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Andrew Boey, dude you saved me a crap load of money, thanks. I can't believe I never thought of this before. This is good enough to let me turn day to night. I can now overpower the noonday sun with one speedlight and sync multiple lights with no need for triggers and receiver, brilliant, just brilliant. This has proven to be really fantastic, thank you so much for sharing.
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This is actually pretty interesting. Yes, if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter) and yes, this eats LOTS of battery power but it's great to have another trick up your sleeve because you never know what's going to happen tomorrow and as a professional photographer it is your responsibility to make things work.
You said: "if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter)" But the fact is, you have to have a flash that supports HSS to do this "trick" anyway, otherwise your camera will never let you select a shutter speed of 1/5000 with the flash attached.
Quick ? what do you recommend if you are in bright sunlight. You didn't mention that if you are using filters. Can you explain this in your syn method. Enjoyed the info keep up good work
Holy crap, I can’t believe this actually works! I’m gonna go back and review this a half a dozen times just to believe what I’m seeing. These flashes don’t come cheap but they’re far less expensive than a megawatt high speed sync ProFoto strobe system. Great video👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽... I’m a subscriber now.
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You can also achieve the same effect-using an - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but significantly less depth of field.
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Hi, everyone :) To make this work here's what you need to do: 1. Flash on lightstand: Remote on SU4 at 1/1 power 2. Flash on camera: 1/1 Full power (on Manual mode, NOT TTL) 3. Camera on MANUAL exposure mode (M) 4. F number on camera: as low as you like 5. ISO: 100 to 200 is good 6. Shutter Speed: 1/thousands so that the photo does not over exposed (I normally meter to -2 on Matrix) Nice of all of you to drop by and follow my works, thank you Andrew Boey Director Of Academy Nikonian Academy
But for those who like to know WHY this works: You flash in full power should be longer, or same that your cameras fastest mechanical speed=sync-speed. So, if your camears sync is 1/250s, your flash have to keep the light on that time, even if you camera is setted to 1/4000s, as this is just a narrow curtain travellin over the "film-port" on sync-speed. In short, you have to have "slow flash" and that is what you can check from your flash manual, what is the flash-time on full blast.
Hey thanks allot for this! I have a d5100 Nikon body, and Yongnuo 568ex flash.This is a great little camera but has no HSS. So this work around is exactly what I was looking for!
Very confusing. With SB 900 and hss activated, you can go up to 1/8000 and TTL easily. Why do you have to set on full power. In the clip you did not explain the mode used for the sb900. TTL remode HSS or SU4 manual Waiting for urs answer
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if you don't want to stop down the aperture for DSLRs with no HSS like the nikon D3000 series just use an ND filter and shoot below the sync speed. The flash will illuminate the subject whilst keeping the background properly exposed.
Nice trick Andriew Boey !. It's a kind of Super Sync with speedy lights. It can provide a bit more flash to subject distance range than HSS alone. But it needs HSS between on camera flash and remote flash, and the last one must be at full power. Really nice !. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.
Hi Andrew, Thanks for these great videos that you have provided about breaking the Sync speed. Is there a way to calculate the Key light to subject distance using this method or is it just trial and error ? Thanks for your help.
You're a GENIUS. Thank you for sharing this with us. I'm using Sony cameras, and I finally got this to work. I have have a Nissin i60A and two off-brand Photoolex M500 flashes as well as the Nissin Air 1 Commander.
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Thanks for the video - my question is how do you get the flash exposure correct with this method, since you're setting the flash at full power and the aperture wide open? Do you experiment with the flash distance to the model? Also, what is the reason the controller flash has to also be on full power? Thanks! I love your videos!
I may of missed it, do we have to make any changes in the camera to use the HSS? or just manual, change shutter and other settings then follow directions for the speed lights? Great Video, very informative
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Hello, a very interesting episode, but in Canon when I put a lamp on the camera, which does not have HSS, it automatically sets up the synchronization time to 1 / 250s. what to do in this case?
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Just kidding. I use a godox X trigger and set it together with my camera with HSS in group A. But there's no flash receiving this signal, only another flash trigger on top of that one, triggering my external flash with its dumb signal that is not smart enough to be detected by the stubborn bossy camera who doesn't know its place.
Can you explain it a bit more. How did you make the flashes burst.......? And if your are on full power on the camera mounted flash how did you manage to do HSS? I did'n get that bit at all.
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You can also achieve the same effect-using your normal sync shutter speed and a - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter if you set your flash exposure to F/5.6 you would then set your aperture to F/1.4 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but significantly less depth of field.?
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So to be clear, the flash that was firing at the model behind the umbrella was in manual mode as well and was on which mode?? Receiver mode waiting to "see the light" from the flash on the camera in IR triggered mode? or what exactly? thanks
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Does this mean that we can only use this method using 2 or more flashes? And single on-camera flash alone will not poduce the same background-blur output?
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Hi there I really like what you have shown in the Video . But still i m confused could u clear me on this will this work on Nikon d5100 and With any flash that supports Slave mode ?? Do i need to put the flash on camera or i can on cmaera built flash to trigger the other flash ? Thanks:-
For blurring the background in daylight using larger apertures like 1.4-2.8, I would use a variable ND filter for around $30. By stepping down 5 stops you can bring the shutter speed from 1/8000 down to 1/250. Am I missing something?
