You could use that yellow 3M weather stripping adhesive that you can buy at your auto parts store it sticks really good to metal and weather stripping👍
I still haven't opened mine yet. waiting to get all the photos and paint together before starting such an awesome model. But thanks for doing the video so I can see what's inside. Mine was a gift from a friend in the Tokyo fire department. Such brave people. Thanks for the review
Definitely a challenging kit to build. The metal parts really presents issues for assembly for us folks that are used to using model cement and super glue. Good luck with the kit when you decide to build it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Matt, good review. Part #4 are Italian market front side marker lights and the little black strips on the rubber tree are wiper blades. It's a beautifully detailed kit and one of the few Ferrari 250 kits that actually comes with an engine. Cheers!
Hi there, the Italieri 250 SWB, 250 GTO, and 250GT California Spyder all have engines. In fact they all share the exact same sprue with parts for the 250 and 250 GTO engine variants (biggest difference is the carbs are different. It definitely isn't as nicely detailed as this though. Testors, Revell, and Academy all reboxed the italeri 250 california spider kit. I think Testors reboxed the 250 GTO, no one reboxed the SWB. Also TX3dCustoms sells a very nice resin 3d printed 250 GTO engine. It's a little steep at $30 but it's an option :) have a good one.
Extremely nice kit !! I dunno Matt but you may want to consider dedicating this kit to its own bench when you decide to build 😬 Also, just for kicks, it would be interesting to put the finished build on a scale to compare the weight with a standard 1/24 kit ;-) Thanks for the un-boxing and by all means take your time...no need to rush, we will still be here for the fantastic final product 👍
Actually in the case of this Ferrari, those x pipes go between the mufflers and the exhaust tips so they end up ending in 4 tips. Man that kit is awesome! Tedious but awesome!! Well worth the money.
Good luck with this kit. I've had a couple of their less detailed kits and was not impressed with the accuracy, namely the Karmann Ghia and Beetle kits. Sold both for a profit on eBay, so that was ok. You'd think with all the incredible detail, the great cost, and the intimidation of what it will take to finish this kit they would had better tires and seats!
The whole bottom half of that model is metal. I'm looking forward to hearing how the metal parts get assembled as they have to be cleaned of any oils or release agents for any adhesive to bond. This makes painting interesting, paint needs the same thing. So which comes first, the assembly or the paint? I'm going to let you figure that one out Matt. Back in the late 70s I used to buy and build the high end Japanese and Korean kits much to my mom's dismay. There was a hobby shop in Nashville at one of the malls that only carried the good stuff like Marklin trains and Entex kits. I built everything from a Tony Nancy front engine rail dragster to a beautiful large scale model T Ford truck. In there was a huge 32 Ford convertible, a large E Type Jag and a Martini Braham race car. Who knows how many thousands of 70s dollars I spent on them, but what the heck, I was single! The tires on the rail dragster were so soft that the wrinkle-wall slicks wrinkled! Man those were the days! But then girls got involved, I met my bride of 43 years (Dec 5th) and 2 sons. Neither of them adopted my passion for building models. Ah well, enough prattle from an old man. I hope you enjoy building that Ferrari! Cheers Terry
The metal surrounds for the headlight covers are really hard to bend and fit properly. Replicas & Miniatures used to make softer photo-etch replacements, but good luck finding them now. The rest of the kit was great, the wire wheels look nice when properly formed on the supplied plastic buck.
Revival models are also totally metal, even the bodies, and I use CA glue for the ones I've built. You can use a toothpick to put glue on the smaller parts like those Ferrari badges instead of decals. I try not to use accelerator, it turns the CA white, instead of it staying clear. Good luck on that awesome kit!
Hello Matthew ! Long time no see. I think the parts on the rubber tree other than the tires and seats are wiper blades. Amazing details ! Happy New Year !
I plan on building my copy this year. I got a decal set recently of a specific car I wanted to build and they were out of print for quite a while. The guy who designed them ran a small batch and I was fortunate enough to get a set. Beautiful blue car with a yellow nose.
I built a Ferrari Dino and you best bet is to solder the metal parts and then lightly file them smooth. then get some metal primer and then you can prime them just leaving this for some tips to building this kit Matthew.
The Gunze Hi-tech kits are intense. I've never had the money to buy one myself but I've heard the stories from people who have. Those tiny little clear parts #4 are side turn markers. The Testors 250 california spyder has them too I believe and I think I may have lost them during the build.
Use a gel cyanoacrylate applied with a glue loop then soak a Qtip with some accelerator to speed up the gel glue cure rate. Make sure the part is where you want it.
As for glue(s) I'd use a super type for parts that don't need time to align. But, use the Gold type stuff less likely to fog parts. And I'd use a good quality clear 5 minute epoxy for parts that may need to be fiddled with to align.
