As an ex Vw/Audi painter I'd say you've got very poor adhesion, should be etch primed first as that's your adhesion and corrosion barrier, only needs a thin almost see through coat before your primer surfacer but it's really important.
Also never use a rust converter, they only encapsulate rust and your left with a crap finish.Under the car or inside floor pan convert away to your hearts content.In your last video i would have used tar body deadener over the converter. But I digress, I agree as here sand back to clean smooth metal, etch primer thin coat for adhesion (don't leave for too long as moisture can ruin this layer) ,primer surfacer 2-3 coats for corrosion protection and then final coat.Experience=45 years in paint industry in Aus.
When you do find yourself a unit closer to home, find one with power and invest in a Dual action sander, a compressor and a paint gun. Then during autumn and winter you can teach yourself to paint with Elly. When you sand her down use acid etch primer anywhere you have bare metal. It will give the primer and paint a better chance to adhere. Where old sound paint meets bare metal you will need to sand it until you have a feathered edge so you don't have a step in the paint.
Huw Davies. Good idea. I have done something similar and taught myself how to paint (there's heaps of very informative tutorial video's on You tube) and my level of "tinkering aptitude" was certainly no better than Ian's - so it can't be too hard. Has been a genuinely enjoyable and rewarding experience for me, and I'm sure Ian would enjoy it too, plus, it would make for even more varied and interesting video's, so, "all of the good times".
Really feel for you I used to be into classic Fords and their eagerness to dissolve took all of the joy out of the hobby for me in the end. I remember that sinking feeling as you realise a little bubble is in fact a ruddy great rust hole covered in filler and paint. I admire your persistence to keep these cars going and it makes for great viewing!
I once owned a Mk1 Triumph 1300 that was so rusty beneath the surface, that one day a tennis ball sized hole just appeared as if by magic in the nearside front wing and a week later , dandelions were growing out of it 🤦🤣
Haha yes it's funny looking back at adventures with old cars. A friend bought a freshly painted escort, really looked nice. He jacked it up to service the front suspension and whilst on the jack the doors wouldn't open. That was rotten in all the worst places.
@@mannion1985 Yep ! Been there with a '78 Escort Ghia Automatic . 1991 bargain price of £300 , genuine Ford recon 1.6 and reconditioned autobox . I loved that car until the MOT expired 3 months later and was quoted £600 to weld in a new front and rear floor. Meet the Flintstones ! 😂
Great wisdom can be found in Hubnut. Recognized the true issues that created the paint situation. Practical mitigation for Elly. Great commentary on fostering the next generation of skilled artisans. Thanks Ian and as always fun times.
You cannot spray onto zinc plate or zinc coating without using a special etch primer first. Even then, I'm not sure you are still allowed to buy it any more unless you are in the trade.
@@HubNut So something snotty with no major rotty and enough power to pull a skin off a rice pudding. Shouldn't have too much trouble for finding something totally unsuitable then.
Hey Buddy no shame in a temporary fix .. Galvanised metal requires etch primer to make paint stick ..(I ran an industrial coating shop for 11 years ) before the trolls attack !! Peace and love brother and happy tinkering 👍🏻☮❤
I'm not going to call anyone a "bodger" here. You know, the man who never made a mistake never made anything! We all have c*ck-ups (excuse my French), but the true bodger doesn't care about the quality of his work in the first place! One good thing is that it hasn't rotted through.
Ah,the joys of old cars! I love the clueless nature of Hub Nut,it makes me smile. Keep up the good work Ian,I really enjoy your videos. Never become an expert.
Ignorance is bliss, but knowing is better...no matter how painful. If you hadn't picked at the bubbles, you wouldn't have learned about the corrosion beneath, and the panel might have rotted all the way through. Then instead of a sand, convert and refinish job, you'd be welding in steel patches and trying to hide the repair. I hope you find a heated workspace closer to home, with good lighting and power receptacles, so you have a proper workshop to work on your fleet. It would seem Ellie is calling for some TLC this Fall and Winter. Thank you for making and sharing your videos...your work is appreciated.
Old cars are never ending Ian, I have had my old MGB for 33 years. The paint work from 10 feet away looks great, when you get up close it has blisters and slightly odd matching paint from where I have rattle canned a repair. Its not a show car I just enjoy it for what it is, a car that looks presentable and drives well.
Thanks for the vid Ian, I'm sorry that the circumstances weren't better. Really feel for you with your beloved Elly. It will come good, and I concur with your observations about rushed painting and the subsequent reassembly being rather too soon maybe having an impact.
Sounds like my automotive habit of fixing one thing and right after two different things break or malfunction. I have started to mitigate this by fixing two things every time I dig in.
An excellent point about new people gaining experience. Moreover, people have have faith in them, and give them work early on so they can gain that experience.
