I used to be scared of mechanical stuff, never serviced my car, then I started riding motorcycles and soon after found your vids. Now I wanna do it all. Bought my GF a Yamaha YBR and immediately did my first ever oil change on that, stuff came out like Guinness, and last week did my second ever change on my own bike, the Yamaha XJ6 as seen in my photo. Had I not watched your videos prior to undertaking these tasks, I never would have gone about them with such confidence. Cheers Del.
The car and bike oil thing is academic in a Bandit - it's a basic engine in a low state of tune,so as long as it's a decent quality 10W/40 it will be fine. If you are getting a damp short in heavy rain, then the first thing that springs to mind is that the coils live behind those triangular panels near your headstock, check for bared wires or water getting in, then yes, on top of each plug hole you have a rubber cap to keep the water out - check they are all in place & check the air filter too.
Hi Del. Just wanted to say thanks very much for this video. Just done my first ever oil and filter change and it went like a dream thanks to this. Getting more confident every time I complete a new task no matter how easy they may be. Cheers mate.
Well done Mark, its very empowering to do your own maintenance and repairs, also it broadens the enjoyment of ownership and keeps you must more in touch with your bike....you become a lot more at one with it as you know its inner condition. ..keep at it buddy, and ride safe... Del.
Hi mate, my grandfather and my dad taught me the basics of mechanical principles and simply remedies from as soon as I would listen, then follow that with 32yrs riding a bike and doing everything myself, you just pick it up along the way, I ran a bike shop for 10yrs as sales & workshop manager and learned a lot from the mechanics we employed, so all in all, mate, it's just a lifetime of experience and listening, plus we never stop learning.. thanks for watching, mate, Del
Del, I didn't think that i would learn anything from this vid as I have done thousands of oil changes on hundreds of vehicles in my life. As a teen I worked in a quickie lube place and my godson manages one too. I did learn and as always your are entertaining and informative. Love to Penny pitstop too!
Hi Tom... yes and no, if you have a basic, run of the mill bike like mine, and it has an engine that doesn't rev much more than a car engine (about 7k) and its a bit worn and old already...then car oil of a good quality is fine..and will save you a pretty penny or two.... but on the other hand, if you have a high revving motor like an R6 etc, then i would always use a focussed motorcycle oil for your bike..it is formulated with higher sheer strength to protect at higher revs..take care mate, Del
Hi Del. This is by far the clearest & best no-nonsense video on oil & filter changing that i've seen. Doing my first oil change on my EN 125 today! Thanks very much for the info. Keep up the great work!
Excellent, thanks Del, knew you would give me a straight answer. Exactly what I wanted to hear, my bike has no centre stand but like you said I used paddock stand and all is hunky dory. Through what I’ve learnt from your catalogue of vids, I decided to remove my flaking, corroding number plate/indicator holder off the rear and strip it all back to bare metal and respray it. I must say it turned out nice thanks to the confidence your videos gave me. Great work, look forward to your next update.
Love this channel. Great tips and money saving ideas and expertise is second to none. I've done lots of jobs on my bike saving my hard earned and it's all down to this guy del. Cheers buddy
Yip Just bought me a new filter and some Castrol oil,and after watching this im gonna do it at the weekend. Gives me time as it will be the first time i done it and i work 2 shifts during the day. Mines a GSX 650f and my Haynes says the left fairing has to come off to get access to the filter. But i cleaned my chain and put on a new centre stand so i can do bits and bobs on the bike.This vids great fella.I got 10-40
Thanks mate, you're very kind, we only started this because we wanted to make a few of the newer riders see how easy it is to take control of your basic bike care and save all the money....its still important to know what the times right to go to a proper garage, know your limits and all that...lol.. good going with the oil, not hard is it, and means you know not only when to change yer oil, but 'why'... ride sfae fellah... cheers, Del
Great Vid´s.Fantastic practical demo of checking the viscosity of new/ oil verses current oil in bike, just checked mine. Methinks time to change is now! Thank you for all your Vlogs. As a "new yet again" biker I have learnt so much from yourself as well as "Roadcraft Nottingham" and many others. I think Safety and Maintenance go hand in hand to inspire confidence in the bike allowing me to concentrate on riding. Really appreciate the time you and Pen put into TH-cam Vids.
Hi mate, glad you asked such a question and not assume you can do it - doing valve clearances on a Bandit is easier than some bikes as it is adjustable with spanners,but it is still a tricky task and not knowing your abilities I would say unless you feel confident to do it & you've been swinging spanners for a while then maybe invest in that job this time..but if you do feel confident & want to do it, I have a link to a buddy of mine who did it in 2 parts - but again,not for the novice - Del
Hi Paul.. thanks for your comments mate, you're very kind... ill get round to all of them as i do them, but not got one ready now... im pretty tied up with the trailer and other things right now... but i will get to them at some point.Plugs are accessed from the sides of the motor, just take the caps out, and the plug spanner in your tool kit (its obvious which one) reaches down to them, leaving the head poking out, and you just undo it with a spanner.. not hard, let me know how you get on, Del.
I love your straight up , no fuss, in your face facts...take it or leave it I don't care....love it...thanks delboy..I've been doing oil changes for 50 years...I don't watch it for that it's the entertainment value....Very entertaining..I love a cup of tea also..
Thank you so much for that amazing feedback, it's people saying things like that that inspires me to keep going, as long as it's useful to someone I'll stick at it... well done for getting stuck in with your tail bracket, you can see how easy it is once you get started, as time goes by you'll build up your skills and start to create things you can be proud of and above all else, it saved you the dosh in buying a new one, take care and ride safe Del
Hey mate I have just got a old mk1 bandit and I am no way a mechanic but your videos are deadly please keep them coming its helping me a lot thanks from wicklow Ireland
Thanks Desmond, great to hear from you, and what a great choice! Probably one of the best all round motorcycles of all time... enjoy your bike, keep in touch, Del
Hi There Alex....well done and fair play to you matey, there is a mechanic in all of us, it just takes a little confidence and patience to break that initial trepidation.....keep going mate, invest in a proper manual for your bike and the YBR, then you will have tips and settings at your fingertips..read each job you intend to do, on the sofa with a coffee...twice...then get out to the garage and get stuck in....good luck to you fellah, ride safe both of you and thanks for watching...Del.
Great channel I watch a lot of your videos. Just want to make a comment about the kind of oil to use. I agree that people should use witch ever oil they please, but it is extremely important to use an oil for motorcycles specifically because most of them have wet clutches and not all oils are compatible with wet clutches. If they don't, it will destroy you clutch and the rest of the engine.
First let me say monumental congratulations on your test, that is an amazing achievement... it's never been harder to get a licence than it is today, it's a greater achievement than you think! Well done on the Bandit, not only is it a great choice of bike, but I'm glad you popped on the renthals as well as no Bandit is complete without a set! Glad the videos help, that's what they are for, ride safe, D&P
del u did it again another great video pal. i didnt need to watch as i change my oil and filter on any of my bikes every 2000 miles bit OTT i know but thats just me mate.as its as you say very simple job i could watch your videos all day long keep up the good work del
Hey del, hope you're keeping well mate. Thanks for the no nonsense vid, will be doing my first oil and filter change next weekend (doesn't seem too tricky). It's funny as we're confident in our own comfort zones and yet anything new is a bit daunting!! I'm a bricklayer by trade and have built a could of my own houses without a second thought and yet tackling such jobs certainly makes the cogs turn!! Keep up the good work, ride safe.. Thanks for your time.. Roy.
Well done you, and excellent work, its good to kow its all right and you did it yourself.. you may find its a bit better on fuel now too... and the brakes must have made a big difference too... good work.. Del.