Matthew I built one of these in the '90s please sit down and take your time and read the instructions not once not twice until you get it memorized those wheels are a pain in the ass please take your time with the chassis that really is awkward to set up right the motor can be done but please take your time with it I cannot emphasize this is not a rush it this is one that needs to be set and worked on when you don't have nothing else on the agenda it is delicate as hell good luck don't want to see this finished in a month this is a half a year or better build
Probably a bit late now but bear in mind certain pieces might actually be white metal which could be poisonous if you put your fingers near your mouth / nose after handling them… looks like quite a kit, I’d be frightened of ruining it.
A uv light works great too. Also I find there are burs after removing the pieces I use a finger nail file to remove them. Works well. Those files have a fine and course side. I've master bare metal foil. I've been building models since 1965. I enjoy your channel. Happy new year. Ron. Thanks.
A use UV glue, don't get it on your fingers, you have time to position the part than super glue, does not set until you use the UV light instant hardness, stronger than super glue, use a tooth pick to apply.
You could use that yellow 3M weather stripping adhesive that you can buy at your auto parts store it sticks really good to metal and weather stripping👍
Very nice kit Matt! Have fun and thanks for sharing!!
This is a beautiful kit. Enjoy building this one Matt!!!
I still haven't opened mine yet. waiting to get all the photos and paint together before starting such an awesome model.
But thanks for doing the video so I can see what's inside. Mine was a gift from a friend in the Tokyo fire department. Such brave people. Thanks for the review
Definitely a challenging kit to build. The metal parts really presents issues for assembly for us folks that are used to using model cement and super glue. Good luck with the kit when you decide to build it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael!!
Awesome Kit, Just build it !
It's an Amazing kit. I'd love to see you build this one. Not easy to find a second one. I'll be watching
Thanks Matt, good review. Part #4 are Italian market front side marker lights and the little black strips on the rubber tree are wiper blades. It's a beautifully detailed kit and one of the few Ferrari 250 kits that actually comes with an engine. Cheers!
Hi there, the Italieri 250 SWB, 250 GTO, and 250GT California Spyder all have engines. In fact they all share the exact same sprue with parts for the 250 and 250 GTO engine variants (biggest difference is the carbs are different. It definitely isn't as nicely detailed as this though. Testors, Revell, and Academy all reboxed the italeri 250 california spider kit. I think Testors reboxed the 250 GTO, no one reboxed the SWB. Also TX3dCustoms sells a very nice resin 3d printed 250 GTO engine. It's a little steep at $30 but it's an option :) have a good one.
Looks like it's a nicely detailed kit!!. The Gunze Sangyo 63 Triumph TR3 I did last summer was a very nicely detailed kit as well...
Awesome kit, hope you have a lot of time for that kit, may take a while. Happy New Year Matthew! Donnie
Extremely nice kit !!
I dunno Matt but you may want to consider dedicating this kit to its own bench when you decide to build 😬
Also, just for kicks, it would be interesting to put the finished build on a scale to compare the weight with a standard 1/24 kit ;-)
Thanks for the un-boxing and by all means take your time...no need to rush, we will still be here for the fantastic final product 👍
Cool looking kit with a ton of detail.........Happy New Year Matthew
Thanks Jeff! Happy New Year!!
Nice unboxing Matt, I think those small lenses are turning indicator lights. Looks like a quality kit that deserves your time. Enjoy the build 🙂
Thanks David!
Happy newyear to you and your family
Thank you! You too!
Those metal pieces that were long and narrow were for the exhaust that go between the headers and the mufflers. Like x pipes.
Actually in the case of this Ferrari, those x pipes go between the mufflers and the exhaust tips so they end up ending in 4 tips. Man that kit is awesome! Tedious but awesome!! Well worth the money.
Good luck with this kit. I've had a couple of their less detailed kits and was not impressed with the accuracy, namely the Karmann Ghia and Beetle kits. Sold both for a profit on eBay, so that was ok. You'd think with all the incredible detail, the great cost, and the intimidation of what it will take to finish this kit they would had better tires and seats!
The whole bottom half of that model is metal. I'm looking forward to hearing how the metal parts get assembled as they have to be cleaned of any oils or release agents for any adhesive to bond. This makes painting interesting, paint needs the same thing. So which comes first, the assembly or the paint? I'm going to let you figure that one out Matt.
Back in the late 70s I used to buy and build the high end Japanese and Korean kits much to my mom's dismay. There was a hobby shop in Nashville at one of the malls that only carried the good stuff like Marklin trains and Entex kits. I built everything from a Tony Nancy front engine rail dragster to a beautiful large scale model T Ford truck. In there was a huge 32 Ford convertible, a large E Type Jag and a Martini Braham race car. Who knows how many thousands of 70s dollars I spent on them, but what the heck, I was single! The tires on the rail dragster were so soft that the wrinkle-wall slicks wrinkled!
