wasn't so green though. It seems more like aged brass than gold.
Yeah, the thinness takes adjusting, you have to wick each brush load off just like a glaze. The secret with the gold is it's intentionally green to be super cold. The copper is very red to be max warm, you actually need to mix the two often to get to a good rich gold, I like a 3-1 mix of gold to copper. That's how I get all my golds.
I used the Vallejo Model Air Metalics and Scale 75 Metalics, if the Vallejo acrylic metal line makes those look lumpy looks like I will be picking some up the next time I hit the flgs.
@@DocEonChannel Totally agree. I love P3's Eldritch (turquoise/verdigris) colour but oh god the pot is awful. It's like a pre-school paint pot. I didn't think any pots could be worse than GW's but I was wrong.
@@DocEonChannel They do keep the paint more-or-less indefinitely, though. They're the same pots as the 1980's/1990's GW pots, of which I have a fair few and all are still fine (except my pot of Tin Bitz, where the lid cracked). Vallejo's bottles are decent, but I've had a couple of bottles of Game Colour (Gory Red and Dark Green) congeal in the pot (1 of which was unopened).
21:46 "Shade it with paynes grey and highlight it with a little ice blue and there ya go bing bang boom we've got ourselves a rock n'roll hoochie-coo" If you are really a fan of vince venturella then name 3 of his albums! ;)
Love this kind of thing. I have way too many paints too. Recently I picked up some monument/creature caster paints. Woooooowwwwwwwwwwww they’re nice. They’re a bit like reaper, which is a very good thing in my book!
My favourite part of this video was the missing wall of affiliate links that every other TH-camr seems to add to their "favourite stuff" videos :) Just the information, just for reference, not trying to sell us anything.
Since you paint so often and do whole armies, I am curious which paints you (at least semi-regularly) need to buy new pots for? I am a slow painter and haven't emptied a bottle of paints since I returned to the hobby 3 years ago. I first one that I expect to replace is titanium white ink from any of the artist lines.
@@VinceVenturella You paint any change you get and if even you don't empty bottles, non of us will either! I do remember emptying GW bottles when I painted whole armies 20 years ago. Easier to do with GW paints because of the being 12ml, partly drying out, no wet palet so applying them too thickly probably.
I still have some space in my paint racks and I've been wondering for a few weeks now what single paints you recommend from the main lines available.... and, well... here it is!
Hi Vince, for some reason metal color silver is really hard to get in the UK right now. The aluminium and white aluminium look quite similar to silver online - is there much difference on the model? If not I’ll just grab one of those instead. Chrome also looks similar but I think I remember you saying you didn’t like the chrome so much
Hi Vince, love your videos and advice on the hobby. Just recently got back into painting and have been building up my collection with a mix of mainly Vallejo metal colours, warcolours and scale 75. All of these have provided good results. But I'm always looking for new additions and have seen Kimera colours. Just wondered if you have used them and what you thought. Maybe an idea for a future review. Be interested to see how they perform, before investing around £70. Anyway keep the videos coming!!!
I have (almost) painted with all your colors mentioned in the vid and I have to say that many brands and shades are easily replaceable but Vallejo`s METAL COLORS are 110% in a league of its own! It is a shame that so many guys trying new brands and lines (e.g. eveybody bought some GW`s Contrast Paints in no time...) but still stick to old habbits/metal colors that are awful. I hope that your video turn these guys to the shiney side of life... :-) Keep up the good work!
Wow Vince I guessed you were a paint guy but geez! That vast array paints puts my collection to shame especially with the enviable racks; I like a nice rack as much as the next person. Thanks for the tips on bugman glow and flesh 5, i'll need to re watch the video on warcolours as the idea of a gel based paint sounds challenging. Now I need to go shopping for some pro acryl also! Cheers.
Thanks for another interesting video Vince. Your personal commentary for each paintline was very appreciated. No surprises for anyone who has followed your Hobby Cheating series! Old ogre boy probably has all these on him. Out of interest, have you tried the Kimera Colours paintline? I got them a month ago and have loved playing with them, but they necessitated a certain learning curve.
Vince Hey Vince! I'm new to the hobby, I'm looking to buy some basic colors to start paint. I will buy some Vallejo Model Colors, but I don't know with which color to start, I'm thinking the 3 primary, 3 secondary, Ivory, Flesh, black, white, gold, silver and a wash or 2. My questions is about primary and secondary tone, there are a lot of reds, yellows and blues in the Vallejo catalogue, which ones are the better to start with?
So those are a fine place to start (I would also grab like 3-4 off colors that you just think look cool), but in the Vallejo Model Range, there are generally some colors called "Flat Red" or "Flat/Medium Blue" and so on, those are generally good places to start.
Abaddon black?! i'm surprised Vince. I hate Abaddon black. it dries on my brush the moment I lift it off the palette. having a wet palette makes it last a little longer but it beads up and dries on my detail brushes. I find army painter black and game colour black a ton better
I was surprised to not see any reference to the ghost tints in your list. You used to constantly grab Minitaire Ghost Tints, especially the PLasma Fluid.
Yeah, they have fallen out of the rotation basically. I just prefer some other inks (namely the daler rowneys) for the same purpose I used to use those.
I recently discarded/gave away unused paints, because I don't want to spend time on maintaining all the pots, bottles, tubes, etc. anymore. I kept a couple of paints, and replaced colours I ran out off. other than that: every colour I need, I mix and record it in my paint journal. speaking of: how do you keep your paints maintained?
I mean, I don't do anything special with them. They sit in those racks exactly as you see them. When I get them out to use them, I basically just give them a shake with the paint mixer and good to go. No other work really necessary. :)
Other than the daler Rowney inks mentioned what other inks would you advise for primary colours etc? Also how would you approach grey knights via airbrush? Small amount of blue ink mixed into metallics or a glaze?
Do you add FW white to VMC Silver to highlight silver metal? Just curious because I finally ordered the FW holy trinity (which I can't wait to use through my airbrush) and already own a bunch of VMC's inliding Steel, Silver, Aluminum, Dark Aluminum etc.
I think if anything this video is all about the fact that there's no perfect answer. Try new products. There are so many high quality paint lines now. Lifecolor has a great Liquid Pigments line that lets you do a lot of the things enamels can do as far as weathering and detail work are concerned. Reaper's triad system is fantastic. Lines like Ammo of MIG, Ak Industries, Abteilung 502, and Wilder will let you dive as deep into the weathering/detail pool as you're willing to go.