My grandpa painted a austin 35 with a brush back in the 70s and the paint job looked absolutely fantastic, he was a sign writer by trade , not plastic stickers they use now, anyway good work Ian, i think it will be very nice if you can get a unit very close to home, will save a lot of stress.🤞
It is indeed about time to tackle these problems. I think it all starts, and that will always be the case, with a good preparation beforehand on the actual respray... starting all over again as it should will be the only remedy. Good luck Ian, be safe! What you say about the new generation is truly spot on. Well put! You could have degreased and even better first grinded a bit the part you resprayed. The contamination with the antirust and the primer is quite “logic”. Greetings from too hot Belgium.
I think you are right about the need for a daily driver, the lock up is looking a bit like a scrapyard for the unusual and exotic at the moment. I do enjoy a collection caper, always entertaining. I'm intrigued to find out what your idea of a sensible and practical runaround that will keep up with modern traffic might be...
You see, this is the great attraction of HubNut. Rarely do repairs go to plan or perfection.....just the same for the majority of us.Who wants to witness fantastic success all the time? It doesn't happen to me, so I no longer feel alone the wilderness of gloom and doom anymore. Luv it!
Entertaining, but somewhat painful to watch for a fellow 2CV owner. I would think that the Welsh weather can't be much worse than what we get here in Norway and my 2CV still looks decent and rust free 7 years after I restored it, so maybe look into some proper maintenance if you can find the time. Wouldn't help much with the paint issues though. I wonder if the thick layers peeling off suggests that filler (bondo) was applied directly on the metal before the primer.
What you say about your painter is very fair. I had my volvo amazon 121 repainted in 2006 and within a couple of years the clear coat just flaked off. Now in 2020 im rebuilding the front and rear running gear and the paint is faded. In 35 years of old car ownership I have come to the conclusion that undercoating is a bad idea but regular waxing is needwd. Keep on top of the waxing HubNut
I'm off work this week and next to work on my MG TF (04 Reg).😁 The plan was to do some polybushing of the rear suspension, or maybe just loosen some rusty bolts first. So, with rear wheels off, I checked the lower arch for signs of rust. As the front had had paint scabs in the some spot a while ago. No big drama; just hacked paint and rust off, and spray with Hammerite. Smooth Silver Hammerite is a very close match to Starlight Silver. Well, good enough for the hidden bits. Back at the back, I'm poking the paint, and poking, and poking, and made a hole. "That's OK, I'll weld a bit over that." You can't weld rust, can you? Cutting it back to find good metal, getting into the curvy bit. Can't do curvy metal. Can do aluminium mesh, glass fibre, and epoxy resin. It's OK.🤔 Also poked the other side, another hole. It's more under side, so, just painted it and considered it to be a big drain hole. Also found that the uprated anti roll bar I added to compensate for the softer shocks, was upside down and hitting a bolt. This required lowering the exhaust pipe to fix. Polybushes are still in their bags.
Lovely Jubbly video Mr HubNut. I think there might of been a very thin skin of filler behind the paint, that's why it came off in flakes. There are very few cars that don't trap water behind seals, thus causing the corrosion. I'm not sure what Mr HubNut would do with a show 2cv.
I love that even your masking paper prep is retro 🤣 I guess you don't want to hear it but the whole panel needs buffed back to bare metal and keyed again.
Ian, as others have commented and I know I’m stating the obvious, looks like no etch primer, no adhesion. Otherwise paint would peel off the corroded but still adhere to good metal. In the past I’ve also deoxidised panels, particularly the welds before painting. I feel your disappointment where we find something like this with the vehicles we cherish. I suppose it’s part of the game and a good video from which we can all learn something from you rectifying the situation. I thought for a moment you my have had this weeks edition of The Cambrian News as masking paper.....Please keep up the great videos 👍
Ah, newspaper as masking paper brings back memories, a mate had a penchant for using the Sun, page three in particular, I preferred a broadsheet as fewer sheets needed and a stock in a garden shed for winter fire lighting, even the Daily Express was one back then.
@@nasirmahmood5684 True, The paint work here needs regular waxing and the suspension bushes and Engine mounts go bad much quicker as well . I keep them lubricated with good rubber restorer twice yearly . I can live with hot interiors though i did once get a melted dashboard in a Honda Prelude after leaving her all day in Seville at 45 degrees.
That reminds me of my old Almera Sport. Early 2000's Almeras even given the best possible care always seem to flake off paint beneath the rear screen at one corner . No corrosion beneath, but if you wanted to, you could pick it off with your finger nails , there was that little adhesion.
You're a nice bloke Ian and I appreciate the interlude to explain, but that result after the time and money investment isn't really acceptable. I would expect some input to resolve the problems correctly if a business is to build. Steel is steel when it's bought from stock to replace the original.
