Immer wieder super, wie Ihr schöne puristische Motorräder aus den Japsen baut. Die japanischen Großserien-Motorräder haben m.E. immer so was Überladenes, Kitschiges, Plastikhaftes usw. (auch wenn jetzt einige Leute beleidigt sind!).
Also ich bin schon nach dem zweiten Video großer Fan von Euch! Habe mir auch für Heuer vorgenommen, Super Biker Box zu besuchen. Na dann schau ich mal das nächste Video von Dir an! Gruß aus Bayern, Hans
Schön gemacht erstmal. Ich baue ja auch gerade eine RC01 auf. Dass der Motor untenrum nicht soo supi Gas annimmt, liegt vielleicht an den offenen Lufis? Ansonsten, der Rahmen ist nach Abschrauben des Fenders kurz genug; bzw. ist eurer nun vll etwas zu kurz geraten. Sitz-Tank - die Linie sollte idealerweise keinen Knick haben, also entweder Sitz anders anbauen, oder Lackierung ändern.
Ich habe mal eine Frage. Ihr baut immer offene luftfilter ein, mir wurde von mehreren Quellen versichert, dass es unmöglich ist die eingetragen zu bekommen. Ich baue gerade eine Kawasaki kz750 e um. Da ist das einbauen der Gummis zwischen vergaser und luftfilter Kasten eine Tortur deshalb wollte ich umrüsten. Lg
Well it's got a great new paint-job, and I've gotta admit I'm digging what you did with the DIY rear-set brackets. But you haven't done any UPGRADES to the damn thing. It's still got a dinky lil' 35mm fork, puny 276mm front rotors and a heavy 296mm on the rear, 19" front wheel - you've taken off what little fork-brace it had to begin with - and you can't even carry a passenger if you need to in a pinch. So WTF - I mean seriously. Get the front end off an '81 GL1100A Aspencade - 2.50x18" rim, double-thick vented 296mm discs, 39mm fork - ideally you'd swap out the heavier discs for CB1100RB replica 296mm dished one-piece rotors from Metalgear Australia OR the thinner flat single-thickness 296mm 9-rivet composite discs from SOHC - which are normally 6-bolt but the CB750A Hondamatic had a 5-bolt version on it's Comstar front wheel, and you could swap the rear disc for either an early DOHC CB750F one-piece dished rear rotor OR drill out the rivets and swap to the 276mm outer disc ring from GL1000/CB550 - and a caliper hanger from FT500 to match - maybe BOTH even, with the thinner one-piece dished disc and get it cut down to 276mm now THAT would shave off a lot of rear hub weight! There's a 2.75x18" rear Comstar wheel from CBX pro-link ('81-'82 mono-shock type) OR there are the "Boomerang" rims in 2.50x18" & 3.00x18" but for all intents and purposes, they'd only fit the same size of tires, and the 5-point type Comstar wheels weigh less than the Bomerang Comstars - So much as that extra 1/4" might SEEM like it's gonna make a huge difference, you'll still fit the same 130/80 or 140/70 tire on it, but just a little bit ever so slightly more pinched on there - it's hardly even like the difference between 2.15x18" and 2.50x18" rear rims - which is actually .35" when you think about it so of course it's a bigger deal ha-ha. It's really more about what size of tires are available for a given rim size, using this that or the other limits on minimum or maximum rim widths on the manufacturer's recommendation. In THAT regard, there's really no difference 'cause the tire people typically list a 3.00x18" recommended rim with 2.50x18" minimum and 3.50x18" max - sometimes 2.15x18" minimum, 2.50x18" recommended, and 3.00x18" max - they seem to have forgotten all about the 2.75x18" size, so you could think of it as either a slightly wider 2.50" OR as a slightly narrower 3.00" - IF that makes sense? All I'm getting at, is the FIVE-point Comstar rim-set is all the more awesome than the Boomerang Comstar set - plus it's "STEALTH" if you will, 'cause your bike will look just like before, with this slightly more brutish and muscle-bound look about it. That, AND your front end geometry and rear contact patch are substantially improved over the stock configuration. So just don't pay through the nose on Boomerang rims, LEAST of all the CB1100F version with it's 2.50x17" rear wheel not when there's a 3.50x17" Comstar to be had for pennies on the dollar from a much less well-known bike! (CBX750F-II & VF1000F-II "Bol D'Or" models, with the 18" front Boomerang, whereas the ones with the 16" front Boomerang have the 3.00x18" rear - AGAIN, the better set of Boomerang rims comes off of two different bike!. But hey - there's also a whole TON of other stuff to do with lightening the Comstar wheels, Akront "NERVI" rims are 50% lighter than stock rims in the same sizes. That, or a 4.00x17" D.I.D. center-flange Comstar style rim is on the Yamaha Super Tenere, and could be rebuilt onto the 2.50x17" rear Comstar from GL1000, GL1100, and CB750K-DOHC Comstar models. It's gonna be heavy as all get out, 'cause it's a D.I.D. - and you'd be better off looking for an Akront "NERVI" or even an undrilled non-dimpled Akront rim with an added-on flange welded into place. 