Thanks mate, you are more than welcome, I appreciate the kind comments, sadly these days, much as I hate to admit it, Halfords still do the best deals on consumables! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
@dogwafter Ayup Ross. Good to hear yer getting stuck in yerself mate, thats the way. do the test yourself if you still have the old oil, its emediatly different and will be a good thing to do every 1000 miles too, poke a straw in yer filler hole and "pipette" a drip out once in a while and check it... if it starts to sheer too easy, then why not dump it and chuck some fresh in, it has sooo many benefits, even fuel consumption is better if the motor can spin over easier... cheers buddy.. Del.
Hi, I also put a magnetic wrist strap around the oil filter, as all the oil has to go through the filter at some point. When I took my MT07 in for it's first service the mechanic said when he emptied the filter after removing the strap loads of swarf and debris poured out with the oil so it shows it does work. I keep the strap on permanently now and just swop it over on the service schedule.
+JonnyBgood41 Sound thinking Jonny, but if you have "loads of swarf" coming out in the oil from an MT07, then you have bigger problems buddy....you shouldn't be grinding shells on such a modern bike....all bikes have an oil strainer in the sump for that reason, and it doesnt restrick oil flow if its full...but a bunch of debris in your oil filter can certainly restrict flow...seriosuly mate, do a few oil changes and see if it persists, if it does.. then you could have some bearing issues to look into..!!!!
Hi there my friend, and thank you for you kind and generous comments, i like to think that there is always something more we can learn in this life, even if its a little time saving short cut...and for my video to have said something new to a time served mechanic is a privilage indeed... thanks for your support and take care.. Del.and PennyP..
@travellar The oil was on 'special offer' that stuff is usually £29.99... i just spotted the deal advertised and vultured in on it... Some garages use bulk bought, low spec oil in 50 gallon drums for all thier oil changes, and unless you specify an oil you want (and obviously pay more for it too) then thats all you get for your 90 quid... and TBH oil is oil, even the very cheapest oil when its new and fresh is better than the very best oil after its worn out, thats what the 'sheer test' is for.
hi del just to let you no done me plugs and it was simple and i have also had my back break of and changed the pads,my bandit runs so much better now and the plugs where really black,thanks again del
hi del watched this vid today.. and i do all my own services and things like that. but i did learn something new when u did story time and oil.. keep it up no harm in free info
Moonfleet41 thanks for ur fast reply... can i ask u.. now ride a suzuki SFV650 2011 ABS... the rear wheel paint is flakeing off due to old owner putting a uncoverd lock round wheel to lock it up.. what would be the best way to paint it as what to do my self.. as dont fancy paying the 300odd quid to have it done my a shop ?
Stephen Powell This video should help you buddy... th-cam.com/video/nL-obUFru7o/w-d-xo.html the section of this video painting the wheel is the correct way to do it, if you make a nice job of it and do the front as well, you'll improve your bike, rather than just repair it ! Good luck with it mate...
@adcuz Sure is, learned it from an old Rocker bloke i used to work with years ago, he used to keep all his old oil and re-use it...and how is fared in the 'sheer test' determined if it went back in the bike, into the car engine, into the lawn mower or over the chain.... proper thrift right there mate..lol.
@thatmanfromyorkshire Hi again, thats good, 10-40 is perfect, follow the steps in the video and you'll be fine.... with yer plastics, just a little tip, make sure when refitting the screws that you grease the inner face that will bear on the plastic, and dont lean on them too hard, that way you wont mess up the paint or decals under the shoulder of the screws... all too often i see screws wound in hard and the decal all twisted up round it...grease makes all things slip in better, ooeerr...!
Well done Mark, overcoming the inept cack handed cockups of previous riders has been the story of my life.. in the end you almost get a bit suspicious of a bike if you dont find any..lol... take care buddy and again..Well done. Del.
Hi Bobby, i hear your concern mate, but really, dont over think it, they are all good, i love the Syn3 because its formulated for Harley motors (whatever that means) and in some ways that makes you feel good...those others are the premium oils of the market and would also be just fine..TBH its far more important to make sure its changed regularly and properly...sometimes i choose by picking the best deal out there, my local motor store often has half price deals on Mobil 1, so i stock up.TC Del.
Hi del, I don't know if you remember me but my old username was daledtr and I was talking to you about doing my test. I've passed it last month and I am now the proud owner of a bandit 600 :), thanks to you I've had the confidence to fit rentals and I've just now finished changing the oil and filter. Your videos are very helpful and item entertaining. Keep up the awesome work! P.S I'm loving the new bike and how the bandit is coming along.
As long as the oil is a decent quality 10/40 then it is fine in a bike with a wet clutch. With the bores, it depends how bad they are, boring out means new pistons and rings, etc., but if you've lost compression due to bore wear, then a hone with new rings will pep it right up! And finally, avoid overtaking on right hand bends if you like life! If on the other hand, you think it's time to end it all, then fill your boots ...daft question really ... cheers Del
Hi Del yet another Great video I did my oil on my yzf 750 a few days ago with fully synthetic, something about new oil in a bike that makes it run a lot nicer and quieter , thanks for the tip on the finger test i will use that in the future.
Hi mate, there is only one way that is legal and morally correct, and that is to take it to your local recycling centre...contact your local council and ask them where you can take oil for recycling, and even if you have to pay a small charge it is more than worth it to have a clear conscience and protect the environment...Penny & I take it to our local tip where they have a special tank you pour it in which is emptied and taken for recycling,failing that,ask your local garage to help,Cheers Del
Well done Roy, that's great news, its always good to do it yourself, expands the joy of ownership and leaves you more beer vouchers for the pub...win win..!
No need to use chaion wax in summer...'wax' is for winter when the rain and salt water can rust the chain....in summer, i use a 'Wurth' dry cain lube, or even just some EP90 oil every day when i ghet home...the chain stays clean then..the wax is sticky and attracts all the summer dust and grit....ill send you a link in PM to my chain cleaning video..its hard messy work, but you have no choice when it gets all gummed up... cheers.. Del.
No John, the Bandit runs just fine on that oil and has done for over 30k miles now, no ill effects, no clutch slip or gumming plates, all works as normal...TBH Oil is a lot of hype mate, the oil i use is perfect for my motor, an engine is an engine.. like tyres, there is way too much snobbery and bullshit about it, mostly blathered by people how "heard it from someone else".....! use what works for you mate, i make no statement, this is just what i use, and it works for me...take care. Del.
Got to say man, exellent video (and videos)!!! It useful, simple and just the way it should be,great. I like that you use basic tools, not 'fancy' wrenches and stuff like that, use your sence and knowlage! I got suzuki gsxf 750 i i'm just geting it ready for the season and i just wanted to say THANKS for very good and useful tips in all videos! Greetings from CROATIA!
Thank you kindly Sir....you are most welcome, im glad the videos can help you, we wouldnt load them up if nobody used the information, so thats for the feedback, it makes all the difference... take care and ride safe... Del.
Hi buddy,well I don't have a video,but here's the general idea - the break in period on a new engine is not as vital as it used to be 40yrs ago as motors are bench tested. But the key is to avoid being over gentle,as this will cause glazing & lead to that poor ring seal you talk about, not to mention hot spots, which can even score the cylinders - it is essential a new engine must have SOME load,but only when the motor is at proper working temperature ... cont'd. ...
I know, I try not to over think stuff but I am majorly ocd and want the best for my bike :) . I am using syn3 right now and will just stay with that unless I find Mobil1 on sale. Thanks for the info and for your help.