I intend to use one speedlight for portraits.If I got this right the key is just to raise the power of the flash to full?And of course raise the shutter speed above 1/200th or 1/250th.Is that right? Thank you!!Regards!
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hi, another beginner question - i have Nikon d3300 and two speedlights: TRIOPO TR 560EX and cheeper VILTROX JY680A; should i make all this tricks shown in the video above?
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I have a D5600 and an SB600. What else would i need to make this work? Also, with the flash on the hotshoe my shutter speed stays at 1/200. Am i missing something?
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A bit of misunderstanding and misinformation on how this really works. The on camera flash does NOT need to be on full power (but it may be needed to trigger the remote flash if the remote flash sensor is pointed in the wrong direction and/or it is very bright). It is there SIMPLY to fool the camera into using the different internal flash timing settings from HSS on flashes which are set to *not* use HSS. The Matrix metering mode on the camera is also not mandatory, TTL is not being used, so since you are using manual flash, it doesn't matter what the camera "sees", you decide how your background and foreground appear via ISO, aperture, shutter speed and flash. Back in April, 2012, I describe this in detail here on Yourtube, do a search for "High Speed Hack Trick". :) Today, we use high end triggers like the PW ControlTL units that take advantage of this technology and call it HyperSync. They also add adjustability to maximize the power output to the flash to shutter timing event and a ton more features. It is also possible to do with other basic triggers like the Plus II, but the triggers have to be fairly quick, not all triggers will work properly. We also use studio strobes so that even more power can be output and we can start to easily overpower the sun without needing tools like ND filters that can introduce artifacts into the shot. There are many ways to accomplish similar effects, and it makes a great tool for photographers that like to shoot outside. Thank-you for your video!
Jerry P.H. I've tried and I don't know what the key step is that I am missing. I've watched your video before his as well, and to be honest, there were a lot of steps that confused me. I can not find quick and simple instructions anywhere :/ lol
Ryan Garcia When you looked at my video of the High Speed Hack Trick (here at TH-cam under the JerryPHcom name), what part confused you? And to answer your question, yes, you need a flash that can use HSS, not to use HSS, but to fool the camera into using the HSS timing tables so that you can get properly lit frames. Best way is to use wireless triggers. The cheap ones won't work well, but something like PocketWizards and other faster triggers will work. Again, the on camera flash HAS to be TTL/HSS compatible. Does it 100% work on your camera? I have no way to know, I am a Nikon person.
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I tried this many times with my canon 60D and my Digitek DFL-200T-11057KV(C) and DIGITEk DFL-003 but it didnt work at all .. I got VISICO 5 ttl wireless flash with my wireless trigger i pointed to the flash same as u did in the video .. both the method didnt work at all ... any input or suggestion for me please .. THANK Q in advance Andrew Boey .. U r the only one who teach the best to find on the internet ..
you HAVE to have a camera with HHS or Auto-FP (Nikon)... this "little" bit of info was left OUT of this video for some funny reason..... there is NO WAY to effectively bypass ones shutter sync speed WITHOUT a Higher level cannon or Nikon DSLR using HSS (Cannon) or Auto-FP (Nikon)
Thank you thank you thank you. I appreciate this guy's demonstration, but that's the whole damn point of having that option on cameras to begin with. Where exactly is the hack again? Not asking you.
I think this is HyperSync, not High Speed Sync. That's why the power has to be at full power. If it were HSS, then you could use other power levels. If you have a flash lying around, it's worth trying.
It's pouring with rain here in the UK,Im just about to go to work,& I'm just watching some TH-cam clips before I go.This has made my day! The Kung Fu humour was hilarious,but did get the point across! Thank you for making my day brighter AND this great tip!
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Hi andrew , do we need a HSS flash as the trigger ? I think you didnt mention what type of flash do we need as the triger, you just said in Manual and full powe.. I used a sony a7, and i need a hss for my outdoor shooting because the sun is very bright in Bali which where i live.. Thank you for your attention, terima kasih
+ocky misa For this method, set the camera to HSS (or Auto-FP for Nikon), then set your on-camera flash to manual at full power and your off-camera flash to slave mode on full power. When the flash on your camera goes off, it will trigger the 2nd flash, giving you the light you need. Setting the camera to HSS will allow it to catch the flash without the constraints of the traditional flash-sync shutter speed (1/200 for most Canon models, and 1/250 for Nikon).
Its really crazy ..the comments you have from people who have not tried it or did not listen correctly to your directions !!! I had seen your video about 4 years ago .I used an old olympus camera and two old sunpak flashes ..in fact for the second I used one of those vintage light triggers to get it to go off with the one on the camera . It worked perfect ..and the olympus is not HSS compatible . since then I did buy HSS flashes and you can not tell the difference ! I will try it with the strobes this summer as per your second video :) Thanks for these great videos . INfact here is the link to the first test shot I had tried with your method... I also had some photographer with a huge ego tell me you can tell the difference ..that HSS would of been more superior ::) oi67.tinypic.com/2w2397s.jpg
+Aperture Shots wow. reading your comments and seeing your pics totally made my day sir. so sorry it took us a while to reply to you. you are totally true and right abt wht u just said up there. thank you sooooo much.
