~Oh boy, more tools I must have. I am an Amerature Gunsmith and a Tool Junkie. I must now try checkering. ~My wife does not know anything about your Channel or how you have enabled me to become a much better Amature Gunsmith and I thank you much.
You do some incredible work and you are very talented. Keep it up, I enjoy watching you turn basic 1911's into functioning works of art! I also use your videos as instructions when I want to fancy-up my builds, so thanks again for all of your videos as they are very helpful.
Thank you. It is not difficult but it is time consuming. And trying to impose your will onto the file as it is guided by already cut lines is not a good idea. Other than that just let the file tell you where it wants to go and you listen (assuming the starting lines were cut correctly) and all it will take is time.
Mosin, Great work as always. I practiced on a couple of mainspring housings and like you I did not see the need to use the single line file. I do use the single line file to clean up serrations on the old style GI pieces. Keep the videos coming. Thanks for sharing, Randy
Wow! Amazing work! I found this looking up videos to see if this was something I could do myself and I find a video of a master craftsman at work lol! Beautiful work!!!
Your file skills have always amazed me, I think I do pretty well until I watch you and see how many parts you sculpt with only a file. Getting those first vertical lines are tough on the hands aren’t they!
Thank you. Yes, holding the file by the teeth is never pleasant. That is why I put on some gloves. Still got a massive blister. I will be posting a video of the undercut later tonight probably.
I bought a pre checkered piece and welded it n on my 1911. it look awesome and you cant see that it is a welded in piece. I did not dare to try to checker it with a file, next time I will try.
Good file work. Watching your video's have inspired me to do some work on some of my 1911s I have always thought a mill was needed for most metal working operations. I have one question. Where did you get your checkering guide at? It looks a lot better than the one brownells sells. Keep up the good work
Short answer is yes, but you have to be really familiar with files and get a jig with a 45° edge. Brownells sells these now. With 45 degree checkering it will produce "diamond" pattern. I haven't tried it myself yet, but will in the future.
I have a parkerized firearm in which I am considering a gunsmith to do a front checkering. I probably will need him to also re parkerize the surface once he's done won't I?
@@whit1967 The one I have has been discontinued a while ago. It can be made , and there are other variations of checkering guides available on Brownells and MidwayUSA websites.
Hi! 1st of all, thanks for this video. Now please I'd like to know your true opinion about this: can the checkering could be made in a aluminum or zamac frame? If so, how do you recomend to do it? This stupid question has a reason to be: as I can not own a real 1911 in this country I'm in, I must get along with replicas. Silly but truth. Hence this question... 1000 thanks in advance, and please keep teaching us, you got the knowledge and skils of a surgeon.
It sounds like you are not easing the preasure on the back stroke is this jusy the audio or do you keep preasure on both strokes? Thanks again for your time to make these informative videos
Oh, no. I absolutely ease up on the back draw. The camera has a very sensitive mic. That is why it picks up everything, and sometimes makes it sound like I drag the file hard.
I notice that you have your company name and serial no (presumably) stamped into each lower. Where did you have this done, or do you do it yourself? And, lastly, would you contemplate a series on .40 S&W, or is it too much like a .45 ACP? Thanks in advance for your response.
Even before CA mandated builders to pretend to be manufacturers and serialize their builds I did it voluntarily because I wanted to be able to report my guns stolen if, God forbid, that happens. I went to a local laser engraver and engraved the necessary lines to a depth of 0.020". It is a fast and really cool process. Aas done right in front of me. As for new builds, CA made it impossible to build semi automatic handguns. However I would be able to caliber convert. The reason I wouldn't do a .40S&W is that I don't have anything else in that caliber, but building a .40 is no different than any other non-45acp caliber in a 1911. Basically some specific parts.
Recently came across your videos and im very happy i did, super clear anf interesting videos thank you for uploading these, how did you learn these skills?
@@MosinVirus thank you for the reply, im looking to start a 1911 project in the near future, ive been binge watching all your 1911 videos, thanks for the content, and for the tools video especially, very helpful
@@JM-jb5cb it is my pleasure. Stop by Full 30 forum if you want to post your project, ask me questions, etc. I have a section there under Meet Our Producers. forum.full30.com/c/meet-our-producers/mosinvirus
I'm not sure if you're familiar with the show, but it just hit me, your channel is the gunsmithing equivalent of The Woodwright's Shop with Roy Underhill
I was wondering is there any way of filing your checkering at a 45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees thank you for your time and effort really do appreciate your work and effort
If I made up a fixture with a 45 degree face instead of a 90 degree face it would be very doable. Perhaps I will do that in the future. I know they have checkering jigs with that angle.
