DUDE!!! I am legit excited. Every time there’s a plumbing episode I’m like, “Please cover PE-RT!!!” I don’t think it’s because of me, but I’ve been requesting it since before he killed Risinger Goes Rogue.
Hey Matt, you do know the Oatey Access Panels can be flipped for new construction and installed prior to drywall right? Just flip the cover. Saves the extra steps you added and is a much cleaner look when finished and painted. (fan and fellow GC in Iowa)
Those Kohler cast iron tubs have both the lowest curb height and the deepest spill over level. Best tub there is from my experience. I also insulate mine
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Ethernet will be obsolete when faster than 100Gb/s connections become commonplace and even then the upgrade is fiber, not wireless. Even people who ran CAT5e are good for 2.5Gb/s for the full 100m maximum length run (and up to 10Gb/s for runs under 45m). WiFi isn't a magical solution that lets you connect everything, too many devices in the same area will always cause performance degradation. You can't stuff more data into the same airwaves but you can always run another cable.
Agreed. Wi-Fi is terrible (wasteful) for fixed appliances. Every additional Wi-Fi network object comes with so much overhead. With a couple dozen IOT devices, a cheap router is quickly overwhelmed. Not everyone wants to have a $500+ router to make sure IOT devices don't interrupt their Netflix steam. No one has ever complained about having to reset the Wi-Fi, right? (yes even on new routers).
Sounds like I just found a good candidate for running airlines in the garage! PVC is awful, copper expensive, and iron rusts but something like this might be damn nice to use.
Seeing that heat recovery system for the drain pipe reminds me of a shower water recycling system that was part of an experimental Tiny House on display in Berlin years ago. This is probably more practical, but the idea of taking an endless hot shower without wasting either energy or water would be easy to sell in places like California. If we had "Unit" baths like they do in Japan it would probably be a built in feature.
Nope, not practical. Only high end home builder would considered this little effect of recycling heat contraption. A buddy of mine did a heat transfer calculation of copper piping and temperature exposure, and the amount of heat recover from the drain showers are very, very small. Of course, it's also depending the location of the source of the recovery tank, if any. the further away, the less effective. Bottom line, the heat recover from the shower is insignificant and not worth the money and effort. The manufacturer is trying to squeeze water out of a rock, and you bought it. Too rich for my taste.
Hi Matt, great video! I have two questions: 1. In the upstairs bathroom it looks like there is a double exterior wall in the shower to possibly make room for a shower niche (minute 30:20). I’ve seen some of Corbett Lunsford’s videos where he recommends never putting a shower or tub/shower combo on an exterior wall and I’ve also seen a Steve Baczek video where he talks about one of his builders installing a “wall within the exterior wall” around a tub or shower in order to better isolate it from a cold exterior. Although it is quite warm throughout the year in Austin, why would you put the shower niche in an exterior wall and are there any special details you have to include in regards to possible moisture issues? 2. Also in one of Corbett Lunsford’s videos he talks about the little known fact that homeowners are supposed to run water through their PEX pipes (and discard it) for at least two weeks before they move into a new house in order to flush chemicals and pieces of microplastics out of the pipes. Are there any similar issues with these kinds of contaminants needing to be flushed out of Pert pipes?
It has always puzzled me: What's the rationale behind the two hard 90* hard elbows at 17:22? If the PERT is so pliable, and the copper can likely be "kicked up" a bit too (see how tightly the col has been wound!), why not just put a gentle bend?
Copy and Paste from Legend spec sheet off website: 200 PSI Rating at 73° F | 100 PSI Rating at 180° F. Where is this 200 PSI @ 200F rating mentioned? Also, salesman says "5 bend radius" while spec sheet says 6x Tubing O.D. ?
@@morninboy OK, so you are referencing the 3/4 nominal tube size instead of the generic spec. Thank you for the clarification. What about the press/temp spec?
It's a bit hard to believe that water falling through that vertical Thermo Drain copper pipe for 2.5 feet at 19.5 ft/sec (most of it not making contact with the copper wall itself) would be able to transfer any appreciable amount of heat to make this worthwhile.
Agreed. A better design would take heat off at a J-trap or a horizontal run. However at shower flow rates, the water runs down the sides of the pipe. Yes; insulating the space surrounding the heat exchanger will also help. If redesigning, transfer the heat from the shower drain to the shower cold supply. Add an automatic temp control for the shower and you’ve got the best possible design.
