Hi Tim. Great video. It was doing the classic side slip. For rudder elevator control only, it needed more dihedral. Like you say the original full size had wing warping. So perhaps to keep the scale looks ailerons were required. Hind sight is a wonderful thing but we live and learn. Nice build it looked lovely.
I'm with Mark. When I saw the final photo in the garden, my reaction was "not enough dihedral for a rudder elevator model". It might even be that, with some flexibility in the wing structure, even more dihedral would be required than with a rigid wing.
Don't give up on it if it's not too busted up. It could have been just a gust of wind! I've flown many SIG rc planes and built countless Guillows and learned enough from both that now I'm scratching an 'experimental' 48" Demoiselle with bamboo, ailerons and shock absorbing gear Your videos are inspiring and full of great tips! Thanks!
I've watched several of your video's, very informative. I'm into building foam board planes. I just built a 4ft 6inch wing span trainer and took it for it's maiden about 2 weeks ago. I was shocked how well it flew. I love watching and learning new tips etc. I subscribed. 👍🏻✌🏻
What a gorgeous plane Tim ! You had said that you didn’t bother fixing it. I would just put it on display, and of course maybe not fly it again. They have a plane that flies up at Rhinebeck airdrome here in N.Y , that looks exactly like that. They’re careful with it and just fly about 20 feet off the ground and land it again. I don’t blame them. I go every year to watch all the old planes fly. Cole Palin, did a great job on preserving those planes and after his passing, volunteeres make sure his dream of keeping that old airport alive possible . They also have model airplane flying before the regular planes. After 50 years of building planes , you sure know your stuff ! Oh, say hello to Rudy ! 😊
Great video and interesting perspective on your test flight. I am a private pilot and I was trained to call out 500 feet AGL after takeoff because if there is catastrophic trouble before that almost always the best option is to try and land straight ahead. R/C flying when I was young is what got me interested in becoming a pilot.
I like this channel, I like building small planes, some Electric, some gas. I bought my first guillows model recently, they can be affordable but difficult to get to fly, and now I know why. I’m only building top wing, I have a Cessna 170 , and 150. The 150 is the one I have left. I could tell guillows would be difficult. I’ll keep watching and hopefully i can move on to a Corsair or something.👍
Hello Tim. Great video. From my humble experience I know with rudder elev only it needs dihedral. About 6 degrees would be good. Going even to 7 degrees Dutch roll will happen, possibly. Also you absolutely have to check and correct for straight wings. No wind at all on maiden with such a light plane. Sorry I think I’ve rambled too much. Just a thought.
I have some thoughts on the Sig SantosDumont 21 Demoiselle: Nicely done, but these kits were not really strictly released in the early 2000's. Mine was bought in 2004 and was just starting to being actively talked about in the E-Zone RC model forum. I built this for a friend who I was teaching to fly, and he also had access to a community indoor space large enough to fly slow flying models inside. Originally I had set it up with the GWS IPS "C" drive, I think this is about 9.7:1 gear drive on the stock grey endbell GWS 120 motor. It was, IMO, barely adequate on a 800mAh Lipoly, swinging a 10X8 GWS slowflight propeller. I built this with a better grade of balsa for the fuse framing and details to keep the AUW light, funny considering the new rules, that this model, which is one of my slowest flying, is still an ounce over the FAA weight. Lots of wing area and deeply undercambered, which made it difficult to not tipstall if forced into a climbing turn. I heavily washed out the main wings almost 2.5 degrees from the 4 degree positive AoA. this helped it turn while adding a little up elevator. I made this model with wings that unplugged from tubes and had working flying guy wires, ( unlike the elastic thread included in the kit..) and the derrick like fuselage was also trussed up with working Dacron string reinforcement. So, it would barely climb to 20 feet in about a couple minutes on the "stock" IPS and I considered this too marginal as a model for a new flyer to practice on. He was lucky to have an Ikarus Bleriot slowflyer, which wasn't too patched up, that was a better trainer, also easier to repair. So the problem with power needed a solution, and I had him purchase Balsa Product's new Feigdao GWS IPS replacement brushless motor and a Jeti 04-03 4 amp BL ESC and helped him set this up. The BP motor needed the IPS motor heat-sink (because it ran really hot on test flights at full power..), but suddenly on a 2S, wimpy battery of the time, this model was transformed by the extra power and efficiency of the little brushless into something I would be comfortable having a novice RC pilot fly. The bad issues of this model were the pull-pull tail control "wires" and the complexity of the full flying cruciform tail, and the crappy balsa wheels. I had to build a Kevlar thread reinforced CF tubing universal joint that was the cause of a few rear fuse king posts destruction. Covered it all in old school 00 silkspan and Deft clear varnish, which doesn't shrink like regular dope. This in keeping over 500 square inches of wing area from heat warping in the sun. In hind sight this would have been far better with the Balsa Products BP 18Y or star configuration, 24mm outrunner with a 10X4.7 SF prop. Anything around 1.25 to 2 .oz motor weight that could swing a largish enough prop with enough pitchspeed to keep it flying on a 800 to 1200 mAh Lipoly battery. GWS's Pico servos are at their limit swinging the cruciform tail probably better with the 13 gram Nanos. Dead quiet wind conditions only. On your Depredussin: I would suspect that you didn't have enough dihedral, but there's a fine line between too much and not enough with a model that has such a small rudder. You also seem to have been caught in a side wind gust that may have had a bit of a rotor lifting your left wing. Dead calm conditions so you can watch the model respond to gentle control inputs.