Hey Mosin, been rewatching your checkering videos as I'm thinking of finally trying it myself on my 92FS. Man, this looks way easier than cutting line-by-line with a V-file. The 92FS has vertical lines cut on it already, so it's as easy as running a checkering file like this horizontally, is that right? My goal would be to replicate the checkering found on the M9A1/M9A3. Would a Brownells checkering file work for most any gun's front & backstrap? For example, the curvature on the straps of a 92FS and 1911 are very different, would that matter? I assume using copper wire as a jig helps. Speaking of jigs, do you think one would be needed for the 92FS?
Hi, yes horizontal lines can be added using a checkering file from Brownells. The problem with using that file is the curved front and rear sections. Curved areas pose a problem even when using milling machines. A lot more setup would be required to continue checkering into curves. That is why you usually see it applied to straight sections. Plus, I don't think it would look right in concave or convex areas because you couldn't keep the lines parallel to each other. You would essentially see () or )( happening. It was very difficult to maintain consistency with a single point file and would be impossible with a checkering file on concave surfaces.
@@MosinVirus Ahh, I see, so there was a reason you went line-by-line with a single point file for that first Beretta video, makes sense. Well, this is gonna be harder than anticipated, but I'm still willing to try it. I believe I found the same 60 degree V-file you used on Brownells. Wish me luck, I THINK I know what I'm getting myself into lolol. Thanks Mosin.
@@lon242 yes, the duller the angle the shallower the cut between any two points. As for coarseness, the finer the file the longer it will take to remove material, though finer files leave better cut finish.
It is actually the file that does it. Checkering files have straight rows of teeth, so once you get a file lines started using a guide, it becomes difficult to "get out" of those lines. The file wants to continue to ride in the grooves, cutting them deeper and deeper until it bottoms out on the tops of remaining material.
Please correct my ignorance if I'm wrong but I thought files were only meant to be used in one direction to get the cleanest surface and edges? This looks great so maybe I'm wrong but I was curious.
@@MosinVirus Okay cool. I thought so. I couldn't tell if you were using one forward stroke or a back and forth and I was just thinking about it. Great video either way and great work!
@@Yomom12388 no, you noticed it correctly. I choose to not use the files properly. I don't lift off completely, but I do not apply pressure as I move the file rearward.
It takes me under 4 hours to undercut and checker the front strap. If I am checkering rear of MSH as well, total time is about 5 hours. At first a guide should be used to follow while cutting the first few lines, afterwards the file uses those cut lines to guide itself. All teeth on a checkering file are on rows.
It depends on your level of control of the file. Doing horizontal lines first makes it easier to do vertical lines because there is less material to remove, but because you are effectively gliding the file across horizontal lines it can get a bit "jumpy". So you could cut some shallow starting vertical lines in the middle of the strap, then do horizontals, and then the file will still "find" those shallow vertical files from before. But generally, you use more of the file on smaller surface when doing horizontal, and then less of the file on larger surface when doing verticals, so horizontal lines first helps me a lot.
@@MosinVirus ok thanks. Do you know anything about checkering a frame that's been parkerized. I can't find very much info and I don't really see anybody doing it. Maybe because it's a bad idea? I don't know. Do you think I could checker the front strap and then re-parkerize it? I don't know if the checkering will take the color. I see things like grip safety's that been checkered and either blued, parkerized or painted and it looks good and seems fairly durable. What is your professional opinion???
@@Oreguns85 i like parkerizing a lot. It holds oil really well. Which is also the reason you would want to strip all old parkerizing (by sandblasting) before parkerizing again. You can checker the front strap and use cold blue the section, but it will stand out and will not be as good as parkerizing. I posted a video about parkerizing at home when I was building my "Exfoliator" (Build 8)
About what is the cost (cheapest you could manage)? I've chewed my AR 80% builds down to around $275... I'd like to try an 1911, but would like to be around the $300 mark or lower - is this possible? With the AR, I can usually get the lower and upper for around $40 (together), but every 1911 frame (80%) I see is usually over $100 and the slide is often more (minus barrel, etc.).
