Parts list & Job checklist below... Skimmer bonding kit amzn.to/3p2wUWj Grounding bridge amzn.to/3Cm8f20 Pool bonding C Lugs amzn.to/3qFg14F Pool bonding split bolt bugs amzn.to/43z6wCx Pool Bonding wire amzn.to/43TdP7P Pool Pump Timer amzn.to/46aPTii thhn wire amzn.to/43B7nCw 20 amp gfci outlet amzn.to/3oYDb5n twist lock single receptacle amzn.to/43ypIAc Bubble covers amzn.to/3qJ5wNo Outdoor weatherproof outlet boxes amzn.to/3JcDsZf 1/2” Carflex and carflex connectors amzn.to/3p3w2ki 20 amp gfci breaker - The gfci breakers are panel manufacturer specific. That's what I used, but you have to match it to your panel. If you don't know which one you have, you can match it up to the picture. Square D amzn.to/3N24hQZ Culter Hammer amzn.to/3X5nJ3P ITE / Siemens amzn.to/3CmtWz7 **** Home Depot, Lowe's or hardware store... 1/2" inch PVC electrical pipe site tubes - short pieces of pipe. As long as they can get their tape measure down or Peak down with a flashlight. 27" square permit-post (pressure treated, 4 x 4) As an Amazon affiliate I earn a small commision from qualifying purchases "Above Ground Pool" Standards 1 Apply for permit. Contact the Dispatcher (or for DIY, do it yourself). You’ll need an over head drawing with measurements and signed invoice if your a company 2 Dig number should be called in and trenching path marked in white marking paint 3 Conduit will be trenched at least 18" deep to the top of the conduit. 4 The pool pump circuit will be dedicated, gfci protected, 20amp and controlled by a timer. 5 Install 27" square permit-post to mount twist lock receptacle, ground fault receptacle and grounding bridge 6 Pool pump receptacle and cord cap shall be 15/20amp twist lock tupe with "bubble cover. " 7 Pool pump receptacle will be 5' from the side wall of the pool. 6' from water level 8 Bonding: The motor and skimmer basket with # 8 solid ground wire. (use bonding kit) 9 Bonding: Install grounding ring 4" depth and 4 points of contact on the pool frame. (use direct burial C lugs) 10 Bonding: Metal fences within 10' of the pool must be included in the bonding grid. 11 Permit and underwriters inspection for the electrical requirements. 12 Receptacle for the low voltage light and heater equipment may be no closer than 5' 13 Install 3 site tubes for the inspector to inspect depth of the trench 14 Inform the dispatcher when you are completed for final inspection Also check out the Pool build VERY SATISFYING!!!!! th-cam.com/video/lTt7kVgCwxM/w-d-xo.html And both short and extending cut of the deck build and let me know which one YOU think is more satisfying This is the longer extended cut. th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html This is the Shorter / Faster cut. th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html
The code says all metal parts within around or attached to the pool structure must be bonded. It talks about bonding at a minimum of 4 points of conductive surface but I believe it reads for nonconductive pool shells, the bonding of the 4 points is not be required.
The water bonding is done through the skimmer, the pool pump and the motor / pump or any other equipment is usually done on the equipment, but I do believe some resin pools have a metal wall seam that has to also be bonded. So it really depends from pool to pool whether it's 100% resin (non metal / non conductive) or not.
They’re also supposed to be GFCI protected. I use a GFI breaker in the panel for each of mine, but you could do a GFI breaker for the pool pump and a regular breaker for the convenience outlet as long as the convenience outlet is a GFCI outlet.
A GFCI outlet might be cheaper than a GFCI breaker, but both ways work and are up to code. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions
When you connect the bond wire to the uprights, is that connection above ground and then the wire is ran back underground? Our pool will truly be above ground, not any bit buried so I am trying to figure out if when I bond the uprights, is it acceptable to connect it to the c lug above ground and have the wire immediately back into the ground for burial?