Great inputs, thanks!! Talk about a coincidence . . . I test flew my Sig Antoinette just a few hours ago this morning. Antoinette flew well but the exact same thing happened on takeoff . . . the model pulled right and would not turn left. I think the fact I hand launched saved the day as I had a bit more altitude. I noticed the wings flapping around a bit due to the heavier weight. Somehow I decided to reduce throttle and airspeed. This allowed for no more wing flex and I could turn left without an issue. Antoinette video will be out July 28th! Tim
Hi Tim, reading the other comments I would agree with slightly more dihedral, personally I would have liked a little more rudder throw as well ... better to have too much? The biggest mistake I could see though was the lack of a pilot 😉 Great summing up as well, good advice, cheers.
I'm 2 years back in. Building is so fun. My question is I have built 3 gliders and now a electric balsa plane from old school model. Gliders get a few hand launches, do you ever hand launch a power model? If not, why. Thanks for your help.
@@TimMcKay56 I was totally gutted when I saw your plane ditched to the right hand side.... was it weighted wrong leaning to the right... I know most people balance the centre of gravity for what about left and right balance
@@TimMcKay56 I love what you do and I learnt from your videos... So what do you think might have been the problem with the plane turning like that.. was it the motor position or a balance issues...
I've run into that same problem. Imagine a rod through the plane from nose to tail, and the plane rolls around that center of axes. The rudder sticks up above that axes, it has to in order to keep the plane from flipping over in flight. A plane can't fly without a rudder sticking up. Now, when you applied a lot of left rudder, because the rudder is high above the center axes, it made the plane roll to the right. And the more left rudder you give it, the more the plane tries to roll to the right. I forgot to mention, when you have a plane that is very susceptible to that problem, you must give it a little rudder, slowly.
That is a beautiful build Tim..no doubt about it.. I have a question for you??? Before you put your motor and esc / servos etc.etc.etc did you do a test glide by gently tossing it in the air and see how she flew?? I'm just wondering if it checked out ok?? before you put your motor and esc. equipment?? Reason I ask is I've also been dwn that road were the build went together perfectly ....and after the plane was built I had problems with the plane pitching to the right over n over .it was a WW-I English royal airforce biplane. My tail wing was tweaked towards the right ?? Don't know how it happened? But I took my xacto knife and Cracked? / split the tail surface from the fuse and lightly glued again using my right angle square and triple checked it that it was at a perfect 90 degree angle on both sides and my problem was solved. What baffled me was it wasn't tweaked very much at all?? Couldn't see it at all by looking at it?? It didn't take much at all to make it pitch hard to the right... lesson learned for me . Haha. As always great vid and great looking build Tim......take care.. Ray
Ray: With these early flyers, very minor warps or alignments can have large affects on flight. I did not test glide. Model a bit too heavy fragile for a test glide, best to just take a test flight. Tim
I crash landed my trainer recently just after takeoff, didn’t have enough throws, I was accidentally in low mode. Chopped the throttle, and lost most control due to stall. Thankfully it was only minor repairs due to extremely soft field (after air heavy rain, agricultural land), It’ll fly again! I feel your pain, crashing such a delicate model :(
I LOVE YOUR VIDIOS WAS WANDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME OUT. I BOUGHT A ELDER 40 TOP FLIGHT MODEL AN SOMEONE POPPED THE DITHEDERAL GAGE OUT. NOW NOT SURE OF ANGLE CAN YOU HELP ME TO FIGURE THE ANGLE OUT? THANKS
@@TimMcKay56 are you saying if I lay half of my wing on the flat bench an prop the other end up 1.5 then square center rib up I will have it? Do this with both wings
Hi Tim , just a question please, on a model twin motor model, why should the motors run opposite directions , I just can't work out why , thanks again Tim for your videos , from Tony
Tony: It gets complex, and the aerodynamics apply really to light twins such as a Piper Aztec, etc. But for detailed aerodynamics reasons with propeller P-factor, one engine will have more asymmetric throw than the other should the engine fail. With our RC models not really a factor. My advice on a model if you lose an engine: Reduce power to maintain control and land straight ahead. Tim
Hi Tim. You have a video on micro electronics. I mentioned in the comments I was working on sub-250 gram 3D printed planes. I put my first open-source design on Thingiverse (TH-cam deletes the link). It is R/E/T designed around the Lemon Micro Brick with 2 servos. Those are available, but micro motors and speed controllers have been out of stock for several months at HobbyKing. There are a few on Banggood and AliExpress but of unknown quality, and HH small motors are for their power systems. Where do you source your micro motors?