This is a highly unusual and different method of addressing this shutter speed and flash issue. If I am understanding correctly, one needs to use a VERY high shutter speed, one which clears the entire sensor in about the same time as the flash duration. I am thinking this would not work well at about 1/500. Also, some cameras won't allow the shutter to be set faster than 1/200 or 1/250 if there is a flash on the hot shoe. How does one avoid that issue?
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What is the trick? To use flash as trigger and an off-camera flash that both support High Speed Sync? This is not trick. This is something "by the book" and also expensive (HSS flashes are not cheap). Trick would be to present an alternative to the regular ways for HSS that would save us money.
Actually, the trick is to get the camera to capture *more* light on the frame than when using HSS. HSS typically costs you 2-3.5 stops of light. This trick loses a lot less when shutter speeds exceed your max sync speed.
Jerry P.H. Jerry, you TRULY nailed it. Looks like you truly understand the difference between slit-flashing and sensor-flooding. We have used this method even with normal NONE HSS light and even those big huge Elinchrome lights... THIS TRICK,.. WORK :) THank you, Jerry for dropping by. Always happy to see viewers who understand how things work before they unload their loud- mouthed comments. THANK YOU for that, sir :) - Andrew Boey
hahahaha :) i feel i'm missing something :) so no need to set the complicated TTL thing! just use the highest power and it will work? another question please, i always people talk about sync speed when using flashes, how about studio strobes they don't do the same problem? Thank you
Thank you.... and sorry about the kung fu part... it was just to help viewers 'remember' key parts of the video (which is 'full power' = longer punch). I hope you have fun trying it and thank you so much for your subscription :)
Great video.You can also use full power, long flash duration with studio strobes and get the same high speed sync result. I can shoot at 4000 6000 even 8000 of a second with my photogenic power light studio strobes. Using my Nikon D3x my sb-800 and two pocket wizards. You attach one PocketWizard to the photogenic power light the other PocketWizard to the sb-800 mounted on your camera. Set the camera to high speed sync set the SB 800 flash to manual at 1/128, use a handheld meter to establish an aperture and then shoot at any sync speed you want.
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Hello again, i have a nikon... can you do HSS with one SB flash? Have you ever used a third party flash like vivitar for HSS? is HSS necessary for portrait shots?
He clearly does not understand (and possibly you as well) how High Speed Sync works.Trying to offset the delay of a flash in hopes that one of the shutter curtains does not get seen is not HSS. Visit my channel and watch the video on Understanding Flash Exposure and I have a segment in the video demonstrating how HSS works.
My apologies, I am not trying to seem mean. But many do not understand how HSS works. Most think its just shooting flash faster, and that is wrong. When a flash shoots in HSS, it will actually flash many many times very very fast while both the first and 2nd shutter curtains are moving down the sensor. Ensuring even illumination across the frame. So his little trick is just straight up bad advice from someone who clearly just does not understand how HSS works.. So I am not trying to look like a jerk. I am just pointing out the facts..
Perhaps it is you that doesn't understand what he is doing. He is not using HSS. Watch the video and listen to his explanation. He is setting the flash to full power manual and the camera to TTL matrix metering. The flash at full power burns for the whole duration of the curtain movement and the TTL metering system will see the flash and expose acordingly" the high shutter speed in this type of picture is actually essential to prevent the frame being overpowered by the flash on full power. There is no "Sync" of the rear curtain as you describe. HSS has a limitted shutter speed range slightly above the normal 60 or 125 and requires a modern flash that can do rapid minute flashes. this method simply requires a manual full power flash with a long burn time
I use nikon sb700 to broke speed sync with my nikon d7200 i make the fp320 and make a speed light at remote mode with su4 but when i shhot uo to 1/320 its black
i just tried it with my nissin di 622 mark ii with my canon 60D and it works but sometimes the shutter speed is back to 1/250. is there any solution for this?
How can you bet the sync speed . When my camera starts to close at 1/200sec how can ya bet that ? I have watched ya videos but don't understand it . I have a 5d3 and 430ex2
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Sir I have a one requst , Sir I'm using YN560iv (tow flash) both are same. I am using 5D mark iii. I can't take a picture on HSS mode. what is the setting Camera and flash to create HSS ?
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I'm seeing alot of negative comments. The guy takes the time to try and teach you something that actually works (with the correct setup per your equipment) and you throw around insults.
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Oh my God, this is genius, I just recently found your channel I'm a professional photographer Naples Florida and I am blown away with the unique techniques that you are sharing thank you very very much. Let me know if you ever going to be in the Naples Florida area I would love to have lunch at nowhere at 10 point of your classes
Awwwww u r so sweet 🍬🍭, we're blushing. Coming from a fellow professional photographer, that means a lot to us 🤭. I thank youuu on behalf of Andrew Boey n Team ❤️. Maybe after Covid19 has passed, I'm sure Andrew would love to have lunch with u in Naples, Florida, or maybe u n Andrew can have lunch here in Malaysia 😉. Hi this is Rin Othmani, Channel Admin. We have a special price offer on Premium Courses at only USD25/year, from now until April 30th. Don't miss out on that special offer n sign-up here beyondphotography.com.my/product_main.asp?ProductName=Premium+Courses ... Now that is worth more than 10 points 😅. For more e-learnings visit us at www.beyond.photos or beyondphotography.com.my/courses.asp?Course=elearning ... So glad you've found us, cos we are more than happy to have u here. Stay home, stay safe n keep learning 😁. Much ♡♡♡ from all of us in Malaysia 🇲🇾.
