Key to redpoint training - How I trained for one of Australia's hardest routes

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 130

  • @MythAvatar
    @MythAvatar ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Absolutely psyched for you Tom! You fucking did it! Really hope the strong ones come over and try it and we can see everyone doing it.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      There’s certainly some strong ones here in Aust too. But yes, would be rad to see Aust climbing become part of the outdoor scene for the top global climbers. I think there’s certainly a few more hard projects to make happen

  • @DeltaHedra
    @DeltaHedra ปีที่แล้ว +12

    Thanks Tom, this was very helpful and descriptive! It's always useful when people speak about straightforward training plans honestly that are applied consistently and with intent. Sometimes it seems like there is a lot of chaff out there designed with the intent to sell you something, a certain company who have created a garden trellis comes to mind. This channel and Dave Macleod are two of the best to learn from I think when it comes to honest and useful training advice!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Simple is best I think. It reduces friction and makes what can be an uncomfortable experience (getting pumped, hanging weights off your harness) a bit easier 😀

  • @yuval1302
    @yuval1302 ปีที่แล้ว

    Always awesome to feed off your psyche! Keep the psyche train rolling!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Psyched to hear you enjoy it mate. Keen to keep the Froth Train rollin’ 😀

  • @DanA-bt7dr
    @DanA-bt7dr ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Congrats! I like the point of simplicity. I feel like there's a lot of over scientific (and pseudo-scientific) stuff going on in the climbing community. And the main takeaway I'm seeing is to train specifically for your project. I haven't been trying super hard this season nor do I have an ongoing project (except a spray wall proj I put down), but this was useful as I have been struggling with the balance feeling like I'm wasting money not going to the gym and losing strength versus not getting out to the crag/fatigue as I have shown up with sore arms this season. Looking forward to the board vid, cheers!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yep, simple is best. And I totally get you on the balance of time on cliff vs training. It’s tricky. Good luck finding it 😀. My go to is ‘if the weathers good, go climbing’

  • @HenriBorov
    @HenriBorov ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Congrats, keen to see the video! Also, would be cool to see a home board setting / building / setup video!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Definitely a few of them on the way 🥳

  • @Petitgaaateau
    @Petitgaaateau ปีที่แล้ว

    I love that you included TRX in a mega practical way.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      I love the TRX for how practical and versatile they are. The best

  • @biorapid0073
    @biorapid0073 ปีที่แล้ว

    I used to do those reach throughs years ago, so good for steep routes.
    This send footy has got to be the most anticipated 60 seconds in Australian climbing history!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha that’s a funny concept. So keen to share it. Hopefully just a few weeks away

  • @martinwolczyk891
    @martinwolczyk891 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Congratulations 🥳

  • @IronGland
    @IronGland ปีที่แล้ว

    Hell yeah man! Hearing that you've sent your project has made me super happy

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks mate. It‘s a huge weight off my shoulders haha

  • @user-bx4zq7fx7e
    @user-bx4zq7fx7e ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Love how specific this is!
    You’re super strong but I feel like I can still learn a lot from you, so thanks :)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Awesome :). Glad you're getting something out of it. It's fun to share it :)

  • @Sway___SD
    @Sway___SD ปีที่แล้ว +1

    your content never fails to get me incredibly psyched! stoked for the send video :D

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Ahh awesome. Psyched to hear that ✌️. Can’t wait to share it with you

  • @saxongoold7832
    @saxongoold7832 ปีที่แล้ว

    So sick! Can't wait for the send vid!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Can't wait to get it all together to share :)

  • @AnfyRyRy
    @AnfyRyRy ปีที่แล้ว

    Never stop uploading videos! They’re too good :)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha sounds good! Psyched you enjoy them 😀✌️

  • @banksiaspinulosa7442
    @banksiaspinulosa7442 ปีที่แล้ว

    Incredible achievement Tom. Thanks for representing Aussie climbing.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha thanks. Just having fun and share the journey 😀

  • @ArtZ00
    @ArtZ00 ปีที่แล้ว

    🎉🎉🎉 congratulations on the send!!!
    Love the low key new woody reveal

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Haha yep just a little teaser. Can’t wait to finish it off!!