Doug: You are spot on for the situation for the ultra-micro electronics. The entire trade situation with China has impact. For the motors I see what is available at www.StevensAero.com. Bob is a straight shooter via email if questions. Tim
Doug: You are spot on for the situation for the ultra-micro electronics. The entire trade situation with China has impact. For the motors I see what is available at www.StevensAero.com. Bob is a straight shooter via email if questions. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Hi Tim. Thanks for the link. The motors at StevensAero are either too big or too small. I need a 12 gram - 24 gram outrunner. I had trouble with 404 errors at Thinkaverse so I moved the plane to Cults 3D, 'Sub-250 Gram 50" RC Glider, G250', If you want to have a look. I started with 50" but I have other size wings in the works. Old school sticks and ribs construction for light planes is superior to 3D printing. The only advantages are not having to sit over a plan putting in T pins for hours and it's easy to change airfoils and shapes. I stumbled onto printing wing frames from leading edge up by designing small two-piece props which are also hard to get now. Longer wing sections can be made diagonally on the printer and the key components, the leading edge and spar are printed lengthwise. A prop printed upright will easily break but printed lengthwise they are very strong even in PLA.
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks Tim. The Guillows Arrow you feature in your videos is a plane I enjoy every time I see it. I plan to electrify one one of those along with a couple of others when I get caught up.
such a shame seems sig has been having a real hard time lately. All their kits are sold out. I usually buy a sig kit here and there for future builds. hopefully they can restock.
Another great video, Tim. Did you balance the wings laterally before your first flight? I have been flying a lot of two-channel models (Cox engine powered) lately and have found this to be important on rudder-only models.
A bit more dihedral would surely help but in my opinion first and foremost: Much more Rudder deflection! I really don't agree that - what we were able to see during your rudder check - was anything close to "plenty of rudder" movement. Such a slow flying model simply needs a lut of rudder travel, especally with such a unoptimal (by modern standards) shaped rudder surface. Im talking almost 3d-Plane amounts of throw here, 40 degreees to each side, maybe even more. In the video, you can't even see the model yawing to the left, as you tried to correct the self-turning to the right. With enough rudder throw, you definitely should have seen the plane moving around the yaw axis more, with full control inputs. Anyway, hope you can sort it out - It's a nice looking model, wish you best of lock taming it down :)
Hi Tim. Great video. It was doing the classic side slip. For rudder elevator control only, it needed more dihedral. Like you say the original full size had wing warping. So perhaps to keep the scale looks ailerons were required. Hind sight is a wonderful thing but we live and learn. Nice build it looked lovely.
Mark: Many thanks! Tim
I'm with Mark. When I saw the final photo in the garden, my reaction was "not enough dihedral for a rudder elevator model".
It might even be that, with some flexibility in the wing structure, even more dihedral would be required than with a rigid wing.
Don't give up on it if it's not too busted up. It could have been just a gust of wind! I've flown many SIG rc planes and built countless Guillows and learned enough from both that now I'm scratching an 'experimental' 48" Demoiselle with bamboo, ailerons and shock absorbing gear Your videos are inspiring and full of great tips! Thanks!
SDS: Appreciate this update, best of luck with your Demoiselle! Tim
I have the sig cadet from the 1970s unbuilt . This winter I hope
thanks for your time
Bud: Sig Cadet a great plane, do build it! Tim
I've watched several of your video's, very informative. I'm into building foam board planes. I just built a 4ft 6inch wing span trainer and took it for it's maiden about 2 weeks ago. I was shocked how well it flew. I love watching and learning new tips etc. I subscribed. 👍🏻✌🏻
Erric: Glad all worked out! Tim
This is a really cool model. Id like to try to build one out of foam board.