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Hi Andrew, I am a big fan of your photography tutorials, these are really helpful in gaining my photography knowledge. I have a question here, am using a remote trigger: JJC 'JF-U2 433Mhz Flash Trigger on Canon 70D and Yongnuo YN565-EX-II. Is there any way to remove the curtain problem from photos? I have tried 1st, 2nd curtain, and HSS but either black/washed out curtain is showing on photos! Please guide. Is this trick doesn't work on radio triggers? if not can we use the pop-up camera flash to archive this?
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thanks Andrew, works as stated with a Nikon SB900 on my D3 and the Yongnuo 560 Mark III. Burns thru batteries like crazy cos of the need to use 1/1 flash power though.
+dainslaif88 True.... but you can now get more realistic pics because background can remain blurry. Sharp background makes subjects LOOK like Godzilla size!
does this work On canon DSLR cameras ? After reading the comments, looks like there are more things to do other than just putting flash power to full power ;-)
Hi I was looking for some information and bumped into your video, great stuff. just subscribed.. I have a question, hope its not a foolish one :).. I have a nikon D-80 and as Nikon SB-22Ss (old one) flash light I tried to put it to full power on the camera but could not get to go beyond 200 shutter. Do I have to get another flash or is it possible with this one. or still I have to get two flashes ? Thank You.
i am a beginner so that i cant really understand...can u pls teach me how can i set up on my canon 600D my flash is Di866 ang yongnuo 568II i hope that you can help me
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That didn't work at all on my end... You should talk about the curtain effect. However, i got the same exact result using the 160 at full power. Maybe it's the camera I don't know... Time for an A7iii I guess
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I have a d7200 and I can't change the shutter speed above 1/250 of a second . and it has an x by the number.[ X 1/250 ] it won't go any higher than 1/250th. but it will go lower. the only flash is the built-in flash. How can I get it to fire faster than 1/250th
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Detroit Dan, u can go to the Main Menu and look for something called 'Flash Sync Speed' and set it to 1/320**, and you cannot use the camera's pop up flash for this, u need to have a SB flash set on your camera, Dan.
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Andrew Boey, dude you saved me a crap load of money, thanks. I can't believe I never thought of this before. This is good enough to let me turn day to night. I can now overpower the noonday sun with one speedlight and sync multiple lights with no need for triggers and receiver, brilliant, just brilliant. This has proven to be really fantastic, thank you so much for sharing.
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Best free lunch ever, RIGHT?
This is actually pretty interesting. Yes, if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter) and yes, this eats LOTS of battery power but it's great to have another trick up your sleeve because you never know what's going to happen tomorrow and as a professional photographer it is your responsibility to make things work.
You said: "if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter)"
But the fact is, you have to have a flash that supports HSS to do this "trick" anyway, otherwise your camera will never let you select a shutter speed of 1/5000 with the flash attached.
Quick ? what do you recommend if you are in bright sunlight. You didn't mention that if you are using filters. Can you explain this in your syn method. Enjoyed the info keep up good work
Holy crap, I can’t believe this actually works! I’m gonna go back and review this a half a dozen times just to believe what I’m seeing. These flashes don’t come cheap but they’re far less expensive than a megawatt high speed sync ProFoto strobe system.
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Glad to know that sir :) thank youuuu
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You can also achieve the same effect-using an - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral
Density Filter if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you
would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral
Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but
significantly less depth of field.
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Hi, everyone :)
To make this work here's what you need to do:
1. Flash on lightstand: Remote on SU4 at 1/1 power
2. Flash on camera: 1/1 Full power (on Manual mode, NOT TTL)
3. Camera on MANUAL exposure mode (M)
4. F number on camera: as low as you like
5. ISO: 100 to 200 is good
6. Shutter Speed: 1/thousands so that the photo does not over exposed (I normally meter to -2 on Matrix)
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Thank you so much! ❤ Always fun to learn from you
But for those who like to know WHY this works: You flash in full power should be longer, or same that your cameras fastest mechanical speed=sync-speed. So, if your camears sync is 1/250s, your flash have to keep the light on that time, even if you camera is setted to 1/4000s, as this is just a narrow curtain travellin over the "film-port" on sync-speed. In short, you have to have "slow flash" and that is what you can check from your flash manual, what is the flash-time on full blast.
Hey thanks allot for this! I have a d5100 Nikon body, and Yongnuo 568ex flash.This is a great little camera but has no HSS. So this work around is exactly what I was looking for!
does high speed sync applies on any camera? i mean i have d5600 and i can't surpass the shutter speed of 200 when my flash is on.
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Very confusing. With SB 900 and hss activated, you can go up to 1/8000 and TTL easily. Why do you have to set on full power.