"It's not 2.5 it's a coil. Duh." - @@fox156 You're right. 32" is actually 2.6666...ft. 19:05 My mistake. I was way off. Thanks for being so cool about it though.
As a Kohler Customer in the past I was disappointed in not being able to get some color coordinated toilet seats from Kohler. I was told the Toilet colors were dated and the matching seats unavailable.
I came across this last month fixing a water softener install that included the lawn sprinkler. They used this pipe. I knew it wasn’t pex b, I was worried about what fittings I could use so I used push to connect. I wasn’t sure if I could use a pex b barb fitting.
If you are only going to insulate one water pipe, make sure it is the COLD line. This house is in a very humid climate and unless you are keeping it fully conditioned 24/7, condensation on the pipe (even plastic pipe) is the issue.
If you bought $700 worth of a high paying dividend stock (Getting 5% is easy), you would get $35 a year to pay put toward your utility expenses. If the Thermodrain cost $600 (which is around the cost I saw for it), and $100 to install, for a total of $700, and saved $25 a year, you would clearly be doing better to buy the stock. This device likely simply does save enough money to justify it's cost. If the motivation is to be green, putting that money towards a more efficient heat pump ($700 will buy a couple of SEER2 Units more) is a much better investment.
Spending money on energy savings quickly gets to the point of diminishing returns. I highly doubt that stupid drain heatsink would ever be worth the added cost.
Probably not in Austin, though. My cast iron tub/sower combo in Oregon is FREEZING cold in the winter. Takes several minutes to warm up during the winter and then several more minutes for my toes to regain circulation 😂.
Differences to consider -------- PEX is BPA-free and doesn't contain harmful chemicals that could leach into water. However, some studies are ongoing into potential health risks related to chemical leaching from PEX, especially when used in hot water systems.....
@@URKlewless LG refrigerator compressors are a very real and well known issue. Not sure about their other appliances. But appliances in general have gone to complete shit quality because people want totally useless wifi everything with touch screens rather than quality these days. Who cares if it breaks in 6 months?? It's got wifi!!!
I seriously thought he was joking and punking us when Matt showed the gawd awful color of that bathtub. Then I realized that is too heavy for just a joke. There is a reason we see people removing tubs that color…. Oh man 😂
Copper is the only material you should be using in your plumbing. It has anti-microbial properties and has been in use since Ancient Egypt. It is also recyclable. Pay the extra money, your family will thank you for it.
I’d agree if we lived in 1978, but most copper seems to be made overseas with thin spots and impurities. I’ve had several 2005 era copper pipes get pinhole leaks with nothing near. We have Tx hard water, have you found decent copper available recently ??
I don't think a hose bib belongs in a residential wall. Prone to failure, freezing, and they create a big hole in the wall as well as being inconvenient for use. I prefer a dedicated circuit of pedestals outside, placed where the water is needed. If needed the entire circuit can be drained and, or blown out for freezing. Same concept for exterior elec receptacles.
@@user-tv5dt3nm9y sounds like a lot of work and a whole lot more exposure not to mention expense. Underground and above ground pipes are no longer in an insulated envelope and cost more to install. Blowing out has to be done in a timely manner and requires work. Vs the stub out built for harsh weather with a valve that shuts off inside the heated envelope.
Here in Minnesota I have spoken to several homeowners who have had those "thermo drain" pipes installed in their "Passive Homes" & they failed due to small pin holes that have developed in them. Personally I think it's a gimmick that's not really going to deliver any noticeable returns.
That goes back to another viewer’s comment (a plumber I believe) about the difficulty in sourcing good quality copper pipe these days with pinholes popping up nowhere near a potential puncture source.
We have "strict" deconstruct-and-recycle regulations in my county and other than limited amounts of large-format lumber and copper pluming, everthing else ends up in the dumpster. Nobody has time to pick through every little thing and figure out which recycling stream it belongs in.
Recycling by in large in this country is a complete scam especially since the Chinese stopped taking our scraps! Sad but true…hopefully this won’t be the case in the future.
I remember the last miracle plumbing pipe. Blue Poly... polybutalyne... how'd that work out? And push to connect? Sounds kinda like a sharkbite class action lawsuit waiting to happen.