Yes, the only thing that needs to be buried would be the ring around the pool. Everything else connects to that ring, so they’re all connected together as one unit. So it doesn’t really matter the location on the upright as long as it’s on there. Burying the upright wire until it connects to the ring is more just to get it out of the way, that wire doesn’t have any burial requirements, just needs to connected to the upright and then to the ring that is buried
Yes, small hex head sled taping screws. Obviously make sure they’re very short. It only needs to go through that thin metal the uprights are made out of. And make sure it’s screwed in the center or the deepest part of the upright. If you go too close to the outside, you could hit the wall.
Something like this below or you could use the Phillips roundhead type as long as they’re not the real wide ones because it’ll get in the way of the lug. I do have to disclose I get a small percentage through Amazon‘s program if you buy it. They AI monitor the post. Their links are in, but it’s like a but it’s only like a percent or so. You could just go to Depot or Lowe’s or any hardware store.
You’re welcome, good luck with it all and hope everything works out for you. It’s not always easy but with TH-cam in the Internet, it could usually be figured out lol.
How do you bond to the pool wall? Since the liner is already installed on the other side, won't screwing a lug into the wall tear the liner? And.. wont puncturing the wall with a lug screw jeopardize the integrity of the metal wall?
Yes, screwing a lug into the wall will jeopardize the integrity and put a hole in the liner. I’ve never bonded a pool that required the the wall to be separately bonded, but I can try to help you by telling you what I do know about it in the following comments.
The water bonding is done through the skimmer, the pool pump / motor or any other equipment is usually bonded directly on the equipment (usually with a pre-installed lug to connect the wire), but the pool wall, top rails, and uprights (posts) are usually metal. As long as they’re metal and not the resin type, the entire pool structure must be bonded through the 4 points shown at the end of the video. Since all 3 are conductive and connected together, in theory they are all bonded together as one by the 4 points.
But… If you have resin posts and a metal wall, I believe there should be a wall seam on the wall that can and has to be bonded. There are also pools out there that are entirely non-metal / non-conductive, and from what I understand they don’t require any of the pool structure to be bonded since there’s nothing conductive to bond to (other than the water, motor/pumps, and any metal around it).
So it really depends from pool to pool whether it's 100% non metal / non conductive or not. The code says all metal parts within, around, or attached to the pool structure must be bonded, but from what I understand for nonconductive pool shells the bonding of the 4 points is not required. So if there is no conductive surface (uprights, wall, rails, etc) then from what I understand you shouldn’t be required to bond any of the physical pool itself, other than the equipment or any metal stuff around it
Question i am new to this , how much solid number 8 copper wire you think i would need for a 15ft round pool, also as i go around the pool and connect the connectors to the up straight just use a small self tapper screw?
The best way I found to measure it is to just lay a string around your pool where you plan on digging it. You could use a rope or extension cords or anything like that. After it’s done being laid out around the pool, just mark your endpoint and you can make it a straight line and measure it like that.
And yes. Use a small self tapping screw to secure the lug to the upright. Just make sure it’s short enough to not hit the pool wall, obviously, and add extra length of wire to make those connections.
@@BrandonStunts thank you just got all the part I ordered from your link this will be my project for tomorrow, I got some stainless steel 5/8 self screwing screws hopefully everything comes out alright
I’m reading that if the pool has a vinyl liner you don’t need to hit 4 posts. Just one instead Also, drilled through the post would look way better than the flex conduit
I’ve never heard that. I do know if you have a resin pool / posts and rails you only need one point of attachment at the seam of the sidewall. But I’ve never heard it based off the lighter. Because if it’s metal, it has to be bonded and the bonding points are to go out to the rig on at what point of the pool it needs to exit.
And yeah, I agree. Drilling through the post is a cleaner way to do it, but we’ve always done them on jobs at shown in the video. Your way definitely looks better though
Yeah, I can probably help. We have twist lock receptacles and plugs at work. I should be able to grab one tomorrow and make a quick little video explaining how to wire and use them.
