I know this is for a Garage, but you are still drawing in the air for the heat exchanger from your garage, and exhausting it outside. Just like the ONE HOSE portable A/Cs on the market today, they suck air from inside and blow it outside. I say this because doing this puts a Vacuum on the room you are running the A/C in, and the air being drawn outside by your A/C is being replaced by HOT air being sucked into the Garage from Someplace, like the Garage door seals. So... You are not doing much cooling of the Garage, just the Space right in front of the A/C unit with this method. If you could Draw OUTSIDE air in for the A/C to use at the rear heat exchanger, then blow that hot air outside, this would work! I once had a Portable Single Exhaust only hose, A/C that was to cool a building shop I had built. Even built a special Exhaust port in the wall for that hose to exhaust through. I found that after about 35 minutes, the unit ( although sized large enough for the space) stopped doing Any Cooling, as it had created a vacuum in the room. No air left to pull out. When I opened a Window or the Door to walk out, HOT air rushed in and the A/C would cool again for a bit, until the Vacuum was formed again. Bottom line... You need Outside Air for the Heat Exchanger at the Back of the A/C, or you won't get any real cooling !
I have a store and I was going to do this exact window a/c set up. And have it in an area where it's pointing towards the front of the store behind the cashier counter. If customers are coming in/out frequently throughout the day, it'll create the vacuum you are speaking about correct? Also I have a HVAC also but it's terrible and doesn't work very well but at the very least, is causing some kind of circulation also. Please let me know your feedback, thank you.
Best solution is to leave the window unit outside and duct the cold air into the house. Easier and quieter. I get no leakage of hot air into the garage. All the water leaks outside. Best of all worlds.
Everybody, this guy right here. This is the guy. I've done exactly this for my mill shop and assembly shop, its all logic. survivability increases, yield is consistent and dare I say pleasant to experience. i have 2 three ton units that produce 16 gallons of water a day, and they live outside year round, my widow units run this way and produce quite a bit as well. its enough to sustain my peppers tomatoes lettuce ....well, everything i can plant really. one small pump add a timer and hose work, that's water conservation while feeding urself. no downside with this approach in the 7+ years since put into play. well done Mouse
@@bkghost I'm confused. Are you saying you do everything backwards to make the unit work effectively? Wow! I want to try this. Is there a diagram about this anywhere? Sounds genius.
1st I admire how you do not cut your hands. I play guitar as a studio musician and I cut my hands walking by sheet metal. I want to chill the attic a bit so I can work up there to organize 25 years of the family storing tons of stuff. I ran lighting. The attic now has a roof vent no fans - and there are two triangle screens each end - my question is - if I found a way to build what you did - could I run it out the corner of a triangle that is hardly seen and make it look fairly normal - house is hardy board but I do have eves around the edges of the attic. I got some fans to mount but I think a couple of window units I have would really help - even if the attic is not well insulated. How intrusive or large does the exit vent need to be or in an area where nobody can see - a hose out the triangle air vent? It just gets so hot in NC much of the year - would appreciate easiest way to incorporate a couple of existing window units to take some heat off while I work on a project that will end once I get rid of tons of stuff nobody needs but many want to keep h ahahaha. I really appreciated your video - - -
Im thinking of doing this to save cost. How many BTU is your unit? Is that a 2 gear garage? And how did this work for you? Lastly, did it cool-off good enough for you to work comfortably
I have a game room and gym in my 3 car garage. iam wondering if I should get just one of this heaters or a window ac/heater for my fully insulated 3 car garage? If I get just a heater then I have to worry about getting something to cool it in the summer. I just don't know which way will be the way to go, two separate units one for the summer and one for winter or just find a unit that has both in it ac and heating? Garage is about 660sq ft and 8ft ceiling night, fullybinsulated even garage doors. Live in Clovis ca with a climate zone of 9b.