Vince, have you tried Arbuckles Brown as the end/transition colour from fire to smoke. I discovered it by accident and love the effect so much. (specifically where the smoke is modeled, like the ironjaws shaman)
I prefer silver as I think it produces a stronger reflection, and really, what you are looking for is something that is going to reflect pure white and so you want the most polished metal.
Good video again, thanks! Just wondering how much of those preferences will change if you try Kimera Kolors. It may be the only thing I bought and tried before you recommend it :) If you like highly pigmented paints, you'll love those. The red is just so nice!
Warcolour Paints seem fantastic but they are BY FAR the most expensive when you consider if you run out of any one paint colour, it is likely you will have to buy a whole new set of paints just to get that individual paint simply because they only offer 16 of their 216 I think it was paint colours on offer as individually purchasable paints.
Are you sure this is the case? I've been looking at buying some for my brother, and if you go to the website -> single paints -> layer paints, there's a dropdown for all 92 of the normal layer paints... 2euro each it seems
Great Video - been very excited for this. It's going to save me a TON of money so I can grab all these and work from there as expanding my paint lines out of Citadel! I'm surprised you didn't list a single green in your list. Apparently you just normally don't paint green? Are there any specific greens that you think stand out above the rest?
There are some greens I use, but I tend much more to jade and turquoise. I don't really have any green's I truly love, just not my color. That being said, The Scale 75 Fantasy & Games Orc & Goblin green color set is my favorite greens.
Question - is there any prob in using vallejo metal color or any other metal color on wet palette? By the way, does they ruin the good bushs? Thanks in advance! I love your chanel!
The tiny flecks of metal that give metallics their shine will contaminate the water in the wet palette and they will shred brush bristles over time, so you really should be using a separate pot, palette and brush for them.
Basically, nice natural hair brushes should only be used for detail work that requires a sharp point such as picking up specific features on the mini, edge highlighting and freehand designs, even basecoating isn't that good for them. Every time you run the bristles across an edge or intensely bend them, you damage the hairs ever so slightly. Everything else, basecoating, drybrushing, stippling, blending (the kind where you often wipe the brush off on a paper towel), using metallics and pigments, can be done easily with cheap brushes.
It depends. I probably wouldn't as those little flakes if they get into the sponge/paper can contaminate everything. Then again, I'm the kind of chap who keeps two separate water cups; I clean both regularly, but I will only use one for metallic paints.
I am stressing out because the Vallejo Metal Color is becoming very scarce. I still have some but I'm concerned about the weapons of my future miniatures. I hope they get it sorted out!
Worry not, they put out a memo that they had to change their formula due to Covid, but the new batch has been formulated and should have the same performance and is coming soon.
Evening/Morning Vince! This was an amazing video. I have watched before but couldn't really appreciate it until my skills have improved. How you said *the primary color is least interesting to me*. My favourite part of painting is adding clean color gradients and your choices helped me here. Unfortunately im finding it difficult to get ice yellow. So, i started mixing paint, a color with glazier blue then the same color but with a warmer color. The clear stand out for me was vallejo colour pale flesh. Would this fill in for ice yellow or is that not a good warm color to mix? Thanks either way and especially for this video 👍
Always happy to help. so Ice Yellow is available in some form from AK Interactive, Vallejo and Scale, but you can also mix yourself, it's just white plus a little bit of mid-tone yellow. :)
You can usually find them in a FLGS store for about $10, but they are expensive, the key is they are also huge, they are 32ml (compared to 12 or 17 for most paints) and they are very powerful where one coat will cover about anything so it goes very far. Best money I've spent on paints.
Thanks Vince. I have the vallejo metal colours on your recommendation. Wondering how to get more tones/variation if colour from the copper and gold. Could you advise in next hobby cheating how you go about that?
There you go. Yeah, the answer is basically, mix the two and then inks together (or glaze with the inks). But I do have another video with working colors into metal colours sometime in the future.
@@VinceVenturella Oh I believe that, It's just I know you've been using a lot of paints not mentioned here like ak interactive etc. I love going to this video because when i'm in doubt, I find your and my opinion on paints are very similar so it helps a lot. Like seriously, thanks for everything you've done for all of us, I really appreciate it!
Brilliant video, also a huge fan of turquoise, pinks and magenta so have just got all the warcolours paints you’ve recommended! I use the metal colour paints for gunmetal, silver etc. Just bought the gold and copper - how do you highlight these or make a more burnished good or bronze?
So here are a few thoughts. 1) My normal gold is 3 gold to 1 copper, gives a nice rich gold. 2) I highlight with pale burnt metal or silver, adding into the mix, and then eventually to pure on the edge. 3) I shade with various brown and purple tone inks (Scale 75 Inktensity for example) 4) For bronze, I use mostly copper, with a small ratio of gold, silver and brown ink to kill out the red color. Hope that all helps.
Vince Venturella that’s really good to know, typically I’ve just used metallics as they come out of the bottle rather than mixing, which was why I was apprehensive with the metal colour gold and copper - definitely going to try this now. Thanks for the advice and super quick reply
Random question but can you point me to a video where you use your heavy warm grey? I have a suspicion that there is something wrong with my bottle as it’s very pinky and not really neutral at all, and doesn’t look anything like the colour swatch on Vallejo’s website
@@VinceVenturella thanks. It’s weird because the Vallejo website and printed colour charts show it as a yellowy grey (which looks way too different to just be the normal problems with colour swatches), and some TH-cam videos seem to show the same
Hello Vince! What type of varnish would you recommend over Necrons mostly painted with Vallejo Acrylic metals? I usually use AK super matte or Vallejo Satin but don't want to lose the great looks of these metallics.
Hello, I see that your review of the AK Interactive paints only came a few month after this video. So I was wondering how they fare for you compared to Pro Acryl.
@@VinceVenturella I'm quite new to painting and my main issue is that pro acryl seem a little better and beginner friendly because of their opacity, flow and consistency. Also AK Interactive does not have a base set. The smallest set is 100 paints, which would be to much of an investment for me. So I wouldn't know which ones to buy. But then again for the cost of the pro acryl set I could get 40 AK ones instead of the 24 from the pro acryl set. I only have 2 base sets of Vallejo game colors and had some issues with separation when thinning. Would you recommend me to choose 40 AK paints out go with the pro acryl base set?
@@john9801 Honet answer, in the long run, either would be fine. That being said, I do truly love the pro acryl base set, it's wonderful colors and really well set you up well.
Wow, you use so many of the same Vallejo colours that I use. Have you tried out Ammo of Migs metallics? They were recently released, I used to use Vallejo Metal Colors for my metal needs but switched to Ammo of Mig because I found them to be better. They separate really easily though.