In the clip you did not explain the mode used for the sb900. TTL remode HSS or SU4 manual
Waiting for urs answer
I only watched the first few minutes. My flash is broken now, I Bruce Lee'd my speedlight.
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if you don't want to stop down the aperture for DSLRs with no HSS like the nikon D3000 series just use an ND filter and shoot below the sync speed. The flash will illuminate the subject whilst keeping the background properly exposed.
Nice trick Andriew Boey !. It's a kind of Super Sync with speedy lights. It can provide a bit more flash to subject distance range than HSS alone. But it needs HSS between on camera flash and remote flash, and the last one must be at full power. Really nice !. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.
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Hi Andrew,
Thanks for these great videos that you have provided about breaking the Sync speed.
Is there a way to calculate the Key light to subject distance using this method or is it just trial and error ?
Thanks for your help.
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You're a GENIUS. Thank you for sharing this with us. I'm using Sony cameras, and I finally got this to work. I have have a Nissin i60A and two off-brand Photoolex M500 flashes as well as the Nissin Air 1 Commander.
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What if you use remotes, will this work the same?
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wooooooow nice, you can high speed without high speed :) is it possible? can I do the same on my Nikon D5200 ?
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So, all the flashes need to be set to full power? What setting needs to be set within the camera?
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Thanks for the video - my question is how do you get the flash exposure correct with this method, since you're setting the flash at full power and the aperture wide open? Do you experiment with the flash distance to the model? Also, what is the reason the controller flash has to also be on full power? Thanks! I love your videos!
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@@missfarah4700 Wrong ansver...
I may of missed it, do we have to make any changes in the camera to use the HSS? or just manual, change shutter and other settings then follow directions for the speed lights? Great Video, very informative
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Very informatine yes, and not at all of that hss you are talking.
You rock especially with your Kun fu skills. Well explained. Thanks man!
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Andrew, can I break the high speed sync barrier with the Nikon D7100???, thanks.
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Hello, a very interesting episode, but in Canon when I put a lamp on the camera, which does not have HSS, it automatically sets up the synchronization time to 1 / 250s. what to do in this case?
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Cry
Just kidding. I use a godox X trigger and set it together with my camera with HSS in group A. But there's no flash receiving this signal, only another flash trigger on top of that one, triggering my external flash with its dumb signal that is not smart enough to be detected by the stubborn bossy camera who doesn't know its place.
That is the problem on many cameras, if they do not support high speed flash.
Can you explain it a bit more. How did you make the flashes burst.......? And if your are on full power on the camera mounted flash how did you manage to do HSS? I did'n get that bit at all.
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Hey brother, you are amazing. I was wondering if you have any experience with fujifilm cameras?
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You can also achieve the same effect-using your normal sync shutter speed and a - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter if you set your flash exposure to F/5.6 you would then set your aperture to F/1.4 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but significantly less depth of field.?
This is funniest tutorial I've ever seen!
Brandon Rudich why? Is it not possible?
This guy is maybe the best around...
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So to be clear, the flash that was firing at the model behind the umbrella was in manual mode as well and was on which mode?? Receiver mode waiting to "see the light" from the flash on the camera in IR triggered mode? or what exactly? thanks
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Hi I just bought my first speedlite,
so what should I put my Speedlite on for top power for my Yongnuo YN 565EX .
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1/1
Does this mean that we can only use this method using 2 or more flashes? And single on-camera flash alone will not poduce the same background-blur output?
Have u ever wondered,
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Awesome. thats working whith nikon sb900+canon580+falcon ayes)
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Hello can i do that with my sony a6000 using SB 900 and SB700 and one more Sony flash to trigge at hight speed ?
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I fucking love this guy! HE IS SO FUCKING AWESOME!
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Hi there
I really like what you have shown in the Video . But still i m confused could u clear me on this
will this work on Nikon d5100 and With any flash that supports Slave mode ?? Do i need to put the flash on camera or i can on cmaera built flash to trigger the other flash ?
Thanks:-
For blurring the background in daylight using larger apertures like 1.4-2.8, I would use a variable ND filter for around $30. By stepping down 5 stops you can bring the shutter speed from 1/8000 down to 1/250. Am I missing something?
Yaghoub Soltanpour that's true but you need to increase the flash power very high cause the ND filter will cut alot from the flash power
I intend to use one speedlight for portraits.If I got this right the key is just to raise the power of the flash to full?And of course raise the shutter speed above 1/200th or 1/250th.Is that right?
Thank you!!Regards!
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Wow thanks 💞💞
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@@farahn63 ❤
Can this work if you are shooting inside for a head shot?
Remember you never told them how to enable hss on their flash, maybe thats where this tut should have started!
Why, as this is not of that at all. As you now, 10 years later know...
hi, another beginner question - i have Nikon d3300 and two speedlights: TRIOPO TR 560EX and cheeper VILTROX JY680A;
should i make all this tricks shown in the video above?
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Man I have King Fu knowledge now!! Heck yeah brother. Thanks..
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I have a question. If we use radio controlled flash commanders and receivers, do you still have to have flashes set to full power?
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Love your style of Teaching..great videos Thanks
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Will this work with only one flash, where it is a hot shoe flash on the camera set to full power?
you save my life thank you master :)
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I have a D5600 and an SB600. What else would i need to make this work? Also, with the flash on the hotshoe my shutter speed stays at 1/200. Am i missing something?