Hi I know you did this video a long time ago but I'm here trying to figure out how to do the same thing I'm just wondering did it work in your garage just like that no problems
Great idea. One idea… your exhaust hose is way smaller than the radiator, so air cannot flow at the same rate out the pipe. Heat likely builds there. Perhaps a booster fan would solve this. Great solution otherwise.
Do you need a 25 feet long air conditioner aluminum exhaust duct to take away the heat and mold perhaps? If not, how long of the air conditioner aluminum exhaust duct will be sufficient?
@@georgekhoury583 I could be wrong but I dont that that would be enough, I am wondering how this went. He is on the right track. I'd like to hear how this turned out one way or another.
@@georgekhoury583 It depends on the humidity. In the heat of the summer it will not dissipate the condensate. All wall and window units are designed to weep water that's removed by the condenser coil and it ordinarily is expelled through holes in the bottom of the case at the rear. It will need to be dealt with by some sort of condensate pan to capture it and some piping to move it outdoors or to some sort of storage container that would need to be emptied from time to time. But it will weep water, period.
@@georgekhoury583 You really need a condensate (condensate removal) pump - for convenience and to reduce the risk of flooding. If a condensate pump isn't used, the container used to captured the condensate will need to be manually emptied (unless you have, say, a floor drain and can use gravity to drain off the condensate). Manually emptying the condensate container can be an onerous task given (a) timing (needing to be present in time to empty the captured condensate before it begins to overflow) and (b) fresh H2O weighs >8lbs per gallon. Condensate removal pumps are easy to find and to set up. Lowes, Amazon and other stores carry them. Little Giant is a popular brand. I've ordered a couple for my portable ACs. Tired pretty quickly of manually emptying 5 gallon water bottles (sometimes multiple times a day during high humidity and rains). Here's an excellent TH-cam video. The guy is installing a condensate removal pump. He's very knowledgeable. Explains the process in detail from start to finish. In case the link doesn't work, title is: "Little Giant Automatic Condensate Removal Pump VCMA-ULST (554415)" th-cam.com/video/Pu1Zt1xkCPs/w-d-xo.html
I’ve got something similar in my garage sits probably 15 feet up in the air and we ended up having to ghetto rig a drainage tube that went 10 to 15 feet off to the side and drained out to the driveway awkward but definitely kept the garage a lot cooler especially when it’s 100° if not hotter outside living on the East Coast.
I would keep an eye on your attic, you could be creating mold, i assume this would be like venting a dryer into a attic, which could definitely create mold. I would probably find a better place. Just cought the part at the end, are you actually venting That outside ? Or venting into the attic ?
Magic= This is the fabrication idea that will work for me.I have bought two window types(way too big,advertised incorrect measurements)crazy.The horizontal sliding glass width is too small to fit.I could use your idea and keep it in doors.I am not sure what vents need to be unobstructed? to prevent heat buildup.I would like to fabricate this great heat removal device(just like yours).What is the type of metal you used for fabrication? and does Lowes also sell hoses, that I can buy for my diy project.I love your ingenuity!!! Thank you very much,for your time and help.I am grateful.
You also need to duct the sides of the unit, preferably with the intake well away from the exhaust. All said and done, you should end up with a two tube portable AC unit.
Because it is drawing air in to cool the coils. If you don't, it'll create negative pressure in the cooled space and suck outside air in through every crack and crevice.
If you were able to perfectly seal (not insulate) the space, which would be very difficult, the fan would create a slight vacuum and not be able to move air across the fins. Trust me, you need two ducts. Look at the commercial ducted units, they all have two for a reason.
It would seem that the condenser vents (Side) would be sucking cold air out of the garage. I would figure out a way to bring outside air in through the sides and vent the back to the outside. It would be more efficient.
I'm thinking about getting a generator and a small 5000 or 6000 btu unit for a 10x10 vendors tent for my small mobile business. My idea was a plywood box with a 4" inline exhaust fan and hose going out the vent hole of the canopy. Easy to set up and break down for mobility. At least that's the idea.