Yah I dont get why it matters that they can disconnect it up to 12 times. This is going into a house. The only time it should be disconnected is if you are changing out the pipe. In an industrial environment all of our piping is welded together for a reason unless we know we will need to change out the pipe in the future. I'd rather have the system with pex where they use a crimping tool to ensure you have a really strong connection.
Push to connect has been in industrial applications for decades for air/water with Festo/SMC. If properly designed and installed it's flawless. That being said in places that aren't accessible at all I would prefer if my plumber used crimp/press fittings.
I used copper. There is enough problems with plastics, so I definitely did not want it in my plumbing. Luckily I do not use the city water department but have a well and spring.
Everyone in my town that had copper had to replace it a few years back due to pinhole leaks caused by the city water. Guess you aren't really safe with any system.
@@thursdaythought7201 I am thankful that I don't have to use city water. I want to have a large family (lots of kids), so I want to have things as healthy as possible for them. That is the main reason I moved out of the city.
He’s doing separate videos on mechanical, electrical, and plumbing in this series, all under the MEP heading. Probably could have used a colon or other punctuation after MEP in the title for clarity.
I believe PERT pipe only needs to withstand 48 hours of the pressure rated pressure, but PEX-a actually needs to withstand the rating for 720 hours.....
I’m skeptical with any claims of energy efficiency products, in the late 80’s they were pushing energy efficient light bulbs that cost 5-6 times more than a regular bulb. If you did the ROI cal it turned out it took 15yrs to get your return. Just didn’t make financial savings sense. IMO most of money saving energy efficient products, including EVs, don’t have an ROI. Having said that, energy efficiency may have a big environmental impact and I’m for that, just not for the saving money claim. If we all use energy efficient products it’ll benefit our children’s future no doubt, just not our pocket books!
Still worthwhile because of all the discussion in the Comments. There never seems to be consensus on anything, but sure gives us all a lot to think about. I just wish it was a little more civil, although the snark seems to be part of the fun for some people so I don’t take it too seriously.
WHAAAAT???? At @6:30 he says, "It's actually opaque, so you can see through it." Opaque literally means you CAN'T see through it. "Transparent" means you can see clearly through it. "Translucent" means you can see through it, but it's not entirely clear.
It’s actually a surprisingly common mistake. I’ve talked to a number of people who think opaque means transparent. I believe the correct word in this case would be translucent.
In past episodes, Matt obeyed the language police and used the term "primary" when denoting a bedroom or bathroom; I'm gladdened to see he is back to using the term "master." Thank you!
Thermo Drain a big scam.... pretty silly... since your drain water is like maybe 80 degrees.... the T increase is actually a problem for a heat pump water heater... for a heat pump water heater the colder the incoming water, the more efficient is the heating during the heat pump cycle...... just saying...
NO. That is a fundamental misunderstanding of what efficiency represents: Degrees of heat rise per unit of energy consumed. In other words, let's say heating water from 70 to 100 gives you an average efficiency of 1 degree per unit of energy such that you use 30 units. Heating water from 80 to 100 might only have an efficiency of .8 degrees per unit of energy, but that still only uses 25 total units of energy, a savings of 5/30 = 17%. Another way to prove this is a logical thought experiment: When you heat water from 70 to 100, you are, at some point, reaching 80 degrees on your way to 100 such that you've used a non zero amount of energy to achieve that first 10 degree rise, proving the energy consumed from 80 to 100 is LESS than the total energy from 70 to 100. Whether or not the savings are worth the upfront cost of a system like this is a different question, but your claim that it's making the process less efficient is just a misunderstanding.
DUDE!!! I am legit excited. Every time there’s a plumbing episode I’m like, “Please cover PE-RT!!!” I don’t think it’s because of me, but I’ve been requesting it since before he killed Risinger Goes Rogue.
I've never read all the comments before... These are great thanks guys
Great episode!
Hey Matt, you do know the Oatey Access Panels can be flipped for new construction and installed prior to drywall right? Just flip the cover. Saves the extra steps you added and is a much cleaner look when finished and painted. (fan and fellow GC in Iowa)
The first thing I think about when installing plumbing is how will I get rid of it.
I used pert on a heating system 4 years ago. Working fine
Those Kohler cast iron tubs have both the lowest curb height and the deepest spill over level. Best tub there is from my experience. I also insulate mine
Experimenting with push to connect on a new construction is wild
I would put my heat pump water heater in the same closet as my network rack.