I'm wondering what paints would you recommend for a white panel modulation effect on the head of a 90mm SciFy warrior bust? Have to paint it with a brush because the plates are too small for airbrushing 🙄
Well, if they are that small, you kind of want to avoid too much panel modulation and treat it more as one singlular volume with good pin washes and edge highlighting. That being said, it would depend if you were going warm or cool white. If cool white, then mid-grey (with a slight blue tone, like a wolf grey from Vallejo) up to a pure white. The colder white generally feels more "sci-fi"
Thanks, Vince! Really liked the explanation as to why you choose certain brands or shades, etc. it's hard to find a lot of these brands, though. No one in my area sells scale 75 or the Vallejo metals. Any suggestions on where to get these?
thank you but i found out something interesting i never opened by GW paints so they are all -right to use and in fact i bought them several years ago .
Excellent, always happy to help. There isn't really a single answer for shades or highlights, that's the trick. You change the shadow color based on the environment (same with the highlights). So in here (and in the pinned comment) you can see all the different tones I use for shadows, I use those with lots of different colors. It can be overwhelming at the beginning, but the key is just experimentation and basically, if you aren't sure, dark purple. It can shadow almost anything.
Great video - tempting to add lots of these to my shopping list! How do you find the Warcolours fluo paints compare with Vallejo? I have the VMC fluo green and it has a very weird consistency and refuses to adhere to the model
Honestly, I like them a lot better. None of these have any good coverage, but I really like the warcolours because of the gel. You can apply them and then smooth them around.
Buckle up ladies and gents... here is the full list and a little of what vice says about each.
1. VMC- Ice Yellow- Warm highlight
2. VGC- Glacier Blue- Cold highlight
3. VMC- Turquoise- Rich tone, oxidisation
4. VMC- Blue-Green- Rich tone, oxidisation
5. VMC- Pale Sand- Off white, used in early model/ terrain drybrush
6. VMC- Ivory- Off white, used in early model/ terrain drybrush
7. VMC- Dark Sea Blue- blue/black/grey, base of NMM steel
8. VGC- Warm Grey- Great reset colour
9. VMA- Hull Red- Warm shadow, brown tone shadow, makes black interesting
10. VMA- Cement grey- Concrete, stone, masonry
11. VMA- Randome Tan 71.074- Yellow/white tone
12. VMA- White Grey- Concrete, stone, masonry
13. VMA- IDF Sinai Grey- Concrete, stone, masonry
14. VMA- Light Rust- Base for yellow and warm zenithal
15. VGA- Cold Grey- Mid tone on zenithal prime
16. GW- Agrax earthshade
17. GW- Nuln Oil
18. GW- Seraphim Sepia
19. GW- Reikland Fleshshade- Over an ivory zenithal is Caucasian flesh in two layers
20. GW- Bugmans Glow- Tanned flesh base
21. GW- Abaddon Black- Rim bases
22. GW- Blood for the Blood God
23. GW- Nihlik Oxide
24. GWC- Aggaros Dunes- Weathering, staining
25. GWC- Flesh Hound Orange- Go to orange, fire etc.
26. GWC- Iyanden Yellow- Go to yellow, fire etc.
27. GWC- Akhelion Green- Blue not green, wonderful tone
28. GWC- Fyreslayer flesh- Thin filter over flesh base
29. PA- Bright Ivory- Off white, white/grey clothing
30. PA- Olive Flesh- Off white, white/grey clothing
31. PA- Bright Warm Grey- Off white, white/grey clothing
32. PA- Bold Pyrrote Red- Bright, go to red
33. PA- Mahogany- Warm shadows
34. PA- Yellow Ochre- Deep yellow
35. PA- Black Brown- Belts, leathers
36. WC- Flesh 5- Shadow for flesh, nice unique tone
37. WC- Ochre 1- high highlight/ spot highlight for flesh
38. WC- Turquoise all (5 paints)- great range of tones
39. WC- Purple all (5 paints)- pinks, great range of tones
40. WC- Violet 3+5- great mid violets
41. WC- Glaze paints (6)- Ready to go glazes
42. WC- Fluro paints (4)- Plasma, warpstone
43. 75F- Bloodfest Crimson- Rich Crimson
44. 75F- Harvester Flesh- Pinky flesh, used as a highlight
45. 75F- Arbuckles Brown- Shadow flesh, alien skin, leather
46. 75F- Huldra Blue- Blue shadow
47. 75F- Amarth Blue- Blue Highlight
48. 75F- Despair Green- Jade’ish green
49. 75FX- Acid Pink- keep that pink a popping
50. 75- Mojave white- Another warm white
51. 75- Black Leather- Shadows on flesh, red, orange
52. 75- African Shadow- Shadows on flesh, red, orange
53. 75- Basic Flesh- often Caucasian mid tone
54. 75- Kalahari Orange- Bright but not fire orange, good glaze on bone, pumpkins
55. 75- Adriatic Blue- Super bright blue highlight
56. 75- Deep Blue- Deep blue shade
57. DR- White
58. DR- Payne’s Grey- Use these 3 in every project- orgasmic religious experience
59. DR- Burnt Umber (all other FW inks have uses)
60. SW- Rubber- pants, belts, under suits (shade with payne’s, highlight with glacier blue)
61. SW- Old Rust- red
62. SW- Brown Rust- brown
63. VMET- Steel
64. VMET- Silver
65. VMET- Copper- Except no substitute, the whole line is great but these are a good start.
66. VMET- Gold
Total if sticking to just listed 83 paints… remember this list is just vince’s go to. There are many (the man needs an intervention) more paints and he will use them all.
Thank you so much Vince, I think this will help a lot of people!
This is amazing, this is the best comment I have seen on one of my vids. This is incredible.
Lardidar - Lewis Moorby Thank you for transcribing this, you saved me a ton of time since I stupidly didn’t take notes while watching. Great video Vince!
@@VinceVenturella My pleasure, my tiny part in all you do for this community.
THX for the TLDW thumb.
missed PA- Ivory
For me the list of colors isn't nearly as useful as the reasonings for why you like each color, really nice to hear how you think about the different paints!
Thank you, I am glad this was all helpful. :)
@@VinceVenturella yes please the longer the better. Your chill vids make for uninterrupted streches of painting our own miniatures while learning and thinking of what next to do learn and try out. Best format out of the many painting vids on youtube to put on while I'm painting.
Thank you! Especially WHY you love a certain paint. It was really helpful for me. Not only a buying guide, but more important a break down how to use a color and what effect to achieve.
Could this please be a yearly episode? 😁
It'd be cool to see an updated version including golden acrylics, heavy body acrylics and the lines that have come out since. Plus the Vincey V gold and copper home brew got all the contrast types aswell now a days. Would be great to see how you think they stack up.