I build something like what your talking about for my boat using a plywood box for a 5000 ac unit with a 5 inch hose venting to the outside with a in duct fan have not tried it in the boat yet but does seem to work in the garage
Do you need to allow a hole at the bottom for the drain hole. I just completed my version of this and since my ac is a big guy I was wondering about the drainage.
Must not have worked too well huh? Because aren’t the intake vents also supposed to be routed outside? Otherwise, it seems like hot air would be coming in from other openings in your room.
Yes it's a cheapo rivet too from harbor freight. This one looks good too www.amazon.com/METAKOO-Interchangable-Color-Coded-40-Piece-Rivets-MHR01H/dp/B07VPDVXHP/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rivet+tool&qid=1601606153&sprefix=rivet&sr=8-4
@@okiediy1266 Nope, all wall and window units will leak water, period. Only purposely designed "Portable" vented AC units will evaporate the water over the coils....That's what they're designed to do.
@@btomas225 I was thinking the same. Not that you couldn't rig a drain into that setup. However, the other setups I've seen for purposes such as this have a vent coming into the sides as well. And the other similar rigs for RV/trailer/camping tent setups just rig a "baffle" over the front face of the AC unit and separate the incoming and the outgoing air with 4 or 5 inch ducting. @B Tomas if you were doing this, how would you rig it? If you're willing to answer I'd appreciate it. Im trying to figure out how to cool my basement in the hot summer months. The horizontally sliding windows in the basement are not large enough for window unit AC's and I was contemplating doing something similar to this or like I said the "camping tent" type setup with the unit outside and then using the baffle box and ducting to run it inside the window which would be covered by a piece of foam insulation board and just cut out holes. Any advice would be appreciated.
the only thing I noticed on mine after test running for awhile, it ACs the air nicely, and lowers the humidity, but thats what the AC needs to pull from outside, to blow water up past the fan, on the radiator part to cool it.. eventually mine didnt cool as much, as the water from humid inside air dropped. ~ Im venting into the attic too, but will pull outside air from through a hole Ill drill in my wall. also going to work some drain, and tubing to my sink ~ good luck everybody.... you sold me on the rivets for the alum sheet I bought... looks better, than bolts, or self tapping
What did you do for drainage?
Did he ever answer this?
I think he just let it drain down the wall until it started to rot, lol
Would love to hear a follow up. Large enough exhaust? Freezing up? Water drainage? Unit still working?
I too wonder about the drainage
Same here. Would really like to do this as well if it works.
U know it had problems and it was sucking the air out of the room to cool The condenser.
All of that was a problem
I know this is for a Garage, but you are still drawing in the air for the heat exchanger from your garage, and exhausting it outside. Just like the ONE HOSE portable A/Cs on the market today, they suck air from inside and blow it outside. I say this because doing this puts a Vacuum on the room you are running the A/C in, and the air being drawn outside by your A/C is being replaced by HOT air being sucked into the Garage from Someplace, like the Garage door seals.
So... You are not doing much cooling of the Garage, just the Space right in front of the A/C unit with this method.
If you could Draw OUTSIDE air in for the A/C to use at the rear heat exchanger, then blow that hot air outside, this would work!
I once had a Portable Single Exhaust only hose, A/C that was to cool a building shop I had built. Even built a special Exhaust port in the wall for that hose to exhaust through. I found that after about 35 minutes, the unit ( although sized large enough for the space) stopped doing Any Cooling, as it had created a vacuum in the room. No air left to pull out. When I opened a Window or the Door to walk out, HOT air rushed in and the A/C would cool again for a bit, until the Vacuum was formed again.
Bottom line... You need Outside Air for the Heat Exchanger at the Back of the A/C, or you won't get any real cooling !
I have a store and I was going to do this exact window a/c set up. And have it in an area where it's pointing towards the front of the store behind the cashier counter. If customers are coming in/out frequently throughout the day, it'll create the vacuum you are speaking about correct? Also I have a HVAC also but it's terrible and doesn't work very well but at the very least, is causing some kind of circulation also. Please let me know your feedback, thank you.
