Anvils have the unique property of drawing other anvils to them. Once you get one, you will find, buy or be gifted more. Once that happens, set up your anvils at different heights, if possible. Your main at the normal height, another large one for using tools set lower, and any small ones you acquire set them up much taller for detail work on small stuff. Just my opinion, thanks for the video Dan. Love what you do, brother!
I use pretty much all of the techniques Dan gave in this instructional. I've 2 blown rotator cuffs, tendonitis, and arthritis in both hands. Using this technique, I can pretty much hammer all day (except when the weather changes drastically).
Its great to see someone "teaching" if at very least mentioning technique in smiting occurred before you tube! It shocks people or at very least I get a dead pan look during a forging class where I have a custom forging hammer, a Ball pein and a farrier rounding hammer and tell them to point out the forging hammer where I then take the ball pein and commence forging quite nicely. I have a use and a reason for them all. When I was apprenticing full time in a full time shop, Hofi and Tom Clark style hammers and techniques was the thing which is a very different grip then your pinky style grip. My near 17 years of smithing, countless demos and I learned something that made sense id never been shown so there is ANOTHER technique in my arsenal. TY for that. There is no one way, one should use EVERYway on needs in each situation.
I was taught that tapping the hammer on the anvil was to clear the hammer face of scale. Nice to see a different perspective. Look forward to seeing you dressing your anvil, mine really is only fit for a (very heavy) door stop,but alas, it's what I've got as can't afford another. Can't wait for your next live demo. Regards to Alex & Basil (Brush).
Very awesome topic. We are all made different so looking at various safe hammering techniques we can then develop our technique to fit our unique personal frame. Thank you
my most used hammer is 2 1/2 pounds, but i think 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds is about right for most people ,i only use a 3 or 4 pounder to move heavy stock and only for a short time (it really hard on the elbow) thats where the tire hammers comes in. and your right about handle length tip of middle finger to crook of elbow ,and it creates more momentum and downward force with a lighter hammer. thanks
Great video. One can apply the concepts to most styles of hammering. If you can’t take this advice because your style is so different you are likely hurting yourself. I have found that it is most important for me to think about these things constantly while I’m forging. If I find myself getting tired, feeling the start of blisters, making bad hammer marks in the piece, etc., it usually means that my technique has fallen apart. If you are constantly paying attention to those details and correcting your hammer swing your forging improves significantly! The insight about using the pinky and ring finger was a new way to look at it for me. Thanks for the insights.
Ok hold the Press this is very much like the Martial Art I studied, Yanagi Ryu Aiki Jujitsu. Before the Menji restoration the Suka or Handle of the sword was measured; Bent wrist with Suba or Guard touching index finger and the Kashira or Pommel stops at the elboe. And we hold with the two small fingers. I just played the video for two seconds and you said you studied Kendo. That makes sense now. Thanks Daniel.
Good video Dan. That's the classic farrier swing and IMHO there's no better technique. It moves metal the best AND is the least likely to cause injury. Good looking out!
Good info man great video. I like the hammer that is nice looking I have one just like it 😎 good info cuz nobody likes to be injured especially if you don't know that you're doing something that could
Good video Dan, and I agree completely about the 'flick' as you describe it. It's a very energy efficient way of increasing the hammer heads speed, which ups it's kinetic energy by a factor of 4 to 1. Double the speed, quadruple the energy. If you're equipment is capable, try recording a hammer strike on hot steel in slow motion. I had a film crew shoot some high speed stuff (stock footage for a documentary) at my old shop and it was a real eye opener. I think the results would surprise you with regard to rebound (and what the steel itself does, it's pretty bloody cool). Although there's enough rebound to break the moment of inertia it's not enough to save you from the need to lever up the hammer head, it's just it's so quick we often miss it/get used to doing it and don't factor it in. Sorry I missed the last live stream, when's the next?
Right on dude, that was some good information. I hadn't thought of varying the anvil hight to asccount for tooling. And honestly I thought we were the only ones that noticed you sniffing the steel lol. Gonna have a go in the morning with this technique and see how it feels.
I'm still trying to find my swing. It's hard to concentrate (as a newbie) on my swing when I intensely focus on the forging at hand. I assume as muscle memory matures, I can start paying attention to my swing. Or just whack wood?
Anvils have the unique property of drawing other anvils to them. Once you get one, you will find, buy or be gifted more.
Once that happens, set up your anvils at different heights, if possible. Your main at the normal height, another large one for using tools set lower, and any small ones you acquire set them up much taller for detail work on small stuff.
Just my opinion, thanks for the video Dan. Love what you do, brother!
lots of good points mate. The biggest things for me are the death grip and putting my thumb resting atop the handle.
I use pretty much all of the techniques Dan gave in this instructional.
I've 2 blown rotator cuffs, tendonitis, and arthritis in both hands. Using this technique, I can pretty much hammer all day (except when the weather changes drastically).
Its great to see someone "teaching" if at very least mentioning technique in smiting occurred before you tube!