Hi mate, depends what bike it is?.. Fully synthetic oil is for extremely hi revving engines,which your mechanic should know, I use semi in the Hayabusa and change it every 2,000 miles.. changing the oil & using a good quality brand is way more important than whether it is full or semi...the qualities of fully synth are focused on sheer strength,which is more critical over 10,000 revs...but if you are respectful to your engine,warm it properly & take care of it,then you need no more than semi
I tend to think it's a bad idea with friction plate clutches, the super slippy polymers could generate clutch slip after years of contact with it, I'd prefer to just go with fresh oil every 5k miles ...
Hi, superb advice, very grateful for the shear strength info on oil. What's the issue with bike wet clutches? car and cycle oil types, Will car oil make a wet clutch slip too much ? A little clutch slip may be a good thing on a 1200S it will save on tyre/chain wear :) PS 2 Q's On a '96 Honda NTV650, I have a complete good condition top end, barrels/pistons/heads 40Kmile . How to improve performance/mpg? Bore out or just hone barrels?.And... Avoiding overtaking on a right hand bend. Essential?
Thanks buddy, nowt so good as fresh new oil, even if it's only cheap stuff, just change it sooner! Thanks for watching, as ever, always good to hear from you !
exemplary adviice as usual in your channel. did the rings and hone on a very loose 550 four back in the 90's uninsured loss, they sawed off the steel pole she was attached to soon after, even had a pipe made up by an aircaft caster/welder working just off devonshire green from an old motad in Stainless cost me £180 in parts too Just would add that it's easiest to chuck out basic rules on roads you know too well eg your daily commute. not for me to judge. be lucky, fast looks slow. cheers, mark
Hi Bobby,I'm surprised at what your HD Dealer said, specially as you live in a hot climate because Harley produce just about the best oil you could possibly put in your Harley and we use nothing else in Penny's.. simply go for 'Screamin Eagle Syn3' .. this is a semi-synthetic oil formulated for everything right up to the racing V-Rod & it's so good you can use it in your primary case too! There will always be other oils, such as Mobil1, but Syn3 is made specially for HD's & is the best! Del
cont'd. ... and build up the load that you put on the engine, don't just snap it open. Avoid revving hard in neutral & keep it well under the red line until you have changed the first lot of oil ... finally, remember also you are running in the brakes, tyres & chain & sprockets too, so just go steady, my son - good luck with it, Del
Ive only once payed for a oil change, back when the guarantee still was valid on the rex... cost me 90 quid for oil+filter and brake cleaning - thats when I decided, never more! damn cheap oil, about 20 quid less than what it costs round here:-) good tips as always :-)
Wow, I'm so glad I came across your channel! Now I have the confidence to completely service my TLR by myself. I thank you immensely! I haven't managed to go through all your video's yet but hoping I'll find one on "fuel pump gasket change" because mine is starting to leak. Anyway, Happy New Year and all the best mate! Keep up the awesome job. Cheers, Jase :)
Thanks Jase, very welcome mate, sorry we didn't have the gasket replacement covered, we make video of all jobs i come across, but not that one yet im afraid.. Thanks again for the feedback, take care.. del.
No worries Del! Thanks for the reply. I’ve found some info on how to do it plus what’s in the service manual. There’s a few conflicts regarding the combo for screw tensioning but I’ll get it sorted. Cheers mate! :)
oil leaks can also be caused by a faulty of plugged PCV. A wet clutch system is not under that much pressure. depending on engine and revs - maybe only around 30 lbs.?
Hi mate, I have the video on my favourites in two parts and as soon as I get back on proper broadband I can forward them to you ... if it's ok with you, give us a reminder in a couple of days and I'll get to it once I've cleared the decks - cheers, Del
Great vid Delboy. I do my own oil changes. Even with performance bikes, I use top spec semi sythn for road riding, rather than full synth. Rock Oil Guardian 10/w40 is my oil of choice!!
Brings back a nasty memories from 15 years ago....put sump plug back on a xl500 didn't over do it [ been riding since late 70s , mx ] just normal pressure and CRACK as the crankcase split and the thread went POP ....managed to fix it but the bike was on its last legs anyway [ Burning oil , broken spokes etc ]
Moonfleet41 The mad thing was I am careful been doing oil changes for years no worries....But this one Bike was so clapped out , It was like the crankcase / bolt couldn't take another oil change ??? I got the thing chip as chips and it must of done a lot of miles , Luckily the crankcase was on the side so pretty easy to weld up ....Babylon Dread for I + I Dread ,
Moonfleet41 Has your other half still got the Hardly Davidson ??? In the uk anyone on one seem to be old , Rich , Bambis , Posing up and down the local roads [ never go anywhere ] ......In fact its rare to see anyone under 35 on a bike now ??? Pretty sad , Wot do yer Think ??
hi, i have a 50cc moped at the moment but im hoping to get a 125cc motorbike soon, just wonderd about the chain wax, i have used chain wax on my push bike before now and when it came to cleaning the chain i used a chain cleaner and muc-off degreaser and it wouldent come off, just wonderd how do you clean the chain wax off the chain when you want to put some fresh wax on the chain? thanks
@SeanManks You're welcome Sean, and yeah, do yours yourself, you'll be amased how simple a task it is, and how little it costs, plus, the money you save paying the dealer buys more important things like dinner and a night out with Mrs Sean...lol... cheers mate.. Del.
Not only have i been using so called 'car oils' in all my bikes for the last 20 years, but ive run 4 gallons of it through the bandit now (5 oil changes in 25k miles) and the clutch bites like a pitbull,... so i guess its an old wives tale.. just make sure you use the correct grade.
Oil is oil, my friend, there is no such thing as bike or car oil... each product is differentiated by it's grade only... as long as you use 10/40 semi-synth then that is good enough for any bike that revs to 9/10k or less ... and no, all Japanese bikes are unit construction... so no, no separate trans fluid. Cheers Del
Del, I was always told to only use Oil that was made for motorcycle engines. This was because the majority of bikes have a wet clutch ans the "anti-friction" modifiers in petrol car oil additive package can affect the clutch performance. I was told that Diesel engine oil was fine in a pinch, but the advantage of "Motorcycle" oil was that it was designed to work with a wet clutch. I would love if I could use normal 10W-40 because as you say it is on sale and heaps cheaper than motorcycle oil (which I never see on sale haha). I would like to get your opinion on this.
Go with what you're happy and confident with Conor, peace of mind is all important when its your bike....ive used regular 10W40 for many years, and never had any clutch issues myself...but its your bike and your choice buddy...go with what you think it best for you... thanks for watching... Del.
Moonfleet41 Hi Del, thanks for the reply. I will keep doing what I am doing so, I am glad to have your advice on the issue. I love your videos! I am thinking of getting a fixer-uper project bike myself, something naked, air-cooled and carbureted, so easy to work on. Will send in some pics if I ever make the dream a reality :-) Keep up making the great videos!
Already had one for the YBR as I had one myself when I first did my CBT, so my GF is set there, but strangely, cannot find one for the XJ6. The only ones I can find relate to the age old XJ600 diversion from the 80's/90s. Even searched the net for one but nothing.
Thanks for the fast reply. Just waiting for a delivery of new springs and am rebuilding my forks thanks to your fork seal video. Also maybe you could do a video about the biker nod, I always try and give a quick nod to my fellow biker, any thoughts. Ride Safe Del and thanks for the easy to follow videos.