Best solution is to leave the window unit outside and duct the cold air into the house. Easier and quieter. I get no leakage of hot air into the garage. All the water leaks outside. Best of all worlds.
Everybody, this guy right here. This is the guy. I've done exactly this for my mill shop and assembly shop, its all logic. survivability increases, yield is consistent and dare I say pleasant to experience. i have 2 three ton units that produce 16 gallons of water a day, and they live outside year round, my widow units run this way and produce quite a bit as well. its enough to sustain my peppers tomatoes lettuce ....well, everything i can plant really. one small pump add a timer and hose work, that's water conservation while feeding urself. no downside with this approach in the 7+ years since put into play. well done Mouse
Its not supposed to intake hot air from outside. It's supposed to intake cold conditioned air from inside.
@@jimmyp7082build a shroud around the front face of the air conditioner versus the back like he did in this video.
@@bkghost I'm confused. Are you saying you do everything backwards to make the unit work effectively? Wow! I want to try this. Is there a diagram about this anywhere? Sounds genius.
Any follow-up on Performance cooling time for a specific temperature etc
1st I admire how you do not cut your hands. I play guitar as a studio musician and I cut my hands walking by sheet metal. I want to chill the attic a bit so I can work up there to organize 25 years of the family storing tons of stuff. I ran lighting. The attic now has a roof vent no fans - and there are two triangle screens each end - my question is - if I found a way to build what you did - could I run it out the corner of a triangle that is hardly seen and make it look fairly normal - house is hardy board but I do have eves around the edges of the attic. I got some fans to mount but I think a couple of window units I have would really help - even if the attic is not well insulated. How intrusive or large does the exit vent need to be or in an area where nobody can see - a hose out the triangle air vent? It just gets so hot in NC much of the year - would appreciate easiest way to incorporate a couple of existing window units to take some heat off while I work on a project that will end once I get rid of tons of stuff nobody needs but many want to keep h ahahaha. I really appreciated your video - - -
Im thinking of doing this to save cost. How many BTU is your unit? Is that a 2 gear garage? And how did this work for you? Lastly, did it cool-off good enough for you to work comfortably
I have a game room and gym in my 3 car garage. iam wondering if I should get just one of this heaters or a window ac/heater for my fully insulated 3 car garage? If I get just a heater then I have to worry about getting something to cool it in the summer. I just don't know which way will be the way to go, two separate units one for the summer and one for winter or just find a unit that has both in it ac and heating? Garage is about 660sq ft and 8ft ceiling night, fullybinsulated even garage doors. Live in Clovis ca with a climate zone of 9b.
OMFG THANK YOU!!!!!! BRILLIANT DESIGN! AND HUGE THANKS FOR THE TIPS ON MATERIALS!!!!
Hi I know you did this video a long time ago but I'm here trying to figure out how to do the same thing I'm just wondering did it work in your garage just like that no problems
Great idea. One idea… your exhaust hose is way smaller than the radiator, so air cannot flow at the same rate out the pipe. Heat likely builds there. Perhaps a booster fan would solve this. Great solution otherwise.
Do you need a 25 feet long air conditioner aluminum exhaust duct to take away the heat and mold perhaps?
If not, how long of the air conditioner aluminum exhaust duct will be sufficient?
You need to deal with the condensation from the condenser in the rear. This will leak all over your garage floor, especially when it's humid outside.
Wouldn't the exhausted heat be enough to dry up any condensation?
@@georgekhoury583 I could be wrong but I dont that that would be enough, I am wondering how this went. He is on the right track. I'd like to hear how this turned out one way or another.
@@georgekhoury583 It depends on the humidity. In the heat of the summer it will not dissipate the condensate. All wall and window units are designed to weep water that's removed by the condenser coil and it ordinarily is expelled through holes in the bottom of the case at the rear.