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love the kung fu bit :D great video!
why THANK YOU :) hope you have subscribed :)
The kung fu is surely one of a kind 😂😂😂
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what speedlight unit did u use?
which speedlight units do you recommend to get this efect on canon?
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A bit of misunderstanding and misinformation on how this really works.
The on camera flash does NOT need to be on full power (but it may be needed to trigger the remote flash if the remote flash sensor is pointed in the wrong direction and/or it is very bright). It is there SIMPLY to fool the camera into using the different internal flash timing settings from HSS on flashes which are set to *not* use HSS. The Matrix metering mode on the camera is also not mandatory, TTL is not being used, so since you are using manual flash, it doesn't matter what the camera "sees", you decide how your background and foreground appear via ISO, aperture, shutter speed and flash.
Back in April, 2012, I describe this in detail here on Yourtube, do a search for "High Speed Hack Trick". :)
Today, we use high end triggers like the PW ControlTL units that take advantage of this technology and call it HyperSync. They also add adjustability to maximize the power output to the flash to shutter timing event and a ton more features. It is also possible to do with other basic triggers like the Plus II, but the triggers have to be fairly quick, not all triggers will work properly. We also use studio strobes so that even more power can be output and we can start to easily overpower the sun without needing tools like ND filters that can introduce artifacts into the shot.
There are many ways to accomplish similar effects, and it makes a great tool for photographers that like to shoot outside.
Thank-you for your video!
can this work with a sony camera? or do i need the auto fp setting?
Why not try it and see? The test takes like 5 minutes of your time. :)
Jerry P.H. I've tried and I don't know what the key step is that I am missing. I've watched your video before his as well, and to be honest, there were a lot of steps that confused me.
I can not find quick and simple instructions anywhere :/ lol
Jerry P.H. Is it that ONE flash MUST have hss?
Ryan Garcia When you looked at my video of the High Speed Hack Trick (here at TH-cam under the JerryPHcom name), what part confused you? And to answer your question, yes, you need a flash that can use HSS, not to use HSS, but to fool the camera into using the HSS timing tables so that you can get properly lit frames. Best way is to use wireless triggers. The cheap ones won't work well, but something like PocketWizards and other faster triggers will work. Again, the on camera flash HAS to be TTL/HSS compatible. Does it 100% work on your camera? I have no way to know, I am a Nikon person.
Is it possible to trigger a speedlight with the pop up flash in a sunny day?
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nice video you just got another subscriber... keep up the good work
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Can you just put a ND filter on the lens to slow down the shutter speed?
when you put the hat on i nearly lost it LMAO
hahahahahaha! me too! every single time, eh??!! hahahahahaha. Thanks for dropping by here :)
Andrew Boey I was laughing so hard. I had to watch the movie again. These video's are really nice to watch.
hahahaha! thank you, glad that i manage to cheer you up :)
I tried this many times with my canon 60D and my Digitek DFL-200T-11057KV(C) and DIGITEk DFL-003 but it didnt work at all .. I got VISICO 5 ttl wireless flash with my wireless trigger i pointed to the flash same as u did in the video .. both the method didnt work at all ... any input or suggestion for me please .. THANK Q in advance Andrew Boey .. U r the only one who teach the best to find on the internet ..
you HAVE to have a camera with HHS or Auto-FP (Nikon)... this "little" bit of info was left OUT of this video for some funny reason..... there is NO WAY to effectively bypass ones shutter sync speed WITHOUT a Higher level cannon or Nikon DSLR using HSS (Cannon) or Auto-FP (Nikon)
Thank you thank you thank you. I appreciate this guy's demonstration, but that's the whole damn point of having that option on cameras to begin with.
Where exactly is the hack again? Not asking you.
sorry but you are wrong..there is a way
I think this is HyperSync, not High Speed Sync. That's why the power has to be at full power. If it were HSS, then you could use other power levels.
If you have a flash lying around, it's worth trying.
What is *CANNON?*
I think he was useing a nikon D7000
Thank you Andrew for the helpful tutorial! Good luck man!
I subscribed after the word KUNGFU!!!!
Joey Bumbum hahahaha! good one there, sir!
the stupid shouting made me unsubscribe
It's pouring with rain here in the UK,Im just about to go to work,& I'm just watching some TH-cam clips before I go.This has made my day! The Kung Fu humour was hilarious,but did get the point across! Thank you for making my day brighter AND this great tip!
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Liu Kang wins
Hi andrew , do we need a HSS flash as the trigger ? I think you didnt mention what type of flash do we need as the triger, you just said in Manual and full powe.. I used a sony a7, and i need a hss for my outdoor shooting because the sun is very bright in Bali which where i live.. Thank you for your attention, terima kasih
+ocky misa For this method, set the camera to HSS (or Auto-FP for Nikon), then set your on-camera flash to manual at full power and your off-camera flash to slave mode on full power. When the flash on your camera goes off, it will trigger the 2nd flash, giving you the light you need. Setting the camera to HSS will allow it to catch the flash without the constraints of the traditional flash-sync shutter speed (1/200 for most Canon models, and 1/250 for Nikon).