There was an issue with a defective black primer used here that would contract and cause the paint to pull away in large areas. I suspect a similar issue with that cause. Paint will usually harden and adhere well if the bond works the way it is intended.
That seal is definitely a major contributor to this issue. I've got a rear door on a van which has rusted below the window seal just like this. I'd be tempted to pack it out with grease to keep the water out, but it will run down the bodywork. If you need quick protection, then there's nothing else more effective really. You've done the right thing by at least covering it with something.
I had some paint issues last weekend, ordered colour/clear to paint a door mirror that had been scraped. Spent an hour prepping it and then several hours carefully spraying multiple coats, sanding back after some bast*** fly landed on it but got it absolutely perfect, finish like glass. Left overnight to harden and fitted it next morning...wrong colour! Close but a noticeably different shade :(
Not too horrendous to sort out to an acceptable standard - both sides from the front screen back to the rear lamp area need the be taken back to bare metal with 80 grit with an orbital sander - acid etched primed -2k primed.and then top coated. The lack of etch primer combined with the inherent flex of a 2cv shell has caused the issue. In the short term though I would try and feather the edge of where you've chipped the paint away to stop any further moisture creeping underneath .
A suggestion for TWC. A strip of steel inside the door, fastened to the door with small self-tappers, avoiding the original holes. Then use slightly longer screws to attach the window frame, through the door-skin, into the steel strip below.
Don’t get discouraged! Easy for me to say of course, but there’s something to be said for digging in one’s heels and dealing with these aggravations, even the tiniest ones. I enjoy standing back and looking at (or driving) something I’ve just repaired, even if trivial. I just finished bleeding the clutch on the MG... would take a test drive if it hadn’t started raining. :-/
I have a few things on the beetle also, and I’m afraid to mess with it. I don’t have to deal with the rain issue like you do, here in Southern California, it’s the salt air that’s an issue for me.
Many body guys swear by epoxy primer. That may mean getting a body shop involved to do the spot repairs and then having them use the epoxy primer when it comes time to strip, repair, and repaint. That seems to be the go to primer for many classic cars restorations.
Terribly difficult to get paint to adhere to a zinc coating you either compromise the zinc coating with surface preparation or you compromise the paint adhesion without. The zinc requires to oxidise to become passivated. Not an ideal substrate material by any means.
TWC - Pu sealant, Starchem is cheap and lasts, sticks like something nasty to a blanket just make sure the surfaces are clean and wax/oil free first - if you can use some screw clips aka speed fasteners
Hopefully Alan can give you some advice on how to fix it without a total strip down and respray. I think a lot of the issues may be that Ellie has a rough life, so many miles in all weathers. It's great that you take her all over the place, but the drawback is of course damage and rusty goodness.
Ian,when you get all the area,s back to bare metal ,get a wire wheel on it to get rid of all the rot ,then vac tan it its best to get it sorted before it gets worse 👍 Martin from retro restore swears by that stuff
Goodness, that was heart-breaking to watch. I've seen similar things with sprayed wood finishes - looks lovely, but hasn't actually adhered to the groundwork. Maybe Myrtle's time has come?
Might help to get some wax into the box sections (interior of car) of the window surround, this may also impede water from the seal slipping down the spot weld gaps.
I totally get the emergency repair done out of necessity. You will have to take the window out, scrape and sand, and re-paint the panel otherwise it will rust to the point that it falls out anyway. With a little care, you can get a good finish with spray cans, I have done it on repairs to my Austin. I use a handle that clips onto the can and you can use it like a spray gun. I just watched videos of people spraying and copied what they do. My repairs are still below the standard of a professional but they look good and people tell me so. No need to sacrifice HubNut ethos! Cheers
Hmm, you should see my quattro, sheets of filler came off of it, filler 5mm thick hides behind the rear bumper area, from a panel beater no less from years ago when I previously owned it and only just discovered it when I bought it back, (yes will be taken out during the restoration).
Enjoyable video as ever - that was like watching a kid pick a scab lol. I may have the answer to your modern/family woes. Hoping to replace my 07 Scenic next week. Its a clean 85k miler - its French so there are a few clonks from the front suspension and a brake warning on ( NOTE - there is nothing wrong with the brakes at all - they function fine ) MOT to Dec 20 its really clean and would fill your family man requirements as in 5 seats all with seat belts !!! Too good to scrap but will do if needs be - scrap man will give me @£100 - match that and you can gladly have it. Should provide a bit of content too. I am in Cleveland near Redcar.
Paint and bodywork gives me nightmares I’m utterly crap at it, so your not alone, keeping patching until you have time/money to do properly, it’s an old car no one expects it to be perfect.