What oil would you recommend for a Harley? I currently have a 2007 HD Dyna Super Glide with the 96 cubic inch motor. I have always heard synthetic oils are better and have used them in every bike I've had and changed it every 5,000 miles. The local dealer told me not to use synthetic and that Harleys are happier with regular oil. I live in an area where it gets hot(100+ degrees) in the summer. So, what type of oil would you recommend for a Harley?
hi I have a gsf600 2001 and the manual says about the oil change should be after 6000km or half year.Also I noticed you put oil for a car,personally i would be afraid to use a car oil for a motorbike engine.
another fantastic vid mate, just 1 question, i see you are using car oil, I was always told to use motorcycle oil, is this a myth??? And another question you may be able to help with... I just got back from a 40 mile round trip to Scotland, it wwas raining heavily up there and my bandit kept dying on me! soon as the rain stopped or died off after about 10 minutes she ran great again, someone suggested it may be the spark plug drain plugs blocked, Is this a hard thing to do myself??? Thanks bud
A nother thanks and you save ma bike lol that engine was blown and it started today thanks to your videos and I washed my brake then sprayed brakes cleaner after drying them jamin
Hey Del, how did you learn so much motorbike maintenance?! Was it just through experience or did you take an apprenticeship? Your videos are great btw! thanks
Cant rate this enough. Really informative. So many of my oil questions answered. Thanks pal. Gonna do my mt03 660 tomorrow, bit scary because I think its a dry sump? Anyway great vid will be watching your others. Thanks again.
Hey Del. Yeah, I was surprised when they recommended regular oil instead of synthetic. They said the valve train is noisier with synthetic. I have syn3 in there now and I do hear some "ticking/tapping" sound sometimes, thats why I wanted to see what you would recommend. I have thought about Mobil1 or Lucas synthetic motorcycle oil but haven't decided yet. Do you have an opinion on those or should I just stick with syn3?
OMG I thought you had pink nail varnish on when you got to the check and top up, then realised it was Penny's hand! LOL! Just watching old ones of yours I've not had the pleasure of, RSM8
great vid mate.. my mechanic keeps telling me to use fully sym oil.. not sure whether use semi or fully. i am off to wales soon and will ride 1000 miles in 4 days. what oil would u recommend?
Hi Del What's your view on adding the Slick 50 type products when doing the oil change? me I bang a little bit in ,but I always have over the years. Cheers Iain
Hi Del, I will be changing my oil soon, 2 things I would like to ask you, my Kawasaki did not come with a magnetic sump drain bolt do Suzuki provide them as standard, It's a really good simple idea, 2nd I was taught to remove the oil filler cap prior to removal of the sump bolt the reason I was given was that it serves as a reminder that there is no oil, I am reasonably able to know that but I suppose that these things cater for the mentally challenged among us, but would there be any other reason to remove filler cap first such as overcoming capillary action perhaps?
hi del. at 7.15 mins on the video. is that a slight hole in the exhaust? i have a slight hole in that exact area. do you have videos on how to repair or sort these small holes out? j b weld paste? i font really want to spent hundreds on new exhaust. hope you can help. many thanks
Hi mate... no that was just some ghatsly stick welding by the previous owner..and it was actually sealed too.... you could get it welded up by any half decent basic garage, but if not, then why not try some JB weld mate.. its great stuff, and if you make a good job then you've saved a hill of money... nowt to lose ay buddy?.. good luck with it.. Del.
Hi pal, like most posts on hear your a top fella with stacks of know how, your bandit sounds great whats exhaust do you have on her? New rider, well one year, found maintence on chain etc, so vaulable so thanks again. chris
Hi Chris, glad you're able to use the videos to help you with your maintenance, that's exactly what they are there for mate...! The exhaust on the Bandit is a Yoshimura can cut down to 11" on standard downpipes (have a video on the Channel of doing it!)... ride safe fellah, Cheers Del
Hi del, always do my own oil + filter changes but wondered what you though about oil flush products I am thinking of using forte as have heard its good on old engines that need really good clean.
RetroCable.com Hi mate, if the motor really and truly is old and has had very long times since an oil change, then you could flush out... but honestly speaking, I don't like those products cos they introduce solvents to the motor which disolve oils and carbon (as they are designed to), but you'll never irradicate every drop of the flush solvent, so therefore, some will always remain in the motor to contaminate and thin out your new oil.... if you simply refill with fresh oil run for a few minutes, then dump that oil, then change to your fresh oil and filter.... thus using the clean engine oil as a flushing agent... this will clean out any of the old rubbish, but not leave damaging solvents behind inside... just my take on it buddy!
First I would never spin the engine over with the oil drained, it will not pump more oil out as the oil lays in the sump and gravity will remove it, the oil pump sucks oil UP from the sump into the higher parts of the engine when it turns over,so flicking the engine over whilst draining the oil will not only prevent it draining, but also rub metal parts together when they have no oil to protect them... & old oil is always poisonous, so avoid contact where possible.. skin is ok, just wash it off!
Hi Del, probably the 8th time I’ve watched this since you uploaded it. Changed the oil on my SV650 the other day. Just wondered, am I right in thinking you check the level on the glass with the bike upright? seems awkward as the bike naturally leans to the left on the stand. Obviously there is a huge difference in the level between upright and leaning so just wanted to make sure, manual is very vague. Thanks mate.
A mechanic at the suziki told me to check the oil level when it's not on it's side stand, but get someone to hold the bike upright en check the window. Are you using the center stand here? And why don't you just pour in 330ml right away? Going to do the whole service of my bike by myself thanks to your video's! Gonna save some money on that. Used to always bring at the dealer ...
+Kris Schobben Hi Kris, The bike is on a paddock stand to keep it upright...and you cannot be sure that you have drained 330ml out, those quantities are very rarely correct because of the random amount that will always remain inside the sump....it is a quantity added to a bone dry engine...also it does not account for hte quantity contained inside the oil filter.....so always fill to the 'high' mark in the window... hope that helps.. Del
Ayup Si, with my B12 I was always happy with oil and filter every 5k, air filter evey 10k and plugs every 20-25k... should be the same for the 600 mate
I used to be scared of mechanical stuff, never serviced my car, then I started riding motorcycles and soon after found your vids. Now I wanna do it all. Bought my GF a Yamaha YBR and immediately did my first ever oil change on that, stuff came out like Guinness, and last week did my second ever change on my own bike, the Yamaha XJ6 as seen in my photo. Had I not watched your videos prior to undertaking these tasks, I never would have gone about them with such confidence. Cheers Del.
The car and bike oil thing is academic in a Bandit - it's a basic engine in a low state of tune,so as long as it's a decent quality 10W/40 it will be fine. If you are getting a damp short in heavy rain, then the first thing that springs to mind is that the coils live behind those triangular panels near your headstock, check for bared wires or water getting in, then yes, on top of each plug hole you have a rubber cap to keep the water out - check they are all in place & check the air filter too.
Hi Del. Just wanted to say thanks very much for this video. Just done my first ever oil and filter change and it went like a dream thanks to this. Getting more confident every time I complete a new task no matter how easy they may be. Cheers mate.
Well done Mark, its very empowering to do your own maintenance and repairs, also it broadens the enjoyment of ownership and keeps you must more in touch with your bike....you become a lot more at one with it as you know its inner condition. ..keep at it buddy, and ride safe... Del.
Hi mate, my grandfather and my dad taught me the basics of mechanical principles and simply remedies from as soon as I would listen, then follow that with 32yrs riding a bike and doing everything myself, you just pick it up along the way, I ran a bike shop for 10yrs as sales & workshop manager and learned a lot from the mechanics we employed, so all in all, mate, it's just a lifetime of experience and listening, plus we never stop learning.. thanks for watching, mate, Del
Del, I didn't think that i would learn anything from this vid as I have done thousands of oil changes on hundreds of vehicles in my life. As a teen I worked in a quickie lube place and my godson manages one too. I did learn and as always your are entertaining and informative. Love to Penny pitstop too!