It shocks people or at very least I get a dead pan look during a forging class where I have a custom forging hammer, a Ball pein and a farrier rounding hammer and tell them to point out the forging hammer where I then take the ball pein and commence forging quite nicely. I have a use and a reason for them all.
When I was apprenticing full time in a full time shop, Hofi and Tom Clark style hammers and techniques was the thing which is a very different grip then your pinky style grip. My near 17 years of smithing, countless demos and I learned something that made sense id never been shown so there is ANOTHER technique in my arsenal. TY for that. There is no one way, one should use EVERYway on needs in each situation.
Cool stuff man. I have shoulder issues, yet the hammer makes it feel better. Different cause. Anyways....thanks Dan.
Explanation right out of the farriers handbook.. Great job!
I was taught that tapping the hammer on the anvil was to clear the hammer face of scale. Nice to see a different perspective. Look forward to seeing you dressing your anvil, mine really is only fit for a (very heavy) door stop,but alas, it's what I've got as can't afford another. Can't wait for your next live demo. Regards to Alex & Basil (Brush).
It would be nice to see all those styles of hammering stacked up against each other, looking forward to it.
Very awesome topic. We are all made different so looking at various safe hammering techniques we can then develop our technique to fit our unique personal frame. Thank you
my most used hammer is 2 1/2 pounds, but i think 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds is about right for most people ,i only use a 3 or 4 pounder to move heavy stock and only for a short time (it really hard on the elbow) thats where the tire hammers comes in. and your right about handle length tip of middle finger to crook of elbow ,and it creates more momentum and downward force with a lighter hammer. thanks
Great video. One can apply the concepts to most styles of hammering. If you can’t take this advice because your style is so different you are likely hurting yourself. I have found that it is most important for me to think about these things constantly while I’m forging. If I find myself getting tired, feeling the start of blisters, making bad hammer marks in the piece, etc., it usually means that my technique has fallen apart. If you are constantly paying attention to those details and correcting your hammer swing your forging improves significantly!
The insight about using the pinky and ring finger was a new way to look at it for me. Thanks for the insights.
Ok hold the Press this is very much like the Martial Art I studied, Yanagi Ryu Aiki Jujitsu. Before the Menji restoration the Suka or Handle of the sword was measured; Bent wrist with Suba or Guard touching index finger and the Kashira or Pommel stops at the elboe. And we hold with the two small fingers. I just played the video for two seconds and you said you studied Kendo. That makes sense now. Thanks Daniel.
Thanks Dan, good information.
Good video Dan. That's the classic farrier swing and IMHO there's no better technique. It moves metal the best AND is the least likely to cause injury. Good looking out!
I needed this video
Good info man great video. I like the hammer that is nice looking I have one just like it 😎 good info cuz nobody likes to be injured especially if you don't know that you're doing something that could
Good video Dan, and I agree completely about the 'flick' as you describe it. It's a very energy efficient way of increasing the hammer heads speed, which ups it's kinetic energy by a factor of 4 to 1. Double the speed, quadruple the energy. If you're equipment is capable, try recording a hammer strike on hot steel in slow motion. I had a film crew shoot some high speed stuff (stock footage for a documentary) at my old shop and it was a real eye opener. I think the results would surprise you with regard to rebound (and what the steel itself does, it's pretty bloody cool). Although there's enough rebound to break the moment of inertia it's not enough to save you from the need to lever up the hammer head, it's just it's so quick we often miss it/get used to doing it and don't factor it in. Sorry I missed the last live stream, when's the next?
I use the little finger too. Aikido. I wondered if it transferred well.
Dan, you said you would explain why Farriers hammers had much longer handles, but I seem to have missed your explanation!
Gosh thank you
This is a great video Daniel but I was told to be as close to your anvil as possible in order to have more control .. Is this wrong? Thanks and Cheers
To gain hammer control would it be a great idea to drive nails? Just a thoughtAmd another question?
Nope, chop wood! Uses a small hand hatchet and try to line your sticks up! hope that helps. Also Kendo is great for swing accuracy lol!
Can you harden hard ox 400 with water? I ask on account this is what I use as an anvil?thanks and cheers
8:33 Juuuuuuuust ... :D
18:53 :P
Right on dude, that was some good information. I hadn't thought of varying the anvil hight to asccount for tooling. And honestly I thought we were the only ones that noticed you sniffing the steel lol. Gonna have a go in the morning with this technique and see how it feels.
Hope it works out dude. Also I shouldn't bend over like I do.
Daniel, please, please, please....can you improve your voice recording? Maybe a bluetooth mic.....
is it bad that i have a 4 pound hammer
I'm still trying to find my swing. It's hard to concentrate (as a newbie) on my swing when I intensely focus on the forging at hand. I assume as muscle memory matures, I can start paying attention to my swing. Or just whack wood?
You know what they say practice makes perfect! It comes with time just concentrate of hit the hot metal dude!
Remember, "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.". Focus on your form and strikes. Speed will come.
Thanks Peter!
My main hammer I'm comfortable using all day is 5 pounds 🤷♂️
What is all day?
Wow, you must be such a badass