I'm sure you'll sort the paint issues and as the old adage goes 'The person who never made a mistake never tried anything.' I absolutely love these cars. The adventures I've had in them you wouldn't believe. I drove my yellow one to Greece and back. I just escaped from the former Yugoslavia as the civil war broke out. At one point we were caught in a riot filled with men waving AK47's around and firing into the air... well, at least I think they were firing into the air! Hope that puts the paint issue into some sort of perspective 🤪
Probably one of them cases of chalking it up to experience, and will probably result in a bare metal respray, eventually, given that raptor stuff has decided to be more of a water container than paint... :(
Could be worse you could be my old neighbour who was confronted with a missing ariel and a child sized arm hole in his front wing. All because I enjoyed popping rust bubbles 😁😀 he was a police man the instant regret as I watched the Ariel disappear.
I think that Myrtle is your perfect winter transport without the need for you to buy another vehicle. Your fleet is sizeable enough as you are finding out trying to keep on top of all the maintenance.
Ahh I can feel the frustration and disappointment. That all needs to be ground back and repainted. Leaving it too long will lead to a much bigger job. Right now it looks like it only needs the minimum of welding, if any.
1:15 Bonus Bird poo on the rear quarter window :) and you went to Alan because of his bodywork .. erm ... you could have phrased that better .. haha .. Hubnut the gift that keeps on giving :)
I would say you need to reseal that quarter window. As long as it is leaking you can't fix the rust. Either take it out and replace the gasket, or seal this one in place with silicone.
I'm happy that you found the best masking material you can get ;-)) Now it's 16.45 h (Berlin Time) and I have to go to a bicylce demostration with my 1972 Peugeot folding bike. The second half later...
Just keep going on rubbing down the rust bubbles and treat as you e done , then in a couple of years take her off the road to do a full body resto but in the meantime just enjoy driving Ellie
Totally agree Ian, we do need young blood to take a intrest in the older cars and become the specialists for the future. You always seem upbeat when things come to test you.
Yes we all feel for you Ian, luckily as you said she's no trailer queen, people like to see car's with a life story. Could be worse, my friends Porsche is in for repair today. Requires a new expansion tank, only £400 ! ! 😯
Hey, this thick layer it is a paint or putty ? Anyway I admire that you show us everytking what you do, even when you have some issues during this. Please keep on and maby show us some Ford Sierra review ?
At least when you removed the paint there was still metal underneath, so it’s not all bad! 😎
As an ex Vw/Audi painter I'd say you've got very poor adhesion, should be etch primed first as that's your adhesion and corrosion barrier, only needs a thin almost see through coat before your primer surfacer but it's really important.
Especially on any kind of galvanised surface, etch primer is a must. Learned that the hard way myself.
I am now a covert to etch primer on any bare metal painting.
Also never use a rust converter, they only encapsulate rust and your left with a crap finish.Under the car or inside floor pan convert away to your hearts content.In your last video i would have used tar body deadener over the converter. But I digress, I agree as here sand back to clean smooth metal, etch primer thin coat for adhesion (don't leave for too long as moisture can ruin this layer) ,primer surfacer 2-3 coats for corrosion protection and then final coat.Experience=45 years in paint industry in Aus.
Have watched HubNut before? 😂
'I've not got time to do a decent job' that's a life motto right there.
When you do find yourself a unit closer to home, find one with power and invest in a Dual action sander, a compressor and a paint gun.
Then during autumn and winter you can teach yourself to paint with Elly.
When you sand her down use acid etch primer anywhere you have bare metal. It will give the primer and paint a better chance to adhere.
Where old sound paint meets bare metal you will need to sand it until you have a feathered edge so you don't have a step in the paint.
Huw Davies. Good idea. I have done something similar and taught myself how to paint (there's heaps of very informative tutorial video's on You tube) and my level of "tinkering aptitude" was certainly no better than Ian's - so it can't be too hard. Has been a genuinely enjoyable and rewarding experience for me, and I'm sure Ian would enjoy it too, plus, it would make for even more varied and interesting video's, so, "all of the good times".
Really feel for you I used to be into classic Fords and their eagerness to dissolve took all of the joy out of the hobby for me in the end. I remember that sinking feeling as you realise a little bubble is in fact a ruddy great rust hole covered in filler and paint. I admire your persistence to keep these cars going and it makes for great viewing!
I once owned a Mk1 Triumph 1300 that was so rusty beneath the surface, that one day a tennis ball sized hole just appeared as if by magic in the nearside front wing and a week later , dandelions were growing out of it 🤦🤣
Haha yes it's funny looking back at adventures with old cars. A friend bought a freshly painted escort, really looked nice. He jacked it up to service the front suspension and whilst on the jack the doors wouldn't open. That was rotten in all the worst places.