'Cause at least they're still making rims like that! And if I had my druthers, I'd either use a front wheel on the back, with a bolt-up cush-drive, or replace the hub with a core cut out of a really light-weight modern 5-spoke cast wheel, something dented or cracked of course - Get it machined down to the shape of a hub from a smaller drum hub type Comstar, CB400T CB250N, XBR500 Boomerang type - A wheel like that would blow away anything else in the Classic Superbike races. There's a TON of stuff from Honda models out of the same era, which would just bolt straight up to these bikes, no problem - but which would create the most awesome period-correct upgrades for these bikes! 41mm TRAC forks from the likes of VF1000R (one leg TRAC, 276mm discs, 15mm axle - kinda sucks, but the YOKES are still 41mm and it's got some fantastic adjustable clip-on bars!) the GL1200 which has either 276mm OR 296mm discs, has TRAC on both sides, has the integral fork-brace, and the 15mm front axle which fits the Comstar wheel's stock bearings but still sucks 'cause it's the same size of axle as the 1961 250cc Honda - yet all sorts of other more successful racing type 250cc bikes of that era were already bumping up to 17mm and 20mm axles - The GL1500 has the 20mm axle, the 41mm tubes and the dual-TRAC AND the 296mm discs AND the integral fork-brace - But you'd still want the alloy yokes and clip-on bars from the VF1000R if you can get away with it. Then again, these here VF1000R bars are pretty damn heavy IMHO - might just switch 'em out for this other pair with the cheapo bar clamp, and a carbon-fiber bar OR an alloy bar with a slight bend in it which could swivel around and make 'em adjustable (they'd give the same degree of USEFUL adjustment range anyhow) - All put together, mix-&-match - you could build some really great stuff - basically the bike which Honda SHOULD'VE built back in '79-'83, if they'd had all the "cards" on the table in front of them. Or rather, they DID build bikes such as I'm describing, the ENDURANCE RACERS - the RCB, the RS1000 - now those are the bikes which we should all strive to emulate with a DOHC-4 Honda build! And, to a lesser extent, the AMA Superbike racers from North America's AHM the bikes which John Woo, Wayne Gardner, and oh yeah - Fred Spencer, rode to glory and fame. Which is to say - Get all of that BRIT-BIKE crap out of your head - There's plenty of beautiful retro beauty within HONDA motorcycles alone, the little twins of the late '50s & early '60s - the RC series racers of the early-mid to late-mid slash mid-late '60s - THAT'S where the key to a truly beautiful Honda Cafe Racer lies - In the coffee shops alongside the test tracks at Yokohama, not your local Starbucks and definitely not in some lame English greasy-spoon....
Build one by yourself, man! In UK or US you have so much more freedom in customizing we Krauts can only dream of! So get your ass in your own workshop and start your own fucking project! The Rhön will welcome you when you're done!
I don't understand the language ,but i do understand the enthusiasm and the love of motorcycles,and that's why i love to watch your videos...
Spitze ! 🏁🏆🍀✌️
Immer wieder super, wie Ihr schöne puristische Motorräder aus den Japsen baut. Die japanischen Großserien-Motorräder haben m.E. immer so was Überladenes, Kitschiges, Plastikhaftes usw. (auch wenn jetzt einige Leute beleidigt sind!).
Ist schon geil! Wird aber durch Euch noch geiler!!
Das Heck sieht natürlich auch geil aus. Klassische Geschichte.
Tolles Bike Stefan. Irgendwann schau ich bei Euch vorbei.
Eure Videos sind spitze...besonders "drücke mal druff"
Wie immer Super arbeit ihr Seid Der Burner 💯👍👍👌👌👌👌..
Vielen Dank 😊👍
Also ich bin schon nach dem zweiten Video großer Fan von Euch! Habe mir auch für Heuer vorgenommen, Super Biker Box zu besuchen. Na dann schau ich mal das nächste Video von Dir an! Gruß aus Bayern, Hans
Mir Ging Es ebenso Nach 1 Video . Denke Liegt am Namen Hexenküche 👍👍🤘🤣🏁💯 🐖geile Bikes.. weiter soo ..