After I watched Vince's video on the Vallejo Metals I bought a pair just to see how I liked them-- y'all Vince is right. Every color I've used has been the cat's meow.
I bought a few more to use on my last project, copper in particular was *chef kiss*. I think I'll just jot down here in my notebook "buy the whole damn line".
Glad to hear we have another amongst our ranks. :) - Once you use VMeC, it's a life changing experience with the metals.
Just used them on my first airbrushed models (Custodes) using Vince's Speed Gold recipe. Pretty sure I messed up a few coats, put it on too thick, sprayed over the recess shades, and the transitions could have been cleaner ... And it STILL looks smooth and coated even! Love VMC so far!
OH NO, you just reminded me I meant to order the Vallejo metal colours in my recent hobby store order but forgot :'(
Vincent, this is the video I've been looking for since I started painting 10 years ago! :) Thank you for sharing it. Several of your go to choices match the ones I already use, but I will surely give it a try to the ones you mentioned I haven't tried yet.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I really wish I had known about Vallejo when I first started painting, and built up a pretty big collection of citadel. The last paint brand guide video you did was an eye opener for me though and helped a lot
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Dw the pigments are quite similar, both designed for minis so you picked fine.
You can always start switching over when you finished a pot or convert is really easy and you waste very little paint
*sees video title*
*opens new text document*
Ok, let's do this! :D
Thanks for the video, this will hopefully save you lots of time during your Hobby Q&A shows! Will be making up a shopping list for those that I don't have. Also love seeing photos of your workspace. Moving mine to a corner soon so I'll be able to make better use of wall space :P
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Totally on board with you about the FW inks. I use those three on almost every mini.
Thanks Vince, this was very helpful. Especially, showing how you store your paints. Also, Michaels doesn't carry the Paynes Grey in Indy area so I just ordered off Amazon like you suggested. This morning, six Arbuckle boys, sons and nephews are sitting around the kitchen table watching episode 200 and painting up a AOS storm.
Awesome, so happy to help and glad you're all enjoying it. :)
Good eye Tango! We dig that awesome mat finish on all the Scale 75 ranges and especially Arbuckle's Brown.
Love the VMC line since you turned me on to them. I got tired of having to mix up warm golds from the green gold base using copper so I experimented and found Manuscript Pen Company Calligraphy Ink Gold is a very warm gold color with properties very similar - if not exactly - to that of VMC. I haven’t airbrushed it yet, but using extensively with a paint brush leads me to believe it should also behave similarly through an airbrush.
Yeah, I've tried a few gold inks and haven't liked them, but I will try that one as well. I haven't tried that one yet, so good lead. :)
Vince I think we should start a paint addiction group. Your wall might look different because of how we store our paint but I think I found someone who might have more paint than I do.
Well, that's only a portion of my paint, I have more racks than I showed here, but I have a problem. Send help. ;)
@@VinceVenturella I can help you by taking your additional paints off your hands so you have time and space to address your affliction. I am in no way trying to feed an all consuming paint addiction by stea- er, re-distributing the paint racks of others.
*itches arm*
Love this video, watched the one you did about paints few years before this one. Made me remove and add to my shopping /watch list, thanks so much for the videos.
Always happy to help :)
Nice paint. I’m a big fan of the Vallejo air- chrome- excellent mithril highlights! Thanks
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Would love to see an update on this video Vince. I just love hearing people tell me why they love a certain paint.
I would love an updated version of this video.
I am going to try to do one in the new year.
Everyone! Please support this series. Sooo good! If you don't learn something from each episode your not trying to get better. Absolutely has had an impact on the quality of my painting!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Haha nice those last few shoots put my addiction at ease, in fact im gonna go buy some more paints ^^
Sounds good to me.
As always, great vid Vince. A follow-up question: You mentioned that between Warcoulrs and Scale75, you prefer Scale at this point - is there a specific reason or is that more to do with the availability of Scale75 in the US?
Just tend to like the performance a little better. But I like both.
@@VinceVenturella thank you :)
Excellent installment as always, Sir, thanks for the insight...the Wall O Racks is a sight to behold!
There are a few more I didn't show... I may have a problem. ;)
I struggled with liquitex metals and stumbled onto Vallejo. Amazing metallics. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
I envy your paint stands, I just don't have the free wall space, because of black mold and a constant year long war against it. At the same time I worry now because I think I may actually have more paints than this. Even after giving away my old Vallejo Game colour complete set. Kind of getting to the point where I have to move out to allow my paint collection to grow any further.
That's rough, my best advice is you could always use the stand-alone paint racks (I have more than what I show here), those can just sit on a desk and hold about 60-90 paints in a shelf like bleacher rack.
@@VinceVenturella Out of desk space as well. Currently I store paint by brand/type in plastic multi drawed filing cabinet on wheels. The plastic is transparent so you can see which brand/type is in each draw. The draws are just high enough to take most paint bottle types and if you want to do a project with many from a certain brand/type you can just pull a whole drawer out.
Just bought a lot of these! Been looking for paints to try and this is great rather than buying a huge set of stuff I don't know how to use. Now to get a good paint rack
Glad I could help!
Vince I must argue I don't consider it a problem at all. How could you give us the breadth of insight about these paints unless you tried them all. By trying them all you find the same thing that anyone who has said affliction does certain paints kind of stick to you for whatever reason; whether it be blending, pigment, etc. If it is a problem and am I wrong (lord knows I am often) thank you for your affliction and I am honored to share it.
Oh it's a problem, but a good problem of course, I wouldn't change it. :)
Great video and it is great to see what paints are suggested and why.
Glad you enjoyed it
Is it a sign that I watch your channel too much if I already have most of these? 😀😀 Keep up the great work!
Seems like a good thing to me. ;)
We need a 2024 revisit of this video! 😁
We certainly do!
Dude this is awesome. On every other video you do you always say "this is one of my favorite paints". Glancing through Lardidar's summar, though, I don't see Inktense Wood listed and when you did that "how to paint faux wood video" you were so excited to talk about its name, lol. I've been wanting this video for a while and just haven't remembered to ask. I'm glad I wasn't the only one.
Yeah, it's a miss on my part, but really, I just use it for wood. It's so amazing at that task, but it's only for that task. ;)
Bugmans glow can also be used as a great base for leather.
Yeah, it's a really wonderful interesting color.
Ooo nice tip!
secret weapon's blue black and cool grey washes totally rock by the way
Excellent, I'll give them a look.