Hi Tom... yes and no, if you have a basic, run of the mill bike like mine, and it has an engine that doesn't rev much more than a car engine (about 7k) and its a bit worn and old already...then car oil of a good quality is fine..and will save you a pretty penny or two.... but on the other hand, if you have a high revving motor like an R6 etc, then i would always use a focussed motorcycle oil for your bike..it is formulated with higher sheer strength to protect at higher revs..take care mate, Del
Hi Del. This is by far the clearest & best no-nonsense video on oil & filter changing that i've seen. Doing my first oil change on my EN 125 today! Thanks very much for the info. Keep up the great work!
Well done Luke, good on you for getting stuck in yourself....thanks for your kind comments mate... and good luck with the service... Del.
Excellent, thanks Del, knew you would give me a straight answer. Exactly what I wanted to hear, my bike has no centre stand but like you said I used paddock stand and all is hunky dory.
Through what I’ve learnt from your catalogue of vids, I decided to remove my flaking, corroding number plate/indicator holder off the rear and strip it all back to bare metal and respray it. I must say it turned out nice thanks to the confidence your videos gave me. Great work, look forward to your next update.
Love this channel. Great tips and money saving ideas and expertise is second to none. I've done lots of jobs on my bike saving my hard earned and it's all down to this guy del. Cheers buddy
Yip
Just bought me a new filter and some Castrol oil,and after watching this im gonna do it at the weekend. Gives me time as it will be the first time i done it and i work 2 shifts during the day. Mines a GSX 650f and my Haynes says the left fairing has to come off to get access to the filter. But i cleaned my chain and put on a new centre stand so i can do bits and bobs on the bike.This vids great fella.I got 10-40
Thanks mate, you're very kind, we only started this because we wanted to make a few of the newer riders see how easy it is to take control of your basic bike care and save all the money....its still important to know what the times right to go to a proper garage, know your limits and all that...lol.. good going with the oil, not hard is it, and means you know not only when to change yer oil, but 'why'... ride sfae fellah... cheers, Del
Great Vid´s.Fantastic practical demo of checking the viscosity of new/ oil verses current oil in bike, just checked mine. Methinks time to change is now! Thank you for all your Vlogs. As a "new yet again" biker I have learnt so much from yourself as well as "Roadcraft Nottingham" and many others. I think Safety and Maintenance go hand in hand to inspire confidence in the bike allowing me to concentrate on riding. Really appreciate the time you and Pen put into TH-cam Vids.
Hi mate, glad you asked such a question and not assume you can do it - doing valve clearances on a Bandit is easier than some bikes as it is adjustable with spanners,but it is still a tricky task and not knowing your abilities I would say unless you feel confident to do it & you've been swinging spanners for a while then maybe invest in that job this time..but if you do feel confident & want to do it, I have a link to a buddy of mine who did it in 2 parts - but again,not for the novice - Del
Hi Paul.. thanks for your comments mate, you're very kind... ill get round to all of them as i do them, but not got one ready now... im pretty tied up with the trailer and other things right now... but i will get to them at some point.Plugs are accessed from the sides of the motor, just take the caps out, and the plug spanner in your tool kit (its obvious which one) reaches down to them, leaving the head poking out, and you just undo it with a spanner.. not hard, let me know how you get on, Del.
I love your straight up , no fuss, in your face facts...take it or leave it I don't care....love it...thanks delboy..I've been doing oil changes for 50 years...I don't watch it for that it's the entertainment value....Very entertaining..I love a cup of tea also..
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the videos.. and thanks for taking the time to get in touch. Del.
cheers for posting the video. used it to do the first oil and filter change on my bandit 600. sandpaper trick worked a treat. cheers. Steven
Nice one Steven, glad it helped you out mate. !
Also doin yourself, means it gets done properly
I missed the sandpaper trick! What was it?
Wrap sand paper round the filter to grip it when you need to unscrew it..!
Thank you so much for that amazing feedback, it's people saying things like that that inspires me to keep going, as long as it's useful to someone I'll stick at it... well done for getting stuck in with your tail bracket, you can see how easy it is once you get started, as time goes by you'll build up your skills and start to create things you can be proud of and above all else, it saved you the dosh in buying a new one, take care and ride safe Del
Hey mate I have just got a old mk1 bandit and I am no way a mechanic but your videos are deadly please keep them coming its helping me a lot thanks from wicklow Ireland
Thanks Desmond, great to hear from you, and what a great choice! Probably one of the best all round motorcycles of all time... enjoy your bike, keep in touch, Del
Hi There Alex....well done and fair play to you matey, there is a mechanic in all of us, it just takes a little confidence and patience to break that initial trepidation.....keep going mate, invest in a proper manual for your bike and the YBR, then you will have tips and settings at your fingertips..read each job you intend to do, on the sofa with a coffee...twice...then get out to the garage and get stuck in....good luck to you fellah, ride safe both of you and thanks for watching...Del.
Great channel I watch a lot of your videos. Just want to make a comment about the kind of oil to use. I agree that people should use witch ever oil they please, but it is extremely important to use an oil for motorcycles specifically because most of them have wet clutches and not all oils are compatible with wet clutches. If they don't, it will destroy you clutch and the rest of the engine.
First let me say monumental congratulations on your test, that is an amazing achievement... it's never been harder to get a licence than it is today, it's a greater achievement than you think! Well done on the Bandit, not only is it a great choice of bike, but I'm glad you popped on the renthals as well as no Bandit is complete without a set! Glad the videos help, that's what they are for, ride safe, D&P
Cheers John. You're very kind, and a appreciate the kind comments and support... ride safe chap.. Del.
del u did it again another great video pal. i didnt need to watch as i change my oil and filter on any of my bikes every 2000 miles bit OTT i know but thats just me mate.as its as you say very simple job i could watch your videos all day long keep up the good work del
Hey del, hope you're keeping well mate. Thanks for the no nonsense vid, will be doing my first oil and filter change next weekend (doesn't seem too tricky). It's funny as we're confident in our own comfort zones and yet anything new is a bit daunting!! I'm a bricklayer by trade and have built a could of my own houses without a second thought and yet tackling such jobs certainly makes the cogs turn!!
Keep up the good work, ride safe.. Thanks for your time.. Roy.
Well done you, and excellent work, its good to kow its all right and you did it yourself.. you may find its a bit better on fuel now too... and the brakes must have made a big difference too... good work.. Del.
Thanks mate, you are more than welcome, I appreciate the kind comments, sadly these days, much as I hate to admit it, Halfords still do the best deals on consumables! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, Cheers Del
@dogwafter Ayup Ross. Good to hear yer getting stuck in yerself mate, thats the way. do the test yourself if you still have the old oil, its emediatly different and will be a good thing to do every 1000 miles too, poke a straw in yer filler hole and "pipette" a drip out once in a while and check it... if it starts to sheer too easy, then why not dump it and chuck some fresh in, it has sooo many benefits, even fuel consumption is better if the motor can spin over easier... cheers buddy.. Del.
Hi, I also put a magnetic wrist strap around the oil filter, as all the oil has to go through the filter at some point. When I took my MT07 in for it's first service the mechanic said when he emptied the filter after removing the strap loads of swarf and debris poured out with the oil so it shows it does work. I keep the strap on permanently now and just swop it over on the service schedule.