Der Sound ist der Wahnsinn.
Ich mag Leute aus der alten Schule, die beim anheften, das zu schweissende Teil mit der nackten Hand halten 😁
... und ohne Spiegel 😁
wie gerne würde ich mit meiner Honda zu euch kommen.
Absolut geiles Ding! Gute Arbeit Männer!
❤Honda cb750
Schön gemacht erstmal.
Ich baue ja auch gerade eine RC01 auf.
Dass der Motor untenrum nicht soo supi Gas annimmt, liegt vielleicht an den offenen Lufis?
Ansonsten, der Rahmen ist nach Abschrauben des Fenders kurz genug; bzw. ist eurer nun vll etwas zu kurz geraten.
Sitz-Tank - die Linie sollte idealerweise keinen Knick haben, also entweder Sitz anders anbauen, oder Lackierung ändern.
Was ein Hammer Teil!!
Geil...super Arbeit !!
Hey, schöne alte Mopeds baut Ihr da um, würde mir auch gerne so was zulegen. Sind die Umbauten eigentlich alle mit TÜV?
Ja alles mit TÜV
und wie ?????
Hi Jungs ! Respekt schönes Teil. Könnt ihr mir vllt. verraten welche Batterie ihr verwendet habt ?
Ich habe mal eine Frage.
Ihr baut immer offene luftfilter ein, mir wurde von mehreren Quellen versichert, dass es unmöglich ist die eingetragen zu bekommen. Ich baue gerade eine Kawasaki kz750 e um. Da ist das einbauen der Gummis zwischen vergaser und luftfilter Kasten eine Tortur deshalb wollte ich umrüsten. Lg
Sieht gut aus
I love those rims what are this rims called
Richtig geiles ding
Was kostet so ein Umbau denn bei dir?
hallo meine freunde,
wie kann ich bei einer Kawasaki kz750gt Bj.86 ofene luft filter beim TÜV anmelden?
ist das machtbar, was soll ich macen?
lg. nico
hammer!
Well it's got a great new paint-job, and I've gotta admit I'm digging what you did with the DIY rear-set brackets. But you haven't done any UPGRADES to the damn thing. It's still got a dinky lil' 35mm fork, puny 276mm front rotors and a heavy 296mm on the rear, 19" front wheel - you've taken off what little fork-brace it had to begin with - and you can't even carry a passenger if you need to in a pinch. So WTF - I mean seriously. Get the front end off an '81 GL1100A Aspencade - 2.50x18" rim, double-thick vented 296mm discs, 39mm fork - ideally you'd swap out the heavier discs for CB1100RB replica 296mm dished one-piece rotors from Metalgear Australia OR the thinner flat single-thickness 296mm 9-rivet composite discs from SOHC - which are normally 6-bolt but the CB750A Hondamatic had a 5-bolt version on it's Comstar front wheel, and you could swap the rear disc for either an early DOHC CB750F one-piece dished rear rotor OR drill out the rivets and swap to the 276mm outer disc ring from GL1000/CB550 - and a caliper hanger from FT500 to match - maybe BOTH even, with the thinner one-piece dished disc and get it cut down to 276mm now THAT would shave off a lot of rear hub weight! There's a 2.75x18" rear Comstar wheel from CBX pro-link ('81-'82 mono-shock type) OR there are the "Boomerang" rims in 2.50x18" & 3.00x18" but for all intents and purposes, they'd only fit the same size of tires, and the 5-point type Comstar wheels weigh less than the Bomerang Comstars - So much as that extra 1/4" might SEEM like it's gonna make a huge difference, you'll still fit the same 130/80 or 140/70 tire on it, but just a little bit ever so slightly more pinched on there - it's hardly even like the difference between 2.15x18" and 2.50x18" rear rims - which is actually .35" when you think about it so of course it's a bigger deal ha-ha. It's really more about what size of tires are available for a given rim size, using this that or the other limits on minimum or maximum rim widths on the manufacturer's recommendation. In THAT regard, there's really no difference 'cause the tire people typically list a 3.00x18" recommended rim with 2.50x18" minimum and 3.50x18" max - sometimes 2.15x18" minimum, 2.50x18" recommended, and 3.00x18" max - they seem to have forgotten all about the 2.75x18" size, so you could think of it as either a slightly wider 2.50" OR as a slightly narrower 3.00" - IF that makes sense? All I'm getting at, is the FIVE-point Comstar rim-set is all the more awesome than the Boomerang Comstar set - plus it's "STEALTH" if you will, 'cause your bike will look just like before, with this slightly more brutish and muscle-bound look about it. That, AND your front end geometry and rear contact patch are substantially