@@mannion1985 Yep ! Been there with a '78 Escort Ghia Automatic . 1991 bargain price of £300 , genuine Ford recon 1.6 and reconditioned autobox . I loved that car until the MOT expired 3 months later and was quoted £600 to weld in a new front and rear floor. Meet the Flintstones ! 😂
HubNut - DISASTERS HANDLED VERY BADLY - get that t-shirt made!!! 😂👍 Love the channel man, keep up the great work! 👍
I’d buy that
@@davidbutler7602 How many T-shirts can a man make????? :-)
Get Murtle the Matiz running! She can be your runabout!
Yeah, that would be a good idea. It would be economical for getting from home to the unit.
Great wisdom can be found in Hubnut. Recognized the true issues that created the paint situation. Practical mitigation for Elly. Great commentary on fostering the next generation of skilled artisans. Thanks Ian and as always fun times.
No etch primer .
Ha, just commented the same thing before I read yours!
I was just going to comment that as well. It's essential
Yes, obvs just lack of paint experience.
You cannot spray onto zinc plate or zinc coating without using a special etch primer first.
Even then, I'm not sure you are still allowed to buy it any more unless you are in the trade.
He says Need to acquire some sort of snotter to get me through the winter whilst standing in a garage surrounded by snotters 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ronnie Kray. Just what I thought, can things get any snottier?
Ok, snotty but with an engine over 1-litre in size...
@@HubNut So something snotty with no major rotty and enough power to pull a skin off a rice pudding. Shouldn't have too much trouble for finding something totally unsuitable then.
Hey Buddy no shame in a temporary fix ..
Galvanised metal requires etch primer to make paint stick ..(I ran an industrial coating shop for 11 years ) before the trolls attack !! Peace and love brother and happy tinkering 👍🏻☮❤
Your humility proceeds you Sir, and good luck with your daunting task 👍 Tam.
I'm not going to call anyone a "bodger" here. You know, the man who never made a mistake never made anything! We all have c*ck-ups (excuse my French), but the true bodger doesn't care about the quality of his work in the first place! One good thing is that it hasn't rotted through.
Don't dis a Bodger, they were skilled men turning wood on treadle bow lathes making chair legs, staircase spindles etc.
The joys of cars, it stops you get bored, its quite thoughtful of her really. I can say truthfully say I'm learning from you
Ah,the joys of old cars! I love the clueless nature of Hub Nut,it makes me smile. Keep up the good work Ian,I really enjoy your videos. Never become an expert.
Ignorance is bliss, but knowing is better...no matter how painful. If you hadn't picked at the bubbles, you wouldn't have learned about the corrosion beneath, and the panel might have rotted all the way through. Then instead of a sand, convert and refinish job, you'd be welding in steel patches and trying to hide the repair. I hope you find a heated workspace closer to home, with good lighting and power receptacles, so you have a proper workshop to work on your fleet. It would seem Ellie is calling for some TLC this Fall and Winter. Thank you for making and sharing your videos...your work is appreciated.
Old cars are never ending Ian, I have had my old MGB for 33 years. The paint work from 10 feet away looks great, when you get up close it has blisters and slightly odd matching paint from where I have rattle canned a repair. Its not a show car I just enjoy it for what it is, a car that looks presentable and drives well.
Paint reaction was my worse nightmare when I "restored" my old MGF. Absolutely awful, so I totally understand your pain.
Thanks for the vid Ian, I'm sorry that the circumstances weren't better. Really feel for you with your beloved Elly. It will come good, and I concur with your observations about rushed painting and the subsequent reassembly being rather too soon maybe having an impact.
Sounds like my automotive habit of fixing one thing and right after two different things break or malfunction. I have started to mitigate this by fixing two things every time I dig in.
So thats an R of 0.5.
An excellent point about new people gaining experience. Moreover, people have have faith in them, and give them work early on so they can gain that experience.
Watching these makes me get through my own projects with 80's Toyotas. Rust galore.
Yep, same with my 88 Mazda.
My grandpa painted a austin 35 with a brush back in the 70s and the paint job looked absolutely fantastic, he was a sign writer by trade , not plastic stickers they use now, anyway good work Ian, i think it will be very nice if you can get a unit very close to home, will save a lot of stress.🤞
It is indeed about time to tackle these problems. I think it all starts, and that will always be the case, with a good preparation beforehand on the actual respray... starting all over again as it should will be the only remedy.
Good luck Ian, be safe!
What you say about the new generation is truly spot on. Well put!
You could have degreased and even better first grinded a bit the part you resprayed. The contamination with the antirust and the primer is quite “logic”.
Greetings from too hot Belgium.
I hear you Mr Hubnut - old cars… ! But they have character and are always rewarding when they “work”
Zintec needs etch priming before paint, this could explain the apparent lack of adhesion
I think you are right about the need for a daily driver, the lock up is looking a bit like a scrapyard for the unusual and exotic at the moment. I do enjoy a collection caper, always entertaining. I'm intrigued to find out what your idea of a sensible and practical runaround that will keep up with modern traffic might be...