If you discount the price of tools, and get some parts for free or really cheap at shows, etc., maybe. But unlikely. I have not tried to focus on the cost aspect.
shootgp The cheapest I have paid to build a 1911 was about $650 complete. But, dont settle for cheap parts because they will not fit good or have to be replaced.
@@MosinVirus You probably already know this but 25 lpi checkering files are super expensive compared to 20 or 30 lpi. If you had to pick between 20 or 30 what would you pick?
@@ogsniper743 depends on how you like your grips - aggressive or more comfortable. Many people find 20 LPI too aggressive. However, you can knock down the tips of 20 LPI pyramids to make it less aggressive. I personally prefer 20 LPI.
@@MosinVirus When you checker something does the Lpi of the file make it any easier or more difficult to pull off? I would think the higher the lpi the easier it would be to screw up since there's way more lines and there not as deep??? Have you noticed anything like that with all of your experience???
@@ogsniper743 the shallower the lines the easier it is to mess up, so yes, with finer LPI it gets more difficult to keep the file in the existing lines. But with shallower lines less material is removed so in a way it is faster.
It takes me about 4 hours to produce the trigger guard undercut and checker the front strap. Another hour or so for rear strap if it is straight (not arched). It all kind of depends on vice height, lighting, and LPI.
My friend, I congratulate you on your work. They are excellent. I ask you, would you be so kind as to text me the exact size and file of the file you use to carry out this work? thank you very much.
Не знаю точно как на заводах в массовом производстве делают, но думаю что так-же как и по одной на станке. Вот например: th-cam.com/video/8XBCVfa91-E/w-d-xo.html
MosinVirus по моему глубокому убеждению 1911 самый красивый пистолет, но мощный для средней руки (хотя это на любителя, в какой-то мере и мне .45 ACP по душе). И вот недавно на Ютюб я увидел Беби рок от Рок Исланд под 9х19... Влюбился!!! А ещё очень нравится CZ 83. Про любовь это конечно аллегория)) , но.. но примерно 5-6 моделей мне по сердцу.
I don't know what others charge for this, and I am not licensed to receive guns by mail, but the few times I did this at other people's workshops (with the owners present) i charged $200 for trigger guard undercut, front strap checkering and rear strap checkering. It usually takes me 4 hours
The LPI is the same on both sides, but the lines may be positioned differently between the sides. For example, one side may have a half tooth on the left and the other on the right. When cutting horizontals I stick to one side of the file for that reason. The other thing I noticed is that the files are not always perfectly flat. Sometimes they are slightly bent. This matters when cutting verticals. And using both sides will make up for that.
@@czts4778 I personally don't know anyone that deals with CZs, and you probably want someone who specializes in CZs so the setup will be shorter. Try asking on one of the CZ forums.
To each their own, of course, but I like aggressive texturing. That one was actually very comfortable to everyone that tried it. What LPI have you tried or do you not like all of them?
Again Sir I admire your hand skills. Thank you for keeping hand worked tooling alive.
Thank you. I do intend to keep working with hand tools as much as possible.
A+, I’ve had a handful of guns worked on and built by Clark Custom Guns, over the last 30+ years, extremely pleased each and every time
~Oh boy, more tools I must have. I am an Amerature Gunsmith and a Tool Junkie. I must now try checkering.
~My wife does not know anything about your Channel or how you have enabled me to become a much better Amature Gunsmith and I thank you much.
It is my pleasure. I am glad I am helping you get more tools.
You do some incredible work and you are very talented. Keep it up, I enjoy watching you turn basic 1911's into functioning works of art! I also use your videos as instructions when I want to fancy-up my builds, so thanks again for all of your videos as they are very helpful.
Thank you. I am glad these help.
You are a master filer. We are not worthy
You are too kind. Thank you.
@Rusty Highlander Thank you very much.
Had watched lots of video about 1911 workings and only you inspired me. You are really a master craftsman....keep it up....
Thank you very much. I will do my best. Finally going out to the range this week. Will grab my camera.
LOL - you make it look so easy ... and I'm guessing it's ANYTHING but easy to get as good a finish as you do. Great work and a very interesting video.