@@BrandonStunts that would be awesome man. Your video is definitely helping me a lot already. I just had a pool put in last week and I have to go through all of this to get it inspected. So from what I understand the twist lock outlet gets it’s own circuit with a gfci 20 amp breaker right to the panel? You ran another circuit from breaker to the gfi on the post? I saw you have single runs of wire. Is it not ok to use 12/2 UF in the conduit or should it be how you did it? My next question would be where in the line would the timer be?
Hey man, I haven’t had a chance to do the video yet since work and family has been crazy busy, but I can at least answer your questions in the detail. So at least doesn’t hold you up too much, but hopefully I can make a video showing the panel and in the inside of the basement, as well as the wiring and operation for the twist lock. And I’ll also go over some of this stuff here and try to hit a few other things as well.
Yes, the twist lock outlet gets its own 20 amp circuit breaker. What we call a dedicated line. Basically a circuit that’s dedicated to only that piece of equipment or that specific outlet and nothing else. So no other outlets, devices, or other equipment should be connected to that line.
You are correct! I may have put it in a confusing way, but it’s meant to imply that you need either a GFCI circuit breaker or GFCI outlet? One or the other, not both
Also check out the Pool build VERY SATISFYING!!!!! th-cam.com/video/lTt7kVgCwxM/w-d-xo.html And both short and extending cut of the deck build and let me know which one YOU think is more satisfying This is the longer extended cut. th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html This is the Shorter / Faster cut. th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html
Parts list & Job checklist below...
Skimmer bonding kit
amzn.to/3p2wUWj
Grounding bridge
amzn.to/3Cm8f20
Pool bonding C Lugs
amzn.to/3qFg14F
Pool bonding split bolt bugs
amzn.to/43z6wCx
Pool Bonding wire
amzn.to/43TdP7P
Pool Pump Timer
amzn.to/46aPTii
thhn wire
amzn.to/43B7nCw
20 amp gfci outlet
amzn.to/3oYDb5n
twist lock single receptacle
amzn.to/43ypIAc
Bubble covers
amzn.to/3qJ5wNo
Outdoor weatherproof outlet boxes
amzn.to/3JcDsZf
1/2” Carflex and carflex connectors
amzn.to/3p3w2ki
20 amp gfci breaker - The gfci breakers are panel manufacturer specific. That's what I used, but you have to match it to your panel. If you don't know which one you have, you can match it up to the picture.
Square D amzn.to/3N24hQZ
Culter Hammer amzn.to/3X5nJ3P
ITE / Siemens amzn.to/3CmtWz7
**** Home Depot, Lowe's or hardware store...
1/2" inch PVC electrical pipe
site tubes - short pieces of pipe. As long as they can get their tape measure down or Peak down with a flashlight.
27" square permit-post (pressure treated, 4 x 4)
As an Amazon affiliate I earn a small commision from qualifying purchases
"Above Ground Pool" Standards
1 Apply for permit. Contact the Dispatcher (or for DIY, do it yourself). You’ll need an over head drawing with measurements and signed invoice if your a company
2 Dig number should be called in and trenching path marked in white marking paint
3 Conduit will be trenched at least 18" deep to the top of the conduit.
4 The pool pump circuit will be dedicated, gfci protected, 20amp and controlled by a timer.
5 Install 27" square permit-post to mount twist lock receptacle, ground fault receptacle and grounding bridge
6 Pool pump receptacle and cord cap shall be 15/20amp twist lock tupe with "bubble cover. "
7 Pool pump receptacle will be 5' from the side wall of the pool. 6' from water level
8 Bonding: The motor and skimmer basket with # 8 solid ground wire. (use bonding kit)
9 Bonding: Install grounding ring 4" depth and 4 points of contact on the pool frame. (use direct burial C lugs)
10 Bonding: Metal fences within 10' of the pool must be included in the bonding grid.
11 Permit and underwriters inspection for the electrical requirements.
12 Receptacle for the low voltage light and heater equipment may be no closer than 5'
13 Install 3 site tubes for the inspector to inspect depth of the trench
14 Inform the dispatcher when you are completed for final inspection
Also check out the Pool build VERY SATISFYING!!!!!
th-cam.com/video/lTt7kVgCwxM/w-d-xo.html
And both short and extending cut of the deck build and let me know which one YOU think is more satisfying
This is the longer extended cut.
th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html
This is the Shorter / Faster cut.
th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html
Very good info, thank you!