improved over the stock configuration. So just don't pay through the nose on Boomerang rims, LEAST of all the CB1100F version with it's 2.50x17" rear wheel not when there's a 3.50x17" Comstar to be had for pennies on the dollar from a much less well-known bike! (CBX750F-II & VF1000F-II "Bol D'Or" models, with the 18" front Boomerang, whereas the ones with the 16" front Boomerang have the 3.00x18" rear - AGAIN, the better set of Boomerang rims comes off of two different bike!. But hey - there's also a whole TON of other stuff to do with lightening the Comstar wheels, Akront "NERVI" rims are 50% lighter than stock rims in the same sizes. That, or a 4.00x17" D.I.D. center-flange Comstar style rim is on the Yamaha Super Tenere, and could be rebuilt onto the 2.50x17" rear Comstar from GL1000, GL1100, and CB750K-DOHC Comstar models. It's gonna be heavy as all get out, 'cause it's a D.I.D. - and you'd be better off looking for an Akront "NERVI" or even an undrilled non-dimpled Akront rim with an added-on flange welded into place. 'Cause at least they're still making rims like that! And if I had my druthers, I'd either use a front wheel on the back, with a bolt-up cush-drive, or replace the hub with a core cut out of a really light-weight modern 5-spoke cast wheel, something dented or cracked of course - Get it machined down to the shape of a hub from a smaller drum hub type Comstar, CB400T CB250N, XBR500 Boomerang type - A wheel like that would blow away anything else in the Classic Superbike races. There's a TON of stuff from Honda models out of the same era, which would just bolt straight up to these bikes, no problem - but which would create the most awesome period-correct upgrades for these bikes! 41mm TRAC forks from the likes of VF1000R (one leg TRAC, 276mm discs, 15mm axle - kinda sucks, but the YOKES are still 41mm and it's got some fantastic adjustable clip-on bars!) the GL1200 which has either 276mm OR 296mm discs, has TRAC on both sides, has the integral fork-brace, and the 15mm front axle which fits the Comstar wheel's stock bearings but still sucks 'cause it's the same size of axle as the 1961 250cc Honda - yet all sorts of other more successful racing type 250cc bikes of that era were already bumping up to 17mm and 20mm axles - The GL1500 has the 20mm axle, the 41mm tubes and the dual-TRAC AND the 296mm discs AND the integral fork-brace - But you'd still want the alloy yokes and clip-on bars from the VF1000R if you can get away with it. Then again, these here VF1000R bars are pretty damn heavy IMHO - might just switch 'em out for this other pair with the cheapo bar clamp, and a carbon-fiber bar OR an alloy bar with a slight bend in it which could swivel around and make 'em adjustable (they'd give the same degree of USEFUL adjustment range anyhow) - All put together, mix-&-match - you could build some really great stuff - basically the bike which Honda SHOULD'VE built back in '79-'83, if they'd had all the "cards" on the table in front of them. Or rather, they DID build bikes such as I'm describing, the ENDURANCE RACERS - the RCB, the RS1000 - now those are the bikes which we should all strive to emulate with a DOHC-4 Honda build! And, to a lesser extent, the AMA Superbike racers from North America's AHM the bikes which John Woo, Wayne Gardner, and oh yeah - Fred Spencer, rode to glory and fame. Which is to say - Get all of that BRIT-BIKE crap out of your head - There's plenty of beautiful retro beauty within HONDA motorcycles alone, the little twins of the late '50s & early '60s - the RC series racers of the early-mid to late-mid slash mid-late '60s - THAT'S where the key to a truly beautiful Honda Cafe Racer lies - In the coffee shops alongside the test tracks at Yokohama, not your local Starbucks and definitely not in some lame English greasy-spoon....
:D :D keinen interessierts.
Build one by yourself, man! In UK or US you have so much more freedom in customizing we Krauts can only dream of! So get your ass in your own workshop and start your own fucking project! The Rhön will welcome you when you're done!
Also ich mag das net ohne Seitendeckel. Natürlich selbst gebaute.
Woh Bremsxheiben so sicher ,,,
Mit ein paar Zierstreifen auf dem Tank wär sie perfekt
So wirds gemacht. Aber die Tanklackierung? Neeneenee