It will need to be dealt with by some sort of condensate pan to capture it and some piping to move it outdoors or to some sort of storage container that would need to be emptied from time to time. But it will weep water, period.
@@georgekhoury583 You really need a condensate (condensate removal) pump - for convenience and to reduce the risk of flooding. If a condensate pump isn't used, the container used to captured the condensate will need to be manually emptied (unless you have, say, a floor drain and can use gravity to drain off the condensate). Manually emptying the condensate container can be an onerous task given (a) timing (needing to be present in time to empty the captured condensate before it begins to overflow) and (b) fresh H2O weighs >8lbs per gallon.
Condensate removal pumps are easy to find and to set up. Lowes, Amazon and other stores carry them. Little Giant is a popular brand. I've ordered a couple for my portable ACs. Tired pretty quickly of manually emptying 5 gallon water bottles (sometimes multiple times a day during high humidity and rains).
Here's an excellent TH-cam video. The guy is installing a condensate removal pump. He's very knowledgeable. Explains the process in detail from start to finish. In case the link doesn't work, title is:
"Little Giant Automatic Condensate Removal Pump VCMA-ULST (554415)"
th-cam.com/video/Pu1Zt1xkCPs/w-d-xo.html
I’ve got something similar in my garage sits probably 15 feet up in the air and we ended up having to ghetto rig a drainage tube that went 10 to 15 feet off to the side and drained out to the driveway awkward but definitely kept the garage a lot cooler especially when it’s 100° if not hotter outside living on the East Coast.
Thank you man great video, very helpful information with my a/c installation in the garage 😀
I would keep an eye on your attic, you could be creating mold, i assume this would be like venting a dryer into a attic, which could definitely create mold. I would probably find a better place. Just cought the part at the end, are you actually venting That outside ? Or venting into the attic ?
What about the condensation where does it go?
Magic= This is the fabrication idea that will work for me.I have bought two window types(way too big,advertised incorrect measurements)crazy.The horizontal sliding glass width is too small to fit.I could use your idea and keep it in doors.I am not sure what vents need to be unobstructed? to prevent heat buildup.I would like to fabricate this great heat removal device(just like yours).What is the type of metal you used for fabrication? and does Lowes also sell hoses, that I can buy for my diy project.I love your ingenuity!!! Thank you very much,for your time and help.I am grateful.
Did he ever answer this question
im doing this now, hope to get tips... the water splashing out the back, is the biggest concern on mine :)
You also need to duct the sides of the unit, preferably with the intake well away from the exhaust. All said and done, you should end up with a two tube portable AC unit.
Just curious, why would you need to?
Because it is drawing air in to cool the coils. If you don't, it'll create negative pressure in the cooled space and suck outside air in through every crack and crevice.
Is it really that strong of a suction to worry about? Wouldn’t 100% insulation solve that issue(sucking air from outside)?
If you were able to perfectly seal (not insulate) the space, which would be very difficult, the fan would create a slight vacuum and not be able to move air across the fins. Trust me, you need two ducts. Look at the commercial ducted units, they all have two for a reason.
Exactly. I was wondering if anyone noticed his mistake.
GREAT IDEA!!! I’ve got to give it a try. Thanks
vent hose looks really small, makes me wonder if it over heats
Dope, I am looking to buy a floor model on wheels and I don't have any windows in my garage so I am venting it out of the ceiling is clutch‼️
Without the intake being outside as well, are you just sucking out the cold air you are putting in?
:o
So the sides don't need to be vented, only the back?
It would seem that the condenser vents (Side) would be sucking cold air out of the garage. I would figure out a way to bring outside air in through the sides and vent the back to the outside. It would be more efficient.
How do you do this in a room without windows indoors
Wouldn't that cause terrible pressure?
Does the AC leak out the back ?
So wheres the water drainage going from condensation?
Those units typically drain to the outside of the house. His probably falls straight down. He really should have a drain pan or something
We're is your water going ?