Nice to see the Hub Nut saga in full swing! You should definitely learn to weld in the winter for the Yugo
You see, this is the great attraction of HubNut. Rarely do repairs go to plan or perfection.....just the same for the majority of us.Who wants to witness fantastic success all the time? It doesn't happen to me, so I no longer feel alone the wilderness of gloom and doom anymore. Luv it!
1:45 - that moment when you wish you could turn the clock back 30 seconds
Thanks Ian, and remembering your wonderful trip last year. Memories...Let's hope you can take Ellie somewhere soon, far and wide.
Entertaining, but somewhat painful to watch for a fellow 2CV owner.
I would think that the Welsh weather can't be much worse than what we get here in Norway and my 2CV still looks decent and rust free 7 years after I restored it, so maybe look into some proper maintenance if you can find the time.
Wouldn't help much with the paint issues though. I wonder if the thick layers peeling off suggests that filler (bondo) was applied directly on the metal before the primer.
Get the angle grinder on to that bodywork - give the primer something to stick to.
Paint job is clearly a lack of preparation prior to applying paint.
Peeling that paint reminds me of peeling the paint off wooden window ledges lol.
What you say about your painter is very fair. I had my volvo amazon 121 repainted in 2006 and within a couple of years the clear coat just flaked off. Now in 2020 im rebuilding the front and rear running gear and the paint is faded. In 35 years of old car ownership I have come to the conclusion that undercoating is a bad idea but regular waxing is needwd. Keep on top of the waxing HubNut
I'm off work this week and next to work on my MG TF (04 Reg).😁 The plan was to do some polybushing of the rear suspension, or maybe just loosen some rusty bolts first. So, with rear wheels off, I checked the lower arch for signs of rust. As the front had had paint scabs in the some spot a while ago. No big drama; just hacked paint and rust off, and spray with Hammerite. Smooth Silver Hammerite is a very close match to Starlight Silver. Well, good enough for the hidden bits.
Back at the back, I'm poking the paint, and poking, and poking, and made a hole. "That's OK, I'll weld a bit over that." You can't weld rust, can you? Cutting it back to find good metal, getting into the curvy bit. Can't do curvy metal. Can do aluminium mesh, glass fibre, and epoxy resin. It's OK.🤔 Also poked the other side, another hole. It's more under side, so, just painted it and considered it to be a big drain hole. Also found that the uprated anti roll bar I added to compensate for the softer shocks, was upside down and hitting a bolt. This required lowering the exhaust pipe to fix. Polybushes are still in their bags.
Thanks again Ian for the quick and very helpful reply. Best and kindest wishes Gerry Low
Lovely Jubbly video Mr HubNut. I think there might of been a very thin skin of filler behind the paint, that's why it came off in flakes. There are very few cars that don't trap water behind seals, thus causing the corrosion. I'm not sure what Mr HubNut would do with a show 2cv.
I love that even your masking paper prep is retro 🤣
I guess you don't want to hear it but the whole panel needs buffed back to bare metal and keyed again.
Indeed. This bodge was purely about getting it covered.
@@HubNut Absolutely, please keep grinding away, you make enjoyable videos.
Ian, as others have commented and I know I’m stating the obvious, looks like no etch primer, no adhesion. Otherwise paint would peel off the corroded but still adhere to good metal. In the past I’ve also deoxidised panels, particularly the welds before painting. I feel your disappointment where we find something like this with the vehicles we cherish. I suppose it’s part of the game and a good video from which we can all learn something from you rectifying the situation. I thought for a moment you my have had this weeks edition of The Cambrian News as masking paper.....Please keep up the great videos 👍
Ah, newspaper as masking paper brings back memories, a mate had a penchant for using the Sun, page three in particular, I preferred a broadsheet as fewer sheets needed and a stock in a garden shed for winter fire lighting, even the Daily Express was one back then.
I really am so thankful I live in Southern Spain
But you have to contend with paint fading and discolouration. Not to mentioned the oven-like interiors.
@@nasirmahmood5684 True, The paint work here needs regular waxing and the suspension bushes and Engine mounts go bad much quicker as well . I keep them lubricated with good rubber restorer twice yearly . I can live with hot interiors though i did once get a melted dashboard in a Honda Prelude after leaving her all day in Seville at 45 degrees.
@@nasirmahmood5684 Especially a red car!
Looks like no etch primer was used .
Oh dear. I hear you. Old cars, huh.
How very on-theme for you. Good to hear from you and that your life is doing Ok.
Good luck!
That reminds me of my old Almera Sport. Early 2000's Almeras even given the best possible care always seem to flake off paint beneath the rear screen at one corner . No corrosion beneath, but if you wanted to, you could pick it off with your finger nails , there was that little adhesion.