+JonnyBgood41 Sound thinking Jonny, but if you have "loads of swarf" coming out in the oil from an MT07, then you have bigger problems buddy....you shouldn't be grinding shells on such a modern bike....all bikes have an oil strainer in the sump for that reason, and it doesnt restrick oil flow if its full...but a bunch of debris in your oil filter can certainly restrict flow...seriosuly mate, do a few oil changes and see if it persists, if it does.. then you could have some bearing issues to look into..!!!!
+Moonfleet41 ok I will do . Cheers.
Hi there my friend, and thank you for you kind and generous comments, i like to think that there is always something more we can learn in this life, even if its a little time saving short cut...and for my video to have said something new to a time served mechanic is a privilage indeed... thanks for your support and take care.. Del.and PennyP..
I love the way you explain the sheer strength of the oils, that's awesome and I never knew that =)
Cheers Johny, Old school stuff mate... glad you enjoy it.
Thanks for your kind comments... and its a 1200S..
@travellar The oil was on 'special offer' that stuff is usually £29.99... i just spotted the deal advertised and vultured in on it... Some garages use bulk bought, low spec oil in 50 gallon drums for all thier oil changes, and unless you specify an oil you want (and obviously pay more for it too) then thats all you get for your 90 quid... and TBH oil is oil, even the very cheapest oil when its new and fresh is better than the very best oil after its worn out, thats what the 'sheer test' is for.
hi del just to let you no done me plugs and it was simple and i have also had my back break of and changed the pads,my bandit runs so much better now and the plugs where really black,thanks again del
hi del watched this vid today.. and i do all my own services and things like that. but i did learn something new when u did story time and oil.. keep it up no harm in free info
Stephen Powell Just spreading the love Stephen, we learn every day aye..! thanks for wathicng buddy. cheers, Del.
Moonfleet41 thanks for ur fast reply... can i ask u.. now ride a suzuki SFV650 2011 ABS... the rear wheel paint is flakeing off due to old owner putting a uncoverd lock round wheel to lock it up.. what would be the best way to paint it as what to do my self.. as dont fancy paying the 300odd quid to have it done my a shop ?
Stephen Powell This video should help you buddy... th-cam.com/video/nL-obUFru7o/w-d-xo.html the section of this video painting the wheel is the correct way to do it, if you make a nice job of it and do the front as well, you'll improve your bike, rather than just repair it ! Good luck with it mate...
Moonfleet41 cheers mate ill give it a watch and give it a go :D thanks del and not forgetting penny
@adcuz Sure is, learned it from an old Rocker bloke i used to work with years ago, he used to keep all his old oil and re-use it...and how is fared in the 'sheer test' determined if it went back in the bike, into the car engine, into the lawn mower or over the chain.... proper thrift right there mate..lol.
Deadly video 🤙 from car to bike so these kinda videos are dead handy make my life easier 👍👍
@thatmanfromyorkshire Hi again, thats good, 10-40 is perfect, follow the steps in the video and you'll be fine.... with yer plastics, just a little tip, make sure when refitting the screws that you grease the inner face that will bear on the plastic, and dont lean on them too hard, that way you wont mess up the paint or decals under the shoulder of the screws... all too often i see screws wound in hard and the decal all twisted up round it...grease makes all things slip in better, ooeerr...!
Well done Mark, overcoming the inept cack handed cockups of previous riders has been the story of my life.. in the end you almost get a bit suspicious of a bike if you dont find any..lol... take care buddy and again..Well done. Del.
Hi Bobby, i hear your concern mate, but really, dont over think it, they are all good, i love the Syn3 because its formulated for Harley motors (whatever that means) and in some ways that makes you feel good...those others are the premium oils of the market and would also be just fine..TBH its far more important to make sure its changed regularly and properly...sometimes i choose by picking the best deal out there, my local motor store often has half price deals on Mobil 1, so i stock up.TC Del.
Hi del, I don't know if you remember me but my old username was daledtr and I was talking to you about doing my test. I've passed it last month and I am now the proud owner of a bandit 600 :), thanks to you I've had the confidence to fit rentals and I've just now finished changing the oil and filter. Your videos are very helpful and item entertaining. Keep up the awesome work! P.S I'm loving the new bike and how the bandit is coming along.
As long as the oil is a decent quality 10/40 then it is fine in a bike with a wet clutch.
With the bores, it depends how bad they are, boring out means new pistons and rings, etc., but if you've lost compression due to bore wear, then a hone with new rings will pep it right up!
And finally, avoid overtaking on right hand bends if you like life! If on the other hand, you think it's time to end it all, then fill your boots ...daft question really ... cheers Del
Hi Del
yet another Great video I did my oil on my yzf 750 a few days ago with fully synthetic, something about new oil in a bike that makes it run a lot nicer and quieter , thanks for the tip on the finger test i will use that in the future.
Great. My teacher. I learned the right way of service. One thing I want to know that do can we use the magnet under the surface of engine.
Hi mate, there is only one way that is legal and morally correct, and that is to take it to your local recycling centre...contact your local council and ask them where you can take oil for recycling, and even if you have to pay a small charge it is more than worth it to have a clear conscience and protect the environment...Penny & I take it to our local tip where they have a special tank you pour it in which is emptied and taken for recycling,failing that,ask your local garage to help,Cheers Del
Hey Del, hope you and Penny are well mate.. Just a quick post to say I managed the oil and filter change and all went well!!
Thanks again mate,
Roy
Well done Roy, that's great news, its always good to do it yourself, expands the joy of ownership and leaves you more beer vouchers for the pub...win win..!
No need to use chaion wax in summer...'wax' is for winter when the rain and salt water can rust the chain....in summer, i use a 'Wurth' dry cain lube, or even just some EP90 oil every day when i ghet home...the chain stays clean then..the wax is sticky and attracts all the summer dust and grit....ill send you a link in PM to my chain cleaning video..its hard messy work, but you have no choice when it gets all gummed up... cheers.. Del.
No John, the Bandit runs just fine on that oil and has done for over 30k miles now, no ill effects, no clutch slip or gumming plates, all works as normal...TBH Oil is a lot of hype mate, the oil i use is perfect for my motor, an engine is an engine.. like tyres, there is way too much snobbery and bullshit about it, mostly blathered by people how "heard it from someone else".....! use what works for you mate, i make no statement, this is just what i use, and it works for me...take care. Del.
No you're not Tyler, as long as the grade is correct there is precious little difference..
Got to say man, exellent video (and videos)!!! It useful, simple and just the way it should be,great. I like that you use basic tools, not 'fancy' wrenches and stuff like that, use your sence and knowlage! I got suzuki gsxf 750 i i'm just geting it ready for the season and i just wanted to say THANKS for very good and useful tips in all videos! Greetings from CROATIA!
Thank you kindly Sir....you are most welcome, im glad the videos can help you, we wouldnt load them up if nobody used the information, so thats for the feedback, it makes all the difference... take care and ride safe... Del.
Hi buddy,well I don't have a video,but here's the general idea - the break in period on a new engine is not as vital as it used to be 40yrs ago as motors are bench tested. But the key is to avoid being over gentle,as this will cause glazing & lead to that poor ring seal you talk about, not to mention hot spots, which can even score the cylinders - it is essential a new engine must have SOME load,but only when the motor is at proper working temperature ... cont'd. ...
I know, I try not to over think stuff but I am majorly ocd and want the best for my bike :) . I am using syn3 right now and will just stay with that unless I find Mobil1 on sale. Thanks for the info and for your help.