Thank you. It is not difficult but it is time consuming. And trying to impose your will onto the file as it is guided by already cut lines is not a good idea. Other than that just let the file tell you where it wants to go and you listen (assuming the starting lines were cut correctly) and all it will take is time.
Dude good job, I've checkered wood before but never metal, I might try this on my 1911
Thank you. You should absolutely try it on metal.
I just have to get those metal checkering files, all I have is wood checkering tools
Getting better and better each build Mosin. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you very much.
You make it look possible! Art, skill, mastery.
Thank you very much.
Mosin, Great work as always. I practiced on a couple of mainspring housings and like you I did not see the need to use the single line file. I do use the single line file to clean up serrations on the old style GI pieces. Keep the videos coming. Thanks for sharing, Randy
Yes, the single point files are useful, but for new checkering they will only make things harder.
Wow! Amazing work! I found this looking up videos to see if this was something I could do myself and I find a video of a master craftsman at work lol! Beautiful work!!!
Thank you very much.
Another outstanding craftsmanship you have there. I really enjoy your videos thanks.
Thank you for watching. I just promised I will show all the finishing touches on this one, so I am.
YOU DA MAN!!!!
Beautiful craftsmanship
Thank you very much.
Your file skills have always amazed me, I think I do pretty well until I watch you and see how many parts you sculpt with only a file. Getting those first vertical lines are tough on the hands aren’t they!
Thank you. Yes, holding the file by the teeth is never pleasant. That is why I put on some gloves. Still got a massive blister. I will be posting a video of the undercut later tonight probably.
Try two pair of gloves, very thin (but tough) inner gloves and then thicker outer gloves.
Mawang Dwei thank you.
That work is phenomenal... How much do you charge for that same package?
You are way underrated. Forget les baer. You need your own 1911 line.
Thank you for such a great compliment.
I have my gunsmith certificate. I could learn more from you than any college!!!!!!
I still have a lot to learn myself.
This gives me confidence to do this when I get my tisas
Excellent. I am glad I could help
Absolutely stunning work.
Thank you very much
this is so satisfying to watch
Thank you. I am glad you liked it.
Awesome work, really enjoy all your videos.
Thank you sir. More to come for sure.
That looks great! Really nice job!
Thank you very much.
Ayo I could feel the thumbnail just by looking at it.
Когда золотые руки - это прекрасно. Реально "залип" на твоем канале.
Спасибо.
Shiver me timbers.thank you
My pleasure
Beautiful work enjoy your channel ..
Keep up the good work
Thank you very much. Lots of blending ahead.
I bought a pre checkered piece and welded it n on my 1911. it look awesome and you cant see that it is a welded in piece. I did not dare to try to checker it with a file, next time I will try.
I wish I could weld. As soon as I have space I am getting a tig welder and starting to learn.
@Norse Man.
Heck, if you can weld clean, this should be nothing for you! Both take a steady hand. Both are precision.
Hail the Old Ways!
Beautiful work!
Thank you
Wowww,fantastic work 👍👍👍
Thank you very much.
Thanks for sharing this video... this is on my to-do list
My pleasure.
Good file work. Watching your video's have inspired me to do some work on some of my 1911s I have always thought a mill was needed for most metal working operations. I have one question. Where did you get your checkering guide at? It looks a lot better than the one brownells sells.
Keep up the good work
Thank you. I got my jig from Brownells a long time ago. I think it is discontinued.
Watching this , is just ... don't know ...mesmerizing I guess
Thank you very much. I am glad you liked it.
Thanks love your work
Thank you.
Where did you get your checkering jig? I can't seem to find one anywhere online. Thank you!
Mine was discontinued. MidwayUSA and Brownells sell newer, slightly different jigs now.
I'm looking into doing my first 1911 80% is there any way to do the checkering at the 45 degree angle?
Short answer is yes, but you have to be really familiar with files and get a jig with a 45° edge. Brownells sells these now. With 45 degree checkering it will produce "diamond" pattern. I haven't tried it myself yet, but will in the future.
I have a parkerized firearm in which I am considering a gunsmith to do a front checkering. I probably will need him to also re parkerize the surface once he's done won't I?
Yes, but chances are they will remove all existing parkerizing and re-park.
Holy shit these are amazing videos
Thank you very much. Make sure to check out Build 10 ones. You may like them.