  • @craigjerrells647
    @craigjerrells647 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congratulations!! That’s awesome

  • @Lycian17
    @Lycian17 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congrats on the send! Well deserved! And very helpful video, not too detailed, but it helps understand your structure and the reasoning behind it.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks mate. Glad it could add some value for you :)

  • @LukeRockCimber
    @LukeRockCimber ปีที่แล้ว

    Sick send! Can't wait to see some home wall footage!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Super psyched to share the woody and shed videos. So much coolness to share 😀

  • @stevemiller1937
    @stevemiller1937 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dude! Great work, Tom! Looking forward to the send video.
    Keep it up :)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you. Can’t wait to share the send vid plus everything else to come 😀

  • @HeyUTV
    @HeyUTV ปีที่แล้ว

    great stuff Tom, really cool to see your thinking process that led to the send.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      thanks mate. it took a long time to get there. feels good it's all over :)

  • @philipbarker6562
    @philipbarker6562 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congratulations! That's awesome! And thanks for another well made, super engaging video. I really like that you make it educational as well as fun to watch. Legend!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ahh thanks Philip. I appreciate that. It's always fun sharing this stuff

  • @simonc5392
    @simonc5392 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congrats buddy!!!

  • @stevanpopovic7459
    @stevanpopovic7459 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congrats on the send! Finish up that board fast, I love the spray wall content :)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Haha I can’t wait to get the board finished. Its so close!

  • @schluppvomgrunenstern7394
    @schluppvomgrunenstern7394 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome video and I like your honesty, that you don't know which grade it is and asked for "help" from Schubert, Megos or Ondra.
    But anyway, congrats for finishing your longterm project.🎉👍
    P.S. I can come over and fail for the next 29 years, if it helps? 😉

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha it may help. Worth a shot probably :)

  • @vibearc882
    @vibearc882 ปีที่แล้ว

    This was a great video, really creates a feel for this project and your mentality throughout. Well done again, keep pushing, bro 👏

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks mate. Psyched to hear that. ✌️

  • @billbegg1139
    @billbegg1139 ปีที่แล้ว

    On ya Tom. Excellent news and I love self analysis of your training plan.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Awesome. Psyched to hear you enjoyed it mate

  • @drtimoneill
    @drtimoneill ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome, awesome video Tom!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks mate. Psyched to hear you enjoyed it ✌️😀

  • @dominicyau9005
    @dominicyau9005 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    🎉 Congratulations on the send!! Looking forward to new board content too! What does a rest day actually look like for you? Is it important for you to strictly do nothing climbing related or is it supplemental training etc…

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Yep, nothing. This is partly intentional to just have a switch off and rest. And partly necessary because of after school activities with my daughter, spending undistracted time with my partner and just generally keeping normal life running smoothly. I like balance.

  • @danielnowakowski2068
    @danielnowakowski2068 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congratulations :) Luv watching your vidoes buddy, keep them coming and stay motivated for the next fat project ;)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Psyched to hear you enjoy them. Thank you. Already on the next projects 😀. The weight off the shoulders having done it is awesome. So many more things I want to climb

  • @sweatypads
    @sweatypads ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing effort again Tom. Just shows the power of consistency and specificity. You’re a true inspiration mate, on to the next one !