Give it a try! Tim
was that a sock filled with pennies? what an awesome idea to keep ur plane in place, great vid tim!!! keep em coming, i always learn something here
My lovely wife made to flexible chocks, filled with dry rice. They work great! Tim
What a gorgeous plane Tim ! You had said that you didn’t bother fixing it. I would just put it on display, and of course maybe not fly it again. They have a plane that flies up at Rhinebeck airdrome here in N.Y , that looks exactly like that. They’re careful with it and just fly about 20 feet off the ground and land it again. I don’t blame them. I go every year to watch all the old planes fly. Cole Palin, did a great job on preserving those planes and after his passing, volunteeres make sure his dream of keeping that old airport alive possible . They also have model airplane flying before the regular planes. After 50 years of building planes , you sure know your stuff ! Oh, say hello to Rudy ! 😊
Jim: Thanks for checking in! Will say hello to Rudy as well 😊🙈 Tim
Great video and interesting perspective on your test flight. I am a private pilot and I was trained to call out 500 feet AGL after takeoff because if there is catastrophic trouble before that almost always the best option is to try and land straight ahead. R/C flying when I was young is what got me interested in becoming a pilot.
Great input, thanks! Tim
I like this channel, I like building small planes, some Electric, some gas. I bought my first guillows model recently, they can be affordable but difficult to get to fly, and now I know why. I’m only building top wing, I have a Cessna 170 , and 150. The 150 is the one I have left. I could tell guillows would be difficult. I’ll keep watching and hopefully i can move on to a Corsair or something.👍
Harold: Good luck. Do check out my Guillows Hellcat build. Tim
Hello Tim. Great video. From my humble experience I know with rudder elev only it needs dihedral. About 6 degrees would be good. Going even to 7 degrees Dutch roll will happen, possibly.
Also you absolutely have to check and correct for straight wings. No wind at all on maiden with such a light plane.
Sorry I think I’ve rambled too much.
Just a thought.
Peter: Wonderful insights, thanks! Tim
Great Video!
👍🏻 Tim
It was a beautiful model!
Sanka: Many thanks! Tim
I have some thoughts on the Sig SantosDumont 21 Demoiselle: Nicely done, but these kits were not really strictly released in the early 2000's. Mine was bought in 2004 and was just starting to being actively talked about in the E-Zone RC model forum. I built this for a friend who I was teaching to fly, and he also had access to a community indoor space large enough to fly slow flying models inside. Originally I had set it up with the GWS IPS "C" drive, I think this is about 9.7:1 gear drive on the stock grey endbell GWS 120 motor. It was, IMO, barely adequate on a 800mAh Lipoly, swinging a 10X8 GWS slowflight propeller.
I built this with a better grade of balsa for the fuse framing and details to keep the AUW light, funny considering the new rules, that this model, which is one of my slowest flying, is still an ounce over the FAA weight. Lots of wing area and deeply undercambered, which made it difficult to not tipstall if forced into a climbing turn.
I heavily washed out the main wings almost 2.5 degrees from the 4 degree positive AoA. this helped it turn while adding a little up elevator. I made this model with wings that unplugged from tubes and had working flying guy wires, ( unlike the elastic thread included in the kit..) and the derrick like fuselage was also trussed up with working Dacron string reinforcement. So, it would barely climb to 20 feet in about a couple minutes on the "stock" IPS and I considered this too marginal as a model for a new flyer to practice on. He was lucky to have an Ikarus Bleriot slowflyer, which wasn't too patched up, that was a better trainer, also easier to repair. So the problem with power needed a solution, and I had him purchase Balsa Product's new Feigdao GWS IPS replacement brushless motor and a Jeti 04-03 4 amp BL ESC and helped him set this up. The BP motor needed the IPS motor heat-sink (because it ran really hot on test flights at full power..), but suddenly on a 2S, wimpy battery of the time, this model was transformed by the extra power and efficiency of the little brushless into something I would be comfortable having a novice RC pilot fly.