Man those were the days! But then girls got involved, I met my bride of 43 years (Dec 5th) and 2 sons. Neither of them adopted my passion for building models.
Ah well, enough prattle from an old man.
I hope you enjoy building that Ferrari!
Cheers
Terry
The metal surrounds for the headlight covers are really hard to bend and fit properly. Replicas & Miniatures used to make softer photo-etch replacements, but good luck finding them now. The rest of the kit was great, the wire wheels look nice when properly formed on the supplied plastic buck.
Revival models are also totally metal, even the bodies, and I use CA glue for the ones I've built. You can use a toothpick to put glue on the smaller parts like those Ferrari badges instead of decals. I try not to use accelerator, it turns the CA white, instead of it staying clear. Good luck on that awesome kit!
Thanks Bruce!
Hello Matthew ! Long time no see. I think the parts on the rubber tree other than the tires and seats are wiper blades. Amazing details ! Happy New Year !
WOW Patrick!! Great to hear from you and yes it's been a while! Happy new year to you as well
I plan on building my copy this year. I got a decal set recently of a specific car I wanted to build and they were out of print for quite a while. The guy who designed them ran a small batch and I was fortunate enough to get a set. Beautiful blue car with a yellow nose.
Nice!
Tamiya makes engraving blades in several sizes from .1 to .5. They’re not cheap but are the best thing I’ve found for working panel lines.
CA for metal to metal and metal to plastic. Make sure the metal is clean before gluing. Several good CA glues available. Starbound one of the best.
Thanks George!
Thanks Bill!
I built a Ferrari Dino and you best bet is to solder the metal parts and then lightly file them smooth. then get some metal primer and then you can prime them just leaving this for some tips to building this kit Matthew.
Great idea!
Be careful some of the white metal parts may be separated front to rear or side to side. But it is a good looking kit. Have fun!
You have to get really good at using super glue, liquid and gell. Great Unboxing.
Thanks Ron!
The Gunze Hi-tech kits are intense. I've never had the money to buy one myself but I've heard the stories from people who have. Those tiny little clear parts #4 are side turn markers. The Testors 250 california spyder has them too I believe and I think I may have lost them during the build.
Use a gel cyanoacrylate applied with a glue loop then soak a Qtip with some accelerator to speed up the gel glue cure rate. Make sure the part is where you want it.
As for glue(s) I'd use a super type for parts that don't need time to align. But, use the Gold type stuff less likely to fog parts. And I'd use a good quality clear 5 minute epoxy for parts that may need to be fiddled with to align.
Great tip!
Matthew I built one of these in the '90s please sit down and take your time and read the instructions not once not twice until you get it memorized those wheels are a pain in the ass please take your time with the chassis that really is awkward to set up right the motor can be done but please take your time with it I cannot emphasize this is not a rush it this is one that needs to be set and worked on when you don't have nothing else on the agenda it is delicate as hell good luck don't want to see this finished in a month this is a half a year or better build
Wise words 👍
Thanks!
Glue the small clear parts with Elmer's white glue
I had that kit ages ago when it was real cheap. If I'd known... 🤣
Probably a bit late now but bear in mind certain pieces might actually be white metal which could be poisonous if you put your fingers near your mouth / nose after handling them… looks like quite a kit, I’d be frightened of ruining it.
A friend of my dad's build a Hubley/ Gabriel Metal Model A Ford kit for him and he used epoxy. Of course that was 30+ years ago.
I have a Fugimi Porsche 917 in Gulf Livery and I feel the same way.
PS on the glue slow setting Super Glue it's out there
You have to be very careful removing the parts. Use a flat cut wire cutters and or a blade. You have to perfectly cut or You will damage the piece.
Of all places I got a pair of excellent flush nippers from the jewelry section at Joann Fabrics.
Thanks!
A uv light works great too. Also I find there are burs after removing the pieces I use a finger nail file to remove them. Works well. Those files have a fine and course side. I've master bare metal foil. I've been building models since 1965. I enjoy your channel. Happy new year. Ron. Thanks.
I'm really good at photo etch..ment to say. Like your haul vid, very cool kits.
Tamiya TS-85 is Ferrari Red you should paint the body. (Bright Mica Red)
Lots of aftermarket decals for just about every 250gto that ever raced including LeMans cars.
A use UV glue, don't get it on your fingers, you have time to position the part than super glue, does not set until you use the UV light instant hardness, stronger than super glue, use a tooth pick to apply.
Be careful painting rubber (seats). Unless you use flat paint, those enamel painted seats will never dry! Maybe acrylics will work.
Build it as a Le Mans car for ACME 2023.
I used liquid with a toothpick. Cannot get it on your fingers. That's the hardest part..
Didn't gunze become model factory hiro?
Sauder or super glue
that is a cool kit but way out of my price range