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ahh thanks mate. Yeah a bit of stubbornness and psyche will get you through most things

  • @danwest8914
    @danwest8914 ปีที่แล้ว

    Solid as always large man

  • @ABDILLASOUR
    @ABDILLASOUR ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome stuff 👍👍

  • @joshworley4228
    @joshworley4228 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good stuff Tom! Looking forward to the video/analysis of the project send!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Can’t wait to share everything with you

  • @jcrotty18
    @jcrotty18 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good on ya, mate! Enjoyed the video and break down on the approach to slaying the beast.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha thank you. It feels great to have it done and start think about new projects 😀

  • @matthewchrobbins
    @matthewchrobbins ปีที่แล้ว

    Congratulations and amazing work getting the send Tom. As always... great, practical, down to earth advice!
    PS: Having done an FFA this year that really pushed me, your comment on having no perspective or reference point on the grade hit home. What-ever grade Hump Of Trouble ends up being, stoked to see the sport getting pushed forward in Aus. 👏

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks mate. What a rollercoaster that experience is hey. So rewarding though :)

  • @mauriziom989
    @mauriziom989 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome bruh!! Where is that sick spray wall??

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      It’s the local community training wall. Blackheath Bouldering.

  • @lachlancr1
    @lachlancr1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good stuff as usual Tom, love the insights!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks mate. Psyched you got something out of it. Always fun to share 😀

  • @monkechug6501
    @monkechug6501 ปีที่แล้ว

    Cheers Tom! Have you tried Ryan's new proposed 36? And if so are you able to confidently say Hump might be harder?
    Congrats on the send!!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I haven’t yet. Would love to though. We spoken about the two routes. Be psyched to see him on Hump of Trouble.

  • @rjt361
    @rjt361 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome work Tom! Great to hear all the hard work paid off 🙌

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you. It was a crazy journey, but awesome to have it done :)

  • @biggertigger
    @biggertigger ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome.

  • @imf424
    @imf424 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Tom, thanks for the great content. I was wondering if you did any climbing exercises/ prehrab/rehab on your rest days. Thanks again.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. Glad you enjoy it 😀. Nope, nothing extra on rest days. It’s a rest day 😀

  • @paulmitchell5349
    @paulmitchell5349 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good effort and a very empirical training regime. You could go over to Europe and try their grades and compare ?

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Would love to get over again sometime soon. But between work and other bits, it gets tricky to find the time 😀

  • @comptonstills
    @comptonstills ปีที่แล้ว

    It’s great to see how you trained to get this done!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Glad you enjoyed 😀✌️

    • @comptonstills
      @comptonstills ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TomOHalloranAus helpful in how to structure my training 👍🏽 I’d love to take some shots of you on the route

  • @chrissellers4519
    @chrissellers4519 ปีที่แล้ว

    Legend.... Great stuff

  • @joolsgrommers1466
    @joolsgrommers1466 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fully buzzin!! Fully f*ing buzzin!!! Good insight into the process too. What was the deciding trigger that made you switch? Achieved benchmark, or ‘only X days left’? Something like that?

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks mate. No trigger really, just happened to be the day. Just pulled on, felt good and went to the top haha

    • @joolsgrommers1466
      @joolsgrommers1466 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TomOHalloranAus Sorry, I meant when you decided to switch to RP attempts from the ground.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@joolsgrommers1466 ahh, im not sure really. I was going for link sections, then it just became apparent that I should just start seeing how far I could go. it would've been half way through season 2. season 1 was almost entirely beta finding.

  • @timmayer574
    @timmayer574 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well done; an amazing send for sure. I absolutely loved the breakdown. I’m getting close to sending a PB, so it was great timing, in particular with the mental approach. Staying motivated, and knowing what to train at the right time, in order to keep the self belief and competence to send it, is really tough. Would love to see more videos on this, especially on these shorter routes like this.

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, it’s so tricky to get all the pieces lined up for the send. My theory is an analytical flow. Let the process run its course, but be deliberate in the direction. Easier said than done, but just keep doing your best😀

  • @ilian7646
    @ilian7646 ปีที่แล้ว

    really great stuff here ! keep it up dude you're inspiring

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha thank you. I appreciate that 😀✌️

  • @davidbecker54
    @davidbecker54 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is awesome to see in-season training! I feel like often times that part of the equation is left out of most climber's explanation of training. If you were climbing 2 days on the project over a given week, what would the make-up and focus of the week look like?