I'm thinking about getting a generator and a small 5000 or 6000 btu unit for a 10x10 vendors tent for my small mobile business. My idea was a plywood box with a 4" inline exhaust fan and hose going out the vent hole of the canopy. Easy to set up and break down for mobility. At least that's the idea.
I build something like what your talking about for my boat using a plywood box for a 5000 ac unit with a 5 inch hose venting to the outside with a in duct fan have not tried it in the boat yet but does seem to work in the garage
Do you need to allow a hole at the bottom for the drain hole. I just completed my version of this and since my ac is a big guy I was wondering about the drainage.
Where will the WATWR DRAIN?
so how did that work with no airflow? i wanna try this
Must not have worked too well huh? Because aren’t the intake vents also supposed to be routed outside? Otherwise, it seems like hot air would be coming in from other openings in your room.
Yeah, if it's cool enough to pull in air and blow it into the attic, why not open the door and put up mosquito netting. Would use much less kilowatts.
I'm sorry;I just noticed that tool,is it a rivet tool.I will need one as well.Thank you !
Yes it's a cheapo rivet too from harbor freight. This one looks good too www.amazon.com/METAKOO-Interchangable-Color-Coded-40-Piece-Rivets-MHR01H/dp/B07VPDVXHP/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rivet+tool&qid=1601606153&sprefix=rivet&sr=8-4
Great idea it wouldn't work where I live too much humidity unless you had a drain underneath it
Wouldn’t it be easier and more efficient to cut a hole in the garage wall and mount it like it was intended?
Drainage???
Depends on the AC unit. Some will evaporate the water over the coils and out the exhaust. Some others will need a vent tube to catch the drainage.
@@okiediy1266 Nope, all wall and window units will leak water, period. Only purposely designed "Portable" vented AC units will evaporate the water over the coils....That's what they're designed to do.
@@btomas225 I was thinking the same. Not that you couldn't rig a drain into that setup. However, the other setups I've seen for purposes such as this have a vent coming into the sides as well. And the other similar rigs for RV/trailer/camping tent setups just rig a "baffle" over the front face of the AC unit and separate the incoming and the outgoing air with 4 or 5 inch ducting. @B Tomas if you were doing this, how would you rig it? If you're willing to answer I'd appreciate it. Im trying to figure out how to cool my basement in the hot summer months. The horizontally sliding windows in the basement are not large enough for window unit AC's and I was contemplating doing something similar to this or like I said the "camping tent" type setup with the unit outside and then using the baffle box and ducting to run it inside the window which would be covered by a piece of foam insulation board and just cut out holes. Any advice would be appreciated.
How is it working so far?
Better if it was bigger!
@@okiediy1266 if you had a larger exhaust pipe or a booster fan to compensate for the pipe diameter, you might get better results.
Should have put a fan in the exhaust to help vent it out
the only thing I noticed on mine after test running for awhile, it ACs the air nicely, and lowers the humidity, but thats what the AC needs to pull from outside, to blow water up past the fan, on the radiator part to cool it.. eventually mine didnt cool as much, as the water from humid inside air dropped. ~ Im venting into the attic too, but will pull outside air from through a hole Ill drill in my wall. also going to work some drain, and tubing to my sink ~ good luck everybody.... you sold me on the rivets for the alum sheet I bought... looks better, than bolts, or self tapping
Nice LG window unit
that might also work on a silverado lol
So, you cooling air by the AC and then using this cold air to cool your AC... Looks useless without intake...
Nice!
Thank you!!
My man
Where does the water goes ah ah
Venting out thru the soffit isn't a good idea. I foresee problems.
Just curious. Why????
its gonna trip on high head pressure
EXPLAIN
Naw its fine.
I don't think so?
Three letters on why I am here. Can you guess it?
HOA
Foil tape
Hey, how has the AC holding so far? did it work in the long run @okiediy1266 ?
Where’s the water condensation going?