When you have the head off it’s not a bad idea to remove the valve springs, devise a way to spin the valve in the seat with some valve grinding compound. After-
Take the head into a dark room, press firmly on the valve mimicking it closed and shine a bright light into the intake port and then the exhaust port. If any light is leaking around the valve seat… grind some more. Remember to wash all the compound off as it will destroy the valve guides.
You can check for light leaks before you do anything. You may not need to grind the valves.
that is a good point, after I was finished recording I thought, I forgot to say anything about making sure it it sealed because now the valve and the seat are not mates. I have a valve lapping tool somewhere, but no compound. I thought I should at least have shown how to test it with water to see if it holds water. Still new at recording videos. will get better. thanks for the comment.
The exhaust valve you repaired is on the top and the intake on the bottom. So the aluminum push rod should have gone on the bottom. I am guessing someone before you had them backwards. Thank you for sharing.
You may be right, I will investigate and make a note in the video if I had them reversed, thank you for your help.
Back in the day when I use to replace the Head gasket on flat head Briggs and Stratton engine s I would take the Head gasket and Trace it out on a piece of cardboard in the specific Way to tighten the head bolts
That's always a great idea. These engines are pretty easy to alternate when torquing the head.
if you don't have a feeler gauge - you can use a piece of a pop or beer can - I have done it many times- it works
Hi, yes that will work if you have accidentally loaned your tools to a neighbor or brother in law