I wish appliance makers would put Ethernet ports on their products. WiFi for fixed devices is dumb.
Wifi is way too good these days to mess around with Ethernet. People who ran ethernet throughout their house are mad it's already obsolete lol.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Ethernet will be obsolete when faster than 100Gb/s connections become commonplace and even then the upgrade is fiber, not wireless. Even people who ran CAT5e are good for 2.5Gb/s for the full 100m maximum length run (and up to 10Gb/s for runs under 45m).
WiFi isn't a magical solution that lets you connect everything, too many devices in the same area will always cause performance degradation. You can't stuff more data into the same airwaves but you can always run another cable.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 I would run ethernet but that would be for computers and to wifi access points.
Agreed. Wi-Fi is terrible (wasteful) for fixed appliances. Every additional Wi-Fi network object comes with so much overhead. With a couple dozen IOT devices, a cheap router is quickly overwhelmed. Not everyone wants to have a $500+ router to make sure IOT devices don't interrupt their Netflix steam.
No one has ever complained about having to reset the Wi-Fi, right? (yes even on new routers).
We are doing a house for an electronics developer and the amount of cat6Z we ran was crazy, he said the exact same thing WiFi was to easy to overload
Why do you use zip system with external insulation vs using Zip-R. What are the situations I should choose one vs the other?
Sounds like I just found a good candidate for running airlines in the garage! PVC is awful, copper expensive, and iron rusts but something like this might be damn nice to use.
Wait, is this a new house for the Risinger clan? What's wrong with last year's house?
Matt you bulked up!!!
Seeing that heat recovery system for the drain pipe reminds me of a shower water recycling system that was part of an experimental Tiny House on display in Berlin years ago. This is probably more practical, but the idea of taking an endless hot shower without wasting either energy or water would be easy to sell in places like California. If we had "Unit" baths like they do in Japan it would probably be a built in feature.
Nope, not practical. Only high end home builder would considered this little effect of recycling heat contraption. A buddy of mine did a heat transfer calculation of copper piping and temperature exposure, and the amount of heat recover from the drain showers are very, very small. Of course, it's also depending the location of the source of the recovery tank, if any. the further away, the less effective. Bottom line, the heat recover from the shower is insignificant and not worth the money and effort. The manufacturer is trying to squeeze water out of a rock, and you bought it. Too rich for my taste.
I'm so old I remember when Matt Reviewed products that weren't a̶d̶s̶ the show sponsor.
What do you think of the Essency water heaters?
Hi Matt, great video! I have two questions:
1. In the upstairs bathroom it looks like there is a double exterior wall in the shower to possibly make room for a shower niche (minute 30:20). I’ve seen some of Corbett Lunsford’s videos where he recommends never putting a shower or tub/shower combo on an exterior wall and I’ve also seen a Steve Baczek video where he talks about one of his builders installing a “wall within the exterior wall” around a tub or shower in order to better isolate it from a cold exterior. Although it is quite warm throughout the year in Austin, why would you put the shower niche in an exterior wall and are there any special details you have to include in regards to possible moisture issues?
2. Also in one of Corbett Lunsford’s videos he talks about the little known fact that homeowners are supposed to run water through their PEX pipes (and discard it) for at least two weeks before they move into a new house in order to flush chemicals and pieces of microplastics out of the pipes. Are there any similar issues with these kinds of contaminants needing to be flushed out of Pert pipes?
Legend says no flushing is needed, it's basically HDPE pipe, recyclable and with negligible leach capability.
It has always puzzled me: What's the rationale behind the two hard 90* hard elbows at 17:22? If the PERT is so pliable, and the copper can likely be "kicked up" a bit too (see how tightly the col has been wound!), why not just put a gentle bend?
Matt Risinger agrees! :) 29:38
9:16 what are the requirements for a portable system? Are they similar to potable requirements?
What is the leach amount over time ?
Copy and Paste from Legend spec sheet off website: 200 PSI Rating at 73° F | 100 PSI Rating at 180° F. Where is this 200 PSI @ 200F rating mentioned? Also, salesman says "5 bend radius" while spec sheet says 6x Tubing O.D. ?
3/4 ID = 7/8 OD X 6 = 42/8 = 5. 25''
@@morninboy OK, so you are referencing the 3/4 nominal tube size instead of the generic spec. Thank you for the clarification. What about the press/temp spec?