The bad issues of this model were the pull-pull tail control "wires" and the complexity of the full flying cruciform tail, and the crappy balsa wheels. I had to build a Kevlar thread reinforced CF tubing universal joint that was the cause of a few rear fuse king posts destruction. Covered it all in old school 00 silkspan and Deft clear varnish, which doesn't shrink like regular dope. This in keeping over 500 square inches of wing area from heat warping in the sun. In hind sight this would have been far better with the Balsa Products BP 18Y or star configuration, 24mm outrunner with a 10X4.7 SF prop. Anything around 1.25 to 2 .oz motor weight that could swing a largish enough prop with enough pitchspeed to keep it flying on a 800 to 1200 mAh Lipoly battery. GWS's Pico servos are at their limit swinging the cruciform tail probably better with the 13 gram Nanos.
Dead quiet wind conditions only.
On your Depredussin: I would suspect that you didn't have enough dihedral, but there's a fine line between too much and not enough with a model that has such a small rudder. You also seem to have been caught in a side wind gust that may have had a bit of a rotor lifting your left wing. Dead calm conditions so you can watch the model respond to gentle control inputs.
Great inputs, thanks!! Talk about a coincidence . . . I test flew my Sig Antoinette just a few hours ago this morning. Antoinette flew well but the exact same thing happened on takeoff . . . the model pulled right and would not turn left. I think the fact I hand launched saved the day as I had a bit more altitude. I noticed the wings flapping around a bit due to the heavier weight. Somehow I decided to reduce throttle and airspeed. This allowed for no more wing flex and I could turn left without an issue. Antoinette video will be out July 28th! Tim
Hi Tim, reading the other comments I would agree with slightly more dihedral, personally I would have liked a little more rudder throw as well ... better to have too much? The biggest mistake I could see though was the lack of a pilot 😉 Great summing up as well, good advice, cheers.
Cliff: All good comments, agree to have as much rudder as able. 😊😳 Tim
Great video
👍🏻 Tim
No dihedral ?, and the undercamber probably prevents what little there is from presenting the undersurface to the air when it yaws.
👍🏻😊 Tim
I'm 2 years back in. Building is so fun. My question is I have built 3 gliders and now a electric balsa plane from old school model. Gliders get a few hand launches, do you ever hand launch a power model? If not, why. Thanks for your help.
William: Thanks for checking i! Hey, I hand launch all the time, to include my recent twin engine build. Hand launch went great! Tim
I'm halfway through building a 58 inch Cambria Pioneer which is quite similar I think here in England
Good luck! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 I was totally gutted when I saw your plane ditched to the right hand side.... was it weighted wrong leaning to the right... I know most people balance the centre of gravity for what about left and right balance
Live and learn, may build another! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 I love what you do and I learnt from your videos...
So what do you think might have been the problem with the plane turning like that.. was it the motor position or a balance issues...
I think, at the end of the day I had a slight wing warp and not enough rudder throw. Tim
Very interesting. I've seen this model fly before and it didn't do well. I still don't know why.
Yup, I thought for sure this sucker would fly like a trainer! Tim
I've run into that same problem. Imagine a rod through the plane from nose to tail, and the plane rolls around that center of axes. The rudder sticks up above that axes, it has to in order to keep the plane from flipping over in flight. A plane can't fly without a rudder sticking up. Now, when you applied a lot of left rudder, because the rudder is high above the center axes, it made the plane roll to the right. And the more left rudder you give it, the more the plane tries to roll to the right. I forgot to mention, when you have a plane that is very susceptible to that problem, you must give it a little rudder, slowly.
Great points, thanks! Tim
That is a beautiful build Tim..no doubt about it.. I have a question for you??? Before you put your motor and esc / servos etc.etc.etc did you do a test glide by gently tossing it in the air and see how she flew?? I'm just wondering if it checked out ok?? before you put your motor and esc. equipment?? Reason I ask is I've also been dwn that road were the build went together perfectly ....and after the plane was built I had problems with the plane pitching to the right over n over .it was a WW-I English royal airforce biplane. My tail wing was tweaked towards the right ?? Don't know how it happened? But I took my xacto knife and Cracked? / split the tail surface from the fuse and lightly glued again using my right angle square and triple checked it that it was at a perfect 90 degree angle on both sides and my problem was solved. What baffled me was it wasn't tweaked very much at all?? Couldn't see it at all by looking at it?? It didn't take much at all to make it pitch hard to the right... lesson learned for me . Haha. As always great vid and great looking build Tim......take care.. Ray
Ray: With these early flyers, very minor warps or alignments can have large affects on flight.