Oh Dear ! Ian really is having some bad times.. I think we should form a prayer group
You're a nice bloke Ian and I appreciate the interlude to explain, but that result after the time and money investment isn't really acceptable. I would expect some input to resolve the problems correctly if a business is to build. Steel is steel when it's bought from stock to replace the original.
I agree
There was an issue with a defective black primer used here that would contract and cause the paint to pull away in large areas. I suspect a similar issue with that cause. Paint will usually harden and adhere well if the bond works the way it is intended.
That seal is definitely a major contributor to this issue. I've got a rear door on a van which has rusted below the window seal just like this.
I'd be tempted to pack it out with grease to keep the water out, but it will run down the bodywork. If you need quick protection, then there's nothing else more effective really. You've done the right thing by at least covering it with something.
Use Ar-Bor all around the the window rubber seal , it will keep the water out .Got mine of flea bay it worked a treat and it is designed for that job.
I had some paint issues last weekend, ordered colour/clear to paint a door mirror that had been scraped. Spent an hour prepping it and then several hours carefully spraying multiple coats, sanding back after some bast*** fly landed on it but got it absolutely perfect, finish like glass. Left overnight to harden and fitted it next morning...wrong colour! Close but a noticeably different shade :(
I also remembered the fox has plastic body and a galvanized chassis....... Might your winter crouser..?
I don’t know what colour match Citroen Alpine White will be and I don’t care. Love it
First time I've ever seen someone strip paint off a car with a Stanley knife.
Saw a car with a hubnut sticker on the car park at work today in Birmingham
Not too horrendous to sort out to an acceptable standard - both sides from the front screen back to the rear lamp area need the be taken back to bare metal with 80 grit with an orbital sander - acid etched primed -2k primed.and then top coated. The lack of etch primer combined with the inherent flex of a 2cv shell has caused the issue. In the short term though I would try and feather the edge of where you've chipped the paint away to stop any further moisture creeping underneath .
A suggestion for TWC. A strip of steel inside the door, fastened to the door with small self-tappers, avoiding the original holes. Then use slightly longer screws to attach the window frame, through the door-skin, into the steel strip below.
Don’t get discouraged! Easy for me to say of course, but there’s something to be said for digging in one’s heels and dealing with these aggravations, even the tiniest ones. I enjoy standing back and looking at (or driving) something I’ve just repaired, even if trivial. I just finished bleeding the clutch on the MG... would take a test drive if it hadn’t started raining. :-/
I have a few things on the beetle also, and I’m afraid to mess with it. I don’t have to deal with the rain issue like you do, here in Southern California, it’s the salt air that’s an issue for me.
I have salt AND rain! Not a great mix...
HubNut DOH! 😬😬
Many body guys swear by epoxy primer. That may mean getting a body shop involved to do the spot repairs and then having them use the epoxy primer when it comes time to strip, repair, and repaint. That seems to be the go to primer for many classic cars restorations.
It's used on military and civil aircraft, so it must be good.
May I suggest "Torium" as the Sana's name? Glad that Ellie is receiving running repairs, I have a big soft spot for 2CVs. Keep battling on, old chap ☺
Terribly difficult to get paint to adhere to a zinc coating you either compromise the zinc coating with surface preparation or you compromise the paint adhesion without. The zinc requires to oxidise to become passivated. Not an ideal substrate material by any means.
TWC - Pu sealant, Starchem is cheap and lasts, sticks like something nasty to a blanket just make sure the surfaces are clean and wax/oil free first - if you can use some screw clips aka speed fasteners
Hopefully Alan can give you some advice on how to fix it without a total strip down and respray. I think a lot of the issues may be that Ellie has a rough life, so many miles in all weathers. It's great that you take her all over the place, but the drawback is of course damage and rusty goodness.
They are your vehicles, do what you want... each vid is brilliant, so do not worry🙂
Oh no! What a piece of bad luck! I am so sorry this has happened.
Ian,when you get all the area,s back to bare metal ,get a wire wheel on it to get rid of all the rot ,then vac tan it its best to get it sorted before it gets worse 👍 Martin from retro restore swears by that stuff
Goodness, that was heart-breaking to watch. I've seen similar things with sprayed wood finishes - looks lovely, but hasn't actually adhered to the groundwork. Maybe Myrtle's time has come?
Might help to get some wax into the box sections (interior of car) of the window surround, this may also impede water from the seal slipping down the spot weld gaps.