It's a bit hard to believe that water falling through that vertical Thermo Drain copper pipe for 2.5 feet at 19.5 ft/sec (most of it not making contact with the copper wall itself) would be able to transfer any appreciable amount of heat to make this worthwhile.
Yup, very hard to believe!
Not helped by the fact that if the manufacturer actually believed it worked they would have insulated it. Y'know, to keep the heat in.
Agreed. A better design would take heat off at a J-trap or a horizontal run. However at shower flow rates, the water runs down the sides of the pipe. Yes; insulating the space surrounding the heat exchanger will also help.
If redesigning, transfer the heat from the shower drain to the shower cold supply. Add an automatic temp control for the shower and you’ve got the best possible design.
It's not 2.5 it's a coil. Duh.
"It's not 2.5 it's a coil. Duh." - @@fox156 You're right. 32" is actually 2.6666...ft. 19:05 My mistake. I was way off. Thanks for being so cool about it though.
Will Sharkbite connectors work with this new type of polyethylene?
it will. anyhting that is cts.
The piping -- why is the red (hot) clamped with insulation. The blue (cold) is not ?
There is no chance in honey the drain heat exchanger gains 1 degree when water is running past
As a Kohler Customer in the past I was disappointed in not being able to get some color coordinated
toilet seats from Kohler. I was told the Toilet colors were dated and the matching seats unavailable.
I came across this last month fixing a water softener install that included the lawn sprinkler. They used this pipe. I knew it wasn’t pex b, I was worried about what fittings I could use so I used push to connect. I wasn’t sure if I could use a pex b barb fitting.
They were using softened water for their sprinklers? So they are slowly salting their grass to death...
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 it also solved why some heads weren’t coming up, not enough pressure.
@@jonathanzappala So you bypassed the softener for the sprinklers?
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 yep
Great info and ... Eric could so do an imitation of John C Reilly with no effort.
If you are only going to insulate one water pipe, make sure it is the COLD line. This house is in a very humid climate and unless you are keeping it fully conditioned 24/7, condensation on the pipe (even plastic pipe) is the issue.
If you bought $700 worth of a high paying dividend stock (Getting 5% is easy), you would get $35 a year to pay put toward your utility expenses. If the Thermodrain cost $600 (which is around the cost I saw for it), and $100 to install, for a total of $700, and saved $25 a year, you would clearly be doing better to buy the stock. This device likely simply does save enough money to justify it's cost. If the motivation is to be green, putting that money towards a more efficient heat pump ($700 will buy a couple of SEER2 Units more) is a much better investment.
Spending money on energy savings quickly gets to the point of diminishing returns. I highly doubt that stupid drain heatsink would ever be worth the added cost.
Excellent job Matt. Looks like a cast iron tub is on the list for my home design.
they can be super cold in the winter
Probably not in Austin, though. My cast iron tub/sower combo in Oregon is FREEZING cold in the winter. Takes several minutes to warm up during the winter and then several more minutes for my toes to regain circulation 😂.
What happened to Nuvo? Also I would never trust an LG compressor.
I'm all in as long as you can promise me the same benefits of what other plastics leach into my water.
Differences to consider -------- PEX is BPA-free and doesn't contain harmful chemicals that could leach into water. However, some studies are ongoing into potential health risks related to chemical leaching from PEX, especially when used in hot water systems.....
It may not have BPA’s but what about BPB’s and BPS? I don’t want ANY bisphenols in my water.
Advantech is plywood?
It's OSB, essentially.
About the bend supports-I have had 6 leaks on the hot water outside of the radius of the support. Bo Superpex.
Infomercial.
LG sure does build some beautiful looking Junk appliances
Like every product made people have their own experiences. My entire kitchen and laundry is LG and I’ve never had one problem.
@@URKlewlesshow many minutes have you owned them?
Xenophobic comment. Typical
Had a LG linear compressor fridge. Not sure there’s anything anyone can say that would convince me to buy another LG appliance ever again.
@@URKlewless LG refrigerator compressors are a very real and well known issue. Not sure about their other appliances. But appliances in general have gone to complete shit quality because people want totally useless wifi everything with touch screens rather than quality these days. Who cares if it breaks in 6 months?? It's got wifi!!!
1st!