I did not test glide. Model a bit too heavy fragile for a test glide, best to just take a test flight. Tim
I crash landed my trainer recently just after takeoff, didn’t have enough throws, I was accidentally in low mode. Chopped the throttle, and lost most control due to stall. Thankfully it was only minor repairs due to extremely soft field (after air heavy rain, agricultural land), It’ll fly again! I feel your pain, crashing such a delicate model :(
Mate: Good luck getting back in the air! Tim
I LOVE YOUR VIDIOS WAS WANDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME OUT. I BOUGHT A ELDER 40 TOP FLIGHT MODEL AN SOMEONE POPPED THE DITHEDERAL GAGE OUT. NOW NOT SURE OF ANGLE CAN YOU HELP ME TO FIGURE THE ANGLE OUT? THANKS
1.5” dihedral on both wings will work fine. 😊 Tim
@@TimMcKay56 are you saying if I lay half of my wing on the flat bench an prop the other end up 1.5 then square center rib up I will have it? Do this with both wings
@@DennyDavis-gd7cv Lay one half of the wing on the table. Raise the other half 3” and that should work. Tim
Hi Tim , just a question please, on a model twin motor model, why should the motors run opposite directions , I just can't work out why , thanks again Tim for your videos , from Tony
Tony: It gets complex, and the aerodynamics apply really to light twins such as a Piper Aztec, etc. But for detailed aerodynamics reasons with propeller P-factor, one engine will have more asymmetric throw than the other should the engine fail. With our RC models not really a factor. My advice on a model if you lose an engine: Reduce power to maintain control and land straight ahead. Tim
Hi Tim. You have a video on micro electronics. I mentioned in the comments I was working on sub-250 gram 3D printed planes. I put my first open-source design on Thingiverse (TH-cam deletes the link). It is R/E/T designed around the Lemon Micro Brick with 2 servos. Those are available, but micro motors and speed controllers have been out of stock for several months at HobbyKing. There are a few on Banggood and AliExpress but of unknown quality, and HH small motors are for their power systems. Where do you source your micro motors?
Doug: You are spot on for the situation for the ultra-micro electronics. The entire trade situation with China has impact. For the motors I see what is available at www.StevensAero.com. Bob is a straight shooter via email if questions. Tim
Doug: You are spot on for the situation for the ultra-micro electronics. The entire trade situation with China has impact. For the motors I see what is available at www.StevensAero.com. Bob is a straight shooter via email if questions. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Hi Tim. Thanks for the link. The motors at StevensAero are either too big or too small. I need a 12 gram - 24 gram outrunner. I had trouble with 404 errors at Thinkaverse so I moved the plane to Cults 3D, 'Sub-250 Gram 50" RC Glider, G250', If you want to have a look. I started with 50" but I have other size wings in the works. Old school sticks and ribs construction for light planes is superior to 3D printing. The only advantages are not having to sit over a plan putting in T pins for hours and it's easy to change airfoils and shapes.
I stumbled onto printing wing frames from leading edge up by designing small two-piece props which are also hard to get now. Longer wing sections can be made diagonally on the printer and the key components, the leading edge and spar are printed lengthwise. A prop printed upright will easily break but printed lengthwise they are very strong even in PLA.
Great info, thanks! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks Tim. The Guillows Arrow you feature in your videos is a plane I enjoy every time I see it. I plan to electrify one one of those along with a couple of others when I get caught up.
such a shame seems sig has been having a real hard time lately. All their kits are sold out. I usually buy a sig kit here and there for future builds. hopefully they can restock.
Michael: It is a great kit. I may try another one! Tim
Another great video, Tim. Did you balance the wings laterally before your first flight? I have been flying a lot of two-channel models (Cox engine powered) lately and have found this to be important on rudder-only models.
Rob: Did check the lateral balance and it was OK. Tim
I also crushed mine on takeoff today. Luckily only the prop broke.
Daniel: Sorry to hear! Tim
A bit more dihedral would surely help but in my opinion first and foremost: Much more Rudder deflection!
I really don't agree that - what we were able to see during your rudder check - was anything close to "plenty of rudder" movement. Such a slow flying model simply needs a lut of rudder travel, especally with such a unoptimal (by modern standards) shaped rudder surface. Im talking almost 3d-Plane amounts of throw here, 40 degreees to each side, maybe even more.
In the video, you can't even see the model yawing to the left, as you tried to correct the self-turning to the right. With enough rudder throw, you definitely should have seen the plane moving around the yaw axis more, with full control inputs.
Anyway, hope you can sort it out - It's a nice looking model, wish you best of lock taming it down :)
Florian: Thanks for your input! Tim
🛩💎🙏👍
Sam: Thanks! Tim