MosinVirus will do! Just getting into 1911s
How do apply a blue finish after checkering? Do you use the slow rust method?
You could definitely use slow rust bluing. I have had my frames cerakoted, and nitrided. And I parkerized my Build 8.
Great job as usual
Thank you.
Maybe someone already asked, but where did you getting the round jig? Did you make it?
@@whit1967 The one I have has been discontinued a while ago. It can be made , and there are other variations of checkering guides available on Brownells and MidwayUSA websites.
there are 3d printable files available for one similar online
Bro you did awesome job looks great! Where can I get that kit so I can do mine?
Thank you. For tools my go to is Brownells.
Excelente vídeo gostei muito meus parabéns, excelente profissional.
Muito obrigada pelo elogio.
Did you get the guides from brownells also?
Yes, the set I am using has been discontinued though.
Hi! 1st of all, thanks for this video. Now please I'd like to know your true opinion about this: can the checkering could be made in a aluminum or zamac frame? If so, how do you recomend to do it? This stupid question has a reason to be: as I can not own a real 1911 in this country I'm in, I must get along with replicas. Silly but truth. Hence this question... 1000 thanks in advance, and please keep teaching us, you got the knowledge and skils of a surgeon.
Thank you. Yes, checkering can be cut on Aluminum frames as well.
Have you ever checkered an aluminum frame? Anything I should be concerned about?
Yes, checkered my Beretta and 1911s. Clean the file frequently.
How many hours does it take to finish the whole task of making a 45?I am thinking 10 hours start to finish.
It depends on what and how you want to do. I haven't timed myself, for example, but if you do want to rush perhaps 10 hours is more than enough.
It sounds like you are not easing the preasure on the back stroke is this jusy the audio or do you keep preasure on both strokes? Thanks again for your time to make these informative videos
Oh, no. I absolutely ease up on the back draw. The camera has a very sensitive mic. That is why it picks up everything, and sometimes makes it sound like I drag the file hard.
I notice that you have your company name and serial no (presumably) stamped into each lower. Where did you have this done, or do you do it yourself?
And, lastly, would you contemplate a series on .40 S&W, or is it too much like a .45 ACP?
Thanks in advance for your response.
Even before CA mandated builders to pretend to be manufacturers and serialize their builds I did it voluntarily because I wanted to be able to report my guns stolen if, God forbid, that happens. I went to a local laser engraver and engraved the necessary lines to a depth of 0.020". It is a fast and really cool process. Aas done right in front of me.
As for new builds, CA made it impossible to build semi automatic handguns. However I would be able to caliber convert. The reason I wouldn't do a .40S&W is that I don't have anything else in that caliber, but building a .40 is no different than any other non-45acp caliber in a 1911.
Basically some specific parts.
Recently came across your videos and im very happy i did, super clear anf interesting videos thank you for uploading these, how did you learn these skills?
As far as checkering I just learned by doing. For the rest (dimensions, specs, etc) I used a book. Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual vol 1 and 2.
@@MosinVirus thank you for the reply, im looking to start a 1911 project in the near future, ive been binge watching all your 1911 videos, thanks for the content, and for the tools video especially, very helpful
@@JM-jb5cb it is my pleasure. Stop by Full 30 forum if you want to post your project, ask me questions, etc. I have a section there under Meet Our Producers. forum.full30.com/c/meet-our-producers/mosinvirus
@@MosinVirus will do, i appreciate the info very much and look forward to watching the rest of your videos
I'm not sure if you're familiar with the show, but it just hit me, your channel is the gunsmithing equivalent of The Woodwright's Shop with Roy Underhill
Thank you for a great compliment.
I was wondering is there any way of filing your checkering at a 45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees thank you for your time and effort really do appreciate your work and effort
If I made up a fixture with a 45 degree face instead of a 90 degree face it would be very doable. Perhaps I will do that in the future. I know they have checkering jigs with that angle.
chuck steen
How do keep a straight edge on the right and left side qhen doing the horizontal lines?
The file is partly riding in the grooves cut before the file was repositioned.
could I practice a few times on a piece of black pipe or galvanized 1/2" maybe?
Practicing on a pipe is a good idea.
@@MosinVirus thanks!