Finally a paint video that isn't going to cost me money! I already have, I think, every paint you mentioned with the exception of some of the Vallejo Model Color. Finding the individual colors within that range is a pain because it's so vast that I've mostly quit trying. As I happen across certain colors I'll pick them up, though.
Awesome, happy to help and glad this one was cheaper for you. :)
Really appreciate your recommendations due to the huge variations in quality and expense of trying out everything. I still favor the msp line due to cost and availability for core colors although i've switched to AV metallics, GSW fluoros and GW contrasts. The line(like all?) is pretty hit and miss. Just sampled 21 colors on a pallette and only consider 13 keepers. The clears are definitely the best in the line and I think you should try them if you haven't already.
Always happy to help, I will check it out. :)
Hey Vince.
First, i want to thank you, as your videos, specially the hobby cheating series, were the main reason i got back to this hobby. They are so addictive. So much that they are now the main reason i don't paint, because i rather watch the next one than actually getting work done. At least untill now. As i finally watched all of them (yeah, all of them) i guess i don't have any more excuses.
I have two questions that are not adressed in any of your hobby cheating videos, at least directly, so i'd love if you could give me an answer, or even consider it as a topic for one of your cheating videos if you think the topic is interesting enough.
First, the 3 different paints for pure white. Sometimes you use the FW ink, sometimes you use a normal white (vallejo,warcolour,scale... whatever), and sometimes you use the Full body Acrylic titanium white. Even though you usually explain why you pick one or another in that particular paintjob, i'm sure there is more to it, and it would be nice to have a guide on how and when to choose the correct white for our own projects.
Second, a very different kind of question. When i spend a bunch of hours painting, pretty often i have back and/or neck pain the next day. I'm sure you had this problem at some point, specially with long painting sessions, and maybe you could give us some pointers to have a good posture and avoid bad habits to prevent this kind of issues.
Thank you for your work and passion, and keep them coming.
Awesome and glad to hear the videos are helpful. So let me walk through both answers in simple form, but there are good videos for both.
1) I do use a lot of different white paints, and for very specific purposes. In simplest form. I use traditional white paint almost as medium when I want coverage, I use HBA white as pigment intensity and for blending and I use white ink for sharper lines and transparency. Again, it's definitely something that requires a whole video.
2) I don't really have the back pain issue, but that is all on the chair. I used to because I had a terrible chair. THe best advice I can give you is to invest heavily and spend a few hundred dollars on a good chair with excellent back support and lower lumbar support. It needs to be high enough that your feet sit flat on the ground. You will be amazed the difference.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot for your answers. I don't have a bad chair, i'll just have to sit better on it and take advantage of it i guess :P
I'm betting that Vallejo Game Color foul green is similar to Vallejo Model Color turquoise and blue green. I don't know his for sure, but I find foul green pretty impressive in terms of coverage and I use it for oxidation.
Nice!
Hi Vince! Thanks for the pointers. Here's a pot for you to try, in the vein of dark purples used for shadows (in case you haven't already): Reaper's Burgundy. I found it just perfect when I painted some Black Plague zombies, and it would work for a lot of other minis if it wasn't in my friend's paints collection, and kind of hard to get here in France; But I here they're easier to get in the US, so I hope you get a chance! Really really perfectly de-saturated for my taste. (It's harder to get a good shadow purple than it seems to the novice painter I am.)
I find your paint racks both inspiring (a painter's hobby area should be filled with beautiful things for inspiration and day-dreaming, and I find colors do that to me) and awe-inspiring, as I wouldn't know which paint to go for :-)) but then I guess you know eacj and every pot by the tip of your brush, so of course it can't make you feel that... Can it? ;-)
I will give it a try, I always love dark reds like that.
Liz Beckley loves Burgundy Wine as the shadow for skin tones. Very much agree that it works exceptionally well in that application. I also coincidentally used it on Zombicide: Black Plague
Best. thumbnail. ever. Sith Lord lightning?
Yep, someone did that as a meme once and I saved it. :)
The pigmentation and colour strength of that VMC Turquoise are insanely good. Mixing Dark Sea Blue into other paints is also a great way to reproduce the bluish look of real shadows on a clear day.
I'm thinking of trying Pro Acryl after seeing you use them so much, but shipping might be pricey for me in Australia. Do you still need to order directly them from Creature Caster?
Yep, you have to order the Pro Acryl from Creature Caster, which might make it cost prohibitive in some places, but they are wonderful. :)
Ought the vallejo metal color paints as per your recommendation. I finally got them in the mail after being hyped all week. I found them extremely difficult to work with a brush. Super watery and so foamy no matter how much I shake them. Bottle is super messy and the gold looks very greenish. The shine looks nice on the pallete but they cover poorly and don't look that way on the model. Would very much appreciate tips on these or even better video
Sure, happy to help. So first, you may want to drop a mixing ball or something similar in there to get it properly mixed, because they should cover really strongly, so if they aren't it could be a bad/old bottle or not properly mixed. Now, as to the watery, as you often see me do in videos when I use these, you do not go straight from palette to model. You touch your synthetic brush into the paint, you touch your brush to a paper towel to wick off the excess liquid, and then you apply the paint. You need to wick out the excess liquid just like as if you were working with a glaze. Now, as to the gold, it's very green intentionally as it's meant to be the far end and mixed with the copper to make actual mid tone gold (the copper is very red, so red + green gives you all sorts of mid-tones). I really wish they would be more clear on that, but I have several videos in the playlist on my favorite golds and how I make them.
I really enjoy seeing what other painters like. I'm a big fan of the VMC Buff/Pale Sand/Ivory grouping - they are so versatile. I also find myself pulling down VGC Beasty Brown and Charred Brown a lot. I tried the Metal Colors based on your recommendations - they are great, but took me a bit to get used to how thin they are. I wish the gold wasn't so green though. It seems more like aged brass than gold.
Yeah, the thinness takes adjusting, you have to wick each brush load off just like a glaze. The secret with the gold is it's intentionally green to be super cold. The copper is very red to be max warm, you actually need to mix the two often to get to a good rich gold, I like a 3-1 mix of gold to copper. That's how I get all my golds.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the tip - I'll try a little mix for my next gold.
This video was good for me. I will be adding the Daler Rowney inks and Vallejo Metals to my paint collection.
They are wonderful for sure. Can't go wrong.
A moment of appreciation for the thumbnail please everyone. Lol
I need this as a big ole wall poster. Maybe send one to Miniac to have in his background :-P
This is a fun one for sure. :) - Glad everyone enjoyed it.
This is how I imagine he actually paints. The other stuff is just for the camera.