There's no trick here, he's just using an HSS flash. :)
no trick eh?
then watch the other video which Sync was broken with normal legacy studio flashes... u will like it, trust me :)
Its really crazy ..the comments you have from people who have not tried it or did not listen correctly to your directions !!!
I had seen your video about 4 years ago .I used an old olympus camera and two old sunpak flashes ..in fact for the second I used one of those vintage light triggers to get it to go off with the one on the camera . It worked perfect ..and the olympus is not HSS compatible . since then I did buy HSS flashes and you can not tell the difference ! I will try it with the strobes this summer as per your second video :) Thanks for these great videos . INfact here is the link to the first test shot I had tried with your method... I also had some photographer with a huge ego tell me you can tell the difference ..that HSS would of been more superior ::) oi67.tinypic.com/2w2397s.jpg
+Aperture Shots wow. reading your comments and seeing your pics totally made my day sir. so sorry it took us a while to reply to you. you are totally true and right abt wht u just said up there. thank you sooooo much.
i did it and both flashes were vintage and NOT Hss flashes
Keep making them ! Many of us appreciate your knowledge ! I thank you greatly !
This is a highly unusual and different method of addressing this shutter speed and flash issue. If I am understanding correctly, one needs to use a VERY high shutter speed, one which clears the entire sensor in about the same time as the flash duration. I am thinking this would not work well at about 1/500. Also, some cameras won't allow the shutter to be set faster than 1/200 or 1/250 if there is a flash on the hot shoe. How does one avoid that issue?
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What is the trick?
To use flash as trigger and an off-camera flash that both support High Speed Sync? This is not trick. This is something "by the book" and also expensive (HSS flashes are not cheap).
Trick would be to present an alternative to the regular ways for HSS that would save us money.
NEEWER® NW680/TT680 Speedlite Flash E TTL about 50€ on Amazon...
Actually, it is a bit of a trick. Using HSS, you lose anywhere from 2 to 3.5 stops of light compared to using this "trick".
The off-camera flash does not need to be high speed sync to work, that is the trick.
Actually, the trick is to get the camera to capture *more* light on the frame than when using HSS. HSS typically costs you 2-3.5 stops of light. This trick loses a lot less when shutter speeds exceed your max sync speed.
Jerry P.H.
Jerry, you TRULY nailed it. Looks like you truly understand the difference between slit-flashing and sensor-flooding. We have used this method even with normal NONE HSS light and even those big huge Elinchrome lights... THIS TRICK,.. WORK :) THank you, Jerry for dropping by. Always happy to see viewers who understand how things work before they unload their loud-
mouthed comments. THANK YOU for that, sir :) - Andrew Boey
Please correct me if I'm wrong:
No matter how long your flash duration is you won't get this result in speeds
was the kung fu necessary?
Of course! :)
hahahaha :) i feel i'm missing something :)
so no need to set the complicated TTL thing! just use the highest power and it will work?
another question please, i always people talk about sync speed when using flashes, how about studio strobes they don't do the same problem?
Thank you
of course! Now you know why we need the KUNG FU part? Yes... no TTL :) Full power it is :)
Thank you very much I'm a subscriber now...thank you for your tutorials
Thank you.... and sorry about the kung fu part... it was just to help viewers 'remember' key parts of the video (which is 'full power' = longer punch). I hope you have fun trying it and thank you so much for your subscription :)
Great video.You can also use full power, long flash duration with studio strobes and get the same high speed sync result. I can shoot at 4000 6000 even 8000 of a second with my photogenic power light studio strobes. Using my Nikon D3x my sb-800 and two pocket wizards. You attach one PocketWizard to the photogenic power light the other PocketWizard to the sb-800 mounted on your camera. Set the camera to high speed sync set the SB 800 flash to manual at 1/128, use a handheld meter to establish an aperture and then shoot at any sync speed you want.
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You neglect to mention that you need a flash capable of HSS.
No, not needed, but camera cabable that you need. Othervise you camera is turning itself to sync-speed.
Hello again, i have a nikon... can you do HSS with one SB flash? Have you ever used a third party flash like vivitar for HSS? is HSS necessary for portrait shots?
Just go buy some quality 3 to 6 stop ND filters or a flash that supports HSS.. No need to over complicate things..
Joe, I don't think he is over complicating things, he is just showing a different way of achieving HSS, and Bruce Lee was a nice touch!
He clearly does not understand (and possibly you as well) how High Speed Sync works.Trying to offset the delay of a flash in hopes that one of the shutter curtains does not get seen is not HSS. Visit my channel and watch the video on Understanding Flash Exposure and I have a segment in the video demonstrating how HSS works.
Chill out Joe! Don't be mean.
My apologies, I am not trying to seem mean. But many do not understand how HSS works. Most think its just shooting flash faster, and that is wrong. When a flash shoots in HSS, it will actually flash many many times very very fast while both the first and 2nd shutter curtains are moving down the sensor. Ensuring even illumination across the frame. So his little trick is just straight up bad advice from someone who clearly just does not understand how HSS works.. So I am not trying to look like a jerk. I am just pointing out the facts..