You’re welcome, happy to help!
What do you bond the wire to if the above ground pool is resin and there are no metal parts on the pool to attach the bonding wire to?
If there is no conductive surface (uprights, wall, bottom rail, etc) then you shouldn’t need to do the uprights or any of the physical pool itself
The code says all metal parts within around or attached to the pool structure must be bonded. It talks about bonding at a minimum of 4 points of conductive surface but I believe it reads for nonconductive pool shells, the bonding of the 4 points is not be required.
The water bonding is done through the skimmer, the pool pump and the motor / pump or any other equipment is usually done on the equipment, but I do believe some resin pools have a metal wall seam that has to also be bonded. So it really depends from pool to pool whether it's 100% resin (non metal / non conductive) or not.
Great thanks for the info
Your welcome! Good luck with it
That video was awesome!!!
Thank you! I think it turned out awesome too, it’s one of my favorite videos I’ve made
Yes well done 👏
Can the convenience receptacle be on the same breaker as the pool pump
Unfortunately, no. They are both supposed to be dedicated lines. Meaning separate breakers / circuits.
They’re also supposed to be GFCI protected. I use a GFI breaker in the panel for each of mine, but you could do a GFI breaker for the pool pump and a regular breaker for the convenience outlet as long as the convenience outlet is a GFCI outlet.
A GFCI outlet might be cheaper than a GFCI breaker, but both ways work and are up to code. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions
Thanks for all the help…promise last question. Do you have to have a convenience receptacle?
Yes you do. A GFCI convenience outlet is required by code no closer than 6 foot to the waters edge, but no further than 20 foot.
When you connect the bond wire to the uprights, is that connection above ground and then the wire is ran back underground? Our pool will truly be above ground, not any bit buried so I am trying to figure out if when I bond the uprights, is it acceptable to connect it to the c lug above ground and have the wire immediately back into the ground for burial?
Yes, the only thing that needs to be buried would be the ring around the pool. Everything else connects to that ring, so they’re all connected together as one unit. So it doesn’t really matter the location on the upright as long as it’s on there. Burying the upright wire until it connects to the ring is more just to get it out of the way, that wire doesn’t have any burial requirements, just needs to connected to the upright and then to the ring that is buried
What did you use to connect the bonding lugs to the uprights? Self tapping screw?
Yes, small hex head sled taping screws. Obviously make sure they’re very short. It only needs to go through that thin metal the uprights are made out of. And make sure it’s screwed in the center or the deepest part of the upright. If you go too close to the outside, you could hit the wall.
Something like this below or you could use the Phillips roundhead type as long as they’re not the real wide ones because it’ll get in the way of the lug. I do have to disclose I get a small percentage through Amazon‘s program if you buy it. They AI monitor the post. Their links are in, but it’s like a but it’s only like a percent or so. You could just go to Depot or Lowe’s or any hardware store.
amzn.to/3KgcvUN
great video thank you
You’re welcome, good luck with it all and hope everything works out for you. It’s not always easy but with TH-cam in the Internet, it could usually be figured out lol.
How do you bond to the pool wall? Since the liner is already installed on the other side, won't screwing a lug into the wall tear the liner? And.. wont puncturing the wall with a lug screw jeopardize the integrity of the metal wall?
Yes, screwing a lug into the wall will jeopardize the integrity and put a hole in the liner. I’ve never bonded a pool that required the the wall to be separately bonded, but I can try to help you by telling you what I do know about it in the following comments.
The water bonding is done through the skimmer, the pool pump / motor or any other equipment is usually bonded directly on the equipment (usually with a pre-installed lug to connect the wire), but the pool wall, top rails, and uprights (posts) are usually metal. As long as they’re metal and not the resin type, the entire pool structure must be bonded through the 4 points shown at the end of the video. Since all 3 are conductive and connected together, in theory they are all bonded together as one by the 4 points.