I used the Vallejo Model Air Metalics and Scale 75 Metalics, if the Vallejo acrylic metal line makes those look lumpy looks like I will be picking some up the next time I hit the flgs.
Yep, they are amazing. Vallejo Metal Color is just the best in Acrylics.
Thank you for the tip regarding Payne Grey....cannot believe I am now black lining stuf....
Yeah, it makes the world so much easier.
No P3? I find it a seriously underestimated range.
shaunyams especially coal black and troll flesh. They are such good colors
They have the worst pots tho. ;)
@@DocEonChannel Totally agree. I love P3's Eldritch (turquoise/verdigris) colour but oh god the pot is awful. It's like a pre-school paint pot. I didn't think any pots could be worse than GW's but I was wrong.
@@DocEonChannel They do keep the paint more-or-less indefinitely, though. They're the same pots as the 1980's/1990's GW pots, of which I have a fair few and all are still fine (except my pot of Tin Bitz, where the lid cracked). Vallejo's bottles are decent, but I've had a couple of bottles of Game Colour (Gory Red and Dark Green) congeal in the pot (1 of which was unopened).
@@BRqRyEEh5Q Yeah, they keep a good while if you can get into them, because the tab on the lid always breaks looong before the pot runs out. :P
21:46
"Shade it with paynes grey and highlight it with a little ice blue
and there ya go bing bang boom
we've got ourselves a rock n'roll hoochie-coo"
If you are really a fan of vince venturella then name 3 of his albums! ;)
Top of the charts for sure.
I like to keep the pinka poppin as well.
Gotta keep it poppin.
Love this kind of thing. I have way too many paints too. Recently I picked up some monument/creature caster paints. Woooooowwwwwwwwwwww they’re nice. They’re a bit like reaper, which is a very good thing in my book!
Yeah, they are wonderful paints for sure.
For me the Daler Rowney inks were the next game changer after getting my wet palette.
Yep, they're wonderful.
Thanks, in particular for the comments on Vallejo Metal Color - I was looking for a solution there!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
My favourite part of this video was the missing wall of affiliate links that every other TH-camr seems to add to their "favourite stuff" videos :)
Just the information, just for reference, not trying to sell us anything.
THe goal was to share the info. Glad it was helpful. :)
Since you paint so often and do whole armies, I am curious which paints you (at least semi-regularly) need to buy new pots for? I am a slow painter and haven't emptied a bottle of paints since I returned to the hobby 3 years ago. I first one that I expect to replace is titanium white ink from any of the artist lines.
It's pretty rare honestly. They last for years. I guess like a Turquoise and maybe a few choice off-whites.
@@VinceVenturella You paint any change you get and if even you don't empty bottles, non of us will either!
I do remember emptying GW bottles when I painted whole armies 20 years ago. Easier to do with GW paints because of the being 12ml, partly drying out, no wet palet so applying them too thickly probably.
I still have some space in my paint racks and I've been wondering for a few weeks now what single paints you recommend from the main lines available.... and, well... here it is!
Happy to help as always. :)
Hi Vince, for some reason metal color silver is really hard to get in the UK right now. The aluminium and white aluminium look quite similar to silver online - is there much difference on the model? If not I’ll just grab one of those instead. Chrome also looks similar but I think I remember you saying you didn’t like the chrome so much
The aluminum is a nice substitute, doesn't shine quite as much, but it can work.
Hi Vince, love your videos and advice on the hobby. Just recently got back into painting and have been building up my collection with a mix of mainly Vallejo metal colours, warcolours and scale 75. All of these have provided good results. But I'm always looking for new additions and have seen Kimera colours. Just wondered if you have used them and what you thought. Maybe an idea for a future review. Be interested to see how they perform, before investing around £70. Anyway keep the videos coming!!!
I have the full set of Kimera colors on the way. I plan on putting them through the paces and doing a full review.
I have (almost) painted with all your colors mentioned in the vid and I have to say that many brands and shades are easily replaceable but Vallejo`s METAL COLORS are 110% in a league of its own! It is a shame that so many guys trying new brands and lines (e.g. eveybody bought some GW`s Contrast Paints in no time...) but still stick to old habbits/metal colors that are awful. I hope that your video turn these guys to the shiney side of life... :-) Keep up the good work!
Hopefully we will eventually convert everyone over from inferior metals and into the wonderful world of Vallejo Metal Colors.
Wow Vince I guessed you were a paint guy but geez! That vast array paints puts my collection to shame especially with the enviable racks; I like a nice rack as much as the next person. Thanks for the tips on bugman glow and flesh 5, i'll need to re watch the video on warcolours as the idea of a gel based paint sounds challenging. Now I need to go shopping for some pro acryl also! Cheers.
Happy to help as always. That's not all the paints of course, but it's a good selection. There are more, I have a problem. :)
Thanks for another interesting video Vince. Your personal commentary for each paintline was very appreciated. No surprises for anyone who has followed your Hobby Cheating series! Old ogre boy probably has all these on him.
Out of interest, have you tried the Kimera Colours paintline? I got them a month ago and have loved playing with them, but they necessitated a certain learning curve.
I haven't tried Kimera yet, I will get ahold of them soon. :)
Great to hear why each paint made the cut. Impressive number of paints...I suspect that by the time you are my age, you will have more than me :)
Well, there are a few more paints that weren't pictured here. But I'll get there. ;)
Vince
Hey Vince! I'm new to the hobby, I'm looking to buy some basic colors to start paint. I will buy some Vallejo Model Colors, but I don't know with which color to start, I'm thinking the 3 primary, 3 secondary, Ivory, Flesh, black, white, gold, silver and a wash or 2.
My questions is about primary and secondary tone, there are a lot of reds, yellows and blues in the Vallejo catalogue, which ones are the better to start with?
So those are a fine place to start (I would also grab like 3-4 off colors that you just think look cool), but in the Vallejo Model Range, there are generally some colors called "Flat Red" or "Flat/Medium Blue" and so on, those are generally good places to start.
Abaddon black?! i'm surprised Vince. I hate Abaddon black. it dries on my brush the moment I lift it off the palette. having a wet palette makes it last a little longer but it beads up and dries on my detail brushes. I find army painter black and game colour black a ton better
Yeah, I don't know, I just like that black. It's slightly satin, which I enjoy. It's not the only black I use, but I do enjoy it.
I was surprised to not see any reference to the ghost tints in your list. You used to constantly grab Minitaire Ghost Tints, especially the PLasma Fluid.
Yeah, they have fallen out of the rotation basically. I just prefer some other inks (namely the daler rowneys) for the same purpose I used to use those.