Not a smith yet, just a gun mechanic so far lol. Its served me well....saved a lot and helped a few folks as well.
Hey Mosin, been rewatching your checkering videos as I'm thinking of finally trying it myself on my 92FS. Man, this looks way easier than cutting line-by-line with a V-file. The 92FS has vertical lines cut on it already, so it's as easy as running a checkering file like this horizontally, is that right? My goal would be to replicate the checkering found on the M9A1/M9A3.
Would a Brownells checkering file work for most any gun's front & backstrap? For example, the curvature on the straps of a 92FS and 1911 are very different, would that matter? I assume using copper wire as a jig helps. Speaking of jigs, do you think one would be needed for the 92FS?
Hi, yes horizontal lines can be added using a checkering file from Brownells. The problem with using that file is the curved front and rear sections. Curved areas pose a problem even when using milling machines. A lot more setup would be required to continue checkering into curves. That is why you usually see it applied to straight sections. Plus, I don't think it would look right in concave or convex areas because you couldn't keep the lines parallel to each other. You would essentially see () or )( happening. It was very difficult to maintain consistency with a single point file and would be impossible with a checkering file on concave surfaces.
@@MosinVirus Ahh, I see, so there was a reason you went line-by-line with a single point file for that first Beretta video, makes sense. Well, this is gonna be harder than anticipated, but I'm still willing to try it. I believe I found the same 60 degree V-file you used on Brownells. Wish me luck, I THINK I know what I'm getting myself into lolol. Thanks Mosin.
@@lon242 good luck. Go slow and don't cut too deep. I can't remember if I used a 90° file for that reason.
@@MosinVirus Thanks. Sorry, just want to confirm... a 90° doesn't cut as deep as a 60°? Does fine/medium grit matter much?
@@lon242 yes, the duller the angle the shallower the cut between any two points. As for coarseness, the finer the file the longer it will take to remove material, though finer files leave better cut finish.
Where can we purchase the jig, guide you use?
@@danqodusk8140 it is discontinued. Brownells and MidwayUSA sell new versions.
How do you move the file in a straight line each and every time? That's amazing!
It is actually the file that does it. Checkering files have straight rows of teeth, so once you get a file lines started using a guide, it becomes difficult to "get out" of those lines. The file wants to continue to ride in the grooves, cutting them deeper and deeper until it bottoms out on the tops of remaining material.
how long did it take to do the checkering?
@@marka9484 it takes me about 4-5 hours to undercut the trigger guard and checker both front and rear straps.
Please correct my ignorance if I'm wrong but I thought files were only meant to be used in one direction to get the cleanest surface and edges? This looks great so maybe I'm wrong but I was curious.
You are correct, the proper use of a file is to cut on a forward stroke and lift up to reset.
@@MosinVirus Okay cool. I thought so. I couldn't tell if you were using one forward stroke or a back and forth and I was just thinking about it. Great video either way and great work!
@@Yomom12388 no, you noticed it correctly. I choose to not use the files properly. I don't lift off completely, but I do not apply pressure as I move the file rearward.
Yea nice job,, I want to try this,checkering
Thank you.
What file are you using? I believe I’m gonna try this out😮💨✍🏿
It is a checkering file. They come in different Lines Per Inch. Most people prefer 25 LPI. Brownells has the files.
About how long does it take you to cheecker the front strap? It would seem that a needed skill is keeping the file straght, as well.
It takes me under 4 hours to undercut and checker the front strap. If I am checkering rear of MSH as well, total time is about 5 hours. At first a guide should be used to follow while cutting the first few lines, afterwards the file uses those cut lines to guide itself. All teeth on a checkering file are on rows.
Do you recommend doing the vertical or horizontal lines first when checkering a 1911 front strap?
It depends on your level of control of the file. Doing horizontal lines first makes it easier to do vertical lines because there is less material to remove, but because you are effectively gliding the file across horizontal lines it can get a bit "jumpy". So you could cut some shallow starting vertical lines in the middle of the strap, then do horizontals, and then the file will still "find" those shallow vertical files from before. But generally, you use more of the file on smaller surface when doing horizontal, and then less of the file on larger surface when doing verticals, so horizontal lines first helps me a lot.