Hi mate, depends what bike it is?.. Fully synthetic oil is for extremely hi revving engines,which your mechanic should know, I use semi in the Hayabusa and change it every 2,000 miles.. changing the oil & using a good quality brand is way more important than whether it is full or semi...the qualities of fully synth are focused on sheer strength,which is more critical over 10,000 revs...but if you are respectful to your engine,warm it properly & take care of it,then you need no more than semi
I tend to think it's a bad idea with friction plate clutches, the super slippy polymers could generate clutch slip after years of contact with it, I'd prefer to just go with fresh oil every 5k miles ...
Hi, superb advice, very grateful for the shear strength info on oil.
What's the issue with bike wet clutches? car and cycle oil types, Will car oil make a wet clutch slip too much ? A little clutch slip may be a good thing on a 1200S it will save on tyre/chain wear :)
PS 2 Q's On a '96 Honda NTV650, I have a complete good condition top end, barrels/pistons/heads 40Kmile . How to improve performance/mpg? Bore out or just hone barrels?.And...
Avoiding overtaking on a right hand bend. Essential?
I like the demo for shear strength...thanks for sharing and great video.
Thanks buddy, nowt so good as fresh new oil, even if it's only cheap stuff, just change it sooner! Thanks for watching, as ever, always good to hear from you !
exemplary adviice as usual in your channel.
did the rings and hone on a very loose 550 four back in the 90's uninsured loss, they sawed off the steel pole she was attached to soon after, even had a pipe made up by an aircaft caster/welder working just off devonshire green from an old motad in Stainless cost me £180 in parts too
Just would add that it's easiest to chuck out basic rules on roads you know too well eg your daily commute. not for me to judge. be lucky, fast looks slow.
cheers, mark
Hi Bobby,I'm surprised at what your HD Dealer said, specially as you live in a hot climate because Harley produce just about the best oil you could possibly put in your Harley and we use nothing else in Penny's.. simply go for 'Screamin Eagle Syn3' .. this is a semi-synthetic oil formulated for everything right up to the racing V-Rod & it's so good you can use it in your primary case too! There will always be other oils, such as Mobil1, but Syn3 is made specially for HD's & is the best! Del
cont'd. ... and build up the load that you put on the engine, don't just snap it open. Avoid revving hard in neutral & keep it well under the red line until you have changed the first lot of oil ... finally, remember also you are running in the brakes, tyres & chain & sprockets too, so just go steady, my son - good luck with it, Del
More great info--love saving the money and doing the job myself.
Ive only once payed for a oil change, back when the guarantee still was valid on the rex... cost me 90 quid for oil+filter and brake cleaning - thats when I decided, never more! damn cheap oil, about 20 quid less than what it costs round here:-) good tips as always :-)
Wow, I'm so glad I came across your channel! Now I have the confidence to completely service my TLR by myself. I thank you immensely! I haven't managed to go through all your video's yet but hoping I'll find one on "fuel pump gasket change" because mine is starting to leak. Anyway, Happy New Year and all the best mate! Keep up the awesome job. Cheers, Jase :)
Thanks Jase, very welcome mate, sorry we didn't have the gasket replacement covered, we make video of all jobs i come across, but not that one yet im afraid.. Thanks again for the feedback, take care.. del.
No worries Del! Thanks for the reply. I’ve found some info on how to do it plus what’s in the service manual. There’s a few conflicts regarding the combo for screw tensioning but I’ll get it sorted. Cheers mate! :)
oil leaks can also be caused by a faulty of plugged PCV. A wet clutch system is not under that much pressure. depending on engine and revs - maybe only around 30 lbs.?
Hi mate, I have the video on my favourites in two parts and as soon as I get back on proper broadband I can forward them to you ... if it's ok with you, give us a reminder in a couple of days and I'll get to it once I've cleared the decks - cheers, Del
Great vid Delboy. I do my own oil changes. Even with performance bikes, I use top spec semi sythn for road riding, rather than full synth. Rock Oil Guardian 10/w40 is my oil of choice!!
+Geoff Poole Hi Geoff, thanks for watching buddy, glad you liked the video... take care aye, Del.
Very nice video, Del. I hope to change the oil in my 2011 Kawasaki, one day. Thx.!
Brings back a nasty memories from 15 years ago....put sump plug back on a xl500 didn't over do it [ been riding since late 70s , mx ] just normal pressure and CRACK as the crankcase split and the thread went POP ....managed to fix it but the bike was on its last legs anyway [ Burning oil , broken spokes etc ]
ZERO XX77 Its easy to do if you're not careful aye..
Moonfleet41 The mad thing was I am careful been doing oil changes for years no worries....But this one Bike was so clapped out , It was like the crankcase / bolt couldn't take another oil change ??? I got the thing chip as chips and it must of done a lot of miles , Luckily the crankcase was on the side so pretty easy to weld up ....Babylon Dread for I + I Dread ,
Moonfleet41 Has your other half still got the Hardly Davidson ??? In the uk anyone on one seem to be old , Rich , Bambis , Posing up and down the local roads [ never go anywhere ] ......In fact its rare to see anyone under 35 on a bike now ??? Pretty sad , Wot do yer Think ??
At about 20.50 I see what you did while you waiting for the oil to change. You did your nails! Nice colour!
hi, i have a 50cc moped at the moment but im hoping to get a 125cc motorbike soon, just wonderd about the chain wax, i have used chain wax on my push bike before now and when it came to cleaning the chain i used a chain cleaner and muc-off degreaser and it wouldent come off, just wonderd how do you clean the chain wax off the chain when you want to put some fresh wax on the chain? thanks
@SeanManks You're welcome Sean, and yeah, do yours yourself, you'll be amased how simple a task it is, and how little it costs, plus, the money you save paying the dealer buys more important things like dinner and a night out with Mrs Sean...lol... cheers mate.. Del.
Not only have i been using so called 'car oils' in all my bikes for the last 20 years, but ive run 4 gallons of it through the bandit now (5 oil changes in 25k miles) and the clutch bites like a pitbull,... so i guess its an old wives tale.. just make sure you use the correct grade.
Oil is oil, my friend, there is no such thing as bike or car oil... each product is differentiated by it's grade only... as long as you use 10/40 semi-synth then that is good enough for any bike that revs to 9/10k or less ... and no, all Japanese bikes are unit construction... so no, no separate trans fluid. Cheers Del
Del, I was always told to only use Oil that was made for motorcycle engines. This was because the majority of bikes have a wet clutch ans the "anti-friction" modifiers in petrol car oil additive package can affect the clutch performance. I was told that Diesel engine oil was fine in a pinch, but the advantage of "Motorcycle" oil was that it was designed to work with a wet clutch.
I would love if I could use normal 10W-40 because as you say it is on sale and heaps cheaper than motorcycle oil (which I never see on sale haha). I would like to get your opinion on this.
Go with what you're happy and confident with Conor, peace of mind is all important when its your bike....ive used regular 10W40 for many years, and never had any clutch issues myself...but its your bike and your choice buddy...go with what you think it best for you... thanks for watching... Del.
Moonfleet41 Hi Del, thanks for the reply. I will keep doing what I am doing so, I am glad to have your advice on the issue. I love your videos! I am thinking of getting a fixer-uper project bike myself, something naked, air-cooled and carbureted, so easy to work on. Will send in some pics if I ever make the dream a reality :-) Keep up making the great videos!
Hi Del,
I thought you couldn't use car oil in motorbike due to additives messing up the clutch?
Thanks
Is that car oil adecuate for motorcycle wet clutch?
Is it safe to use it on a Triumph speed triple???
Already had one for the YBR as I had one myself when I first did my CBT, so my GF is set there, but strangely, cannot find one for the XJ6. The only ones I can find relate to the age old XJ600 diversion from the 80's/90s. Even searched the net for one but nothing.