@@VinceVenturella it might be interesting to see this video again in a year, maybe two, see how it changes.
Yeah but, which paint tastes the best?
Easy. Nuln oil.
I recently discarded/gave away unused paints, because I don't want to spend time on maintaining all the pots, bottles, tubes, etc. anymore. I kept a couple of paints, and replaced colours I ran out off. other than that: every colour I need, I mix and record it in my paint journal.
speaking of: how do you keep your paints maintained?
I mean, I don't do anything special with them. They sit in those racks exactly as you see them. When I get them out to use them, I basically just give them a shake with the paint mixer and good to go. No other work really necessary. :)
Other than the daler Rowney inks mentioned what other inks would you advise for primary colours etc? Also how would you approach grey knights via airbrush? Small amount of blue ink mixed into metallics or a glaze?
Turquoise, Purple Lake, Red Earth are some of my favorites.
As to Grey Knights, this video should help. - th-cam.com/video/ByX2jIEmXJM/w-d-xo.html
Vince Venturella thanks again!
Vince, great video and one that I was hoping you’d create, thanks! Oh and I also suffer from paint addiction…can’t wait to try out the Pro Acryl line.
Yeah, it's a great line of paints. :)
My FLGS carried Vallejo Game Color but not Model Color :(. I always have to special order any I want. Great guide though!
That's a shame. Happy to help as always.
Hobby Lobby has Model Color if you have one near you
@@johnnytizz I do! Unfortunately it's a bit of a crap one so their selection is essentially just their WWII army colors. I have a few of them though
if you do not have Hastur Purple in the scale75 fantasy & games... you should try it... one of my personal favorite reds.
I do, I like that color very much as well, just don't have enough use for it. :)
Do you add FW white to VMC Silver to highlight silver metal? Just curious because I finally ordered the FW holy trinity (which I can't wait to use through my airbrush) and already own a bunch of VMC's inliding Steel, Silver, Aluminum, Dark Aluminum etc.
Nope, just pure silver generally, it reflects pretty true.
@@VinceVenturella Roger that, thanks!!
I think if anything this video is all about the fact that there's no perfect answer. Try new products. There are so many high quality paint lines now. Lifecolor has a great Liquid Pigments line that lets you do a lot of the things enamels can do as far as weathering and detail work are concerned. Reaper's triad system is fantastic. Lines like Ammo of MIG, Ak Industries, Abteilung 502, and Wilder will let you dive as deep into the weathering/detail pool as you're willing to go.
Yep, it's a golden age for miniature painting for sure. :)
Vince, have you tried Arbuckles Brown as the end/transition colour from fire to smoke. I discovered it by accident and love the effect so much. (specifically where the smoke is modeled, like the ironjaws shaman)
Yep, it's a great deep red color (like Hull Red) for that final just before carbon color.
How do you find metal color white aluminium as a highlight for silver metals? You seem to prefer the Silver for this
I prefer silver as I think it produces a stronger reflection, and really, what you are looking for is something that is going to reflect pure white and so you want the most polished metal.
Good video again, thanks! Just wondering how much of those preferences will change if you try Kimera Kolors. It may be the only thing I bought and tried before you recommend it :) If you like highly pigmented paints, you'll love those. The red is just so nice!
I am excited to get into them at some point soon for sure. :)
Warcolour Paints seem fantastic but they are BY FAR the most expensive when you consider if you run out of any one paint colour, it is likely you will have to buy a whole new set of paints just to get that individual paint simply because they only offer 16 of their 216 I think it was paint colours on offer as individually purchasable paints.
Yeah, that's tricky for sure, I do wish they had more of a build your own thing, but they tend to last a while.
Are you sure this is the case? I've been looking at buying some for my brother, and if you go to the website -> single paints -> layer paints, there's a dropdown for all 92 of the normal layer paints... 2euro each it seems
Thanks Vince
Very helpful
Awesome, happy to help as always.
Great Video - been very excited for this. It's going to save me a TON of money so I can grab all these and work from there as expanding my paint lines out of Citadel!
I'm surprised you didn't list a single green in your list. Apparently you just normally don't paint green?
Are there any specific greens that you think stand out above the rest?
There are some greens I use, but I tend much more to jade and turquoise. I don't really have any green's I truly love, just not my color. That being said, The Scale 75 Fantasy & Games Orc & Goblin green color set is my favorite greens.
Question - is there any prob in using vallejo metal color or any other metal color on wet palette? By the way, does they ruin the good bushs? Thanks in advance! I love your chanel!
Metal paints separate really fast on a wet palette. But maybe not as fast as they dry on a dry palette. YMMV.
The tiny flecks of metal that give metallics their shine will contaminate the water in the wet palette and they will shred brush bristles over time, so you really should be using a separate pot, palette and brush for them.
Basically, nice natural hair brushes should only be used for detail work that requires a sharp point such as picking up specific features on the mini, edge highlighting and freehand designs, even basecoating isn't that good for them. Every time you run the bristles across an edge or intensely bend them, you damage the hairs ever so slightly. Everything else, basecoating, drybrushing, stippling, blending (the kind where you often wipe the brush off on a paper towel), using metallics and pigments, can be done easily with cheap brushes.
It depends. I probably wouldn't as those little flakes if they get into the sponge/paper can contaminate everything. Then again, I'm the kind of chap who keeps two separate water cups; I clean both regularly, but I will only use one for metallic paints.
Thanks for all the answers! I was with this doubt! Thank you all for this! Thank you!
I am stressing out because the Vallejo Metal Color is becoming very scarce. I still have some but I'm concerned about the weapons of my future miniatures. I hope they get it sorted out!
Worry not, they put out a memo that they had to change their formula due to Covid, but the new batch has been formulated and should have the same performance and is coming soon.
Evening/Morning Vince!
This was an amazing video. I have watched before but couldn't really appreciate it until my skills have improved. How you said *the primary color is least interesting to me*. My favourite part of painting is adding clean color gradients and your choices helped me here.
Unfortunately im finding it difficult to get ice yellow. So, i started mixing paint, a color with glazier blue then the same color but with a warmer color. The clear stand out for me was vallejo colour pale flesh. Would this fill in for ice yellow or is that not a good warm color to mix? Thanks either way and especially for this video 👍
Always happy to help. so Ice Yellow is available in some form from AK Interactive, Vallejo and Scale, but you can also mix yourself, it's just white plus a little bit of mid-tone yellow. :)
@@VinceVenturella i did see ak interactive. Both sold out at my local lol.
Ah great to know, will try that route for now.
Thanks again and Tc 👍
Thank you for showing me I don't have a real paint problem.