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Same thing. Not complicated. Early stages one day is ‘training’ on the route. Run laps on sections, feel tired from a big session earlier in the week. Another day is high quality of proper link attemptsz Even if you’re not up to big links, trying to just climb well in it is great. Then when you’re close, high quality attempts feeling fresh. Reduce the mega sessions so you’re not as fatigued and give the proj everything 😀

  • @philsnev
    @philsnev ปีที่แล้ว

    How long till we get to see the send mate?!?! Suspense is killing me

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hahah tell me about it. It’s coming. Life, work etc has gotten in the way for the last weeks. Hopefully you won’t need to wait much longer

  • @V8chump
    @V8chump ปีที่แล้ว

    Did you fully construct that board on your own or is is a prebuilt thing you just have to assemble? I’d like to make my own but the bolt spacing seems like it might be a pain in the ass to get perfect…. 😅

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      I've made it myself. Bolt spacing is easy. Use a chalk string line to mark out, then drill. My spacings are 200m apart horizontal. 100mm apart vertical

  • @edanner93
    @edanner93 ปีที่แล้ว

    is that 2nd board session considered your capacity session? Congrats on the send been watching your channel for a bit now!

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      no. the 15-25 moves session is my capacity/endurance session. the second board session is a bit more about power drain than forearm drain

    • @edanner93
      @edanner93 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah. I re watched that part just now not sure how I missed that. Thanks tons of good info in this one! @@TomOHalloranAus

  • @tomscott8929
    @tomscott8929 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congrats on the send!
    How's the 50 X 26+ routes goal tracking?

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I’ll have to check, but I’m on track. Halfway through the year and done about 26 I think? Now that this is over, I have plenty more days freed up for other climbing. I’ve loved the challenge so much

  • @senorblondie
    @senorblondie ปีที่แล้ว

    Props on the send, well done 👊🏼
    Is your new wall about 63°?? 🤔

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks mate. Super psyched! Board is 46 degrees

    • @senorblondie
      @senorblondie ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TomOHalloranAus Nice. It looks a lot steeper than 46°. Half of my wall is 47°. I went for a 45° but my carpentry skills aren't quite there 😁

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Haha I actually thought the same when I set the camera up. ‘Gee that looks steep!’ Haha yeah I was aiming for 45, but doing it myself made it tricky, plus there was a thing in the way in the roof where I was fixing it off too. Gave me little option haha

  • @LemonLimeFlavoured
    @LemonLimeFlavoured ปีที่แล้ว

    will this training program work for my 7a project as well? ...

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Worth a shot. There truly isn’t much difference between a training for 9a vs 7a. Gradual overload of relevant stimulus. Pretty simple 😀

  • @AndrewRileypieceofthepie
    @AndrewRileypieceofthepie ปีที่แล้ว

    How did you train to cope with all that short-roping? 🙃

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It’s the nature of very fast clips. If the rope were there ready to go and I fell, I’d deck.

  • @bigdog5112
    @bigdog5112 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a beast

  • @lucaa4480
    @lucaa4480 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you not reccomend to climb/train every day?

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Not really, no. Going hard too many days in a row will lead to injury. Doing something everyday that’s sustainable is potentially a waste of time and skin because you may be able to achieve the same result from half as much time. Plus I and I’m sure many others, have way too many other commitments in general life to be able to even have the time to train everyday

    • @lucaa4480
      @lucaa4480 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TomOHalloranAus thanks for the reply, gold luck for your climbing projects 💪🏼

  • @emanuellealschafer4960
    @emanuellealschafer4960 ปีที่แล้ว

    ze man ze legend

  • @xavierx93
    @xavierx93 ปีที่แล้ว

    I think you mean "Pink point" with preplaced protection (draws)

    • @TomOHalloranAus
      @TomOHalloranAus  ปีที่แล้ว

      haha sure :). that would be technically accurate

    • @DanA-bt7dr
      @DanA-bt7dr ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TomOHalloranAus It's an ongoing debate, but "pinkpoint" is considered outdated by some. Ondra (and other elite climbers) are counting onsights with pre-placed draws so I think redpoint is fine.