I totally get the emergency repair done out of necessity. You will have to take the window out, scrape and sand, and re-paint the panel otherwise it will rust to the point that it falls out anyway. With a little care, you can get a good finish with spray cans, I have done it on repairs to my Austin. I use a handle that clips onto the can and you can use it like a spray gun. I just watched videos of people spraying and copied what they do. My repairs are still below the standard of a professional but they look good and people tell me so. No need to sacrifice HubNut ethos! Cheers
Hmm, you should see my quattro, sheets of filler came off of it, filler 5mm thick hides behind the rear bumper area, from a panel beater no less from years ago when I previously owned it and only just discovered it when I bought it back, (yes will be taken out during the restoration).
Enjoyable video as ever - that was like watching a kid pick a scab lol.
I may have the answer to your modern/family woes. Hoping to replace my 07 Scenic next week. Its a clean 85k miler - its French so there are a few clonks from the front suspension and a brake warning on ( NOTE - there is nothing wrong with the brakes at all - they function fine ) MOT to Dec 20 its really clean and would fill your family man requirements as in 5 seats all with seat belts !!! Too good to scrap but will do if needs be - scrap man will give me @£100 - match that and you can gladly have it. Should provide a bit of content too. I am in Cleveland near Redcar.
Thanks, but I think I have another solution that should present itself over the weekend...
far better bodge than what i've done with the hole on my 414 wing
Paint and bodywork gives me nightmares I’m utterly crap at it, so your not alone, keeping patching until you have time/money to do properly, it’s an old car no one expects it to be perfect.
That hurt. It looked like very thick paint or even filler.
I'm sure you'll sort the paint issues and as the old adage goes 'The person who never made a mistake never tried anything.'
I absolutely love these cars. The adventures I've had in them you wouldn't believe. I drove my yellow one to Greece and back. I just escaped from the former Yugoslavia as the civil war broke out. At one point we were caught in a riot filled with men waving AK47's around and firing into the air... well, at least I think they were firing into the air!
Hope that puts the paint issue into some sort of perspective 🤪
I remember brand new rusty Austin Meastro's on a local dealer forecourt.... Sad times.
Probably one of them cases of chalking it up to experience, and will probably result in a bare metal respray, eventually, given that raptor stuff has decided to be more of a water container than paint... :(
More content to watch just before I leave for work! NICE!
Hub Nuts HSE would love the way you are using that Stanley knife Ian
just think of the extra mpg on the way home with less paint
Also the increase in performance ! ☺️
i hope i have not offended ian though as love this channel and everything it stands for but i love a motoring joke as well
I feel you may need to take the window out to get under the seal to ensure a good base and no return of the ninja moisture.
Could be worse you could be my old neighbour who was confronted with a missing ariel and a child sized arm hole in his front wing. All because I enjoyed popping rust bubbles 😁😀 he was a police man the instant regret as I watched the Ariel disappear.
HubNut, ref winter wheels, have you seen the cheap Rover 75 Tourer for sale in Wales on carandclassic. Seller is looking for a 4x4 ???
I think that Myrtle is your perfect winter transport without the need for you to buy another vehicle.
Your fleet is sizeable enough as you are finding out trying to keep on top of all the maintenance.
Ahh I can feel the frustration and disappointment. That all needs to be ground back and repainted. Leaving it too long will lead to a much bigger job. Right now it looks like it only needs the minimum of welding, if any.
1:15 Bonus Bird poo on the rear quarter window :) and you went to Alan because of his bodywork .. erm ... you could have phrased that better .. haha .. Hubnut the gift that keeps on giving :)
Did I miss where the GSA went ?
On a positive note, I can see a future for "This is going marvellously wrong" Hubnut merchandise
I would say you need to reseal that quarter window. As long as it is leaking you can't fix the rust. Either take it out and replace the gasket, or seal this one in place with silicone.
I'm happy that you found the best masking material you can get ;-)) Now it's 16.45 h (Berlin Time) and I have to go to a bicylce demostration with my 1972 Peugeot folding bike. The second half later...
Just keep going on rubbing down the rust bubbles and treat as you e done , then in a couple of years take her off the road to do a full body resto but in the meantime just enjoy driving Ellie
Totally agree Ian, we do need young blood to take a intrest in the older cars and become the specialists for the future. You always seem upbeat when things come to test you.
Omg things are just getting worse. Hubnut is painting lol.
Yes we all feel for you Ian, luckily as you said she's no trailer queen, people like to see car's with a life story.
Could be worse, my friends Porsche is in for repair today.
Requires a new expansion tank, only £400 ! ! 😯
Yikes! Elly definitely doesn't need one of those. ;-)
Matching white paint is like rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic!
that yugo is earning its money, being a useful table and part putter oner that your working on another car
What about some tigerseal and some pop rivets for twcs window runner. Shot the matiz on the road for now she's OK isn't she?
Hey, this thick layer it is a paint or putty ? Anyway I admire that you show us everytking what you do, even when you have some issues during this. Please keep on and maby show us some Ford Sierra review ?
Please get the Fox up and running! It's my favourite!