Yes, if nothing else, this video does a great job of that. :)
Having trouble finding Vallejo Metal Color Airbrush, unless the best price available is individually on amazon for over $12 each.
You can usually find them in a FLGS store for about $10, but they are expensive, the key is they are also huge, they are 32ml (compared to 12 or 17 for most paints) and they are very powerful where one coat will cover about anything so it goes very far. Best money I've spent on paints.
Thanks Vince. I have the vallejo metal colours on your recommendation. Wondering how to get more tones/variation if colour from the copper and gold. Could you advise in next hobby cheating how you go about that?
Never mind, found your true metallic gold vid :)
There you go. Yeah, the answer is basically, mix the two and then inks together (or glaze with the inks). But I do have another video with working colors into metal colours sometime in the future.
Look at all those inks!
You ever going to do an updated version of this since it's been like what 2 and a half years?
Yep, I will do more paints videos this year, though many of these are correct still.
@@VinceVenturella Oh I believe that, It's just I know you've been using a lot of paints not mentioned here like ak interactive etc.
I love going to this video because when i'm in doubt, I find your and my opinion on paints are very similar so it helps a lot.
Like seriously, thanks for everything you've done for all of us, I really appreciate it!
have you tried ak interactive weathering pencils for edge / highlighting and drybrushing? think they might work.
I haven't messed with them, but I should give them a try sometime. :)
@@VinceVenturella Think might be good for edge highlighting. They are, naturally, very good (and fun to use) for weathering.
Brilliant video, also a huge fan of turquoise, pinks and magenta so have just got all the warcolours paints you’ve recommended!
I use the metal colour paints for gunmetal, silver etc. Just bought the gold and copper - how do you highlight these or make a more burnished good or bronze?
So here are a few thoughts.
1) My normal gold is 3 gold to 1 copper, gives a nice rich gold.
2) I highlight with pale burnt metal or silver, adding into the mix, and then eventually to pure on the edge.
3) I shade with various brown and purple tone inks (Scale 75 Inktensity for example)
4) For bronze, I use mostly copper, with a small ratio of gold, silver and brown ink to kill out the red color.
Hope that all helps.
Vince Venturella that’s really good to know, typically I’ve just used metallics as they come out of the bottle rather than mixing, which was why I was apprehensive with the metal colour gold and copper - definitely going to try this now. Thanks for the advice and super quick reply
Sorastro used ice yellow and blue green in his painting of Thor
They are great colors for sure. :)
Have you replaced/updated any paints in your list?
Many! I need to do a new version of this for sure this year. :)
Random question but can you point me to a video where you use your heavy warm grey? I have a suspicion that there is something wrong with my bottle as it’s very pinky and not really neutral at all, and doesn’t look anything like the colour swatch on Vallejo’s website
It always has that pink tone, you have the right stuff. :)
@@VinceVenturella thanks. It’s weird because the Vallejo website and printed colour charts show it as a yellowy grey (which looks way too different to just be the normal problems with colour swatches), and some TH-cam videos seem to show the same
Hello Vince! What type of varnish would you recommend over Necrons mostly painted with Vallejo Acrylic metals? I usually use AK super matte or Vallejo Satin but don't want to lose the great looks of these metallics.
Simple answer is none, I don't ever varnish metallics.
Been waiting on this for a while!!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
That pink be popping yo! :)
Gotta be poppin.
Hello, I see that your review of the AK Interactive paints only came a few month after this video.
So I was wondering how they fare for you compared to Pro Acryl.
I like them, they are definitely on the level and I find myself using them quite a bit.
@@VinceVenturella I'm quite new to painting and my main issue is that pro acryl seem a little better and beginner friendly because of their opacity, flow and consistency. Also AK Interactive does not have a base set. The smallest set is 100 paints, which would be to much of an investment for me. So I wouldn't know which ones to buy. But then again for the cost of the pro acryl set I could get 40 AK ones instead of the 24 from the pro acryl set. I only have 2 base sets of Vallejo game colors and had some issues with separation when thinning.
Would you recommend me to choose 40 AK paints out go with the pro acryl base set?
@@john9801 Honet answer, in the long run, either would be fine. That being said, I do truly love the pro acryl base set, it's wonderful colors and really well set you up well.
Wow, you use so many of the same Vallejo colours that I use. Have you tried out Ammo of Migs metallics? They were recently released, I used to use Vallejo Metal Colors for my metal needs but switched to Ammo of Mig because I found them to be better. They separate really easily though.
I haven't tried them yet, but I plan to for sure. The hunt for the perfect metal never stops.
I'm wondering what paints would you recommend for a white panel modulation effect on the head of a 90mm SciFy warrior bust?
Have to paint it with a brush because the plates are too small for airbrushing 🙄
Well, if they are that small, you kind of want to avoid too much panel modulation and treat it more as one singlular volume with good pin washes and edge highlighting.
That being said, it would depend if you were going warm or cool white. If cool white, then mid-grey (with a slight blue tone, like a wolf grey from Vallejo) up to a pure white. The colder white generally feels more "sci-fi"
Thanks, Vince! Really liked the explanation as to why you choose certain brands or shades, etc. it's hard to find a lot of these brands, though. No one in my area sells scale 75 or the Vallejo metals. Any suggestions on where to get these?
I second this, I cant get the Vallejo metals anywhere.
Depends on where you are, obviously. In Europe and Russia they're pretty common.
I always get them from Amazon, haven't had a trouble, but that is likely region dependent. That would be where I would check.
Vince Venturella thanks! I'll give amazon a try.
thank you but i found out something interesting i never opened by GW paints so they are all -right to use and in fact i bought them several years ago .
Thanks for sharing. I am a beginner and I find this very useful. Is there a chart somewhere for colours and their shadow colour?
Excellent, always happy to help. There isn't really a single answer for shades or highlights, that's the trick. You change the shadow color based on the environment (same with the highlights). So in here (and in the pinned comment) you can see all the different tones I use for shadows, I use those with lots of different colors.
It can be overwhelming at the beginning, but the key is just experimentation and basically, if you aren't sure, dark purple. It can shadow almost anything.
Looks like you have "all types of blues" in your collection.
I enjoy the color blue for sure. :)
Great video - tempting to add lots of these to my shopping list! How do you find the Warcolours fluo paints compare with Vallejo? I have the VMC fluo green and it has a very weird consistency and refuses to adhere to the model
Honestly, I like them a lot better. None of these have any good coverage, but I really like the warcolours because of the gel. You can apply them and then smooth them around.
Any thoughts on Vallejo Mecha Color line of paints?
They're fine, no issue, I used a few of them and like them okay.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you!