You mentioned the hot water loop but then didn't show it
I seriously thought he was joking and punking us when Matt showed the gawd awful color of that bathtub. Then I realized that is too heavy for just a joke. There is a reason we see people removing tubs that color…. Oh man 😂
Copper is the only material you should be using in your plumbing. It has anti-microbial properties and has been in use since Ancient Egypt. It is also recyclable. Pay the extra money, your family will thank you for it.
I’d agree if we lived in 1978, but most copper seems to be made overseas with thin spots and impurities. I’ve had several 2005 era copper pipes get pinhole leaks with nothing near. We have Tx hard water, have you found decent copper available recently ??
I don't think a hose bib belongs in a residential wall. Prone to failure, freezing, and they create a big hole in the wall as well as being inconvenient for use. I prefer a dedicated circuit of pedestals outside, placed where the water is needed. If needed the entire circuit can be drained and, or blown out for freezing. Same concept for exterior elec receptacles.
@@user-tv5dt3nm9y sounds like a lot of work and a whole lot more exposure not to mention expense. Underground and above ground pipes are no longer in an insulated envelope and cost more to install. Blowing out has to be done in a timely manner and requires work. Vs the stub out built for harsh weather with a valve that shuts off inside the heated envelope.
Is that tub green? If so it is ugly!
Pick out the right tiles and grout and you could have something exceptional. Colour rules. Thank God the grey phase is over
@@morninboy So you are saying bring back the 70's and 60's colour pallet. No thanks and keep your shag carpet with it.
@@garygeorge9648 Nothing like putting words in someones mouth. I don't care who you shag on your carpet
Avocado to be more specific!
@@garygeorge9648 Look at the shade of green. It is not a 70's colour.
I'm more a persian carpet type of person and own three. Bet you don't have one.
Here in Minnesota I have spoken to several homeowners who have had those "thermo drain" pipes installed in their "Passive Homes" & they failed due to small pin holes that have developed in them. Personally I think it's a gimmick that's not really going to deliver any noticeable returns.
That goes back to another viewer’s comment (a plumber I believe) about the difficulty in sourcing good quality copper pipe these days with pinholes popping up nowhere near a potential puncture source.
I’m selfish and I don’t care about recycling. Any other reason I should buy this over pex? Which product will burst first in a freeze??? This or pex?
"Easier to recycle" Easier to biodegrade. What's it's life span while in use? Compared to PEX.
We have "strict" deconstruct-and-recycle regulations in my county and other than limited amounts of large-format lumber and copper pluming, everthing else ends up in the dumpster. Nobody has time to pick through every little thing and figure out which recycling stream it belongs in.
Recycling by in large in this country is a complete scam especially since the Chinese stopped taking our scraps! Sad but true…hopefully this won’t be the case in the future.
Lack of harsh chemicals in the manufacturing process.
Use copper, it will outlast pex by many decades. The initial investment will be more but it’s worth it.
Pfannerstill Ridge
😃👍🏼👊🏼
That heat transfer piping would be great in multi family units.
I remember the last miracle plumbing pipe. Blue Poly... polybutalyne... how'd that work out? And push to connect? Sounds kinda like a sharkbite class action lawsuit waiting to happen.
Yah I dont get why it matters that they can disconnect it up to 12 times. This is going into a house. The only time it should be disconnected is if you are changing out the pipe. In an industrial environment all of our piping is welded together for a reason unless we know we will need to change out the pipe in the future. I'd rather have the system with pex where they use a crimping tool to ensure you have a really strong connection.
That's why you wait 10 years to see if you get a Blue Poly or colored PEX recall before you use it. Let other people experiment.
Push to connect has been in industrial applications for decades for air/water with Festo/SMC. If properly designed and installed it's flawless. That being said in places that aren't accessible at all I would prefer if my plumber used crimp/press fittings.
I used copper. There is enough problems with plastics, so I definitely did not want it in my plumbing. Luckily I do not use the city water department but have a well and spring.
Everyone in my town that had copper had to replace it a few years back due to pinhole leaks caused by the city water. Guess you aren't really safe with any system.
@@thursdaythought7201 I am thankful that I don't have to use city water. I want to have a large family (lots of kids), so I want to have things as healthy as possible for them. That is the main reason I moved out of the city.
What is "MEP Plumbing"? I know MEP is Mechanical, Electrical and Plumbing.