But… If you have resin posts and a metal wall, I believe there should be a wall seam on the wall that can and has to be bonded. There are also pools out there that are entirely non-metal / non-conductive, and from what I understand they don’t require any of the pool structure to be bonded since there’s nothing conductive to bond to (other than the water, motor/pumps, and any metal around it).
So it really depends from pool to pool whether it's 100% non metal / non conductive or not. The code says all metal parts within, around, or attached to the pool structure must be bonded, but from what I understand for nonconductive pool shells the bonding of the 4 points is not required. So if there is no conductive surface (uprights, wall, rails, etc) then from what I understand you shouldn’t be required to bond any of the physical pool itself, other than the equipment or any metal stuff around it
Question i am new to this , how much solid number 8 copper wire you think i would need for a 15ft round pool, also as i go around the pool and connect the connectors to the up straight just use a small self tapper screw?
The best way I found to measure it is to just lay a string around your pool where you plan on digging it. You could use a rope or extension cords or anything like that. After it’s done being laid out around the pool, just mark your endpoint and you can make it a straight line and measure it like that.
And yes. Use a small self tapping screw to secure the lug to the upright. Just make sure it’s short enough to not hit the pool wall, obviously, and add extra length of wire to make those connections.
Thank you for the tips
You’re welcome, good luck with it
@@BrandonStunts thank you just got all the part I ordered from your link this will be my project for tomorrow, I got some stainless steel 5/8 self screwing screws hopefully everything comes out alright
I’m reading that if the pool has a vinyl liner you don’t need to hit 4 posts. Just one instead
Also, drilled through the post would look way better than the flex conduit
I’ve never heard that. I do know if you have a resin pool / posts and rails you only need one point of attachment at the seam of the sidewall. But I’ve never heard it based off the lighter. Because if it’s metal, it has to be bonded and the bonding points are to go out to the rig on at what point of the pool it needs to exit.
And yeah, I agree. Drilling through the post is a cleaner way to do it, but we’ve always done them on jobs at shown in the video. Your way definitely looks better though
I can’t find anywhere on how to use a twist lock receptacle or wire it up. Can you help please
Yeah, I can probably help. We have twist lock receptacles and plugs at work. I should be able to grab one tomorrow and make a quick little video explaining how to wire and use them.
I can show real quick how they work and get wired, but let me know if you have any more specific questions and I’ll do my best to answer it
@@BrandonStunts that would be awesome man. Your video is definitely helping me a lot already. I just had a pool put in last week and I have to go through all of this to get it inspected.
So from what I understand the twist lock outlet gets it’s own circuit with a gfci 20 amp breaker right to the panel?
You ran another circuit from breaker to the gfi on the post?
I saw you have single runs of wire. Is it not ok to use 12/2 UF in the conduit or should it be how you did it?
My next question would be where in the line would the timer be?
Hey man, I haven’t had a chance to do the video yet since work and family has been crazy busy, but I can at least answer your questions in the detail. So at least doesn’t hold you up too much, but hopefully I can make a video showing the panel and in the inside of the basement, as well as the wiring and operation for the twist lock. And I’ll also go over some of this stuff here and try to hit a few other things as well.
Yes, the twist lock outlet gets its own 20 amp circuit breaker. What we call a dedicated line. Basically a circuit that’s dedicated to only that piece of equipment or that specific outlet and nothing else. So no other outlets, devices, or other equipment should be connected to that line.
I thought you don’t need a GFCI Circuit and a GFCI outlet connected together!
You are correct! I may have put it in a confusing way, but it’s meant to imply that you need either a GFCI circuit breaker or GFCI outlet? One or the other, not both
I personally used a GFCI breaker, but your correct, you could also just use a regular breaker along with a GFCI outlet
Also check out the Pool build VERY SATISFYING!!!!!
th-cam.com/video/lTt7kVgCwxM/w-d-xo.html
And both short and extending cut of the deck build and let me know which one YOU think is more satisfying
This is the longer extended cut.
th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html
This is the Shorter / Faster cut.
th-cam.com/video/_a2ukwcQOSE/w-d-xo.html