Thanks for the fast reply.
Just waiting for a delivery of new springs and am rebuilding my forks thanks to your fork seal video.
Also maybe you could do a video about the biker nod, I always try and give a quick nod
to my fellow biker, any thoughts.
Ride Safe Del and thanks for the easy to follow videos.
RetroCable.com Ok mate....here's a video that may go a bit to the 'biker nod' thing....see what you think. th-cam.com/video/0Fom854gZU8/w-d-xo.html
Ill keep it short then...Thanks for watching mate.. !
What oil would you recommend for a Harley? I currently have a 2007 HD Dyna Super Glide with the 96 cubic inch motor. I have always heard synthetic oils are better and have used them in every bike I've had and changed it every 5,000 miles. The local dealer told me not to use synthetic and that Harleys are happier with regular oil. I live in an area where it gets hot(100+ degrees) in the summer. So, what type of oil would you recommend for a Harley?
hi
I have a gsf600 2001 and the manual says about the oil change should be after 6000km or half year.Also I noticed you put oil for a car,personally i would be afraid to use a car oil for a motorbike engine.
Thoughts on car/diesel oil used for motorcycles?
Excellent lesson, thanks mate.
another fantastic vid mate, just 1 question, i see you are using car oil, I was always told to use motorcycle oil, is this a myth??? And another question you may be able to help with... I just got back from a 40 mile round trip to Scotland, it wwas raining heavily up there and my bandit kept dying on me! soon as the rain stopped or died off after about 10 minutes she ran great again, someone suggested it may be the spark plug drain plugs blocked, Is this a hard thing to do myself??? Thanks bud
A nother thanks and you save ma bike lol that engine was blown and it started today thanks to your videos and I washed my brake then sprayed brakes cleaner after drying them jamin
That's great news buddy, it's so good to know we've been able to help you, keep in touch, Del
Hey Del, how did you learn so much motorbike maintenance?! Was it just through experience or did you take an apprenticeship? Your videos are great btw! thanks
Cant rate this enough. Really informative. So many of my oil questions answered. Thanks pal. Gonna do my mt03 660 tomorrow, bit scary because I think its a dry sump? Anyway great vid will be watching your others. Thanks again.
Thanks Phil, glad you like it, and drop us a line if you get stuck..! good luck with it mate.
You are a legend thankyou. Watching fork seal change right now. Way beyond my skills bit a joy to watch a master at work.
Hey Del. Yeah, I was surprised when they recommended regular oil instead of synthetic. They said the valve train is noisier with synthetic. I have syn3 in there now and I do hear some "ticking/tapping" sound sometimes, thats why I wanted to see what you would recommend. I have thought about Mobil1 or Lucas synthetic motorcycle oil but haven't decided yet. Do you have an opinion on those or should I just stick with syn3?
OMG I thought you had pink nail varnish on when you got to the check and top up, then realised it was Penny's hand! LOL! Just watching old ones of yours I've not had the pleasure of, RSM8
Hi Ian, thanks for looking back through the old stuff.. its a lot better now days aye..!
Hell yeah, but we all have to start somewhere buddy! Keep it up and RSM8
great vid mate.. my mechanic keeps telling me to use fully sym oil.. not sure whether use semi or fully. i am off to wales soon and will ride 1000 miles in 4 days. what oil would u recommend?
Hi Del
What's your view on adding the Slick 50 type products when doing the oil change? me I bang a little bit in ,but I always have over the years.
Cheers
Iain
thanks for answering mate.. i got a bandit 600 2003 reg.
Hi Del, I will be changing my oil soon, 2 things I would like to ask you, my Kawasaki did not come with a magnetic sump drain bolt do Suzuki provide them as standard,
It's a really good simple idea, 2nd I was taught to remove the oil filler cap prior to removal of the sump bolt the reason I was given was that it serves as a reminder that there is no oil, I am reasonably able to know that but I suppose that these things cater for the mentally challenged among us, but would there be any other reason to remove filler cap first such as overcoming capillary action perhaps?
Can the car oil be used on motorcycle.? Is the full synthetic better?
hi del. at 7.15 mins on the video. is that a slight hole in the exhaust?
i have a slight hole in that exact area.
do you have videos on how to repair or sort these small holes out?
j b weld paste?
i font really want to spent hundreds on new exhaust.
hope you can help.
many thanks
Hi mate... no that was just some ghatsly stick welding by the previous owner..and it was actually sealed too.... you could get it welded up by any half decent basic garage, but if not, then why not try some JB weld mate.. its great stuff, and if you make a good job then you've saved a hill of money... nowt to lose ay buddy?.. good luck with it.. Del.
Hi pal, like most posts on hear your a top fella with stacks of know how, your bandit sounds great whats exhaust do you have on her? New rider, well one year, found maintence on chain etc, so vaulable so thanks again. chris
Hi Chris, glad you're able to use the videos to help you with your maintenance, that's exactly what they are there for mate...! The exhaust on the Bandit is a Yoshimura can cut down to 11" on standard downpipes (have a video on the Channel of doing it!)... ride safe fellah, Cheers Del
Hi del, always do my own oil + filter changes but wondered what you though about oil flush products I am thinking of using forte as have heard its good on old engines that need really good clean.
RetroCable.com Hi mate, if the motor really and truly is old and has had very long times since an oil change, then you could flush out... but honestly speaking, I don't like those products cos they introduce solvents to the motor which disolve oils and carbon (as they are designed to), but you'll never irradicate every drop of the flush solvent, so therefore, some will always remain in the motor to contaminate and thin out your new oil.... if you simply refill with fresh oil run for a few minutes, then dump that oil, then change to your fresh oil and filter.... thus using the clean engine oil as a flushing agent... this will clean out any of the old rubbish, but not leave damaging solvents behind inside... just my take on it buddy!
First I would never spin the engine over with the oil drained, it will not pump more oil out as the oil lays in the sump and gravity will remove it, the oil pump sucks oil UP from the sump into the higher parts of the engine when it turns over,so flicking the engine over whilst draining the oil will not only prevent it draining, but also rub metal parts together when they have no oil to protect them... & old oil is always poisonous, so avoid contact where possible.. skin is ok, just wash it off!
Hi Del, What oil do you recommend on a Ducati S2R monster? I need an oil change
Hi Del, probably the 8th time I’ve watched this since you uploaded it. Changed the oil on my SV650 the other day. Just wondered, am I right in thinking you check the level on the glass with the bike upright? seems awkward as the bike naturally leans to the left on the stand.
Obviously there is a huge difference in the level between upright and leaning so just wanted to make sure, manual is very vague. Thanks mate.
A mechanic at the suziki told me to check the oil level when it's not on it's side stand, but get someone to hold the bike upright en check the window.
Are you using the center stand here?
And why don't you just pour in 330ml right away?
Going to do the whole service of my bike by myself thanks to your video's! Gonna save some money on that. Used to always bring at the dealer ...
+Kris Schobben Hi Kris, The bike is on a paddock stand to keep it upright...and you cannot be sure that you have drained 330ml out, those quantities are very rarely correct because of the random amount that will always remain inside the sump....it is a quantity added to a bone dry engine...also it does not account for hte quantity contained inside the oil filter.....so always fill to the 'high' mark in the window... hope that helps.. Del
hi del i have a bandit 600 how often change oil and filter? i usally do every 4000? and what about plugs on suzuki bandit 600?
Ayup Si, with my B12 I was always happy with oil and filter every 5k, air filter evey 10k and plugs every 20-25k... should be the same for the 600 mate