He’s doing separate videos on mechanical, electrical, and plumbing in this series, all under the MEP heading. Probably could have used a colon or other punctuation after MEP in the title for clarity.
Matt explains in another video why it is going in a closet.
I believe PERT pipe only needs to withstand 48 hours of the pressure rated pressure, but PEX-a actually needs to withstand the rating for 720 hours.....
Yeah, Uponor has a comparison chart that doesn't paint the same picture as the one painted here by the Legend Salesman....
Dolly Manor
I’m skeptical with any claims of energy efficiency products, in the late 80’s they were pushing energy efficient light bulbs that cost 5-6 times more than a regular bulb. If you did the ROI cal it turned out it took 15yrs to get your return. Just didn’t make financial savings sense. IMO most of money saving energy efficient products, including EVs, don’t have an ROI. Having said that, energy efficiency may have a big environmental impact and I’m for that, just not for the saving money claim. If we all use energy efficient products it’ll benefit our children’s future no doubt, just not our pocket books!
Push connect fittings inside my wall on a NEW system!?? 😳🤔
It would keep me up at night.....no thanks
Shark bite, no thanks . Portable?
Between intros and longer and more commercials,getting pretty sick of it.
It is ALL commercials....
Still worthwhile because of all the discussion in the Comments. There never seems to be consensus on anything, but sure gives us all a lot to think about. I just wish it was a little more civil, although the snark seems to be part of the fun for some people so I don’t take it too seriously.
sheesh those cripples were cut about 1/2" too short above that bathroom mirror header
It's hard to take seriously men who describe things (like a water heater) as "sexy".
C’mon! That’s a sexy water heater if ever there was one!! 😍🤩
WHAAAAT???? At @6:30 he says, "It's actually opaque, so you can see through it." Opaque literally means you CAN'T see through it. "Transparent" means you can see clearly through it. "Translucent" means you can see through it, but it's not entirely clear.
Salesmen....
Unbelievable
It’s actually a surprisingly common mistake. I’ve talked to a number of people who think opaque means transparent. I believe the correct word in this case would be translucent.
In past episodes, Matt obeyed the language police and used the term "primary" when denoting a bedroom or bathroom; I'm gladdened to see he is back to using the term "master." Thank you!
Haha you snowflakes are so easily offended...
Said the white guy… 😂
3/4 x 1 tee?? You mean a 1x3/4 tee. This is your “plumbing expert” paid advertisement for junk
Thermo Drain a big scam.... pretty silly... since your drain water is like maybe 80 degrees.... the T increase is actually a problem for a heat pump water heater... for a heat pump water heater the colder the incoming water, the more efficient is the heating during the heat pump cycle...... just saying...
NO. That is a fundamental misunderstanding of what efficiency represents: Degrees of heat rise per unit of energy consumed. In other words, let's say heating water from 70 to 100 gives you an average efficiency of 1 degree per unit of energy such that you use 30 units. Heating water from 80 to 100 might only have an efficiency of .8 degrees per unit of energy, but that still only uses 25 total units of energy, a savings of 5/30 = 17%.
Another way to prove this is a logical thought experiment: When you heat water from 70 to 100, you are, at some point, reaching 80 degrees on your way to 100 such that you've used a non zero amount of energy to achieve that first 10 degree rise, proving the energy consumed from 80 to 100 is LESS than the total energy from 70 to 100.
Whether or not the savings are worth the upfront cost of a system like this is a different question, but your claim that it's making the process less efficient is just a misunderstanding.
The tub is ugly, but it's not my house. Also, that tiny stall shower--why? But, again, not my house.
Nice video, but the plumbing job could look way better. This definitely isn’t the best work plumbers can deliver!
terrible olive bath color on 29:02 time
I'd say more pastel green. Beautiful. Find some nice tiles
Massive waste of copper.
I want copper for my water, no plastics.
I know plumbers want to make a killing and want to show this crap but not for us.🎉🎉 pass on this.
What’s the advantage of copper over pex if all the water mains are plastic?
@@keithdygert1120
Antibacterial,
Anti inflammatory
Increase of PH levels.
For starters
@@keithdygert1120 Ooh, good question. Two weeks later and still no replies. I guess everyone has moved on.
You can’t be serious about push to connect, Any plumber that uses that anywhere, I automatically laugh in their face, instant pass
Bet you’re popular on the job site 😂😂😂
How does the tubing hold up to freezing?