@@MosinVirus ok thanks. Do you know anything about checkering a frame that's been parkerized. I can't find very much info and I don't really see anybody doing it. Maybe because it's a bad idea? I don't know. Do you think I could checker the front strap and then re-parkerize it? I don't know if the checkering will take the color. I see things like grip safety's that been checkered and either blued, parkerized or painted and it looks good and seems fairly durable. What is your professional opinion???
@@Oreguns85 i like parkerizing a lot. It holds oil really well. Which is also the reason you would want to strip all old parkerizing (by sandblasting) before parkerizing again. You can checker the front strap and use cold blue the section, but it will stand out and will not be as good as parkerizing. I posted a video about parkerizing at home when I was building my "Exfoliator" (Build 8)
Very satisfying.. I want to try on my Norinco tt 636 .. can you tell me file(tool) name
Thank you. These are checkeing files. Brownells has them in stock.
@@MosinVirus Brownells Bann my region to explore 😒
@@farhanansari5125 sorry to hear that.
About what is the cost (cheapest you could manage)?
I've chewed my AR 80% builds down to around $275... I'd like to try an 1911, but would like to be around the $300 mark or lower - is this possible?
With the AR, I can usually get the lower and upper for around $40 (together), but every 1911 frame (80%) I see is usually over $100 and the slide is often more (minus barrel, etc.).
If you discount the price of tools, and get some parts for free or really cheap at shows, etc., maybe. But unlikely. I have not tried to focus on the cost aspect.
shootgp The cheapest I have paid to build a 1911 was about $650 complete. But, dont settle for cheap parts because they will not fit good or have to be replaced.
So what's the "time elapse" to get the checkering done? You sure make it look easy.
I can do the trigger guard undercut and front strap checkering in 4 hours.
What is the benefit of doing this to a 1911? Is it for chamber checking?
Same idea as textured grip panels. Some people prefer a more grabby texture on the grip for control, others dont need it.
Good job ,me want to know which chosen files checkering
Thank you. I primarily use 20LPI and 25LPI checkering files from Brownells. They are made by Grobet.
@@MosinVirus thank u very much for your reply.and me very like your great work . I want to build 1911 and double shotgun
@@jinghu8023 Good luck with your projects.
@@MosinVirus hi you are very nice craftsman .if you dont mind,me want know where can buy one double barrel shotgun drawings.please
hu unfortunately I don't know where you can get plans for a shotgun.
nice work...
Thank you.
Mad props!
Thank you very much
Is chalk necessary?
Or does it help in cutting or cleaning?
It helps prevent the file from getting loaded up with shavings.
Hey where did you get your checkering jig from or what jig would you recommend?
I believe my checkering jig was discontinued, unfortunately. Look on Brownells, they have a different one available.
@@MosinVirus You probably already know this but 25 lpi checkering files are super expensive compared to 20 or 30 lpi. If you had to pick between 20 or 30 what would you pick?
@@ogsniper743 depends on how you like your grips - aggressive or more comfortable. Many people find 20 LPI too aggressive. However, you can knock down the tips of 20 LPI pyramids to make it less aggressive. I personally prefer 20 LPI.
@@MosinVirus When you checker something does the Lpi of the file make it any easier or more difficult to pull off? I would think the higher the lpi the easier it would be to screw up since there's way more lines and there not as deep??? Have you noticed anything like that with all of your experience???
@@ogsniper743 the shallower the lines the easier it is to mess up, so yes, with finer LPI it gets more difficult to keep the file in the existing lines. But with shallower lines less material is removed so in a way it is faster.
Can you please tell me what brand file you used ?
Here is where I get my checkering files www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx
how many man hours to checker a front strap (for us mere mortals)?
It takes me about 4 hours to produce the trigger guard undercut and checker the front strap. Another hour or so for rear strap if it is straight (not arched). It all kind of depends on vice height, lighting, and LPI.
@@MosinVirus many thanks for the info. Love your work. So you as a master craftman....I will add a factor...so 6 hours for me.
@@markdavidson7510 don't rush it. "Listen" to the file.
Where can I get one of those jigs??
Unfortunately, the one I am using was discontinued a while ago. Brownells and MidwayUSA sell other versions of checkering jigs now.
A nice 👍 I will try this
Thank you. Just go slow.
My friend, I congratulate you on your work. They are excellent. I ask you, would you be so kind as to text me the exact size and file of the file you use to carry out this work? thank you very much.