Perhaps it is you that doesn't understand what he is doing. He is not using HSS. Watch the video and listen to his explanation. He is setting the flash to full power manual and the camera to TTL matrix metering. The flash at full power burns for the whole duration of the curtain movement and the TTL metering system will see the flash and expose acordingly" the high shutter speed in this type of picture is actually essential to prevent the frame being overpowered by the flash on full power.
There is no "Sync" of the rear curtain as you describe. HSS has a limitted shutter speed range slightly above the normal 60 or 125 and requires a modern flash that can do rapid minute flashes. this method simply requires a manual full power flash with a long burn time
sir if i take a photo on full power of flash 1/1 then any problem occur to my flashgun please guide thank you
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is your on camera flash used to trigger the remote flash is that why your on camera flash is pointing to the remote flash?
thank you
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I use nikon sb700 to broke speed sync with my nikon d7200 i make the fp320 and make a speed light at remote mode with su4 but when i shhot uo to 1/320 its black
i just tried it with my nissin di 622 mark ii with my canon 60D and it works but sometimes the shutter speed is back to 1/250. is there any solution for this?
How can you bet the sync speed . When my camera starts to close at 1/200sec how can ya bet that ? I have watched ya videos but don't understand it . I have a 5d3 and 430ex2
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I see you have or using a Nikon do you like Nikon, I have a Nikon d7100 and because of you I am enjoying using my d7100 so thank you
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¿es posible realizar esto con una cámara Nikon D5500 y un speed ligth sb-800?
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Does your method freeze motion? can you plz make a vid shooting a fan and freeze it?
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dude you are awesome! Will this work on strobes and flash combination?
Yes. It will!! Look for my 2nd video on this, sir
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Sir I have a one requst , Sir I'm using YN560iv (tow flash) both are same. I am using 5D mark iii. I can't take a picture on HSS mode. what is the setting Camera and flash to create HSS ?
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Sir does your camera set to manual mode?
How do you increase shutter speed though?
My camera doesn't go higher than 1/200 (manual mode). D5300
Have u ever wondered,
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so does this mean you need three off cam flash to break the sync???
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I'm seeing alot of negative comments. The guy takes the time to try and teach you something that actually works (with the correct setup per your equipment) and you throw around insults.
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What if a camera e.g. Nikon D5500 does not have HSS at all? I've tried your method, the pictures come out completely black over 1/200...:(
Yes same way I tried on D3300
Oh my God, this is genius, I just recently found your channel I'm a professional photographer Naples Florida and I am blown away with the unique techniques that you are sharing thank you very very much. Let me know if you ever going to be in the Naples Florida area I would love to have lunch at nowhere at 10 point of your classes
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Was wondering if I can use a screen shot of your video in a video about sync speed. Thanks
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Hi Andrew, I am a big fan of your photography tutorials, these are really helpful in gaining my photography knowledge.
I have a question here, am using a remote trigger: JJC 'JF-U2 433Mhz Flash Trigger on Canon 70D and Yongnuo YN565-EX-II. Is there any way to remove the curtain problem from photos? I have tried 1st, 2nd curtain, and HSS but either black/washed out curtain is showing on photos! Please guide. Is this trick doesn't work on radio triggers? if not can we use the pop-up camera flash to archive this?
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thanks Andrew, works as stated with a Nikon SB900 on my D3 and the Yongnuo 560 Mark III. Burns thru batteries like crazy cos of the need to use 1/1 flash power though.
+dainslaif88 True.... but you can now get more realistic pics because background can remain blurry. Sharp background makes subjects LOOK like Godzilla size!
This trick works with nikon d3300 ??? This trick work with any camera or witch cameras works .... !!! Thanks
does this work On canon DSLR cameras ? After reading the comments, looks like there are more things to do other than just putting flash power to full power ;-)
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Hi I was looking for some information and bumped into your video, great stuff. just subscribed.. I have a question, hope its not a foolish one :).. I have a nikon D-80 and as Nikon SB-22Ss (old one) flash light I tried to put it to full power on the camera but could not get to go beyond 200 shutter. Do I have to get another flash or is it possible with this one. or still I have to get two flashes ? Thank You.
Get another camera. With high speed sync capability.
i am a beginner so that i cant really understand...can u pls teach me how can i set up on my canon 600D my flash is Di866 ang yongnuo 568II i hope that you can help me
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That didn't work at all on my end... You should talk about the curtain effect. However, i got the same exact result using the 160 at full power. Maybe it's the camera I don't know... Time for an A7iii I guess
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I have a d7200 and I can't change the shutter speed above 1/250 of a second . and it has an x by the number.[ X 1/250 ] it won't go any higher than 1/250th. but it will go lower. the only flash is the built-in flash. How can I get it to fire faster than 1/250th
Built in flash won't go higher..I tested..you have buy some external flash
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What Nikon did you use to shoot with, i tried it with my D200 and it did not work!
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Does it work with the camera which doesn't support hss?
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i think its just to make sure that the light from the on camera flash will trigger the IR in the off camera flashes
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Detroit Dan, u can go to the Main Menu and look for something called 'Flash Sync Speed' and set it to 1/320**, and you cannot use the camera's pop up flash for this, u need to have a SB flash set on your camera, Dan.
can you do this with a non hss speedlight?
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