You can find checkering files in different Lines Per Inch cuts. I prefer 20 and 25 LPI checkering files.
Is the process the same when working with a steel frame?
This is a steel frame.
Hey mosin, what do you call that kind of file? Your hand is like cnc machine, great vids as always.
The file is called a checkering file. They come in different lines per inch cuts.
@@MosinVirus Where do you aquire such a file. Exact classification please!!! You do great work my friend!!!
Ты такую красоту без направляющей делаешь?!!! Мастер! Это твой пистоль или заказ? 👍
Нет, с направляющей конечно. Потом напильник сам себя направляет. Этот мой.
MosinVirus и на оружейных заводах получается тоже вручную или закладывают и автомат производит на.. незнающих как назвать это))
Не знаю точно как на заводах в массовом производстве делают, но думаю что так-же как и по одной на станке.
Вот например: th-cam.com/video/8XBCVfa91-E/w-d-xo.html
MosinVirus очень признателен, что находишь время отвечать на мои вопросы.
MosinVirus по моему глубокому убеждению 1911 самый красивый пистолет, но мощный для средней руки (хотя это на любителя, в какой-то мере и мне .45 ACP по душе). И вот недавно на Ютюб я увидел Беби рок от Рок Исланд под 9х19... Влюбился!!!
А ещё очень нравится CZ 83. Про любовь это конечно аллегория)) , но.. но примерно 5-6 моделей мне по сердцу.
beautiful!
Thank you. I wish I got better camera angles. But the camera would be in my way.
How much does job like this cost?
I don't know what others charge for this, and I am not licensed to receive guns by mail, but the few times I did this at other people's workshops (with the owners present) i charged $200 for trigger guard undercut, front strap checkering and rear strap checkering. It usually takes me 4 hours
where did you get your checkering jig
Justin Whitley I got mine from Brownells. I think it was discontinued a while ago.
MosinVirus thank you sir you do beautiful work.
Are both sides of the file the same?
The LPI is the same on both sides, but the lines may be positioned differently between the sides. For example, one side may have a half tooth on the left and the other on the right. When cutting horizontals I stick to one side of the file for that reason. The other thing I noticed is that the files are not always perfectly flat. Sometimes they are slightly bent. This matters when cutting verticals. And using both sides will make up for that.
MosinVirus thankyou very much , I'll be doing mine soon now
slntscpe my pleasure. Take it slow and good luck. Oh, and wear thick gloves.
MosinVirus sweet , im adding 800 dollars worth of upgrades to a ria 38 super and I subscribed to your channel
slntscpe thank you for subscribing. Hopefully TH-cam doesn't do anything to my channel and my videos dont disappoint. Good luck with the project.
I really hope that you are open for business. I'll be your first customer. Btw. Can this be done on a cz tactical sports? the grip is curvy? thanks
While, yes, it can be done on a curved grip, with a file it would be much more difficult. A milling machine would be a better choice.
MosinVirus ok. Thanks for the info. Can you recommend anyone who does this kind of service? Thanks
@@czts4778 I personally don't know anyone that deals with CZs, and you probably want someone who specializes in CZs so the setup will be shorter. Try asking on one of the CZ forums.
MosinVirus thank you very much
@@czts4778 my pleasure
I hope that you plan on dulling the checkering, so that whoever grips that gun doesn’t poke hundreds of tiny holes in their fingers.
I love 20 lpi. But if that is too aggressive, 25 or 30 lpi can be used.
ouch feels like my fingers are getting stabbed just looking at it. i'm a fan of one direction only serrations
To each their own, of course, but I like aggressive texturing. That one was actually very comfortable to everyone that tried it. What LPI have you tried or do you not like all of them?
Man that's Beutiful.
Thank you very much.
Subscribed
Thank you. I hope the other videos will not disappoint
You should come over and do mine
Where are you located?
@@MosinVirus oregon
@@Hudson4426too far
@@MosinVirus dang 😂
wow
Yes, very doable with checkering files.
@@MosinVirus you inspire me!
@@xdivineHART just trying to show that lots of stuff can be done by hand.
@@MosinVirus oh I'm definitely learning. I thought a lot of gun customization can only be done using machines.
@@xdivineHART check out my Beretta 92 FS conversion to Vertec profile. You may like it too.